So Fix it

Nissan is a popular car brand in the United States. Nissans are manufactured in both four- and six-cylinder models. Replacing the ignition coils on a four-cylinder is the same as a six-cylinder, just with fewer steps. Although diving into your cars engine may sound a bit daunting, replacing the ignition coils on your Nissan engine is not quite as complicated as it may seem.

Instructions

1

Lift the hood of your Nissan and prop it open. Identify the cylinders on the rear side of the engine. These are cylinders 1, 3 and 5. This is where you will find the coil harnesses.

2

Notice the green tabs on the grey coil harnesses.

3

Push down on the inside of the harness to release it from the coil. This may take a good bit of pressure.

4

Place the harnesses, in the order removed, on the ground so that you can keep track of which cylinder each belongs to.

5

Remove the 10 mm bolt that locks each of the three coils to the engine.

6

Remove the coils from the engine.

7

Remove the cover plate on the front of the engine by detaching the four screws that hold it in place. This will expose the coils on cylinders 2, 4 and 6.

8

Remove the coil harnesses in the same manner as the rear harnesses were removed.

9

Set the harnesses aside in order.

10

Remove the three 10 mm bolts that hold the front coils in place.

11

Slide the front engine coils out from the engine block.

12

Place the new coils inside cylinders 2, 4 and 6.

13

Tighten the coils with the three 10 mm bolts.

14

Position the harnesses over the coils.

15

Reattach the cover plate and tighten the four screws to secure it.

16

Place the new coils at the rear of the engine.

17

Attach the coils with the three 10 mm bolts and tighten.

18

Place the coil harnesses into position and attach them to the coils.

The Nissan Motor Company began importing the Datsun pickup truck to the United States in 1959. Automobile consumers in the United States were accustomed to large vehicles containing V8 engines, so the Datsun 1000, a compact truck with a 37-horse power four-cylinder engine, was a foreign concept to most American automobile consumers. Nissan soon dropped the Datsun name and continued to manufacture the truck under the Nissan name. Nissans sales continue to grow with continued innovations and standard features that include automatic transmissions and fuel injection. Installing a torque converter requires moderate automotive repair knowledge. The transmission should already be removed from the truck being serviced.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the trucks battery.

2

Raise the front of the truck off of the ground using a jack. Place one jack-stand behind each front wheel assembly, under the "A" arm. Lower the truck onto the jack-stands. Make sure the front of the truck is safely supported. Remove the jack.

3

Raise the rear of the tuck off of the ground using a jack. Place one jack-stand behind each rear wheel assembly, under the rear axle. Lower the truck onto the jack-stands. Make sure the rear of the vehicle is safely supported. Remove the jack.

4

Align the spines on the output shaft of the transmission to the grooves inside the torque converter

5

Push the torque converter onto the output shaft of the transmission by hand until the torque converter is fully seated.

6

Lift the transmission up using a transmission jack and align the flywheel studs on the torque converter to the holes in the flywheel. The flywheel is mounted on the rear of the engine, under the truck. Make sure the transmission is securely strapped or chained to the transmission jack before raising the transmission.

7

Push the transmission and jack assembly forward by hand until the torque converter studs come through the holes in the flywheel. Make sure the torque converter is sitting flush against the flywheel assembly and the bell housing is sitting flush against the rear of the engine.

8

Insert all six bell housing bolts through the bell housing into the rear of the engine block. Thread the bolts by hand to make sure there is no cross-threading. Tighten the bolts using a torque wrench and socket to the manufacturers recommended torque level. Make sure the bell housing is sitting flush on the rear of the engine block before tightening the bolts. Do not use the bell housing bolts to pull the two units together.

9

Locate the torque converter access cover on the bottom of the bell housing. Remove the two access cover bolts using a socket wrench and socket and pull the access cover off by hand. Set the access cover aside.

10

Locate the transmission gear selector switch on the drivers side of the transmission. Place the transmission in neutral. Check that the transmission is in neutral by rotating the flywheel and torque converter assembly by placing a pry bar through the access cover hole and turning the engine flywheel counterclockwise.

