So Fix it

Turn signals operate by the opening and closing of a switch, or relay, which interrupts the electrical signal to the light. The switch operates in cadence based upon the electrical signal entering into the relay. Drivers of older vehicles with electrical problems may notice that the relay goes faster when the engine revs up, and slows down when the engine idles. An older relay will also begin to slow down as the electrical contacts in the switch begin to wear out. Speeding up the flashing of the turn signal merely requires installing a new turn signal relay.

Instructions

1

Turn the vehicle to "ON" and activate the turn signal.

2

Trace the location of the signal by listening for the clicking sound of the relay. Most relays are housed to the left of the steering column, mounted against the firewall in a bundle of wire connections. The relay is a usually a silver cylinder about 1 inch tall. Some newer models use a black box for the relay. You can both hear and feel the clicking of the switch while the signal is active.

3

Remove any necessary trim or dash panels to access the relay using a screwdriver or socket wrench as necessary.

4

Turn the vehicle off and remove the key.

5

Disconnect the old relay by pulling the wiring harness out of the electrical connection. You may have to unscrew a few retaining screws from the relay. Install the new relay in the reverse of the removal of the original. Start the vehicle and activate the turn signal to test. You will notice the signal is faster. Reinstall any dash or trim panels you removed.

Most likely you have multiple oxygen sensors in your Jeep Cherokee. Figuring out which one needs to be replaced will be more challenging than actually replacing it. A code reader can condemn and position a particular oxygen sensor, but since the sensors average around $75 or more a piece, you might consider leaving the code reading up to a professional. Most parts stores that sell quality direct-fit oxygen sensors usually have code readers and can find out the information for you at no charge as long as you purchase the part you need from them.
Once you have the required information and tools, you can change the oxygen sensor on your vehicle.

Instructions

How to Change the Oxygen Sensor to a Jeep Cherokee

1

Locate the oxygen sensor that needs to be replaced. The very first sensor is in the manifold and can be accessed under the hood on the drivers side of the engine. The rest will have to be accessed from under the vehicle in the exhaust system. There is one at the rear of the manifold in the front exhaust pipe, another in the pipe going to the catalytic converter on the passenger side under the Jeep.

2

Raise the front of the Jeep if necessary by driving it up on car ramps. Apply the parking brake and place a wheel chock behind one of the rear tires. Crawl underneath on a creeper (if you have one) with the tools and the new sensor.

3

Put on the safety glasses.

4

Spray WD-40 on the threads of the oxygen sensor and allow it to soak in. Be caul the engine is not too hot when replacing the sensors, especially the very front one up in the manifold.

5

Follow the wire of the oxygen sensor to the plug and unplug it. You can use the screwdriver to press in and release the clip lock.

6

Remove the oxygen sensor with the oxygen sensor socket and ratchet. If it is stubborn, you may want to try and heat the pipe area up with the hand torch to expand the pipe. Once the sensor is loosed from the threads, allow the pipe to cool down if you had to use the torch.

7

Remove the old oxygen sensor.

8

Screw in the new oxygen sensor and make sure there is a coating of anti-seize lubricant on the threads. Most quality direct-fit after-market sensors will already have a coating applied to them. This will make future extraction a little easier.

9

Tighten the sensor with the socket and ratchet, but be caul not to over-tighten. If you strip the threads of the sensor, youre going to have to buy another one.

10

Plug the wire back into the plug.

11

Remove the tools and lower the Cherokee and/or close the hood.

The Jeep Grand Cherokee grille is attached to the its reinforcement at the front of the vehicle, making it more rigid and increasing its durability. The grille is constructed from plastic and can crack or break with an impact, necessitating replacement of the grille itself. Replacement grilles can be purchased at your local dealership. You might be able to obtain a good used part from a salvage yard, however, and save yourself a significant amount of money.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your Grand Cherokee and locate the two bolts on the top of the radiator support that secure the grille to its reinforcement and radiator support.

