So Fix it

Threadlock compound is a paste-like or liquid substance designed to seal the threads of metallic nuts and bolts. After applying threadlocker compound to the threads of a bolt, the substance will harden, providing an airtight and waterproof seal. Many automotive, industrial and hobby applications call for the use of threadlocker during assembly and repair tasks associated with certain components. Removing this hardened compound from a nut is an easy task, with the correct tools and supplies available.

Instructions

1

Peel off any thick portions of the threadlock from the nut, using a pair of small tweezers to gain access to the threads.

2

Apply a liberal amount of comparable threadlocker to the threaded portion of the nut. Allow the applied compound to soak into the threads and soften the old hardened threadlock.

3

Wipe off the threadlock, using a clean shop rag or paper towel. Put on a pair of thick leather gloves and clean out the remaining threadlocker with a sharp hobby knife. If any residue remains on the threads, move on to the next steps.

4

Secure the nut with a C-clamp or bench vice. Apply heat to the nut, using a lighter or propane torch. Do not operate the lighter or torch around flammable liquids, gasses or solid materials. Heat the nut until the hardened threadlock turns to ash.

5

Allow the nut to cool sufficiently. Remove the nut from the clamp and clean out any remaining residue from the threads, using the hobby knife. Wipe off the outside portion of the nut with a clean towel to complete the process.

Threadlock compound is a paste-like or liquid substance designed to seal the threads of metallic nuts and bolts. After applying threadlocker compound to the threads of a bolt, the substance will harden, providing an airtight and waterproof seal. Many automotive, industrial and hobby applications call for the use of threadlocker during assembly and repair tasks associated with certain components. Removing this hardened compound from a nut is an easy task, with the correct tools and supplies available.

Instructions

1

Peel off any thick portions of the threadlock from the nut, using a pair of small tweezers to gain access to the threads.

2

Apply a liberal amount of comparable threadlocker to the threaded portion of the nut. Allow the applied compound to soak into the threads and soften the old hardened threadlock.

3

Wipe off the threadlock, using a clean shop rag or paper towel. Put on a pair of thick leather gloves and clean out the remaining threadlocker with a sharp hobby knife. If any residue remains on the threads, move on to the next steps.

4

Secure the nut with a C-clamp or bench vice. Apply heat to the nut, using a lighter or propane torch. Do not operate the lighter or torch around flammable liquids, gasses or solid materials. Heat the nut until the hardened threadlock turns to ash.

5

Allow the nut to cool sufficiently. Remove the nut from the clamp and clean out any remaining residue from the threads, using the hobby knife. Wipe off the outside portion of the nut with a clean towel to complete the process.

An engines firing order is the sequence that each cylinder is used in power delivery. The firing order for the 6.6L turbo diesel V8 in the 2004 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 2WD is 1-2-7-8-4-5-6-3.

Gasoline Versus Diesel

In a gasoline engine, the distributor or Engine Control Unit sends electricity to individual spark plugs to ignite fuel in each cylinder in a specific order. In a diesel engine it is determined by the order in which fuel is injected into each cylinder.

Cylinder 1

Engine firing orders always start with cylinder number one, which on this engine is located at the front left of the engine from the drivers point of view.

Cylinder Banks

GM V8 cylinders are numbered 1-3-5-7 on the left (drivers) side of the engine, and 2-4-6-8 on the right (passenger) side.

Buick introduced the LeSabre Marquee as a concept car in 1951. The nameplate officially became part of the Buick lineup in 1959. Before discontinuing the model in 2005, Buick had sold over 6 million LeSabres, and for 12 years it was the best-selling full-size vehicle in the U.S. The Buick LeSabre has sold with a number of different transmissions, all of which are prone to problems. Signs of a bad transmission in a Buick LeSabre arent difficult to detect.

Leaks

Look at the ground under where the Buick LeSabre is normally parked. Puddles of fluid, stains and spots are all signs of a leak. If the leak appears red in color, there is a good chance the Buick LeSabres transmission is leaking.

Fluid

Even without a noticeable leak, the transmission fluid is possibly getting dangerously low. Use the transmission fluid dipstick to check for proper operating levels. If the fluid is not translucent red or smells burnt, change the fluid.

