So Fix it

The Ford 5.4-liter engine is a V-8 engine with aluminum cylinder heads. It appears in various Ford vehicles made since 1997, such as the F-Series of pickup trucks. The 5.4-liter engine has a pair of cylinder heads, one on each side of the engine. The head gasket lies between the cylinder head and the engine block, and makes a tight seal between the two components. The procedure for replacing the cylinder head gaskets is generally the same for both gaskets.

Instructions

1

Evacuate the air-conditioning system with the appropriate evacuating equipment. This step requires a mechanic licensed by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA).

2

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to prevent the engine from starting during the head gasket replacement. Remove the covers for the cylinder head, and disconnect the intake manifold from the engine block. Detach the timing chains from their sprockets, and remove both exhaust manifolds from the engine block.

3

Remove the retaining bolts from the heater hose on the engine block with a socket wrench. Release the hose clamp by squeezing it together and sliding it down the hose. Detach the hose from the engine block. Detach any additional cables, electrical connectors and hoses that restrict your access to the cylinder head.

4

Disconnect the mounting bolts from the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Detach the cylinder head from the engine block. Remove the head gasket from the engine block and discard it. Remove any traces of the gasket from the cylinder head and engine block with a gasket scraper.

5

Turn the crankshaft clockwise by hand so that the key way on the crankshaft is in the 12 oclock position. Place the new gasket for the cylinder head over the dowel pins on the engine block. Mount the cylinder head over the dowel pins, so that the head is on top of the gasket.

6

Install new mounting bolts to the cylinder head by hand. Tighten the bolts to 30 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Tighten the mounting bolts for the cylinder head an additional 85 to 95 degrees on the second pass. Tighten the mounting bolts an additional 85 to 95 degrees on the third pass.

7

Connect the heater hose to the cylinder head, and fasten its retaining bolts with a socket wrench. Slide the hose clamp in place to secure the hose. Attach the exhaust manifolds to the engine block, and mount the timing chains to their sprockets. Connect the intake manifold to the engine block.

8

Attach the covers for the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Connect all additional electrical connectors, cables and hoses you removed to obtain access to the cylinder head.

9

Recharge the air-conditioning system with the appropriate equipment. This step requires a mechanic licensed by the EPA.

10

Fill the engine oil and coolant to their proper levels. Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Start the engine and check for fluid leaks.

The Acura TL is a luxury sports car in production since 1996. The 2002 model is a second generation Acura, which includes the 1999 through 2003 models. The standard engine for all second generation Acuras in North America is a six-cylinder, 3.2-liter engine with a double overhead camshaft. The timing belt synchronizes the crankshaft with the camshafts, so the cylinder valves open and close at the right time.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable for the negative battery terminal and the ignition coil cover with a socket wrench.

2

Place a cushion such as a wooden board on top of a floor jack. Place the floor jack under the oil pan, and raise the vehicle. Remove the front wheel assemblies with a lug wrench. Disconnect the splash shield under the vehicle and remove the accessory drive belts from their respective pulleys.

3

Lower the vehicle with the floor jack and raise it slightly to take the weight of the engine off the engine mounts. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the side mount on the front of the engine, and remove the side mount. Remove the bolt for the dipstick tube with a socket wrench, and detach the tube from the engine.

4

Rotate the crankshaft clockwise to align the white timing mark on the crankshaft pulley with the pointer on the lower rear timing belt cover. The timing marks on the camshaft pulleys must also align with their respective timing marks on the upper rear timing belt cover.

5

Hold the crankshaft pulley in place with Holder Attachment Tool 07MAB-PY3010A. Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt with a socket wrench and a 19mm socket. Pull the crankshaft pulley from its shaft with Holder Attachment Tool 07MAB-PY3010A.

6

Disconnect a bolt for a battery clamp with a socket wrench. Grind a 45-degree bevel on the threaded end of the bolt. Screw the bolt into the hole in the right cylinder head by hand to hold the adjuster for the timing belt in place. Disconnect the engine mount bracket. Turn the mounting bolt for the idler pulley five turns counterclockwise with a socket wrench, and detach the timing belt.

7

Disconnect the spark plugs. Turn the crankshaft sprocket clockwise to align the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket with the timing mark on the oil pump. The timing mark on the camshaft pulleys must also align with their respective timing marks on the rear timing belt covers.

8

Disconnect the battery clamp bolt with a socket wrench and replace it into its original hole. Remove the timing belt tensioner and place it into a soft-jawed vise with the maintenance bolt pointed up. Remove the maintenance bolt with a socket wrench. Place Stopper Tool 14540-P8A-A01 onto the tensioner to maintain the tension setting. Turn the screw inside the maintenance hole clockwise with a flat-blade screwdriver to compress the bottom of the tensioner.

