So Fix it

Finding authentic parts or accessories for an older vehicle that you are rebuilding or repairing can be frustrating. Most repair shops keep only newer car parts and accessories in stock. In some cases, even figuring out the specific brand and model of accessories like car stereos that belong in an older truck can be a challenge. Specific types of resources can help take the guesswork out of the process and help ease a bit of the frustration. Finding original factory parts or accessories--such as a 1989 Toyota Land Cruiser car stereo--requires research from several resources.

Instructions

1

Ask your local Toyota dealer. Toyota dealerships have access to erence materials--such as parts directories and technical specification information--that will help you track down a factory car stereo for your 1989 Toyota Land Cruiser. Your local Toyota dealer may also be aware of resources available to order the stereo, or at least direct you to sellers, resellers or car clubs where you can find it.

2

Check online auction sites. Sites such as eBay Motors, which specializes in cars, parts and electronics, have specific sections for electronics like Toyota Land Cruiser stereos. Although such auction sites offer a comprehensive selection of parts and electronic accessories since they draw from sellers around the world, note that availability of a 1989 Land Cruiser factory stereo will depend on someone else selling it. Because these sites also depend on users to categorize the parts they sell, you may need to search multiple categories for the stereo you need--such as "Parts & Accessories" and "Electronics."

3

Use specialty parts sites. Sites that specialize in particular kinds of parts or accessories are a good source in your search for a 1989 Toyota Land Cruiser factory stereo. Websites like HiFi Sound Connection and Installer.com offer you tools that search their parts and accessories directories by year, make or model of car, or by brand of stereo. Specialty parts and accessories sites also categorize parts by manufacturer and let you scroll through the different models and manufacturing years as needed.

Prior to the second phase of onboard diagnostics (OBD II), implemented in 1996, many vehicles (including the 1995 Chevrolet Astro Van) came equipped with a single oxygen sensor. This sensor was placed on the manifold or front exhaust pipe to monitor the mixture emitting from the exhaust. Emissions that indicated the engine was running vehicles too lean (too much air) or too rich (too much fuel) would trigger the sensor to communicate to the computer and set off the malfunction indicator lamp. In 1996, the number of oxygen sensors doubled or even quadrupled on vehicles in order to also monitor efficiency of the catalytic converter.

Instructions

1

Apply the parking brake on the Astro Van and then pull the primary hood release latch on the drivers-side kick panel.

2

Open the hood by releasing the secondary hood release latch and then support the hood with the hood prop rod. This will allow some light through the engine compartment for more visibility when changing the oxygen sensor.

3

Lift the front end of the van with the jack and then support it on jack stands placed under the concave frame rails in the front.

4

Put on the safety glasses, gather the remaining items needed and then crawl under the front of the van.

5

Locate the catalytic converter at the center of the exhaust system and follow the exhaust system to the front of the engine. The oxygen sensor is located on the front pipe, below the passenger-side seating area.

6

Spray the penetrating lubricant onto the thread connection of the oxygen sensor-to-front pipe mating surface. Allow a few minutes to pass for the spray to penetrate.

7

Follow the wire on the end of the oxygen sensor to the plug connection of the wire harness (about 8 inches away). Use the small, slotted screwdriver to unlock the clip retainer on the wire harness connection and then unplug the oxygen sensor wire from the wire harness plug.

8

Place the oxygen sensor socket onto the ratchet and align the wire of the oxygen sensor through the slot of the socket. Place the socket firmly onto the oxygen sensor and apply counterclockwise pressure to loosen it from the front pipe. Remove the sensor.

9

Inspect the new direct-fit oxygen sensor threads. Many come equipped with a light coating of electrically conductive anti-seize compound. If there is none on the threads, spread a light coating of the anti-seize compound on the threaded section of the oxygen sensor only. Do not get the compound on the electrode of the sensor.

10

Hand-thread the new sensor into the exhaust port on the front pipe and tighten using fingers as much as possible.

11

Tighten the sensor fully with the socket and ratchet. Only snug the sensor to the front pipe. The threads of the sensors are much softer than the port and can easily strip if over-tightened.

12

Reconnect the oxygen sensor wire to the wire harness plug.

13

Start the engine up and then crawl back under to check for any obvious exhaust leak coming from the oxygen sensor port. If necessary, tighten the sensor a little more until there is no leak.

14

Lower the Astro Van and release the parking brake.

