So Fix it

General Motors, or GM, began developing the LS family of engines in 1997. GM used these eight-cylinder engines in a variety of cars and trucks with rear-wheel-drive until 2005. A typical application for the LS1 engine was the Chevrolet Camaro from 1998 to 2002. The LS1 engine uses a harmonic balancer, also known as a crankshaft balancer, on the end of the crankshaft to keep the crankshaft stable at high speed. The procedure for installing a harmonic balancer in an LS1 engine requires the removal of additional components to access the crankshaft.

Instructions

1

Remove the batterys negative cable with a socket wrench, to avoid starting the engine inadvertently. Detach the drive belt for the air conditioner.

2

Raise the vehicle with a floor jack, and safely support it on jack stands. Disconnect the starter motor with a socket wrench to access the crankshaft. Remove the right cover for the transmission, and detach the lines for the transmission oil cooler from the radiator. Disconnect the cooler for the power steering fluid, if your vehicle is so equipped.

3

Attach Tool J 42386-A to the flywheel to hold the flywheel in place, and remove the mounting bolt for the crankshaft balancer with a socket wrench. Connect a removal tool to the crankshaft balancer, and pull the balancer from the crankshaft.

4

Mount the crankshaft balancer to the crankshaft with an installer tool. Fasten the old mounting bolt to the balancer, and tighten it to 240 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Remove the old mounting bolt for the crankshaft balancer with a socket wrench.

5

Measure the depth of the crankshaft nose within the balancer bore with a depth micrometer. This measurement should be between 0.094 inches and 0.176 inches. Repeat steps three and four until the installation depth of the crankshaft balancer is within this range.

6

Fasten the new mounting bolt to the crankshaft balancer, and tighten it to 37 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Turn the mounting bolt an additional 140 degrees clockwise with a socket wrench.

7

Attach the lines for the transmission oil cooler to the radiator, and torque the retaining nuts to 20 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Connect the cooler for the power steering fluid, if your vehicle is so equipped. Replace the right cover for the transmission, and tighten it mounting bolt to 106 inch-pounds. Connect the starter motor.

8

Lower the vehicle, and attach the drive belt for the air conditioner. Connect the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

An engines exhaust manifold routes exhaust gases from the engine to the vehicles exhaust system. Without the exhaust manifold, hazardous exhaust fumes can reach the interior of the vehicle. Installation of the exhaust manifold is usually the final step of the engine installation process, but installation is also necessary when an exhaust manifold gasket is replaced. Thankfully, installing an exhaust manifold is a straightforward process.

Instructions

1

Ensure that the exhaust manifolds mating surface is free from old gasket deposits to begin the installation process. Old exhaust manifold gaskets rarely leave gasket deposits, but if any deposits are present they should be scraped away with a gasket scrapper.

2

Place a new exhaust manifold gasket over the manifolds mating surface. Do not apply gasket sealer to this gasket.

3

Position the exhaust manifold with its gasket against the portion of the head where the manifold attaches, then place one exhaust manifold bolt through one end of the manifold and into the head. Turn this bolt only until it begins to grasp the threads within the head.

4

Insert another manifold bolt into the opposite side of the exhaust manifold and turn this bolt only until it begins to grasp the threads within the head.

5

Insert the remaining exhaust manifold bolts through the manifold and into the head.

6

Tighten each exhaust manifold bolt to the required torque specifications with a torque wrench to complete the installation. Refer to the vehicles specifications manual for this torque setting.

Exhaust flex pipes are a flexible metal pipe sections that are used either in areas where an exhaust pipe needs to be flexible, or to repair a damaged exhaust system. While they are all-metal, it is common for one to fail and require replacement.

Construction

Automotive exhaust pipes get extremely hot from the exhaust gas passing through the system and out the tailpipe. Due to this, when an exhaust system needs to bend, shift or be flexible, the manufacturer cannot use traditional materials like rubber. The flex pipe is made of metal strips woven into a lattice, and thus can withstand exhaust gas heat. Higher quality flex pipes will be made of stainless steel.

