So Fix it

Threadlock compound is a paste-like or liquid substance designed to seal the threads of metallic nuts and bolts. After applying threadlocker compound to the threads of a bolt, the substance will harden, providing an airtight and waterproof seal. Many automotive, industrial and hobby applications call for the use of threadlocker during assembly and repair tasks associated with certain components. Removing this hardened compound from a nut is an easy task, with the correct tools and supplies available.

Instructions

1

Peel off any thick portions of the threadlock from the nut, using a pair of small tweezers to gain access to the threads.

2

Apply a liberal amount of comparable threadlocker to the threaded portion of the nut. Allow the applied compound to soak into the threads and soften the old hardened threadlock.

3

Wipe off the threadlock, using a clean shop rag or paper towel. Put on a pair of thick leather gloves and clean out the remaining threadlocker with a sharp hobby knife. If any residue remains on the threads, move on to the next steps.

4

Secure the nut with a C-clamp or bench vice. Apply heat to the nut, using a lighter or propane torch. Do not operate the lighter or torch around flammable liquids, gasses or solid materials. Heat the nut until the hardened threadlock turns to ash.

5

Allow the nut to cool sufficiently. Remove the nut from the clamp and clean out any remaining residue from the threads, using the hobby knife. Wipe off the outside portion of the nut with a clean towel to complete the process.

Threadlock compound is a paste-like or liquid substance designed to seal the threads of metallic nuts and bolts. After applying threadlocker compound to the threads of a bolt, the substance will harden, providing an airtight and waterproof seal. Many automotive, industrial and hobby applications call for the use of threadlocker during assembly and repair tasks associated with certain components. Removing this hardened compound from a nut is an easy task, with the correct tools and supplies available.

Instructions

1

Peel off any thick portions of the threadlock from the nut, using a pair of small tweezers to gain access to the threads.

2

Apply a liberal amount of comparable threadlocker to the threaded portion of the nut. Allow the applied compound to soak into the threads and soften the old hardened threadlock.

3

Wipe off the threadlock, using a clean shop rag or paper towel. Put on a pair of thick leather gloves and clean out the remaining threadlocker with a sharp hobby knife. If any residue remains on the threads, move on to the next steps.

4

Secure the nut with a C-clamp or bench vice. Apply heat to the nut, using a lighter or propane torch. Do not operate the lighter or torch around flammable liquids, gasses or solid materials. Heat the nut until the hardened threadlock turns to ash.

5

Allow the nut to cool sufficiently. Remove the nut from the clamp and clean out any remaining residue from the threads, using the hobby knife. Wipe off the outside portion of the nut with a clean towel to complete the process.

Catalytic converters, also called "cats," absorb exhaust heat, and should, ideally, be as close as possible to the exhaust manifold for emissions compliance. This placement varies by make and model and can have a significant impact on performance.

The Y-Pipe

V-type engines often use y-shaped pieces of tubing to join the cylinder banks exhaust streams before entering into the converter. Converters are often bolted right to the back of this Y-pipe.

Direct Connection

Many manufacturers, such as Honda and Toyota, are becoming known for bolting the catalytic converters right to the exhaust manifold outlet, with nothing in between.

Down Tubes

Most turbocharged engines use a down tube, which is a smooth piece of tubing that allows a turbos exhaust flow to move away smoothly, before encountering the restrictive cat.

Oxygen Sensor

All new vehicles have an oxygen (O2) sensor somewhere between the exhaust manifold and cat. This works in conjunction with an after-cat O2 sensor to notify the engine control computer of any converter malfunction.

Exhaust Brakes

Large diesel trucks often have a large valve in between the cat and manifold, known as an exhaust or "Jacobs" brake. When closed, these valves create back pressure in the engine and allow a driver to control downhill acceleration without using the foot brake.

An engines firing order is the sequence that each cylinder is used in power delivery. The firing order for the 6.6L turbo diesel V8 in the 2004 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 2WD is 1-2-7-8-4-5-6-3.

Gasoline Versus Diesel

In a gasoline engine, the distributor or Engine Control Unit sends electricity to individual spark plugs to ignite fuel in each cylinder in a specific order. In a diesel engine it is determined by the order in which fuel is injected into each cylinder.

