So Fix it

The Acura TL is a luxury sports car in production since 1996. The 2002 model is a second generation Acura, which includes the 1999 through 2003 models. The standard engine for all second generation Acuras in North America is a six-cylinder, 3.2-liter engine with a double overhead camshaft. The timing belt synchronizes the crankshaft with the camshafts, so the cylinder valves open and close at the right time.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable for the negative battery terminal and the ignition coil cover with a socket wrench.

2

Place a cushion such as a wooden board on top of a floor jack. Place the floor jack under the oil pan, and raise the vehicle. Remove the front wheel assemblies with a lug wrench. Disconnect the splash shield under the vehicle and remove the accessory drive belts from their respective pulleys.

3

Lower the vehicle with the floor jack and raise it slightly to take the weight of the engine off the engine mounts. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the side mount on the front of the engine, and remove the side mount. Remove the bolt for the dipstick tube with a socket wrench, and detach the tube from the engine.

4

Rotate the crankshaft clockwise to align the white timing mark on the crankshaft pulley with the pointer on the lower rear timing belt cover. The timing marks on the camshaft pulleys must also align with their respective timing marks on the upper rear timing belt cover.

5

Hold the crankshaft pulley in place with Holder Attachment Tool 07MAB-PY3010A. Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt with a socket wrench and a 19mm socket. Pull the crankshaft pulley from its shaft with Holder Attachment Tool 07MAB-PY3010A.

6

Disconnect a bolt for a battery clamp with a socket wrench. Grind a 45-degree bevel on the threaded end of the bolt. Screw the bolt into the hole in the right cylinder head by hand to hold the adjuster for the timing belt in place. Disconnect the engine mount bracket. Turn the mounting bolt for the idler pulley five turns counterclockwise with a socket wrench, and detach the timing belt.

7

Disconnect the spark plugs. Turn the crankshaft sprocket clockwise to align the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket with the timing mark on the oil pump. The timing mark on the camshaft pulleys must also align with their respective timing marks on the rear timing belt covers.

8

Disconnect the battery clamp bolt with a socket wrench and replace it into its original hole. Remove the timing belt tensioner and place it into a soft-jawed vise with the maintenance bolt pointed up. Remove the maintenance bolt with a socket wrench. Place Stopper Tool 14540-P8A-A01 onto the tensioner to maintain the tension setting. Turn the screw inside the maintenance hole clockwise with a flat-blade screwdriver to compress the bottom of the tensioner.

9

Replace the gasket for the maintenance bolt on the timing belt tensioner and tighten the bolt to 6 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Install the tensioner and tighten its mounting bolts to 33 ft. lbs.

10

Mount the new timing belt to the crankshaft sprocket, idler pulley, left camshaft sprocket, water pump pulley, right camshaft sprocket and adjusting pulley in that order. Remove Stopper Tool 14540-P8A-A01 from the timing belt tensioner.

11

Install the bolts for the engine side mount with a torque wrench. Tighten the No. 10 bolts to 33 ft. lbs., and tighten the No. 6 bolts to 104 in. lbs. Connect the timing belt covers with a socket wrench. Install the crankshaft pulley with Holder Attachment tool 07MAB-PY3010A. Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt with a torque wrench and a 19mm socket to 181 ft. lbs.

12

Turn the crankshaft five complete turns clockwise to position the timing belt, and align the timing marks. Connect the dipstick tube, accessory drive belts, splash shield and front wheel assemblies. Lower the vehicle and replace the ignition coil cover. Attach the cable to the negative battery terminal.

If you plan to remove the oil seal in the rear axle housing of your Jeep Grand Cherokee, it helps to have a seal puller. Rental pullers are available at many auto parts stores and will help prevent damage to the pinion shaft. The oil seal is in the housing where the pinion shaft passes through the differential and keeps the oil from running out of your axle. Replacement seals are available from Jeep or most auto parts stores.

Instructions

1

Raise the rear of your Jeep with a jack and support the truck with a set of jack stands under the rear axle. Locate the pinion yoke, where the axle and driveshaft meet. Place an alignment mark on the yoke and the driveshaft with a paint pen for use later.

2

Remove the four 10-millimeter bolts from the pinion yoke with a wrench, then separate the drive shaft from the yoke. Caully set the drive shaft aside.