Use

Automotive engines move slightly during operation, whereas most exhaust systems are fixed from the mid-section back. Flex pipes allow the engine to move and not crack or rupture what would otherwise be an inflexible metal exhaust pipe. Flex pipes are typically found where the exhaust manifold meets the downpipe or mid-section of an exhaust, which is closer to the engine than to the exit tailpipe.

Availability

Exhaust flex pipe sections are widely available at automotive stores in a variety of lengths and diameters.

The third vehicle Ford Motor Company produced was a truck. By 1917 Ford was consistently producing the Model T one-ton truck for the American automotive consumer. Ford began manufacturing the F-Series truck in 1948, offering consumers multiple engine and chassis configurations. Today, innovations such as fuel injection, power windows and air conditioning have kept the F-Series Fords top selling truck platform. Replacing the A/C compressor can be performed with common tools and moderate automotive repair knowledge.

Instructions

A/C Compressor Removal

1

Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal on the vehicles battery.

2

Locate the A/C compressor on the front-right side of the engine block.

3

Locate the two rigerant lines connected to the back side of the compressor, and remove them using an open end wrench. Install a cap on each of the lines immediately to prevent rigerant from escaping. Refrigerant line caps are available from most automotive parts supply stores. Discard the two rubber "O" rings.

4

Release the tension from the accessory drive belt using a pry-bar and pull the belt of off the compressor pulley.

5

Remove the six bolts attaching the compressor to the compressor bracket using a socket wrench and a socket, and remove the compressor.

A/C Compressor Installation

6

Add rigerant oil into the service ports on the new A/C compressor.

7

Install the compressor to the compressor mounting bracket by threading the six compressor retaining bolts by hand. Tighten the bolts using a torque wrench and socket to the manufacturers recommended torque level.

8

Apply rigerant oil on the two new rubber "O" rings supplied with the new A/C compressor. Install the two new "O" rings on both rigerant lines.

9

Attach the two rigerant lines to the compressor, one at a time, by removing the caps on the lines and threading the rigerant line fitting into the compressor by hand. Tighten each line until the fitting is fully seated in the compressor using an open-end wrench.

10

Install the accessory drive belt onto the compressor drive pulley.

11

Connect the negative cable to the vehicles battery.

12

Start the engine and turn the air conditioning system to "maximum cool" and the blower to "high". Make sure the air conditioning system is cooling, and add rigerant if needed.

If the air-conditioning compressor on a late model car does not engage, the system is probably low on rigerant and the low-pressure switch prevents the compressor from turning on. This problem goes away by simply adding rigerant. Opening a can of R134a into the system usually overrides the low-pressure switch and allows the air-conditioning compressor to engage normally. On older cars, the air-conditioning compressor has to be engaged manually to recharge the system. The procedure is simple and usually takes less than a minute.

Instructions

1

Check the compressor oil level. Add more oil if necessary. Since different manufacturers have different procedures for checking compressor oil levels and filling compressors with oil, er to the auto manufacturers shop manual for specific instructions.

2

Locate the single wire connector near the front of the compressor and unplug it.

3

Hook one end of the fused jumper wire to the compressor side of the wire connector.

4

Hook the other end of the jumper wire to the positive terminal of the battery. By supplying voltage to the compressor, the compressor will engage manually without even turning on the air-conditioning switch inside the car.

The belt that operates the engine accessories on the Chevrolet Aveo is a single accessory belt. The accessory belt routes around all of the accessory pulleys at once. As the engine runs, the crankshaft turns the belt around all of the pulleys. This process makes it possible for the single belt to operate each of the accessories at the same time. If the belt begins to fray or crack, replace it with a new belt before the belt breaks. If the belt breaks, all of the engine accessories will stop working.

Instructions

1

Park the Chevrolet Aveo, and open the hood. Turn the steering wheel to the far right, and turn the engine off. This will give you enough room to access the belt tensioner pulley from the front passenger side wheel well. Set the parking brake.

2

Locate the belt routing diagram on the top of the fan shroud. You will use the routing instructions from this diagram to route the new belt around all of the engine accessories. Lower the hood.

