So Fix it

An engines firing order is the sequence that each cylinder is used in power delivery. The firing order for the 6.6L turbo diesel V8 in the 2004 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 2WD is 1-2-7-8-4-5-6-3.

Gasoline Versus Diesel

In a gasoline engine, the distributor or Engine Control Unit sends electricity to individual spark plugs to ignite fuel in each cylinder in a specific order. In a diesel engine it is determined by the order in which fuel is injected into each cylinder.

Cylinder 1

Engine firing orders always start with cylinder number one, which on this engine is located at the front left of the engine from the drivers point of view.

Cylinder Banks

GM V8 cylinders are numbered 1-3-5-7 on the left (drivers) side of the engine, and 2-4-6-8 on the right (passenger) side.

The Volvo D12 is a diesel engine found in trucks and SUVs. If you are having trouble with your D12, there are a couple of things you can do before you take it to a diesel repair shop. Most of the common issues reside with the fuel, starter and leaks in the system. You can diagnose the problem with non-invasive repair and get your D12 back up and running with little hassle.

Instructions

1

Turn the key to the ignition in the truck or SUV that your D12 is installed on. Look at the gas gauge to make sure that you have enough diesel in the tank to get your engine started. Fill the gas tank with enough fuel to start the engine.

2

Replace old fuel after a seasonal change. You cant use winter diesel in the summer and vice versa. Winter diesel can have condensation in it, which causes misfires to the engine.

3

Siphon out your old diesel to replace it with fresh fuel. Insert one end of a siphon hose to your gas tank. Insert the other end of the hose to an empty container. Pump the siphon hose until all of the gas is out of the tank. Fill the tank with the proper gas.

4

Jack up the front of the truck and climb underneath the engine. Have a friend turn the ignition in the truck. Listen to the small black box on the right side of the engine. This is the starter. If you hear any clicking from the starter, have a technician replace it.

5

Look for leaks around the D12. If you notice any leaks, you should have a mechanic take a look at your engine. Mechanics have special devices for diagnostic tests.

Breaker point distributors were standard equipment on most vehicles prior to the 1970s. The point distributor has a cam-type lobe that opens and closes the breaker points. When the points close, primary voltage is sent to a coil, and the coil sends high voltage to ignite the fuel charge via the spark plug. This sequence is timed for each cylinder as the engine rotates. The distributor cap must be removed to adjust the point gap on most distributors. GM trucks have a small door molded into the cap that provides access to adjust the points while the engine is running.

Instructions

Adjust the Points With a Feeler Gauge

1

Pull the keys from the ignition and pop the hood of the truck. Locate the distributor cap and follow the center ignition wire from the distributor cap to the coil and remove this wire. Most coils mount on top of the engine or the top side of the firewall.

2




Unsnap the clips or remove the screws that hold the distributor cap in place and lift it off the distributor.

3

Remove the rotor button from the top of the distributor shaft. Some rotors are attached with screws, and others just seat over the shaft into a groove to keep the rotor properly aligned.

4

Turn the distributor shaft by rotating the fan blade by hand until the high spot of the distributor lobe opens the contact points or is under the fiber bridge. Turning the fan may require that slight pressure be applied to the fan belt in the direction that the fan is turned.

5

Loosen, but do not remove, the screw that allows the breaker points to move in or away from the distributor shaft.

6

Place a .019-inch feeler gauge flat between the contact points and move the points in or out until the feeler gauge just fits between the contacts. Once adjusted, tighten the hold-down screw. Recheck the point gap, after the screw is tightened, to ensure that the feeler gauge retains the proper fit. If the gap is not right, repeat the adjustment.

7

Insert the keys into the ignition and turn the engine over while an assistant checks to see that the breaker points open and close properly as the distributor shaft rotates.

8

Install the rotor button on the distributor shaft. Look under the rotor button. Some rotors have a square and a round peg that must be inserted in their respective locations. Other rotors just slide into a groove.