The Lumina was manufactured by Chevrolet and first introduced on the North American market in 1990. It featured three different body types. Chevrolet Luminas engines were equipped with multiport fuel injection system that required a special intake manifold. The intake manifold is designed to distribute the air fuel mixture in the engine. As the fluids pass constantly through the intake manifold, the gaskets get corroded and require to be replaced.

Instructions

Removal

1

Disconnect the batterys negative (ground) cable to prevent injury. Disconnect the vacuum hose connection from the throttle body air inlet duct. Disconnect the wiring harness connection from the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor in the throttle body air inlet duct. Remove the throttle body air inlet duct. Drain the engine coolant from the cooling system.

2

Remove the accelerator control and cruise control cables with bracket from the throttle body. Remove the wiring harness from the retainer. Disconnect the throttle position (TP) sensor and idle air control (IAC) valve wiring harness connectors from the throttle body. Disconnect the front spark plug wires.

3

Disconnect the wiring harness attachment clips of camshaft position sensor (CMP). Remove the nut from the coolant pipe to the throttle body. Disconnect the thermostat bypass pipe coolant hoses from the throttle body. Remove the engine mount struts. Disconnect the right spark plug wire retaining clips. Remove the spark plug wires at the coil pack.

4

Remove the ignition coil bracket with the coils, the purge solenoid, the vacuum canister solenoid, the vacuum lines, and the electrical connections. Disconnect the vacuum hose at the manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor. Remove the Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) sensor and the bracket. Disconnect the emission control vacuum harness. Disconnect the vacuum booster hose, automatic transaxle vacuum modulator hose, heather and air conditioning vacuum source hose and fuel pressure hose from the intake manifold.

5

Remove the drive belt. Remove the front generator brace. Remove the rear generator brace. Remove the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve. Remove the right-hand intake manifold bolts and studs. Remove the left-hand upper intake manifold bolts. Remove the intake manifold. Remove the intake manifold gasket.

Installation

6

Install the throttle body. Lay the intake manifold gasket on the cylinder block. Position the intake manifold on the new gasket. Loosely tighten the left hand intake manifold bolts, the right hand intake manifold bolts and the studs. Then, tighten the intake manifold bolts and studs 18 foot-pounds of torque.

7

Install the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve. Install the rear generator brace and the front generator brace. Connect the vacuum hose connections to the intake manifold. Those connections include the vacuum booster hose, automatic transaxle vacuum modulator hose, heather and air conditioning vacuum source hose and the fuel regulator hose.

8

Plug in the emission control vacuum harness. Install the manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor and bracket. Connect the vacuum hose at the manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor and the intake manifold. Install the ignition coil bracket with the coils, the purge solenoid, the vacuum canister solenoid, and the spark plug wire retainers. Connect the plug wires to the ignition module. Connect the vacuum lines, and the electrical connections. Return the engine to the proper position.

9

Install the engine mount struts. Connect the thermostat bypass pipe and the coolant hoses to the throttle body. Connect the camshaft position (CMP) sensor wiring harness, spark plug wire harness and engine wiring harness. Install the throttle position (TP) sensor and idle air control (IAC) valve.

10

Install the accelerator control and cruise control cables with bracket to the throttle body. Connect the wiring harness to the retainer. Fill the cooling system with engine coolant. Install the throttle body air inlet duct. Connect the wiring harness connection to the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor in the throttle body air inlet duct and then connect the vacuum hose connection to the throttle body air inlet duct. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

Practically every car sold in the United States since the mid 1970s has been equipped with a catalytic converter. These exhaust system components reduce the amount of harmful gases that are released into the atmosphere as byproducts of an internal combustion engine. Some say that a cars performance will improve after the cat (as they are sometimes called) is removed, but the basis for this claim is not backed up by any authority. Heres why you need a catalytic converter on your car.

The facts

Catalytic converters are required equipment for all gas and diesel powered cars on the road today. You cant buy a car that does not have one. Removing the catalytic converter from your car is in violation of the federally mandated Clean Air Act, and may also be in violation of state law as well. If you remove the cat, you will fail the emissions test when your car is next inspected. If you drive a car that has on board diagnostics, removing the converter will cause your "Check Engine" light to come on.

Function

The catalytic converter removes hydrocarbons (unburned fuel), carbon monoxide (CO) and oxides of nitrogen (NOX) from the exhaust before it reaches the muffler. There are two main types of catalytic converters: Two-way and three-way. Two way converters, which were the first to be put into general use, remove only the hydrocarbons and CO.