2

Remove the two upper mounting bolts from the grille with a 10-millimeter socket and ratchet. Set the bolts aside.

3

Locate the retaining screws on the front of the grille. There are three screws inside the vertical slats of the grille.

4

Remove the retaining screws from the front of the grille with a Phillips screwdriver and remove the grille from the front of the Jeep.

General Motors, or GM, began developing the LS family of engines in 1997. GM used these eight-cylinder engines in a variety of cars and trucks with rear-wheel-drive until 2005. A typical application for the LS1 engine was the Chevrolet Camaro from 1998 to 2002. The LS1 engine uses a harmonic balancer, also known as a crankshaft balancer, on the end of the crankshaft to keep the crankshaft stable at high speed. The procedure for installing a harmonic balancer in an LS1 engine requires the removal of additional components to access the crankshaft.

Instructions

1

Remove the batterys negative cable with a socket wrench, to avoid starting the engine inadvertently. Detach the drive belt for the air conditioner.

2

Raise the vehicle with a floor jack, and safely support it on jack stands. Disconnect the starter motor with a socket wrench to access the crankshaft. Remove the right cover for the transmission, and detach the lines for the transmission oil cooler from the radiator. Disconnect the cooler for the power steering fluid, if your vehicle is so equipped.

3

Attach Tool J 42386-A to the flywheel to hold the flywheel in place, and remove the mounting bolt for the crankshaft balancer with a socket wrench. Connect a removal tool to the crankshaft balancer, and pull the balancer from the crankshaft.

4

Mount the crankshaft balancer to the crankshaft with an installer tool. Fasten the old mounting bolt to the balancer, and tighten it to 240 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Remove the old mounting bolt for the crankshaft balancer with a socket wrench.

5

Measure the depth of the crankshaft nose within the balancer bore with a depth micrometer. This measurement should be between 0.094 inches and 0.176 inches. Repeat steps three and four until the installation depth of the crankshaft balancer is within this range.

6

Fasten the new mounting bolt to the crankshaft balancer, and tighten it to 37 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Turn the mounting bolt an additional 140 degrees clockwise with a socket wrench.

7

Attach the lines for the transmission oil cooler to the radiator, and torque the retaining nuts to 20 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Connect the cooler for the power steering fluid, if your vehicle is so equipped. Replace the right cover for the transmission, and tighten it mounting bolt to 106 inch-pounds. Connect the starter motor.

8

Lower the vehicle, and attach the drive belt for the air conditioner. Connect the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

The Ford 5.4-liter engine is a V-8 engine with aluminum cylinder heads. It appears in various Ford vehicles made since 1997, such as the F-Series of pickup trucks. The 5.4-liter engine has a pair of cylinder heads, one on each side of the engine. The head gasket lies between the cylinder head and the engine block, and makes a tight seal between the two components. The procedure for replacing the cylinder head gaskets is generally the same for both gaskets.

Instructions

1

Evacuate the air-conditioning system with the appropriate evacuating equipment. This step requires a mechanic licensed by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA).

2

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to prevent the engine from starting during the head gasket replacement. Remove the covers for the cylinder head, and disconnect the intake manifold from the engine block. Detach the timing chains from their sprockets, and remove both exhaust manifolds from the engine block.

3

Remove the retaining bolts from the heater hose on the engine block with a socket wrench. Release the hose clamp by squeezing it together and sliding it down the hose. Detach the hose from the engine block. Detach any additional cables, electrical connectors and hoses that restrict your access to the cylinder head.

4

Disconnect the mounting bolts from the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Detach the cylinder head from the engine block. Remove the head gasket from the engine block and discard it. Remove any traces of the gasket from the cylinder head and engine block with a gasket scraper.

5

Turn the crankshaft clockwise by hand so that the key way on the crankshaft is in the 12 oclock position. Place the new gasket for the cylinder head over the dowel pins on the engine block. Mount the cylinder head over the dowel pins, so that the head is on top of the gasket.