9

Replace the distributor cap and coil wire.

Adjust Points With a Dwell Meter

10

Connect the positive lead of a dwell meter to the primary coil wire that comes out of the distributor. Ground the negative lead.

11

Crank the engine over when dwelling the points and observe the gauge reading.

12

Adjust the points contact gap, when dwelling the points, to change the dwell reading. Refer to a service manual for your trucks make, model and year to get the correct number for dwelling the points. Use the same method to adjust the points as in Section 1 but without the feeler gauge.

For the 2010 model year, Dodge continued to market its Dakota, Ram 1500, Ram 2500 and Ram 3500 lines of pickup trucks. The Dakota is considered a mid-size pickup truck, while the Doge Rams are heavy-duty pickup trucks. Each of the Dodge pickup trucks came in several two-wheel-drive and four-wheel-drive trims in 2010. Likewise, each truck was available with multiple types of cabs. Some trims came with different-sized wheels. All of these factors influence the alignment specs of the truck, and it is important to be certain to use the appropriate alignment specs for a given vehicle. Before attempting to adjust the alignment of a 2010 Dodge truck, consult your owners manual or a certified mechanic. The specs provided below apply only to the designated trims of the vehicles and should not be applied to any other Dodge truck of 2010 or any other year. The rear end is not adjustable on any of the vehicles erenced below.

2010 Ram 1500 4X2 with 17-inch Tires

The caster angle should be set at +3.5 degrees on the left front wheel and +3.75 degrees on the right front wheel, with a variance of 0.5 degrees on either wheel and a cross tolerance of 0.5 degrees. The camber angle should be set at +0.1 degrees on the left wheel and -0.1 degrees on the front right wheel, with a variance of 0.5 degrees for either wheel and a cross tolerance of 0.5 degrees. The ideal setting for the toe-in on the front end is +0.1 degrees but it can range from -0.26 to +0.46 degrees.

2010 Ramp 3500 4X4, All Trims Except Box Off

The caster angle on the front end can range from +4.0 degrees to +5.0 degrees, with the ideal setting being +4.5 degrees with a cross tolerance of 0.5 degrees. The camber angle can range from -0.25 degrees to +0.75 degrees, with the ideal setting being +0.25 degrees with cross tolerance of 0.5 degrees. The toe-in should be set at +0.2 degrees but can range from +0.1 degrees to +0.3 degrees.

The 2010 Dakota 4X4

The ideal setting for the caster angle is +3.5 degrees on the front left wheel and +3.8 degrees on the front right wheel, with a variance of 0.5 degrees on either wheel and a cross tolerance of 0.5 degrees. The ideal setting for the camber angle is +0.1 degrees on the front left wheel and -0.1 degrees for the front right wheel, with a variance of 0.5 degrees on either wheel and a cross tolerance of 0.5 degrees. The ideal setting for the toe-in is +0.2 degrees but it can range from +0.1 degrees to +0.3 degrees.

A 1987 Ford Truck relies on two things to start: the battery and fuel in the gas tank. If you are having problems getting your Ford truck to start, you can troubleshoot these two issues and make sure that everything is working properly. If you have a dead battery, you might need to replace it. However, if the battery is just low on a charge, you can jump start the car and allow the battery to charge up.

Instructions

1

Open the hood to gain access to the battery and the battery terminals.

2

Loosen the battery terminals from the battery and clean any corrosion off of them with a wire brush and soda. The sodas carbonation will eat away at the corrosion and allow you to scrub it off with the brush.

3

Reconnect the battery terminals to the battery and try to start your truck.

4

Jump start the 1987 Ford truck with jumper cables and a friends car. Allow the truck to run for about five minutes and then cut it off.

5

Try to restart the truck. If the truck will not restart, replace your battery.

6

Check your fuel level. Add 1 gal. of gas to your truck and then try to restart it. If the truck starts up, replace the gas gauge.

