So Fix it

Jeep Wranglers are equipped with hydraulic clutches. There are two components to a hydraulic clutch system, a master cylinder and slave cylinder. When you push on the clutch with your foot the master cylinder pushes hydraulic fluid down a line to the slave cylinder. The slave cylinder then pushes the clutch lever, opening and closing the clutch. Master cylinders have a tendency to lose pressure over time and need to be changed.

Instructions

1

Remove the clutch master cylinder cap. It is bolted to the firewall at the highest point above the steering column. Suck out all the fluid with the syringe.

2

Disconnect the hydraulic line coming into the cylinder with a 3/8-inch open end wrench.

3

Remove the upper and lower master cylinder mounting nuts with the 1/2-inch wrench.

4

Lean under the dashboard on the inside of the cab. Trace the clutch pedal up to the point where it meets the lever coming in from the master cylinder. The pedal is joined to the lever with a cotter pin. Pull out the cotter pin with pliers. Using your fingers, disconnect the pedal from the lever by pulling it to the side.

5

Pull the cylinder free from the firewall. Insert the new cylinder. Screw both cylinder mounting bolts back into the firewall securing the cylinder to the firewall. Screw the 3/8-inch hydraulic line onto the new cylinder.

6

Lean under the dashboard. Connect the clutch pedal to the master cylinder lever coming in through the firewall. Insert the cotter pin.

7

Fill the master cylinder with hydraulic fluid but leave the cap off. Get into the vehicle and pump the brake several times until the brakes have sufficient resistance. You will be able to feel the brake get stiff as any air escapes when you are pumping the brakes. Put the cap back on the master cylinder.

You can adjust the parking brake on your 1995 Ford Mustang right from your driveway or garage. Doing so will save you time and money. You can test whether or not your parking brake needs an adjustment by positioning it downhill and trying to hold the vehicle in place using only the parking brake. If it doesnt hold and the Mustang starts to slip, you need to adjust it. The good news is that it takes only one simple tool that you probably already have at home.

Instructions

1

Find the center console cover and remove it by pressing the release levers on the sides and pulling up on it. This is located between the front passengers seat and the drivers seat.

2

Lift up the parking brake handle four clicks.

3

Find the adjuster nut at the end of the cable rod. Loosen the nut with the pliers but take care that the nut doesnt fall off.

4

Lower the parking brake lever all the way. Turn the nut with the pliers until it is very close to the parking brake handle.

5

Lift up the parking brake handle to its highest position, then lower it all the way to the lowest position. Do this four times. This will set the brake adjustment.

6

Put the center console cover back in place.

7

Test the parking brake adjustment by positioning the vehicle on a downward facing slope and try to hold the Mustang in place using only the parking brake. If it holds the vehicle in place, then you have done the adjustment correctly.

The 1995 Chevrolet Suburban is available with a V-8 engine, which has a cylinder head on each side. The cylinder head forms part of the combustion chamber, and contains the poppet valves and spark plugs. A cracked cylinder head can contaminate the Suburbans oil supply with coolant, giving the oil a milky appearance. The components you need to remove to install a cylinder head on a 1995 Chevrolet Suburban are different for each head. The replacement of both cylinder heads requires up to nine hours of labor.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Drain the coolant from the radiator into a container, and store it for later use. Disconnect the intake manifold and exhaust manifolds from the vehicle.

2

Disconnect the attaching bolt from the air pipe on the right cylinder head with a socket wrench, and detach the pipe. Remove the mounting bolts from the air compressor on the right cylinder head, and push the compressor aside. Remove the fuel line and spark plug wire from the right cylinder head. Detach the ground wire from the right side cylinder head.

3

Disconnect the mounting bolt from the main accessory bracket, and detach the bracket from the left cylinder head. Push the bracket aside to obtain access to the left cylinder head. Detach the coolant sensor wire and spark plug wires from the rear of the left cylinder head.

4

Disconnect the covers for the cylinder heads with a socket wrench, and unscrew the spark plugs from the cylinder heads. Loosen the retaining nuts for the rocker arms, and rotate the rocker arms to obtain access to the push rods. Record the position of the push rods, and remove the push rods from the cylinder heads.