6

Install new mounting bolts to the cylinder head by hand. Tighten the bolts to 30 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Tighten the mounting bolts for the cylinder head an additional 85 to 95 degrees on the second pass. Tighten the mounting bolts an additional 85 to 95 degrees on the third pass.

7

Connect the heater hose to the cylinder head, and fasten its retaining bolts with a socket wrench. Slide the hose clamp in place to secure the hose. Attach the exhaust manifolds to the engine block, and mount the timing chains to their sprockets. Connect the intake manifold to the engine block.

8

Attach the covers for the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Connect all additional electrical connectors, cables and hoses you removed to obtain access to the cylinder head.

9

Recharge the air-conditioning system with the appropriate equipment. This step requires a mechanic licensed by the EPA.

10

Fill the engine oil and coolant to their proper levels. Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Start the engine and check for fluid leaks.

The engine in your General Motors vehicle depends on precision timing and accuracy. The Opti-Spark is an ignition distributor used by GM that employs an optical sensor to trigger the firing of spark plugs. Although they are known for high performance, these devices can have increased susceptibility to wear and tear and may need to be changed more often than other types of distributor caps.

Instructions

1

Check your local GM dealership or authorized mechanic. They will have the part in stock or can order it for you and offer services for installation.

2

Search online for "buy GM optispark." This will give you the widest range of Opti-Spark designs and types from which to choose. Also try auction sites such as eBay or check several of the large companies that make Opti-Sparks for both standard and custom use.

3

Contact the retailer you have chosen and ensure that the part you are buying is correct for your vehicle. You will need to supply the make, model and year of your car.

The Acura TL is a luxury sports car in production since 1996. The 2002 model is a second generation Acura, which includes the 1999 through 2003 models. The standard engine for all second generation Acuras in North America is a six-cylinder, 3.2-liter engine with a double overhead camshaft. The timing belt synchronizes the crankshaft with the camshafts, so the cylinder valves open and close at the right time.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable for the negative battery terminal and the ignition coil cover with a socket wrench.

2

Place a cushion such as a wooden board on top of a floor jack. Place the floor jack under the oil pan, and raise the vehicle. Remove the front wheel assemblies with a lug wrench. Disconnect the splash shield under the vehicle and remove the accessory drive belts from their respective pulleys.

3

Lower the vehicle with the floor jack and raise it slightly to take the weight of the engine off the engine mounts. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the side mount on the front of the engine, and remove the side mount. Remove the bolt for the dipstick tube with a socket wrench, and detach the tube from the engine.

4

Rotate the crankshaft clockwise to align the white timing mark on the crankshaft pulley with the pointer on the lower rear timing belt cover. The timing marks on the camshaft pulleys must also align with their respective timing marks on the upper rear timing belt cover.

5

Hold the crankshaft pulley in place with Holder Attachment Tool 07MAB-PY3010A. Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt with a socket wrench and a 19mm socket. Pull the crankshaft pulley from its shaft with Holder Attachment Tool 07MAB-PY3010A.

6

Disconnect a bolt for a battery clamp with a socket wrench. Grind a 45-degree bevel on the threaded end of the bolt. Screw the bolt into the hole in the right cylinder head by hand to hold the adjuster for the timing belt in place. Disconnect the engine mount bracket. Turn the mounting bolt for the idler pulley five turns counterclockwise with a socket wrench, and detach the timing belt.

7

Disconnect the spark plugs. Turn the crankshaft sprocket clockwise to align the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket with the timing mark on the oil pump. The timing mark on the camshaft pulleys must also align with their respective timing marks on the rear timing belt covers.

8

Disconnect the battery clamp bolt with a socket wrench and replace it into its original hole. Remove the timing belt tensioner and place it into a soft-jawed vise with the maintenance bolt pointed up. Remove the maintenance bolt with a socket wrench. Place Stopper Tool 14540-P8A-A01 onto the tensioner to maintain the tension setting. Turn the screw inside the maintenance hole clockwise with a flat-blade screwdriver to compress the bottom of the tensioner.

