So Fix it

An engines firing order is the sequence that each cylinder is used in power delivery. The firing order for the 6.6L turbo diesel V8 in the 2004 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 2WD is 1-2-7-8-4-5-6-3.

Gasoline Versus Diesel

In a gasoline engine, the distributor or Engine Control Unit sends electricity to individual spark plugs to ignite fuel in each cylinder in a specific order. In a diesel engine it is determined by the order in which fuel is injected into each cylinder.

Cylinder 1

Engine firing orders always start with cylinder number one, which on this engine is located at the front left of the engine from the drivers point of view.

Cylinder Banks

GM V8 cylinders are numbered 1-3-5-7 on the left (drivers) side of the engine, and 2-4-6-8 on the right (passenger) side.

The 1995 Chevrolet Suburban is available with a V-8 engine, which has a cylinder head on each side. The cylinder head forms part of the combustion chamber, and contains the poppet valves and spark plugs. A cracked cylinder head can contaminate the Suburbans oil supply with coolant, giving the oil a milky appearance. The components you need to remove to install a cylinder head on a 1995 Chevrolet Suburban are different for each head. The replacement of both cylinder heads requires up to nine hours of labor.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Drain the coolant from the radiator into a container, and store it for later use. Disconnect the intake manifold and exhaust manifolds from the vehicle.

2

Disconnect the attaching bolt from the air pipe on the right cylinder head with a socket wrench, and detach the pipe. Remove the mounting bolts from the air compressor on the right cylinder head, and push the compressor aside. Remove the fuel line and spark plug wire from the right cylinder head. Detach the ground wire from the right side cylinder head.

3

Disconnect the mounting bolt from the main accessory bracket, and detach the bracket from the left cylinder head. Push the bracket aside to obtain access to the left cylinder head. Detach the coolant sensor wire and spark plug wires from the rear of the left cylinder head.

4

Disconnect the covers for the cylinder heads with a socket wrench, and unscrew the spark plugs from the cylinder heads. Loosen the retaining nuts for the rocker arms, and rotate the rocker arms to obtain access to the push rods. Record the position of the push rods, and remove the push rods from the cylinder heads.

5

Remove the mounting bolts from the cylinder heads with a socket wrench, and lift the heads from the engine block. Remove the gasket from the engine block, and clean any remaining traces of gasket material from the engine block with a gasket scraper. Mount a new gasket to the engine block so that the word HEAD on the gasket faces up. Place the new cylinder head on the engine block.

6

Clean the mounting bolts for the cylinder heads with a shop cloth, and fasten them to the cylinder head by hand. Tighten the cylinder head bolts with a torque wrench in three passes. The first pass must tighten them to 25 foot-pounds, the second pass must tighten them to 45 foot-pounds and the third pass must tighten them to 65 foot-pounds.

7

Place the push rods in their original positions on the cylinder head that you recorded in step four. Move the rocker arms back into position and tighten their mounting bolts with a socket wrench. Replace the covers for the cylinder heads, and install the spark plugs.

8

Replace the components you removed in step three if you removed the left cylinder head. Replace the components you removed in step two if you removed the right cylinder head. Refill the radiator with coolant, and attach the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

The Chevrolet Sprint was designed with fuel economy in mind. The manufacturer developed the Sprint with only a three-cylinder engine, while the competition was designing cars with four cylinders. This gave Chevrolet an advantage over the foreign carmakers for a while as they scurried to develop vehicles to compete. If your Chevy Sprint has an overheating issue, you can troubleshoot it yourself before you take it to your mechanic, possibly saving some money.

Instructions

1

Make sure your Chevy Sprint is completely cool before you start troubleshooting.

2

Pull the hood latch and open it up. Find the radiator in front of the engine -- it has a cap on it that says "radiator."

3

Remove the radiator cap by flipping up the pressure release tab on the top of the cap and turning the cap counterclockwise. Set the cap to the side.

4

Look inside the radiator through where the cap was. Make sure that the water level is to the top. Your Sprint can overheat if there is not enough coolant in the radiator.

5

Start up your Sprint engine. Make sure the radiator cap is still off the radiator. Look inside the top of the radiator and watch the coolant. Let the engine warm up. When the engine is warm, the water inside the radiator should drop down and then start to circulate. If you do not see the water level change or start to circulate, it is a sign that you have an issue with your thermostat. The thermostat is located in the housing cover where the top radiator hose is connected. You can follow the top radiator directly to this housing. If the thermostat is not opening when the engine gets warm, then your Sprint engine is certain to overheat . A bad thermostat is the most common reason why a Chevrolet Sprint will overheat.