9

Replace the gasket for the maintenance bolt on the timing belt tensioner and tighten the bolt to 6 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Install the tensioner and tighten its mounting bolts to 33 ft. lbs.

10

Mount the new timing belt to the crankshaft sprocket, idler pulley, left camshaft sprocket, water pump pulley, right camshaft sprocket and adjusting pulley in that order. Remove Stopper Tool 14540-P8A-A01 from the timing belt tensioner.

11

Install the bolts for the engine side mount with a torque wrench. Tighten the No. 10 bolts to 33 ft. lbs., and tighten the No. 6 bolts to 104 in. lbs. Connect the timing belt covers with a socket wrench. Install the crankshaft pulley with Holder Attachment tool 07MAB-PY3010A. Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt with a torque wrench and a 19mm socket to 181 ft. lbs.

12

Turn the crankshaft five complete turns clockwise to position the timing belt, and align the timing marks. Connect the dipstick tube, accessory drive belts, splash shield and front wheel assemblies. Lower the vehicle and replace the ignition coil cover. Attach the cable to the negative battery terminal.

The catalytic converter reduces smog emissions by converting harmful emissions from your engine into less dangerous gases. Like any other part on your car, there will come a time when the catalytic converter will need to be replaced either because it is broken and has holes in it, or it just gets clogged up. The project is not difficult, and the entire process will take about an hour to an hour and a half to complete.

Instructions

1

Park the car on a level surface and set the parking brake.

2

Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.

3

Raise the car with an automobile jack and place a jack stand under the car at the frame rail. Position the jack stand as close as possible to the frame.

4

Remove the bolts from the front and back end of the catalytic converter with the proper size socket and a ratchet.

5

Remove the catalytic converter from the exhaust system by twisting it and tapping the ends with a rubber mallet.

6

Install the new catalytic converter in place of the old one and secure it with the bolts hand-tight.

7

Tighten all of the bolts with the proper size socket and ratchet.

8

Remove the jack stand and lower the car to the ground with the jack.

Jeep Wranglers are equipped with hydraulic clutches. There are two components to a hydraulic clutch system, a master cylinder and slave cylinder. When you push on the clutch with your foot the master cylinder pushes hydraulic fluid down a line to the slave cylinder. The slave cylinder then pushes the clutch lever, opening and closing the clutch. Master cylinders have a tendency to lose pressure over time and need to be changed.

Instructions

1

Remove the clutch master cylinder cap. It is bolted to the firewall at the highest point above the steering column. Suck out all the fluid with the syringe.

2

Disconnect the hydraulic line coming into the cylinder with a 3/8-inch open end wrench.

3

Remove the upper and lower master cylinder mounting nuts with the 1/2-inch wrench.

4

Lean under the dashboard on the inside of the cab. Trace the clutch pedal up to the point where it meets the lever coming in from the master cylinder. The pedal is joined to the lever with a cotter pin. Pull out the cotter pin with pliers. Using your fingers, disconnect the pedal from the lever by pulling it to the side.

5

Pull the cylinder free from the firewall. Insert the new cylinder. Screw both cylinder mounting bolts back into the firewall securing the cylinder to the firewall. Screw the 3/8-inch hydraulic line onto the new cylinder.

6

Lean under the dashboard. Connect the clutch pedal to the master cylinder lever coming in through the firewall. Insert the cotter pin.

7

Fill the master cylinder with hydraulic fluid but leave the cap off. Get into the vehicle and pump the brake several times until the brakes have sufficient resistance. You will be able to feel the brake get stiff as any air escapes when you are pumping the brakes. Put the cap back on the master cylinder.

When the Check Engine light comes on in your 2000 Toyota Camry, it may indicate a faulty oxygen sensor. Another indication of a failing oxygen sensor is a significant decrease in fuel mileage. If youre spending more time and money at the pump, check your oxygen sensors. The oxygen sensors in your Camry are located before and after the exhaust manifold, protruding from the exhaust pipes. Buy a new sensor from an auto parts retailer.

Instructions

1

Start the ignition of your Camry and allow the engine to run for approximately five minutes. Turn the ignition off.

2

Raise the front of the 2000 Camry with a jack and secure it on a set of jack stands. Remove the jack once the front of the Camry is supported on the jack stands so you can slide under the car.

3

Slide under the Camry and locate the oxygen sensor. Unplug the sensors electrical connector. Press the retaining clip and pull the plug out of the connection.

4

Remove the sensor with an oxygen sensor socket and ratchet. If the sensor in your Camry is secured with bolts, remove the two bolts with a socket and ratchet and pull the sensor straight out. Discard the old sensor and gasket.

5

Install the new gasket on the replacement sensor. Thread the sensor in by hand and tighten it with an oxygen sensor socket and ratchet or, if it is secured with bolts, install it straight into place and tighten the bolts with a socket and ratchet. Press the electrical connection together until it clicks.