9

Replace the gasket for the maintenance bolt on the timing belt tensioner and tighten the bolt to 6 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Install the tensioner and tighten its mounting bolts to 33 ft. lbs.

10

Mount the new timing belt to the crankshaft sprocket, idler pulley, left camshaft sprocket, water pump pulley, right camshaft sprocket and adjusting pulley in that order. Remove Stopper Tool 14540-P8A-A01 from the timing belt tensioner.

11

Install the bolts for the engine side mount with a torque wrench. Tighten the No. 10 bolts to 33 ft. lbs., and tighten the No. 6 bolts to 104 in. lbs. Connect the timing belt covers with a socket wrench. Install the crankshaft pulley with Holder Attachment tool 07MAB-PY3010A. Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt with a torque wrench and a 19mm socket to 181 ft. lbs.

12

Turn the crankshaft five complete turns clockwise to position the timing belt, and align the timing marks. Connect the dipstick tube, accessory drive belts, splash shield and front wheel assemblies. Lower the vehicle and replace the ignition coil cover. Attach the cable to the negative battery terminal.

The catalytic converter reduces smog emissions by converting harmful emissions from your engine into less dangerous gases. Like any other part on your car, there will come a time when the catalytic converter will need to be replaced either because it is broken and has holes in it, or it just gets clogged up. The project is not difficult, and the entire process will take about an hour to an hour and a half to complete.

Instructions

1

Park the car on a level surface and set the parking brake.

2

Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.

3

Raise the car with an automobile jack and place a jack stand under the car at the frame rail. Position the jack stand as close as possible to the frame.

4

Remove the bolts from the front and back end of the catalytic converter with the proper size socket and a ratchet.

5

Remove the catalytic converter from the exhaust system by twisting it and tapping the ends with a rubber mallet.

6

Install the new catalytic converter in place of the old one and secure it with the bolts hand-tight.

7

Tighten all of the bolts with the proper size socket and ratchet.

8

Remove the jack stand and lower the car to the ground with the jack.

Problems with the catalytic converter on your Mercedes, or any vehicle for that matter, are often more difficult to deal with than most drivers realize because it is illegal to tamper with a catalytic converter in any way. This means it is illegal to attempt to fix your Mercedes catalytic converter by any means other than having an approved certified mechanic replace it.



There are both federal and state laws governing the removal and replacement of catalytic converters on vehicles. The noise your catalytic converter is making indicates a problem that may cause your Mercedes to fail an emissions test or land you a number of federal fines from the Environmental Protection Agency if not handled properly. It is only legal to remove it if the noise is affecting its function.

Instructions

1

Check the warranty. Your Mercedes may not be covered by the federally mandated Environmental Protection Agency warranty. Federal law emissions warranty specifies that if your car was manufactured before 1996, the catalytic converter is still under warranty only if the car has less than 50,000 miles on it. If the car was manufactured after 1996, the car is legally required to have more than 80,000 miles on it or be more than eight years old to be out of warranty.

Some Mercedes vehicles have documented issues with the catalytic converters. Mercedes reached a settlement with the EPA to extend the emissions warranties on these vehicles.

2

Take your Mercedes to the dealership, or a mechanic who regularly handles these cars, and have the catalytic converter tested. You will need to go to a mechanic who is familiar with the cars exhaust system requirements and has access to original equipment manufacturer, or OEM, exhaust parts. The converter used to replace your Mercedes converter must be identical to the original Mercedes catalytic converter.

If your car is still covered by the federal warranty, it will need to be taken to the Mercedes dealership.

3

Have the mechanic thoroughly document the problem with the converter, then, if necessary, replace it with an identical new converter. Documentation of the problem is a legal requirement if the converter needs to be replaced.

Since tampering with converters is illegal, your noisy converter will probably be replaced. If the converter is still functioning, the mechanic is not legally allowed to remove it.

4

Make sure the mechanic also fills out a warranty card as required by federal law. Save a copy of everything for your records in case of emissions inspection problems at a later date.