11

Thread all six of the torque converter nuts onto the torque converter studs by hand. Rotate the engine flywheel assembly counterclockwise using a pry bar to access each torque converter stud.

12

Tighten the torque converter nuts in a star pattern to the manufactures recommended torque level using a torque wrench and socket. Replace the bell housing access cover and tighten the two retaining bolts.

13

Replace the transmission cross-member and secure the cross-member to the truck frame using two bolts. Tighten the bolts using a torque wrench and socket to the manufacturers recommended torque level. Attach the transmission to the cross-member using two nuts. Tighten the nuts using a torque wrench and socket to the manufacturers recommended torque level.

14

Raise the starter mobile assembly up to the passenger side of the bell housing by hand. Insert the "gear end" of the starter motor assembly into the bell housing. Make sure the visible starter motor gears are facing the flywheel assembly and attach the starter motor assembly to the bell housing using two bolts. Tighten the two bolts using a torque wrench and socket to the manufacturers recommended torque level.

15

Attach the two transmission cooler lines to the passenger side of the transmission using a flare nut wrench.

16

Insert the drive shaft into the rear of the transmission. Lift the U-joint end of the drive shaft up to the rear axle of the vehicle and thread the four drive shaft retaining bolts through the U-joint into the rear end by hand. Tighten the four bolts to the manufactures recommended torque level using a torque wrench and a socket.

17

Attach the transmission shift linkage to the transmission gear selector switch on the driver side of the transmission and secure with a nut. Tighten the nut using a socket wrench and socket until the shift linkage is fully secure.

18

Locate the fluid filler tube hole on the front, driver side of the transmission. Insert the fluid filler tube into the transmission through the engine compartment. Secure the fluid filler tube onto the transmission using a bolt and tightening the bolt clockwise using a socket wrench and socket.

19

Raise the rear of the vehicle using a jack. Remove the two jack-stands. Lower the rear of the vehicle to the ground. Remove the jack.

20

Raise the front of the vehicle using a jack. Remove the two jack-stands. Lower the front of the vehicle to the ground. Remove the jack.

21

Connect the negative battery cable to the vehicles battery. Start the truck and let the engine idle until it reaches normal operating temperature. Shut off the trucks engine. Check the transmission fluid. Add fluid as needed until the transmission dip-stick reads full.

Repairing problems in any car can be time consuming and frustrating when a person doesnt know the accouterments which make the cars year and model unique. While some car manuals can be used as reference even when the car year is different, it is always helpful to find information about the specific car in question. A good way to approach any repair questions is to peruse knowledgeable sites as well as the car manual.

Instructions

1




Start by going to the Free Online Auto Repair website. At the top of the page near the logo, click on "Troubleshooting Guide". On the next page near the top, right click on "Nissan". On the new page click "Nissan Altima" from the list of Nissan models. This link leads to the part of the auto repair site that is devoted to solving or repairing Altima problems. Go through the sections and see if there is any information that may help in figuring out how to repair a 1993 Nissan Altima.

2




Get a repair manual for the 1993 Nissan Altima. While there are a few places which allow manual downloads, one in particular is the Auto Repair Manuals website. Type "1993 Nissan Altima" into the search box located at the top left of the page. When the search results come up, click on "1993 - 2006 Nissan Altima, Haynes Repair Manual". This link will bring up a page that allows this product to be purchased. There are also some free websites which may have the manual as well.

3




Talk to someone who has considerable knowledge in working on cars. Some car repair shops can do a paid general look-through of the car in order to determine what the problem is. It may also be helpful to seek out people experienced in car repair that fix their own vehicles. Even though their specialty may not be the 1993 Nissan Altima model, their familiarity with cars in general may be enough to isolate the problem and start repairs.

4

Compare all the resources gathered and use them to repair the problem at hand.

The Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve, or PCV valve, in your 2001 Nissan Maxima prevents the crankcase emissions from flowing back into the engine, causing a rough idle and poor-running car. When the PCV valve wears out, replace it to keep your Maximas engine running at its best. Buy a replacement valve from an auto-parts retailer and change it at home in minutes.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of the Maxima. Locate the PCV valve on the drivers side of the valve cover, near the firewall. It is a black, elbow-shaped valve with a rubber vacuum hose attached to the end.

2

Pull the vacuum hose from the exposed end of the valve. Grasp the top of the valve and pull it straight out of the valve cover.

3

Insert the new PCV valve into the cover, pushing it into place until it is secure. Push the vacuum line onto the open end of the valve and make sure it is tight.

4

Start the engine and listen for any skipping or rough noises during idle -- they would indicate that you may not have inserted the valve completely.

Making sure that the wheels are aligned correctly on your Nissan Quest is important for many reasons. Correct wheel alignment helps to prevent uneven tire wear. It is also necessary so that the vehicle tracks straight and true down the road, without pulling or wandering from one side to the other. The three angles of wheel alignment -- caster, camber and toe -- have specifications for the correct settings.

Caster

Caster is the forward and backward tilt of the upper control arm or strut in relationship to the lower control arm. If the upper suspension component tilts forward, it has negative camber. If the upper suspension component tilts backwards, then it has positive camber. Camber, like other alignment angles, is measured in degrees. The 1996 Quest caster specifications call for a positive camber range of 1/20 to 1 11/20 degrees, with the ideal being 4/5 of a degree of positive caster.

Camber

Camber is the tilt inward or outward of the wheel in relationship to the center of the vehicle. If the wheel tilts outward at the top, it has positive camber. If the top of the wheel tilts inward towards the center of the vehicle, it has negative camber. The range of camber can be from 9/20 to 1 1/20 degrees positive. The ideal measurement is 3/4 of a degree positive.

Toe

Toe is the relationship between each of the wheels in relationship to the center line of the vehicle. If the front of the wheel tilts inward, the toe is negative. If the front of the wheel tilts outward, the toe is positive. Each wheel has its own toe measurement, in addition to the measurement of total toe, which is the sum of the toe from both sides. Toe is also measured by how many inches closer the wheels are in the front of the tires than the rear. The correct setting for the Nissan Quest is 0.08 to 0.16 inches toe-in.

Adjustments

Caster and camber settings on the Quest are not adjustable. If caster or camber are out of specifications, you will need to replace the components that are causing the problem with the suspension. Toe is adjustable by turning the sleeves on the tie rods in the correct direction.

Rear Alignment

The angles on the rear are the same as on the front, except there is no caster measurement. Caster is primarily a measurement concerning turning and since the rear wheels do not steer, caster is not applicable. The rear wheels should have a camber measurement between minus 1/4 degree to 1/4 degree. Rear toe should be from minus 0.16 degree to 0.16 degree. Rear camber is not adjustable, but the toe is. If the camber is off, replace the components that are responsible for the incorrect angles.

Oxygen sensors have been installed on Nissan trucks since the early 1980s. In 1995 and 1996, an additional sensor was added to monitor the catalyst efficiency. V-6 and V-8 engines in Nissan trucks can now have as many as three or four sensors. The upstream sensors are generally in the manifold(s) (two manifolds with V-6 and V-8 engines) or just below it. The downstream sensors are located just behind the catalytic converter(s). Its possible for a do-it-yourselfer to replace these sensors.

Instructions

1

Park the Nissan truck up onto two car ramps and apply the parking brake. Open the hood.

2

Place a wheel block behind one of the rear tires.

3

Crawl underneath the truck with all the tools and a pair of safety glasses on. Locate the sensor you need to replace.

4

Spray the threads of the sensor with a generous amount of penetrating lubricant and allow 5 to 10 minutes to soak in. Repeat this step if necessary.

5

Locate the wire harness plug of the oxygen sensor and disconnect it.

6

Use an oxygen sensor socket and a flex-head ratchet for upstream sensor removal or a 22mm box-end wrench for downstream sensor removal. Turn the sensor counterclockwise to remove it from the exhaust port. If using the ratchet and sensor socket, place the wire of the sensor into the slot of the socket. For the 22mm wrench, feed the wire through the wrench before placing the box-end side onto the sensor.