3

Locate the pinion nut in the center of the pinion yoke. Install a large socket and breaker bar on the nut and rotate it counterclockwise. Remove the nut and washer from the shaft.

4

Remove the pinion yoke from the shaft with a yoke puller. If you do not have a puller, you can rent one from many auto parts stores. If you cannot find a puller, heating the yoke with an oxyacetylene torch will allow it to swell and come loose. Caully slide it off the shaft.

5

Place an oil drain pan under the pinion shaft to catch any oil that might seep from the differential when you remove the seal.

6

Place the seal puller over the shaft and engage the arms with the inside edge of the seal. Turn the puller counterclockwise with a socket and ratchet, pulling the seal from the bore.

The belt that operates the engine accessories on the Chevrolet Aveo is a single accessory belt. The accessory belt routes around all of the accessory pulleys at once. As the engine runs, the crankshaft turns the belt around all of the pulleys. This process makes it possible for the single belt to operate each of the accessories at the same time. If the belt begins to fray or crack, replace it with a new belt before the belt breaks. If the belt breaks, all of the engine accessories will stop working.

Instructions

1

Park the Chevrolet Aveo, and open the hood. Turn the steering wheel to the far right, and turn the engine off. This will give you enough room to access the belt tensioner pulley from the front passenger side wheel well. Set the parking brake.

2

Locate the belt routing diagram on the top of the fan shroud. You will use the routing instructions from this diagram to route the new belt around all of the engine accessories. Lower the hood.

3

Jack the front end of the Chevrolet Aveo up, and slide the jack stands under the proper front jacking points. Lower the car onto the top of the stands.

4

Move to the front passenger side wheel well. Remove the plastic guard from the back of the wheel well by removing the 10-mm bolts and nuts with a ratchet and a 10-mm socket. Pull the guard out of the wheel well, and place it on the ground.

5

Locate the belt tensioner near the bottom center of the engine. The tensioner has a pulley attached to the bottom of the tensioner arm. Use a breaker bar and a 14-mm socket to turn the tensioner.

6

Rotate the tensioner clockwise from the bolt head in the middle of the tensioner pulley with a breaker bar and a 14-mm socket. Once the tension is off of the belt, slide the belt off of the tensioner pulley and the other accessory pulleys. Pull the belt out through the wheel well.

7

Route the new belt through the wheel well and around each of the engine accessories as directed by the belt routing diagram.

8

Rotate the tensioner clockwise with the breaker bar and 14-mm socket again. Slide the new belt around the tensioner pulley, and release the breaker bar. Pull the breaker bar and socket off of the tensioner and out through the wheel well. Inspect the belt to ensure it is inside of each pulley.

9

Crank the engine, and inspect the new belt to make sure that it stays seated inside of each pulley. Turn the engine off. Reinstall the guard to the back of the wheel well, and tighten the bolt and nuts with the ratchet and 10-mm socket.

10

Jack the Chevrolet Aveo back up and remove the jack stands. Lower the car to the ground and remove the jack.

You can adjust the parking brake on your 1995 Ford Mustang right from your driveway or garage. Doing so will save you time and money. You can test whether or not your parking brake needs an adjustment by positioning it downhill and trying to hold the vehicle in place using only the parking brake. If it doesnt hold and the Mustang starts to slip, you need to adjust it. The good news is that it takes only one simple tool that you probably already have at home.

Instructions

1

Find the center console cover and remove it by pressing the release levers on the sides and pulling up on it. This is located between the front passengers seat and the drivers seat.

2

Lift up the parking brake handle four clicks.

3

Find the adjuster nut at the end of the cable rod. Loosen the nut with the pliers but take care that the nut doesnt fall off.

4

Lower the parking brake lever all the way. Turn the nut with the pliers until it is very close to the parking brake handle.

5

Lift up the parking brake handle to its highest position, then lower it all the way to the lowest position. Do this four times. This will set the brake adjustment.

6

Put the center console cover back in place.

7

Test the parking brake adjustment by positioning the vehicle on a downward facing slope and try to hold the Mustang in place using only the parking brake. If it holds the vehicle in place, then you have done the adjustment correctly.

There are a variety of components in the emission control system of modern automobiles, one of which is the Oxygen (O2) sensor. It measures the amount of oxygen present in the engine exhaust. The O2 sensor is linked to the Lexus SC400s computer, which then makes adjustments to the fuel/air mixture as the engine is running. This helps the engine run at peak efficiency, reducing exhaust pollution. The O2 sensor requires periodic replacement. Many owners can do the job themselves.