Vibrations

Vibrations and shuttering of the vehicle during gear shifts is a clear sign that something is not right with the Buick LeSabres transmission. The transmission is designed to shift smoothly and easily; vibrations are a sign that shifts are not happening as intended.

Noises

Grinding, whining or any other unusual noises coming from the transmission are a clue that something is wrong with the gears or transmission valves. Transmission noises usually come from the floorboards and near the center of the vehicle.

Overheating

Overheating of the transmission is a severe sign that something is wrong with the Buick LeSabre transmission. Overheating is caused by internal breakdown or during heavy towing, rocking the vehicle, racing or stop-and-go driving in high-heat environments. Signs of overheating are smoke, burnt transmission fluid and excessive heat near the shift lever.

Shock is a medical condition that often occurs due to some sort of trauma. According to the National Institute of General Medical Sciences, shock, also known as circulatory collapse, sets in when the blood pressure in a persons arteries is too low to supply adequate blood to his organs and tissues. In a state of shock, a persons skin becomes cold and sweaty and his pulse becomes weak. Breathing becomes irregular, the mouth becomes dry and pupils dilate.

Septic Shock

Septic shock results from microorganisms entering the bloodstream. Anything that introduces bacteria into the blood stream can cause septic shock. This condition causes immune chemicals to be released into your bloodstream to fight the infection and triggers widespread inflammation, leading to blood clots and leaky vessels, according to a description of the condition by National Institute of General Medical Sciences. The condition deprives the body of blood flow and damages the bodys organs. An extreme form of this reaction results in septic shock and could cause death. People with chronic illnesses such as diabetes and kidney or liver disease face a higher than average risk of septic shock.(see erence 1)

Anaphylactic Shock

Anaphylactic shock is caused by a severe allergy reaction. This results from an anaphylaxis reaction that could set in within minutes or seconds of your exposure to something you are allergic to, such as milk or peanuts, as MayoClinic.com explains. A flood of chemicals is released by your immune system during an anaphylaxis reaction. This could cause you to go into shock as your blood pressure drops and your airways become too narrow to allow normal breathing. (see erence 2)

Cardiogenic Shock

When the heart is too weak to pump enough blood to meet the needs of the body, the result could be a cardiogenic shock. Damage to the heart muscle from a severe heart attack is the most common form of cardiogenic shock, according to the National Heart Lung and Blood Institute. Not everyone who has a heart attack goes into cardiogenic shock as a result though. Only about seven percent of people who experience heart attack go into cardiogenic shock. (see erence 3)

Jeep Wranglers are equipped with hydraulic clutches. There are two components to a hydraulic clutch system, a master cylinder and slave cylinder. When you push on the clutch with your foot the master cylinder pushes hydraulic fluid down a line to the slave cylinder. The slave cylinder then pushes the clutch lever, opening and closing the clutch. Master cylinders have a tendency to lose pressure over time and need to be changed.

Instructions

1

Remove the clutch master cylinder cap. It is bolted to the firewall at the highest point above the steering column. Suck out all the fluid with the syringe.

2

Disconnect the hydraulic line coming into the cylinder with a 3/8-inch open end wrench.

3

Remove the upper and lower master cylinder mounting nuts with the 1/2-inch wrench.

4

Lean under the dashboard on the inside of the cab. Trace the clutch pedal up to the point where it meets the lever coming in from the master cylinder. The pedal is joined to the lever with a cotter pin. Pull out the cotter pin with pliers. Using your fingers, disconnect the pedal from the lever by pulling it to the side.

5

Pull the cylinder free from the firewall. Insert the new cylinder. Screw both cylinder mounting bolts back into the firewall securing the cylinder to the firewall. Screw the 3/8-inch hydraulic line onto the new cylinder.

6

Lean under the dashboard. Connect the clutch pedal to the master cylinder lever coming in through the firewall. Insert the cotter pin.

7

Fill the master cylinder with hydraulic fluid but leave the cap off. Get into the vehicle and pump the brake several times until the brakes have sufficient resistance. You will be able to feel the brake get stiff as any air escapes when you are pumping the brakes. Put the cap back on the master cylinder.