How they work

Catalytic converters essentially just burn the remaining hydrocarbons, CO and NOX to create harmless CO2, water and nitrogen. As temperatures approach 1,400 Fahrenheit the catalyst found inside the converter (usually platinum, rhodium and/or palladium) helps the oxidization of the exhaust gases without undergoing any chemical change to itself.

Significance

The Clean Air Act of 1970 was passed to prevent the dangerous emissions of fossil fuel combustion from becoming a serious threat to the quality of life in this country. Hydrocarbon emissions can contribute to many illnesses, including the irritation of the throat, lung and the eyes. Oxides of nitrogen are a component of smog and they produce ozone, which is a smelly irritant of the eyes and respiratory system. Carbon monoxide is extremely toxic and can cause death if inhaled in large concentrations.

History

After a catalytic muffler that was developed in the late fifties suffered failures due to lead additives in the gasoline, the first catalytic converters were created in 1975 by John Mooney and Carl Keith. These were two-way converters, and it wasnt until 1981 that the three-way catalytic converter was introduced.

You can access engine codes for your 1989 Volvo 240 from your home garage using an OBD I scanner. This hand-held computerized tool can be purchased from any auto parts store. The On-Board Diagnostics computer receives and stores error codes sent to it from the engine. Sensors in the engine detect malfunctions and servicing needs of the Volvo and send the error codes to the computer. The computer, in turn, illuminates the "Service Engine Soon" or "Check Engine" lights on your instrument panel. The codes can be read using an OBD I scanner. After you read the codes, this same tool can be used to reset the computer and turn off all warning lights after repairs or servicing has been accomplished.

Instructions

1

Plug the OBD I scanner into the large open port on the drivers side dashboard underneath the steering column.

2

Put the key into the ignition, and turn it to the "ACC" position, but dont crank the engine. Wait while the scanner turns on. Some scan tools have an on/off switch that needs to be turned on.

3

Select the "Read Codes" command from the scanners menu. Wait for the scanner to interface with the OBD computer. Write the engine codes it displays on a piece of paper.

4

Unplug the scanner.

Although not as important as the headlights, a vehicles fog lights still make driving safer and easier when there is a lot of fog in the area. When there is a malfunction with the fog lights, they must be replaced as quickly as possible. Thankfully, replacing a fog light on the 2005 Chevrolet Monte Carlo is a simple process that does not take much time.

Instructions

1

Turn off the Monte Carlo and put on the gloves. Whenever working in or under a vehicle, gloves should be worn for safety reasons.

2

Place the jack under the vehicle and raise it to a comfortable level. Whereas the headlight assembly is accessed through the hood of the car, the fog lights can only be reached from underneath.

3

Unplug the electrical wire connection that is connected to the fog lights. The connection is located under the vehicle, plugged into the fog lights. This will allow you access to the fog light assembly.

4

Remove the bulb socket by twisting and pulling it from out of the fog light assembly. Remove the old bulb by pulling it out of the assembly.

5

Insert the replacement bulb into the assembly and lock it into place. Reattach the socket by twisting it back onto the fog light assembly. Reconnect the electrical wire connection to the fog light assembly and lower the Monte Carlo back onto the ground.

Finding your locked gas cap frozen can be more than an inconvenience, especially if youre nearly out of fuel and need to fill the tank. Although you can use hot water to unfreeze a gas cap lock, this could result in water leaking into the gas tank. If youre at the gas station, you may not have access to conventional methods such as de-icing sprays or hairdryers, but there are methods to unlock the cap without them. If you live in a cold weather climate or the lock freezes frequently, keep remedies for thawing it with you in the vehicle.

Instructions

1

Heat the key on the engine while the car is running and try inserting it in the lock. If the key is warm enough, it will thaw the lock. You may have to repeat this several times. Its a handy method if you dont have any other method of thawing the cap available in the car. The key can also be heated with a match or cigarette lighter.

2

Wet a cloth with warm or hot water and lay it over the lock. Avoid pouring hot water on the lock, as this may compound the problem if the water reezes or gets into the gas tank.

3




Spray de-icer on the lock and the key. Use it sparingly on the lock. Spray the lock caully to avoid getting the de-icer into the gas tank.

4

Direct hot air from a hand-held hairdryer at the lock if youre at home, in a garage or close to an outlet that will allow you to use one.

5

Use a cardboard cylinder from a paper towel or toilet paper roll. Place one end over the lock and breathe through the other. Your warm breath may help thaw the lock. This may take some time.