6

Repeat the process on the other sensor if necessary.

7

Raise the car slightly with the jack to remove the jack stands. Lower the car to the ground.

There are a variety of components in the emission control system of modern automobiles, one of which is the Oxygen (O2) sensor. It measures the amount of oxygen present in the engine exhaust. The O2 sensor is linked to the Lexus SC400s computer, which then makes adjustments to the fuel/air mixture as the engine is running. This helps the engine run at peak efficiency, reducing exhaust pollution. The O2 sensor requires periodic replacement. Many owners can do the job themselves.

Instructions

1

Park your Lexus SC400. Set the parking brake, and open the engine hood. Let the engine cool completely before proceeding.

2

Locate the O2 sensor. Its in the lower engine area on the passenger side, threaded into the exhaust manifold.

3

Remove the wire from the sensor. Spray some anti-seize spray at the bottom of the sensor where it goes into the manifold. Let the fluid penetrate for a few minutes before proceeding.

4

Remove the sensor with the appropriate size socket and ratchet. Rotate the sensor counter-clockwise to loosen.

5

Install the new sensor into the hole and tighten firmly. Attach the wire and the job is finished.

The fuel pump to your Saturn is what pressurizes the gasoline in the fuel tank and sends it to the fuel injectors and then to the engine to burn. If you are experiencing problems while driving your Saturn, such as sudden bursts of acceleration when pressing on the gas pedal steady or if the fuel pump is making noise and/or leaking, then the pump may be faulty and need replacing. This is a task that requires additional and more advanced knowledge about automotive repair, specifically in fuel and exhaust systems.

Instructions

Removing the Fuel Pump/Level Sensor Module

1

Relieve your Saturns fuel pressure system. Remove the fuel cap to equalize the pressure in the fuel tank.

2

Remove the negative cable from the battery.

3

Raise your Saturn with the jack and support it with jack stands.

4

Remove the fuel tank from under your Saturn. The tank must be as empty as possible, which may require some siphoning (with a siphoning kit).

5

Pinch together the legs of the retainers on the supply and return fuel lines with your needle-nose pliers. Pull the fittings from the fuel pump/level sensor module. Use a shop rag for any spilled fuel.

6

Mark on the fuel pump and on the fuel tank its exact position in the tank. Make sure these indicators align.

7

Unscrew the modules locknut counter-clockwise with your large channel locks. You may need to loosen the locknut using a hammer and a brass (not steel) punch.

8

Take out the module through the mounting hole. Be caul not to abruptly pull on the module, potentially breaking off the float or float arm into the fuel tank.

9

Check the O-ring seal on the mounting flange and replace if damaged.

Installing the New Fuel Pump/Level Sensor Module

10

Mark the new module on the same areas you marked on the old module to erence its position in the fuel tank.

11

Install the new fuel pump/level sensor module into the mounting hole of the fuel tank with care. Do not harm the fuel inlet strainer, float arm and float while inserting the module. Line up the markings you made on the module and fuel tank.

12

Install and screw on the modules locknut. Tighten it down with your channel locks.

13

Connect the fuel supply and return lines to the module. Check that they are secure on the module by lightly twisting and tugging them.

14

Install the fuel tank back under your Saturn.

15

Pour the fuel from the gas can into the filler hole. Install and tighten the fuel cap.

16

Reconnect the negative cable on the battery.

17

Remove the jack stands and lower your Saturn.

You can replace the rubber gasket on your windshield from home in about a half hours time. Sometimes the rubber gasket can deteriorate over time due to age and weather. You usually dont need to remove the windshield to do this job. The gasket and molding strip are what hold the windshield in place. You just need a few items purchased from your local auto parts store to get the job done. Youll need to replace the gasket if you have a lot of condensation inside the passengers cabin which can interfere with visibility.

Instructions

1

Cut the gasket around the windshield with a razor knife. Have an assistant stand outside of the vehicle to catch the windshield as you push it from the inside out.

2

Place 1/16-inch molding cord into the new gasket and wrap it around the windshield, starting at the center of the bottom of the windshield. Wrap it around the entire edge of the windshield. Allow the ends to overlap by 3 inches. Leave a 12-inch cord hanging out. Secure the pieces that overlap with masking tape.

3

Spray the new gasket and the metallic lip of the windshield opening with a mixture of soap and water.

4

Remount the windshield into the windshield opening, bottom edge first, from the outside of the vehicle. Have your assistant get inside the vehicle while you push on the windshield from the outside. Ask your assistant to pull the end of the cord until the windshield slides into place. Use the putty knife to push the molding into the channel.

Some questions are harder to answer than others; what is the meaning of life, why do things in movies and video games always happen in threes, and why is it so hard to find an engine mount removal procedure for a late-90s Escort or Escort ZX2? Maybe Ford thought Mazda or Kia -- who both used the "B" platform -- were supposed to cover the Escort. And probably vice-versa. Fortunately, aside from the torque specs, the actual procedure is much like the mount replacement procedures for every other four-cylinder ever produced.

