Showing posts with label for. Show all posts
Showing posts with label for. Show all posts

Friday, May 16, 2014

How to Wet Sand for Epoxy Paint

How to Wet Sand for Epoxy Paint

Epoxy paint can be difficult to sand with good results. Wet sanding is often considered the best approach, and there is no clogged sandpaper or dust produced during the process. Wet sanding is done with waterproof sandpaper. This sandpaper is made from closed coat, silicon carbide. Waterproof sandpaper can be purchased at automotive paint supply stores. Learning how to wet sand epoxy paint is not difficult and just requires a little bit of practice.

Instructions

    1

    Fill a clean 5-gallon bucket and a spray bottle with water.

    2

    Fit a rubber sanding block with waterproof sandpaper. Use 60-grit sandpaper for the first sanding and follow up with 220-grit sandpaper.

    3

    Dip the sanding block into the bucket and begin sanding the epoxy paint. Wet the sanding block as needed, or use the spray bottle to wet the surface of the epoxy paint as you sand.

    4

    Wipe away the water and excess sanding material from the epoxy paint with a rubber-bladed window washer. Rinse the surface and the rubber-bladed window washer thoroughly between grits. This will prevent you from crossing the coarse-grit sandpaper with the finer-grit sandpaper.

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Saturday, May 10, 2014

The Average Cost for Door Replacement on a Car

The Average Cost for Door Replacement on a Car

If you find yourself in the unfortunate situation of having to replace a car door, cost becomes a major factor. Hopefully, your insurance (or the other guys) will cover the replacement cost, not counting the deductible. The average cost of replacing a door will vary greatly depending on the model of car. Replacing a Ferrari door will certainly cost a lot more than that of a Hyundai. The other major factors in replacement cost are whom you choose to work on your car and how you acquire the replacement door.

Find It Yourself

    Scouring junkyards is by far the cheapest way to go, but if this proves difficult, get in touch with a local car club. These can be found with a simple Internet search and are a great source for information regarding your specific model. Be sure to select a replacement door compatible with your vehicle. Find a door identical to yours in build and color to make for easy installation. Finding a matching door at a good price can be tedious and take time. A used car door can range from $100 for commonly-found, inexpensive older models to upwards of $500 for luxury and specialty vehicles. Remember that many models doors will be nearly impossible to find on junkyards or second-hand.

Purchase From A Body Shop

    For harder-to-find models, you may have to resort to purchasing a new door from a body shop. Find a few reputable body shops in your area and inquire about their price. Be wary of any offers that seem too good to be true, as they usually are. Occasionally body shops are able to find used doors and often are willing to keep an eye out for one if they know you are looking and have time. If you are in need of a replacement car door, chances are you do not have this time and youll be stuck buying a new one. This will cost you anywhere from $400 for less expensive models to upwards of $1000 for some makes and models.

Get It From The Source

    The safest method for getting exactly the car door you need is to purchase it directly from a dealership or the manufacturer. You can order the precise door you need and can sometimes even save a little by not purchasing an entire car door, but only the specific parts that have been damaged. For example, if the glass is not broken, you dont need to buy a new window. If you do replace the entire door, however, the cost of purchasing one from a dealership or manufacturer will run you at least $500 for the most common inexpensive models, and anywhere upwards of $1000 to $2000 for luxury vehicles.

Fix It Yourself

    If you are comfortable working on your car, undertaking the repairs yourself enables you to save a lot of money. Find the instructions for replacing the door. These can be acquired from dealerships and sometimes your local auto parts store. Manuals can be purchased for as little as $20 to $50, and make up the bulk of your cost besides the replacement parts themselves.

Have Someone Else Do The Work

    The least stressful and time-consuming way to replace your car door is to have someone else do all the work for you. Body shops will find all the necessary parts and install them. Shop around at several many body shops until you get a feel for what the price should be. Prices you get quoted may vary greatly. Be suspicious of unusually low quotes. You get what you pay for. Dealerships have a reputation for being a little more expensive, but are worth looking into as well. Besides the cost of the car door itself, labor costs at reputable businesses run upwards of $50 per hour, sometimes as high as $120 per hour. Count on your car to be in the shop for at least 2 to 3 days after the parts have arrived. Those needing paint work should figure in another day or two, as well as additional fees of around $40 per hour for the paint job.