Cylinder 1

Engine firing orders always start with cylinder number one, which on this engine is located at the front left of the engine from the drivers point of view.

Cylinder Banks

GM V8 cylinders are numbered 1-3-5-7 on the left (drivers) side of the engine, and 2-4-6-8 on the right (passenger) side.

Most likely you have multiple oxygen sensors in your Jeep Cherokee. Figuring out which one needs to be replaced will be more challenging than actually replacing it. A code reader can condemn and position a particular oxygen sensor, but since the sensors average around $75 or more a piece, you might consider leaving the code reading up to a professional. Most parts stores that sell quality direct-fit oxygen sensors usually have code readers and can find out the information for you at no charge as long as you purchase the part you need from them.
Once you have the required information and tools, you can change the oxygen sensor on your vehicle.

Instructions

How to Change the Oxygen Sensor to a Jeep Cherokee

1

Locate the oxygen sensor that needs to be replaced. The very first sensor is in the manifold and can be accessed under the hood on the drivers side of the engine. The rest will have to be accessed from under the vehicle in the exhaust system. There is one at the rear of the manifold in the front exhaust pipe, another in the pipe going to the catalytic converter on the passenger side under the Jeep.

2

Raise the front of the Jeep if necessary by driving it up on car ramps. Apply the parking brake and place a wheel chock behind one of the rear tires. Crawl underneath on a creeper (if you have one) with the tools and the new sensor.

3

Put on the safety glasses.

4

Spray WD-40 on the threads of the oxygen sensor and allow it to soak in. Be caul the engine is not too hot when replacing the sensors, especially the very front one up in the manifold.

5

Follow the wire of the oxygen sensor to the plug and unplug it. You can use the screwdriver to press in and release the clip lock.

6

Remove the oxygen sensor with the oxygen sensor socket and ratchet. If it is stubborn, you may want to try and heat the pipe area up with the hand torch to expand the pipe. Once the sensor is loosed from the threads, allow the pipe to cool down if you had to use the torch.

7

Remove the old oxygen sensor.

8

Screw in the new oxygen sensor and make sure there is a coating of anti-seize lubricant on the threads. Most quality direct-fit after-market sensors will already have a coating applied to them. This will make future extraction a little easier.

9

Tighten the sensor with the socket and ratchet, but be caul not to over-tighten. If you strip the threads of the sensor, youre going to have to buy another one.

10

Plug the wire back into the plug.

11

Remove the tools and lower the Cherokee and/or close the hood.

The Jeep Grand Cherokee grille is attached to the its reinforcement at the front of the vehicle, making it more rigid and increasing its durability. The grille is constructed from plastic and can crack or break with an impact, necessitating replacement of the grille itself. Replacement grilles can be purchased at your local dealership. You might be able to obtain a good used part from a salvage yard, however, and save yourself a significant amount of money.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your Grand Cherokee and locate the two bolts on the top of the radiator support that secure the grille to its reinforcement and radiator support.

2

Remove the two upper mounting bolts from the grille with a 10-millimeter socket and ratchet. Set the bolts aside.

3

Locate the retaining screws on the front of the grille. There are three screws inside the vertical slats of the grille.

4

Remove the retaining screws from the front of the grille with a Phillips screwdriver and remove the grille from the front of the Jeep.

The Ford 5.4-liter engine is a V-8 engine with aluminum cylinder heads. It appears in various Ford vehicles made since 1997, such as the F-Series of pickup trucks. The 5.4-liter engine has a pair of cylinder heads, one on each side of the engine. The head gasket lies between the cylinder head and the engine block, and makes a tight seal between the two components. The procedure for replacing the cylinder head gaskets is generally the same for both gaskets.

Instructions

1

Evacuate the air-conditioning system with the appropriate evacuating equipment. This step requires a mechanic licensed by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA).

2

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to prevent the engine from starting during the head gasket replacement. Remove the covers for the cylinder head, and disconnect the intake manifold from the engine block. Detach the timing chains from their sprockets, and remove both exhaust manifolds from the engine block.

