So Fix it

Hot engine coolant goes through the tube of your heater core as part of a process that results in bringing heat to your vehicle. When this part needs to be removed, information on what to do before, during and after removal can be helpful.

Before Removal

On the passenger side of an automobile under the dash is a box that the heater core is in. You should notice the steel clamps that are screwed in to secure the heater core. You can take off the clamps and screws to free the core.

During Removal

Because water will be present in your heater core as you remove it, you should provide some form of cover for your vehicles carpet. You should be caul when taking out the heater core, as it may take a little elbow grease to pull it loose.

After Removal

After you have taken the heater core out, you can replace it with a new one and check the results. Once everything is installed, filling the system with water will allow you to perform a leak check. The heat should be turned up full blast while checking for signs of leaks.

The intake manifold for an delivers fuel and air to the engine in a precise ratio. International Harvester made an eight-cylinder 6.9-liter diesel engine from 1982 until 1987. This engine commonly appears in Ford F series trucks during this period, especially F-250 and F-350 models. The removal of the intake manifold in a Ford truck with a 6.9-liter engine requires you to remove the injection pump and other components to access the intake manifold.

Instructions

1

Remove the cables from the negative terminals of both batteries with a socket wrench. Disconnect the air cleaner from the intake manifold. Plug the air intake of the intake manifold with clean shop rags to keep debris out of the engine.

2

Detach the electrical connectors from the injection pump. Remove the bracket for the fast idle solenoid with a socket wrench, so you can access the mounting bolts for the injector pump. Disconnect the cables for the cruise control and accelerator from the throttle lever, if your vehicle is so equipped. Remove the bracket for the accelerator cable and push it out of the way.

3

Remove the fuel lines, in the elbow inlet and fitting adapter from the injection pump with a socket wrench. Rotate the injection pump out of the way, and disconnect the fuel lines from the injection nozzles. Cap all fuel lines and injection pump fittings with fuel system protective cap set T83T-9395-A to keep debris out of the fuel system.

4

Disconnect the retaining nuts from the the injection pump with tool T83T-9000-B. Detach the injection pump from its adapter, and remove the injection pump from the engine.

5

Disconnect the fuel return lines from the rear injection nozzles on the number seven and number eight cylinders. Detach the fuel return line on the fuel tank, and disconnect the electrical wiring harness from the engine. Remove the ground cables for the engine wiring harness from the left cylinder head.

6

Remove any additional components necessary to access the intake manifold on your vehicle. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the intake manifold with a socket wrench, and remove the intake manifold from the cylinder heads.

A damper bolt is a small bolt on the crank assembly of a car which helps facilitate rotating of the crank assembly and ensures your car is operating properly. The damper bolts hold the damper in place, with the damper attached to the motor of a car. Even if you installed your damper bolts tightly and turned them down all the way, they may still vibrate. It is important to fix the vibrating on the bolts to ensure your car is safe to drive.

Instructions

1

Pop the hood of your car and locate the serpentine belt, a single, continuous belt used to drive various devices in the car. Attach a 13mm wrench to the tensioner pulley on the inside of the belt and rotate it downwards to pull off the belt.

2

Pull the tensioner pulley out away from the car and set it aside so you can put it back on later once you have properly tightened the damper down in place. Locate the damper underneath where the tensioner pulley was and find the three bolts holding it in place.

3

Inspect all of the bolts and determine which ones are loose. Match up the size of the bolts with a wrench. The bolts will likely be 13mm so use the same wrench you used to remove the tensioner pulley and tighten down the damper bolts.

4

Slide the wrench over the top of the loose bolt and turn it clockwise to tighten it down in place. Continue turning until the bolt is as tight as you can get it by hand. Repeat the process for all of the other bolts just to verify they have been tightened down enough.

5

Slide the tensioner pulley back in place and tighten it down with the wrench. Turn on the car and test out the damper bolts to verify they are not vibrating while the car is running.

Work on enough engines and youre bound to run into at least one exhaust manifold bolt that would sooner snap than back out of the block. While any monkey with a cheater bar could simply yank and hope for the best, a wise mechanic will have the foresight to know that proper removal now beats drilling the block later.

The Basic Problem

The exhaust manifolds arent just the hottest part of your engine; they and their bolts represent a junction point where several very hot parts of differing composition come into contact with much cooler components. Because metals expand and contract with changes in temperature, according to their molecular composition, the nuts, bolts and studs holding manifold to engine block tend to seize up. Rust -- excess oxidation as a result of constant heat -- is another contributing factor, but heat seizing is usually the primary one.

Pretreating the Bolts

Pretreating the bolts is the simplest way to ease manifold bolt removal, and may be enough if the bolts arent seized too badly. Spray all of the manifold bolts -- those on the cylinder heads and those connecting the manifolds to the exhaust pipes -- with a liberal amount of penetrating oil. Spray along the manifold-to-engine interface and use as much as you need. Respray the manifold bolts two or three more times within an hour and allow them to sit overnight if possible.

Work the Bolt

Attempt to remove each bolt after youve given the penetrating oil time to work. If the bolts will move a bit, work them back and forth while constantly lubricating the bolts threads with oil. If the bolt comes halfway out, turn it so it goes back in. The oil on the higher threads will lubricate the thread holes in the block, easing removal. Apply the appropriate pressure to stuck bolts, but if they wont come out, then its time for a bit of heat.

Heating the Bolt

This is a last-ditch effort short of cutting or snapping the bolt, but its one that often works. Using an oxy-acetylene torch set on medium -- the flame about half yellow and half blue -- heat only the head of the bolt till it just begins to glow red. Have someone nearby hold the torch while you attempt to remove the bolt, in case you have to heat it again. Do not attempt to use penetrating oil on the hot bolt; itll just flash and flame away. Try working the bolt back and forth.

The Last Resort

If the bolt still doesnt come out, youve got two options: you can cut the bolt-head off with a grinder and cutoff wheel, or keep applying pressure till the bolt snaps. Of these, the latter is the more dangerous because the bolt could well shear off flush with the block. At least decapitating the bolt leaves you with the option of repeating the listed steps and trying to remove the shank with a pair of vice grips. If you get this far, try grinding a small flat on one side of the shaft to help the vice grips get purchase.

Prevention

After finally getting the manifold bolts out and removing that stubborn lump of cast iron, you may be tempted to say to yourself: "Well, this is the last time Ill ever have to do that again." Not so fast, there, Speedy. Youd be surprised how quickly manifold gaskets can blow out after installation, and then youll be cursing the thing anew. Even if you think that youll never have to remove these manifolds again, do the car or engines next owner a favor and apply a bit of anti-seize compound to the bolt threads before reinstallation. Anti-seize is cheap insurance, and using it is something for you to feel smug and canny over afterward.