6

Listen for the cooling fan to come on. When the engine reaches a certain level of warmth, the electric cooling fan will come on to cool down the engine. The cooling fan is mounted on the back side of the radiator. If the fan does not come on when the engine gets warm, then your Chevy Sprint engine will overheat.

7

Check for coolant leaks. Look on the ground under the engine. Look at the radiator and all the hoses coming in and out of the radiator. If you see any steam or leaks, this is the cause of the overheating problem. Replace any leaking hoses or leaking parts. The cooling system must always be pressurized to work properly.

Manufactured from 1967 to 1998, the 350 c.i.d. engine became Chevrolets main eight cylinder small-block after it retired the earlier 283 and 327 engines. Long respected for its performance, reliability and interchangeability, the Chevy 350 is very common and easily identified.

General

One of the most popular Chevrolet engines ever produced, the 350 was used in everything from Corvettes to school buses. Standard Chevy identification techniques may be used to identify the engine, such as the orange paint and GM markings, but only the casting number gives exact identification.

Block Identification

To identify positively a Chevrolet 350 or any Chevrolet small-block, the engine casting number must be located and checked against a code chart. Chevrolet small-block casting numbers are located on the passenger side of the engine block on a machined pad in front of the cylinder head. The numbers often are hidden by the alternator.

Casting Codes

The casting numbers are a combination of numbers and letters, eight digits long. They give manufacture date and location in the pix, and the suffix, a series of three letters, gives the engine specifics. For example, casting code V0101CML reveals the suffix as CML. When matched to a chart, the code will reveal that the engine was a 350 built for a 1975 Camaro with 155 horsepower.

The Lumina was manufactured by Chevrolet and first introduced on the North American market in 1990. It featured three different body types. Chevrolet Luminas engines were equipped with multiport fuel injection system that required a special intake manifold. The intake manifold is designed to distribute the air fuel mixture in the engine. As the fluids pass constantly through the intake manifold, the gaskets get corroded and require to be replaced.

Instructions

Removal

1

Disconnect the batterys negative (ground) cable to prevent injury. Disconnect the vacuum hose connection from the throttle body air inlet duct. Disconnect the wiring harness connection from the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor in the throttle body air inlet duct. Remove the throttle body air inlet duct. Drain the engine coolant from the cooling system.

2

Remove the accelerator control and cruise control cables with bracket from the throttle body. Remove the wiring harness from the retainer. Disconnect the throttle position (TP) sensor and idle air control (IAC) valve wiring harness connectors from the throttle body. Disconnect the front spark plug wires.

3

Disconnect the wiring harness attachment clips of camshaft position sensor (CMP). Remove the nut from the coolant pipe to the throttle body. Disconnect the thermostat bypass pipe coolant hoses from the throttle body. Remove the engine mount struts. Disconnect the right spark plug wire retaining clips. Remove the spark plug wires at the coil pack.

4

Remove the ignition coil bracket with the coils, the purge solenoid, the vacuum canister solenoid, the vacuum lines, and the electrical connections. Disconnect the vacuum hose at the manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor. Remove the Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) sensor and the bracket. Disconnect the emission control vacuum harness. Disconnect the vacuum booster hose, automatic transaxle vacuum modulator hose, heather and air conditioning vacuum source hose and fuel pressure hose from the intake manifold.

5

Remove the drive belt. Remove the front generator brace. Remove the rear generator brace. Remove the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve. Remove the right-hand intake manifold bolts and studs. Remove the left-hand upper intake manifold bolts. Remove the intake manifold. Remove the intake manifold gasket.

Installation

6

Install the throttle body. Lay the intake manifold gasket on the cylinder block. Position the intake manifold on the new gasket. Loosely tighten the left hand intake manifold bolts, the right hand intake manifold bolts and the studs. Then, tighten the intake manifold bolts and studs 18 foot-pounds of torque.

7

Install the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve. Install the rear generator brace and the front generator brace. Connect the vacuum hose connections to the intake manifold. Those connections include the vacuum booster hose, automatic transaxle vacuum modulator hose, heather and air conditioning vacuum source hose and the fuel regulator hose.