Instructions

1

Park your Lexus SC400. Set the parking brake, and open the engine hood. Let the engine cool completely before proceeding.

2

Locate the O2 sensor. Its in the lower engine area on the passenger side, threaded into the exhaust manifold.

3

Remove the wire from the sensor. Spray some anti-seize spray at the bottom of the sensor where it goes into the manifold. Let the fluid penetrate for a few minutes before proceeding.

4

Remove the sensor with the appropriate size socket and ratchet. Rotate the sensor counter-clockwise to loosen.

5

Install the new sensor into the hole and tighten firmly. Attach the wire and the job is finished.

The fuel pump to your Saturn is what pressurizes the gasoline in the fuel tank and sends it to the fuel injectors and then to the engine to burn. If you are experiencing problems while driving your Saturn, such as sudden bursts of acceleration when pressing on the gas pedal steady or if the fuel pump is making noise and/or leaking, then the pump may be faulty and need replacing. This is a task that requires additional and more advanced knowledge about automotive repair, specifically in fuel and exhaust systems.

Instructions

Removing the Fuel Pump/Level Sensor Module

1

Relieve your Saturns fuel pressure system. Remove the fuel cap to equalize the pressure in the fuel tank.

2

Remove the negative cable from the battery.

3

Raise your Saturn with the jack and support it with jack stands.

4

Remove the fuel tank from under your Saturn. The tank must be as empty as possible, which may require some siphoning (with a siphoning kit).

5

Pinch together the legs of the retainers on the supply and return fuel lines with your needle-nose pliers. Pull the fittings from the fuel pump/level sensor module. Use a shop rag for any spilled fuel.

6

Mark on the fuel pump and on the fuel tank its exact position in the tank. Make sure these indicators align.

7

Unscrew the modules locknut counter-clockwise with your large channel locks. You may need to loosen the locknut using a hammer and a brass (not steel) punch.

8

Take out the module through the mounting hole. Be caul not to abruptly pull on the module, potentially breaking off the float or float arm into the fuel tank.

9

Check the O-ring seal on the mounting flange and replace if damaged.

Installing the New Fuel Pump/Level Sensor Module

10

Mark the new module on the same areas you marked on the old module to erence its position in the fuel tank.

11

Install the new fuel pump/level sensor module into the mounting hole of the fuel tank with care. Do not harm the fuel inlet strainer, float arm and float while inserting the module. Line up the markings you made on the module and fuel tank.

12

Install and screw on the modules locknut. Tighten it down with your channel locks.

13

Connect the fuel supply and return lines to the module. Check that they are secure on the module by lightly twisting and tugging them.

14

Install the fuel tank back under your Saturn.

15

Pour the fuel from the gas can into the filler hole. Install and tighten the fuel cap.

16

Reconnect the negative cable on the battery.

17

Remove the jack stands and lower your Saturn.

The car alarm on your 1997 Honda CR-V can be very annoying if you are trying to replace your battery or make a repair to the vehicle. You can disable the car alarm in your 1997 Honda CR-V by taking the negative lead off of your battery. This takes the electrical power away from the alarm and leaves it dead. Once the valet switch is enabled, the car alarm will be disabled, allowing you to make your repair.

Instructions

1

Pop the hood to your Honda CR-V.

2

Locate the battery under the hood. This is to the right of the engine.

3

Determine which of the leads is the negative lead. The negative lead will have a "-" sign next to it.

4

Loosen the terminal with a socket wrench.

5

Pull the negative lead off of the battery to disable the car alarm.

You can replace the rubber gasket on your windshield from home in about a half hours time. Sometimes the rubber gasket can deteriorate over time due to age and weather. You usually dont need to remove the windshield to do this job. The gasket and molding strip are what hold the windshield in place. You just need a few items purchased from your local auto parts store to get the job done. Youll need to replace the gasket if you have a lot of condensation inside the passengers cabin which can interfere with visibility.

Instructions

1

Cut the gasket around the windshield with a razor knife. Have an assistant stand outside of the vehicle to catch the windshield as you push it from the inside out.

