So Fix it

You can replace the rubber gasket on your windshield from home in about a half hours time. Sometimes the rubber gasket can deteriorate over time due to age and weather. You usually dont need to remove the windshield to do this job. The gasket and molding strip are what hold the windshield in place. You just need a few items purchased from your local auto parts store to get the job done. Youll need to replace the gasket if you have a lot of condensation inside the passengers cabin which can interfere with visibility.

Instructions

1

Cut the gasket around the windshield with a razor knife. Have an assistant stand outside of the vehicle to catch the windshield as you push it from the inside out.

2

Place 1/16-inch molding cord into the new gasket and wrap it around the windshield, starting at the center of the bottom of the windshield. Wrap it around the entire edge of the windshield. Allow the ends to overlap by 3 inches. Leave a 12-inch cord hanging out. Secure the pieces that overlap with masking tape.

3

Spray the new gasket and the metallic lip of the windshield opening with a mixture of soap and water.

4

Remount the windshield into the windshield opening, bottom edge first, from the outside of the vehicle. Have your assistant get inside the vehicle while you push on the windshield from the outside. Ask your assistant to pull the end of the cord until the windshield slides into place. Use the putty knife to push the molding into the channel.

The Sonoma compact pickup truck was introduced by General Motors to the North American market in 1982. Sonoma pickups were known for their durable and reliable engines, but they still needed to be serviced from time to time. One of the problems the Sonoma engine could face was a blown head gasket.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable. Drain the engine coolant. Remove the engine cooling fan assembly. Remove the power steering pump mounting bracket. Remove the power steering pump mounting bracket stud from the cylinder head.

2

Remove the lower intake manifold. Remove the exhaust manifold. Remove the spark plug wire harness and the spark plug wire support. Remove the ground wire bolt and the ground wire from the rear of the cylinder head. Make sure you secure the ground wire out of the way.

3

Remove the bolt holding the fuel pipe bracket to the rear of the cylinder head. Now you have access to the cylinder head gasket. Remove the cylinder head and gasket. Clean the engine block and the cylinder head sealing surfaces. Clean the cylinder head bolts and the engine block bolt holes.

4

Install the new cylinder head gasket. To re-install all parts follow the same procedure in reverse.

The Lumina was manufactured by Chevrolet and first introduced on the North American market in 1990. It featured three different body types. Chevrolet Luminas engines were equipped with multiport fuel injection system that required a special intake manifold. The intake manifold is designed to distribute the air fuel mixture in the engine. As the fluids pass constantly through the intake manifold, the gaskets get corroded and require to be replaced.

Instructions

Removal

1

Disconnect the batterys negative (ground) cable to prevent injury. Disconnect the vacuum hose connection from the throttle body air inlet duct. Disconnect the wiring harness connection from the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor in the throttle body air inlet duct. Remove the throttle body air inlet duct. Drain the engine coolant from the cooling system.

2

Remove the accelerator control and cruise control cables with bracket from the throttle body. Remove the wiring harness from the retainer. Disconnect the throttle position (TP) sensor and idle air control (IAC) valve wiring harness connectors from the throttle body. Disconnect the front spark plug wires.

3

Disconnect the wiring harness attachment clips of camshaft position sensor (CMP). Remove the nut from the coolant pipe to the throttle body. Disconnect the thermostat bypass pipe coolant hoses from the throttle body. Remove the engine mount struts. Disconnect the right spark plug wire retaining clips. Remove the spark plug wires at the coil pack.

4

Remove the ignition coil bracket with the coils, the purge solenoid, the vacuum canister solenoid, the vacuum lines, and the electrical connections. Disconnect the vacuum hose at the manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor. Remove the Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) sensor and the bracket. Disconnect the emission control vacuum harness. Disconnect the vacuum booster hose, automatic transaxle vacuum modulator hose, heather and air conditioning vacuum source hose and fuel pressure hose from the intake manifold.

5

Remove the drive belt. Remove the front generator brace. Remove the rear generator brace. Remove the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve. Remove the right-hand intake manifold bolts and studs. Remove the left-hand upper intake manifold bolts. Remove the intake manifold. Remove the intake manifold gasket.

Installation

6

Install the throttle body. Lay the intake manifold gasket on the cylinder block. Position the intake manifold on the new gasket. Loosely tighten the left hand intake manifold bolts, the right hand intake manifold bolts and the studs. Then, tighten the intake manifold bolts and studs 18 foot-pounds of torque.