The tire pressure monitoring system on a 2005 General Motors truck consists of four tire sensors, a radio frequency receiver, and a number of modules that work together including the BCM, PCM, and passenger door module, or PDM. The tire monitoring system is activated by default, but whenever the PDM is replaced the Tech 2 scan tool must be used to enable the tire pressure monitoring system. The Tech 2 is GMs factory scan tool, and it is also the only scan tool that can re-activate the TPM system.

Instructions

1

Turn the ignition ON and connect the Tech 2 to the vehicles diagnostic communications port.

2

Power on the Tech 2 and select Diagnostics from the main menu. Select 2005 for the model year.

3

Select LD Trk, MPV, Incomplete. Choose the make of your truck from the menu, then select the body type.

4

Select F2: Chassis, then select Equal to or Under 8600 GVW.

5

Choose Tire Pressure Monitor, then choose TPM Option Enable. Select the option to enable the TPM system from the TPM Option Enable screen. Press exit to move back to the TPM main menu.

6

Select the Tire Type/Pressure Selection menu and enter your tire and pressure information. This information is located on the door sticker inside the drivers door. Press exit to move back to the main menu once youve entered this information.

7

Select Learn Sensor Location from the TPM main menu. Follow the on-screen instructions to allow the PDM to learn the sensor locations. Press exit to move back to the main menu once you are finished. Power off the Tech 2 and disconnect it from the vehicle. Turn on the engine and confirm that the TPM system is activated and operates properly.

A trucks engine belt operates accessories such as the water pump, air-conditioner compressor, power-steering pump and alternator. The belt moves these accessories from the crankshaft pulley. With the engine running, the crankshaft turns the belt around the pulleys so that each accessory can work. Over time, the belt will begin to wear and become loose. Once the belt becomes loose, tighten the belt to the proper tension. Most belt manufacturers recommend to have no more than a half an inch of slack in the belt.

Instructions

1

Open the hood and locate the belt. Follow the belt around the accessories that it operates. Locate the adjusting component that keeps the belt tight inside the pulleys. Most all truck belts are tightened by an adjustment bracket that is mounted to the alternator or the power-steering pump.

2

Loosen the locking bolt from the front of the adjustment bracket with a ratchet and socket. Loosen the pivot bolts that mount the accessory to the engine block with the ratchet and socket.

3

Tighten the belt by turning the adjustment bolt, located on the end of the adjustment bracket, counter-clockwise with the ratchet and socket. Once the belt is tight, push inward on the belt with your hand to check the belt tension. The belt should have no more than a half an inch of slack to be properly tensioned.

4

Re-tighten the lock bolt in the middle of the adjustment bracket with the ratchet and socket. Re-tighten the pivot bolts that mount the accessory to the engine block with the ratchet and socket.

5

Crank the truck engine for about five to 10 seconds. Turn the engine off and recheck the belt tension with your hand. Adjust the belt as needed to get a half an inch of slack in the belt.

The best way to tow a Ford F-150 is on a flatbed truck. Because the Ford F-150 is primarily a rear-wheel drive vehicle, it presents a few unique challenges when it needs to be towed. First, a tow truck that does not have a flatbed must winch the rear wheels instead of the front wheels. The problem with this scenario is that it leaves the front wheels free to turn, potentially causing harm to the F-150 and the tow truck if the wheels suddenly turn while towing is in progress.

Instructions

1

Check that the flatbed truck is at least a medium duty truck able to support 5,500 pound or more. Explain to the tow company or the tow-truck rental company that you will be towing a F-150 and ask for a medium duty or higher weight rated tow truck.

2

Lower the flatbed of the tow truck using the flatbeds hydraulics system so that it makes a ramp. If possible, drive the Ford F-150 up the ramp and park the vehicle and engage the parking brake. If it is not possible to drive the F-150, set the truck to neutral and use the tow trucks winch to pull the F-150 onto the flatbed rear wheels first to avoid damaging the transmission.

