So Fix it

Harley gas tanks must never leak and when they leak they must never be repaired. Leaking tanks must be scrapped and replaced. New gas tanks leak because of defective welds. If pressure testing reveals a leak in a new tank the tank should be returned to the place of purchase for a und. Used gas tanks leak because of camouflaged collision damage or internal corrosion. Used tanks should always be stripped of paint and bead blasted before pressure testing. Gas tanks must always be empty and dry before being worked on. Pressure testing requires a reliable source of clean, dry, compressed air.

Instructions

1

Connect the air compressor to the air tank with an air hose and two air hose fittings. Regulate the pressure of the compressed air released from the air tank with an air pressure gauge. Use the regulated compressed air with a pressurized air line and detachable fittings.

2

Drop a one foot length of light chain into the gas tank through the filler opening. Shake the tank to loosen and remove any rust inside the tank. Remove the chain.

3

Turn the tank upside down and shake vigorously. Attach a blower fitting to a pressurized air line. Blast the inside of the tank with pressurized air.

4

Seal the petcock opening on the bottom of the gas tank with an air hose fitting attached to a pressurized air line. If necessary, install a fuel petcock and fit the air hose to the petcock with a hose fitting and a flat head screwdriver.

5

Prepare a solution of 50 percent dish washing detergent and 50 percent water. Adjust the air pressure leaving the compressed air tank to 15 pounds per square inch above atmosphere.

6

Seal the gas cap and pressurize the inside of the gas tank to 15 pounds per square inch above atmosphere. Paint the exterior of the gas tank with the detergent-water solution using a paint brush.

7

Look for air bubbles. Any air bubble indicates a leak and a defective gas tank.

The name Harley Davidson is synonymous with motorcycles, a desert landscape, street cool and rebelliousness. Some famous riders include actors Brigitte Bardot, Peter Fonda and Elizabeth Taylor. It is also the motorcycle for the notorious gang, Hells Angels, which is most popularly linked to crime and drugs. Harley-Davidson may evoke a glamorous image but even this is not a perfect brand. Even the most expert rider will probably have to tend to an oil leak at some point in his lifetime.

Instructions

1

Check from where the leak is occurring to locate the problem. Make sure to check for any holes in the fuel, oil, or hydraulic tanks. Check both the cases and the lines for leaks. The leak may not be directly from the tank but could be a mixture of oil, water and air, blackened to look like an oil leak. Checking the source of a possible leak should be a regular practice anyway to ensure you are not left without fuel in the middle of nowhere.

2

Wipe away excess oil. According to Harley Davidson Maintenance, the initial thoughts of a rider when he finds oil formation on the right side of the engine is that the oil leak is caused by a damaged push rod tube seal. In this case, the tube should be replaced. A replacement tube can be found by looking at Harley Davidson parts retailers.

3

Take your bike to a mechanic who specializes in Harley Davidson motorcycles. If the problem is recurring, your best bet is to take it to an expert mechanic. He or she may have to tear out the engine to look for the cause of the oil leak and this is best left to an expert. Affordable mechanics can be found on the Internet.

There are two popular accessories that reduce the grip strength needed to squeeze a Harley clutch lever. Harley-Davidson sells a "reduced effort clutch" kit and White Brothers sells its "Easy Boy Lite Clutch." The Easy Boy Lite Clutch is much easier to install than the Harley kit because there is less to it. While the Harley kit replaces a clutch spring and two ramps in the transmission, the Easy Boy device provides a mechanical advantage by lengthening the leverage on the transmission inner ramp. Many riders get the two products confused. "Easy clutch " usually refers to the White Brothers accessory.

Instructions

1

Loosen the transmission drain plug with a socket wrench and hex socket and drain the transmission fluid into a pan.

2

Access the clutch cable adjuster nut assembly under the black rubber boot in the middle of the clutch cable. Completely loosen the long lock nut and the smaller clutch adjustment nut with open end wrenches.

3

Remove the six bolts that fasten the transmission cover to the transmission with an Allen socket and socket wrench. Remove the cover and gasket.