3

Jack the front end of the Chevrolet Aveo up, and slide the jack stands under the proper front jacking points. Lower the car onto the top of the stands.

4

Move to the front passenger side wheel well. Remove the plastic guard from the back of the wheel well by removing the 10-mm bolts and nuts with a ratchet and a 10-mm socket. Pull the guard out of the wheel well, and place it on the ground.

5

Locate the belt tensioner near the bottom center of the engine. The tensioner has a pulley attached to the bottom of the tensioner arm. Use a breaker bar and a 14-mm socket to turn the tensioner.

6

Rotate the tensioner clockwise from the bolt head in the middle of the tensioner pulley with a breaker bar and a 14-mm socket. Once the tension is off of the belt, slide the belt off of the tensioner pulley and the other accessory pulleys. Pull the belt out through the wheel well.

7

Route the new belt through the wheel well and around each of the engine accessories as directed by the belt routing diagram.

8

Rotate the tensioner clockwise with the breaker bar and 14-mm socket again. Slide the new belt around the tensioner pulley, and release the breaker bar. Pull the breaker bar and socket off of the tensioner and out through the wheel well. Inspect the belt to ensure it is inside of each pulley.

9

Crank the engine, and inspect the new belt to make sure that it stays seated inside of each pulley. Turn the engine off. Reinstall the guard to the back of the wheel well, and tighten the bolt and nuts with the ratchet and 10-mm socket.

10

Jack the Chevrolet Aveo back up and remove the jack stands. Lower the car to the ground and remove the jack.

There are a variety of components in the emission control system of modern automobiles, one of which is the Oxygen (O2) sensor. It measures the amount of oxygen present in the engine exhaust. The O2 sensor is linked to the Lexus SC400s computer, which then makes adjustments to the fuel/air mixture as the engine is running. This helps the engine run at peak efficiency, reducing exhaust pollution. The O2 sensor requires periodic replacement. Many owners can do the job themselves.

Instructions

1

Park your Lexus SC400. Set the parking brake, and open the engine hood. Let the engine cool completely before proceeding.

2

Locate the O2 sensor. Its in the lower engine area on the passenger side, threaded into the exhaust manifold.

3

Remove the wire from the sensor. Spray some anti-seize spray at the bottom of the sensor where it goes into the manifold. Let the fluid penetrate for a few minutes before proceeding.

4

Remove the sensor with the appropriate size socket and ratchet. Rotate the sensor counter-clockwise to loosen.

5

Install the new sensor into the hole and tighten firmly. Attach the wire and the job is finished.

Fumes created by your automobile during fuel burning are expelled from the engine by the exhaust system. The exhaust pipe, or tailpipe, is where fumes exit the car. Many car improvement jobs involve replacing rusted or broken pipes. It is important to know the exact diameter of the pipe that fits the rest of the exhaust system when replacing it. This process is complicated by the location of the exhaust pipe, and often by its angle of cut on the pipes end.

Instructions

1

Raise your car using a car jack to a height that will allow you to lie comfortably underneath the vehicle.

2

Open the clamps of your caliper, and place them around the outside of the exhaust pipe. Choose a portion of the pipe that is straight. Close the caliper clamps around the pipe securely, but not tight enough to dig into the metal of the pipe. Record the reading on the calipers on a piece of paper.

3

Stick one clamp arm of the caliper inside the end of the tailpipe, leaving the other clamp arm outside the pipe. Close the clamp around one wall of the pipe, measuring the pipes thickness. Read the caliper and record this number.

4

Multiply the pipes wall thickness by 2. Subtract this number from the total outside pipe diameter determined in Step 2. This remaining number is the inside diameter of your exhaust pipe. The full equation is:

Inside Diameter = Outside diameter - (2*Wall Thickness)

While manufacturers engineer engine valves to withstand their Faustian environment for years on end, even slight spikes in operating temperatures can damage these components. The exhaust valves get the worst of it, since they have to pass thousand-degree gases with only milliseconds of respite to cool down between each cycle. There are several easy ways to burn a valve.