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Friday, May 9, 2014

How to Set the Timer for Headlamps on a Lexus

The headlamps on your Lexus are programmed to stay on after you have exited your vehicle. This is beneficial if it is dark and you need the light from your headlamps to walk up to your house or into a public place. The default time for the headlamps to remain on is 30 seconds. You can change this value to be longer, or you can adjust it so that your headlamps do not stay on at all when turn off the engine. You will need a special diagnostic tester to perform these steps.

Instructions

    1

    Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "On" position.

    2

    Connect the Lexus diagnostic tester to the DLC3 port on the vehicle. The DLC3 port is located on the lower left side panel and is clearly labeled.

    3

    Turn on the diagnostic tester and select the "Customize" option.

    4

    Select "Verify Connections," press the "Yes" button, and press "Enter."

    5

    Select function "08" which is "Light Control."

    6

    Go to "Light Off Delay" and set it to your desired value. You can either choose 30 seconds, 60 seconds, 90 seconds or immediate off.

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Thursday, May 8, 2014

The Reasons for Replacing the Inner Tie Rods

A key element of handling a vehicles movement is its steering mechanism, which includes the tie rods. Through the years, steering has become easier to maneuver, but the mechanism within the car has evolved into many small, intricate parts.

Function

    The inner tie rods of a steering system, or rack-and-pinion steering system, move the force of the steering wheel movement to the wheels to turn the vehicle. If they become faulty, steering can become difficult.

Significance

    It is apparent when the inner tie rods need replacement by the feel of the steering wheel. If the steering meanders, feels unsteady, or if the tread on the front tires is wearing down unevenly, this could indicate worn-out inner tie rods.

Considerations

    Be aware that noise coming from the rack-and-pinion system doesnt necessarily mean that it is the inner tie rods causing it. Inspect the system thoroughly to verify if this is the case, since many noise problems come from the entire movement of the rack assembly itself.

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Monday, May 5, 2014

Instructions for Removing the Intake Manifold on a 6 9 Ford

The intake manifold for an delivers fuel and air to the engine in a precise ratio. International Harvester made an eight-cylinder 6.9-liter diesel engine from 1982 until 1987. This engine commonly appears in Ford F series trucks during this period, especially F-250 and F-350 models. The removal of the intake manifold in a Ford truck with a 6.9-liter engine requires you to remove the injection pump and other components to access the intake manifold.

Instructions

    1

    Remove the cables from the negative terminals of both batteries with a socket wrench. Disconnect the air cleaner from the intake manifold. Plug the air intake of the intake manifold with clean shop rags to keep debris out of the engine.

    2

    Detach the electrical connectors from the injection pump. Remove the bracket for the fast idle solenoid with a socket wrench, so you can access the mounting bolts for the injector pump. Disconnect the cables for the cruise control and accelerator from the throttle lever, if your vehicle is so equipped. Remove the bracket for the accelerator cable and push it out of the way.

    3

    Remove the fuel lines, in the elbow inlet and fitting adapter from the injection pump with a socket wrench. Rotate the injection pump out of the way, and disconnect the fuel lines from the injection nozzles. Cap all fuel lines and injection pump fittings with fuel system protective cap set T83T-9395-A to keep debris out of the fuel system.

    4

    Disconnect the retaining nuts from the the injection pump with tool T83T-9000-B. Detach the injection pump from its adapter, and remove the injection pump from the engine.

    5

    Disconnect the fuel return lines from the rear injection nozzles on the number seven and number eight cylinders. Detach the fuel return line on the fuel tank, and disconnect the electrical wiring harness from the engine. Remove the ground cables for the engine wiring harness from the left cylinder head.