4

Remove the C-clip that retains the ball/ramp mechanism with snap ring pliers. Lift out the ramp, cable coupling and three ball bearings. Disconnect the coupling from the clutch cable.

5

Unscrew the clutch cable from the transmission cover. Remove the clutch cable O-ring from the transmission cover.

6

Attach the "Easy Boy Lite Clutch" arm to the original equipment inner ramp with the bolt and hex nut included in the kit. Tighten the bolt to 10 to 12 foot-pounds of torque with a hex socket and torque wrench.

7

Slide the spacer included with the kit onto the end of the clutch cable. Re-install the O-ring and screw the end of the clutch cable into the transmission cover.

8

Hook the cable coupler to the clutch cable. Attach the coupler to the clutch arm bolted to the inner ramp. Re-install the inner and outer ramps and the three ball bearings, and replace the C-clip with snap ring pliers.

9

Install a new transmission cover gasket. Replace the transmission cover and tighten the six screws to 96 foot-pounds of torque with an Allen socket and torque wrench.

10

Replace the transmission drain plug and tighten the plug with a socket wrench and hex socket. Refill the transmission with approximately 20 fluid ounces of transmission fluid, or the amount specified in the owners manual for your motorcycle.

11

Tighten the clutch cable adjusting nut with an open end wrench. Leave less than 1/8-inch free play in the clutch lever.

12

Tighten the lock nut with another open end wrench. Replace the clutch adjustment nut assemblys rubber boot.

The 75th Anniversary 1978 Electra Glide came equipped with what Harley-Davidson calls rider "footboards," or floorboards. The boards were fixed rather than retractable, shaped like half-moons and covered with rubber. Replacements are still available from aftermarket suppliers. The original boards had two female mounts and bolted to a footboard mount. If all of that has disappeared in the last 30 years, both contemporary and original equipment replacement floorboard mounting kits are available.

Instructions

1

Remove your right foot peg by turning the bolt head with a socket wrench while you immobilize the nut with a box wrench.

2

Bolt the replacement right footboard mounts to the frame of the Electra Glide with a socket wrench, using the nut, bolt and washers that came with your mount. Put thread locker on the bolt threads. Tighten with a breaker bar.

3

Bolt the right footboard bracket, if one came with your mounting kit, to the right footboard mount or mounts. In most cases, the components bolt together with a single hex nut and lock washer. Some contemporary footboard mounts may be secured with an Allen bolt.

4

Put thread locker on the threads of the exposed footboard mounting stud or the original equipment replacement mounting bolts. Tighten the hex nut with a socket and breaker bar. Alternately, put thread locker on the threads of the Allen bolt of your contemporary footboard mount and tighten with an Allen wrench.

5

Bolt the fixed right footboards to the right footboard mount by inserting the two male mounts into the two female mounts. Secure the two pairs of mounts by turning the hex bolt heads with a socket wrench, immobilizing the nuts with a box wrench. Some mounting kits require you to secure the two pairs of mounts by tightening an Allen head bolt with an Allen wrench.

6

Repeat these steps to mount the left footboard.

Harley riders usually need to relocate their tail lights before they can install saddlebags on their motorcycles. The motor company has engineered many of its bikes so that the purchase of a set of saddlebags also requires the purchase of a kit to relocate the taillights, so the saddlebags will fit At that point, many casual riders give up and have the dealer handle the relocation, which is straightforward. Anyone attempting a taillight relocation needs a well-equipped workshop, patience and dexterity, but the job is not difficult.

Instructions

1

Elevate the motorcycle on a motorcycle jack. The wheel must hang down so you can access the inside of the fender.

2

Unscrew the rear seat stud with an Allen wrench. Remove the seat. Disconnect the black battery cable from the negative battery terminal.

3

Remove the plastic plug from the tail lamp access hole inside the rear fender.

4

Remove the turn signal wires and connectors from the inside of the tail lamp housing, then remove the turn signal wires from the clips inside the fender. Separate the four-way turn signal socket housings from the rear lighting harness pin housings.