A 350 Chevy can be any engine in a Chevrolet vehicle with a displacement of 350 cubic inches. The last version of this engine was the Vortec 5700, which appeared in full-size Chevrolet trucks from 1996 to 2002. The 350 Chevy engine used central sequential fuel injection, which fires the fuel injectors in a specific order. The installation procedure for the fuel injectors is the same for all trucks with a 350 Chevy engine made after 1998.

Instructions

1

Turn the ignition off and remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Open the filler cap on the fuel tank to release the fuel tank pressure.

2

Wrap a shop towel around the pressure fitting on the fuel rail and connect a fuel pressure gauge to the pressure fitting. Place the free end of the bleed hose of the pressure gauge into a container suitable for gasoline. Open the valve on the pressure gauge to relieve the fuel system pressure and disconnect the fuel pressure gauge from the pressure fitting.

3

Detach the electrical connectors from the fuel pipes on the engine. Disconnect the fuel send and return lines from the fuel pipes with a socket wrench and discard the O-rings for the fuel lines. Remove the upper intake manifold from the engine with a socket wrench. Release the lock tabs on the fuel meter and disconnect the fuel meter from the engine.

4

Remove the retaining nuts on the lower hold-down plate for the fuel injectors with a socket wrench and disconnect the hold-down plate. Pull the nozzle of each fuel injector down as you push a small pry tool between the electrical terminals of the fuel injector. Pry the injector out of its socket on the fuel meter and discard the O-ring on the fuel injector.

5

Lubricate the O-rings for the fuel injectors with engine oil and mount the new O-rings to the new fuel injector. Install the new fuel injector to its socket on the fuel meter. Attach the lower hold-down plate and tighten its retaining nuts to 27 inch-pounds with a torque wrench.

6

Connect the fuel meter to the intake manifold and tighten the retaining bolts to 88 inch-pounds. Attach the lock tabs for the fuel meter bracket to secure the fuel meter in place. Connect new electrical connectors for the fuel injectors. Mount new O-rings on the fuel lines and attach the fuel lines to the fuel pipes on the engine. Tighten the retaining nuts for the fuel lines to 22 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

7

Turn the ignition on for two seconds, then turn it off for 10 seconds to pressurize the fuel system. Turn the ignition back on and correct any fuel leaks.

Properly working fuel injectors allow a vehicles engine to run and perform at a high level. However, even a slight clogging of an injector is enough to cause driveability issues with your vehicle. Its beneficial to be able to determine if a fuel injector is working properly.

Symptoms

There are several symptoms an automobile can display that will help you determine if your fuel injector is working properly, such as power loss to the vehicle. A car that hesitates when you attempt to take off from a dead stop is also a classic sign of fuel injector problems.

Testing

Another way to check and see if your fuel injectors are working properly is by running a flow test on them. The standard rate at which fuel should flow from the injectors can be compared with the injectors current flow rate. A flow that is not up to par indicates that your injectors have problems that need addressing.

Mileage

Yet another way to find clues about the condition of your injectors is by figuring out the mileage that has been traveled with them. Because experts suggest that fuel injectors should be cleaned before reaching 30,000 miles, distances over this benchmark indicate a need to at least have your fuel injectors checked.

A typical front end alignment consists of adjusting caster -- forward or rearward tilt of the steering axis; camber -- inward or outward tilt of the top of the tire; and toe -- inward or outward tilt of the front of the tire -- to prevent excessive tire wear, improve handling, and straighten an off center steering wheel. Many manufacturers, like Toyota, do not provide adjustment for caster and camber from the factory. In the 1997 Toyota Camry the toe angle is adjustable on all four wheels and, while caster is not adjustable, camber can be adjusted using aftermarket bolts in the struts.

Instructions

1

Apply the parking brake and start the engine. Center the steering wheel and turn off the engine. Apply the brakes and lock them in place using the brake pedal depressor. Clamp the alignment machines targets securely to all four wheels and level the targets using the built in bubble level. Compensate for wheel run-out according to the machines procedure.

2

Determine which wheels need a camber adjustment by comparing the initial readings of the alignment machine with the factory specifications. Remove the upper strut-to-steering knuckle mounting bolt using a wrench, socket, and ratchet.Install the adjustable aftermarket bolt in upper bolt hole and tighten it securely.