    6

    Remove any additional components necessary to access the intake manifold on your vehicle. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the intake manifold with a socket wrench, and remove the intake manifold from the cylinder heads.

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Tuesday, April 29, 2014

Heater Core Installation for a 1991 Eagle Premier

A heater core in a vehicle is a radiator which contains hot coolant from the engine. The coolant passes through the heater core when the heater is turned on, and releases heat inside the vehicle. The heater core in a 1991 Eagle Premier is part of the heating and air conditioning unit. This requires you to remove the heating and air conditioning unit prior to installing the heater core.

Instructions

    1

    Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Drain the coolant from the radiator, and store it for later use.

    2

    Discharge the rigerant in the air conditioning system with an approved rigerant recycling machine. This step requires a licensed mechanic.

    3

    Remove the lower trim cover of the instrument panel with a socket wrench, and disconnect the support rod for the instrument panel. Remove the screw that attaches the electrical wiring harness for the steering column to the instrument panel bulkhead.

    4

    Disconnect the automatic shift cable from the drive lever with a pair of pliers. Pull the sleeve on the steering column down to expose the universal joint. Mark the steering column shaft and the intermediate shaft so you can align the two shafts later. Remove the mounting bolt connecting the two shafts.

    5

    Disconnect the mounting bolts on the steering column with a socket wrench, and remove the steering column from the instrument panel. Separate the steering column shaft and intermediate shaft, and remove them from the vehicle. Detach the defroster grille from the the instrument panel.

    6

    Remove the screws that attach the parking brake handle with a socket wrench, and lower the handle. Detach the ashtray and electrical connector for the cigarette lighter. Disconnect the mounting bolts that attach the instrument panel to the floor. Detach the interior temperature sensor and duct extension from the floor of the vehicle.

    7

    Detach the hoses from the heater core, and unplug the electrical connector from the coolant level switch. Disconnect the reservoir for the coolant from the heater unit. Detach the electrical connector for the blower motor, and remove the vacuum lines from the heater unit. Detach the rigerant lines from the dash panel.

    8

    Remove the retaining nuts from the heater unit with a socket wrench, and pull the heater unit toward the rear of the vehicle to remove it. Release the tabs on the heater unit housing, and remove the heater core. Push the new heater core into the housing so that the tabs snap into place. Ensure that the gaskets on the heater housing form a tight seal.

    9

    Perform steps three through seven in reverse order to install the heater unit into the vehicle. Align the steering column shaft and the intermediate shaft according to the marks you made in step four. Tighten the bolts that fasten the steering column to the instrument panel to 35 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

    10

    Recharge the air conditioning system with rigerant. This step requires a qualified mechanic.

    11

    Attach the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Refill the radiator with coolant, and check for any coolant leaks.

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How to Assemble the Headlights for a Ford

How to Assemble the Headlights for a Ford

Ford vehicles feature two types of headlights: large one-piece lamps, which are called sealed-beam headlamps; and composite headlights, which have bulbs that plug into the glass housing from the rear of the headlight. Broken sealed-beam headlights cannot be repaired. Composite headlights, however, can be replaced in just a few minutes.

Instructions

    1

    Determine the type of headlight: a two-light system, which will have low and high beams in one unit; or a four-light part system, which has separate low and high beam lights. Sealed-beam headlights can be either square or round.

    2

    Remove the headlight housing trim by unscrewing the screws holding it in place. Remove the retaining ring by unscrewing the retaining screws while holding the back of the lamp in place. Lower it from the frame and unplug it from the back (three prongs on an two-light system; two prongs on a four-light system). Do not remove the two aiming screws, one on the top or bottom of the housing unit and another on the side. Both are spring-loaded and are not holding the retaining ring in place.

    3

    Clean the trim, retaining ring and socket that the new lamp will sit in. Make certain there is no corrosion and the wires on the plug are in good condition.

    4

    Plug in the new headlight and push the light into the socket. Make certain the writing on the headlight is at the top when you are pushing the light into the socket, which has grooves to navigate the lamp into place, guiding bumps on top of the lamp into the socket.