Instructions

1

Reduce the amount of fuel injected and cause the mixture to go lean. Lean air/fuel ratios are probably the single most common culprit behind burned valves. Engines arent designed to burn all of the fuel they inhale; a large portion of it exits the cylinder unburned. Leaning out the air/fuel ratio allows more of the fuel to burn, which increases power and fuel economy (to a point), but it also increases the temperatures inside the cylinder. A clogged or malfunctioning fuel injector can also cause a cylinder to go lean, as can an improperly-tuned computer or carburetor.

2

Slide a huge camshaft into the block. After the exhaust valve picks up heat from the combustion chamber, it has to shed the heat into the cylinder head. A certain amount of this thermal transfer occurs through the valve stem, but much of it takes place while the valve remains shut against the valve seat. A big camshaft keeps the valves open longer, decreasing the amount of time they spend in contact with the cylinder head, and thus the amount of thermal energy they can shed during each cycle.

3

Dont install an exhaust manifold or exhaust headers. Old-school wisdom may have it that an engine needs exhaust back-pressure to function, but this is about as true as saying that people have to hold their breath to live. The reason that engines need an exhaust manifold is that the exhaust valve stays open after the piston starts moving downward in the cylinder. Without a manifold, the exhaust gases would shoot out and the piston would suck oxygen in from the outside and into the chamber, causing the mixture to go lean.

4

Advance your timing excessively. Odds are that excessive ignition timing will result in premature detonation (knock or ping) before it does a burned valve, but sustained high-rpm usage combined with excessive timing can easily damage the valves. This is especially true if you combine a bit of extra timing with a large cam and a lean air/fuel ratio, as some hot-rodders are apt to do.

5

Allow your engine to overheat and wear out. All the valve-to-seat contact time in the world wont save your valves if the coolant is either too hot to carry away thermal energy from the head or is absent entirely. Worn valve guides are another potential trouble spot, since the valve stem needs constant contact with the head in order to remain cool.

Adding a custom exhaust to your car is a good way to gain horsepower and a more aggressive tone to the exhaust at the same time. You could go out and buy a bolt-on system for your Altima, but if you want to truly customize, youll have to step up and have an exhaust built for you. First, though, youll want to find out what size your Altimas exhaust tubing is. That way you have a baseline to use as you determine how much you want to go up.

Instructions

1

Lift the Altima using the jack and place it on jack stands at all four corners. Make sure there is enough room for you to crawl underneath the car.

2

Locate the section of exhaust tubing that you want to measure. Open the calipers and place them over a straight section of exhaust tubing. Then tighten down the caliper until it contacts the exhaust all the way around.

3

Read the dial or digital gauge on your caliper to find out the approximate diameter. Exhaust tubing sells in average sizes: 2.25 inches, 2.5 inches, 2.75 inches, and so on; there are no odd sizes. Round the number on your caliper down to the next quarter size down, and thats your exhaust tubing diameter.

Breaker point distributors were standard equipment on most vehicles prior to the 1970s. The point distributor has a cam-type lobe that opens and closes the breaker points. When the points close, primary voltage is sent to a coil, and the coil sends high voltage to ignite the fuel charge via the spark plug. This sequence is timed for each cylinder as the engine rotates. The distributor cap must be removed to adjust the point gap on most distributors. GM trucks have a small door molded into the cap that provides access to adjust the points while the engine is running.

Instructions

Adjust the Points With a Feeler Gauge

1

Pull the keys from the ignition and pop the hood of the truck. Locate the distributor cap and follow the center ignition wire from the distributor cap to the coil and remove this wire. Most coils mount on top of the engine or the top side of the firewall.

2




Unsnap the clips or remove the screws that hold the distributor cap in place and lift it off the distributor.

3

Remove the rotor button from the top of the distributor shaft. Some rotors are attached with screws, and others just seat over the shaft into a groove to keep the rotor properly aligned.

4

Turn the distributor shaft by rotating the fan blade by hand until the high spot of the distributor lobe opens the contact points or is under the fiber bridge. Turning the fan may require that slight pressure be applied to the fan belt in the direction that the fan is turned.