3

Remove the retaining bolts from the heater hose on the engine block with a socket wrench. Release the hose clamp by squeezing it together and sliding it down the hose. Detach the hose from the engine block. Detach any additional cables, electrical connectors and hoses that restrict your access to the cylinder head.

4

Disconnect the mounting bolts from the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Detach the cylinder head from the engine block. Remove the head gasket from the engine block and discard it. Remove any traces of the gasket from the cylinder head and engine block with a gasket scraper.

5

Turn the crankshaft clockwise by hand so that the key way on the crankshaft is in the 12 oclock position. Place the new gasket for the cylinder head over the dowel pins on the engine block. Mount the cylinder head over the dowel pins, so that the head is on top of the gasket.

6

Install new mounting bolts to the cylinder head by hand. Tighten the bolts to 30 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Tighten the mounting bolts for the cylinder head an additional 85 to 95 degrees on the second pass. Tighten the mounting bolts an additional 85 to 95 degrees on the third pass.

7

Connect the heater hose to the cylinder head, and fasten its retaining bolts with a socket wrench. Slide the hose clamp in place to secure the hose. Attach the exhaust manifolds to the engine block, and mount the timing chains to their sprockets. Connect the intake manifold to the engine block.

8

Attach the covers for the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Connect all additional electrical connectors, cables and hoses you removed to obtain access to the cylinder head.

9

Recharge the air-conditioning system with the appropriate equipment. This step requires a mechanic licensed by the EPA.

10

Fill the engine oil and coolant to their proper levels. Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Start the engine and check for fluid leaks.

The Acura TL is a luxury sports car in production since 1996. The 2002 model is a second generation Acura, which includes the 1999 through 2003 models. The standard engine for all second generation Acuras in North America is a six-cylinder, 3.2-liter engine with a double overhead camshaft. The timing belt synchronizes the crankshaft with the camshafts, so the cylinder valves open and close at the right time.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable for the negative battery terminal and the ignition coil cover with a socket wrench.

2

Place a cushion such as a wooden board on top of a floor jack. Place the floor jack under the oil pan, and raise the vehicle. Remove the front wheel assemblies with a lug wrench. Disconnect the splash shield under the vehicle and remove the accessory drive belts from their respective pulleys.

3

Lower the vehicle with the floor jack and raise it slightly to take the weight of the engine off the engine mounts. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the side mount on the front of the engine, and remove the side mount. Remove the bolt for the dipstick tube with a socket wrench, and detach the tube from the engine.

4

Rotate the crankshaft clockwise to align the white timing mark on the crankshaft pulley with the pointer on the lower rear timing belt cover. The timing marks on the camshaft pulleys must also align with their respective timing marks on the upper rear timing belt cover.

5

Hold the crankshaft pulley in place with Holder Attachment Tool 07MAB-PY3010A. Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt with a socket wrench and a 19mm socket. Pull the crankshaft pulley from its shaft with Holder Attachment Tool 07MAB-PY3010A.

6

Disconnect a bolt for a battery clamp with a socket wrench. Grind a 45-degree bevel on the threaded end of the bolt. Screw the bolt into the hole in the right cylinder head by hand to hold the adjuster for the timing belt in place. Disconnect the engine mount bracket. Turn the mounting bolt for the idler pulley five turns counterclockwise with a socket wrench, and detach the timing belt.

7

Disconnect the spark plugs. Turn the crankshaft sprocket clockwise to align the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket with the timing mark on the oil pump. The timing mark on the camshaft pulleys must also align with their respective timing marks on the rear timing belt covers.

8

Disconnect the battery clamp bolt with a socket wrench and replace it into its original hole. Remove the timing belt tensioner and place it into a soft-jawed vise with the maintenance bolt pointed up. Remove the maintenance bolt with a socket wrench. Place Stopper Tool 14540-P8A-A01 onto the tensioner to maintain the tension setting. Turn the screw inside the maintenance hole clockwise with a flat-blade screwdriver to compress the bottom of the tensioner.

9

Replace the gasket for the maintenance bolt on the timing belt tensioner and tighten the bolt to 6 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Install the tensioner and tighten its mounting bolts to 33 ft. lbs.

