So Fix it

The Ford 5.4l engine first debuted in the newly redesigned 1997 F-150. Upon introduction, the engine was primarily used as a truck engine. It has since debuted as a "performance" engine in the North American and Australian markets.

Power

The 5.4l engine is among Fords most powerful. Early versions were rolled out in Fords pickup truck line. These engines produced between 255 and 260 horsepower. Today, a version used in the Ford Shelby GT 500 produces 550 hp and 510 foot pounds of torque.

Physical Specifications

The 5.4l engine has a bore diameter of 90.2 mm, while featuring a stroke of 105.8 mm. The engine has a 169.1 mm connecting rod. This combination achieves a 1.60:1 rod-to-stroke ratio.

Versatility

The highly versatile engine is available in two-, three- and four-valve per cylinder designs. The four-valve engine can also be super-charged (use of a compressor to provide more air flow) to produce extra power. These supercharged engines have been used to power Fords top-end performers, such as the Shelby GT 500 and Ford GT.

The Ford 5.4-liter engine is a V-8 engine with aluminum cylinder heads. It appears in various Ford vehicles made since 1997, such as the F-Series of pickup trucks. The 5.4-liter engine has a pair of cylinder heads, one on each side of the engine. The head gasket lies between the cylinder head and the engine block, and makes a tight seal between the two components. The procedure for replacing the cylinder head gaskets is generally the same for both gaskets.

Instructions

1

Evacuate the air-conditioning system with the appropriate evacuating equipment. This step requires a mechanic licensed by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA).

2

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to prevent the engine from starting during the head gasket replacement. Remove the covers for the cylinder head, and disconnect the intake manifold from the engine block. Detach the timing chains from their sprockets, and remove both exhaust manifolds from the engine block.

3

Remove the retaining bolts from the heater hose on the engine block with a socket wrench. Release the hose clamp by squeezing it together and sliding it down the hose. Detach the hose from the engine block. Detach any additional cables, electrical connectors and hoses that restrict your access to the cylinder head.

4

Disconnect the mounting bolts from the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Detach the cylinder head from the engine block. Remove the head gasket from the engine block and discard it. Remove any traces of the gasket from the cylinder head and engine block with a gasket scraper.

5

Turn the crankshaft clockwise by hand so that the key way on the crankshaft is in the 12 oclock position. Place the new gasket for the cylinder head over the dowel pins on the engine block. Mount the cylinder head over the dowel pins, so that the head is on top of the gasket.

6

Install new mounting bolts to the cylinder head by hand. Tighten the bolts to 30 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Tighten the mounting bolts for the cylinder head an additional 85 to 95 degrees on the second pass. Tighten the mounting bolts an additional 85 to 95 degrees on the third pass.

7

Connect the heater hose to the cylinder head, and fasten its retaining bolts with a socket wrench. Slide the hose clamp in place to secure the hose. Attach the exhaust manifolds to the engine block, and mount the timing chains to their sprockets. Connect the intake manifold to the engine block.

8

Attach the covers for the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Connect all additional electrical connectors, cables and hoses you removed to obtain access to the cylinder head.

9

Recharge the air-conditioning system with the appropriate equipment. This step requires a mechanic licensed by the EPA.

10

Fill the engine oil and coolant to their proper levels. Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Start the engine and check for fluid leaks.

Having electrically powered windows on your Ford Taurus is a great convenience, but in the event that the power windows fail to function correctly, it can be an equally irritating inconvenience. The problem may be a simple circuit issue, a relay switch, a blown or faulty fuse or a regulator, among other possibilities. It is important that, before buying any new components, you do some troubleshooting to determine the exact reason for the fault.

Instructions

1

Check the fuses first by locating the fuse panel. On the Ford Taurus, you will note that there is a fuse box under the hood as well as another one under the driver-side foot well. The fuses for the electric power windows are on the underside of the foot well and near the steering column.