8

Plug in the emission control vacuum harness. Install the manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor and bracket. Connect the vacuum hose at the manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor and the intake manifold. Install the ignition coil bracket with the coils, the purge solenoid, the vacuum canister solenoid, and the spark plug wire retainers. Connect the plug wires to the ignition module. Connect the vacuum lines, and the electrical connections. Return the engine to the proper position.

9

Install the engine mount struts. Connect the thermostat bypass pipe and the coolant hoses to the throttle body. Connect the camshaft position (CMP) sensor wiring harness, spark plug wire harness and engine wiring harness. Install the throttle position (TP) sensor and idle air control (IAC) valve.

10

Install the accelerator control and cruise control cables with bracket to the throttle body. Connect the wiring harness to the retainer. Fill the cooling system with engine coolant. Install the throttle body air inlet duct. Connect the wiring harness connection to the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor in the throttle body air inlet duct and then connect the vacuum hose connection to the throttle body air inlet duct. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

The Chevrolet Tahoe is a full-size sport utility vehicle, or SUV, thats virtually identical to the GMC Yukon. A 1997 Chevrolet Tahoe most often has an 8-cylinder, 5.7-liter engine with 2-wheel or 4-wheel drive. This vehicle has sequential fuel injection, which requires a fuel pump that delivers fuel to the injectors at high pressure. The fuel pump in a 1997 Chevrolet Tahoe is in the fuel tank, so you must remove the fuel tank to replace the fuel pump.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable to the batterys negative terminal with a socket wrench. Loosen the filler cap on the fuel tank to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank. Drain the fuel tank by siphoning the fuel into a gasoline container with a hose. Raise the rear of the vehicle with a jack and support it on jack stands. Release the clamps on the hoses for the filler neck and vent tube of the fuel tank. Support the fuel tank with jack stands and detach the support straps for the fuel tank. Lower the fuel tank slightly and disconnect the electrical connections and hose on the fuel tank. Remove the fuel tank from the vehicle.

2

Turn the retaining ring on the fuel sender assembly counterclockwise with tool J-39765. Remove the retaining ring. Lift the fuel sender assembly out of the fuel tank and pull the fuel pump into the attaching hose while holding the bottom support of the fuel pump in place. Discard the O-ring on the fuel tank.

3

Install the new fuel pump into the attaching hose of the fuel sender assembly. Use care to avoid bending the fuel strainer since this will restrict fuel flow. Place a new O-ring on the fuel tank and install the fuel sender assembly into the fuel tank.

4

Place the locking ring on the fuel sender assembly and turn it clockwise with tool J-39765 until the ring locks into place.

5

Install the fuel tank by reversing step 1. Pressurize the fuel system by turning the ignition on for two seconds and turning it off for 10 seconds. Turn the ignition on and check the fuel lines for leaks.

The small-block Chevy is a compact eight-cylinder engine of cast-iron construction. Although Chevrolet used a V8 engine briefly in the 1920s, most of their cars from the late 1920s through the early 1950s were powered exclusively by inline six-cylinder engines. When virtually every other American car maker had an eight-cylinder engine to offer, the Chevy still had its six. All that changed in 1955 when the small-block V8 was introduced. This engine was designed with larger versions in mind, and several different displacements were manufactured until the 1990s, when the small-block was replaced with more modern engines. All parts of the small-block are fastened together and tightened to a specific torque, as this keeps everything together securely.

Internal Parts

The bearing cap retaining bolts on small-blocks with two-bolt 7/16-inch main bearing caps should be tightened to 70 foot-pounds. The outer bearing bolts on four-bolt 7/16-inch bearing caps should be tightened to 65 foot-pounds, while the inner bolts should be tightened to 70 foot-pounds. All four retaining bolts on four-bolt 3/8-inch bearing caps should be tightened to 40 foot-pounds. Connecting rod bolts with a measurement of 3/8 inch should be tightened to 45 foot-pounds, while 11/32-inch connecting rods should be tightened to 35 foot-pounds. Cylinder head bolts are tightened to 65 foot-pounds, while the screw-in rocker studs need to be torqued to 50 foot-pounds. The oil pump retaining bolts should be tightened to 65 foot-pounds.

External Parts

The threads on the exhaust manifold bolts should be coated with an anti-seize lubricant and tightened to 25 foot-pounds. The intake manifold gets tightened to 25 foot-pounds. The transmission bell housing bolts should be tightened to the block at 25 foot-pounds each. The center bolt on the harmonic balancer needs to be tightened to 60 foot-pounds. Spark plugs get torqued down to 20 foot-pounds. The flex plate on automatic transmission-equipped vehicles and the flywheel on manual transmission-equipped vehicles both get tightened to 60 foot-pounds.