10

Mount the new timing belt to the crankshaft sprocket, idler pulley, left camshaft sprocket, water pump pulley, right camshaft sprocket and adjusting pulley in that order. Remove Stopper Tool 14540-P8A-A01 from the timing belt tensioner.

11

Install the bolts for the engine side mount with a torque wrench. Tighten the No. 10 bolts to 33 ft. lbs., and tighten the No. 6 bolts to 104 in. lbs. Connect the timing belt covers with a socket wrench. Install the crankshaft pulley with Holder Attachment tool 07MAB-PY3010A. Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt with a torque wrench and a 19mm socket to 181 ft. lbs.

12

Turn the crankshaft five complete turns clockwise to position the timing belt, and align the timing marks. Connect the dipstick tube, accessory drive belts, splash shield and front wheel assemblies. Lower the vehicle and replace the ignition coil cover. Attach the cable to the negative battery terminal.

Shock is a medical condition that often occurs due to some sort of trauma. According to the National Institute of General Medical Sciences, shock, also known as circulatory collapse, sets in when the blood pressure in a persons arteries is too low to supply adequate blood to his organs and tissues. In a state of shock, a persons skin becomes cold and sweaty and his pulse becomes weak. Breathing becomes irregular, the mouth becomes dry and pupils dilate.

Septic Shock

Septic shock results from microorganisms entering the bloodstream. Anything that introduces bacteria into the blood stream can cause septic shock. This condition causes immune chemicals to be released into your bloodstream to fight the infection and triggers widespread inflammation, leading to blood clots and leaky vessels, according to a description of the condition by National Institute of General Medical Sciences. The condition deprives the body of blood flow and damages the bodys organs. An extreme form of this reaction results in septic shock and could cause death. People with chronic illnesses such as diabetes and kidney or liver disease face a higher than average risk of septic shock.(see erence 1)

Anaphylactic Shock

Anaphylactic shock is caused by a severe allergy reaction. This results from an anaphylaxis reaction that could set in within minutes or seconds of your exposure to something you are allergic to, such as milk or peanuts, as MayoClinic.com explains. A flood of chemicals is released by your immune system during an anaphylaxis reaction. This could cause you to go into shock as your blood pressure drops and your airways become too narrow to allow normal breathing. (see erence 2)

Cardiogenic Shock

When the heart is too weak to pump enough blood to meet the needs of the body, the result could be a cardiogenic shock. Damage to the heart muscle from a severe heart attack is the most common form of cardiogenic shock, according to the National Heart Lung and Blood Institute. Not everyone who has a heart attack goes into cardiogenic shock as a result though. Only about seven percent of people who experience heart attack go into cardiogenic shock. (see erence 3)

If you plan to remove the oil seal in the rear axle housing of your Jeep Grand Cherokee, it helps to have a seal puller. Rental pullers are available at many auto parts stores and will help prevent damage to the pinion shaft. The oil seal is in the housing where the pinion shaft passes through the differential and keeps the oil from running out of your axle. Replacement seals are available from Jeep or most auto parts stores.

Instructions

1

Raise the rear of your Jeep with a jack and support the truck with a set of jack stands under the rear axle. Locate the pinion yoke, where the axle and driveshaft meet. Place an alignment mark on the yoke and the driveshaft with a paint pen for use later.

2

Remove the four 10-millimeter bolts from the pinion yoke with a wrench, then separate the drive shaft from the yoke. Caully set the drive shaft aside.

3

Locate the pinion nut in the center of the pinion yoke. Install a large socket and breaker bar on the nut and rotate it counterclockwise. Remove the nut and washer from the shaft.

4

Remove the pinion yoke from the shaft with a yoke puller. If you do not have a puller, you can rent one from many auto parts stores. If you cannot find a puller, heating the yoke with an oxyacetylene torch will allow it to swell and come loose. Caully slide it off the shaft.

5

Place an oil drain pan under the pinion shaft to catch any oil that might seep from the differential when you remove the seal.

6

Place the seal puller over the shaft and engage the arms with the inside edge of the seal. Turn the puller counterclockwise with a socket and ratchet, pulling the seal from the bore.