5

Unplug the gray four-way tail lamp connector from the mating connector in the tail lamp housing. Mark for reference with masking tape and a pen and remove the wires from both socket housings.

6

Remove the screw at the front of the fender mounting bracket, as well as the screw and washer at the rear of the fender mounting bracket. Remove the turn signal lamp, fender rail and mounting bracket from the Harley.

7

Cut one piece of heat shrink tubing into two equal sections with scissors. Slide one piece of the tubing over the turn signal wires, all the way up to the lamp housing on each side of the motorcycle. Use a heat gun to shrink the tubing.

8

Install the turn signal lamp wires through the small hole in the recess cover. Position the cover into the recess in the turn signal housing.

9

Loosely attach the hex nut and lock washer onto the turn signal relocation bracket. Loosely attach the turn signal lamp and recess cover onto the threaded end of the turn signal relocation bracket.

10

Align the relocation bracket with the rear of the fender support. Fit the round pad into the mating hole in the support.

11

Install the rear fender rail with your original equipment hardware or the hardware specified in your saddlebag mounting instructions. Install the turn signal relocation bracket to the rear fender and fender rail.

12

Aim each turn signal lens straight back. Tighten the hex nut and lock washer with a wrench. Complete all steps for both sides of the motorcycle.

13

Install the turn signal wires and terminals into each cavity of the turn signal socket housings.

14

Route the turn signal wires under the turn signal relocation bracket and under the rear fender edge on each side of the vehicle. Connect the turn signal socket housings to the pin housings on the rear lighting harness.

15

Plug the gray, four-way tail lamp connector on the rear lighting harness into the mating connector in the tail lamp housing under the fender. Gently push the turn signal wires and connectors into the cavity inside the tail lamp housing and install the plastic plug into the tail lamp access hole in the rear fender.

16

Route the turn signal wire under the signal relocation bracket and secure it to the bracket with a cable tie.

17

Install your saddlebags or re-bolt the fender rails to your fender using the original hardware.

Coughing in an 883 Sportster has several crude names and can be symptomatic of several minor problems, all of which are easily diagnosed. These are almost always carburetion problems. The carburetor is hidden under the air cleaner, which is the almost always shiny, 8- to 12-inch-wide bump under your right hand as you sit on the motorcycle with your arms dangling. The air cleaner and carburetor are between the two, finned cylinders that form a V. Novice mechanics might not want fix all of these possible problems themselves. They can at least discover something intelligent to say to the service writer or Harley technician.

Instructions

1

Open the petcock, fully extend the choke, put the transmission in neutral and start the motorcycle. Push the choke halfway in after 30 seconds.

2

Allow the motorcycle to run until the rocker covers, which are the chrome boxes on top of your cylinders, are very warm to the touch. Listen for coughing.

3

Push the choke completely in. Twist the throttle about halfway open and release. Repeat two or three times.

4

Listen for coughing. If the motorcycle coughs when the choke is pushed in but not when the choke is pulled out, your motorcycle is running too lean in what mechanics call the "idle circuit" because there is too much air and not enough gasoline in your fuel-air mixture. The idle mixture screw on the bottom of your carburetor is improperly adjusted.

5

Examine your air cleaner cover. If your air cleaner is original equipment it will be secured with one Allen bolt in the middle of the cover and will be marked "Harley-Davidson." If the air cleaner cover is not original, your air cleaner assembly may have been replaced.

6

Examine your motorcycle exhaust. If your motorcycle exhaust and air cleaner are both not original equipment, your Harley 883 may need to be rejetted. The standard low speed jet on an 883 Sportster is a Number 42. You may need a Number 45 or a Number 48 low-speed jet.

7

Loosen the Allen bolt in the middle of your air cleaner cover with an Allen key or wrench and remove the cover. Find the spot behind the carburetor where the carburetor mates with the intake manifold.