Sheet Metal Parts

The small-block Chevys oil pan retaining bolts need to be tightened to 12 foot-pounds. The bolts attaching the timing cover to the front of the engine block get tightened to six foot-pounds, while the valve cover bolts require a torque of only three foot-pounds.

Manufacturing defects in 1987 Chevrolet Camaros have led to recalls due to problems with the vehicles fuel system, exterior lighting and seat belts. According to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), these safety issues could cause personal injury or property damage.

Fuel System

In 2006, NHTSA announced a recall of certain 1984-1992 model year Camaros to replace defective Fram fuel filters with part number G3727. A malfunction in the seals of some of these filters may cause a fuel leak, which could lead to a fire.

Exterior Lighting

In 2006, NHTSA announced a recall of certain model year 1985-2002 Camaros with combination replacement lamps built by Pro-A Motors due to a defect that could lead to a crash. The amber lectors on these headlights, turn signals and corner lamps are too dim to comply with federal safety standards.

Seat Belts

In 2009, General Motors recalled some of its 1984-1990 Camaros to repair a seatbelt-buckle defect that could fail to protect vehicle occupants in the event of an accident. The plastic portions of these buckles may melt in the sun, causing them not to latch.

You can replace the vent weatherstripping on your 57 Chevy right from your home garage, saving yourself some money. Weatherstripping is important because it keeps out wind, moisture, rain and snow via a tight seal between your window and door. Vent weatherstripping keeps the elements out until it becomes cracked with age. You only need a few inexpensive items that can be purchased from any auto parts store to complete this job.

Instructions

1

Check all of the windows weatherstripping by rolling down the windows. If the weatherstripping is cracked or hard, it needs to be replaced.

2

Use a utility knife and needle-nose pliers to remove the old, cracked, brittle weatherstripping. Do this by cutting underneath the weatherstripping with the utility knife and pulling the stripping out of the channel with needle-nose pliers.

3

Scrape any old glue off the door frame, using the utility knife.

4

Spread a thin layer of glue on the door frame and the mounting side of the weatherstripping. Let the glue dry until it is tacky to the touch. Slide the weatherstripping into the door frame using the needle-nose pliers. Use your fingers to press the two glued surfaces together. Repeat for the other side of the door frame.

5

Repeat steps 2 through 4 for the remaining windows that need weatherstripping.

6

Wait 30 minutes, then caully roll up the windows. Allow to dry for at least 24 hours before rolling windows down.

Although not as important as the headlights, a vehicles fog lights still make driving safer and easier when there is a lot of fog in the area. When there is a malfunction with the fog lights, they must be replaced as quickly as possible. Thankfully, replacing a fog light on the 2005 Chevrolet Monte Carlo is a simple process that does not take much time.

Instructions

1

Turn off the Monte Carlo and put on the gloves. Whenever working in or under a vehicle, gloves should be worn for safety reasons.

2

Place the jack under the vehicle and raise it to a comfortable level. Whereas the headlight assembly is accessed through the hood of the car, the fog lights can only be reached from underneath.

3

Unplug the electrical wire connection that is connected to the fog lights. The connection is located under the vehicle, plugged into the fog lights. This will allow you access to the fog light assembly.

4

Remove the bulb socket by twisting and pulling it from out of the fog light assembly. Remove the old bulb by pulling it out of the assembly.

5

Insert the replacement bulb into the assembly and lock it into place. Reattach the socket by twisting it back onto the fog light assembly. Reconnect the electrical wire connection to the fog light assembly and lower the Monte Carlo back onto the ground.

The Chevrolet Tahoe is an SUV introduced in 1995. The lights on your Tahoe must all be in working order for your safety as well as for fellow drivers; if not, you may be pulled over by your highway patrol and issued a fix-it ticket. Replacing any of the lights is a simple process, requiring nothing more than a screwdriver and a replacement bulb. Although the bulb types differ for each light, they are all available at most automotive parts suppliers.

Instructions

Headlights

1

Turn off the Tahoes engine and open the hood. Remove the two pins from the top of the headlamp assembly by twisting them inwards and pulling them out.

2

Pull the headlamp assembly out of the vehicle and unplug the electrical wire. The larger socket is the low-beam headlight and uses 9006-type bulbs. The smaller socket is the high-beam headlight and uses 9005-type bulbs. Rotate the desired bulb counterclockwise and remove it from the assembly.