An engines exhaust manifold routes exhaust gases from the engine to the vehicles exhaust system. Without the exhaust manifold, hazardous exhaust fumes can reach the interior of the vehicle. Installation of the exhaust manifold is usually the final step of the engine installation process, but installation is also necessary when an exhaust manifold gasket is replaced. Thankfully, installing an exhaust manifold is a straightforward process.

Instructions

1

Ensure that the exhaust manifolds mating surface is free from old gasket deposits to begin the installation process. Old exhaust manifold gaskets rarely leave gasket deposits, but if any deposits are present they should be scraped away with a gasket scrapper.

2

Place a new exhaust manifold gasket over the manifolds mating surface. Do not apply gasket sealer to this gasket.

3

Position the exhaust manifold with its gasket against the portion of the head where the manifold attaches, then place one exhaust manifold bolt through one end of the manifold and into the head. Turn this bolt only until it begins to grasp the threads within the head.

4

Insert another manifold bolt into the opposite side of the exhaust manifold and turn this bolt only until it begins to grasp the threads within the head.

5

Insert the remaining exhaust manifold bolts through the manifold and into the head.

6

Tighten each exhaust manifold bolt to the required torque specifications with a torque wrench to complete the installation. Refer to the vehicles specifications manual for this torque setting.

If you plan to remove the oil seal in the rear axle housing of your Jeep Grand Cherokee, it helps to have a seal puller. Rental pullers are available at many auto parts stores and will help prevent damage to the pinion shaft. The oil seal is in the housing where the pinion shaft passes through the differential and keeps the oil from running out of your axle. Replacement seals are available from Jeep or most auto parts stores.

Instructions

1

Raise the rear of your Jeep with a jack and support the truck with a set of jack stands under the rear axle. Locate the pinion yoke, where the axle and driveshaft meet. Place an alignment mark on the yoke and the driveshaft with a paint pen for use later.

2

Remove the four 10-millimeter bolts from the pinion yoke with a wrench, then separate the drive shaft from the yoke. Caully set the drive shaft aside.

3

Locate the pinion nut in the center of the pinion yoke. Install a large socket and breaker bar on the nut and rotate it counterclockwise. Remove the nut and washer from the shaft.

4

Remove the pinion yoke from the shaft with a yoke puller. If you do not have a puller, you can rent one from many auto parts stores. If you cannot find a puller, heating the yoke with an oxyacetylene torch will allow it to swell and come loose. Caully slide it off the shaft.

5

Place an oil drain pan under the pinion shaft to catch any oil that might seep from the differential when you remove the seal.

6

Place the seal puller over the shaft and engage the arms with the inside edge of the seal. Turn the puller counterclockwise with a socket and ratchet, pulling the seal from the bore.

Finding authentic parts or accessories for an older vehicle that you are rebuilding or repairing can be frustrating. Most repair shops keep only newer car parts and accessories in stock. In some cases, even figuring out the specific brand and model of accessories like car stereos that belong in an older truck can be a challenge. Specific types of resources can help take the guesswork out of the process and help ease a bit of the frustration. Finding original factory parts or accessories--such as a 1989 Toyota Land Cruiser car stereo--requires research from several resources.

Instructions

1

Ask your local Toyota dealer. Toyota dealerships have access to erence materials--such as parts directories and technical specification information--that will help you track down a factory car stereo for your 1989 Toyota Land Cruiser. Your local Toyota dealer may also be aware of resources available to order the stereo, or at least direct you to sellers, resellers or car clubs where you can find it.

2

Check online auction sites. Sites such as eBay Motors, which specializes in cars, parts and electronics, have specific sections for electronics like Toyota Land Cruiser stereos. Although such auction sites offer a comprehensive selection of parts and electronic accessories since they draw from sellers around the world, note that availability of a 1989 Land Cruiser factory stereo will depend on someone else selling it. Because these sites also depend on users to categorize the parts they sell, you may need to search multiple categories for the stereo you need--such as "Parts & Accessories" and "Electronics."