Adding a custom exhaust to your car is a good way to gain horsepower and a more aggressive tone to the exhaust at the same time. You could go out and buy a bolt-on system for your Altima, but if you want to truly customize, youll have to step up and have an exhaust built for you. First, though, youll want to find out what size your Altimas exhaust tubing is. That way you have a baseline to use as you determine how much you want to go up.

Instructions

1

Lift the Altima using the jack and place it on jack stands at all four corners. Make sure there is enough room for you to crawl underneath the car.

2

Locate the section of exhaust tubing that you want to measure. Open the calipers and place them over a straight section of exhaust tubing. Then tighten down the caliper until it contacts the exhaust all the way around.

3

Read the dial or digital gauge on your caliper to find out the approximate diameter. Exhaust tubing sells in average sizes: 2.25 inches, 2.5 inches, 2.75 inches, and so on; there are no odd sizes. Round the number on your caliper down to the next quarter size down, and thats your exhaust tubing diameter.

Conveyors are utilized in industrial and manufacturing capacities to perform the movement of products from one location to another. Using belt and gravity systems, conveyors are an integral part of the operations of certain companies . The conveyor motor, which creates the movement necessary for the conveyor to operate correctly, is made of several different components, each with its own function.

Speed Drives

Speed drives perform an important function in the operation of the conveyor motor and the conveyor belt as a whole. Speed drives control the operation and speed of the conveyor. Due to the nature of the conveyor, such drives are required to have a consistent torque level throughout the operation of the machine. A consistent torque level allows for the conveyor to handle the particular load being transported. Speed, which is also controlled by the driver, varies according to the industry the conveyor is being used in, as well as in maintenance, adjustment or set-up situations. The speed driver allows for the conveyor speed to be adjusted and theore provide better control over the processes. Many speed drives will control the operating speed so that it does not drop below 5 percent of the optimal speed when the conveyor is loaded down.

Starter

The motor starter for a conveyor controls the circuitry of the conveyor. The starter allows for the necessary electrical currents to be fed into the motor for the operation of the conveyor. Rockwell Automation notes that traditional conveyor systems break down the starter and control components for each individual function of the conveyor system. This "results in a mass of complex control and power wiring out to the individual motors and other field components." While not all systems will have such complex set-ups for their starters, the possible need for multiple motors, and theore multiple starters, is a reality in the larger industries. In this case, a conveyor may be quite long and operate on different speeds in each section.

Soft-Start and Soft-Stop Controls

Soft-start and soft-stop controls are in charge of the starting and stopping of the conveyor. A soft-start control is defined as a means for the motors power to slowly increase from its starting torque to full power without damaging the system or the motor. Similarly, soft-stop also helps to limit any damage to the motor or conveyor system through a gradual drop in the power.

Placed at the front end of most front-wheel-drive vehicles, struts support the vehicles weight while absorbing the shock from bumps and other abnormalities in the road. You cannot depend on a vehicle with bad struts to function properly in an emergency. If you notice any bad strut symptoms, take your vehicle in for evaluation and repair.

Bouncing and Rocking

If you notice that your vehicle no longer drives smoothly and bounces excessively when driving over bumps in the road or braking, your struts many be going bad. You may also notice abnormal rocking and sway in your vehicle while you drive. To test your struts, perform a bounce test by pushing down one corner of your car and letting it bounce back up. If the vehicle bounces a lot, that corner of the vehicle has a bad shock or strut.

Worn Tires

Uneven tread wear on your tires may be a result of bad struts. The excessive bouncing caused by bad struts could result in balding spots, wear channels or cupping patterns on your tires.

Bottoming Out

When your struts need replacement, your car will bottom out when driving over dips in the road, especially when carrying extra passengers. Bottoming out occurs when the struts or shock absorbers fail to support the frame of the car, and your car lands "hard" after going over a bump. You may notice this phenomenon happening in the front of your car. When you brake, your car tends to nose dive when your struts fail.

Leaks

Your struts consist of shock oil, dampening valves, a piston, main seal and a main body. When your struts fail, the internal dampening value or main shaft seal stops working. This results in the shock oil leaking out.

