Monday, May 12, 2014
How to Disconnect and Fix a Duramax Battery
The Duramax diesel engine is fitted in heavy duty trucks made by General Motors. The battery can be the cause of problems within the engine for a variety of reasons, and while the battery sometimes has to be replaced, you may be able to top up the battery fluid and get it working again. The battery itself is not particularly complicated, but it does contain some toxic chemicals so often it is better to purchase a replacement than attempt a repair yourself.
Instructions
- 1
Park your diesel truck on level ground and open the hood. Locate the battery. In some models it is hidden under a plastic cover. Remove the plastic cover by undoing the clips. You may need to use the screwdriver to pry open the clips.
2Disconnect the black, negative terminal from the battery by loosening the nut on the clamp and pulling the clamp up and off the battery terminal. Disconnect the red positive terminal by loosening the nut holding the clamp in place and lifting the wire off the terminal.
3Remove the clamp or bar holding the battery in place by loosening both nuts. Grasp the battery with both hands, remove it from the vehicle and set it on a work bench or similar.
4On top of the battery are two rectangular covers. Pry these up with the flathead screwdriver and set them aside. They are very tight and they have acid underneath so be very caul the acid does not splash on you or anything around you. Some batteries may not have the cover in place. These are not fixable and have to be replaced.
5Pour distilled water into the battery until the acid and water completely covers the terminals. Replace the covers on top of the battery by pushing down firmly. Replace the battery in the vehicle.
6Replace the clamp or bar over the top of the battery and tighten the nuts to hold it in place. Replace the clamp over the positive (red) terminal and tighten the nut to hold it in place. Do the same with the negative (black) terminal
7Replace the plastic cover over the battery, close the hood and start the truck to make sure the battery works. If the battery was dead before you started then you may need to jump start the truck.
Saturday, April 12, 2014
4 6 Engine Rebuilding Tips and Tricks
Whenever you decide to take on the often daunting task of rebuilding any engine, whether its a large, complex type of engine or a lawn mower, the most important part of the undertaking is a thorough knowledge of engines in general and how they function. This is especially true when the engine being rebuilt is the Ford 4.6, or the F6AE. When these engines were built, they were built in two locations and with two specification settings. The fact that the 4.6-liter engine has been used in a number of Ford vehicles is another factor in the need for a thorough knowledge of the specific engine being rebuilt and the specifications of each different component of the engine itself.
Romeo v. Windsor
The two plants that manufacture the Ford 4.6L engine are erred to as the Romeo and the Windsor plants, because of their geographic location. The difference between the two manufacturing facilities makes all of the difference for rebuilding the engine, because the two plants built different models, which also included manufacturing two forms of the same engine. Beyond that, the plants also manufactured two types of 4.6 engine, erred to as PI and NPI, or Power Improved and Not Power Improved. These two headings directly affected the manner in which the components of the engine were built and to what specifications they were adhered. You must make sure you distinguish the difference before you begin to rebuild so you can order the right parts.
Rings and Gaskets
Because of the specifications to which the engines have been built, you must take into consideration the fact that the gaskets and the rings that are used within the engine to create sealed components come in different sizes and are made of different materials. This means that a specific O-ring or piston ring cannot be purchased for the engine unless the specific set for the engine being rebuilt has been established.
Model Type vs. Model Year
Because of manufacturing demands and supply-chain requests, the engine model that was built for a specific make and model may have changed from one year to the next, meaning that just because a 1999 model was built with a Romeo PI 4.6 doesnt necessarily mean that the year 2000 model was even manufactured in the same plant. The next model year could be altered from a Romeo PI 4.6 to a Windsor NPI 4.6, depending on manufacturing needs. This should always be the first determination you make when deciding to rebuild a 4.6 engine.
Wednesday, April 2, 2014
How to Drill and Tap Cast Iron
The crystalline structure of cast iron varies depending on the rate the steel was cooled. Cast iron drills differently than other types of steel due to the variations in the steel structure. When drilling rolled steel, the material drilled from the hole will work in a spiral from the tip of the drill bit. Cast iron emits numerous small chips of metal. Occasional hard spots in the cast iron can break the tip of a drill bit if you apply excessive pressure on the tip of the bit. Tapping a hole drilled in cast iron requires care to avoid breaking taps in the hole when you encounter a hard spot.