3

Push the new bulb into the assembly and rotate it clockwise to lock it into place. Reconnect the electrical wire to the rear of the assembly and place it back into the vehicle.

4

Reinstall and tighten the two pins above the headlamp assembly. Close the hood.

Front Turn Signal, Side Marker and Daytime Running Lamps

5

Remove the headlamp assembly by following the steps outlined in Section 1. This will allow access to the turn signal assembly. Press down on the retainer clip to release the assembly.

6

Pull the assembly out of the vehicle. The smallest socket is the side marker lamp and uses 3457A-type bulbs. The largest socket is the turn signal lamp and uses 3457A-type bulbs. The remaining socket is the daytime running lamp and uses 4114K-type bulbs. Press the locking release lever on the desired socket to release it then rotate it counterclockwise to remove it from the assembly.

7

Pull the old bulb out of the socket and place the new bulb into the socket. Place the socket back into the assembly and rotate it clockwise to tighten it.

8

Reinstall the turn signal assembly into the vehicle. Reconnect the electrical wire. Place the headlamp assembly back into the vehicle, making sure to reconnect the electrical wire and reinstall the two pins. Close the hood.

Side Identification Marker Lamps

9

Locate the lap gasket near the rear wheel. Pull back the edge of the gasket in order to expose the service slot.

10

Push into the slot with a screwdriver to release the side marker assembly. Pull the housing out and unplug the lamp assembly harness. Remove the old bulb and place the replacement bulb into the vehicle. The side marker lamps use 194-type bulbs.

11

Reattach the lamp assembly harness and snap it into the housing. Reinstall the lamp assembly into the vehicle.

Roof Marker Lamps

12

Use a screwdriver to remove the six screws on the front of the roof marker assembly. This assembly is located on the top of the Tahoe. Once the screws are removed, lift off the lens from the assembly.

13

Turn the old bulb counterclockwise to remove it from the socket. The roof marker lamp uses 194-type bulbs.

14

Push a new bulb into the socket and rotate it clockwise to lock it into place.

15

Reinstall the lens and tighten all six screws.

Tail Lamps

16

Remove the two screws from the tail lamp assembly. Pull the assembly out of the vehicle.

17

Press down on the release tab and rotate the desired bulb socket counterclockwise to remove it from the assembly. The top socket contains the turn signal bulb, the middle socket contains the back-up bulb and the bottom socket contains the brake light bulb. All three lights use 3157-type bulbs.

18

Pull the old bulb straight out of the socket and replace it with a new bulb. Place the socket back into the assembly and rotate it clockwise until it clicks into place. Reinstall the tail lamp assembly and reattach the two screws.

A 350 Chevy can be any engine in a Chevrolet vehicle with a displacement of 350 cubic inches. The last version of this engine was the Vortec 5700, which appeared in full-size Chevrolet trucks from 1996 to 2002. The 350 Chevy engine used central sequential fuel injection, which fires the fuel injectors in a specific order. The installation procedure for the fuel injectors is the same for all trucks with a 350 Chevy engine made after 1998.

Instructions

1

Turn the ignition off and remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Open the filler cap on the fuel tank to release the fuel tank pressure.

2

Wrap a shop towel around the pressure fitting on the fuel rail and connect a fuel pressure gauge to the pressure fitting. Place the free end of the bleed hose of the pressure gauge into a container suitable for gasoline. Open the valve on the pressure gauge to relieve the fuel system pressure and disconnect the fuel pressure gauge from the pressure fitting.

3

Detach the electrical connectors from the fuel pipes on the engine. Disconnect the fuel send and return lines from the fuel pipes with a socket wrench and discard the O-rings for the fuel lines. Remove the upper intake manifold from the engine with a socket wrench. Release the lock tabs on the fuel meter and disconnect the fuel meter from the engine.

4

Remove the retaining nuts on the lower hold-down plate for the fuel injectors with a socket wrench and disconnect the hold-down plate. Pull the nozzle of each fuel injector down as you push a small pry tool between the electrical terminals of the fuel injector. Pry the injector out of its socket on the fuel meter and discard the O-ring on the fuel injector.

5

Lubricate the O-rings for the fuel injectors with engine oil and mount the new O-rings to the new fuel injector. Install the new fuel injector to its socket on the fuel meter. Attach the lower hold-down plate and tighten its retaining nuts to 27 inch-pounds with a torque wrench.