5

Remove the mounting bolts from the cylinder heads with a socket wrench, and lift the heads from the engine block. Remove the gasket from the engine block, and clean any remaining traces of gasket material from the engine block with a gasket scraper. Mount a new gasket to the engine block so that the word HEAD on the gasket faces up. Place the new cylinder head on the engine block.

6

Clean the mounting bolts for the cylinder heads with a shop cloth, and fasten them to the cylinder head by hand. Tighten the cylinder head bolts with a torque wrench in three passes. The first pass must tighten them to 25 foot-pounds, the second pass must tighten them to 45 foot-pounds and the third pass must tighten them to 65 foot-pounds.

7

Place the push rods in their original positions on the cylinder head that you recorded in step four. Move the rocker arms back into position and tighten their mounting bolts with a socket wrench. Replace the covers for the cylinder heads, and install the spark plugs.

8

Replace the components you removed in step three if you removed the left cylinder head. Replace the components you removed in step two if you removed the right cylinder head. Refill the radiator with coolant, and attach the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

Prior to the second phase of onboard diagnostics (OBD II), implemented in 1996, many vehicles (including the 1995 Chevrolet Astro Van) came equipped with a single oxygen sensor. This sensor was placed on the manifold or front exhaust pipe to monitor the mixture emitting from the exhaust. Emissions that indicated the engine was running vehicles too lean (too much air) or too rich (too much fuel) would trigger the sensor to communicate to the computer and set off the malfunction indicator lamp. In 1996, the number of oxygen sensors doubled or even quadrupled on vehicles in order to also monitor efficiency of the catalytic converter.

Instructions

1

Apply the parking brake on the Astro Van and then pull the primary hood release latch on the drivers-side kick panel.

2

Open the hood by releasing the secondary hood release latch and then support the hood with the hood prop rod. This will allow some light through the engine compartment for more visibility when changing the oxygen sensor.

3

Lift the front end of the van with the jack and then support it on jack stands placed under the concave frame rails in the front.

4

Put on the safety glasses, gather the remaining items needed and then crawl under the front of the van.

5

Locate the catalytic converter at the center of the exhaust system and follow the exhaust system to the front of the engine. The oxygen sensor is located on the front pipe, below the passenger-side seating area.

6

Spray the penetrating lubricant onto the thread connection of the oxygen sensor-to-front pipe mating surface. Allow a few minutes to pass for the spray to penetrate.

7

Follow the wire on the end of the oxygen sensor to the plug connection of the wire harness (about 8 inches away). Use the small, slotted screwdriver to unlock the clip retainer on the wire harness connection and then unplug the oxygen sensor wire from the wire harness plug.

8

Place the oxygen sensor socket onto the ratchet and align the wire of the oxygen sensor through the slot of the socket. Place the socket firmly onto the oxygen sensor and apply counterclockwise pressure to loosen it from the front pipe. Remove the sensor.

9

Inspect the new direct-fit oxygen sensor threads. Many come equipped with a light coating of electrically conductive anti-seize compound. If there is none on the threads, spread a light coating of the anti-seize compound on the threaded section of the oxygen sensor only. Do not get the compound on the electrode of the sensor.

10

Hand-thread the new sensor into the exhaust port on the front pipe and tighten using fingers as much as possible.

11

Tighten the sensor fully with the socket and ratchet. Only snug the sensor to the front pipe. The threads of the sensors are much softer than the port and can easily strip if over-tightened.

12

Reconnect the oxygen sensor wire to the wire harness plug.

13

Start the engine up and then crawl back under to check for any obvious exhaust leak coming from the oxygen sensor port. If necessary, tighten the sensor a little more until there is no leak.

14

Lower the Astro Van and release the parking brake.

Manufactured by General Motors, the 1995 Chevrolet Caprice falls into the category of large luxury cars. The good sides of the car included anti-lock brakes (ABS), ability to tow trailers and very impressive size of cargo and passenger room. The 1995 Caprice was also equipped with Powertrain Control Module (PCM) with significantly improved drivability and fuel economy.