2

Place 1/16-inch molding cord into the new gasket and wrap it around the windshield, starting at the center of the bottom of the windshield. Wrap it around the entire edge of the windshield. Allow the ends to overlap by 3 inches. Leave a 12-inch cord hanging out. Secure the pieces that overlap with masking tape.

3

Spray the new gasket and the metallic lip of the windshield opening with a mixture of soap and water.

4

Remount the windshield into the windshield opening, bottom edge first, from the outside of the vehicle. Have your assistant get inside the vehicle while you push on the windshield from the outside. Ask your assistant to pull the end of the cord until the windshield slides into place. Use the putty knife to push the molding into the channel.

Woods and Bush Hog are separate companies that make farm implements and tractor attachments, including brush mowers that are designed to be towed behind tractors. Woods headquarters is in Oregon, Illinois. Bush Hog is located in Selma, Alabama. Changing blades on one of these mowers is both straightforward and difficult. Removing and reinstalling the blade bolt nut stumps some owners. This might help. Use a long wrench handle. Remember that torque is always expressed in foot pounds. So, an easy 45 pound pull on a 10 foot handle equals 450 foot pounds. These instructions are specific to the Bush Hog 280 Series. Some blade bolt nuts may be as small as 1 5/16 inch.

Instructions

1

Raise the Bush Hog cutter and securely lock it in position with wood blocks.

2

Remove the nuts from the blade bolts, using a 1 11/16 inch socket through the access hole in the deck. Use a socket adapter if necessary, a socket extension, a breaker bar and a steel pipe extension. Slip the steel pipe extension over the breaker bar to gain leverage. If you need to, heat the nut with a propane torch to loosen it.

3

Inspect the blade bolt shoulder for wear. Replace the blade bolt shoulder if necessary.

4

Assemble new blades to the blade holder, using blade bolts, nuts and lock washers.

5

Calculate the torque at the blade bolt nut by first measuring the distance from the torque wrench head to the handle with a steel tape. Slip a steel pipe extension of a known length over the torque wrench handle and calculate the torque using a longer handle. For example, tripling the length of the wrench triples the torque in foot pounds.

6

Tighten the nuts to 450 foot pounds of torque using a 1 11/16 inch socket, a socket extension, a 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch socket adapter and a steel pipe extension. Strike the blade bolt heads with a maul or a similar heavy hammer.

7

Retighten the blade bolts to 450 foot pounds of torque.

8

Spin the blades to ensure that they swing freely throughout an entire rotation. If the blades do not swing freely, remove them, locate the problem and repair.

9

Lower the Bush Hog.

Some questions are harder to answer than others; what is the meaning of life, why do things in movies and video games always happen in threes, and why is it so hard to find an engine mount removal procedure for a late-90s Escort or Escort ZX2? Maybe Ford thought Mazda or Kia -- who both used the "B" platform -- were supposed to cover the Escort. And probably vice-versa. Fortunately, aside from the torque specs, the actual procedure is much like the mount replacement procedures for every other four-cylinder ever produced.

Instructions

1

Place a set of chocks behind the rear wheels, set the parking brake, and lift the front end of your car just enough that you can fit under it. Youll be using your floor jack to support the engine from underneath, and youll be in a precarious position if you place the engine out of reach of the jack.

2

Identify the engine mount the you want to replace. There are four: the top motor mounts on the driver- and passenger-side of the car, and the lower front and rear motor mounts. The fact that this chassis has four motor mounts greatly simplifies the replacement procedure since either the top two or the bottom two could hypothetically support the weight of the drivetrain.

3

Slide the floor jack under the engine, and place a piece of lumber on top of the jack pad to protect the oilpan. Bias the jack toward the mount that youll be replacing. In this instance, youre not so much supporting the engine as you are keeping it from moving while you remove the mount and after you remove it. Avoid the exhaust pipe and the suspension components, and bias the jack as close to the mount as possible; just make sure that you leave enough room to access the mount itself.

4

Remove the mounts through-bolt first. Remove the nut from the bolt, and try to tap it out with the end of your wrench. If it doesnt move, then apply a little bit of upward pressure with the jack to take some of the weight off the bolt. If it proves extremely difficult, spray the bolt with some penetrating lubricant, and turn the bolt head.