Rattling

When your struts give out, youll notice loose rattling sounds in your car while driving, especially when you go over bumps in the road. This happens when the inside parts of the struts strike the outside of the struts.

Power assisted steering is a mechanism which enables a driver to steer a vehicle more easily. It consists of five parts, including the power steering pump, steering wheel, steering rack, speed sensor and steering fluid. While the complete failure of a power steering is small, owing to the large number of parts involved, things can go wrong. If you know the symptoms, you can avoid costly repairs in the future by identifying the problems early on.

Fluid Color

Power steering fluid is pumped around the system to assist with the turning of a wheels. It withstands up to 1,200 lbs. of pressure, while it flows through the mechanism. The color of the fluid can indicate problems. As old fluid oxidises, it changes from red to dark grey or black. The fluid may also have bubbles in it, indicating an air leakage into the system. Finally, loose debris might be carried in it. Look at the steering fluid for these symptoms, which will show a damaged power steering system.

Fluid Leakages

It is important that there is a constant high level of steering fluid in the vehicles power steering system. This is the blood of the system, if it runs low it indicates that there is a leakage within the system. This symptom shows that there must be a hole in a pipe, or a connection is out of line, and theore causing the fluid to drip out.

Difficultly Steering

As a driver, you may notice changes in the power steering while you drive the vehicle. Instead of applying little force to the steering wheel as you turn corners, the steering might become more difficult--like a manual system. Jumpy steering may also be experienced. This is a sign of a malfunctioning drive belt, caused by excessive heat being generated. Alternatively, the drive belt may lack tension and is sliding out of place.

Unusual Noises

Squeaking, clunking or squealing noises are symptoms of power steering problems. The unusual noises can be caused by a slipping drive belt, which has become out of shape. Alternatively, it could be the steering pump, which is failing. If this is the case, you will hear strange noises when you turn corners. Listen to the sounds coming from the car to assess this.

Most newer vehicles, be they cars, trucks or SUVs, come standard with fog lights. These additional headlights are set low in the nose of the vehicle to better illuminate the road directly in front of the vehicle. Fog lights are valuable aides to the improving a drivers vision in foggy, snowy or rainy conditions. Adding euro clear fog lights is a quick and easy repair that personalizes your vehicle and gives it an updated look.

Instructions

1

Park your vehicle in a safe work place. Look for a flat and level surface that has adequate light to work by. Turn off the engine and apply the parking brake.

2

Wait 30 minutes before beginning work to allow the vehicle to cool. Slide underneath the front end of the vehicle and position yourself near the rear of the drivers side fog light.

3

Remove any dust covers or access panels. These can usually be removed by prying them off with a Flathead screwdriver. Once these are removed, locate the wiring harness. The harness will be plugged into the fog light socket. Unplug the harness to access the interior of the fog light assembly.

4

Unscrew the mounting bolts. The bolts hold the assembly in the front bumper of the automobile. On most autos, there will be three bolts which can be removed with a regular wrench. Once the bolts are removed, slide out the old fog light assembly.

5

Insert the euro clear fog light assembly. Place the new assembly into the same place in the bumper from where the old assembly was removed. Attach the mounting bolts, wiring harness and dust cover as they were on the original assembly.

6

Repeat the process for the light on the passengers side.

Water and motor oil are both liquids, but thats about all they have in common. Crude and ined oil contain dozens of different compounds, whereas pure water is composed of just hydrogen and oxygen molecules. However, the density of water can vary depending on whats in it.

Specific Gravity

The easiest way to compare the weights of oil and water is to examine their specific gravities. Specific gravity is a measurement used to compare the relative density of any substance to that of pure water when measured at one atmosphere of pressure (about 14.7 psi). Specific gravity is expressed as a percentage; a substance that has a specific gravity of 0.90 is 90 percent as dense as water, and one with a measurement of 1.10 weighs ten percent more than water. The materials temperature also plays a role, but doesnt affect this comparison much.