    5

    Screw the retaining screws into place, while holding the new headlight in place. Screw the trim back into place.

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Sunday, April 6, 2014

How to Lower Shocks for Harleys

How to Lower Shocks for Harleys

The advantage of lower shocks is that shorter riders feet can more easily touch the ground. Traditional, externally mounted shock absorbers on any Harley should not be disassembled and must be replaced as an assembly. Sportster shocks are usually 13.5 inches long. Replacement shocks are available in 11.5, 12, 12.5 and 13 inch lengths. This is how to swap them out. The procedure is the essentially the same for all Sportsters, all Dynas and all touring models.

Instructions

    1

    Raise the Harley on a motorcycle jack until the rear tire is off the ground. This aids access to the inside of the rear fender. Make sure the motorcycle is stable.

    2

    Remove both saddlebags. Hold the nut inside the fender with a box wrench and turn the bolt head inside your saddlebag with a socket wrench if you have bolt on bags.

    3

    Remove both bolts that secure both saddlebags. Save the nuts, bolts and washers from both bags for reuse.

    4

    Remove the Allen bolt and washer on the fender tab at the back of your seat if you have throw-over bags. Remove the seat then remove the throw-over bags.

    5

    Lower the motorcycle jack until both tires are on the ground and both shock absorbers are relaxed. Leave the jack sufficiently elevated so the bike is upright and resting on the jack rather than leaning left on the jiffy stand.

    6

    Immobilize the lower shock nut on either of the shock absorbers with a box wrench. Loosen the lower shock mounting bolt with an Allen wrench. Remove the bolt, nut and washer and save for reuse.

    7

    Loosen the upper shock mounting bolt with an Allen wrench and remove upper shock mounting bolt, washer and cover. Save this hardware for reuse.

    8

    Remove the opposite shock absorber using the same procedure.

    9

    Lower the motorcycle jack approximately two inches. Apply thread locker to the lower shock mounting bolt and begin to install the shorter, replacement shock absorber using the same lower bolt, washer and nut.

    10

    Apply thread locker to the upper shock mounting bolt and finish installing the shorter replacement shock absorber using the upper bolt, washer and cover. Repeat the same procedures on the opposite side of the motorcycle.

    11

    Reinstall the saddlebags as needed. Reinstall the seat as needed. Completely lower and remove the motorcycle jack.

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Sunday, March 30, 2014

The Engine Specifications for a Honda D17A2

The Honda Motor Company has been making engines since 1948. The Honda D17A2 was originally produced for 2001 and later models of the Civic EX, and it is highly sought-after by car enthusiasts and tuners.

Engine Specifications

    The Honda D17A2 is a 1,668 cubic centimeter, in-line, four-cylinder engine. The bore cylinder has a diameter of 75 mm and a piston shaft length of 94.4 mm.

Performance Specifications

    The D17A2 is capable of producing 127 horsepower at 6,300 rpm. The torque rating of this engine is 114 foot-pounds at 4,400 rpm. The engines compression ratio is 9.9 to 1.

Other Specifications

    The fuel control system on the Honda D17A2 is a single overhead camshaft that contains four valves per cylinder. The D17A2 also features a variable valve timing and lift electronic control valvetrain system, otherwise known as VTEC. Honda developed the VTEC system to improve the volumetric efficiency of their four-stroke internal combustion engines.

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Friday, March 28, 2014

Alignment Specifications for the 2003 Infiniti FX45

Alignment Specifications for the 2003 Infiniti FX45

Manufactured by Nissan, the Infiniti FX45 is a mid-sized luxury crossover vehicle that was introduced in 2003. As with most vehicles, the FX45 requires a periodic wheel alignment that will help keep the vehicle steering true and help the owner avoid uneven tire wear. Professional technicians follow Nissans factory specifications to perform an alignment on the FX45.

Camber

    The front wheel camber angle on a Infiniti FX45 should have a nominal value of -0.44 degrees with the maximum acceptable value of -0.12 degrees and lowest acceptable value of -1.29 degrees. The rear wheel alignment specifications are within -1.15 to -0.15 degrees, with an ideal angle being -0.45 degrees.