5

Loosen, but do not remove, the screw that allows the breaker points to move in or away from the distributor shaft.

6

Place a .019-inch feeler gauge flat between the contact points and move the points in or out until the feeler gauge just fits between the contacts. Once adjusted, tighten the hold-down screw. Recheck the point gap, after the screw is tightened, to ensure that the feeler gauge retains the proper fit. If the gap is not right, repeat the adjustment.

7

Insert the keys into the ignition and turn the engine over while an assistant checks to see that the breaker points open and close properly as the distributor shaft rotates.

8

Install the rotor button on the distributor shaft. Look under the rotor button. Some rotors have a square and a round peg that must be inserted in their respective locations. Other rotors just slide into a groove.

9

Replace the distributor cap and coil wire.

Adjust Points With a Dwell Meter

10

Connect the positive lead of a dwell meter to the primary coil wire that comes out of the distributor. Ground the negative lead.

11

Crank the engine over when dwelling the points and observe the gauge reading.

12

Adjust the points contact gap, when dwelling the points, to change the dwell reading. Refer to a service manual for your trucks make, model and year to get the correct number for dwelling the points. Use the same method to adjust the points as in Section 1 but without the feeler gauge.

The Jeep CJ is a series of commercial vehicles that resemble the Willys military Jeep from World War II. American Motors Corporation manufactured the Jeep CJ7 from 1976 to 1986. These vehicles have several different engines, with a four-cylinder 2.5-liter engine being one of the most common. The oil pump for a Jeep CJ7 is under the engine, so you must access it from below the vehicle.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the batterys negative terminal with a socket wrench to prevent anyone from starting the engine. Raise the vehicle with a jack and support it on jack stands.

2

Place a drain pan under the oil drain on the crankcase. Remove the drain plug with a socket wrench, and allow the oil to drain into the drain pan. Replace the drain plug and store the oil.

3

Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the manifold with a socket wrench. Remove the starter.

4

Remove the access plate for the bell housing with a socket wrench. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the oil pan and remove the oil pan.

5

Remove the retaining screws for the oil pump with a socket wrench. Detach the oil pump and its gasket from the engine.

6

Clean the mounting surfaces for the oil pump with a shop rag. Mount the new oil pump gasket and install the new oil pump. Fasten the retaining screws for the oil pump.

7

Install the oil pan and the access plate for the bell housing. Connect the starter and attach the exhaust pipe to the manifold.

8

Lower the vehicle and replace the oil in the engine. Connect the cable to the negative battery cable with a socket wrench.

The corrosive effect of accumulated moisture, vibration and impact damage from road debris makes eventual muffler and exhaust pipe replacement a foregone conclusion. Depending on the model year and the exhaust configuration of your Chrysler 300---dual or single tail pipes---replacing the exhaust pipe involves disconnecting the exhaust pipe from the catalytic converter, loosening the hanger brackets that support the exhaust system and removing the mufflers and exhaust pipes from under the vehicle.

Instructions

Exhaust Pipe Replacement

1

Set the emergency brake and chock the rear wheels with wood blocks. Then, jack the car up on a hard, level surface making certain that the lifting point is a load bearing part of the car chassis and that the vehicle is high enough off the ground to allow easy access to the exhaust system. Position jack stands under the appropriate chassis contact points and ratchet them up to just touching. Now, slowly lower the car onto the jack stands.

2

Position the jack under the muffler and raise the jack to support the muffler before releasing the exhaust pipe from the chassis hangers. Double-check that you have purchased the correct replacement exhaust for your Chrysler 300 model. The typical configuration will have a catalytic converter in the exhaust line on each side of the block feeding by way of a cross-over pipe into a single muffler.

3

Disconnect the oxygen sensors from the exhaust pipe ports near the catalytic converters. Unscrew the two nuts on each U-bolt connecting the exhaust pipes to the back of each catalytic converter. The catalytic converter is the cigar-shaped emissions control device installed in the exhaust system, closest to the engine. Unless you have experienced a loss of power, can smell a sulfur odor or feel heat radiating from the car floor, your catalytic converters are probably okay.