Jeep Wranglers are equipped with hydraulic clutches. There are two components to a hydraulic clutch system, a master cylinder and slave cylinder. When you push on the clutch with your foot the master cylinder pushes hydraulic fluid down a line to the slave cylinder. The slave cylinder then pushes the clutch lever, opening and closing the clutch. Master cylinders have a tendency to lose pressure over time and need to be changed.

Instructions

1

Remove the clutch master cylinder cap. It is bolted to the firewall at the highest point above the steering column. Suck out all the fluid with the syringe.

2

Disconnect the hydraulic line coming into the cylinder with a 3/8-inch open end wrench.

3

Remove the upper and lower master cylinder mounting nuts with the 1/2-inch wrench.

4

Lean under the dashboard on the inside of the cab. Trace the clutch pedal up to the point where it meets the lever coming in from the master cylinder. The pedal is joined to the lever with a cotter pin. Pull out the cotter pin with pliers. Using your fingers, disconnect the pedal from the lever by pulling it to the side.

5

Pull the cylinder free from the firewall. Insert the new cylinder. Screw both cylinder mounting bolts back into the firewall securing the cylinder to the firewall. Screw the 3/8-inch hydraulic line onto the new cylinder.

6

Lean under the dashboard. Connect the clutch pedal to the master cylinder lever coming in through the firewall. Insert the cotter pin.

7

Fill the master cylinder with hydraulic fluid but leave the cap off. Get into the vehicle and pump the brake several times until the brakes have sufficient resistance. You will be able to feel the brake get stiff as any air escapes when you are pumping the brakes. Put the cap back on the master cylinder.

The belt that operates the engine accessories on the Chevrolet Aveo is a single accessory belt. The accessory belt routes around all of the accessory pulleys at once. As the engine runs, the crankshaft turns the belt around all of the pulleys. This process makes it possible for the single belt to operate each of the accessories at the same time. If the belt begins to fray or crack, replace it with a new belt before the belt breaks. If the belt breaks, all of the engine accessories will stop working.

Instructions

1

Park the Chevrolet Aveo, and open the hood. Turn the steering wheel to the far right, and turn the engine off. This will give you enough room to access the belt tensioner pulley from the front passenger side wheel well. Set the parking brake.

2

Locate the belt routing diagram on the top of the fan shroud. You will use the routing instructions from this diagram to route the new belt around all of the engine accessories. Lower the hood.

3

Jack the front end of the Chevrolet Aveo up, and slide the jack stands under the proper front jacking points. Lower the car onto the top of the stands.

4

Move to the front passenger side wheel well. Remove the plastic guard from the back of the wheel well by removing the 10-mm bolts and nuts with a ratchet and a 10-mm socket. Pull the guard out of the wheel well, and place it on the ground.

5

Locate the belt tensioner near the bottom center of the engine. The tensioner has a pulley attached to the bottom of the tensioner arm. Use a breaker bar and a 14-mm socket to turn the tensioner.

6

Rotate the tensioner clockwise from the bolt head in the middle of the tensioner pulley with a breaker bar and a 14-mm socket. Once the tension is off of the belt, slide the belt off of the tensioner pulley and the other accessory pulleys. Pull the belt out through the wheel well.

7

Route the new belt through the wheel well and around each of the engine accessories as directed by the belt routing diagram.

8

Rotate the tensioner clockwise with the breaker bar and 14-mm socket again. Slide the new belt around the tensioner pulley, and release the breaker bar. Pull the breaker bar and socket off of the tensioner and out through the wheel well. Inspect the belt to ensure it is inside of each pulley.

9

Crank the engine, and inspect the new belt to make sure that it stays seated inside of each pulley. Turn the engine off. Reinstall the guard to the back of the wheel well, and tighten the bolt and nuts with the ratchet and 10-mm socket.

10

Jack the Chevrolet Aveo back up and remove the jack stands. Lower the car to the ground and remove the jack.

You can adjust the parking brake on your 1995 Ford Mustang right from your driveway or garage. Doing so will save you time and money. You can test whether or not your parking brake needs an adjustment by positioning it downhill and trying to hold the vehicle in place using only the parking brake. If it doesnt hold and the Mustang starts to slip, you need to adjust it. The good news is that it takes only one simple tool that you probably already have at home.

Instructions

1

Find the center console cover and remove it by pressing the release levers on the sides and pulling up on it. This is located between the front passengers seat and the drivers seat.

2

Lift up the parking brake handle four clicks.

3

Find the adjuster nut at the end of the cable rod. Loosen the nut with the pliers but take care that the nut doesnt fall off.

4

Lower the parking brake lever all the way. Turn the nut with the pliers until it is very close to the parking brake handle.

5

Lift up the parking brake handle to its highest position, then lower it all the way to the lowest position. Do this four times. This will set the brake adjustment.

6

Put the center console cover back in place.

7

Test the parking brake adjustment by positioning the vehicle on a downward facing slope and try to hold the Mustang in place using only the parking brake. If it holds the vehicle in place, then you have done the adjustment correctly.

A Honda Civic will alert you every 10,000 miles that it is time to perform standard maintenance. When this happens, a light will come on in the instrument panel. If you take the car to a Honda dealer for service, the mechanic will reset the light for you. However, if you perform system maintenance on your Honda Civic by yourself you must reset the maintenance indicator manually, using your ignition key.

Instructions

1

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "On" position but dont start the vehicle. Find the trip meter button located near the bottom of the dashboards instrument panel.

2

Press the trip meter button and hold it down for 10 or more seconds.

3

Continue to press the trip meter button and turn the ignition key to start the car. Wait for the light to turn off.

The fuel pump to your Saturn is what pressurizes the gasoline in the fuel tank and sends it to the fuel injectors and then to the engine to burn. If you are experiencing problems while driving your Saturn, such as sudden bursts of acceleration when pressing on the gas pedal steady or if the fuel pump is making noise and/or leaking, then the pump may be faulty and need replacing. This is a task that requires additional and more advanced knowledge about automotive repair, specifically in fuel and exhaust systems.

Instructions

Removing the Fuel Pump/Level Sensor Module

1

Relieve your Saturns fuel pressure system. Remove the fuel cap to equalize the pressure in the fuel tank.

2

Remove the negative cable from the battery.

3

Raise your Saturn with the jack and support it with jack stands.

4

Remove the fuel tank from under your Saturn. The tank must be as empty as possible, which may require some siphoning (with a siphoning kit).

5

Pinch together the legs of the retainers on the supply and return fuel lines with your needle-nose pliers. Pull the fittings from the fuel pump/level sensor module. Use a shop rag for any spilled fuel.

6

Mark on the fuel pump and on the fuel tank its exact position in the tank. Make sure these indicators align.

7

Unscrew the modules locknut counter-clockwise with your large channel locks. You may need to loosen the locknut using a hammer and a brass (not steel) punch.

8

Take out the module through the mounting hole. Be caul not to abruptly pull on the module, potentially breaking off the float or float arm into the fuel tank.

9

Check the O-ring seal on the mounting flange and replace if damaged.

Installing the New Fuel Pump/Level Sensor Module

10

Mark the new module on the same areas you marked on the old module to erence its position in the fuel tank.

11

Install the new fuel pump/level sensor module into the mounting hole of the fuel tank with care. Do not harm the fuel inlet strainer, float arm and float while inserting the module. Line up the markings you made on the module and fuel tank.

12

Install and screw on the modules locknut. Tighten it down with your channel locks.

13

Connect the fuel supply and return lines to the module. Check that they are secure on the module by lightly twisting and tugging them.

14

Install the fuel tank back under your Saturn.

15

Pour the fuel from the gas can into the filler hole. Install and tighten the fuel cap.

16

Reconnect the negative cable on the battery.

17

Remove the jack stands and lower your Saturn.

The car alarm on your 1997 Honda CR-V can be very annoying if you are trying to replace your battery or make a repair to the vehicle. You can disable the car alarm in your 1997 Honda CR-V by taking the negative lead off of your battery. This takes the electrical power away from the alarm and leaves it dead. Once the valet switch is enabled, the car alarm will be disabled, allowing you to make your repair.

Instructions

1

Pop the hood to your Honda CR-V.

2

Locate the battery under the hood. This is to the right of the engine.

3

Determine which of the leads is the negative lead. The negative lead will have a "-" sign next to it.

4

Loosen the terminal with a socket wrench.

5

Pull the negative lead off of the battery to disable the car alarm.

Woods and Bush Hog are separate companies that make farm implements and tractor attachments, including brush mowers that are designed to be towed behind tractors. Woods headquarters is in Oregon, Illinois. Bush Hog is located in Selma, Alabama. Changing blades on one of these mowers is both straightforward and difficult. Removing and reinstalling the blade bolt nut stumps some owners. This might help. Use a long wrench handle. Remember that torque is always expressed in foot pounds. So, an easy 45 pound pull on a 10 foot handle equals 450 foot pounds. These instructions are specific to the Bush Hog 280 Series. Some blade bolt nuts may be as small as 1 5/16 inch.

Instructions

1

Raise the Bush Hog cutter and securely lock it in position with wood blocks.

2

Remove the nuts from the blade bolts, using a 1 11/16 inch socket through the access hole in the deck. Use a socket adapter if necessary, a socket extension, a breaker bar and a steel pipe extension. Slip the steel pipe extension over the breaker bar to gain leverage. If you need to, heat the nut with a propane torch to loosen it.

3

Inspect the blade bolt shoulder for wear. Replace the blade bolt shoulder if necessary.

4

Assemble new blades to the blade holder, using blade bolts, nuts and lock washers.

5

Calculate the torque at the blade bolt nut by first measuring the distance from the torque wrench head to the handle with a steel tape. Slip a steel pipe extension of a known length over the torque wrench handle and calculate the torque using a longer handle. For example, tripling the length of the wrench triples the torque in foot pounds.

6

Tighten the nuts to 450 foot pounds of torque using a 1 11/16 inch socket, a socket extension, a 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch socket adapter and a steel pipe extension. Strike the blade bolt heads with a maul or a similar heavy hammer.

7

Retighten the blade bolts to 450 foot pounds of torque.

8

Spin the blades to ensure that they swing freely throughout an entire rotation. If the blades do not swing freely, remove them, locate the problem and repair.

9

Lower the Bush Hog.

Some questions are harder to answer than others; what is the meaning of life, why do things in movies and video games always happen in threes, and why is it so hard to find an engine mount removal procedure for a late-90s Escort or Escort ZX2? Maybe Ford thought Mazda or Kia -- who both used the "B" platform -- were supposed to cover the Escort. And probably vice-versa. Fortunately, aside from the torque specs, the actual procedure is much like the mount replacement procedures for every other four-cylinder ever produced.

Instructions

1

Place a set of chocks behind the rear wheels, set the parking brake, and lift the front end of your car just enough that you can fit under it. Youll be using your floor jack to support the engine from underneath, and youll be in a precarious position if you place the engine out of reach of the jack.

2

Identify the engine mount the you want to replace. There are four: the top motor mounts on the driver- and passenger-side of the car, and the lower front and rear motor mounts. The fact that this chassis has four motor mounts greatly simplifies the replacement procedure since either the top two or the bottom two could hypothetically support the weight of the drivetrain.

3

Slide the floor jack under the engine, and place a piece of lumber on top of the jack pad to protect the oilpan. Bias the jack toward the mount that youll be replacing. In this instance, youre not so much supporting the engine as you are keeping it from moving while you remove the mount and after you remove it. Avoid the exhaust pipe and the suspension components, and bias the jack as close to the mount as possible; just make sure that you leave enough room to access the mount itself.

4

Remove the mounts through-bolt first. Remove the nut from the bolt, and try to tap it out with the end of your wrench. If it doesnt move, then apply a little bit of upward pressure with the jack to take some of the weight off the bolt. If it proves extremely difficult, spray the bolt with some penetrating lubricant, and turn the bolt head.

5

Spray the engine mount nuts with penetrating oil if necessary, and remove them. Pull the mount off. You may find it easier, particularly on the lower mounts, to remove the corresponding bracket, and remove the two as a unit. Once you have the mount off, installation is the reverse of removal. The only major differences are that you may need to adjust the height of the engine with the jack to aid in aligning the through-bolt holes, and that you may want to clean the bolt and stud threads with solvent and use a drop of medium (blue) threadlocker for peace of mind. See the torque specs below for nut and bolt torques.

A Jeep Wrangler Sport comes with a Power Train Control Module (PCM) computer on board that diagnoses problems throughout the vehicle. When the engine warning light illuminates on the instrument panel, this is the result of a trouble code sent to the PCM. You can take the vehicle to an auto parts store to have it diagnosed for free, and then you should have the problem fixed by a mechanic. Once the problem has been rectified, you can quickly and easily reset the engine warning light.

Instructions

1

Open the hood and find the positive battery terminal. Loosen the bolt attached to the clamp with an adjustable wrench. Remove the clamp from the terminal and take care not to touch it to the negative side of the battery. Wait one minute.

2

Replace the positive clamp to the positive battery terminal and tighten the bolt with the wrench.

3

Put the key in the ignition and turn it to the "On" position for about five seconds. Turn the engine on. The engine warning light will flash and then turn off.

If you find yourself in the unfortunate situation of having to replace a car door, cost becomes a major factor. Hopefully, your insurance (or the other guys) will cover the replacement cost, not counting the deductible. The average cost of replacing a door will vary greatly depending on the model of car. Replacing a Ferrari door will certainly cost a lot more than that of a Hyundai. The other major factors in replacement cost are whom you choose to work on your car and how you acquire the replacement door.

Find It Yourself

Scouring junkyards is by far the cheapest way to go, but if this proves difficult, get in touch with a local car club. These can be found with a simple Internet search and are a great source for information regarding your specific model. Be sure to select a replacement door compatible with your vehicle. Find a door identical to yours in build and color to make for easy installation. Finding a matching door at a good price can be tedious and take time. A used car door can range from $100 for commonly-found, inexpensive older models to upwards of $500 for luxury and specialty vehicles. Remember that many models doors will be nearly impossible to find on junkyards or second-hand.

Purchase From A Body Shop

For harder-to-find models, you may have to resort to purchasing a new door from a body shop. Find a few reputable body shops in your area and inquire about their price. Be wary of any offers that seem too good to be true, as they usually are. Occasionally body shops are able to find used doors and often are willing to keep an eye out for one if they know you are looking and have time. If you are in need of a replacement car door, chances are you do not have this time and youll be stuck buying a new one. This will cost you anywhere from $400 for less expensive models to upwards of $1000 for some makes and models.

Get It From The Source

The safest method for getting exactly the car door you need is to purchase it directly from a dealership or the manufacturer. You can order the precise door you need and can sometimes even save a little by not purchasing an entire car door, but only the specific parts that have been damaged. For example, if the glass is not broken, you dont need to buy a new window. If you do replace the entire door, however, the cost of purchasing one from a dealership or manufacturer will run you at least $500 for the most common inexpensive models, and anywhere upwards of $1000 to $2000 for luxury vehicles.

Fix It Yourself

If you are comfortable working on your car, undertaking the repairs yourself enables you to save a lot of money. Find the instructions for replacing the door. These can be acquired from dealerships and sometimes your local auto parts store. Manuals can be purchased for as little as $20 to $50, and make up the bulk of your cost besides the replacement parts themselves.

Have Someone Else Do The Work

The least stressful and time-consuming way to replace your car door is to have someone else do all the work for you. Body shops will find all the necessary parts and install them. Shop around at several many body shops until you get a feel for what the price should be. Prices you get quoted may vary greatly. Be suspicious of unusually low quotes. You get what you pay for. Dealerships have a reputation for being a little more expensive, but are worth looking into as well. Besides the cost of the car door itself, labor costs at reputable businesses run upwards of $50 per hour, sometimes as high as $120 per hour. Count on your car to be in the shop for at least 2 to 3 days after the parts have arrived. Those needing paint work should figure in another day or two, as well as additional fees of around $40 per hour for the paint job.