2

Unclip the panel and reveal the fuses. Take out the appropriate fuses that correspond to the power windows and check their condition. Good fuses will be clean and silver with a good connection to the circuit.

3

Assess the condition of the electrical switches. If all four windows are working intermittently but not fully operational for the remainder of the time, the problem could lie in the relay switch. If one window is having trouble but the other three are all working correctly, it could be the motor for that particular window. Usually the drivers window is the first to fail because it gets far more use than the others.

4

Remove the door panel by unclipping the plastic grommets and the screws around the door. One small screw will be located just above the door latch on the inside of the panel. Pop the panel off and locate the screw inside the door pull.

5

Unclip the switch cover and dislocate the relay plugs from the connectors inside the door panel. You will note that they are bundled up inside the metal door skin. Check the plug connections and replace them. If the windows still do not work, you may need to replace the motor for the window. The motor is attached to the bottom of an "X" shaped frame inside the door skin and is a small, silver and black barrel in the lower center of the frame. These are hard to remove, so you may need to take your car to a mechanic to have the motor replaced.

The intake manifold for an delivers fuel and air to the engine in a precise ratio. International Harvester made an eight-cylinder 6.9-liter diesel engine from 1982 until 1987. This engine commonly appears in Ford F series trucks during this period, especially F-250 and F-350 models. The removal of the intake manifold in a Ford truck with a 6.9-liter engine requires you to remove the injection pump and other components to access the intake manifold.

Instructions

1

Remove the cables from the negative terminals of both batteries with a socket wrench. Disconnect the air cleaner from the intake manifold. Plug the air intake of the intake manifold with clean shop rags to keep debris out of the engine.

2

Detach the electrical connectors from the injection pump. Remove the bracket for the fast idle solenoid with a socket wrench, so you can access the mounting bolts for the injector pump. Disconnect the cables for the cruise control and accelerator from the throttle lever, if your vehicle is so equipped. Remove the bracket for the accelerator cable and push it out of the way.

3

Remove the fuel lines, in the elbow inlet and fitting adapter from the injection pump with a socket wrench. Rotate the injection pump out of the way, and disconnect the fuel lines from the injection nozzles. Cap all fuel lines and injection pump fittings with fuel system protective cap set T83T-9395-A to keep debris out of the fuel system.

4

Disconnect the retaining nuts from the the injection pump with tool T83T-9000-B. Detach the injection pump from its adapter, and remove the injection pump from the engine.

5

Disconnect the fuel return lines from the rear injection nozzles on the number seven and number eight cylinders. Detach the fuel return line on the fuel tank, and disconnect the electrical wiring harness from the engine. Remove the ground cables for the engine wiring harness from the left cylinder head.

6

Remove any additional components necessary to access the intake manifold on your vehicle. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the intake manifold with a socket wrench, and remove the intake manifold from the cylinder heads.

You can disable the seat belt alarms in a Ford F-250 at home, saving yourself time and money. The F-250 comes standard with the Belt-Minder system. This illuminates a seat belt light on the instrument panel and sounds a bell when the vehicle is started. This system is to remind you to fasten seat belts, and the alarm stops after belts are fastened. However, some people may find it annoying and want to disable it. Remember that if you do disable the system, it still is the law in most states to fasten your seat belt before driving.

Instructions

1

Put the key into the ignition. Turn it to the "run" position, taking care to not start the engine. The seat belt alarm will chime after 60 seconds, and the seat belt light will illuminate on the instrument panel.

2

Fasten and unfasten the drivers side safety belt nine times in 50 seconds after the seat belt light shuts off. Notice that the SRS light becomes illuminated on the instrument panel.

3

Fasten and unfasten the drivers seat belt once within 10 seconds of the SRS light turning on. The light will flash 12 times within 3 seconds to warn you that the alarm is disabled. Repeat for the passengers seat.