Instructions

1

Place a set of chocks behind the rear wheels, set the parking brake, and lift the front end of your car just enough that you can fit under it. Youll be using your floor jack to support the engine from underneath, and youll be in a precarious position if you place the engine out of reach of the jack.

2

Identify the engine mount the you want to replace. There are four: the top motor mounts on the driver- and passenger-side of the car, and the lower front and rear motor mounts. The fact that this chassis has four motor mounts greatly simplifies the replacement procedure since either the top two or the bottom two could hypothetically support the weight of the drivetrain.

3

Slide the floor jack under the engine, and place a piece of lumber on top of the jack pad to protect the oilpan. Bias the jack toward the mount that youll be replacing. In this instance, youre not so much supporting the engine as you are keeping it from moving while you remove the mount and after you remove it. Avoid the exhaust pipe and the suspension components, and bias the jack as close to the mount as possible; just make sure that you leave enough room to access the mount itself.

4

Remove the mounts through-bolt first. Remove the nut from the bolt, and try to tap it out with the end of your wrench. If it doesnt move, then apply a little bit of upward pressure with the jack to take some of the weight off the bolt. If it proves extremely difficult, spray the bolt with some penetrating lubricant, and turn the bolt head.

5

Spray the engine mount nuts with penetrating oil if necessary, and remove them. Pull the mount off. You may find it easier, particularly on the lower mounts, to remove the corresponding bracket, and remove the two as a unit. Once you have the mount off, installation is the reverse of removal. The only major differences are that you may need to adjust the height of the engine with the jack to aid in aligning the through-bolt holes, and that you may want to clean the bolt and stud threads with solvent and use a drop of medium (blue) threadlocker for peace of mind. See the torque specs below for nut and bolt torques.

The Jeep Wrangler is a compact sport utility vehicle with four-wheel drive produced by Chrysler since 1987. The engine in all versions of the 2000 Jeep Wrangler is a 6-cylinder 4.0-liter which uses multi-port fuel injection. This type of fuel injection requires an electric fuel pump that delivers fuel to the engine under high pressure. The fuel pump in a 2000 Jeep Wrangler is located in the fuel tank, which you must remove in order to replace the fuel pump.

Instructions

1

Remove the fuel pump relay from the power distribution center. Start the engine, and allow it to run until it stalls. Crank the engine to ensure that it will not start, and turn the ignition switch to the off position. Disconnect the cable to the batterys negative terminal with a socket wrench to prevent accidental sparking while you work on the vehicle.

2

Drain the fuel tank by siphoning the fuel through the filler cap opening into a container approved for gasoline. Disconnect the fuel filler from the body of the vehicle with a socket wrench. Remove the right rear tire and its wheelhouse liner to gain access to the two vapor lines for the fuel tank, and disconnect the vapor lines. Detach the electrical connector and fuel supply line for the fuel tank.

3

Support the fuel tank with a transmission jack, and remove the bolts that hold the fuel tank to the skid plate. Lower the fuel tank slightly, so you can disconnect the fuel filler hose from the fuel tank. Remove the nuts for the fuel tank straps, and separate the fuel tank from the skid plate. Remove the fuel tank from the vehicle.

4

Place special tool 9340 into the notches on the outside edge of the lock ring of the fuel pump. Attach a 1/2-inch breaker bar to the special tool, and rotate the breaker bar counterclockwise. Remove the lock ring from the fuel pump module, and detach the fuel pump module from the fuel tank. Discard the gasket on the fuel tank.

5

Install a new gasket on the fuel tank, and install the new fuel pump into the fuel tank. Place the locking ring on the fuel pump module, and align the arrow on the locking ring with the center alignment mark on the fuel pump module. Turn the locking ring clockwise with special tool 9340 until the notches on the locking ring engage. Install the fuel tank by reversing steps 3 and 2. Tighten the nuts for the fuel tank strap so there is 30 mm of clearance between the bottom of the nuts and the end of the strap studs. Tighten the nuts for the skid plate to 141 inch-lbs. with a torque wrench. Fill the fuel tank, and connect the cable to the negative terminal of the battery. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.

A vehicles water pump is used to push engine coolant through the cooling system to keep the engine from overheating. In the 1991 Honda Accord the engine itself, through the use of the timing belt, drives the water pump. If the water pump fails the engine could overheat and cause major damage. If this happens, the old water pump will need to be removed and replaced with a new one. In the 1991 Honda Accord, the water pump is located on the left side of the engine just behind the front left tire.

Instructions

Removal

1

Disconnect the battery from the motor by removing the cable going to the negative pole on the battery. This is to ensure that there is no electricity going to the car so nothing can short.