6

Connect the fuel meter to the intake manifold and tighten the retaining bolts to 88 inch-pounds. Attach the lock tabs for the fuel meter bracket to secure the fuel meter in place. Connect new electrical connectors for the fuel injectors. Mount new O-rings on the fuel lines and attach the fuel lines to the fuel pipes on the engine. Tighten the retaining nuts for the fuel lines to 22 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

7

Turn the ignition on for two seconds, then turn it off for 10 seconds to pressurize the fuel system. Turn the ignition back on and correct any fuel leaks.

The 1969 Chevrolet truck has two headlights. Theore, each headlight will have two filaments built in; one for the high beam and one for low beam. Headlight failure was prevalent on some early vehicles. The dimmer switch on these vehicles mount on the floor and exposes the wiring and connections to an abundance of moisture and corrosion. Another issue was the actual headlight switch or the plug that connected to it would heat up and the connection would fail. Headlight failure is unacceptable, and all issues should be addressed and corrected to maintain safe driving.

Instructions

1

Put on safety glasses. Remove at least one headlight bulb, using a screwdriver to remove the hold-down ring around the headlight, and test it. Connect a jumper wire between one of the parallel prongs of the headlight and the positive terminal on a 12-volt battery. Connect a second jumper wire between the negative battery terminal or a grounded engine component and the single prong below the two parallel prongs. If the light is bad, replace it.

2

Inspect the entire fuse box for any blown or discolored fuses. The fuse box on a 69 Chevy truck is located under the dash on the drivers side of the truck. The 69 Chevy truck uses a glass tube fuse.

3

Inspect the ground wire, which bolts to the radiator support behind the headlight socket on most older vehicles, for a good connection. If the connection is burnt or discolored, unbolt it with a wrench and clean it with a wire brush. Most models have a small black wire that mounts to the chassis with a 5/16-inch self-tapping metal screw.

4

Charge the Chevy trucks battery with a charger or by running the engine for 15 minutes. If you are charging the battery, the red terminal of the charger should be connected to the positive terminal, and the black terminal connects to the negative terminal of the battery.

5

Pull the headlight switch to full-on position. If the switch is pulled out halfway, it lights the parking lights only. Click the dimmer switch several times; take notice as to whether the high-beam indicator lamp in the dash lights up. If the high-beam indicator lights up, test the dimmer switch.

6

Roll back the carpet or floor mat around the dimmer switch, found on the truck floor. Locate and remove the connector plug. Use two jumper wires and join all three wires of the dimmer switch plug together. If the headlights come on, replace the dimmer switch. If lights do not come on, check the plug with a 12-volt test light for a hot wire. One wire in the plug should light the test light unless the headlight switch is bad. Be sure the test light is grounded to a metal ground.

7

Remove the headlight switch. The main mechanism of the switch is behind the dashboard and the pull knob is on the outside of the dashboard. From under the dashboard, press the spring-loaded tab, located on the switch mechanism, and rotate the headlight switch to the left to activate the interior lights. The switch must be rotated to pull the knob and rod out of the switch mechanism. Unscrew the thin nut on the front side of the dashboard that holds the switch in the dash with a box-end wrench. Drop the switch below the dashboard and unplug it.

8

Probe the headlight connector plug with a 12-volt DC test light until the hot wire is found. If no hot wire is found, check the plug that comes through the cowl near the fuse box on the cowl side of the cab. Check the plug and headlight switch for heat related failure, melted or discolored wires.

9

Inspect the wiring harness plugs, on the firewall side of the cab, that go through the firewall, for burnt or discolored wires. These wires are located around the area where the steering shaft comes through the cowl.

10

Trace the wiring harness from the headlight bulbs or headlamps back to the cowl, checking for cracked, frayed or burnt wires. If any damaged wires are found, replace or repair the wiring harness.

The sway bar on a Chevy Colorado pickup truck connects the front left and front right suspension together. When the vehicle is turning, the sway bar minimizes side-to-side lean as well as keeps the vehicle more stable. This sway bar connects to the lower control arm on each side via a sway bar end link. These links can wear down over time; and when they do, the side-to-side lean can become almost unbearable. Before you can replace the end links, you must first remove them from the truck.

Instructions

1

Park the Colorado on a level, paved surface and step on the parking brake pedal to set the parking brake. Lift the front of the truck with a jack and put jack stands below the frame. Lower the truck so that it is supported on the stands.