Instructions
- 1
Find the size of the fastener you need to thread into the cast iron on a drill and tap chart. Follow the line on the chart representing the fastener size to determine the drill-bit size. For example, a 1/4-20 threaded fastener on a drill and tap chart will show a 7 drill bit as an ideal size for the tap.
2Secure the drill bit from the set into the chuck of a variable-speed drill motor. Coat the drill bit with cutting fluid.
3Drill the hole into the cast iron by pumping the trigger of the drill motor to keep the rpms of the drill motor low. Coat the drill bit with additional cutting fluid if smoke appears in the drilling area.
4Install the correctly sized tap into the T-handle tap wrench. Coat the tap with cutting fluid.
5Insert the tip of the tap into the drilled hole. Pour additional cutting fluid along the tap and into the hole. Turn the tap wrench clockwise to start tapping the hole. Twist the tap wrench 1/2 turn counterclockwise if the tap binds in the hole. Continue alternating between clockwise and counterclockwise until you have a tapped hole. Remove the tap from the hole.
6Thread the fastener into the tapped hole. Run the tap through the hole if the fastener does not thread readily into the hole.
Thursday, December 5, 2013
How do I Locate and Repair a Ford F 150 Temperature Sensor
Depending on the year, make and model of your Ford F-150, the vehicle may have a temperature sensor and a sender: If the truck as a gauge, it will have both; if not, it will only have the sensor. The sender may be located in the radiator or near the thermostat housing. It reads and sends the temperature of the water/antifreeze mixture to the gauge. The sensor also sends the temperature of the water/antifreeze mixture to the computer, so that the computer can make adjustments in timing, air and fuel mixture, and other adjustments needed by the truck to run ai its optimum performance levels and get the best fuel mileage.
Instructions
- 1
Open the hood of the F-150.
2Inspect the front, center of the engine and locate the rear of the thermostat housing. Find the thermostat housing by following the top radiator hose from the radiator to the block.
3Place your hand on the sensor that is mounted in the intake manifold, just behind the thermostat housing. The sensor has a round plug, which has wires coming from the wiring harness plugged into it. If you remove it, the base will look like a large bolt that screws into the intake manifold.
4Push the plastic harness connector out and lift the wiring harness plug out of the sensor. Using the socket, unscrew the coolant temperature sensor from the intake manifold.
5Wipe a thin layer of anti-seize compound on the threads of the coolant temperature sensor. Screw the sensor into the intake manifold. Plug the wiring harness back in.
Tuesday, November 26, 2013
How to Find and Replace the Blower Motor Resistor on a 2007 Nissan Versa
When a blower motor resistor fails, the blower motor will only operate in one speed; this is often the first and only sign of a faulty blower motor resistor. This malfunction occurs because the resistor regulates the amount of current flowing to the blower motor in relation to the position of the fan speed control knob. Since the blower motor switch in a 2007 Nissan Versa is located behind the brake pedal assembly, a number of components must be disassembled in order to perform this repair.
Instructions
Removal
- 1
Shut off the engine and open the hood. Disconnect the negative battery terminal with a metric box-end wrench.
2Open the drivers side door and remove the fuse panel cover. Remove the screws holding the lower panel finisher with a metric nut driver. Pull the lower panel finisher away from the dashboard until it pops loose. Disconnect the diagnostic data ports electrical connector and remove the finish panel from the vehicle.
3Disconnect the accelerator pedal position sensors electrical connector. Remove the stop lamp switch from the brake pedal assembly by gently popping it loose.
4Remove the snap and clevis pins from the brake booster with a small flat-head screwdriver and needle-nose pliers. Remove the nuts holding the brake pedal assembly bracket to the vehicle with a metric socket and a ratchet. Remove the brake pedal assembly from the vehicle.
5Locate the blower motor resistor. It is situated directly behind the brake pedal assembly on the rear of the firewall. It is held in place by two screws and is rectangular in shape. Disconnect the blower motor resistors electrical connector. Remove the screws holding the blower motor resistor to the vehicle with a screwdriver and remove it from the vehicle.
Installation
- 6
Set the new blower motor resistor in place and reinstall its retaining screws. Reconnect its electrical connector.
