So Fix it

Power steering hoses carry fluid to and from the steering gear to operate the power steering system, and the pump supplies the necessary pressure for operation of the power steering rack or gearbox.

Power Steering Hose

Multiple power steering hoses are in a typical power steering unit. The cost of the parts required to repair the hose ranges from $60 to $100 in a common domestic car, like the Ford Taurus, according to RepairPal in Nov. 2010, and between $15 and $225 for a new foreign car like the Mercedes-Benz CLS550.

Power Steering Pump

The cost of parts for a power steering pump repair in a common domestic car ranges from $120 to $151, and from $210 to $640 in a foreign luxury car; although prices for pumps in auto parts stores can exceed $1000.

Labor

Labor to repair a power steering hose ranges from $100 to $125 for a common domestic car and from $180 to $230 in a luxury foreign car. Power steering pump labor costs range from $120 to $150 for a common domestic car and from $220 to $280 in a luxury foreign car.

Bearings are an integral part of a machines moving components and reduce the amount of friction on rotating parts. Bearing failure is common in high-mileage vehicles and older machines, particularly those in high-wear conditions such as off-road vehicles. In most cases, bearings fit tightly into their housings, making installation difficult. Freezing bearings causes the metal to contract slightly and theore makes it easier to fit the bearing into its housing. When used in conjunction with heating of the housing metal, freezing a bearing is highly effective as an installation method.

Instructions

1

Place bearing in a plastic bag and pack it in dry ice. The dry ice will cool the metal and cause it to shrink in a process called thermal reduction. Leave the bearing in the dry ice for at least 20 minutes before use.

2

Heat the housing metal using a propane torch immediately prior to installation of bearing. This will cause the metal to expand in a process called thermal expansion and will make the housing opening larger to allow for an easier bearing fit. Heating should be performed slowly and evenly without causing metal discoloration.

3

Remove the bearing from the dry ice and plastic, then place it 1/5 of the way into the housing. Use a pair of pliers or channel locks to avoid obtaining burns from the hot housing metal. Ensure it is properly aligned, especially in cases where the bearing fits snugly into the housing. This will prevent damaging and buckling of the bearing material.

4

Tap the bearing into place gently with a deadblow hammer. If the bearing fit is loose, allow the housing metal to cool and the bearing metal to warm before tapping the bearing into place. If large amounts of force are necessary, place a wooden block between the bearing surface and deadblow hammer to prevent bearing surface damage.

5

Measure the recess distance as needed using a precision ruler such as a T-ruler. If the bearing must be placed deep into the housing metal, use a wooden dowel just wide enough to fit into the housing metal to tap the bearing in place. Check the recess distance often to avoid recessing the bearing too far.

Sometimes being a trend-setter can be a curse. When they debuted, LH-chassis cars like the Intrepid and Chrysler 300M were visually cutting-edge automobiles that looked more like road-going Le Mans prototypes than commuter sedans. Time and trends may march on, but these cars remain just as good at everything they were good at when new.

Part Costs

Head gaskets themselves arent particularly expensive -- perhaps $100 for the pair at 2013 prices. Getting to them though, means tearing half the engine apart, and thats where youre spending your money in parts and labor. A full upper-end gasket set that includes the head gaskets, intake gaskets and everything else youll need to replace them will run you about $250; add another $75 at least for oil, fluids and sealants. So, call it $325 to $350 in parts.

Labor and Total Costs

Shops determine labor costs according to "book time," which is how much time a job should take for the average mechanic. Multiply that by the shops hourly rate, and youve got the labor cost for the procedure. The book time for replacing one head gasket is 7.4 to 7.9 hours, and you can expect to pay 9.4 of book time for both. Most shops currently charge $65 to $100 an hour, so labor will run you about $480 to $740 for one head gasket, and $610 to $940 for both. So, adding together parts and labor, expect to spend between $935 and $1,300 to have both head gaskets replaced.