2

Remove the lug nuts on the front wheels with a tire iron then pull them off the truck. Locate the sway bar end links, which go up and down parallel to the front shock absorber and connect the lower control arm to the sway bar.

3

Unbolt the upper sway bar end link from the sway bar with an open-end wrench. Repeat this for the bottom link in the sway bar. Do the same on the other side of the vehicle, then pull the links away from the sway bar and the lower control arm.

If you have allowed your Chevy Blazer time to warm up but still do not feel any heat in the passenger compartment there is a good chance that you have a faulty heater core. Because the heater core is located against the firewall, many mechanics charge quite a bit of labor for this repair. If you want to save the majority of the repair estimate, this is a job that you can complete yourself in about an hour.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the battery cable from the negative terminal on your Blazers battery. You need to do this any time you are completing a repair on your vehicle to reduce the chance of receiving an electrical shock.

2

Place a bucket under the radiator and drain the coolant from the cooling system. Typically, the drain plug is located at the bottom center of the radiator.

3

Remove the coolant hoses leading from the heater core to the engine. These are on the engine compartment side of the heater core. Plug the tubes of the heater core with a shop rag to reduce the chances of spilling coolant inside the vehicle when you remove the heater core.

4

Remove the heater core case located inside the passenger compartment. This case is located under the dashboard, just to the right of center of the vehicle. To do this, turn the screws connecting the heater core cover to the cowl counterclockwise and remove them.

5

Remove the support brackets from the heater core and remove the core from the passenger compartment side of the firewall.

6

Install the new heater core into the firewall. Be caul when you insert the tubes through the firewall so you dont bend them.

7

Install the support brackets and the heater core cover. Replace all of the retaining screws and turn them clockwise to secure.

8

Connect all hoses leading from the engine to the heater core inside the engine comparment, fill the radiator with coolant and reconnect the negative battery terminal.

The service engine light illuminates on your 2006 Chevrolet when it is time to have a regularly scheduled oil change or tune up. The OBD, or On-Board Diagnostics computer, stores the codes from the vehicles sensors. An OBD scanner tool can be used to read the codes and tell you exactly what is wrong with the vehicle. You can purchase an OBD scanner and do this yourself at home or you can take your car to your local auto parts retailer and they will scan and diagnose it for you for free. Either way, make sure you have the servicing done to your vehicle before you reset the service engine light. If not, the light will just keep coming back on.

Instructions

1

Pop the hood of the Chevy and loosen the nut that keeps the negative battery cable clamp in place on the negative side of the battery. This is known as the retaining nut. Remove the cable clamp from the terminal.

2

Wait at least 15 minutes. Put the clamp back on the negative side of the terminal. Always take care to never allow the negative cable clamp to touch the positive side of the battery terminal.

3

Put the key into the ignition and start the engine. Look on the dash board to see that the service engine light has turned off. If not, repeat the above steps again. Sometimes you have to do it several times for the light to turn off.

During the life of your Trailblazer, the bulbs in the headlight may burn out and need to be replaced. In order to replace these bulbs, the headlight assembly needs to be removed from the front of the vehicle. Removing the headlight assembly allows you to access the bulbs, which are connected to the sockets on the electrical connectors. Before starting this project, the bulbs will need to be purchased from an auto supply store.

Instructions

1

Open the drivers side door and pull the hood release lever to release the hood. Lift the hood up and set the support bar.

2

Find the snap clips that are used to secure the grill to the front of the vehicle. Pry the retainer clips with the flat head screwdriver to release them. Pull the grill off of the vehicle.

3

Find the retainer clip that is located in the upper left or right of the headlight. Push up on the retainer clip with the flat head screwdriver. Look under the fender, beneath the headlight, and locate the second retainer clip. Push this retainer clip up with the screwdriver.

4

Press the release tab that is on the back of the headlight assembly. Pull the electrical connector out of the headlight. Pull the headlight assembly out and set it on a bench or table.

5

Pull off the two rubber caps on the back of the headlight assembly to expose the headlight bulbs. Turn the socket counterclockwise and pull the bulb out of the headlight. Lift up the tab on the electrical harness and then pull the bulb out of the socket.

6

Insert a new bulb into the socket and then place the bulb back into the headlight. Turn the socket to the right or clockwise to lock it in place. Set the rubber caps back in place over the electrical connector.

7

Set the headlight back in place and then reconnect the electrical connector. Push the upper and lower retainer clips back in place to secure the headlight.

8

Set the grill back in place and then push on it firmly to secure the retainer clips to the frame.