7

Install the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve. Install the rear generator brace and the front generator brace. Connect the vacuum hose connections to the intake manifold. Those connections include the vacuum booster hose, automatic transaxle vacuum modulator hose, heather and air conditioning vacuum source hose and the fuel regulator hose.

8

Plug in the emission control vacuum harness. Install the manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor and bracket. Connect the vacuum hose at the manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor and the intake manifold. Install the ignition coil bracket with the coils, the purge solenoid, the vacuum canister solenoid, and the spark plug wire retainers. Connect the plug wires to the ignition module. Connect the vacuum lines, and the electrical connections. Return the engine to the proper position.

9

Install the engine mount struts. Connect the thermostat bypass pipe and the coolant hoses to the throttle body. Connect the camshaft position (CMP) sensor wiring harness, spark plug wire harness and engine wiring harness. Install the throttle position (TP) sensor and idle air control (IAC) valve.

10

Install the accelerator control and cruise control cables with bracket to the throttle body. Connect the wiring harness to the retainer. Fill the cooling system with engine coolant. Install the throttle body air inlet duct. Connect the wiring harness connection to the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor in the throttle body air inlet duct and then connect the vacuum hose connection to the throttle body air inlet duct. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

Sometimes being a trend-setter can be a curse. When they debuted, LH-chassis cars like the Intrepid and Chrysler 300M were visually cutting-edge automobiles that looked more like road-going Le Mans prototypes than commuter sedans. Time and trends may march on, but these cars remain just as good at everything they were good at when new.

Part Costs

Head gaskets themselves arent particularly expensive -- perhaps $100 for the pair at 2013 prices. Getting to them though, means tearing half the engine apart, and thats where youre spending your money in parts and labor. A full upper-end gasket set that includes the head gaskets, intake gaskets and everything else youll need to replace them will run you about $250; add another $75 at least for oil, fluids and sealants. So, call it $325 to $350 in parts.

Labor and Total Costs

Shops determine labor costs according to "book time," which is how much time a job should take for the average mechanic. Multiply that by the shops hourly rate, and youve got the labor cost for the procedure. The book time for replacing one head gasket is 7.4 to 7.9 hours, and you can expect to pay 9.4 of book time for both. Most shops currently charge $65 to $100 an hour, so labor will run you about $480 to $740 for one head gasket, and $610 to $940 for both. So, adding together parts and labor, expect to spend between $935 and $1,300 to have both head gaskets replaced.

A head gasket is set between the engine block and the cylinder heads, maintaining compression within the combustion chamber and stopping the coolant from leaking into the engine cylinders. This part needs to be replaced if you see white colored smoke coming out of your tailpipe. This is caused when coolant blows by the gasket and burns in the cylinders during combustion. If you need to replace your head gasket, you should know the steps to proper installation.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal and drain out your cooling system. Be certain the coolant does not enter the cylinders during head gasket replacement.

2

Jack up the front end of your car and place it on jack stands.

3

Remove cylinders head bolts and lift the head off the engine. Remove the old head gasket and clean the area where the new gasket will be placed.

4

Inspect the head before you install the new gasket. Place the new gasket on the exact same head where the old gasket was housed.

5

Push the corners of the gasket in firmly. Pay special attention to where the cam journals go to be certain the gasket fits around all of the components. If you cannot obtain a tight seal use a room temperature vulcanant, or RTV, on each corner of the cam journals.

The intake manifold is sealed to the cylinder heads of an engine to prevent coolant leaks from occurring. If coolant escapes, it can run all over the engine and other parts, which can lead to other vehicle problems. Its beneficial to have information regarding why engine manifold gaskets go bad.

Causes

Leaks are often the reason that engine manifold gaskets go bad. Corrosion can wear the gaskets metal over time, which causes the manifold gaskets to lose their leak-free seal. A metal epoxy applied with extreme heat can repair the gasket and allow it to seal efficiently once again.

Types

There are several types of vehicles with engines that are known for having manifold gaskets that are prone to go bad. General Motors makes several of these engines, including V8 engines such as the 5.0L and 5.7L.