7

Screw the new sensor into the exhaust port. Most quality replacement sensors will have a slight amount of anti-seize compound on the threads of the sensors right out of the box. Dont get the compound onto the thimble tip of the sensor. If the sensor does not have compound on the threads, its recommended to put a little on them for future replacement repairs.

8

Tighten the sensor using the ratchet or wrench. Be extremely careful not to overtighten the sensor. The threads are very delicate and there are only four or five threads, so its easy to strip them out. Tighten them snug only. Plug the sensor wire back into the wire harness.

9

Remove the wheel block and lower the truck to the ground. Close the hood and drive the truck as normal. The service engine soon light will reset within 50 to 100 miles, or you can take it back to the parts store and have it reset for you.

When a blower motor resistor fails, the blower motor will only operate in one speed; this is often the first and only sign of a faulty blower motor resistor. This malfunction occurs because the resistor regulates the amount of current flowing to the blower motor in relation to the position of the fan speed control knob. Since the blower motor switch in a 2007 Nissan Versa is located behind the brake pedal assembly, a number of components must be disassembled in order to perform this repair.

Instructions

Removal

1

Shut off the engine and open the hood. Disconnect the negative battery terminal with a metric box-end wrench.

2

Open the drivers side door and remove the fuse panel cover. Remove the screws holding the lower panel finisher with a metric nut driver. Pull the lower panel finisher away from the dashboard until it pops loose. Disconnect the diagnostic data ports electrical connector and remove the finish panel from the vehicle.

3

Disconnect the accelerator pedal position sensors electrical connector. Remove the stop lamp switch from the brake pedal assembly by gently popping it loose.

4

Remove the snap and clevis pins from the brake booster with a small flat-head screwdriver and needle-nose pliers. Remove the nuts holding the brake pedal assembly bracket to the vehicle with a metric socket and a ratchet. Remove the brake pedal assembly from the vehicle.

5

Locate the blower motor resistor. It is situated directly behind the brake pedal assembly on the rear of the firewall. It is held in place by two screws and is rectangular in shape. Disconnect the blower motor resistors electrical connector. Remove the screws holding the blower motor resistor to the vehicle with a screwdriver and remove it from the vehicle.

Installation

6

Set the new blower motor resistor in place and reinstall its retaining screws. Reconnect its electrical connector.

7

Inspect the brake pedal assembly for deformations, bends, cracks, and any sub-standard condition. Measure the lapping length of the sub-bracket and side plate with a metric caliper. Ensure that the length is at least 6.9 mm. If any of these conditions are out of specification, replace the brake pedal assembly before proceeding.

8

Set the brake pedal assembly in place and reinstall the nuts holding the brake pedal assembly to the vehicle with a metric ratchet and socket. Reinstall the snap and clevis pins to their original location.

9

Reinstall the stop lamp switch into the brake pedal assembly. Check the brake pedal assembly to ensure that it operates properly.

10

Set the lower panel finisher into place and press down on it until it snaps into position. Reinstall the lower panel finisher screws. Reconnect the diagnostic data ports electrical connector and reinstall the fuse panel cover.

11

Reconnect the negative battery terminal. Turn on the ignition and test the blower motor to ensure that it operates properly at all speeds.

The Nissan D21 is a light-weight pickup truck that was manufactured in the late 90s. The D21 was available with an optional rear cab to extend the seating from three to five. The drivers and passengers seats have removable headrests, which protect the occupants from whiplash in the event of a collision. The headrest protects vehicle occupants by not allowing the head to completely rotate backwards after an impact.

Instructions

1

Slide your finger under the left side of the headrest to locate the button at the headrests base.

2

Press in the button on the base of the headrest.

3

Pull up on the headrest, while holding in the button, to remove the headrest. Repeat the previous steps to remove the other front seat headrest.