5

Spray the engine mount nuts with penetrating oil if necessary, and remove them. Pull the mount off. You may find it easier, particularly on the lower mounts, to remove the corresponding bracket, and remove the two as a unit. Once you have the mount off, installation is the reverse of removal. The only major differences are that you may need to adjust the height of the engine with the jack to aid in aligning the through-bolt holes, and that you may want to clean the bolt and stud threads with solvent and use a drop of medium (blue) threadlocker for peace of mind. See the torque specs below for nut and bolt torques.

A Jeep Wrangler Sport comes with a Power Train Control Module (PCM) computer on board that diagnoses problems throughout the vehicle. When the engine warning light illuminates on the instrument panel, this is the result of a trouble code sent to the PCM. You can take the vehicle to an auto parts store to have it diagnosed for free, and then you should have the problem fixed by a mechanic. Once the problem has been rectified, you can quickly and easily reset the engine warning light.

Instructions

1

Open the hood and find the positive battery terminal. Loosen the bolt attached to the clamp with an adjustable wrench. Remove the clamp from the terminal and take care not to touch it to the negative side of the battery. Wait one minute.

2

Replace the positive clamp to the positive battery terminal and tighten the bolt with the wrench.

3

Put the key in the ignition and turn it to the "On" position for about five seconds. Turn the engine on. The engine warning light will flash and then turn off.

If you find yourself in the unfortunate situation of having to replace a car door, cost becomes a major factor. Hopefully, your insurance (or the other guys) will cover the replacement cost, not counting the deductible. The average cost of replacing a door will vary greatly depending on the model of car. Replacing a Ferrari door will certainly cost a lot more than that of a Hyundai. The other major factors in replacement cost are whom you choose to work on your car and how you acquire the replacement door.

Find It Yourself

Scouring junkyards is by far the cheapest way to go, but if this proves difficult, get in touch with a local car club. These can be found with a simple Internet search and are a great source for information regarding your specific model. Be sure to select a replacement door compatible with your vehicle. Find a door identical to yours in build and color to make for easy installation. Finding a matching door at a good price can be tedious and take time. A used car door can range from $100 for commonly-found, inexpensive older models to upwards of $500 for luxury and specialty vehicles. Remember that many models doors will be nearly impossible to find on junkyards or second-hand.

Purchase From A Body Shop

For harder-to-find models, you may have to resort to purchasing a new door from a body shop. Find a few reputable body shops in your area and inquire about their price. Be wary of any offers that seem too good to be true, as they usually are. Occasionally body shops are able to find used doors and often are willing to keep an eye out for one if they know you are looking and have time. If you are in need of a replacement car door, chances are you do not have this time and youll be stuck buying a new one. This will cost you anywhere from $400 for less expensive models to upwards of $1000 for some makes and models.

Get It From The Source

The safest method for getting exactly the car door you need is to purchase it directly from a dealership or the manufacturer. You can order the precise door you need and can sometimes even save a little by not purchasing an entire car door, but only the specific parts that have been damaged. For example, if the glass is not broken, you dont need to buy a new window. If you do replace the entire door, however, the cost of purchasing one from a dealership or manufacturer will run you at least $500 for the most common inexpensive models, and anywhere upwards of $1000 to $2000 for luxury vehicles.

Fix It Yourself

If you are comfortable working on your car, undertaking the repairs yourself enables you to save a lot of money. Find the instructions for replacing the door. These can be acquired from dealerships and sometimes your local auto parts store. Manuals can be purchased for as little as $20 to $50, and make up the bulk of your cost besides the replacement parts themselves.

Have Someone Else Do The Work

The least stressful and time-consuming way to replace your car door is to have someone else do all the work for you. Body shops will find all the necessary parts and install them. Shop around at several many body shops until you get a feel for what the price should be. Prices you get quoted may vary greatly. Be suspicious of unusually low quotes. You get what you pay for. Dealerships have a reputation for being a little more expensive, but are worth looking into as well. Besides the cost of the car door itself, labor costs at reputable businesses run upwards of $50 per hour, sometimes as high as $120 per hour. Count on your car to be in the shop for at least 2 to 3 days after the parts have arrived. Those needing paint work should figure in another day or two, as well as additional fees of around $40 per hour for the paint job.

The headlamps on your Lexus are programmed to stay on after you have exited your vehicle. This is beneficial if it is dark and you need the light from your headlamps to walk up to your house or into a public place. The default time for the headlamps to remain on is 30 seconds. You can change this value to be longer, or you can adjust it so that your headlamps do not stay on at all when turn off the engine. You will need a special diagnostic tester to perform these steps.