3

Loosen both strut-to-spindle mounting bolts on the right rear strut. Rotate the upper, adjustable aftermarket, bolt to adjust rear camber until it is within specifications. Rear camber in the 1997 Camry should be -.75 degrees +/- .75 degrees. Camber should also be equal on both sides. Tighten the strut bolts to 145 psi using a torque wrench. Adjust the left rear camber in the same manner.

4

Adjust the right rear toe angle by loosening the jam nuts on the right rear toe arm using a 21 mm wrench and twisting the adjuster nut until the toe is within manufacturers specification. The rear toe on the 1997 Camry should be .10 degrees +/- .05 degrees. Tighten the jam nuts securely. Adjust the left rear toe in the same manner.

5

Adjust the front camber to -.8 degrees +/- .75 degrees in the same manner as the rear camber and tighten the strut bolts to 156 foot-pounds using a torque wrench. Loosen the jam nut on the right front tie-rod and rotate the tie rod to adjust toe to 0 degrees +/- .05 degrees and tighten the jam nut securely.

6

Start the engine and center the steering wheel. Verify that the front toe angle is within specifications. Readjust front toe, if necessary. Remove the targets from the wheels and test drive the car to verify it drives properly.

The outer fairing blocks the wind. The inner fairing holds the tachometer, speedometer, radio, speakers and ignition. And the fairings on all Harley-Davidson FLHs come apart the same way. The inner fairing on an FLHX is connected to the fairing bracket with pins, or what Harley calls "dowels." You literally pry the components apart with your hands. Before you can do that, you must remove the outer fairing and windshield and disconnect the electrical components. Most, but not all, of the fasteners you will need to remove are T-27 Torx screws.

Instructions

Outer Fairing and Lights

1

Protect the finish on the front of the motorcycle by hanging a throw rug over the front fender. Straddle the fender. Remove the screws in the middle, right and left of the outer fairing just under the windshield with a Torx socket and a socket wrench.

2

Put an extension on the socket, straddle the seat and remove the Torx screws just outside and below the speakers.

3

Push the handlebars all the way right and use the same wrench, extension and socket to remove the screw just below the left fairing cap. Push the handlebars all the way to the left and remove the screw under the right fairing cap.

4

Push the fairing forward far enough to reach the wiring harness connection on the back of the headlight assembly. Disconnect the headlight by squeezing the sides of the connector with your fingers.

5

Straddle the front fender again and pull the front fairing with the headlight off the motorcycle. Remove the windshield. Set the big pieces aside.

6

Disconnect the front directional signals and passing lamp connectors from the front wiring harness. Remove the passing lamp assembly from the front forks with the same socket, extension and wrench.

Inner Fairing

7

Straddle the seat again and begin to remove the ignition by turning the key left to "unlock" and turning the knob all the way right to "access."

8

Slide a small screwdriver under the left side of the knob and depress the small release button. Turn the key another 60 degrees past "unlock" and pull the knob straight up to expose the switch post and nut.

9

Remove the switch nut with an open-end wrench. Remove the socket and collar from the switch post.

10

Pull the skirt down and off the inner fairing to expose more of the front wiring harness.

11

Slacken the clutch cable by completely loosening the clutch cable adjuster nut and the clutch cable adjuster locknut with two open-end wrenches.

12

Pry the retaining ring on the bottom of the clutch lever housing loose with a small screwdriver. Pull the clutch lever pivot pin out of the top of the clutch housing.

13

Unscrew the lever clutch housing from the left handlebar with a Torx socket and socket wrench. Pull the clutch lever free from the lever housing.

14

Disconnect the clutch cable from the clutch lever and feed the cable through the grommet on the bottom of the inner fairing to the front of the bike.

15

Fashion a matchbook cover into a cardboard shim that is between 1/8 inch and 5/32 inch thick. Put the shim between the front brake lever and housing to protect the stoplight switch.

16

Loosen the right handlebar switch housing screws and front master cylinder screws with a Torx socket and a socket wrench. Remove the switch housing and master cylinder.

17

Slide the throttle off the right end of the handlebar and remove the two throttle cables. Feed the throttle cables through the grommet on the bottom of the inner fairing to the front of the bike.

18

Disconnect the cigarette lighter from the wiring harness. Straddle the fender again and loosen the speaker adapter screws on both sides of the bike with a Torx socket and socket wrench.

19

Remove the speaker adapters. Disconnect the voltmeter and fuel gauge from the front wiring harness.

20

Pull the lower inner fairing off the mounting dowels on the fork bracket. Pull the fairing bracket off the mounting dowels on the fork bracket.