Measuring Ignition Timing

A timing light is used to check the timing. When the motor is running, an inductive trigger signal is picked up from one of the spark plug cables causing the light to illuminate and freeze while the spark plug fires. This helps determine the crankshaft position.

Timing Specifications

The ignition timing is completely controlled by the PCM. No timing specifications are available.

Adjustments

The base timing is preset when the engine is manufactured, no adjustment is possible. Timing advance and retard are accomplished through the PCM with ignition control (IC) and knock sensor (KS) systems.

Its time to adjust your 1995 Toyota pickup parking brake when it doesnt hold your vehicle in park. This is especially apparent when you are parked facing downhill. On older model trucks such as those built in 1995 this is a periodic adjustment you should make to ensure that the parking brake functions properly. It requires only a few tools that most backyard mechanics have on hand.

Instructions

1

Release and lower the hand brake down as far as it will go.

2

Find the center console cover that houses the parking brake lever. This can be found between the drivers seat and the front passengers seat. Find two screws on either side of the cover and remove them with a screwdriver. Lift off the center console cover.

3

Look for two nuts attached to two rods that are poking out of a metal plate. Tighten the nuts carefully. Check the parking brake to see how many clicks it moves up. Keep tightening the nuts until you have adjusted the parking so that it clicks three times when you pull up on it.

4

Put the center console cover back in place. Put the screws in and tighten them with the screwdriver.

You can retrieve the engine codes for your 95 Chevy using an OBD I code reader. A code reader may be purchased from any auto parts retailer. Engine codes are diagnostic codes sent from sensors in the engine to the On-Board Diagnostics (OBD I) computer. The computer stores the diagnostic codes and alerts you to any malfunctions via illuminating the "Check Engine" light on the instrument panel. Always retrieve the codes and have repairs made before attempting to reset the computer and turn off the warning light using the code reader.

Instructions

1

Locate the rectangular-shaped fuse panel cover underneath the steering wheel. Pull down on it from the top to open it.

2

Look for the port just to the left side of the fuse panel. Plug the OBD I code reader into this port.

3

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "ACC" position, but dont crank the engine. This will turn on most scanners. If it doesnt turn on yours, look for the on/off switch on the code reader and turn it on.

4

Wait for the code reader to retrieve the codes. Write the codes down on a piece of paper. Turn off the code reader, if necessary, and unplug it from the diagnostic port. Turn off the Chevy. Look up the meaning of the codes in the code readers manual.

Air Conditioning does not come stock on every vehicle but some would argue that depending on where you live, its an absolute necessity. Air Conditioners work by pulling the heat of air using a coolant called Freon and then blowing it into the cab of the car. Unfortunately, the Freon is a consumable product like the oil or windshield wiper fluid and will eventually run out, leaving your air conditioner blowing out tepid air at best. When the car is out of Freon, it can be refilled or "recharged," bringing back the cool air.

Instructions

1

Locate the air conditioning compressor, next to the battery.

2

Back-off the valve handle that comes in the kit and screw it into the refrigerant kit until the rubber O-ring is inside the threaded portion.

3

Remove the dust cap from the "low-side" charging connection.

4

Attach the quick fitting on the kit hose to the charging connection.

5

Start the engine and let it run for about 10 minutes with the air conditioner on taking car that the hoses arent near the engine fan and other moving parts.

6

Make sure the compressor is on.

7

Turn on the valve handle until you hear the refrigerant release.

8

Add refrigerant until the accumulator surface and the evaporator inlet pipe are about the same temperature to touch.

9

Place thermometer on the air conditioning vent in the cab. The temperature should read 40 degrees if system is fully charged.

10

Close the valve on the canister and store any excess.

11

Put dust cover back on the "low-side" charging connection.