2

Empty the coolant from the engine by opening the plug in the bottom of the radiator. Let the coolant drain into a clean container so that it can be re-used after the installation of the new water pump.

3

Align the timing marks on the engine by turning the crankshaft until cylinder number one reaches top dead center (TDC) of the compression stroke. Take off the timing belt and make sure that the engine doesnt turn at any time during the removal or replacement process.

4

Unscrew the six bolts holding in the water pump, making sure to keep track of which hole each bolt came from. The bolt heads are 1 mm in diameter.

5

Pull the water pump and O-ring from the motor to complete the removal process.

Installation

6

Place some sealant on the rubber surface of the new water pump located near the bleed hole to protect it from tearing.

7

Insert the new O-ring and water pump into the spot where the old pump came from on the motor. Make sure that the holes for the bolts on the new pump are lined up with the holes on the motor.

8

Replace the six bolts on the new water pump. Use a torque wrench to tighten them to 9 ft.-lbs. of torque.

9

Replace the timing belt on the engine and pour the coolant from its container back into the radiator. Make sure the engine coolant is completely filled before starting your vehicle.

10

Reconnect the battery to the motor by connecting the negative wire to the negative battery terminal and start your vehicle. Check for any excessive leaking coming from the newly installed water pump. A small amount of fluid coming from the bleed hole is okay.

The Isuzu Rodeo was a pickup truck manufactured by Isuzu from 1988 to 2002, when the D-Max replaced it. The 2001 Rodeo may have a four-cylinder, 2.2L engine or a six-cylinder, 3.2L engine. All versions of the 2001 Isuzu Rodeo use multi-port fuel injection, which requires a high-pressure electric fuel pump. The fuel pump in these vehicles is located on top of the fuel tank, which requires you to remove the fuel tank to gain access to it.

Instructions

1

Remove the filler cap, and disconnect the fuel pump relay in the relay box under the hood. Start the engine and allow it to stall. Crank the engine for an additional 30 seconds and turn the ignition off. Drain the fuel tank, and disconnect the cable to the batterys negative terminal with a socket wrench.

2

Disconnect the fuel filler lines and vent lines from the fuel tank. Remove the skid plate for the fuel tank. Disconnect the electrical connector from the fuel tank. Disconnect the fuel supply line and the fuel return line from the fuel tank.

3

Raise the vehicle with a floor jack and support the fuel tank with a jack stand. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the fuel tank with a socket wrench. Lower the fuel tank to the ground with the jack. Remove the fuel pump assembly from the fuel tank.

4

Install the new fuel pump assembly to the fuel tank. Connect the fuel tank and tighten its mounting bolts to a torque of 27 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Connect the fuel supply line and fuel return line to the fuel tank. Connect the electrical connector to the fuel tank.

5

Attach the skid plate to the fuel tank. Connect the fuel filler line and vent line to the fuel tank. Connect the cable to the batterys negative terminal and fill the tank with fuel. Start the engine and inspect the fuel lines for leaks.

The BMW 635CSi is part of the BMW 6-series line of vehicles. The struts are part of the cars suspension. Struts prevent the car from bouncing too much. When struts go bad, it is apparent in the handling of the vehicle. Bad struts will begin to affect other parts of the vehicles suspension, so they should be replaced as soon as damage is evident. For best results, both struts should be replaced at the same time, and struts designed to fit on the 635CSi should be used.

Instructions

1

Park the BMW 635CSi on a flat, level surface, and set the parking brake. Loosen the lug nuts with a lug wrench. Place a jack under the center of the vehicle, and jack it up until jack stands can be placed under both axles. Remove the lug nuts with a lug wrench. Remove the wheel.

2

Remove the sway bar end from the strut with a socket wrench. Remove the brake hose bracket with a socket wrench. Loosen the bolts holding the strut to the steering knuckle. Remove the caliper mounting bolts, then remove the caliper. Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts.

3

Remove the bolts from the upper strut mounting bracket with a socket wrench. Remove the lower strut mounting bolts. Remove the strut assembly from the vehicle.

4

Compress the spring on the strut with a strut spring compressor. Remove the shaft nut with an open ended wrench. Remove the strut mount.

5

Thread the strut shaft nut onto the new strut with a torque wrench, and tighten it to the pressure indicated on the strut packaging. Remove the spring compressor.

6

Put the strut assembly in position, and install the lower mounting bolts and the upper mounting bracket with a socket wrench.

7

Reinstall the strut-to knuckle bolts with a socket wrench, but do not tighten them completely. Mount and secure the caliper with a socket wrench. Finish tightening the strut-to-knuckle bolts. Reattach the brake hose bracket and sway bar end.

8

Place the wheel back on the hub, and tighten the lug nuts most of the way with a lug wrench.

9

Repeat the entire procedure with the other strut.