The Toyota Sienna is a family minivan that has been in production since 1997, and the second generation of this vehicle includes the 2004 through the 2010 model years. The only engine available for the 2005 Toyota Sienna is the 3MZ-FE model, which has a double overhead camshaft. The majority of the timing belt installation for this vehicle deals with keeping the crankshaft and camshafts in the proper position during the procedure.

Instructions

1

Remove the negative battery cable with a socket wrench. Disconnect both windshield wiper assemblies and the panel cover for the front cowl. Remove the hose to the windshield washer reservoir and both cowl top ventilator louvers. Detach the electrical connector for the windshield wiper motor. Remove the outer front cowl panel.

2

Raise the vehicle and support it on jack stands. Remove the right front wheel with a lug wrench. Disconnect the pivot bolt, adjusting lock bolt and and adjusting bolt on the accessory drive with a socket wrench, and remove the accessory drive belt. Unplug the electrical connector for the alternator and disconnect the alternator.

3

Loosen the adjusting bolt for the power steering pump and detach the drive belt. Disconnect the hose for the coolant reservoir. Remove the engines right mounting stay and moving control rod. with a socket wrench. Disconnect the No. 2 mounting bracket on the right side of the engine.

4

Disconnect the crankshaft pulley bolt with pulley holding tool 09213-54015, companion flange holding tool 09330-00021 and bolt tool 91651-60855. Detach the crankshaft pulley from the crankshaft with puller set 09950-50011.

5

Remove the lower timing belt cover and disconnect the timing belt guide from the crankshaft with a socket wrench. Remove the wire protector clamps from the upper cover of the timing belt, and disconnect the upper cover. Remove the right engine mounting brace.

6

Replace the crankshaft pulley bolt, and rotate the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing marks. The notch on the oil pump must align with the dimple on the crankshaft sprocket. The timing marks on the camshaft sprockets must also align with the marks on the rear timing belt cover.

7

Disconnect the timing belt tensioner and timing belt with a socket wrench. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to realign the timing marks if necessary. Install the new timing belt to the crankshaft sprocket and proceed with the installation in a counterclockwise direction. Place the timing belt on the water pump pulley, left camshaft sprocket, No. 2 idler pulley, right camshaft sprocket and No. 1 idler pulley.

8

Depress the pushrod for the timing belt tensioner into its housing with tool 981-9807 and secure it in place with a 1.27mm Allen wrench. Connect the timing belt tensioner and torque its mounting bolts to 20 foot pounds with a torque wrench. Pull the Allen wrench from the timing belt tensioner housing to release the tensioner.

9

Rotate the crankshaft clockwise two full turns to align the timing marks again, and disconnect the crankshaft pulley bolt. Fasten the engines right mounting bracket with a socket wrench and torque the mounting bolts to 21 foot pounds with a torque wrench.

10

Connect the upper cover for the timing belt with a socket wrench. Install the timing belt guide to the crankshaft so that the cup side faces outward, and replace the lower timing belt cover.

11

Connect the crankshaft pulley with pulley holding tool 09213-54015, companion flange holding tool 09330-00021 and bolt tool 91651-60855. Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to 159 foot pounds with a torque wrench. Install the remaining components by performing steps one through three in reverse order.

A high-pitched squeal when you start your car is more than just an ear-piercing annoyance. It is a sign that there is something wrong that needs to be fixed right away.

Belts

If your car squeals at start-up, the culprit is most likely the belt system. Most newer cars use a single, serpentine belt; older models may have as many as three belts. Look closely at the belt to see if it is worn, torn or otherwise compromised. Replace damaged belts immediately.

Tensioner

If the belt seems to be in good shape then the problem may be with the tensioner. The tensioner controls the belts tighteness on the pulley system. If the belt is loose it can shimmy back and forth on the alternator, water pump, A/C unit or drive pulley. This movement may cause excessive and premature wear.

Slipage

Squealing may be due to a cold or dew-covered belt. This is most common if a car is parked outdoors overnight. A cold or wet belt may slip for the first few seconds until the rubber has warmed up.