Time Frame

Manifold gaskets can last in good working order on a vehicle for many thousands of miles before they go bad. Some vehicle engines are equipped with plastic manifold gaskets that may not last as long. Plastic gaskets can perform well to around 70,000 miles before they go bad and need replacing.

When a head gasket fails, coolant begins to leak into the crankcase and mixes with the engine oil. This mixture creates a milky-like substance that will coat anything and everything it touches. Coolant will ruin the crankshaft and connecting rod bearings, and the milky remnants of the mixture will clog oil passages, causing precisely oiled components to fail. In most cases, a blown head gasket can be prevented if the driver knows what leads to head gasket failure.

Overheating

Overheating is the No. 1 cause of head gasket failure. When the engine overheats, the engine head and block will expand and can crush the head gasket, creating an immediate leak. Even if the engine doesnt get hot enough to warp the cylinder head, excessive operation at high temperatures can cause the material on the gasket to become brittle and crack, creating a number of leaks.

Preignition

Preignition puts serious strain on the head gasket and is commonly associated with an overheating engine. Preignition occurs when hot spots develop within the combustion chamber, which become a source for ignition. When this happens, combustion will occur before the spark plug actually fires. The force created by the premature combustion puts undo stress on the head gasket and over time will cause it to fail.

Detonation

Detonation, also known as spark knock, is essentially improper combustion. When this happens, multiple flames are created inside the combustion chamber instead of one, causing a sudden spike in pressure within the combustion chamber. This extra pressure causes excessive stress to the head gasket as well as the pistons, valves and piston-connecting rods and is accompanied by a pinging noise during acceleration. Detonation is commonly caused by fuel with a low octane rating, a problem within the exhaust gas recirculation system and over-advanced spark timing.

Improper Cylinder Head Installation

If major engine work was recently performed and the cylinder head had to be removed, it is possible the mechanic doing the work failed to torque the head bolts properly or failed to torque the head bolts in the proper sequence during installation. Head gaskets require a certain amount of pressure to be maintained between the cylinder head and the engine block to load and keep a good and tight permanent seal.

Preventative Measures

Always keep an eye on the temperature gauge. Any time overheating begins to occur, shut the engine down, and diagnose and repair the problem. If you notice spark knock or pinging while driving, increase the octane rating of your fuel and check the exhaust gas recirculation system for faults. On older cars, adjust your air-to-fuel ratio accordingly. It is also very important to keep up on the maintenance of the engine ignition system; if your vehicle uses a distributor system, replace the cap and rotor according to the manufacturers maintenance schedule and always replace your plugs and wires every 15,000 miles or so for optimal performance.

Changing the valve cover gasket on a 2000 Chevy S10 2.2L requires some mechanical skill, as there are a few components that need to be removed in order to reach that gasket. However, with the right tools and some patience, the do-it-yourself repair is well worth the effort, because it will save a lot of money. The job is somewhat labor-intensive, which makes it costly at repair shops. The new gasket is inexpensive and easy-to-find, most auto parts stores should have one in stock for a model as common as the 2000 Chevy S10 2.2L

Instructions

1

Let the engine cool completely.

2

Remove black plastic air duct on the left side of the engine by separating it from the intake hose. In most S10 models built between 1998 and 2003, including the 2.2L version, you need to loosen a few clamps with a screwdriver to pull the air duct off the hose. In some models, the air duct is just stuck on the hose and comes off when you pull hard enough.

3

Locate the throttle to the left off the valve cover. Pull the cable to unsnap it from the bracket.

4

Pull the brake booster hose from its point on top of the valve cover.

5

Remove the valve cover bolts by using the ratchet, the extension and the socket set. There should be eight No. 10 bolts.

6

Take off the valve and scrape out the old gasket, which most likely will be hard from wear. Make sure no residue of the old gasket is in the mold. Clean the mold with a rag and wipe off gunk and dirt that might be stuck.

7

Place the new gasket in the mold, making sure it fits tightly. Reassemble the other components in the same order you disassembled them.

The mounting flanges of metal and plastic parts contain imperfections that allow fluids and gases to leak past two connected parts. Gaskets seal the imperfections to keep fluids from leaking past. In time, heat and pressure cause an installed gasket to bond to one or both mounting surfaces between parts. Permatex gasket remover breaks the bond between the gasket and the mounting surface of the part.

Instructions

1

Move the part with the adhered gasket to a well-ventilated area.