Ford vehicles feature two types of headlights: large one-piece lamps, which are called sealed-beam headlamps; and composite headlights, which have bulbs that plug into the glass housing from the rear of the headlight. Broken sealed-beam headlights cannot be repaired. Composite headlights, however, can be replaced in just a few minutes.

Instructions

1

Determine the type of headlight: a two-light system, which will have low and high beams in one unit; or a four-light part system, which has separate low and high beam lights. Sealed-beam headlights can be either square or round.

2

Remove the headlight housing trim by unscrewing the screws holding it in place. Remove the retaining ring by unscrewing the retaining screws while holding the back of the lamp in place. Lower it from the frame and unplug it from the back (three prongs on an two-light system; two prongs on a four-light system). Do not remove the two aiming screws, one on the top or bottom of the housing unit and another on the side. Both are spring-loaded and are not holding the retaining ring in place.

3

Clean the trim, retaining ring and socket that the new lamp will sit in. Make certain there is no corrosion and the wires on the plug are in good condition.

4

Plug in the new headlight and push the light into the socket. Make certain the writing on the headlight is at the top when you are pushing the light into the socket, which has grooves to navigate the lamp into place, guiding bumps on top of the lamp into the socket.

5

Screw the retaining screws into place, while holding the new headlight in place. Screw the trim back into place.

The fuel pump to your 1993 Ford Explorer is designed to pressurize fuel that then travels through the fuel injectors and into the engine. A faulty fuel pump may be responsible for problems related to engine stalling and no-start conditions. Replacing the fuel pump is a procedure that can be done at home if you know how to remove the fuel tank and the fuel pumps fuel feed line and return lines, which are separate procedures that require separate tools. Other than acquiring the replacement parts, there are no special tools needed to perform this task on your own.

Instructions

Removing the Fuel Pump

1

Relieve the fuel pressure system by disconnecting the electrical connector from the inertia shut-off switch, located on the passenger-side floor pan below the heater, and run the Explorer for several seconds until it stops.

2

Siphon the fuel tank until it is empty with a siphoning kit.

3

Remove the negative cable from the battery.

4

Jack the Explorer and support it, using jack stands.

5

Remove the fuel tank. This is a separate procedure.

6

Remove the fuel feed line and the return lines from the fuel pump module. This is a separate procedure.

7

Caully knock loose the fuel-pump-module lock ring counterclockwise, using a brass punch and hammer.

8

Pull out the fuel pump from the fuel tank. Tilt the pump as you are doing this to prevent the fuel level float and sending unit from breaking off in the fuel tank.

9

Replace the O-ring seal on the tank if it is damaged.

10

Separate the electrical connector from the fuel pump. Use a small wrench to loosen the fuel hose lower clamp.

11

Separate the C-clip from the bottom of the fuel pump to remove the pump strainer using a flat-head screwdriver. If the strainer appears too contaminated to be cleaned with solvent, replace it.

Installing the New Fuel Pump

12

Wipe clean the fuel pump mounting area with a rag. Use thick grease for the new O-ring seal and place it around the opening on the fuel tank.

13

Attach the strainer to the new fuel pump and clip on the C-clip.

14

Install the new fuel pump to the fuel pump assembly by connecting the electrical connector to the fuel pump and tightening the clamp with a flat-head screwdriver.

15

Insert the fuel pump assembly into the fuel tank. Be caul not to damage the fuel level float and sending unit when installing the assembly.

16

Tighten the lock ring clockwise until the locking cams are underneath the retaining tangs. The new O-ring seal may make it difficult for it to lock, so you might have to push down while turning the lock ring.

17

Follow steps 6 to 3 of Section 1 in reverse order. Add gas to your Explorer. Follow Step 1 of Section 1 in reverse order to finish.

A 1987 Ford Truck relies on two things to start: the battery and fuel in the gas tank. If you are having problems getting your Ford truck to start, you can troubleshoot these two issues and make sure that everything is working properly. If you have a dead battery, you might need to replace it. However, if the battery is just low on a charge, you can jump start the car and allow the battery to charge up.