The Neon is a compact car that Chrysler manufactured under its Dodge brand from 1995 to 2005. The 1995 model had a 4-cylinder, 2.0-liter engine with fuel injection, which requires a highly pressurized fuel system. This requires a fuel pressure regulator to maintain the pressure in the fuel system within a specific range. The fuel pressure regulator in a 1995 Dodge Neon is part of the fuel pump module, which you must remove to install the fuel pressure regulator.

Instructions

1

Remove the negative cable from the battery. Open the fuel filler cap and remove the cap for the fuel pressure port on the fuel rail. Place one end of hose C-4799-2 in a gasoline container, and attach the other end of the hose to the fuel pressure port. Allow the fuel to drain into the gasoline container. Disconnect the hose from the fuel pressure port and replace the cap on the port.

2

Raise the Neon with a jack and support it on jack stands. Remove the cap from the drain tube at the rear of the fuel tank. Connect one end of a siphon hose to the drain tube and place the other end into a gasoline container. Drain the fuel tank into the gasoline container. Replace the cap on the drain tube.

3

Press the quick-connect fittings on the fuel lines to the fuel pump module and detach the fuel lines. Tap the locking ring for the fuel pump module with a hammer and brass punch to turn the locking ring counterclockwise. Remove the locking ring and pull the fuel pump module from the fuel tank. Discard the O-rings for the fuel pump module.

4

Pull apart the tabs on the retainer for the pressure regulator. Pry the fuel pressure regulator from its housing with a small pry tool. Lubricate the new O-rings with engine oil and place them onto the fuel pump module. Push the new fuel pressure regulator into position on the pump module. Push the tabs on the retainer for the fuel pressure regulator over the corresponding tabs on the fuel pump module.

5

Install the fuel pump module into the fuel tank and place the locking ring into position on the fuel pump module. Turn the locking ring clockwise until it locks into place. Connect to the fuel lines to the fuel pump module.

6

Lower the vehicle and fill the tank with fuel. Fasten the filler cap for the fuel tank and connect the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

Your Honda Accords bumpers are the first parts of defending the cars ends during a possible rear-end or head on collision. Should the unfortunate occur, you may find that replacing the bumper to your 1995 Accord is not such a difficult task. If you are able to find a matching replacement for the bumper, you may be able to perform this repair procedure from home. Luckily, there are no special tools required for the job.

Instructions

Removing and Installing the Front Bumper

1

Open the engine compartment.

2

Remove the radiator grille by unscrewing the five screws at the top with a Phillips screwdriver. Push down on the retaining tabs, with a flathead screwdriver, located between the grill and each headlight. Remove the grille.

3

Unscrew the plastic retaining screws with a Phillips screwdriver, and unbolt the bumper bolts using your socket wrench, from under the bumper.

4

Unscrew the retaining screw on each turn signal light housing with a Phillips screwdriver. Pull the housings towards you to release them. To remove the bulb sockets, turn them counter-clockwise and pull. Set the housings aside.

5

Remove the bolts that are located inside the turn signal recesses with your wrench. Some Accords may have more plastic screws instead of bolts in the recesses.

6

Remove the remaining plastic screw along the top of the bumper with your Phillips screwdriver.

7

Separate the bumper by pulling it up and then sliding it towards you.

8

Follow all steps in this section in reverse to install the new bumper. There are no torquing specifications for tightening the bolts.

Removing and Installing the Rear Bumper

9

Pry off, with a flathead screwdriver, the rear bumper to fender well clips that retain the bumpers forward ends.

10

Unscrew and remove the five plastic screws at the top of the bumper with your Phillips screwdriver. Do the same for the four screws at the bottom of the bumper.

11

Unscrew the side markers (lights) retaining screws with your Phillips screwdriver and take out the light housings. Turn the light sockets counterclockwise to remove the sockets and bulbs. Set the housings aside.

12

Unbolt the two lower bumper retaining bolts using your socket wrench, underneath your Accord.

13

Remove the trim panels from inside your Accords trunk and unbolt the upper retaining nuts with your socket wrench.

14

Pull the bumper towards you and remove it.

15

Follow all steps in this section in reverse to install the new bumper. There are no torquing specifications for tightening the bolts.