21

Lift the fairing bracket and inner fairing together to clear the fork bracket. Pull the inner fairing and fairing bracket apart and remove the inner fairing.

During the life of your Trailblazer, the bulbs in the headlight may burn out and need to be replaced. In order to replace these bulbs, the headlight assembly needs to be removed from the front of the vehicle. Removing the headlight assembly allows you to access the bulbs, which are connected to the sockets on the electrical connectors. Before starting this project, the bulbs will need to be purchased from an auto supply store.

Instructions

1

Open the drivers side door and pull the hood release lever to release the hood. Lift the hood up and set the support bar.

2

Find the snap clips that are used to secure the grill to the front of the vehicle. Pry the retainer clips with the flat head screwdriver to release them. Pull the grill off of the vehicle.

3

Find the retainer clip that is located in the upper left or right of the headlight. Push up on the retainer clip with the flat head screwdriver. Look under the fender, beneath the headlight, and locate the second retainer clip. Push this retainer clip up with the screwdriver.

4

Press the release tab that is on the back of the headlight assembly. Pull the electrical connector out of the headlight. Pull the headlight assembly out and set it on a bench or table.

5

Pull off the two rubber caps on the back of the headlight assembly to expose the headlight bulbs. Turn the socket counterclockwise and pull the bulb out of the headlight. Lift up the tab on the electrical harness and then pull the bulb out of the socket.

6

Insert a new bulb into the socket and then place the bulb back into the headlight. Turn the socket to the right or clockwise to lock it in place. Set the rubber caps back in place over the electrical connector.

7

Set the headlight back in place and then reconnect the electrical connector. Push the upper and lower retainer clips back in place to secure the headlight.

8

Set the grill back in place and then push on it firmly to secure the retainer clips to the frame.

If you are driving down the road in your Chevy Tahoe and you notice a light on the dash for "tire failure" or "low tire pressure" you might become alarmed. Today more and more vehicles are being manufactured with tire pressure monitor systems called TPMS. The TPMS was designed for driving safety because most people never take the time to even look at their tires or check the air pressure. Low air pressure in a tire is the leading cause of tire failure and can lead to accidents. If you have a TPMS monitor that is not working properly, you can troubleshoot it with a few easy steps.

Instructions

1

Walk around your Tahoe and look at each tire to see if one of them looks low.

2

Slide the air pressure gauge over each valve stem to check each tire and make sure that it is inflated to the proper psi. The proper psi is noted on the car door. Never go by the maximum inflation noted on the tire. You must always go by what is indicated on the car door. Improper inflation will cause the TPMS unit to flag a problem.

3

Take your TPMS computer scanner out of the box and become familiar with the settings. You will need to push the buttons on the front to find your make and model of car. Press the button to enter the scan mode and walk around to each tire. Press the button at each tire until you get an indication that the scanner cannot find the TPMS unit. This is the unit that needs to be changed.

Jeep introduced the Wrangler model in 1987 and continued the YJ version until 1995. The door panel on the 1994 Jeep Wrangler can be removed to access the interior components of the door. Speakers and door lock assemblies often need maintenance, and removing the door panel is the only way to access them. The panel in each model-year of Jeep Wrangler is identical and removed the same way.

Instructions

1

Remove the two Phillips head screws that hold the interior door handle in place. There is a screw at each end of the handle.

2

Remove the Phillips head screw on the door handle lock mechanism.

3

Pry off the plastic panel from the metal surround with a flat head screwdriver. Place the screwdriver between the plastic panel and the metal door and slide it in between until each plastic clip has been removed. Work around the door in a clockwise fashion until the panel is removed.

4

Disconnect the locking rods from the interior door handle. The locking rods connect to the handle and need to be pulled up through the bracket manually to be removed.

5

Remove the panel and place it on a flat surface. If the panel needs to be re-installed, do so in the reverse order of removal.

The Chevrolet Cavalier might have been a pretty decent little car in itself, but a certain malady followed the name wherever it went. Not only was the Cavalier not quite the import-killer that GM had hoped; older buyers had never forgotten that it was essentially a rebadged relative to the worst rebadged travesty in history: the Cadillac Cimarron. The Cobalt that replaced the Cavalier, free of such burdensome history, rose quickly from its 2004 debut to become one of Americas favorite compact cars.