4

Inspect the two mufflers for rust. If the exhaust pipes are rusted badly, the mufflers are ready to be changed, as well. With the car jack positioned under and against the larger muffler, the one closest to the motor, disconnect the exhaust pipe brackets from the support hangers and lower the entire assembly to the ground. To loosen rusted nuts and bolts, apply liberal amounts of WD-40. Give the penetrating oil a few minutes to soak in, then remove the nuts. If the pipes are rusted into the catalytic converters, rap them with a hammer to break the rust loose, but make sure that you are wearing safety glasses when you do this.

5

Assemble the new mufflers and exhaust pipes, on the ground, using the four new U-bolts provided to secure the pipes in each muffler port. Use the old assembly as a guide and compare them side by side for proper length. If you purchased an original equipment manufacturer replacement, the new assembly should fit properly. Check the hangers and hard rubber noise dampers for wear, and replace if necessary.

6

Position the new unit under the car and use the jack to raise it into position. Then, reattach the exhaust pipe brackets to the hangers and reconnect the exhaust pipes to the catalytic converter with two new U-bolts. Dont forget to tighten all the connections and reattach the oxygen sensors. When youve done this, jack up the car, remove the jack stands and slowly lower the car to the ground.

You can reset the airbag light on your Honda Odyssey right from your home garage, saving you time and money. A Honda Odyssey comes with an on-board diagnostics computer that keeps track of all of the vehicles functions. When the Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) light illuminates on the instrument cluster, you need to have the vehicle towed to your mechanic to have it looked at and replaced. Generally, the SRS light only flashes on when the vehicle has been in an accident. If it turns on when there has been no accident, it means the airbag system is malfunctioning and the vehicle should not be driven. But once you have the vehicle fixed, you can reset the light.

Instructions

1

Put on safety equipment such as work gloves and goggles.

2

Locate the MES connector under the steering column. You can find it next to the fuse box. Pull out the plug in the connector and set aside.

3

Use a knife to strip both ends of the coated wire. Touch one end of one wire into one hole on the MES connector and touch one end of the other wire to the other hole in the connector.

4

Cross the ends of the wires together to create a short. Although its low voltage, you shouldnt touch the exposed wires.

5

Place the key into the ignition and turn it on, but dont allow the engine to turn over while still holding the wires together. Watch as the SRS light blinks on then turns off. Separate the wires right away and the SRS light will turn back on.

6

Repeat Step 5 and the SRS light will flash two times and then turn off.

7

Shut off the Honda and wait 60 seconds. Start the engine and notice as the SRS light illuminates then shuts off.

The Camry is a mid-size car that has been manufactured by Toyota since 1980. The 1992 Camry has one oxygen sensor, which reads the amount of oxygen in the exhaust gases and sends the information to the engines fuel delivery system. That system then adjusts the amount of air and fuel being delivered to the engine, based on the reading. A faulty oxygen sensor can cause an increase in emissions and a decrease in fuel efficiency. Replacing the oxygen sensor is a relatively easy task that requires just a few basic tools.

Instructions

Removal

1

Open the hood and locate the oxygen sensor at the base of the exhaust manifold. You will see wires coming out of the top of the oxygen sensor.

2

Apply penetrating oil to the base of the oxygen sensor where it threads into the exhaust manifold.

3

Disconnect the engine wiring harness from the wiring on the oxygen sensor. Use a flat-head screwdriver to pry the connectors apart if necessary.

4

Place the oxygen sensor socket over the top of the oxygen sensor and turn the sensor counterclockwise. If you do not have an oxygen sensor socket, use an open-end wrench. Loosen the oxygen sensor and remove it from the exhaust manifold. Dispose of the old oxygen sensor by recycling it or returning it to an auto parts store.

Installation

5

Apply a thin coat of anti-seize compound to the threaded end of the new oxygen sensor.

6

Insert the new oxygen sensor into the exhaust manifold. Turn the oxygen sensor by hand to make sure that you dont cross-thread it.