2

Cover the area of the part surrounding the gasket with masking tape, if the part is painted. Permatex gasket remover will damage painted surfaces.

3

Shake the Permatex gasket remover for the time specified on the back of the aerosol can.

4

Turn the can of gasket remover upside down. Press the angled brush located on the top of the can against the stuck gasket. Apply gasket remover to the entire surface of the gasket. Allow the remover to sit on the gasket for 15 to 20 minutes.

5

Scrape the gasket from the part with a plastic scraper to avoid damaging the parts mounting flange.

6

Wipe the mounting surface of the part with a clean rag to remove any gasket residue remaining on the parts mounting flange.

A head gasket seals an engine as well as the pathways of oil and coolant within the engine. An intake manifold gasket seals the cylinder heads and the intake manifold together. Information on these parts can be beneficial as they can both experience leaks leading to other problems if left unchecked.

Manifold Gasket Leak

A leak in the intake manifold gasket can lead to coolant running down the sides of a vehicles engine. Some vehicles have become well known for springing leaks in their intake manifold gaskets. These vehicles, however, are usually equipped with plastic manifold gaskets which tend to fail sooner than other gaskets.

Head Gasket Leak

A head gasket can leak either coolant or compression. Coolant leaks in a head gasket will be discovered fairly quickly due to the fact that an engine will run hot as a result. Although compression leaks cause engines to lose a lot of their power, they will not prohibit you from continuing to drive the vehicle.

Considerations

Some motors are prone to coolant leaks in their intake manifold gaskets. There are also some vehicles which have motors prone to head gasket failure. Review consumer guides and other forums to determine if a particular vehicle is subject to head gasket failure more often than others.

The New Beetle comes equipped with a variety of engines, including a 1.8-liter engine with a turbocharger. The cylinder head in a New Beetle is a platform that sits on top of the engine block and forms part of the combustion chamber. A gasket between the cylinder head and engine block ensures a tight seal between the two components. The procedure for removing the cylinder head gasket in a New Beetle requires you to put the lock carrier in the service position. The lock carrier is the front assembly that includes the front bumper, headlights and radiator support.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the front bumper from the lock carrier with a socket wrench. Remove any electrical wiring needed to move the lock carrier into the service position. Disconnect the quick-release screws from the front insulation panel. Then, remove the air guide between the air filter and lock carrier. Release the retaining clamps that attach the wiring harness to the left radiator frame.

2

Remove the No. 2 mounting bolts from the lock carrier with a socket wrench and support it with Support 3369. Remove the remaining mounting bolts from the lock carrier and pull the lock carrier out as far as it will go. Fasten 6 mm bolts to the lock carrier and fender to secure the lock carrier in place.

3

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal to ensure the engine doesnt start while you are removing the cylinder head gasket. Detach the cooling fan drive belt from its pulleys and remove the cooling fan from the engine.

4

Drain the coolant from the radiator into a container and store for later use. Disconnect the intake manifold from the engine with a socket wrench. Detach the accessory drive belts from their pulleys.

5

Remove the regulator valves for the wastegate bypass and the evaporative emissions canister from the engine with a socket wrench. Detach the mass airflow sensor from the engine.

6

Disconnect the housing for the air cleaner with a socket wrench. Detach the wiring harnesses for the engine-coolant temperature sensor and any other electrical components needed to access the cylinder head. Detach the breather line from the crankcase.

7

Remove the fuel lines and oil line from the cylinder head. Disconnect the heat shield and turbocharger from the exhaust manifold with a socket wrench. Detach the coolant hose from the rear of the cylinder head.

8

Detach the upper cover for the timing belt with a socket wrench. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing mark on the crankshaft with the top dead center mark on the crankcase. Loosen the Torx bolt on the timing belt tensioner with a T45 Torx wrench and push the tensioner down to relieve the tension on the timing belt.

9

Remove the timing belt from the gear of the camshaft, and remove the Torx bolt from the timing belt tensioner with the T45 Torx wrench. Rotate the bracket for the timing belt tensioner forward to access the valve cover and then remove the valve cover with a socket wrench.

10

Disconnect the mounting bolts for the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Lift the cylinder head from the engine block and remove the gasket from the engine block. Clean the remaining traces of gasket material from the cylinder head and engine block with a gasket scraper. Clean the bolt holes on the cylinder head with a shop cloth and blow them dry with compressed air.