So Fix it

The Ford 5.4-liter engine is a V-8 engine with aluminum cylinder heads. It appears in various Ford vehicles made since 1997, such as the F-Series of pickup trucks. The 5.4-liter engine has a pair of cylinder heads, one on each side of the engine. The head gasket lies between the cylinder head and the engine block, and makes a tight seal between the two components. The procedure for replacing the cylinder head gaskets is generally the same for both gaskets.

Instructions

1

Evacuate the air-conditioning system with the appropriate evacuating equipment. This step requires a mechanic licensed by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA).

2

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to prevent the engine from starting during the head gasket replacement. Remove the covers for the cylinder head, and disconnect the intake manifold from the engine block. Detach the timing chains from their sprockets, and remove both exhaust manifolds from the engine block.

3

Remove the retaining bolts from the heater hose on the engine block with a socket wrench. Release the hose clamp by squeezing it together and sliding it down the hose. Detach the hose from the engine block. Detach any additional cables, electrical connectors and hoses that restrict your access to the cylinder head.

4

Disconnect the mounting bolts from the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Detach the cylinder head from the engine block. Remove the head gasket from the engine block and discard it. Remove any traces of the gasket from the cylinder head and engine block with a gasket scraper.

5

Turn the crankshaft clockwise by hand so that the key way on the crankshaft is in the 12 oclock position. Place the new gasket for the cylinder head over the dowel pins on the engine block. Mount the cylinder head over the dowel pins, so that the head is on top of the gasket.

6

Install new mounting bolts to the cylinder head by hand. Tighten the bolts to 30 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Tighten the mounting bolts for the cylinder head an additional 85 to 95 degrees on the second pass. Tighten the mounting bolts an additional 85 to 95 degrees on the third pass.

7

Connect the heater hose to the cylinder head, and fasten its retaining bolts with a socket wrench. Slide the hose clamp in place to secure the hose. Attach the exhaust manifolds to the engine block, and mount the timing chains to their sprockets. Connect the intake manifold to the engine block.

8

Attach the covers for the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Connect all additional electrical connectors, cables and hoses you removed to obtain access to the cylinder head.

9

Recharge the air-conditioning system with the appropriate equipment. This step requires a mechanic licensed by the EPA.

10

Fill the engine oil and coolant to their proper levels. Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Start the engine and check for fluid leaks.

Jeep Wranglers are equipped with hydraulic clutches. There are two components to a hydraulic clutch system, a master cylinder and slave cylinder. When you push on the clutch with your foot the master cylinder pushes hydraulic fluid down a line to the slave cylinder. The slave cylinder then pushes the clutch lever, opening and closing the clutch. Master cylinders have a tendency to lose pressure over time and need to be changed.

Instructions

1

Remove the clutch master cylinder cap. It is bolted to the firewall at the highest point above the steering column. Suck out all the fluid with the syringe.

2

Disconnect the hydraulic line coming into the cylinder with a 3/8-inch open end wrench.

3

Remove the upper and lower master cylinder mounting nuts with the 1/2-inch wrench.

4

Lean under the dashboard on the inside of the cab. Trace the clutch pedal up to the point where it meets the lever coming in from the master cylinder. The pedal is joined to the lever with a cotter pin. Pull out the cotter pin with pliers. Using your fingers, disconnect the pedal from the lever by pulling it to the side.

5

Pull the cylinder free from the firewall. Insert the new cylinder. Screw both cylinder mounting bolts back into the firewall securing the cylinder to the firewall. Screw the 3/8-inch hydraulic line onto the new cylinder.

6

Lean under the dashboard. Connect the clutch pedal to the master cylinder lever coming in through the firewall. Insert the cotter pin.

7

Fill the master cylinder with hydraulic fluid but leave the cap off. Get into the vehicle and pump the brake several times until the brakes have sufficient resistance. You will be able to feel the brake get stiff as any air escapes when you are pumping the brakes. Put the cap back on the master cylinder.

Removing a steering wheel lock cylinder can be tricky, and definitely requires patience. But with instructions, the right tools and a little patience, you can easily accomplish this task on your own. The technique may differ among car models, but the same tools are required.

Star Bit Drivers

The star bit drivers tool is used to remove the two sets of screws from the back of the steering wheel. This enables you to disconnect the wires connected to the airbag. The star (torx) drivers are also used to disconnect the horn button from the steering wheel by removing the two screws attaching it. This is done by pushing down a plastic tube, while turning it counterclockwise, and pulling the tube out.

Steering Wheel Puller

The steering wheel puller is a specialized tool used to remove the steering shaft nut locking the steering wheel. This is achieved by sliding the wheel puller through the holes on the steering wheel while removing it. The steering wheel puller forces out the steering wheel by jerking the center tube of the puller against the column shaft.