3

Secure the truck on the back of the flatbed by connecting the tow-truck winch to the F-150 and securing the tires with chains through the wheels and locked to the sides of the flatbed and tightened down, or lock the F-150 into place using metal plates or wheel chocks. Make sure that the back of the flatbed is flat in the upright position, disengage the hydraulics, and lock the bed before driving off.

The exhaust system on a truck helps to direct the exhaust gases away from the engine bay and safely out the rear of the vehicle. Since exhaust gases coming out of the engine are extremely hot, its best to work on the exhaust system only after the truck has completely cooled down. Over time, most exhaust systems---unless they are stainless steel---will rust or corrode, especially if you live in the northern hemisphere, due to the corrosive nature of the salt and sand that is frequently spread across the roads in winter months to melt ice and snow. Once the rust or corrosion happens, youll have to take off the exhaust system. But youll also need to know how to install an exhaust on a truck.

Instructions

1

Place the new exhaust system on top of the jack stands so that the entire exhaust is raised off the ground. If your truck does not sit high enough off the ground, youll need to simply rest the exhaust system on the ground while you work. Make sure the exhaust is oriented so that the catalytic converter or converters are toward the front of the vehicle and the muffler is toward the rear.

2

Slide the exhaust system onto the hangers underneath the truck that are attached to the body. The hangers are composed of a metal hook with a rubber loop. The new exhaust will have a metal hook also. Youll need to slide the metal hook on the exhaust system through the rubber loop attached to the bodys metal hooks.

3

Install the O2 sensors into the exhaust using the O2 sensor tool and socket wrench. The O2 sensor will thread into the exhaust like a bolt, and youll need to turn it clockwise to tighten.

4

Plug the electrical connectors into the O2 sensor(s).

5

Place a gasket over the end of the exhaust piping, and bolt the exhaust piping to the exhaust manifold on the engine.

6

Turn on the truck and check for any exhaust leaks. You will be able to visibly see any exhaust gases leaking from the connection at the exhaust manifold. If there is a leak, separate the exhaust piping from the manifold, and readjust the gasket or replace it with a new gasket.

Oxygen sensors have been installed on Nissan trucks since the early 1980s. In 1995 and 1996, an additional sensor was added to monitor the catalyst efficiency. V-6 and V-8 engines in Nissan trucks can now have as many as three or four sensors. The upstream sensors are generally in the manifold(s) (two manifolds with V-6 and V-8 engines) or just below it. The downstream sensors are located just behind the catalytic converter(s). Its possible for a do-it-yourselfer to replace these sensors.

Instructions

1

Park the Nissan truck up onto two car ramps and apply the parking brake. Open the hood.

2

Place a wheel block behind one of the rear tires.

3

Crawl underneath the truck with all the tools and a pair of safety glasses on. Locate the sensor you need to replace.

4

Spray the threads of the sensor with a generous amount of penetrating lubricant and allow 5 to 10 minutes to soak in. Repeat this step if necessary.

5

Locate the wire harness plug of the oxygen sensor and disconnect it.

6

Use an oxygen sensor socket and a flex-head ratchet for upstream sensor removal or a 22mm box-end wrench for downstream sensor removal. Turn the sensor counterclockwise to remove it from the exhaust port. If using the ratchet and sensor socket, place the wire of the sensor into the slot of the socket. For the 22mm wrench, feed the wire through the wrench before placing the box-end side onto the sensor.

7

Screw the new sensor into the exhaust port. Most quality replacement sensors will have a slight amount of anti-seize compound on the threads of the sensors right out of the box. Dont get the compound onto the thimble tip of the sensor. If the sensor does not have compound on the threads, its recommended to put a little on them for future replacement repairs.

8

Tighten the sensor using the ratchet or wrench. Be extremely careful not to overtighten the sensor. The threads are very delicate and there are only four or five threads, so its easy to strip them out. Tighten them snug only. Plug the sensor wire back into the wire harness.