10

Remove the jack stands, and lower the BMW. Tighten all of the lug nuts completely with the lug wrench.

A 3100 engine is a 3.1-liter version of the 60-degree V-6 engines from General Motors. It was in production from 1993 to 2005, and appears in many General Motors vehicles from this period, especially Buicks. The 3100 engine has sequential fuel injection, which uses fuel injectors under electronic control to deliver fuel to the cylinders. The procedure for replacing the fuel injectors in a 3100 engine is the same for all vehicles made after 2000.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal so you dont start the engine accidentally. Open the filler cap on the fuel tank to relieve the fuel tank pressure.

2

Wrap a shop rag around the pressure test fitting on the fuel rail. Attach a fuel pressure gauge to the fitting, and place the bleed hose on the pressure gauge into a gasoline container. Open the valve on the pressure gauge to relieve the pressure in the fuel rail, and drain the excess fuel into the container.

3

Disconnect the upper intake manifold from the engine with a socket wrench. Detach the fuel send and return lines from the fuel injector. Remove the electrical connectors from the fuel injector and the coolant temperature sensor.

4

Disconnect the fuel rail from the cylinder heads with a socket wrench. Detach the retaining clips from the fuel injector, and remove the fuel injector from the fuel rail. Discard the O-rings on the fuel injector.

5

Lubricate the new O-rings with engine oil, and mount them on the new fuel injector. Connect the fuel injector to the fuel rail, and attach the retaining clips to the fuel injector. Install the fuel rail to the engine, and torque its mounting bolts to 7 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

6

Attach the electrical connectors for the coolant temperature sensor and fuel injector. Connect the fuel send and return lines to the fuel injector, and tighten their retaining nuts to 13 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Install the upper intake manifold, and tighten its mounting bolts to 18 foot-pounds.

7

Attach the negative battery cable with a socket wrench, and fasten the fuel filler cap. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.

The Ford 6.0 Power Stroke is an eight-cylinder 6.0-liter engine that Ford has manufactured since 2003. It is a diesel engine that Ford most often uses in large vehicles such as 3/4-ton and 1-ton pickups. The function of the fuel injectors is to deliver fuel in a precise timing and quantity. You can replace the fuel injectors on the Ford 6.0 diesel engine without removing the fuel rail, unlike most gasoline engines.

Instructions

1

Remove the valve covers with a socket wrench and detach the electrical connectors from the fuel injectors. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the crankcase-to-head tube assembly and remove the assembly from the crankcase.

2

Disconnect the oil rail from the engine. Push the electrical connector for the fuel injector out of the rocker arm carrier with a small pry tool.

3

Plug the oil drain holes next to the glow plugs with clean cloth. Disconnect the retaining bolt for the fuel injectors with a socket wrench and release the hold-down clamp.

4

Pry the fuel injectors from the engine with a Snap-On SDMT440 Torx tool so that you dont damage the fuel injectors. Discard the O-rings and copper washer on the fuel injector. Pull the cloth from the oil drain holes.

5

Mount new O-rings and copper washers to the fuel injectors. Coat the fuel injector assembly with clean engine oil and install the fuel injector. Attach the hold-down clamp for to the fuel injector and torque the mounting bolts to 24 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench.

6

Place the electrical connector for the fuel injector electrical into the rocker carrier. Lubricate the top O-rings on the fuel injector with engine oil.

7

Install the oil rail into the fuel injectors so that the mounting feet of the oil rail are flush with their mounting surface on the engine. Install three guide bolts to hold the oil rail in place.

8

Install six of the nine mounting bolts for the oil rail. Replace the three guide bolts with the three remaining mounting bolts. Tighten all nine mounting bolts to 10 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench.

9

Connect the crankcase-to-head tube assembly and tighten the mounting bolts to 60 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Attach the electrical connector to the fuel injector and install the valve covers.

The Sonoma compact pickup truck was introduced by General Motors to the North American market in 1982. Sonoma pickups were known for their durable and reliable engines, but they still needed to be serviced from time to time. One of the problems the Sonoma engine could face was a blown head gasket.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable. Drain the engine coolant. Remove the engine cooling fan assembly. Remove the power steering pump mounting bracket. Remove the power steering pump mounting bracket stud from the cylinder head.

2

Remove the lower intake manifold. Remove the exhaust manifold. Remove the spark plug wire harness and the spark plug wire support. Remove the ground wire bolt and the ground wire from the rear of the cylinder head. Make sure you secure the ground wire out of the way.

3

Remove the bolt holding the fuel pipe bracket to the rear of the cylinder head. Now you have access to the cylinder head gasket. Remove the cylinder head and gasket. Clean the engine block and the cylinder head sealing surfaces. Clean the cylinder head bolts and the engine block bolt holes.

4

Install the new cylinder head gasket. To re-install all parts follow the same procedure in reverse.

