So Fix it

Peel off any thick portions of the threadlock from the nut, using a pair of small tweezers to gain access to the threads.

Apply a liberal amount of comparable threadlocker to the threaded portion of the nut. Allow the applied compound to soak into the threads and soften the old hardened threadlock.

Wipe off the threadlock, using a clean shop rag or paper towel. Put on a pair of thick leather gloves and clean out the remaining threadlocker with a sharp hobby knife. If any residue remains on the threads, move on to the next steps.

Secure the nut with a C-clamp or bench vice. Apply heat to the nut, using a lighter or propane torch. Do not operate the lighter or torch around flammable liquids, gasses or solid materials. Heat the nut until the hardened threadlock turns to ash.

Allow the nut to cool sufficiently. Remove the nut from the clamp and clean out any remaining residue from the threads, using the hobby knife. Wipe off the outside portion of the nut with a clean towel to complete the process.

Peel off any thick portions of the threadlock from the nut, using a pair of small tweezers to gain access to the threads.

Apply a liberal amount of comparable threadlocker to the threaded portion of the nut. Allow the applied compound to soak into the threads and soften the old hardened threadlock.

Wipe off the threadlock, using a clean shop rag or paper towel. Put on a pair of thick leather gloves and clean out the remaining threadlocker with a sharp hobby knife. If any residue remains on the threads, move on to the next steps.

Secure the nut with a C-clamp or bench vice. Apply heat to the nut, using a lighter or propane torch. Do not operate the lighter or torch around flammable liquids, gasses or solid materials. Heat the nut until the hardened threadlock turns to ash.

Allow the nut to cool sufficiently. Remove the nut from the clamp and clean out any remaining residue from the threads, using the hobby knife. Wipe off the outside portion of the nut with a clean towel to complete the process.

Remove the drive shaft from the vehicle.

Remove the snap rings over all four U-joint bearing caps by putting the tips of an inside snap ring pliers into the holes in the snap ring, squeezing the handle of the pliers to compress the snap ring, and pulling the snap ring away from the bearing cap. Clean all grease and grime off the U-joint bearing caps with a shop rag.

Choose the appropriate size receiver cup and anvil from a C-clamp U-joint press kit. Slip the receiver cup into the large hole at one end of the C-clamp. Slide the anvil onto the end of the threaded pressure shaft at the other end of the C-clamp.

Position the U-joint press so the receiver cup is over one cap in the yoke and the pressure shaft is on the opposite cap. Turn the pressure shaft clockwise by hand until the C-clamp is snug.

Fit an adjustable wrench to the hex head on the end of the pressure shaft. Rotate the pressure shaft clockwise with the wrench until the bearing cap on the opposite side pushes out into the receiver cup. Turn the pressure shaft counterclockwise until the C-clamp is free of the yoke.

Rotate the drive shaft 180 degrees. Install the C-clamp as before with the pressure shaft on the solid portion of the U-joint. Turn the shaft as before to force the other bearing cap out of the yoke.

Remove the yoke from the solid portion of the drive shaft by pushing the yoke to one side, tilting the other side away from the drive shaft and lifting it off the solid portion of the U-joint.

Rotate the drive shaft 90 degrees in either direction.

Remove the other two U-joint bearing caps from the drive shaft in the same manner as the first two bearing caps.

Move the solid portion of the U-joint to either side in the drive shaft. Tip the opposite side away from the drive shaft and lift it out, completing the removal of the rusty U-joint.

Wash the dented area of the bumper. Remove all dust, dirt and debris.

Turn on the hairdryer; move it in a circular motion over the dent. Do not leave the hairdryer in one spot for more than a few seconds. The dent might pop out after a few minutes.

Tap the area around the dent with a hammer. Do not create new dents by hammering too hard. The tapping creates vibration; the combination of vibration and heat frequently pops out dents.

Move the hair dryer in a circular motion while lightly hammering. Do this for 10 minutes and the dent might pop out. Repeat the process if the dent remains unaltered.

Drive your car with a malfunctioning oxygen sensor. This can cause thermal failure, which means that excess raw fuels are making their way, in large quantities, to your catalytic converter.

Drive around in a car that has a starter or engine that misfires. This can also cause thermal failure of the catalytic converter.

Drive around in a car with old spark plugs that are prone to misfiring. This too can cause burnout.

Call your local police or sheriffs department or a professional locksmith or towing company. All are equipped with the necessary tools to open your Tahoes doors without damaging your locks.

Inform the representative on the phone of your vehicles location and ask to have someone sent out right away to retrieve your car keys for you.

Provide the tow truck driver/locksmith/law enforcement officer with proof of your identity and ownership of the vehicle. You can do this by presenting your drivers license along with your title, registration or insurance card. If you generally keep your vehicle information in your glove compartment, explain your situation, and you will be permitted to retrieve your information once your doors are unlocked.

Pay for any services rendered. Police and sheriffs officers dont charge for helping you break into your own car.

Drive your vehicle to a safe location where you can perform an isolated road test. This could be a large, empty parking lot or a remote street without pedestrians and cars. Youll need to read a scan tool while the vehicle is moving, so its important to be in a safe testing location.

Connect an ABS-capable scan tool to the vehicles diagnostic port and turn on the scan tool. Navigate to the ABS menu and select the Live Feed function. Your scan tool may have the Live Feed menu labeled as something different, but youll need to find the menu or setting that allows you to read the live data from the wheel speed sensors.

Drive the car forward and accelerate to 15 miles per hour. Glance down at the scan tool and make sure that all of the wheel speed sensors show the same 15 miles per hour reading as the speedometer inside the vehicle. If one of the sensors shows 0, Zero or N/A, then that sensor is not providing the computer with a wheel speed value.

Return home and park inside your garage. Turn off the engine and raise the end, front or rear, of the vehicle that has the bad wheel sensor. Support it with jack stands and chock the wheels on the opposite end. Apply the parking brake, if the opposite end is the rear of the vehicle.

Crawl underneath the vehicle and locate the wheel speed sensor that wasnt responding. Use a work light to inspect the wiring harness and for cuts, frays and other damage.

Disconnect the wheel speed sensors electrical connector and turn the ignition to the ON position. Measure the voltage at the sensors electrical connector with a digital multimeter. Look up the specified value in a service manual and compare that to the value on your digital multimeter. If the value is correct, and the wires arent frayed or damage, then the sensor is bad and must be replaced.