7

Tighten the oxygen sensor with the socket or open-end wrench. Be caul not to overtighten the sensor.

8

Connect the new oxygen sensor to the wiring harness.

Depending on your perspective, an off-center steering wheel can be a truly infuriating experience, all the more so when the car doesnt pull to either direction. Theres something about this condition that just seems to baffle the human mind; how can the car be going straight when the wheel is turned? But the reason for a steering wheel turn, and the subsequent fix, is actually pretty simple once you understand what went wrong.

Steering Basics

Your steering wheel connects to a steering column. At the end of that column is a gear called a pinion, and that pinion meshes onto matching teeth on top of a flat bar called a rack. When you turn the pinion, it pushes the rack to the left or the right. The ends of the rack connect to tie rods, which in turn connect to arms extending backward from the wheel hubs. On the tie rods youll find a threaded collar; turning it makes the tie rod longer or shorter, angling the wheel inward or outward. Of course, this describes only a rack-and-pinion system, but most steering systems are functionally identical where the steering linkage is concerned.

Rear Toe and Steering

Most cars also have a second bar running from side-to-side in the rear, and those that dont typically have some provision to turn the axle one direction or the other. While it may seem a bit strange, the rear axle and its tie rods are just as responsible for steering your car as the front. The difference is that the rear axle only turns the rear of the car. If your rear alignment settings -- via the tie rods or axle alignment -- are off, youll have to turn the wheel in the same direction as the rear tires to keep the car pointed down the road. This alone will cause your steering wheel off-center, because the car is actually going down the road slightly sideways.

Alignment Problems

An off-center steering wheel is, paradoxically, a pretty common complaint following a front-wheel alignment. During an alignment, the technician will adjust your front tie rods to whatever degree necessary to remove any pull on the steering wheel. In the course of doing so, hell end up changing the position of the wheels relative to the steering column just to keep them pointed in the same direction as the rear tires. While this does eliminate that sideways pull, itll also permanently cock your car sideways. This "off-tracking" or "dog-tracking" is dangerous because it changes your cars low and high-speed handling characteristics, and itll kill your fuel economy by exposing the broad side of your car to the wind.

Dialing Out the Turn

Since this is essentially a problem with rear wheel angle, you need to adjust that first. The simplest way is to take your car to an alignment shop and have them perform a four-wheel alignment. If youre doing it yourself -- which you shouldnt unless youve got the right equipment -- then you need to get the rear wheels pointed perfectly straight first. Then, youll need to start the engine, turn the wheel a couple of times to relieve pressure from the power steering system. Shut the car down with the wheel locked in a straight-ahead, 12-oclock position. Finally, adjust the front tie rods to get the wheels straight. At this point, the problem is essentially fixed and your car is once again pointed straight, but youre not quite done yet.

Setting the Toe

While it might sound odd, most cars arent going down the road with all four wheels pointed straight forward. Many have a certain degree of front or rear "toe." Toe-in means the front of the wheels point inward, or sort of cross-eyed. Toe-out means they point slightly outward. Different manufacturers and drivers per different degrees of toe-in or -out for a given car. Toe-in makes that axle more stable on the highway and under braking by causing the wheels to constantly try to turn toward each other. Toe-out causes that axle to change direction more quickly at the expense of stability. A zero-toe setting does nothing for directional stability either way, but is the hypothetical optimum for fuel economy. Setting toe is vital for your cars performance and safety, and its somewhat difficult to measure without the right equipment. So, unless you really know what youre doing, these sorts of alignment settings are best left to professionals.

You can access engine codes for your 1989 Volvo 240 from your home garage using an OBD I scanner. This hand-held computerized tool can be purchased from any auto parts store. The On-Board Diagnostics computer receives and stores error codes sent to it from the engine. Sensors in the engine detect malfunctions and servicing needs of the Volvo and send the error codes to the computer. The computer, in turn, illuminates the "Service Engine Soon" or "Check Engine" lights on your instrument panel. The codes can be read using an OBD I scanner. After you read the codes, this same tool can be used to reset the computer and turn off all warning lights after repairs or servicing has been accomplished.