Instructions

1

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "On" position.

2

Connect the Lexus diagnostic tester to the DLC3 port on the vehicle. The DLC3 port is located on the lower left side panel and is clearly labeled.

3

Turn on the diagnostic tester and select the "Customize" option.

4

Select "Verify Connections," press the "Yes" button, and press "Enter."

5

Select function "08" which is "Light Control."

6

Go to "Light Off Delay" and set it to your desired value. You can either choose 30 seconds, 60 seconds, 90 seconds or immediate off.

The intake manifold for an delivers fuel and air to the engine in a precise ratio. International Harvester made an eight-cylinder 6.9-liter diesel engine from 1982 until 1987. This engine commonly appears in Ford F series trucks during this period, especially F-250 and F-350 models. The removal of the intake manifold in a Ford truck with a 6.9-liter engine requires you to remove the injection pump and other components to access the intake manifold.

Instructions

1

Remove the cables from the negative terminals of both batteries with a socket wrench. Disconnect the air cleaner from the intake manifold. Plug the air intake of the intake manifold with clean shop rags to keep debris out of the engine.

2

Detach the electrical connectors from the injection pump. Remove the bracket for the fast idle solenoid with a socket wrench, so you can access the mounting bolts for the injector pump. Disconnect the cables for the cruise control and accelerator from the throttle lever, if your vehicle is so equipped. Remove the bracket for the accelerator cable and push it out of the way.

3

Remove the fuel lines, in the elbow inlet and fitting adapter from the injection pump with a socket wrench. Rotate the injection pump out of the way, and disconnect the fuel lines from the injection nozzles. Cap all fuel lines and injection pump fittings with fuel system protective cap set T83T-9395-A to keep debris out of the fuel system.

4

Disconnect the retaining nuts from the the injection pump with tool T83T-9000-B. Detach the injection pump from its adapter, and remove the injection pump from the engine.

5

Disconnect the fuel return lines from the rear injection nozzles on the number seven and number eight cylinders. Detach the fuel return line on the fuel tank, and disconnect the electrical wiring harness from the engine. Remove the ground cables for the engine wiring harness from the left cylinder head.

6

Remove any additional components necessary to access the intake manifold on your vehicle. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the intake manifold with a socket wrench, and remove the intake manifold from the cylinder heads.

A damper bolt is a small bolt on the crank assembly of a car which helps facilitate rotating of the crank assembly and ensures your car is operating properly. The damper bolts hold the damper in place, with the damper attached to the motor of a car. Even if you installed your damper bolts tightly and turned them down all the way, they may still vibrate. It is important to fix the vibrating on the bolts to ensure your car is safe to drive.

Instructions

1

Pop the hood of your car and locate the serpentine belt, a single, continuous belt used to drive various devices in the car. Attach a 13mm wrench to the tensioner pulley on the inside of the belt and rotate it downwards to pull off the belt.

2

Pull the tensioner pulley out away from the car and set it aside so you can put it back on later once you have properly tightened the damper down in place. Locate the damper underneath where the tensioner pulley was and find the three bolts holding it in place.

3

Inspect all of the bolts and determine which ones are loose. Match up the size of the bolts with a wrench. The bolts will likely be 13mm so use the same wrench you used to remove the tensioner pulley and tighten down the damper bolts.

4

Slide the wrench over the top of the loose bolt and turn it clockwise to tighten it down in place. Continue turning until the bolt is as tight as you can get it by hand. Repeat the process for all of the other bolts just to verify they have been tightened down enough.

5

Slide the tensioner pulley back in place and tighten it down with the wrench. Turn on the car and test out the damper bolts to verify they are not vibrating while the car is running.

The BMW 635CSi is part of the BMW 6-series line of vehicles. The struts are part of the cars suspension. Struts prevent the car from bouncing too much. When struts go bad, it is apparent in the handling of the vehicle. Bad struts will begin to affect other parts of the vehicles suspension, so they should be replaced as soon as damage is evident. For best results, both struts should be replaced at the same time, and struts designed to fit on the 635CSi should be used.

Instructions

1

Park the BMW 635CSi on a flat, level surface, and set the parking brake. Loosen the lug nuts with a lug wrench. Place a jack under the center of the vehicle, and jack it up until jack stands can be placed under both axles. Remove the lug nuts with a lug wrench. Remove the wheel.