The Jeep CJ is a series of commercial vehicles that resemble the Willys military Jeep from World War II. American Motors Corporation manufactured the Jeep CJ7 from 1976 to 1986. These vehicles have several different engines, with a four-cylinder 2.5-liter engine being one of the most common. The oil pump for a Jeep CJ7 is under the engine, so you must access it from below the vehicle.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the batterys negative terminal with a socket wrench to prevent anyone from starting the engine. Raise the vehicle with a jack and support it on jack stands.

2

Place a drain pan under the oil drain on the crankcase. Remove the drain plug with a socket wrench, and allow the oil to drain into the drain pan. Replace the drain plug and store the oil.

3

Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the manifold with a socket wrench. Remove the starter.

4

Remove the access plate for the bell housing with a socket wrench. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the oil pan and remove the oil pan.

5

Remove the retaining screws for the oil pump with a socket wrench. Detach the oil pump and its gasket from the engine.

6

Clean the mounting surfaces for the oil pump with a shop rag. Mount the new oil pump gasket and install the new oil pump. Fasten the retaining screws for the oil pump.

7

Install the oil pan and the access plate for the bell housing. Connect the starter and attach the exhaust pipe to the manifold.

8

Lower the vehicle and replace the oil in the engine. Connect the cable to the negative battery cable with a socket wrench.

The Lumina was manufactured by Chevrolet and first introduced on the North American market in 1990. It featured three different body types. Chevrolet Luminas engines were equipped with multiport fuel injection system that required a special intake manifold. The intake manifold is designed to distribute the air fuel mixture in the engine. As the fluids pass constantly through the intake manifold, the gaskets get corroded and require to be replaced.

Instructions

Removal

1

Disconnect the batterys negative (ground) cable to prevent injury. Disconnect the vacuum hose connection from the throttle body air inlet duct. Disconnect the wiring harness connection from the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor in the throttle body air inlet duct. Remove the throttle body air inlet duct. Drain the engine coolant from the cooling system.

2

Remove the accelerator control and cruise control cables with bracket from the throttle body. Remove the wiring harness from the retainer. Disconnect the throttle position (TP) sensor and idle air control (IAC) valve wiring harness connectors from the throttle body. Disconnect the front spark plug wires.

3

Disconnect the wiring harness attachment clips of camshaft position sensor (CMP). Remove the nut from the coolant pipe to the throttle body. Disconnect the thermostat bypass pipe coolant hoses from the throttle body. Remove the engine mount struts. Disconnect the right spark plug wire retaining clips. Remove the spark plug wires at the coil pack.

4

Remove the ignition coil bracket with the coils, the purge solenoid, the vacuum canister solenoid, the vacuum lines, and the electrical connections. Disconnect the vacuum hose at the manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor. Remove the Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) sensor and the bracket. Disconnect the emission control vacuum harness. Disconnect the vacuum booster hose, automatic transaxle vacuum modulator hose, heather and air conditioning vacuum source hose and fuel pressure hose from the intake manifold.

5

Remove the drive belt. Remove the front generator brace. Remove the rear generator brace. Remove the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve. Remove the right-hand intake manifold bolts and studs. Remove the left-hand upper intake manifold bolts. Remove the intake manifold. Remove the intake manifold gasket.

Installation

6

Install the throttle body. Lay the intake manifold gasket on the cylinder block. Position the intake manifold on the new gasket. Loosely tighten the left hand intake manifold bolts, the right hand intake manifold bolts and the studs. Then, tighten the intake manifold bolts and studs 18 foot-pounds of torque.

7

Install the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve. Install the rear generator brace and the front generator brace. Connect the vacuum hose connections to the intake manifold. Those connections include the vacuum booster hose, automatic transaxle vacuum modulator hose, heather and air conditioning vacuum source hose and the fuel regulator hose.

8

Plug in the emission control vacuum harness. Install the manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor and bracket. Connect the vacuum hose at the manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor and the intake manifold. Install the ignition coil bracket with the coils, the purge solenoid, the vacuum canister solenoid, and the spark plug wire retainers. Connect the plug wires to the ignition module. Connect the vacuum lines, and the electrical connections. Return the engine to the proper position.

9

Install the engine mount struts. Connect the thermostat bypass pipe and the coolant hoses to the throttle body. Connect the camshaft position (CMP) sensor wiring harness, spark plug wire harness and engine wiring harness. Install the throttle position (TP) sensor and idle air control (IAC) valve.