Replacing the serpentine belt on your 1990 Silverado pickup will help prevent an accidental belt failure when you least expect it. The belt turns every accessory on the front of the engine, including the water pump and alternator. If the belt breaks, the truck will overheat and lose electrical power for the ignition system. Check the belt for damage every time you change the oil in your truck. Replace the belt at the first sign of a problem.

Instructions

1

Raise the hood of your truck and prop it open. Locate the negative cable on the battery. Remove the retaining bolt with a wrench. Lift the cable off the terminal and set it aside.

2

Locate the serpentine belt tensioner on the front of the engine. Place a socket and breaker bar on the tensioner center bolt. Rotate it counterclockwise to loosen the belt. Remove the belt. Rotate the tensioner back to the home position. Discard the old belt.

3

Install a new belt over the pulleys on the front of the engine. Leave it off the tensioner for now. Routing the belt correctly is important, so check the diagram on the radiator support under the hood to verify the belt path.

4

Rotate the tensioner counterclockwise with the breaker bar and socket. Install the belt over the tensioner pulley and rotate the tensioner clockwise to tighten the belt. Remove the socket and breaker bar from the engine compartment.

5

Reattach the negative cable to the negative battery terminal. Reattach the retaining bolt and tighten it with a wrench. Close the hood of the truck.

If you are driving down the road in your Chevy Tahoe and you notice a light on the dash for "tire failure" or "low tire pressure" you might become alarmed. Today more and more vehicles are being manufactured with tire pressure monitor systems called TPMS. The TPMS was designed for driving safety because most people never take the time to even look at their tires or check the air pressure. Low air pressure in a tire is the leading cause of tire failure and can lead to accidents. If you have a TPMS monitor that is not working properly, you can troubleshoot it with a few easy steps.

Instructions

1

Walk around your Tahoe and look at each tire to see if one of them looks low.

2

Slide the air pressure gauge over each valve stem to check each tire and make sure that it is inflated to the proper psi. The proper psi is noted on the car door. Never go by the maximum inflation noted on the tire. You must always go by what is indicated on the car door. Improper inflation will cause the TPMS unit to flag a problem.

3

Take your TPMS computer scanner out of the box and become familiar with the settings. You will need to push the buttons on the front to find your make and model of car. Press the button to enter the scan mode and walk around to each tire. Press the button at each tire until you get an indication that the scanner cannot find the TPMS unit. This is the unit that needs to be changed.

You should replace the windshield on your 98 Chevy Silverado 1500 when it has a crack in it that is longer than 6 inches. Cracks of that length compromise the integrity of the windshield. You may also wish to replace your windshield if it has chips and smaller cracks in it because these may eventually grow in size. Besides protecting you from debris, a windshield can help keep you from being thrown from your Chevy in the event of an accident. The windshield also helps the airbags deploy properly and it prevents the roof from caving in if the vehicle rolls over. If you can find a windshield from a 1998 Chevy Silverado 1500 thats in good condition from an auto wrecking yard, you will probably save yourself some money.

Instructions

1

Unscrew the rear view mirror screw and slip the mirror out.

2

Remove each windshield wiper by lifting them up and prying up the base with a large flathead screwdriver. Put the screwdriver between the retaining nut and the arm of each wiper. Move the arm back and forth as you pry to remove the arm. Set the windshield wiper arms aside.

3

Tape over all dashboard vents to protect them from small pieces of glass.

4

Remove the rubber gasket from around the windshield using a razor knife. Try not to touch the windshield glass with the knife. Push the windshield out of the vehicle from inside the Chevy as your assistant catches it from the outside.

5

Clean the frame, the gasket and the dashboard with a clean wet cloth. Leave the replacement gasket in a warm, sunny place for a few hours to make it more flexible.

6

Place a layer of sealant on the gaskets bottom part in the channel. Slip the gasket onto the windshield, taking care to put the side with the slit facing outside of the vehicle.

7

Spread petroleum jelly into the gaskets outer groove and line a heavy nylon cord around the groove beginning with the bottom center part of the windshield and going all the way around. Leave a foot of cord loose and dangling down at each end.

8

Place the windshield into the windshield frame from outside of the Silverado, making sure you leave the loose rope hanging inside the vehicle.

9

Tug slowly on the cord to pull the gasket inside the vehicle. Have your assistant push the gasket to the outside of the windshield frame while you are pulling from the inside. Allow the sealant to cure for 24 hours before driving.