2

Remove the sway bar end from the strut with a socket wrench. Remove the brake hose bracket with a socket wrench. Loosen the bolts holding the strut to the steering knuckle. Remove the caliper mounting bolts, then remove the caliper. Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts.

3

Remove the bolts from the upper strut mounting bracket with a socket wrench. Remove the lower strut mounting bolts. Remove the strut assembly from the vehicle.

4

Compress the spring on the strut with a strut spring compressor. Remove the shaft nut with an open ended wrench. Remove the strut mount.

5

Thread the strut shaft nut onto the new strut with a torque wrench, and tighten it to the pressure indicated on the strut packaging. Remove the spring compressor.

6

Put the strut assembly in position, and install the lower mounting bolts and the upper mounting bracket with a socket wrench.

7

Reinstall the strut-to knuckle bolts with a socket wrench, but do not tighten them completely. Mount and secure the caliper with a socket wrench. Finish tightening the strut-to-knuckle bolts. Reattach the brake hose bracket and sway bar end.

8

Place the wheel back on the hub, and tighten the lug nuts most of the way with a lug wrench.

9

Repeat the entire procedure with the other strut.

10

Remove the jack stands, and lower the BMW. Tighten all of the lug nuts completely with the lug wrench.

The fuel pump to your 1993 Ford Explorer is designed to pressurize fuel that then travels through the fuel injectors and into the engine. A faulty fuel pump may be responsible for problems related to engine stalling and no-start conditions. Replacing the fuel pump is a procedure that can be done at home if you know how to remove the fuel tank and the fuel pumps fuel feed line and return lines, which are separate procedures that require separate tools. Other than acquiring the replacement parts, there are no special tools needed to perform this task on your own.

Instructions

Removing the Fuel Pump

1

Relieve the fuel pressure system by disconnecting the electrical connector from the inertia shut-off switch, located on the passenger-side floor pan below the heater, and run the Explorer for several seconds until it stops.

2

Siphon the fuel tank until it is empty with a siphoning kit.

3

Remove the negative cable from the battery.

4

Jack the Explorer and support it, using jack stands.

5

Remove the fuel tank. This is a separate procedure.

6

Remove the fuel feed line and the return lines from the fuel pump module. This is a separate procedure.

7

Caully knock loose the fuel-pump-module lock ring counterclockwise, using a brass punch and hammer.

8

Pull out the fuel pump from the fuel tank. Tilt the pump as you are doing this to prevent the fuel level float and sending unit from breaking off in the fuel tank.

9

Replace the O-ring seal on the tank if it is damaged.

10

Separate the electrical connector from the fuel pump. Use a small wrench to loosen the fuel hose lower clamp.

11

Separate the C-clip from the bottom of the fuel pump to remove the pump strainer using a flat-head screwdriver. If the strainer appears too contaminated to be cleaned with solvent, replace it.

Installing the New Fuel Pump

12

Wipe clean the fuel pump mounting area with a rag. Use thick grease for the new O-ring seal and place it around the opening on the fuel tank.

13

Attach the strainer to the new fuel pump and clip on the C-clip.

14

Install the new fuel pump to the fuel pump assembly by connecting the electrical connector to the fuel pump and tightening the clamp with a flat-head screwdriver.

15

Insert the fuel pump assembly into the fuel tank. Be caul not to damage the fuel level float and sending unit when installing the assembly.

16

Tighten the lock ring clockwise until the locking cams are underneath the retaining tangs. The new O-ring seal may make it difficult for it to lock, so you might have to push down while turning the lock ring.

17

Follow steps 6 to 3 of Section 1 in reverse order. Add gas to your Explorer. Follow Step 1 of Section 1 in reverse order to finish.

The BMW 740 is large luxury sedan that delivers limousine comfort in a sporty chassis. The 7 series is so good that it actually serves as the base for many Rolls Royce cars, which BMW also makes. However, it has a lot of electrical gadgets that can go bad, necessitating the removal of the center console to gain access to certain components. Alternatively, you can replace a faded or damaged center console with a replacement to resh the look of the interior.

Instructions

1

Drive the BMW 740 into your garage or driveway because if you perform this removal procedure on the side of the road it will look like you are stealing the stereo. Place the 740 in "Park" and pull the emergency brake to make sure it does not shift while you are working on it. Make sure the car is off before you continue.