8

Spray carburetor cleaner on the intake manifold while your motorcycle is running. Do not spray into the air cleaner. If the idle changes speeds while you spray carburetor cleaner only at the intake manifold, you have a leak there. You need new air intake seals.

Harley Davidson brand motorcycles utilize three main spin-on oil filter types depending upon the model. Each type of filter is distinguished by general size, thread size, bypass valve, and anti-drain back valve compatibility. In addition, each of the three types are available from a variety of manufacturers available at major retailers and auto supply stores, as well as through specialty motorcycle part suppliers. The model and year of the motorcycle determines the correct spin-on oil filter to be used.

3 Inch to 3.5 Inch Length

The most common oil filter for Harley Davidson motorcycles, additional specifications for this oil filter include 3/4 inch by 16 tpi threads, 8 psi bypass valve, and an anti-drain back valve. This size oil filter is best suited for several Harley Davidson models. It is used for the Harley Davidson XL Sportster manufactured from 1984 to 2007, the XLH Sportster, manufactured from 1954 to 1987; FLH model, manufactured from 1953 to 1982; the CH6060 FX, manufactured from 1983 to 1987; Evo 80, manufactured from 1984 to 1999; Evo 88, manufactured from 1999 to 2006; and Evo 96, manufactured from 2007 to the present. The following models of this oil filter type are available: Purolator PL14476 / PL14477, Mobil1 M1-102, Bosch 3330, Walmart Supertech ST4967/4386, AMSOil SMF 133/134/135, Baldwin B33/B37, Fram PH4967, Hastings LF410/LF 413, NAPA 1394, Purolator ML16822, and WIX 51394/51396.

2.5 Inch to 3.5 Inch Length

Utilized only in the V-Rod Harley Davidson model motorcycles, all years, this filter boasts 20 by 1.5 millimeter threads, a 14 psi pass valve, an anti-drain pass valve, and a 2.3 inch O.D. gasket. The following models of this oil filter type are available: AC Delco PF2135, AMSOil SMF103, Carquest 85358, AC Delco PF2135, FRAM PH6017A, Honda 15410-MCJ-000, K&N KN-204, NAPA Gold 1358, Purolator ML16817, STP SMO 17, and WIX 51358.

Various Lengths

The final type of oil valve utilized in Harley Davidson motorcycles, is also the second most common but does not have the standard length seen in the other models. This type of filter is used in FX model bikes manufactured from 1971 to 1982, as well as CH6067 FXE, FXS and FXWG models manufactured from 1982 to1986. Specifications for the filter include 16 by 1.5 millimeter threads, an 8 psi bypass valve, and an anti-drain back valve. The following models of this oil filter type are available: AMSOil SMF 132/132C, EMGO 10-26980, Fram PH6019 and PH6074, K&N KN-153, NAPA 7013 and WIX 57013.

Lowering the forks on a Road King is a much tougher job than lowering the forks on a Softail, Dyna or Sportster. Harley sells a parts kit to help you accomplish the job. Three special tools are required to install the kit to Harley specifications. You must also replace 8 sets of parts that are not included with the kit. But if you have been yearning for an excuse to take your forks completely apart, you enjoy collecting tools, you own a beach towel you have always hated and you have a spacious, well equipped place in which to work, then this is the right job for you.

Instructions

Remove The Forks

1

Detach the windshield from the Road King using the quick detach clips. Elevate the motorcycle on a motorcycle jack until the front tire leaves the floor.

2

Loosen and detach the front caliper using a hex socket and a socket wrench. Hook a bungee cord to the caliper. Hook the other end of the bungee cord to the handlebars.

3

Loosen the axle nut with a hex socket and socket wrench. Pull the complete axle assembly out of the wheel. Remove and set aside the front wheel.

4

Loosen the fender mounting screws using a socket wrench and socket and an Allen wrench. Remove the four screws and the front fender.

5

Loosen, mark for reference with tape, then remove the upper and lower fork bracket pinch bolts using an Allen wrench, a socket and a socket wrench. Carefully lower the fork assembly out of the fork brackets. Wrap the forks in a beach towel.

