So Fix it

Park the vehicle on a level surface then raise it with a jack and set it on jack stands. Remove the wheels with a lug wrench and set them aside. Remove the brake drums by hitting them with a hammer and pulling them free from the wheel studs.

Use a wrench to disconnect the drive shaft by separating it at the universal joint. Separate the springs from the rear axle housing with the wrench. Remove the differential cover by unscrewing the bolts with the wrench then drain the gear oil from the housing into a catch pan. Always recycle waste fluids according to local environmental regulations. Scrape the old gasket off the differential housing with a paint scraper while the oil drains.

Unscrew the Dana 35 center pins locking pin with the wrench to release the center pin. This locking pin is located on the outside of the housing on the back of the rear axle. Remove the center pin from the gear carrier inside the axle housing. Go to one end of the axle and push in on the end. Return to the differential and pull the clip off the end of the axle you just pushed in. Repeat for the other end then pull both out of the axle housing and set them aside.

Loosen the carrier bolts of the gear. Remove these bolts and pull the gear carrier out. Some gears will have shims wedged around the carrier to prevent the gear from moving from side to side. If the carrier does not come out easily, you can gently pry it out with a screwdriver. For hard to remove carriers, use a pry bar but make sure you do not damage the housing.

Remove the oil ring gear and replace it with a new one. Torque the retaining bolts to 70 foot-pounds. Reinsert the carrier into the housing. Lubricate the bearing caps with gear oil. Reinstall both axle ends, replace the center pin and tighten the locking bolt on the outside of the axle housing.

Install a new differential gasket and secure the differential cover back into place. Fill the differential with gear oil through the fill cap located on the outside of the Dana 35 gear housing. Raise the vehicle with the floor jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the vehicle onto the ground.

Drain the oil from the jack by opening the oil reservoir cap and draining out as much as you can. Bear in mind that there may still be oil in other parts of the jack.

Remove the handle assembly by unbolting it. There are usually two or three bolts involved and the process will vary depending on the type of jack you are working with. You will be able to skip this step with some floor jacks. Remove the pump piston by pulling it out. It should come out with some pulling. The best option is to put the jack in a vice.

Remove the release valve by unscrewing the cap. There is a ball or pin underneath. Use the pencil magnet to lift this out.

Remove the overload valve. This is usually located close to the release valve. Unscrew the cap and remove it. Inside are usually two balls and two springs. Remove these with the pencil magnet and record the order in which they came out.

Remove the tank nut with the pipe wrench. The tank nut is the nut at the top of the bottle. Once this has been removed the piston will be loose and the parts should slide apart. Make a note of what slides out of what so that they can be put back together in the same order.

Examine all the o-rings and washers for pinches, breaks and caps. Replace those that need replacing. When you lever the seals from the metal parts make sure you lever away from the sealing surface, otherwise you may damage the sealing surface and compromise the seal. It may help with the initial seal if you soak all the soft o-rings and washers in hydraulic oil before putting them in place.

Slide the parts of the piston back together, using your notes for erence. Slide the piston back into the bottle and secure it with the tank nut.

Replace the overload valve. Replace the balls and springs using your notes to give you the order, although the normal order is the small, then the smaller, spring, and then the large ball and the large spring. Reference your notes for the position of the guides, plates and anything else.

Replace the release valve. Drop the ball or pin into place and replace the cap.

Replace the pump piston by pushing it back into its place. Replace any parts of the handle assembly you removed to get to the pump piston.

Put the oil back into the reservoir and top the oil up to about 1/4-inch below the hole when holding the jack horizontally. Bleed air from the system by closing the oil reservoir, pumping the handle vigorously with the release valve open and then raising and lowering the jack normally. If the jack does not reach its full height, repeat the bleed process until it does.

Test the jack by lifting a load. Wipe the jack with the cloth before starting the lift and check the outside after the lift for evidence of any leaks.

Disconnect the battery ground cable from the battery terminal. Remove the wire leads from the generator, making note of which terminal they were attached. Squeeze the generator belt with your hand and loosen the pulley nut with an open end wrench. Squeezing the belt prevents the pulley from turning. Remove the pulley from the generator. Remove the generator hold down bolts and lift the generator off the car.

Remove the commutator end frame by first removing the through bolts. The through bolts are either fastened with a hex-head bolt or by a slotted screw. Tap the end frame with a rubber mallet to loosen it from the field frame. Remove the drive end frame and armature assembly from the field frame. The armature assembly is the part with all the copper windings around a central shaft and will slide out from the field frame.

Clean the commutator end frames, commutator, and field frame with a clean cloth. Do not use solvent of any kind on the generator parts. Inspect the end bearings for excessive wear or corrosion. Replace the end bearings if they appear pitted or worn.

Examine the commutator for high bars, high mica, pitted bars or excessive wear. Turn the commutator on a lathe if any of these conditions are present. Clean the commutator with a fine grade of sandpaper if it appears to be in good condition. Wipe off any sandpaper residue or dirt with a clean cloth.

Remove the brushes from the field frame and discard. Clean any corrosion off of the brush frames and install new brushes. Ensure the preformed angle of the brush matches the commutator contour. Ensure the brush frame springs are in good condition and maintain tension on the brush. Replace any springs that are worn or broken.

Test the armature for ground faults. Place one lead of the growler probe on the armature core and the other lead on the commutator bar. If the growler lamp lights up, the commutator is grounded and must be replaced.

Place the armature in the V-notch of the growler. Turn the growler on and touch the armature with a metal hack-saw blade. The hack-saw blade will become magnetically attracted to the armature and will vibrate if the armature is good. Rotate the armature and check each winding in the same way.

Test the field coil for open circuits. Place on lead of the growler probe on the field terminal and the other lead on the field coil lead to the armature terminal. If the lamp does not light then the field coils have an open circuit and must be replaced.

Test the armature terminal for ground faults. Place one probe of the growler to an armature terminal and place the other probe on the generator frame. If the lamp lights then the terminal insulation through the generator frame has broken down and must be replaced.

Test the brush holders for ground faults. Place one probe of the growler on the insulated brush holder and the other probe to the generator frame. If the growler lamp lights then the brush holder is grounded and the insulation must be replaced.

Solder any loose wires and replace any bad ground insulation as required.

Install the armature into the field frame. Install the end frame, being careful not to damage the brushes on the commutator. Install the drive end frame and install the through bolts. Install the drive pulley and fasten the pulley nut hand tight.

Install the generator onto the engine and install the hold down bolts hand tight. Place the generator belt over the engine pulley and generator pulley. Tighten the generator belt using a pry-bar wedged against the generator frame and engine. Tighten the hold down bolts while holding tension on the generator with the pry-bar. Squeeze the generator belt with your hand and tighten the pulley nut with an open end wrench.

Attach the wire leads to their original mounting studs on the generator. Connect the battery ground lead to the battery. Polarize the generator by momentarily contacting the "BAT" terminal of the voltage regulator to the "GEN" or "ARM" terminal using a jumper wire. Apply 8 to 10 drops of light oil to the bearing oil cups located on each end of the generator.