Wheel Spring Compressor

The wheel spring compressor is used to remove the steering wheel locking center. The spring compressor is fitted on the steering tube and is yarned down. It turns the nut down, pushing the fork down on the center. The spring compressor compresses down the center enough for you to see if the snap ring retainer is loose. If loose, you can easily pick it with a small pocket screwdriver.

Phillips Screwdriver

The Phillips screwdriver can be used to retract the horn pad from the steering wheel, by removing the two screws behind the steering wheel shafts. It operates by turning the screwdriver counterclockwise. The Phillips screwdriver is also used to remove the two screws holding the plastic signal in place by turning it counterclockwise. It also removes the ignition lock holding screw, which is accessed by lifting up the turning signal mechanism. Once this screw is out, it allows you to pull out the lock cylinder off the steering wheel shaft.

Adjustable Wrench

The adjustable wrench is used with a wheel puller to remove the steering wheel. An adjustable wrench is a type of spanner with a jaw that you can adjust to fit any width and is suitable to use with a variety of nuts. It works by turning the center screw on the wheel puller clockwise until the steering wheel is lifted of the shaft. The adjustable wrench also enables you to remove the middle screw connecting the steering wheel to the steering tube by backing it out in a counterclockwise manner.

Needle Nose Pliers

The needle nose pliers is made of hard steel; it has a thin blade with a sharpened edge making it suitable to pick on thin wires. Needle nose pliers are used to expose the locking ring in the keyhole. This is achieved by pressing down the lock ring inward so that it is released from the cap inside. When the pliers compress the ring down enough, the cap pops off by itself.

Car engines perform fast actions, such as the pistons moving within the cylinders, over many years of use. If the engine begins to fail, cylinder heads can be milled to bring the engine back into proper performance standards.

Function

Typically, milling engine cylinder heads is part of a larger repair called an engine rebuild. The lower portion of the engine block is detached, inspected and cleaned. The cylinder heads are then resurfaced to properly seat the pistons and rings within the cylinders body.

Expert Insight

Cars Direct estimates that a common four-cylinder engine rebuild can cost from $400 to $500, and as the amount of cylinders increases, so does the pricing. A six-cylinder vehicle costs about $500 to $600, and an eight-cylinder increases to between $600 and $700. Estimates are as of early 2011.

Considerations

The extent of damage to the cylinder heads can increase the cost of rebuilding. The more resurfacing that is needed requires extra labor hours to create the correct effect for a properly functioning vehicle.

General Motors manufactured a four-cylinder 2.2-liter engine known simply as the 2.2 engine from 1990 to 1997. This engine appears in many GM vehicles from this period, such as the Chevrolet Cavalier. The cylinder head in this 2.2-liter engine is part of the combustion chamber and sits on top of the engine block. The removal procedure for the cylinder head is generally similar for all vehicles with the 2.2-liter engine.

Instructions

1

Open the filler cap on the fuel tank to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank. Start the engine and disconnect the fuel pump fuse in the fuse box. Allow the engine to idle until it stalls and crank the engine for at least three seconds to ensure the fuel system is empty. Replace the fuel pump fuse in the fuse box.

2

Remove the negative battery cable with a socket wrench to prevent the accidental discharge of fuel during the cylinder head removal. Disconnect the air cleaner assembly from the engine and detach the vacuum lines to access the cylinder head.

3

Detach the electrical connectors from the engine to obtain access to the cylinder head. This typically includes the electrical connectors for the fuel injector, canister purge solenoid, manifold absolute pressure sensor, throttle position sensor, oxygen sensor and engine coolant temperature sensor.

4

Disconnect the cables from the accelerator control bracket and remove the accelerator control bracket from the engine with a socket wrench. Raise the vehicle with a floor jack and support it on jack stands.

5

Remove the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold. Place a clean container under the drain plug for the radiator and open the drain plug. Drain the coolant into the container and store the coolant for reuse. Lower the vehicle with the floor jack.

6

Relieve the tension on the serpentine drive belt by turning the belt tensioner counterclockwise and detach the serpentine drive belt from its pulleys. Disconnect the alternator from the engine. Remove the bracket for the power steering pump with a socket wrench and push the pump aside to gain access to the cylinder block.

7

Support the engine with engine support fixture J-28467-A. Disconnect the upper motor mount with a socket wrench and remove the bracket for the drive belt tensioner.

8

Remove the electrical wiring from the spark plugs and disconnect the evaporative emissions line under the intake manifold. Detach the outlet coolant hose from the engine. Disconnect the transmission filler tube from the intake manifold if your vehicle has automatic transmission. Detach the fuel lines from the engine and detach the valve cover from the engine.

9

Record the position of the rocker arms and push rods before removing them from the cylinder block. This will allow you to install them to the correct positions later.

10

Note the positions of the cylinder head bolts before removing them with a socket wrench. Lift the cylinder head from the cylinder block with the intake and exhaust manifolds still attached. Remove both manifolds from the cylinder head.