3

Use specialty parts sites. Sites that specialize in particular kinds of parts or accessories are a good source in your search for a 1989 Toyota Land Cruiser factory stereo. Websites like HiFi Sound Connection and Installer.com offer you tools that search their parts and accessories directories by year, make or model of car, or by brand of stereo. Specialty parts and accessories sites also categorize parts by manufacturer and let you scroll through the different models and manufacturing years as needed.

Jeep Wranglers are equipped with hydraulic clutches. There are two components to a hydraulic clutch system, a master cylinder and slave cylinder. When you push on the clutch with your foot the master cylinder pushes hydraulic fluid down a line to the slave cylinder. The slave cylinder then pushes the clutch lever, opening and closing the clutch. Master cylinders have a tendency to lose pressure over time and need to be changed.

Instructions

1

Remove the clutch master cylinder cap. It is bolted to the firewall at the highest point above the steering column. Suck out all the fluid with the syringe.

2

Disconnect the hydraulic line coming into the cylinder with a 3/8-inch open end wrench.

3

Remove the upper and lower master cylinder mounting nuts with the 1/2-inch wrench.

4

Lean under the dashboard on the inside of the cab. Trace the clutch pedal up to the point where it meets the lever coming in from the master cylinder. The pedal is joined to the lever with a cotter pin. Pull out the cotter pin with pliers. Using your fingers, disconnect the pedal from the lever by pulling it to the side.

5

Pull the cylinder free from the firewall. Insert the new cylinder. Screw both cylinder mounting bolts back into the firewall securing the cylinder to the firewall. Screw the 3/8-inch hydraulic line onto the new cylinder.

6

Lean under the dashboard. Connect the clutch pedal to the master cylinder lever coming in through the firewall. Insert the cotter pin.

7

Fill the master cylinder with hydraulic fluid but leave the cap off. Get into the vehicle and pump the brake several times until the brakes have sufficient resistance. You will be able to feel the brake get stiff as any air escapes when you are pumping the brakes. Put the cap back on the master cylinder.

The third vehicle Ford Motor Company produced was a truck. By 1917 Ford was consistently producing the Model T one-ton truck for the American automotive consumer. Ford began manufacturing the F-Series truck in 1948, offering consumers multiple engine and chassis configurations. Today, innovations such as fuel injection, power windows and air conditioning have kept the F-Series Fords top selling truck platform. Replacing the A/C compressor can be performed with common tools and moderate automotive repair knowledge.

Instructions

A/C Compressor Removal

1

Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal on the vehicles battery.

2

Locate the A/C compressor on the front-right side of the engine block.

3

Locate the two rigerant lines connected to the back side of the compressor, and remove them using an open end wrench. Install a cap on each of the lines immediately to prevent rigerant from escaping. Refrigerant line caps are available from most automotive parts supply stores. Discard the two rubber "O" rings.

4

Release the tension from the accessory drive belt using a pry-bar and pull the belt of off the compressor pulley.

5

Remove the six bolts attaching the compressor to the compressor bracket using a socket wrench and a socket, and remove the compressor.

A/C Compressor Installation

6

Add rigerant oil into the service ports on the new A/C compressor.

7

Install the compressor to the compressor mounting bracket by threading the six compressor retaining bolts by hand. Tighten the bolts using a torque wrench and socket to the manufacturers recommended torque level.

8

Apply rigerant oil on the two new rubber "O" rings supplied with the new A/C compressor. Install the two new "O" rings on both rigerant lines.

9

Attach the two rigerant lines to the compressor, one at a time, by removing the caps on the lines and threading the rigerant line fitting into the compressor by hand. Tighten each line until the fitting is fully seated in the compressor using an open-end wrench.

10

Install the accessory drive belt onto the compressor drive pulley.

11

Connect the negative cable to the vehicles battery.

12

Start the engine and turn the air conditioning system to "maximum cool" and the blower to "high". Make sure the air conditioning system is cooling, and add rigerant if needed.