Dash Lights

The 2008 Cobalt, like most modern cars, used a few different dash bulbs. The basic bulbs were single, white LED units from Equus, part number 9903. Part number 9904 was three 9903 bulbs splined into the same harness. The 5-inch Autometer tachometer uses a white, twist-in bulb, part number 3219. The gauges also use a few Autometer-brand, colored LED bulbs: the green LED is part number 3283, the blue is number 3286 and the red LED number 3294.

The VW Polo is a compact car based off of the VW Golf. In the North American market, it is classed as a sub-compact. It actually uses many of the same parts as the Golf, including the side mirrors. While the Polo is a very small car, it can break its side mirrors too. This broken glass must be removed before a new glass mirror can be put in. Luckily, the glass is just held in by glue, so all it takes is some hard scraping.

Instructions

1

Park the VW Polo in a well-lit garage or in your driveway during a bright day. Make sure to pull the emergency brake to keep the car from moving while you work on it.

2

Use a flathead screwdriver as a pry bar and slip the tip under the lip of the mirror glass. Pry the mirror off with gentle rocking motions along the edge of the glass. Dont worry if the glass shatters. Just work the individual pieces off.

3

Scrape the remaining glue off with a razor. Use short scraping motions to get off the big pieces. Once all the lumps are off, soak the tip of a towel in solvent and work it on the back plate of the mirror. This prepares the back plate for the glue that will hold the new mirror in place. The cleaner the backplate, the better the new glue will bond.

The Toyota Sienna is a family minivan that has been in production since 1997, and the second generation of this vehicle includes the 2004 through the 2010 model years. The only engine available for the 2005 Toyota Sienna is the 3MZ-FE model, which has a double overhead camshaft. The majority of the timing belt installation for this vehicle deals with keeping the crankshaft and camshafts in the proper position during the procedure.

Instructions

1

Remove the negative battery cable with a socket wrench. Disconnect both windshield wiper assemblies and the panel cover for the front cowl. Remove the hose to the windshield washer reservoir and both cowl top ventilator louvers. Detach the electrical connector for the windshield wiper motor. Remove the outer front cowl panel.

2

Raise the vehicle and support it on jack stands. Remove the right front wheel with a lug wrench. Disconnect the pivot bolt, adjusting lock bolt and and adjusting bolt on the accessory drive with a socket wrench, and remove the accessory drive belt. Unplug the electrical connector for the alternator and disconnect the alternator.

3

Loosen the adjusting bolt for the power steering pump and detach the drive belt. Disconnect the hose for the coolant reservoir. Remove the engines right mounting stay and moving control rod. with a socket wrench. Disconnect the No. 2 mounting bracket on the right side of the engine.

4

Disconnect the crankshaft pulley bolt with pulley holding tool 09213-54015, companion flange holding tool 09330-00021 and bolt tool 91651-60855. Detach the crankshaft pulley from the crankshaft with puller set 09950-50011.

5

Remove the lower timing belt cover and disconnect the timing belt guide from the crankshaft with a socket wrench. Remove the wire protector clamps from the upper cover of the timing belt, and disconnect the upper cover. Remove the right engine mounting brace.

6

Replace the crankshaft pulley bolt, and rotate the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing marks. The notch on the oil pump must align with the dimple on the crankshaft sprocket. The timing marks on the camshaft sprockets must also align with the marks on the rear timing belt cover.

7

Disconnect the timing belt tensioner and timing belt with a socket wrench. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to realign the timing marks if necessary. Install the new timing belt to the crankshaft sprocket and proceed with the installation in a counterclockwise direction. Place the timing belt on the water pump pulley, left camshaft sprocket, No. 2 idler pulley, right camshaft sprocket and No. 1 idler pulley.

8

Depress the pushrod for the timing belt tensioner into its housing with tool 981-9807 and secure it in place with a 1.27mm Allen wrench. Connect the timing belt tensioner and torque its mounting bolts to 20 foot pounds with a torque wrench. Pull the Allen wrench from the timing belt tensioner housing to release the tensioner.

9

Rotate the crankshaft clockwise two full turns to align the timing marks again, and disconnect the crankshaft pulley bolt. Fasten the engines right mounting bracket with a socket wrench and torque the mounting bolts to 21 foot pounds with a torque wrench.

10

Connect the upper cover for the timing belt with a socket wrench. Install the timing belt guide to the crankshaft so that the cup side faces outward, and replace the lower timing belt cover.

11

Connect the crankshaft pulley with pulley holding tool 09213-54015, companion flange holding tool 09330-00021 and bolt tool 91651-60855. Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to 159 foot pounds with a torque wrench. Install the remaining components by performing steps one through three in reverse order.