Replacing the knock sensor on the Nissan Maxima is simple, but the sensor can be expensive, so be sure to have the car properly diagnosed before assuming the sensor is bad. The knock sensor detects engine knock or ping in the engine, then transmits data to the engine-management computer, enabling the computer to retard or make other critical adjustments to the timing, spark and fuel delivery.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your Maxima and locate the negative battery cable at the battery terminal. Using a wrench, remove the retaining bolt and separate the cable from the battery, isolating the cable while you work.

2

Locate the knock sensor on the top edge of the engine block on the right side of the engine. It is about halfway back and is a circular part with a bolt running through the center and an electrical connector on the outer edge. Disconnect the wiring harness connector from the knock sensor by lifting the locking tab slightly and then pulling the connector off the sensor.

3

Remove the bolt from the center of the knock sensor with a socket and ratchet, them remove the sensor from the engine block. Position the new sensor on the engine block and insert the retaining bolt through the center, threading it into the engine block.

4

Tighten the bolt with a socket and ratchet, then install the electrical connector on the sensor. Make sure you push the connector in enough for the locking tab to engage.

5

Connect the negative battery cable on the negative battery terminal. Install the retaining bolt and tighten it with a wrench. Close the hood of your Maxima.

Removing the catalytic converter from your Nissan Pathfinder allows for the replacement of it without having to replace other parts of the exhaust system. The converter is designed to reduce harmful emission or cases out the tailpipe of your Nissan, and if it is not working correctly, it needs to be replaced. A plugged converter may become very hot and often will cause the engine to run rough as well as producing an extremely unpleasant odor from the tailpipe.

Instructions

1

Place a jack under the front of your Pathfinder and raise it off the ground. Position a set jack stands under the front suspension to support the truck, then remove the jack for now.

2

Locate the catalytic converter from under the truck. It is in the exhaust system just below the drivers feet. Remove the two bolts in the rear flange that hold the exhaust pipe to the rear flange of the converter using a wrench.

3

Move to the front flange of the catalytic converter and remove the three retaining bolts with a wrench. Lower the catalytic converter and remove it from under the truck.

4

Raise a new catalytic converter into position and align the mounting flanges with the flanges on the exhaust pipes. Install the three front mounting bolts into the flange and tighten them with a wrench. Install the two mounting bolts into the rear flange and tighten them with a wrench.

5

Position the jack under the front of your Pathfinder and raise it off the jack stands. Remove the jack stands, then lower the Pathfinder to the ground.

The 2004 Nissan Xterra is equipped with disc-type front brakes. This type of brake uses two pads pressing against a disc-shaped brake rotor to create friction, which stops the vehicle. If the brake pads become excessively worn and are not replaced, the rotor can be damaged. If this happens, you will need to remove the rotor and either have it repaired at a machine shop or replace it with a new one. To remove the rotor and bearing assembly, you will first need to remove the brake caliper. The procedure differs slightly on 4WD vehicles.

Instructions

1

Loosen the wheel lug nuts. Raise the front of the vehicle with a jack and support each side with a jack stand. Remove the lug nuts and take off the wheel.

2

Saturate the entire brake assembly with brake fluid and allow it to dry. This will remove the dangerous dust generated by the brake pads.

3

Remove the three bolts that attach the brake caliper. There are two bolts that face inward, and one that faces downward.

4

Rotate the caliper off the rotor and use a piece of wire to suspend it from the SUVs body. This prevents strain on the brake lines.

5

Remove the free running hub assembly on 4WD models by removing the six bolts that hold it in place. Pull it off the hub. This step does not apply to 2WD models.

6

Use a flat screwdriver to remove the lock washer from the center of the hub. For a few dollars, you can also obtain a special tool for removing the locking washer. The lock washer is only present on 4WD models.

7

Remove the wheel bearing locking nut from the center of the hub by turning it counterclockwise. On 2WD models, you can use a large pair of needle nose vice grips to remove it. On 4WD models, you will need the special removal tool. The tool is available from Nissan dealers or you can usually rent it at tool-rental agencies or auto-parts stores.

8

Pull the rotor and hub assembly off the axle. If it is stuck, use a rubber mallet to gently tap it around the edges.