Oil vs. Water Density

Pure water is the erence point, so it has a specific gravity of 1.000. Salt is more dense than water, so seawater has a specific gravity of about 1.025, depending on the location. Crude oil density varies by location; "light" crude, such as that from Texas, measures at about 0.876, and heavier oils check in at 0.918. Refined oils, such as 5W-30 motor oil, are a bit lighter, at around 0.861.

Oil vs. Water Weight

Between its freezing point and about 100 degrees Fahrenheit, pure water weighs in at about 8.3 pounds per gallon and seawater weighs about 8.5 pounds (1.025 x 8.3 = 8.50) per gallon. Given their specific gravities, light crude weighs about 7.27 pounds per gallon, heavy crude weighs 7.61 pounds per gallon and ined motor oil checks in at about 7.14 pounds per gallon.

The 2002 Kia Spectras heating control panel is located directly beneath the cars radio. This control panel also has the switch for the Spectras fan controls and air conditioner. If the heating control panel is malfunctioning, you may want to consider replacing it. The first step toward doing so is removing the faulty control panel from the car. The control panel is attached to the Spectras front dash cover.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the Spectras negative battery cable with pliers or a wrench. Inspect the dash to find the two Phillips screws on the underside of the odometer hood.

2

Remove the two Phillips screws. Grasp the dash cover and pull the top edge of it downward to unhook it. The heating control panel will come out with it. Examine the back of the dash cover to view the back of the heating control panel.

3

Unplug the wiring harness from the heating control panel. Around the heating control panels perimeter, youll find four Phillips screws.

4

Remove the four Phillips screws. Pull the heating control panel out of its mount to remove it.

Its a commonly heard anecdote that an easy way to exact expensive vengeance on an enemy is to put sugar in the gas tank of his car. Its assumed the sugar will liquefy in the gasoline, turning it into a gummy, unburnable mess that ultimately destroys the cars fuel system and engine. It turns out that this is an urban myth. Putting sugar in the gas tank may slightly affect the vehicles running, but it is unlikely to do lasting or major damage.

Sugars Reaction With Gasoline

In reality, sugar does not dissolve in gasoline the way it does in water. When poured into the fuel tank, sugar will sink to the bottom and remain solid. If it is picked up by the fuel pump, it is caught by the cars fuel filter, which is designed to keep particulates from reaching the fuel injectors or carburetor where they can do damage.

Damage From Sugared Gasoline

Usually, the worst thing a handful of sugar in a gas tank will do is clog the fuel filter -- a time-consuming repair on some vehicles, but hardly an expensive or incapacitating one. If enough sugar is poured in, the tank itself may need to be removed and cleaned by a mechanic. The worst effect of a sugared gas tank it that it can cause the car to stall and be difficult to restart until the sugar is cleaned out.

Mythbusters

The television show "Mythbusters" put this theory to the test in 2004 by pouring sugar into a cars fuel tank and letting it run. The shows testers reported that the car was not damaged, and in fact ran even better after the tank was sugared! This does not mean that sugar can be considered a performance additive, of course.

Other Fuel Tank Pollutants

Other solid contaminants, like sand, react similarly in gasoline. Sand is less likely to get into the fuel filter because it is heavier than sugar and sinks to the bottom of the tank. A gas tank with sand in it will need to be removed and cleaned, but further damage is unlikely.

Rack and pinion steering is used in many cars. Essentially, the steering wheel turns a round gear -- the pinion -- which in turn moves a straight bar with gear teeth -- the rack -- from side-to-side to turn the wheels. It is a simple arrangement, but it does have some disadvantages.

Leakage

Because of the simplicity of the system, rack and pinion steering requires fewer parts to function properly. However, this places a greater strain on the individual parts, and the wear can cause leakage, requiring replacement of the rack assembly.

Less Durability

When installed in a four-wheel-drive vehicle, rack and pinion steering can cause problems when driving off-road. While this simple system provides responsive handling on paved roads, the greater force required to turn the wheels on drastically uneven ground can cause it to wear out much more quickly.

Vibration

Its simpler construction and reduced number of parts help rack and pinion systems provide more road feel than other steering mechanisms. However, this more intimate connection with the road can also transfer more noise and vibration to the driver and passengers.