When the Check Engine light comes on in your 2000 Toyota Camry, it may indicate a faulty oxygen sensor. Another indication of a failing oxygen sensor is a significant decrease in fuel mileage. If youre spending more time and money at the pump, check your oxygen sensors. The oxygen sensors in your Camry are located before and after the exhaust manifold, protruding from the exhaust pipes. Buy a new sensor from an auto parts retailer.

Instructions

1

Start the ignition of your Camry and allow the engine to run for approximately five minutes. Turn the ignition off.

2

Raise the front of the 2000 Camry with a jack and secure it on a set of jack stands. Remove the jack once the front of the Camry is supported on the jack stands so you can slide under the car.

3

Slide under the Camry and locate the oxygen sensor. Unplug the sensors electrical connector. Press the retaining clip and pull the plug out of the connection.

4

Remove the sensor with an oxygen sensor socket and ratchet. If the sensor in your Camry is secured with bolts, remove the two bolts with a socket and ratchet and pull the sensor straight out. Discard the old sensor and gasket.

5

Install the new gasket on the replacement sensor. Thread the sensor in by hand and tighten it with an oxygen sensor socket and ratchet or, if it is secured with bolts, install it straight into place and tighten the bolts with a socket and ratchet. Press the electrical connection together until it clicks.

6

Repeat the process on the other sensor if necessary.

7

Raise the car slightly with the jack to remove the jack stands. Lower the car to the ground.

If the air-conditioning compressor on a late model car does not engage, the system is probably low on rigerant and the low-pressure switch prevents the compressor from turning on. This problem goes away by simply adding rigerant. Opening a can of R134a into the system usually overrides the low-pressure switch and allows the air-conditioning compressor to engage normally. On older cars, the air-conditioning compressor has to be engaged manually to recharge the system. The procedure is simple and usually takes less than a minute.

Instructions

1

Check the compressor oil level. Add more oil if necessary. Since different manufacturers have different procedures for checking compressor oil levels and filling compressors with oil, er to the auto manufacturers shop manual for specific instructions.

2

Locate the single wire connector near the front of the compressor and unplug it.

3

Hook one end of the fused jumper wire to the compressor side of the wire connector.

4

Hook the other end of the jumper wire to the positive terminal of the battery. By supplying voltage to the compressor, the compressor will engage manually without even turning on the air-conditioning switch inside the car.

The belt that operates the engine accessories on the Chevrolet Aveo is a single accessory belt. The accessory belt routes around all of the accessory pulleys at once. As the engine runs, the crankshaft turns the belt around all of the pulleys. This process makes it possible for the single belt to operate each of the accessories at the same time. If the belt begins to fray or crack, replace it with a new belt before the belt breaks. If the belt breaks, all of the engine accessories will stop working.

Instructions

1

Park the Chevrolet Aveo, and open the hood. Turn the steering wheel to the far right, and turn the engine off. This will give you enough room to access the belt tensioner pulley from the front passenger side wheel well. Set the parking brake.

2

Locate the belt routing diagram on the top of the fan shroud. You will use the routing instructions from this diagram to route the new belt around all of the engine accessories. Lower the hood.

3

Jack the front end of the Chevrolet Aveo up, and slide the jack stands under the proper front jacking points. Lower the car onto the top of the stands.

4

Move to the front passenger side wheel well. Remove the plastic guard from the back of the wheel well by removing the 10-mm bolts and nuts with a ratchet and a 10-mm socket. Pull the guard out of the wheel well, and place it on the ground.

5

Locate the belt tensioner near the bottom center of the engine. The tensioner has a pulley attached to the bottom of the tensioner arm. Use a breaker bar and a 14-mm socket to turn the tensioner.

6

Rotate the tensioner clockwise from the bolt head in the middle of the tensioner pulley with a breaker bar and a 14-mm socket. Once the tension is off of the belt, slide the belt off of the tensioner pulley and the other accessory pulleys. Pull the belt out through the wheel well.