Instructions

1

Open the hood to gain access to the battery and the battery terminals.

2

Loosen the battery terminals from the battery and clean any corrosion off of them with a wire brush and soda. The sodas carbonation will eat away at the corrosion and allow you to scrub it off with the brush.

3

Reconnect the battery terminals to the battery and try to start your truck.

4

Jump start the 1987 Ford truck with jumper cables and a friends car. Allow the truck to run for about five minutes and then cut it off.

5

Try to restart the truck. If the truck will not restart, replace your battery.

6

Check your fuel level. Add 1 gal. of gas to your truck and then try to restart it. If the truck starts up, replace the gas gauge.

You must learn an engines firing order---the order in which the spark plugs ignite for engine operation---when dealing with any sort of repair dealing with its cylinders. The Ford 302 engine has its own particular firing order.

Ford 302 Firing Order

The Ford 302 has the firing order 1, 5, 4, 2, 6, 3, 7, 8. The cylinders sit on the engine block in a specific order. The left side (your left, while looking at the engine from the front) has cylinders 1, 2, 3 and 4, from front to back. The right side has cylinders 5, 6, 7,and 8 starting from front to back as well. The distributor rotation occurs counterclockwise.

Significance of Firing Order

Firing order determines the sequence in which the cylinders in your vehicles engine receive power. An engines firing order can attribute to minimizing vibration, which affects the overall life of the engine.

Spark Plug Wires

When working on an engine, keep the relationship between the firing order and spark plug wires. The spark plug wires connect the spark plugs to the engine, and you must change them in accordance with the engines firing order.

You can remove the grille from the front of your 2003 Ford F150 at home using a few simple tools that can be purchased from any hardware store. You may have to remove a grille because of accident damage or you may wish to replace it with an after-market grille. In either case, its an easy job requiring only a few minutes of your time. Besides being visually pleasing, the grilles purpose is to protect the radiator.

Instructions

1

Pop up the hood and find the bolts that attach the upper radiator fan cover to the upper part of the grille. Use a socket and ratchet to remove these bolts.

2

Remove the cover from the upper grille using your hands.

3

Find the two plastic tabs attaching the drivers side of the grille to the fender in front. Push the tabs in toward the fender and pull on the grille from the front of the vehicle to dislocate it from the fender. Do the same thing on the passenger side of the grille.

The Ford Focus, which was first produced in 1999, is a compact car available as a hatchback, sedan or wagon. There are many instances when raising your Focus off the ground with a jack may be necessary, such as to change a flat tire, replace brake pads or change the motor oil. Before lifting the vehicle, it is important to understand how to properly use the jack and where to place it as incorrectly using a jack could result in serious injury or death.

Instructions

1

Move the vehicle to a level, paved surface as raising the vehicle on an incline could cause the vehicles wheels to roll and fall off of the jack.

2

Shift the vehicle into "Park" and engage the parking brake. If you have an automatic transmission, shift the vehicle into "Reverse" and engage the parking brake.

3

Place wheel chocks behind or in front of the two wheels on the opposite side of the end of the vehicle that you will be raising. The wheel chocks will prevent the wheels from moving while the vehicle is in the air.

4

Locate the jack points underneath the Focus on both sides of the vehicle. The Focus has four jack points, two located approximately 8 inches in front of the rear wheel wells and two located approximately 6 inches behind the rear wheel wells. The jack points can be easily identified as they are double seam-welded sections and often have notches removed from the bottom.

5

Place the floor jack below the sub-frame and raise it to lift thevehicle off of the ground. The jack included with the Focus must be turned clockwise with a special tool that resembles a thick, straightened wire hanger. This tool will be located in the trunk, along with the jack and spare tire. To use the tool, insert the hooked end of the tool into the fitted hole on the side of the jack.