Caster

    The caster angle should be the same both on the right and left sides on the 2003 Infinitis FX45 wheels. The nominal value is -0.44 degrees, with limits set from -1.29 to -0.12 degrees for the front wheels.

Toe

    Total toe angles on the FX45 model must be +0.8 degrees with measuring range of 0.8 degrees. Toe-in specification should be set at 1.6 mm with maximum allowable difference of 1 mm.

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Sunday, March 23, 2014

Instructions for Installation of Euro Clear Fog Lights

Instructions for Installation of Euro Clear Fog Lights

Most newer vehicles, be they cars, trucks or SUVs, come standard with fog lights. These additional headlights are set low in the nose of the vehicle to better illuminate the road directly in front of the vehicle. Fog lights are valuable aides to the improving a drivers vision in foggy, snowy or rainy conditions. Adding euro clear fog lights is a quick and easy repair that personalizes your vehicle and gives it an updated look.

Instructions

    1

    Park your vehicle in a safe work place. Look for a flat and level surface that has adequate light to work by. Turn off the engine and apply the parking brake.

    2

    Wait 30 minutes before beginning work to allow the vehicle to cool. Slide underneath the front end of the vehicle and position yourself near the rear of the drivers side fog light.

    3

    Remove any dust covers or access panels. These can usually be removed by prying them off with a Flathead screwdriver. Once these are removed, locate the wiring harness. The harness will be plugged into the fog light socket. Unplug the harness to access the interior of the fog light assembly.

    4

    Unscrew the mounting bolts. The bolts hold the assembly in the front bumper of the automobile. On most autos, there will be three bolts which can be removed with a regular wrench. Once the bolts are removed, slide out the old fog light assembly.

    5

    Insert the euro clear fog light assembly. Place the new assembly into the same place in the bumper from where the old assembly was removed. Attach the mounting bolts, wiring harness and dust cover as they were on the original assembly.

    6

    Repeat the process for the light on the passengers side.

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Wednesday, March 19, 2014

Recommendations for Shock Absorbers

Shock absorbers are an important element of automotive suspension. They slow or "dampen" the shock effect of bumps and bounces from the road surface. All work on the same principle: they are tubes filled with fluid with a piston. A bump or shock forces the piston against the fluid; a small amount is allowed to seep through minute holes in the piston head. This compression reduces the force of the shock; the piston then returns to its normal position.

Basic Shock Types

    There are three broad types of shock absorber: conventional telescopic, strut or spring seat. Within the conventional type are five varieties: standard, heavy duty, automatic level control, adjustable air and overload. Modern cars tend to have MacPherson struts in front. Older cars and most trucks use conventional shock absorbers, with the variety depending on the use. The specific type of shock absorber will vary with the vehicle and its use.

Conventional Telescopic

    The conventional telescropic is the most common type of shock absorber. Variations come from the type of oil or hydraulic fluid used. Some -- gas shocks -- use nitrogen gas to reduce the bouncy effect of a shock. These are used mostly on smaller cars, although some manufacturers put them on larger models as a way to extend the life of the hydraulic fluid by expanding to make up for a drop in fluid effectiveness. Conventional shocks bolt to the vehicle suspension.

Similarities of Struts and Spring Seat

    MacPherson struts do the same job as conventional shock absorbers, but replace part of the vehicles basic suspension system. These are generally found on the front suspension of newer cars; they are able to better cope with greater loads and forces and thus produce a smoother ride. MacPherson struts use replaceable cartridges but because they are part of the vehicle suspension they are under greater tension and generally require replacement by a professional. Spring seat shocks combine elements of the other styles -- a shock absorber installed within a spring.

Choosing a Shock Absorber

    The choice of a shock absorber will depend on the vehicle and its use. Standard shocks are most common -- heavy duty variations are used on heavier vehicles. Automatic level styles can be adjusted to adapt to changing loads. Adjujstable air shocks can be inflated to meet varying conditions. Overload shocks incorporate a spring around the piston for added strength; these differ from spring seat shocks in that the spring is an integral part of the shock.