7Inspect the brake pedal assembly for deformations, bends, cracks, and any sub-standard condition. Measure the lapping length of the sub-bracket and side plate with a metric caliper. Ensure that the length is at least 6.9 mm. If any of these conditions are out of specification, replace the brake pedal assembly before proceeding.
8Set the brake pedal assembly in place and reinstall the nuts holding the brake pedal assembly to the vehicle with a metric ratchet and socket. Reinstall the snap and clevis pins to their original location.
9Reinstall the stop lamp switch into the brake pedal assembly. Check the brake pedal assembly to ensure that it operates properly.
10Set the lower panel finisher into place and press down on it until it snaps into position. Reinstall the lower panel finisher screws. Reconnect the diagnostic data ports electrical connector and reinstall the fuse panel cover.
11Reconnect the negative battery terminal. Turn on the ignition and test the blower motor to ensure that it operates properly at all speeds.
Monday, November 18, 2013
How to Retouch and Repair Car Paint
No matter what you do, there will always be an occasion where your car can be dinged. When this happens, the paint on the body can be chipped. Taking your car into an auto body shop could cost you a lot of money. You can touch up the paint on your car with little hassle and save the money you would have spent on an auto body shop.
Instructions
- 1
Open your driver side door and check the sticker to get your paint color.
2Write the vehicle identification number down if you cant find the paint color for your car. A dealer will be able to tell you the paint color via the VIN.
3Buy the paint from an online retailer or an auto paint shop.
4Clean the ding on your car using soap and water. Use a towel to dry the ding.
5Apply a car paint primer to the ding with a thin paintbrush. Give the primer about five minutes to dry.
6Use a thicker paintbrush to apply the paint to the ding on your car. Give the paint 20 minutes to dry.
7Retouch the paint if needed.
Wednesday, November 13, 2013
How to Assemble and Remove an Ashtray in a 2006 Cadillac STS
The STS, which stands for the S-Series Touring Sedan, is a full-size luxury car manufactured by Cadillac since 2005. The 2006 STS features an upright dash loaded with accessories: dual-zone front climate control, Bose premium radio, XM satellite radio, DVD navigation system, Bluetooth wireless data link and OnStar telecommunications service. The ashtray is located below the climate control. Removal of the ashtray is a simple task, once you remove the center trim panel.
Instructions
Removal
- 1
Use a thin putty knife or a fiber stick to pry out the bottom of the center trim panel from around the radio, ashtray and display. The trim is held in with retaining clips. Work your way up slowly and gently pull the panel toward you. Label and disconnect any wiring connectors from the back. Remove the panel and set it aside.
2Remove the four screws holding the ashtray.
3Pull the ashtray forward and disconnect the electrical connector from the back.
Installation
- 4
Connect the electrical connector to the back of the ashtray.
5Slide the ashtray into the opening and install the four screws. The screws should be tightened to 80 inch-pounds or until tight.
6Reconnect any wiring connectors to the back of the center trim panel.
7Place the center trim panel on the dash and carefully push on the panel to engage the retaining clips.
Monday, November 11, 2013
How to Troubleshoot Pontiac Montana Transmission Problems Hard Shifting and Whining
The Pontiac Montana is a minivan manufactured by General Motors. If you start to feel your Montana jerk when you put it in drive, you could have an issue with the transmission. Most of the time the issues you have with your transmission are because the fluid level is low. Low fluid can cause your Montana to jerk and make all kinds of weird sounds. You can troubleshoot the transmission before you decide to take it to the transmission shop.
Instructions
- 1
Open the front hood on your Montana.
2Start the engine.
3Remove the transmission dipstick and wipe it with the terrycloth. The dipstick is located on the side of the engine and has the word "transmission" on it. Stick the dipstick back in and then take it right back out. Look at the fluid level. Make sure that it is filled to the line indicating cold level. Low transmission fluid will cause the vehicle to shift hard and make a whining sound.
4Look all around the transmission for any loose, broken or frayed wires. The transmission works by hydraulics that are controlled with electric sensors. If any of the wires are not connected, it will cause transmission malfunctions.
5Smell the fluid in the transmission. You can pull out the dipstick again and make sure that the fluid is clean. Dirty and burnt-smelling fluid can cause serious issues with the Montana transmission.