Instructions

1

Plug the OBD I scanner into the large open port on the drivers side dashboard underneath the steering column.

2

Put the key into the ignition, and turn it to the "ACC" position, but dont crank the engine. Wait while the scanner turns on. Some scan tools have an on/off switch that needs to be turned on.

3

Select the "Read Codes" command from the scanners menu. Wait for the scanner to interface with the OBD computer. Write the engine codes it displays on a piece of paper.

4

Unplug the scanner.

The oxygen sensors in your Toyota Tundra monitor the oxygen levels in the exhaust, thus helping regulate your trucks fuel consumption. If your gas mileage has decreased or your "check engine" light is on, the oxygen sensors may be the cause.

If you have a singe exhaust, your Toyota Tundra will have two sensors; if you have dual exhaust, your truck will have four sensors. Buy replacement oxygen sensors from an auto parts retailer or Toyota dealership.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable with a wrench and secure the cable away from the battery.

2

Locate the faulty oxygen sensor. There will be one sensor located in front of the catalytic converter and one located behind the catalytic converter, on the exhaust pipes. If your Tundra is equipped with dual exhaust, you will have four oxygen sensors, two on each pipe.

3

Remove the wiring harness from the oxygen sensor. The harness will simply unplug from the sensor, pulling free.

4

Remove the oxygen sensor from the truck. Your approach will depend on which Tundra engine you have: You can use an oxygen sensor socket and ratchet to unthread the sensor or a box-end wrench to remove the mounting nuts and pull it free of the exhaust.

5

Install the new oxygen sensor and tighten it with an oxygen sensor socket and ratchet--or replace the mounting nuts and tighten them with a box-end wrench, depending on your specific Tundra.

6

Press the wiring harness connector into the connection on the oxygen sensor socket. Repeat this process for the remaining sensors if you are replacing them all.

Exhaust systems are regulated by the government. Many states emissions tests require that the exhaust system, including the muffler, is fully functional and efficient. The muffler is one of the easiest portions of the exhaust system to monitor--either it is working or it is not. You can repair the muffler to address some issues, but you must replace it to fix most problems. A quick troubleshooting session can help determine what action is necessary.

Instructions

1

Turn the vehicle off. For added safety, if the vehicle was recently run, allow it time to cool down because a muffler tends to get hot during operation.

2

Jack the car up high enough to see under the rear, following your manuals jacking procedure instructions.

3

Verify that the muffler is attached to the exhaust pipe. If it is not, take it to a local welder or exhaust shop to have it reattached.

4

Inspect the muffler to ensure it is whole and the mufflers body does not have visible holes or dents.

5

Replace the muffler immediately if there are signs of damage. Obtain a new muffler from your local parts store. With the rear of the car still jacked in the air, locate brackets that are holding the muffler in place. Loosen the brackets and slide the muffler out towards the rear of the vehicle.

6

Slide the new muffler into place, just as the previous muffler was. Utilize the mounting brackets to tighten the muffler back into place. Lower the car by releasing the jack slowly. Start the car and observe the muffler to ensure that exhaust is exiting the muffler port.

The exhaust on a car or truck directs the gasses built up from the internal combustion process out to the back of the vehicle, that way the gasses dont build up inside of the vehicle and cause a carbon monoxide poisoning. If you develop an exhaust leak, then not only will it make an annoying noise, but if it could leak exhaust gasses into the cab which could be dangerous. To fix the issue, you can use a specialized clamp called an exhaust clamp to fix the issue.

Instructions

1

Put the vehicle on jack stands with the jack. Start the engine and listen to locate the exact spot of the exhaust leak, then turn off the engine.

2

Crawl under the car and go to the exhaust leak. Wrap the clamp around the leak, which should not only be a hole, but should also have carbon buildup around the hole, indicating where the leak is.

3

Tighten the clamp down over the exhaust using the flathead screwdriver, making sure that its secure all the way around. Lower the vehicle off the jack stands with the jack.