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Monday, March 17, 2014

How to Find a Grille a Bumper for a 2004 Dodge Stratus

If you have gotten into an accident or you are repairing a 2004 Dodge Stratus that simply needs a new grille and bumper, you can visit any official Dodge retailer to order replacement parts. However, if you want to try to save some money on these parts, you can order them online instead. Dodges official website does not sell these items online, however there are a number of third parties that sell grilles, bumpers and other parts for a minimal cost.

Instructions

    1

    Visit a website that sells Dodge parts.

    2

    Click "Stratus."

    3

    Select "2004" next to year.

    4

    Select "Stratus Coupe" or "Stratus Sedan" depending on the model you own.

    5

    Type "Bumper" in the search box and click "Search." A list of bumper options will appear.

    6

    Type "Grille" into the "Search" box to see grille results.

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Tuesday, March 11, 2014

How to Heat a Steel Pipe for Bending

How to Heat a Steel Pipe for Bending

To bend steel pipe, you need to apply heat evenly to the entire area that you need to bend. The main problem with bending pipe without a tubing bender is kinking the pipe. If the pipe kinks, it will lose its structural integrity. The kink will restrict the flow of water if it is a water pipe; if it is steel pipe being used as electrical conduit, you will have a problem fishing the wires past the kink. To avoid kinking the steel pipe, you must support the walls of the pipe while you perform the bend.

Instructions

    1

    Cover one end of the steel pipe with two layers of duct tape. Secure the loose ends of the duct tape with more tape.

    2

    Stand the pipe on end, with the taped end resting on the floor, and fill the first 12 inches of the steel pipe with damp sand.

    3

    Pack the damp sand with the tamping rod and add more sand to the steel pipe. Continue the process of filling and packing the sand in the steel pipe until the entire length of pipe is filled with damp sand.

    4

    Cover the open end of the steel pipe with duct tape to contain the sand within the steel pipe.

    5

    Secure the sand-filled steel pipe in the vise, with the area of the steel pipe you need to bend extending out past the end of the vise.

    6

    Light the oxy-acetylene torch and set the torch to burn a neutral flame. A neutral flame will have a blue exterior flame with a short bright blue interior flame that does not emit any black soot.

    7

    Evenly heat the entire area that you need to bend by running the neutral flame of the oxy-acetylene torch around the entire circumference of the steel pipe until it emits a low orange glow.

    8

    Apply pressure to the end of the steel pipe and start bending the steel pipe; keep applying heat to the bend area while you are bending the steel pipe.

    9

    Allow the steel pipe to cool and then remove the steel pipe from the vise.

    10

    Remove the duct tape from both ends of the steel pipe and tap one end of the steel pipe on the ground to remove the tamped sand from the steel pipe.

    11

    Use the water hose to run water through the steel pipe to remove any sand that remains in the steel pipe.

    12

    Wipe the pipe dry with a clean rag.

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How Do I Access Engine Codes for an 89 Volvo 240

You can access engine codes for your 1989 Volvo 240 from your home garage using an OBD I scanner. This hand-held computerized tool can be purchased from any auto parts store. The On-Board Diagnostics computer receives and stores error codes sent to it from the engine. Sensors in the engine detect malfunctions and servicing needs of the Volvo and send the error codes to the computer. The computer, in turn, illuminates the "Service Engine Soon" or "Check Engine" lights on your instrument panel. The codes can be read using an OBD I scanner. After you read the codes, this same tool can be used to reset the computer and turn off all warning lights after repairs or servicing has been accomplished.

Instructions

    1

    Plug the OBD I scanner into the large open port on the drivers side dashboard underneath the steering column.

    2

    Put the key into the ignition, and turn it to the "ACC" position, but dont crank the engine. Wait while the scanner turns on. Some scan tools have an on/off switch that needs to be turned on.