9

Remove the wheel block and lower the truck to the ground. Close the hood and drive the truck as normal. The service engine soon light will reset within 50 to 100 miles, or you can take it back to the parts store and have it reset for you.

Heavy duty trucks require different maintenance and repair protocols than smaller vehicles. While many of the components are similar to those seen in smaller trucks, the size of the truck requires a unique set of tools to help in the service, repair and replacement of parts.

Scan Tools

Scanning tools allow truck technicians to find the source of the problem in the function of the trucks components. Scan tools, such as the GSA Contract offered by Diagnostic Innovations, assists in the location of problems in engines, transmissions, and brake systems. These types of scanners are appropriate for both gasoline and diesel-fueled heavy vehicles. In the case of the GSA Contract, which comes in two models, the scan tool functions through a user interface that is capable of being updated and improved depending on the needs of the technician. Other models are additionally available that use the same computer-style set up to analyze the truck without the need to dismantle any major parts.

Drum Handler

With brake drums that weight an average of 120 lbs., drum handlers for work on heavy duty truck brakes are necessary for safe removal and installation. The Drum Caddy offered through Express Brake International is one of many of these types of tools on the market. Drum Caddies allow for the removal, transport and installation of heavy duty truck drum brakes. Placed on the break drum, attached to the axles, tools such as the Drum Caddy provide an easy way to remove the brake drum from the hub of the wheel. In the same way, installation is made easy through the balancing of the drum against the wheel hub. Once aligned, the brake drum can be easily fastened in the correct manner.

Automatic Slack Adjuster

An automatic slack adjuster is used in the adjustment of a heavy duty trucks brake system. Able to recognize the three sections of the breaking stroke, an automatic slack adjuster addresses only the problem area. The automatic slack adjuster is able to measure the clearance for the pre-set running of the system. If the normal setting is incorrect, the slack adjuster rotates to the notch of the control disk and expands to the correct clearance. It can also be used to reduce excessive clearance that occurs when the brake linings or drums become worn.

The 1999 Dodge Ram is a pick-up truck made by Dodge under the Chrysler company. This truck is considered "heavy duty" because its primarily for towing or hauling. If you are having problems with your 1999 Dodge Ram, there are several things that you can do before you take it to a shop. Non-invasive troubleshooting can also help get your Dodge Ram back on the road. You dont have to be a Dodge mechanic.

Instructions

1

Put the key into the ignition and turn it halfway to engage the instrument panel. Look over the gas and battery gauge on the right side of the dashboard. Make sure that you have enough fuel to start the truck. Dodge Rams use regular gasoline. Fill the gas tank as needed.

2

Go to the front of the truck and release the hood latch on the left side of the grill. Raise the hood to reveal the engine and the battery. The battery is on the right side of the engine inside the truck. Make sure that the connections are tight from the battery cables to the battery terminals.

3

Tighten the connections to the battery with pair of insulated channel locks. Try to restart the truck. If the truck will not restart, test the battery with a voltmeter. Place the testing leads from the voltmeter to the battery terminals. Look at the display on the voltmeter for a reading. Replace the battery if you arent getting 11-12 volts on your battery.

4

Look over the cooling system if you are having problems with Ram overheating. The cooling system is on the left side of the engine. Pour 50/50 coolant into the coolant tank until it reaches the fill line on the side of the tank. You dont have any 50/50 coolant, use distilled water.

5

Look around the Dodge Ram for leaks around the truck. If you find any leaks, you should have a professional mechanic take a look at the truck in order to make repairs. Driving your Ram while there is a leak could further damage the unit.

6

Have your Dodge Ram towed to a repair shop if you have your check engine light on. Repair shops have onboard diagnostic machines to diagnose the problems.

The neutral safety switch on the 1997 Dodge Dakota prevents the truck from being accidentally started in any other position than park or neutral. This prevents the vehicle from being started in gear and taking off which could cause an accident since the brake pedal does not need to be applied in order to turn the engine over. Like on many other domestic vehicles, the switch on the Dakota also accounts for the back-up light switch. The center terminal in the plug on the switch is for the neutral safety switch and the the two on either side of it is for each back-up light.