6

Position a jack stand beneath the jack point closest to the jack then lower the vehicle onto the jack stand by turning the jack tool counterclockwise. Repeat this process for the other side of the vehicle to raise the vehicle off the ground prior to repair or maintenance.

The 1999 Ford Expedition comes standard with a passive anti-theft system Ford calls "PATS," that incorporates a computer chip-equipped key to cut down on vehicle theft. Ford codes the chip inside the key with a digital signal unique to the particular Expedition. A transponder inside the dashboard reads and recognizes this signal as soon as you insert the key into the ignition. If the chipped key is not present, the Expeditions ignition system is disabled. In the event you lose or damage your key, youll need to have a Ford dealership replace it and program the replacement key to your Expedition.

Instructions

1

Go to your Ford dealers parts department with your 1999 Expeditions VIN number, registration or title and your state issued ID.

2

Present your VIN number to the parts counterperson and request a new key for your 1999 Ford Expedition. The Parts Manager will need to verify you own the Expedition by matching your title or registration with your state issued ID (if the Parts Manager is not available, ask to see the Service Manager or Parts and Service Director). This is a safety measure incorporated by Ford Motor Company in 2007 to prevent thieves from requesting keys to your Ford vehicle.

3

Go to the service department with your new key and request to have the key programmed to your Expedition. You will have to have your Expedition present, so if you dont have any keys for it, youll need to tow it to the dealership.

Ford Motor Co., started by Henry Ford in 1903, is based in Dearborn, Michigan. Ford makes trucks, standard cars and sports utility vehicles (SUVs). Air conditioning in cars has been around since the 1940s, but it took a while for it to catch on. The original air conditioners used R-12 rigerant, but R-134a replaced it in 1995. R-134a is more environmentally friendly. If the air conditioning goes out on your vehicle, you can purchase the tools needed to help you remove and repair your AC.

Ford Spring Lock

The Ford Spring Lock Coupling Tool Set is a set of four tools that allow you to separate the spring lock air conditioning rigerant pressure lines. The rigerant pressure lines are between the fan coil unit and the condensing unit in the air conditioning. This toolset is for Ford and Chrysler vehicles, and the manufacturer part number is MTC-9300. The set includes the MTC-93098, which is 3/8 inches in size, and it is red. The MTC-93100 is 5/8 inches in size and is black, and the MTC-93099 is inch in size and blue. The MTC-93101 is inches and is beige. These tools are only meant for separating the air conditioning rigerant pressure lines from the spring lock. They hold the two pieces apart so that you can access and work on the air conditioning. The size ers to the mechanism that each tool fits. All of these tools are spring-loaded, and the set costs between $28.22 and $34.20 in 2010.

KD Tools KDS3290

The KD Tools KDS3290 Fuel Line and Air Conditioning Disconnect Tool. The tool has four sides, and it can release different sized mechanisms, including inch, inch, 3/8 inch and 5/8 inch. This tool allows you to manipulate the spring lock couplings on most Ford vehicles. To use it, turn off the engine and release the system pressure before you start disconnecting the coupling. This is a metal tool that crosses in the middle and is connected with a bolt. The ends have curved cut-outs on each side. The manufacturer part number is KDT3290, and it costs between $12.00 and $14.00 in 2010.

AST 8110

The AST 8110 Specialty Tool Line Disconnect kit is made by Assenmacher. The product number for this tool is AH8110 DLT, and the price ranges from $90.00 to $140.00 in 2010. The kit consists of 10 pieces. You can use these tools on Nissan and Ford vehicles; the -inch oil cooler line remover is specifically for newer Ford vehicles. The kit comes with a carrying case, and each tool is color coded. Tools in the case include a special line remover, oil cooler line remover, line disconnect tool, fuel line remover, GM fuel filter removal tool and fuel filter remover. The tools are made of anodized aluminum.