The outer fairing blocks the wind. The inner fairing holds the tachometer, speedometer, radio, speakers and ignition. And the fairings on all Harley-Davidson FLHs come apart the same way. The inner fairing on an FLHX is connected to the fairing bracket with pins, or what Harley calls "dowels." You literally pry the components apart with your hands. Before you can do that, you must remove the outer fairing and windshield and disconnect the electrical components. Most, but not all, of the fasteners you will need to remove are T-27 Torx screws.

Instructions

Outer Fairing and Lights

1

Protect the finish on the front of the motorcycle by hanging a throw rug over the front fender. Straddle the fender. Remove the screws in the middle, right and left of the outer fairing just under the windshield with a Torx socket and a socket wrench.

2

Put an extension on the socket, straddle the seat and remove the Torx screws just outside and below the speakers.

3

Push the handlebars all the way right and use the same wrench, extension and socket to remove the screw just below the left fairing cap. Push the handlebars all the way to the left and remove the screw under the right fairing cap.

4

Push the fairing forward far enough to reach the wiring harness connection on the back of the headlight assembly. Disconnect the headlight by squeezing the sides of the connector with your fingers.

5

Straddle the front fender again and pull the front fairing with the headlight off the motorcycle. Remove the windshield. Set the big pieces aside.

6

Disconnect the front directional signals and passing lamp connectors from the front wiring harness. Remove the passing lamp assembly from the front forks with the same socket, extension and wrench.

Inner Fairing

7

Straddle the seat again and begin to remove the ignition by turning the key left to "unlock" and turning the knob all the way right to "access."

8

Slide a small screwdriver under the left side of the knob and depress the small release button. Turn the key another 60 degrees past "unlock" and pull the knob straight up to expose the switch post and nut.

9

Remove the switch nut with an open-end wrench. Remove the socket and collar from the switch post.

10

Pull the skirt down and off the inner fairing to expose more of the front wiring harness.

11

Slacken the clutch cable by completely loosening the clutch cable adjuster nut and the clutch cable adjuster locknut with two open-end wrenches.

12

Pry the retaining ring on the bottom of the clutch lever housing loose with a small screwdriver. Pull the clutch lever pivot pin out of the top of the clutch housing.

13

Unscrew the lever clutch housing from the left handlebar with a Torx socket and socket wrench. Pull the clutch lever free from the lever housing.

14

Disconnect the clutch cable from the clutch lever and feed the cable through the grommet on the bottom of the inner fairing to the front of the bike.

15

Fashion a matchbook cover into a cardboard shim that is between 1/8 inch and 5/32 inch thick. Put the shim between the front brake lever and housing to protect the stoplight switch.

16

Loosen the right handlebar switch housing screws and front master cylinder screws with a Torx socket and a socket wrench. Remove the switch housing and master cylinder.

17

Slide the throttle off the right end of the handlebar and remove the two throttle cables. Feed the throttle cables through the grommet on the bottom of the inner fairing to the front of the bike.

18

Disconnect the cigarette lighter from the wiring harness. Straddle the fender again and loosen the speaker adapter screws on both sides of the bike with a Torx socket and socket wrench.

19

Remove the speaker adapters. Disconnect the voltmeter and fuel gauge from the front wiring harness.

20

Pull the lower inner fairing off the mounting dowels on the fork bracket. Pull the fairing bracket off the mounting dowels on the fork bracket.

21

Lift the fairing bracket and inner fairing together to clear the fork bracket. Pull the inner fairing and fairing bracket apart and remove the inner fairing.

Rear bumper dents happen after accidents, and are often difficult to remove. Sometimes the dents are pounded or pulled out with heat. Fixing a dent at home is less expensive than taking the car to a body shop for repair. The entire bumper is frequently replaced if the dent is too severe.

Instructions

1

Wash the dented area of the bumper. Remove all dust, dirt and debris.

2

Turn on the hairdryer; move it in a circular motion over the dent. Do not leave the hairdryer in one spot for more than a few seconds. The dent might pop out after a few minutes.

3

Tap the area around the dent with a hammer. Do not create new dents by hammering too hard. The tapping creates vibration; the combination of vibration and heat frequently pops out dents.