Instructions

1

Drive the 1997 Dodge Dakota slowly up onto two car ramps and apply the parking brake. Turn the engine off and remove the keys.

2

Put on a pair of safety glasses and crawl underneath the Dakota and locate the transmission behind the engine (and the transfer case on four-wheel drive models).

3

Locate the neutral safety switch on the drivers side lower housing of the transmission. It will have a wire harness plugged into it and underneath the plug, the switch will offer a hex-head in order to remove it from the transmission with a socket and ratchet.

4

Prep the replacement neutral safety switch with thread seal compound or tape on the threads and set it aside in a handy location without getting the threads contaminated with dirt or grease from under the truck.

5

Place the drain pan beneath the neutral safety switch position in the transmission housing.

6

Disconnect the wire harness from the neutral safety switch plug.

7

Loosen the neutral safety switch with the socket and a ratchet until it can be spun/removed my hand. Place the ratchet and socket down, but do not remove the switch yet.

8

Get the replacement neutral safety switch ready in one hand while removing the old switch with the other hand. Transmission fluid is going to start to pour from the switch port when it is removed. Remove the old switch and hand thread the new one in as quickly as possible to prevent losing too much transmission fluid.

9

Tighten the neutral safety switch to 25 foot-pounds with the torque wrench and socket.

10

Crawl out from under the truck with all the tools. Release the parking brake and slowly back down off the car ramps.

11

Run the engine allowing it enough time to reach operating temperature (inspect the temperature gauge regularly--it could take up to 20-minutes or so). In the interim, hop in the drivers seat and place a foot on the brake pedal while shifting through all the gears periodically.

12

Open the hood with the engine running and remove the transmission oil dipstick (red or black handled--do not confuse it with the yellow handled engine oil dipstick tube. Wipe the dipstick clean and look at the bottom of the dipstick for the hash-mark indicating "Full." If necessary, add transmission fluid through the dipstick tube using a funnel, but only add a little at a time. Allow a few minutes in between rechecking the level of the fluid so the new fluid is allowed to drain down into the transmission pan from the dipstick tube.

The front wheels on a 2005 F250 Super Duty truck are designed to withstand heavy duty work. Because the F250 is a heavy duty truck, the wheels have eight lug nuts, instead of the usual five or six lug nuts found on light duty trucks. The lug nuts are a special swivel-type nut, designed to stay tight in situations where normal fixed nuts can loosen. Its also important that you never apply any lubricant such as engine oil to the wheel studs or lug nuts, because this could also cause them loosen under certain circumstances.

Instructions

Removal

1

Park the F250 on a flat, level surface and turn off the engine. Shift the transmission into park, or first gear for F250s equipped with a manual transmission.

2

Press the parking brake pedal down to engage the parking brake. Place one wheel chock behind each of the rear wheels. Pry the hub cap loose, if equipped, with a large flat-head screwdriver.

3

Break each of the eight lug nuts loose with a lug nut wrench. This is important, because if you try to loosen the nuts when the vehicle is lifted, the wheel will spin and you wont get any leverage.

4

Lift the front of the truck with a jack and place a jack stand under each side of the front frame. Lower the truck onto the jack stands and make sure theyre secure.

5

Remove the lug nuts with the lug nut wrench and pull the tire off of the truck.

Installation

6

Set the wheel onto the studs and reinstall the lug nuts. Snug them tight with the lug nut wrench while holding the wheel to make sure it doesnt turn.

7

Lift the truck with the jack, then remove the jack stands and lower it back to the ground.

8

Tighten the lug nuts to 165 foot-pounds with a torque wrench an metric socket in an alternating, criss-cross pattern.

9

Place the hub cap onto the wheel and tap it down into position with a rubber mallet.