The 289 was a V-8 engine developed and manufactured by Ford Motor Company in the mid-1960s as a performance engine for the Mustang, Falcon and Fairlane. It was also available in the larger Galaxy sedan, but it was primarily seen as a high performance, small-block engine and could produce up to 300 horsepower in certain configurations.

History

The 289 cubic-inch engine was introduced to the Ford lineup in 1963 and was the power plant for the first Mustangs released in 1964. Through 1968, the engine was a great success, winning races all over the world. The first 289 engines were available with two- or four-barrel carburetors with 190 to 210 horsepower. The Falcon and Fairlane models had the 289 engine as an option in 1965 and 1966. The engine was used through 1968 when Ford converted the block to the 302 engine.

Development

Ford also offered a "Hi-Po" option in the 289 with higher compression which raised the horsepower to 271. It was used in the Shelby Mustang and reached 302 horsepower by 1967. The four-barrel carburetor made a big difference in power output in the Mustang.

Time Frame

In 1968, with rising emission standards, the engines horsepower was reduced from 225 to 190. The engine remained essentially unchanged internally from 1964 through 1966.

In 1969, Ford bored out the 289 and converted it to a 302. The engines remained interchangeable as the only difference was the bore and stroke.

If the gas mileage in your 1996 Ford Explorer has noticeably decreased or the engine is running rough, you may have a failing oxygen sensor. The 1996 Explorer uses four oxygen sensors in the emissions system. The sensors are located to the front and rear of the dual converters and mount straight into the exhaust pipes. You can easily change the oxygen sensors on your truck at home with a few common hand tools.

Instructions

1

Raise your Explorer with a jack and position a set of jack stands beneath it for support. Remove the jack once the jack stands are stable.

2

Disconnect the electrical connection from the oxygen sensor. Remove the oxygen sensor using an oxygen sensor socket and ratchet. Discard the old sensor.

3

Install the new sensor and thread it by hand. Torque the sensor to 30 pound-feet with a torque wrench. Press the wiring connection into place until it clicks.

4

Repeat the process on the remaining sensors if needed. Raise the truck slightly with the jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the truck to the ground and remove the jack.

Replacing the EGR valve on the engine of your Ford Escape may become necessary if the valve is not working or damage occurs to the valve or tube. The EGR valve sits on the top of the engine near the rear of the block and looks like a round disk with a small vacuum tube attached to the top center of the disk. A steel tube runs from the base of the valve to the exhaust manifold that threads into the side of the EGR valve.

Instructions

1

Open the hood and locate the EGR valve. Remove the vacuum line from the top of the line. It pulls loose if you grasp the boot and pull straight up. Lay it aside.

2

Locate the tube coming into the side of the EGR valve from the exhaust manifold. Locate the nut on the tube where it meets the EGR valve and turn it counterclockwise with a wrench and then pull the tube away from the valve.

3

Locate and remove the two bolts on the base of the EGR valve with a socket and ratchet and then remove the valve and gasket from the engine. Discard the old valve and place a new valve on the engine, making sure to install a new gasket between the valve and engine.

4

Install the two retaining bolts and torque them to 18 pound-feet with a socket and torque wrench. Install the riser tube into the side of the EGR valve and tighten the nut to 30 pound-feet with a torque wrench and crows foot wrench.

5

Install the vacuum line on the top of the valve, pushing it straight on until it seats tightly. Close the hood of your escape.

The catalytic converter neutralizes some of the poisonous gases from the exhaust of internal combustion engines common in most modern automobiles. The catalytic converter on the Ford Escape is engineered to work with the Escapes specific engine and exhaust system. In the event a catalytic converter replacement is necessary on an Escape, be sure to purchase an exact replacement for the existing unit. Failure to use the proper replacement catalytic converter will lead to problems with the emissions system.

Instructions

1

Be sure the vehicle is cold and slide under the passenger side. Bring along the wire coat hanger, socket set, box wrenches and replacement catalytic converter.