10

Install the accelerator control and cruise control cables with bracket to the throttle body. Connect the wiring harness to the retainer. Fill the cooling system with engine coolant. Install the throttle body air inlet duct. Connect the wiring harness connection to the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor in the throttle body air inlet duct and then connect the vacuum hose connection to the throttle body air inlet duct. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

The corrosive effect of accumulated moisture, vibration and impact damage from road debris makes eventual muffler and exhaust pipe replacement a foregone conclusion. Depending on the model year and the exhaust configuration of your Chrysler 300---dual or single tail pipes---replacing the exhaust pipe involves disconnecting the exhaust pipe from the catalytic converter, loosening the hanger brackets that support the exhaust system and removing the mufflers and exhaust pipes from under the vehicle.

Instructions

Exhaust Pipe Replacement

1

Set the emergency brake and chock the rear wheels with wood blocks. Then, jack the car up on a hard, level surface making certain that the lifting point is a load bearing part of the car chassis and that the vehicle is high enough off the ground to allow easy access to the exhaust system. Position jack stands under the appropriate chassis contact points and ratchet them up to just touching. Now, slowly lower the car onto the jack stands.

2

Position the jack under the muffler and raise the jack to support the muffler before releasing the exhaust pipe from the chassis hangers. Double-check that you have purchased the correct replacement exhaust for your Chrysler 300 model. The typical configuration will have a catalytic converter in the exhaust line on each side of the block feeding by way of a cross-over pipe into a single muffler.

3

Disconnect the oxygen sensors from the exhaust pipe ports near the catalytic converters. Unscrew the two nuts on each U-bolt connecting the exhaust pipes to the back of each catalytic converter. The catalytic converter is the cigar-shaped emissions control device installed in the exhaust system, closest to the engine. Unless you have experienced a loss of power, can smell a sulfur odor or feel heat radiating from the car floor, your catalytic converters are probably okay.

4

Inspect the two mufflers for rust. If the exhaust pipes are rusted badly, the mufflers are ready to be changed, as well. With the car jack positioned under and against the larger muffler, the one closest to the motor, disconnect the exhaust pipe brackets from the support hangers and lower the entire assembly to the ground. To loosen rusted nuts and bolts, apply liberal amounts of WD-40. Give the penetrating oil a few minutes to soak in, then remove the nuts. If the pipes are rusted into the catalytic converters, rap them with a hammer to break the rust loose, but make sure that you are wearing safety glasses when you do this.

5

Assemble the new mufflers and exhaust pipes, on the ground, using the four new U-bolts provided to secure the pipes in each muffler port. Use the old assembly as a guide and compare them side by side for proper length. If you purchased an original equipment manufacturer replacement, the new assembly should fit properly. Check the hangers and hard rubber noise dampers for wear, and replace if necessary.

6

Position the new unit under the car and use the jack to raise it into position. Then, reattach the exhaust pipe brackets to the hangers and reconnect the exhaust pipes to the catalytic converter with two new U-bolts. Dont forget to tighten all the connections and reattach the oxygen sensors. When youve done this, jack up the car, remove the jack stands and slowly lower the car to the ground.

A vehicles coil springs take up less space than leaf springs and are also quieter than leaf springs. When a coil spring breaks, you might end up with two independent springs. This could pose a problem when performing repairs because one spring is on top of the other. The top portion of the spring might not be accessible, and it could still be under extreme pressure. You can remove a coil spring in yourself in a series of steps. Just do the job caully and precisely to prevent injury.

Instructions

1

Park the 1972 Cutlass on solid ground and block the wheels. Jack up the car. Use a lug wrench to loosen the lug nuts. Remove the nuts and the wheel from the hub that needs the spring replaced.

2

Place a 4-inch by 4-inch block under the lower A-arm ball joint. Lower the jack so the car is supported both by the block and the jack. Unscrew the top shock nut and remove the lower shock bolts. Remove the shock from the center of the spring.

3

Insert a spring compressor inside the center of the coil spring. Hook the top and bottom of the spring compressor to a coil. Tighten the spring compressor nut to compress the coil spring and relieve pressure on the A-arms.

4

Pull the cotter pin out of the castle nut of the top ball joint using a pair of pliers. Use a socket and ratchet to remove the ball joint nut from the upper ball joint.

5

Slide a pickle fork between the spindle and upper ball joint. Smack the pickle fork end with a hammer until the spindle pops off the ball joint shaft.

6

Raise the jack slowly. Let the spindle fall to the side and release all the pressure from the spring. With all the pressure off the coil spring, lift it out of the lower A-arm.

7

Release the spring compressor from the old spring backing down the nut. Install the spring compressor onto the new spring to be installed. Slide the new spring up inside the frame of the 1972 Cutlass.

8

Lower the jack until the upper ball joint can be inserted into the top spindle hole. Push the ball joint shaft through the top spindle hole. Re-Install the castle nut to the upper ball joint. Slowly release the coil spring compressor.

9

Tighten the upper ball joint castle nut to the ball joint and insert the cotter pin. Raise the car with the jack and replace the wheel. Reinstall and tighten the five lug nuts on the hub of the 1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass.