Wednesday, May 21, 2014
How to Replace the Clutch Master Cylinder of a 1995 Jeep Wrangler
Jeep Wranglers are equipped with hydraulic clutches. There are two components to a hydraulic clutch system, a master cylinder and slave cylinder. When you push on the clutch with your foot the master cylinder pushes hydraulic fluid down a line to the slave cylinder. The slave cylinder then pushes the clutch lever, opening and closing the clutch. Master cylinders have a tendency to lose pressure over time and need to be changed.
Instructions
- 1
Remove the clutch master cylinder cap. It is bolted to the firewall at the highest point above the steering column. Suck out all the fluid with the syringe.
2Disconnect the hydraulic line coming into the cylinder with a 3/8-inch open end wrench.
3Remove the upper and lower master cylinder mounting nuts with the 1/2-inch wrench.
4Lean under the dashboard on the inside of the cab. Trace the clutch pedal up to the point where it meets the lever coming in from the master cylinder. The pedal is joined to the lever with a cotter pin. Pull out the cotter pin with pliers. Using your fingers, disconnect the pedal from the lever by pulling it to the side.
5Pull the cylinder free from the firewall. Insert the new cylinder. Screw both cylinder mounting bolts back into the firewall securing the cylinder to the firewall. Screw the 3/8-inch hydraulic line onto the new cylinder.
6Lean under the dashboard. Connect the clutch pedal to the master cylinder lever coming in through the firewall. Insert the cotter pin.
7Fill the master cylinder with hydraulic fluid but leave the cap off. Get into the vehicle and pump the brake several times until the brakes have sufficient resistance. You will be able to feel the brake get stiff as any air escapes when you are pumping the brakes. Put the cap back on the master cylinder.
Saturday, January 11, 2014
How to Install an Easy Clutch on a Harley
There are two popular accessories that reduce the grip strength needed to squeeze a Harley clutch lever. Harley-Davidson sells a "reduced effort clutch" kit and White Brothers sells its "Easy Boy Lite Clutch." The Easy Boy Lite Clutch is much easier to install than the Harley kit because there is less to it. While the Harley kit replaces a clutch spring and two ramps in the transmission, the Easy Boy device provides a mechanical advantage by lengthening the leverage on the transmission inner ramp. Many riders get the two products confused. "Easy clutch " usually refers to the White Brothers accessory.
Instructions
- 1
Loosen the transmission drain plug with a socket wrench and hex socket and drain the transmission fluid into a pan.
2Access the clutch cable adjuster nut assembly under the black rubber boot in the middle of the clutch cable. Completely loosen the long lock nut and the smaller clutch adjustment nut with open end wrenches.
3Remove the six bolts that fasten the transmission cover to the transmission with an Allen socket and socket wrench. Remove the cover and gasket.
4Remove the C-clip that retains the ball/ramp mechanism with snap ring pliers. Lift out the ramp, cable coupling and three ball bearings. Disconnect the coupling from the clutch cable.
5Unscrew the clutch cable from the transmission cover. Remove the clutch cable O-ring from the transmission cover.
6Attach the "Easy Boy Lite Clutch" arm to the original equipment inner ramp with the bolt and hex nut included in the kit. Tighten the bolt to 10 to 12 foot-pounds of torque with a hex socket and torque wrench.
7Slide the spacer included with the kit onto the end of the clutch cable. Re-install the O-ring and screw the end of the clutch cable into the transmission cover.
8Hook the cable coupler to the clutch cable. Attach the coupler to the clutch arm bolted to the inner ramp. Re-install the inner and outer ramps and the three ball bearings, and replace the C-clip with snap ring pliers.
9Install a new transmission cover gasket. Replace the transmission cover and tighten the six screws to 96 foot-pounds of torque with an Allen socket and torque wrench.
10Replace the transmission drain plug and tighten the plug with a socket wrench and hex socket. Refill the transmission with approximately 20 fluid ounces of transmission fluid, or the amount specified in the owners manual for your motorcycle.
11Tighten the clutch cable adjusting nut with an open end wrench. Leave less than 1/8-inch free play in the clutch lever.
12Tighten the lock nut with another open end wrench. Replace the clutch adjustment nut assemblys rubber boot.
Saturday, November 23, 2013
Bleeding the Clutch on 2003 F 150
Ford equipped the 2003 F-150 trucks that have the optional standard transmission package with a hydraulic clutch system. The clutch system consists of a master cylinder, slave cylinder and a hydraulic clutch line. Depressing the clutch pedal actuates the clutch master cylinder, which pressurizes the hydraulic line and slave cylinder, similar to how a hydraulic brake system works. Air bubbles suspended in the hydraulic fluid will lead to a spongy feel at the clutch pedal and could cause clutch drag and gear grind as the transmission is put into gear. Bleed air from the clutch with the engine cold.
Instructions
- 1
Place the vehicle in neutral and set the parking brake.
2Open the hood and locate the clutch master cylinder on the right side of the engine compartment against the firewall. Wipe dirt or debris from the clutch master cylinder reservoir cap, using a clean shop rag
3Remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm. Fill the clutch master cylinder reservoir up to the Full mark with brake fluid.
4Depress and release the clutch pedal through the full range of travel several times.
5Locate the bleeder screw on the drivers side of the transmission, just above where the clutch hydraulic line enters the transmission. Remove the rubber bleeder screw cover.
6Attach a 1/4-inch inside diameter clear vinyl hose to the bleeder screw. Pour a small amount of new brake fluid into a clear container. Submerge the free end of the hose in the brake fluid to prevent drawing air back into the system.
7Have a helper fully depress and release the clutch pedal five times, then hold the clutch pedal down.
8Loosen the bleeder screw, using a wrench, and observe the fluid escaping through the hose. Tighten the bleeder screw once fluid flow has stopped.
9Repeat steps 7 and 8 as necessary until no air is visible in the escaping fluid stream. Occasionally check and top off the fluid level in the reservoir to prevent introducing air into the system. Do not allow the reservoir to run dry.
10Tighten the bleeder screw securely, using a wrench. Remove the clear vinyl hose. Install the rubber bleeder screw cover.
11Have your helper slowly pump the clutch pedal through the full range of travel several times and check the bleeder screw for leaks.
12Depress the clutch pedal halfway and release it twice, then depress and release the clutch pedal through the full range of travel three times.
13Check and top off the fluid level in the reservoir with brake fluid. Install the reservoir diaphragm and cap.
14Start the vehicle and check for proper operation of the clutch before operating the F-150 in traffic.
Sunday, November 3, 2013
How to Install a Fan Clutch in a 1985 Ford F 150
Ford uses a thermal-type fan clutch to regulate cooling fan speed in the 1985 F-150. At low temperature, the clutch slips to reduce fan speed. As the engine heats up, the clutch increases the fan speed to increase the amount of cooling air drawn through the radiator. Fan clutches eventually wear out and either slip or drag, causing overheating or overcooling, respectively. You can use common tools to replace the fan clutch.
Instructions
- 1
Remove the two radiator shroud retaining bolts one on each side -- on the top flange of the radiator, using a ratchet, socket and wrench. Pull upward slightly to disengage the bottom of the shroud from the radiator pads. Pull the shroud away from the radiator and rest it on the cooling fan.
2Remove the four clutch to water pump bolts on the fan clutch flange, using a ratchet and socket. Slide the fan clutch and fan around the shroud and out of the engine compartment.
3Remove the four cooling fan to clutch bolts in the center of the fan, using a ratchet and socket. Lift the fan off the fan clutch. Install the fan onto the new clutch. Put the clutch between two wood blocks and tighten in a vise until snug. Tighten the bolts to 12 to 18 foot-pounds, using a torque wrench and socket.
4Slide the new fan clutch into position on the water pump pulley. Install the clutch to water pump bolts and tighten them to 12 to 18 foot-pounds.
5Move the radiator shroud into position on the radiator. Engage the bottom of the shroud in the radiator pads. Install the radiator shroud retaining bolts, using a ratchet, socket and wrench