7

Route the new belt through the wheel well and around each of the engine accessories as directed by the belt routing diagram.

8

Rotate the tensioner clockwise with the breaker bar and 14-mm socket again. Slide the new belt around the tensioner pulley, and release the breaker bar. Pull the breaker bar and socket off of the tensioner and out through the wheel well. Inspect the belt to ensure it is inside of each pulley.

9

Crank the engine, and inspect the new belt to make sure that it stays seated inside of each pulley. Turn the engine off. Reinstall the guard to the back of the wheel well, and tighten the bolt and nuts with the ratchet and 10-mm socket.

10

Jack the Chevrolet Aveo back up and remove the jack stands. Lower the car to the ground and remove the jack.

You can adjust the parking brake on your 1995 Ford Mustang right from your driveway or garage. Doing so will save you time and money. You can test whether or not your parking brake needs an adjustment by positioning it downhill and trying to hold the vehicle in place using only the parking brake. If it doesnt hold and the Mustang starts to slip, you need to adjust it. The good news is that it takes only one simple tool that you probably already have at home.

Instructions

1

Find the center console cover and remove it by pressing the release levers on the sides and pulling up on it. This is located between the front passengers seat and the drivers seat.

2

Lift up the parking brake handle four clicks.

3

Find the adjuster nut at the end of the cable rod. Loosen the nut with the pliers but take care that the nut doesnt fall off.

4

Lower the parking brake lever all the way. Turn the nut with the pliers until it is very close to the parking brake handle.

5

Lift up the parking brake handle to its highest position, then lower it all the way to the lowest position. Do this four times. This will set the brake adjustment.

6

Put the center console cover back in place.

7

Test the parking brake adjustment by positioning the vehicle on a downward facing slope and try to hold the Mustang in place using only the parking brake. If it holds the vehicle in place, then you have done the adjustment correctly.

There are a variety of components in the emission control system of modern automobiles, one of which is the Oxygen (O2) sensor. It measures the amount of oxygen present in the engine exhaust. The O2 sensor is linked to the Lexus SC400s computer, which then makes adjustments to the fuel/air mixture as the engine is running. This helps the engine run at peak efficiency, reducing exhaust pollution. The O2 sensor requires periodic replacement. Many owners can do the job themselves.

Instructions

1

Park your Lexus SC400. Set the parking brake, and open the engine hood. Let the engine cool completely before proceeding.

2

Locate the O2 sensor. Its in the lower engine area on the passenger side, threaded into the exhaust manifold.

3

Remove the wire from the sensor. Spray some anti-seize spray at the bottom of the sensor where it goes into the manifold. Let the fluid penetrate for a few minutes before proceeding.

4

Remove the sensor with the appropriate size socket and ratchet. Rotate the sensor counter-clockwise to loosen.

5

Install the new sensor into the hole and tighten firmly. Attach the wire and the job is finished.

Epoxy paint can be difficult to sand with good results. Wet sanding is often considered the best approach, and there is no clogged sandpaper or dust produced during the process. Wet sanding is done with waterproof sandpaper. This sandpaper is made from closed coat, silicon carbide. Waterproof sandpaper can be purchased at automotive paint supply stores. Learning how to wet sand epoxy paint is not difficult and just requires a little bit of practice.

Instructions

1

Fill a clean 5-gallon bucket and a spray bottle with water.

2

Fit a rubber sanding block with waterproof sandpaper. Use 60-grit sandpaper for the first sanding and follow up with 220-grit sandpaper.

3

Dip the sanding block into the bucket and begin sanding the epoxy paint. Wet the sanding block as needed, or use the spray bottle to wet the surface of the epoxy paint as you sand.

4

Wipe away the water and excess sanding material from the epoxy paint with a rubber-bladed window washer. Rinse the surface and the rubber-bladed window washer thoroughly between grits. This will prevent you from crossing the coarse-grit sandpaper with the finer-grit sandpaper.