    3

    Select the "Read Codes" command from the scanners menu. Wait for the scanner to interface with the OBD computer. Write the engine codes it displays on a piece of paper.

    4

    Unplug the scanner.

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Thursday, March 6, 2014

Dual Exhaust Vs Single for Trucks

Dual Exhaust Vs. Single for Trucks

Properly implemented, either single or dual exhaust systems can perform well on most any truck. The question largely comes down to matter of perence in sound, appearance and budget.

Horsepower

    Horsepower is a matter of exhaust flow, and it matters little whether that flow issues through one big pipe or two smaller ones.

Sound

    Because dual pipes split the flow, it is easier to hear the sound of individual cylinders firing. Many people per some sort of dual exhaust for their more analog exhaust note.

Budget

    Most people who replace a trucks exhaust system will opt not to use a true dual exhaust system, because often the entire system must replaced, from exhaust manifold to tailpipe.

Velocity and Torque

    If there is one good argument for dual pipes, it is that using two smaller pipes will cause an increase in exhaust velocity, which may help boost torque for towing.

Turbodiesels

    Almost all turbo-diesel trucks work best with a single large exhaust pipe, since the turbo only has one large exhaust outlet anyway.

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Wednesday, February 26, 2014

Instructions for Reflooring a Horse Trailer

Instructions for Reflooring a Horse Trailer

Horse trailer flooring takes a lot of abuse. It supports animals of several thousand pounds, while the trailer itself is bounced and pounded by the roadway, sometimes at speeds of 60 or 70 miles per hour. Replacing the flooring is done with the same techniques you would use to replace the flooring in any trailer. Use treated lumber for the boards to add life to your trailers floor. If your trailer does not have a rubber mat, adding one can add years to the life of your trailer floor and save wear and tear on the horse.

Instructions

    1

    Remove the rubber mat from your floor. These are heavy duty rubber, without fasteners to allow for thorough cleaning. Lift the mats and remove them from the trailer. Lift the trailer onto jack stands, or concrete blocks. Using a standard auto jack to lift one end, slip the jack stands under, lift the other end and slip stands under to provide better access to the bolts underneath.

    2

    Cut the bolts, just above the nut, with a reciprocating saw. Tap the bolts up through the floor and pull them out on top with a claw hammer. Remove the floor boards from the trailer, one at a time, laying them out in the same order you removed them, to serve as a template for the new boards.

    3

    Cut one piece of 2 inch-thick treated lumber for each board. Use boards the same width and cut to the same length as the original using a circular saw. Typical floor boards range from 2-by-6 to 2-by-10, but are usually standard sizes. Drill the bolt holes through each board, using the original board as a template. Use a bit the same thickness as your new bolts.

    4

    Fit each board into place, working it under any edge flanges to get a smooth fit. Set the board in with its front end tipped up, slide the back end under the edge of the rear door sill and tap it down with a hammer until it drops into place. Tap a bolt down through each hole in the floor boards, through the frame of the trailer. Fit every board and bolt before adding nuts and washers underneath.

    5

    Fit a washer and nut over the end of each bolt, turning it tight by hand. Fit all washers and bolts, then tighten all nuts with an impact driver. Remove the trailer from the jack stands and replace the rubber mats over the new floor boards.

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Thursday, February 13, 2014

The Exhaust Is Leaking at the Motor for My 2001 GMC Sierra 2500 6 0L

Leaking exhaust at the engine on the 6.0-Liter GMC engine means the exhaust manifold gasket is faulty and there no longer is a good seal between the exhaust manifold and the cylinder head. To fix this leak, it is necessary to remove the exhaust manifold and replace the gasket. The exhaust manifold is secured to the cylinder head with six bolts.

Instructions

Removal

    1

    Lift the vehicle hood. Ensure the exhaust leak is coming from the mating surface between the cylinder head and the exhaust manifold, not the EGR valve or where the manifold meets the down pipe. Mark each spark plug wire with the paint marker to identify which wire belongs on what spark plug.