4

Move the hair dryer in a circular motion while lightly hammering. Do this for 10 minutes and the dent might pop out. Repeat the process if the dent remains unaltered.

The Chevrolet Cavalier might have been a pretty decent little car in itself, but a certain malady followed the name wherever it went. Not only was the Cavalier not quite the import-killer that GM had hoped; older buyers had never forgotten that it was essentially a rebadged relative to the worst rebadged travesty in history: the Cadillac Cimarron. The Cobalt that replaced the Cavalier, free of such burdensome history, rose quickly from its 2004 debut to become one of Americas favorite compact cars.

Dash Lights

The 2008 Cobalt, like most modern cars, used a few different dash bulbs. The basic bulbs were single, white LED units from Equus, part number 9903. Part number 9904 was three 9903 bulbs splined into the same harness. The 5-inch Autometer tachometer uses a white, twist-in bulb, part number 3219. The gauges also use a few Autometer-brand, colored LED bulbs: the green LED is part number 3283, the blue is number 3286 and the red LED number 3294.

A timing chain, or belt, is an integral part of an automobiles engine that controls the opening and closing of the valves in the engine. If the chain breaks, serious damage to the engine could result. Proper maintenance is important to prevent this from happening.

Tension

A timing chain can break with either too much or not enough tension. If the chain does not have enough tension, it can develop slack. This can result in the chain "slapping," leading to premature fatigue. A chain with too much tension can also fail, as it is placed under excessive stress. Tension increases friction and heat in the chain, which can result in failure.

Engine Seizure

Engine seizure can be caused by an engine overheating or running out of oil, causing pistons to seize inside the cylinders. If an engine seizes while running at high speeds, the sudden stop can cause a timing chain to break.

Age

The age and number of miles driven on a timing chain are major contributors to failure. The more miles you have on your vehicle, the higher the odds your timing chain will fail, as the chain will become weak and break. Most car manufacturers suggest you have the chain replaced every 60,000 miles.

The catalytic converter is part of a vehicles exhaust system and serves to reduce the amount of toxic gases emitted into the atmosphere. These surprisingly simple components have served to dramatically reduce the amount of vehicle emissions produced over the past few decades. Today, they are installed on all factory-produced vehicles sold in the United States.

History

The Engelhard Corporation invented the first production-ready catalytic converter in 1973. A couple years later, the Environmental Protection Agency introduced more stringent regulations relating to vehicle emissions. Confronted with these new requirements, auto manufacturers quickly embraced the new earth-friendly product. The 1975 vehicle model year was the first time that the catalytic converter came pre-installed on new cars.

Effects

The first catalytic converters on the road were known as 2-way catalytic converters. Cars with such technology are capable of converting hazardous carbon monoxide to harmless carbon dioxide. They also break down toxic hydrocarbons into carbon dioxide and water. In 1981, 3-way catalytic converters became commonplace. Cars with this newer technology are also capable of reducing nitrogen oxides to regular nitrogen and oxygen.

Function

The catalytic converter converts toxic gases to harmless gases via a platinum-iridium catalyst. As the hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide pass through this catalyst, the gases are oxidized. This causes them to break down into less toxic elements. Nitrogen oxides require a separate process, known as reduction, to eliminate toxicity.

Considerations

The catalytic converter is typically situated below the front passenger seat, between the engine and the rear exhaust. In order to function properly, the combustion chamber must be fed the correct ratio of gasoline to oxygen. If too much oxygen or gasoline is introduced, excessive hydrocarbons and other toxic gases will be produced. These extra particles make it hard for the catalytic converter to keep up with the inefficiency of the engine. To eliminate such a scenario, most modern-day vehicles feature fuel injection and oxygen sensors to monitor the oxygen-to-gas ratio entering the combustion chamber.

Potential

Though catalytic converters have been integral in reducing vehicle emissions, there is still more that can be done. The biggest downside to catalytic converters is that they require a great deal of heat to function properly. This heat is generated by the engine, but it takes several minutes after you turn your car on before the catalytic converter becomes effective. Currently, engineers are tinkering with ways to speed up the heating process so that vehicle emissions are cleaned by the catalytic converter during these first minutes of vehicle operation.