2

Pull the two plastic cup holders out from the center arm rest by hand. Unscrew the Philips head screws at the bottom of the cup holder holes. Go to the back seat of the 740 and pull the ash tray out from the rear of the front center arm rest. Unscrew the two Philips head screws that are underneath. Pull the center arm rest up and then back and place it to the side so that it does not get bent. Pull the emergency brake jacket off and the center plastic bezel from around the shifter.

3

Pry the bottom of the center console bezel up with a flat screwdriver. Be very gentle, as you can easily crack the plastic. Work the screwdriver in the seam between the center console bezel and the rest of the dash. Pull the center console bezel straight back and then up once all the pegs are disengaged. Place the center console somewhere safe, as it too is prone to cracking.

Resetting the Service Engine Light (SEL) on a 2003 Buick should only be performed after the diagnostic trouble code or codes (DTCs) have been properly diagnosed and repaired if necessary. Some codes can be as simple as a small vacuum leak from a loose gas cap, but others can indicate more serious problems. Resetting the light without determining the source of the code(s) can create future problems with other components on the Buick and lead to more expensive repairs.

Instructions

1

Open the drivers side door on the 2003 Buick and locate the diagnostic link connector (DLC) underneath the dashboard. On a LeSabre and Park Avenue, the DLC is located under the dash to the left of the steering column. On the Century and Rendezvous models, the DLC is under the dash directly beneath the steering column. On the Buick Regal, the DLC is located under the dash to the right of the steering column.

2

Plug the OBD II scanner/eraser into the DLC. Because of the DLCs shape and the shape of the plug, there is only one correct way to plug it in.

3

Place the key of the Buick into the ignition and turn the key to the accessory power position. This position illuminates the lights on the instrument cluster and powers all the accessory components without the engine running. It will also provide power to the scanner from the Buicks battery.

4

Press the erase button on the faceplate of the scanner. If the scanner is not equipped with an erase button, follow the onscreen menu and use the scroll or enter button(s) to the erase codes or DTCs option and press the enter button.

5

Allow the onscreen menu of the scanner to default back to its main menu or display a "command sent" message.

6

Start the engine to the Buick and check the instrument cluster to ensure the SEL is no longer displayed. If it still is on or comes back quickly, the code(s) should be diagnosed properly and repairs made if necessary.

The Ford 6.0 Power Stroke is an eight-cylinder 6.0-liter engine that Ford has manufactured since 2003. It is a diesel engine that Ford most often uses in large vehicles such as 3/4-ton and 1-ton pickups. The function of the fuel injectors is to deliver fuel in a precise timing and quantity. You can replace the fuel injectors on the Ford 6.0 diesel engine without removing the fuel rail, unlike most gasoline engines.

Instructions

1

Remove the valve covers with a socket wrench and detach the electrical connectors from the fuel injectors. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the crankcase-to-head tube assembly and remove the assembly from the crankcase.

2

Disconnect the oil rail from the engine. Push the electrical connector for the fuel injector out of the rocker arm carrier with a small pry tool.

3

Plug the oil drain holes next to the glow plugs with clean cloth. Disconnect the retaining bolt for the fuel injectors with a socket wrench and release the hold-down clamp.

4

Pry the fuel injectors from the engine with a Snap-On SDMT440 Torx tool so that you dont damage the fuel injectors. Discard the O-rings and copper washer on the fuel injector. Pull the cloth from the oil drain holes.

5

Mount new O-rings and copper washers to the fuel injectors. Coat the fuel injector assembly with clean engine oil and install the fuel injector. Attach the hold-down clamp for to the fuel injector and torque the mounting bolts to 24 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench.

6

Place the electrical connector for the fuel injector electrical into the rocker carrier. Lubricate the top O-rings on the fuel injector with engine oil.

7

Install the oil rail into the fuel injectors so that the mounting feet of the oil rail are flush with their mounting surface on the engine. Install three guide bolts to hold the oil rail in place.

8

Install six of the nine mounting bolts for the oil rail. Replace the three guide bolts with the three remaining mounting bolts. Tighten all nine mounting bolts to 10 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench.

9

Connect the crankcase-to-head tube assembly and tighten the mounting bolts to 60 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Attach the electrical connector to the fuel injector and install the valve covers.