    2

    Turn each spark plug boot about a half turn and pull it straight off the spark plug. Do not remove any plug wires from their respective coils.

    3

    Remove each exhaust manifold mounting bolt with the proper size socket and ratchet. Gently pull the manifold away from the cylinder head a bit and remove the faulty gasket from the cylinder head.

Installation

    4

    Hold the new exhaust gasket to the exhaust manifold. Press the manifold and gasket to the cylinder head. Hand-tighten each exhaust manifold bolt.

    5

    Tighten the exhaust manifold bolts to 10 foot-pounds of torque with the proper size socket and torque wrench. First torque the inside bolts, then the two outside bolts. Once all of the bolts are torqued to 10 foot-pounds, repeat the same process to 15 foot-pounds of torque with the socket and torque wrench.

    6

    Install each spark plug wire by pushing it onto the proper spark plug. Pay attention to the marks previously made so the firing order is not disturbed. Shut the vehicle hood. Check the exhaust manifold bolt torque after the engine is warmed and cooled twice to ensure they maintain 15 foot-pounds of torque.

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Saturday, February 8, 2014

How to Get a New Key for a 99 Ford Expedition

The 1999 Ford Expedition comes standard with a passive anti-theft system Ford calls "PATS," that incorporates a computer chip-equipped key to cut down on vehicle theft. Ford codes the chip inside the key with a digital signal unique to the particular Expedition. A transponder inside the dashboard reads and recognizes this signal as soon as you insert the key into the ignition. If the chipped key is not present, the Expeditions ignition system is disabled. In the event you lose or damage your key, youll need to have a Ford dealership replace it and program the replacement key to your Expedition.

Instructions

    1

    Go to your Ford dealers parts department with your 1999 Expeditions VIN number, registration or title and your state issued ID.

    2

    Present your VIN number to the parts counterperson and request a new key for your 1999 Ford Expedition. The Parts Manager will need to verify you own the Expedition by matching your title or registration with your state issued ID (if the Parts Manager is not available, ask to see the Service Manager or Parts and Service Director). This is a safety measure incorporated by Ford Motor Company in 2007 to prevent thieves from requesting keys to your Ford vehicle.

    3

    Go to the service department with your new key and request to have the key programmed to your Expedition. You will have to have your Expedition present, so if you dont have any keys for it, youll need to tow it to the dealership.

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Friday, February 7, 2014

Uses for Cerium Oxide

Uses for Cerium Oxide

Cerium oxide is an oxide of cerium, which is a rare earth metal, encountered on the periodic table. Cerium oxide is usually an off-white powder. It is also often called ceric oxide. The most common use of cerium oxide is as a glass and crystal abrasive, but several other industries also apply the compound in different ways.

Abrasive for Polishing Jewels

    The most common use of cerium oxide is as an abrasive for fine polishing. It is frequently used to polish precious and semiprecious stones to a fine finish, and also as an abrasive agent in repairing scratches in these stones.

Glass Industry

    Cerium oxide is also used as a fine abrasive in the polishing and grinding of precision lenses. Opticians often use it for this purpose. However, it is also useful in polishing all kinds of precision glasswork such as mirrors and machine lenses. Another use that the compound commonly sees is as a light filtration coating on lenses and as a UV protective coating on certain kinds of glass. This is due to its abilities as an excellent lector of ultraviolet light.

Ceramics

    Cerium oxide is a key ingredient in the production of high quality ceramics of all kinds. It is used to build semiconductors, dental ceramics and even in high precision applications such as ceramic components for the aerospace industry and fuel cell manufacture. Cerium oxides main utility in the ceramics industry comes from the fact that it improves stability, wear-resistance and temperature-resistance when used in the manufacturing process of oxide ceramics.

Catalyst

    Catalytic converters in cars often contain cerium oxide as a much cheaper alternative to platinum. This is because cerium is very effective at converting poisonous carbon monoxide gas into relatively harmless carbon dioxide. It also helps reduce the amount of nitric oxide that is emitted with a cars exhaust.

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