2

Wrap the coat hanger around the exhaust pipe behind the catalytic converter and up through the frame to keep the pipe suspended.

3

Use the socket set and box wrenches to unbolt the fasteners in the front and rear flanges of the existing catalytic converter. Set the fasteners aside and put the old catalytic converter on the ground, out of the way.

4

Position the new catalytic converter between the collector pipe and exhaust pipe and reinstall the bolts into the front and rear flanges with the socket set and wrenches.

5

Remove the coat hanger from the frame and exhaust pipe and slide out.

Depending on the year, make and model of your Ford F-150, the vehicle may have a temperature sensor and a sender: If the truck as a gauge, it will have both; if not, it will only have the sensor. The sender may be located in the radiator or near the thermostat housing. It reads and sends the temperature of the water/antifreeze mixture to the gauge. The sensor also sends the temperature of the water/antifreeze mixture to the computer, so that the computer can make adjustments in timing, air and fuel mixture, and other adjustments needed by the truck to run ai its optimum performance levels and get the best fuel mileage.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of the F-150.

2

Inspect the front, center of the engine and locate the rear of the thermostat housing. Find the thermostat housing by following the top radiator hose from the radiator to the block.

3

Place your hand on the sensor that is mounted in the intake manifold, just behind the thermostat housing. The sensor has a round plug, which has wires coming from the wiring harness plugged into it. If you remove it, the base will look like a large bolt that screws into the intake manifold.

4

Push the plastic harness connector out and lift the wiring harness plug out of the sensor. Using the socket, unscrew the coolant temperature sensor from the intake manifold.

5

Wipe a thin layer of anti-seize compound on the threads of the coolant temperature sensor. Screw the sensor into the intake manifold. Plug the wiring harness back in.

Many vehicle owners do not realize that not all the parts in their Ford car were manufactured by Ford. Most major car companies do not manufacture all the parts to their vehicles in-house. Ford has contracts with smaller part manufacturers that build the parts that Ford then installs in its vehicles. These manufacturers often continue to make and sell their parts to other companies, which means you can purchase replacement parts from a variety of sources. The designation OEM stands for Original Equipment Manufacturer. When you are looking to buy genuine replacement parts for your Ford vehicle, look for parts that are designated as OEM parts.

Instructions

1

Contact your local Ford dealerships parts and service department. The Ford dealership will have access to all OEM parts and will be able to provide a manufacturer-approved substitution if the OEM part for your vehicle is no longer available.

2

Visit any auto parts store, online or physically, and request OEM parts for your Ford vehicle. Most parts stores stock OEM parts as well as aftermarket upgrades and options.

3

Check local junkyards. If you are really struggling to find a specific part for your Ford vehicle that no one seems to manufacture anymore, you can try to find the part on a junked vehicle that is the same make and model as your own.

4

Contact the manufacturer of the part directly. If you need a specific item and arent having any luck finding it, you may be able to track down which actual factory built the part and send a request directly to them for a replacement. Note than this may not work well if the manufacturer is overseas.

The Ford Taurus is a mid-sized family sedan first introduced in the early 1980s. The Taurus uses a conventional front suspension, with ball joints connecting the knuckle to the wheel hub. The ball joints carry the weight of the front of the vehicle and must meet specific torque specifications when replaced.

Testing and Inspection

Raise the vehicle until its wheels fall to full down position and are off the ground. Have an assistant grasp the lower edge of a tire and move the wheel assembly in and out. As the wheel is being moved in and out, observe the upper end of the wheel spindle and the rear suspension arm and bushing. Any movement will indicate abnormal joint wear.

Torque Specifications

The torque specification for the front lower and upper ball joint nut is 68 to 92 Nm, or 50 to 67 ft. lbs.

Part Replacement

The OEM part number for a ball joint for a 1999 Taurus is 5F1Z3050A. This part is supplied by Ford and available at dealerships.