Disassemble The Forks

6

Remove the nuts, lock washers, flat washers and axle holder from the studs at the end of the fork slider with an Allen wrench and an open end wrench.

7

Clamp the Harley-Davidson fork tube holder or equivalent horizontally in a bench vise. Clamp one fork tube vertically, with the fork cap bolt up, between the rubber pads of the fork tool. Tighten the knobs on the fork tube tool by hand.

8

Remove the fork cap bolt from fork tube plug with a large adjustable wrench. Remove and discard the quad ring seal.

9

Remove the fork tube plug as if you know there is a compressed spring in the fork tube under the plug. Remove the fork spring from the fork tube.

10

Unloosen the fork from the fork tube holder. Insert the opposite fork tube in the holder and remove the fork cap bolt, fork tube plug and spring from the opposite fork.

11

Remove the fork assembly from the fork tube holder. Turn the fork upside down and drain the fork oil into a drain pan.

12

Put the old fork spring back into the right fork tube. Work on one fork at a time.

13

Put a folded shop rag on the floor. Turn the fork assembly upside down and push the end of the fork spring against the rag to compress the spring. Compress the spring and remove the remaining screw on the bottom of the fork slider with an Allen socket and an air impact wrench.

14

Discard the copper, crush gasket and the screw.

15

Remove the fork spring and the damper tube from the fork. Remove the rebound spring from the damper tube. Save the rebound spring and discard the fork spring and damper tube.

16

Reinstall the forks into the fork tube holder. Remove the remaining screw on the bottom of the slider, the crush gasket, fork spring and damper from the left fork tube using the same procedures that you applied to the right fork tube.

17

Remove the retaining clips between the fork sliders and the fork tubes with a mechanics pick or a dental pick.

18

Remove the fork tubes from the fork sliders. Slide the fork oil seals, slider spacers and slider bushings off the end of the fork tubes. Discard fork oil seals and slider bushings.

19

Pry open the split lines on the fork tube bushings with a flathead screwdriver and remove them from the grooves at the end of the fork tubes. Discard the fork tube bushings.

20

Remove the two lower stops from the two fork sliders. Clean all disassembled parts with solvent and rags.

Reassemble The Forks Part 1

21

Coat the replacement fork tube bushings with new, clean fork oil. Expand the fork tube bushings at split line with a flathead screwdriver and slip each over the ends and into the grooves on the two fork tubes.

22

Install replacement wear rings in the grooves at the tops of the two new damper tubes included with the lowering kit. Install the old damper springs on the new damper tubes.

23

Slide the new damper tubes into the old fork tubes. Reinstall the lower stops into the new damper tubes.

24

Push the fork sliders into the fork tube holders. Slide the fork tubes into the fork sliders.

25

Coat the replacement slider bushings with fork oil and slide the new bushings down the fork tubes. Push the slider spacers included with the kit down the fork tubes until each contacts the slider bushing on that fork tube.

26

Cover the lips of the fork tubes with masking tape. Coat the replacement fork oil seals with fork oil. Slide the new fork seals spring side down into the fork tubes until they contact the slider spacer. Remove the tape from the fork tubes.

27

Slide the fork seal/bushing tool down one fork tube at a time and use it like a slide hammer to drive the fork oil seal into that fork tube until, using a flashlight, you can clearly see the retaining clip groove in the fork slider. Repeat this on the opposite fork tube.

28

Slide the old retaining clips down the fork tubes until they contact the fork oil seal.

29

Slide one of the new fork springs included with the kit down the right fork tube. Place a folded shop rag on the floor.

30

Remove the fork assembly from the fork tube holder. Turn the assembly upside down and forcefully press the end of the fork spring against the folded rag.

31

Install a replacement end screw and replacement copper crush washer. Tighten the end screw to 18 foot pounds of torque with an Allen socket and a torque wrench. Remove the fork spring from the tube and place it in the opposite fork tube.