The 75th Anniversary 1978 Electra Glide came equipped with what Harley-Davidson calls rider "footboards," or floorboards. The boards were fixed rather than retractable, shaped like half-moons and covered with rubber. Replacements are still available from aftermarket suppliers. The original boards had two female mounts and bolted to a footboard mount. If all of that has disappeared in the last 30 years, both contemporary and original equipment replacement floorboard mounting kits are available.

Instructions

1

Remove your right foot peg by turning the bolt head with a socket wrench while you immobilize the nut with a box wrench.

2

Bolt the replacement right footboard mounts to the frame of the Electra Glide with a socket wrench, using the nut, bolt and washers that came with your mount. Put thread locker on the bolt threads. Tighten with a breaker bar.

3

Bolt the right footboard bracket, if one came with your mounting kit, to the right footboard mount or mounts. In most cases, the components bolt together with a single hex nut and lock washer. Some contemporary footboard mounts may be secured with an Allen bolt.

4

Put thread locker on the threads of the exposed footboard mounting stud or the original equipment replacement mounting bolts. Tighten the hex nut with a socket and breaker bar. Alternately, put thread locker on the threads of the Allen bolt of your contemporary footboard mount and tighten with an Allen wrench.

5

Bolt the fixed right footboards to the right footboard mount by inserting the two male mounts into the two female mounts. Secure the two pairs of mounts by turning the hex bolt heads with a socket wrench, immobilizing the nuts with a box wrench. Some mounting kits require you to secure the two pairs of mounts by tightening an Allen head bolt with an Allen wrench.

6

Repeat these steps to mount the left footboard.

Depending on the year, make and model of your Ford F-150, the vehicle may have a temperature sensor and a sender: If the truck as a gauge, it will have both; if not, it will only have the sensor. The sender may be located in the radiator or near the thermostat housing. It reads and sends the temperature of the water/antifreeze mixture to the gauge. The sensor also sends the temperature of the water/antifreeze mixture to the computer, so that the computer can make adjustments in timing, air and fuel mixture, and other adjustments needed by the truck to run ai its optimum performance levels and get the best fuel mileage.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of the F-150.

2

Inspect the front, center of the engine and locate the rear of the thermostat housing. Find the thermostat housing by following the top radiator hose from the radiator to the block.

3

Place your hand on the sensor that is mounted in the intake manifold, just behind the thermostat housing. The sensor has a round plug, which has wires coming from the wiring harness plugged into it. If you remove it, the base will look like a large bolt that screws into the intake manifold.

4

Push the plastic harness connector out and lift the wiring harness plug out of the sensor. Using the socket, unscrew the coolant temperature sensor from the intake manifold.

5

Wipe a thin layer of anti-seize compound on the threads of the coolant temperature sensor. Screw the sensor into the intake manifold. Plug the wiring harness back in.

Repairing a 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 equipped with the 5.9 liter Cummins diesel motor may be simple or difficult, depending on the required repairs. The 5.9 liter, 24-valve Cummins diesel was available in model years 1998 through 2002 before being replaced with a common rail injection system. Many repairs may be completed by a do-it-yourself owner, while others should be performed by a professional mechanic. The first step in repairing your Dodge 2500 is to identify the problem and all affected parts.

Instructions

1

Diagnose the issue with the Ram by evaluating the pickups performance and referring to the manufacturers auto repair guide. Stalling, slow throttle response or lack of power may indicate an issue with the fuel systems or turbo charger. Trouble shifting could mean a transmission problem. The 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 is also equipped with a data port located underneath of the dash board on the drivers side. Plug a code reader, available at most auto parts stores or through a professional mechanic, into the port and read any codes that may indicate issues with one or more of the trucks operating systems.

2

Identify the components and parts that operate the affected systems and test their performance. Note any under-performing, or broken, parts for replacement. Check to make sure that routine vehicle maintenance, such as oil change and transmission service intervals, are also up to date.

3

Remove broken, or malfunctioning parts, and take them to a local auto parts store to match for replacement. Use only parts that are application-specific to the 2001 Dodge Ram 2500, or intended for universal use. Install new parts according to the manufacturers specifications and perform any neglected routine maintenance.

4

Test drive the vehicle under variable driving conditions and evaluate whether or not the issue has been solved by the replaced or repaired parts. If not, refer back to the manufacturers auto repair guide and re-evaluate the source of the Ram 2500s problem.