32

Repeat the procedures you just completed to install the end screw in the opposite fork tube. Remove the fork spring from the fork tube.

Fork Reassembly Part 2

33

Shove one fork tube into one of the fork sliders. Clamp the fork slider, fork tube side up, into the fork tube holder.

34

Measure 11.2 ounces or 300 milliliters of Type E fork oil or equivalent into a pint measuring cup. Pour the fork oil into one of the fork tubes. Pump the fork tube four times to remove air from the fork. Repeat for the opposite fork tube.

35

Loosen the thumbscrew on the metal ring on the fork oil level gauge. The gauge looks like a bicycle pump with a transparent tube. The metal ring is attached to the transparent tube.

36

Slide the metal ring up or down the transparent tube and tighten when exactly 4.92 inches, or 125 millimeters, of transparent tube extends beyond the metal ring.

37

Completely depress the handle of the fork oil level gauge. Rest the metal ring on top of the fork tube.

38

Pull the fork gauge handle up to suck excess oil out of the fork tube. When no oil comes out of the fork tube the fork oil level is just right.

39

Pour 11.2 ounces of fork oil into the opposite fork tube and correct the fork oil level with the fork oil level gauge as above.

40

Install new, replacement O-rings onto the 2 original fork tube plugs. Screw the fork tube plugs into the tops of the fork tubes and hand tighten both plugs.

41

Install new quad ring seals onto the two old fork cap bolts. Thread the fork cap bolts into the fork tube plugs and tighten 55 foot pounds of torque with a 1 1/8 inch socket and torque wrench.

Final Reassembly

42

Carefully slide the fork assembly up and into the fork brackets. Replace and tighten the upper and lower fork bracket pinch bolts using an Allen wrench, a hex socket and a socket wrench. Tighten the pinch bolt nuts to 30 foot pounds of torque with a hex socket and torque wrench.

43

Replace the front fender and tighten the four mounting screws using a socket wrench and hex socket and an Allen wrench.

44

Replace the front wheel and axle assembly. Tighten the front axle nut to 50 pounds of torque with a torque wrench and hex socket.

45

Reattach the brake caliper and tighten the mounting bolts to 35 pounds with a torque wrench and hex socket.

46

Lower and remove the motorcycle jack. Replace the windshield.

Harley-Davidson insists that only the shock absorbers on its Softail models may be disassembled. All other Harley shock absorbers must be replaced as an assembly. Harley sells a Softail lowering kit that requires you to disassemble the Softail shock absorbers. And Progressive Suspension sells a press that helps with the disassembly of Softail shocks. Its also possible to improvise similar presses. Actual disassembly of the shocks is simple and straightforward.

Instructions

1

Clean the rear fork end of the shock near the shock canister seal as thoroughly as possible with grease remover and clean rags.

2

Place the flat end of the shock canister on wooden block or blocks if you are disassembling the shock on a hydraulic press. Leave two inches of space between the end of the hydraulic ram and the top of the long eye. The long eye is the rod that extends from the end of the shock canister.

3

Place the flat end of the shock canister in the canister container ring and lower the mechanical ram until it touches the end of the long eye if you are using the Progressive Suspension tool.

4

Compress the spring in the canister by applying pressure from the hydraulic or mechanical ram to the top of the long eye until the shock absorber keeper plate drops down from the retaining ring.

5

Remove the retaining ring with a dentists pick or a mechanics pick.

6

Release the mechanical or hydraulic pressure on the end of the long eye from the shock tool or hydraulic press. Separate the parts when the long eye is not longer under pressure.

7

Remove the shock damper and spring plate assembly from the canister

8

Line the jaws of a vise with aluminum vise jaw pads. Place the shock damper assembly in the vise so the long eye is secured in the vise jaws.

9

Heat the long eye and long eye lock nut with a heat gun to loosen the thread locker on the assembly. Loosen the spring plate lock nut with a wrench and spin the nut four or five times for clearance.

10

Unscrew the damper shaft from the long eye mount with a wrench. Remove the spring plate and lock nut from the long eye mount.