So Fix it

Remove the clutch master cylinder cap. It is bolted to the firewall at the highest point above the steering column. Suck out all the fluid with the syringe.

Disconnect the hydraulic line coming into the cylinder with a 3/8-inch open end wrench.

Remove the upper and lower master cylinder mounting nuts with the 1/2-inch wrench.

Lean under the dashboard on the inside of the cab. Trace the clutch pedal up to the point where it meets the lever coming in from the master cylinder. The pedal is joined to the lever with a cotter pin. Pull out the cotter pin with pliers. Using your fingers, disconnect the pedal from the lever by pulling it to the side.

Pull the cylinder free from the firewall. Insert the new cylinder. Screw both cylinder mounting bolts back into the firewall securing the cylinder to the firewall. Screw the 3/8-inch hydraulic line onto the new cylinder.

Lean under the dashboard. Connect the clutch pedal to the master cylinder lever coming in through the firewall. Insert the cotter pin.

Fill the master cylinder with hydraulic fluid but leave the cap off. Get into the vehicle and pump the brake several times until the brakes have sufficient resistance. You will be able to feel the brake get stiff as any air escapes when you are pumping the brakes. Put the cap back on the master cylinder.

Open the hood and find the positive battery terminal. Loosen the bolt attached to the clamp with an adjustable wrench. Remove the clamp from the terminal and take care not to touch it to the negative side of the battery. Wait one minute.

Replace the positive clamp to the positive battery terminal and tighten the bolt with the wrench.

Put the key in the ignition and turn it to the "On" position for about five seconds. Turn the engine on. The engine warning light will flash and then turn off.

Remove the fuel pump relay from the power distribution center. Start the engine, and allow it to run until it stalls. Crank the engine to ensure that it will not start, and turn the ignition switch to the off position. Disconnect the cable to the batterys negative terminal with a socket wrench to prevent accidental sparking while you work on the vehicle.

Drain the fuel tank by siphoning the fuel through the filler cap opening into a container approved for gasoline. Disconnect the fuel filler from the body of the vehicle with a socket wrench. Remove the right rear tire and its wheelhouse liner to gain access to the two vapor lines for the fuel tank, and disconnect the vapor lines. Detach the electrical connector and fuel supply line for the fuel tank.

Support the fuel tank with a transmission jack, and remove the bolts that hold the fuel tank to the skid plate. Lower the fuel tank slightly, so you can disconnect the fuel filler hose from the fuel tank. Remove the nuts for the fuel tank straps, and separate the fuel tank from the skid plate. Remove the fuel tank from the vehicle.

Place special tool 9340 into the notches on the outside edge of the lock ring of the fuel pump. Attach a 1/2-inch breaker bar to the special tool, and rotate the breaker bar counterclockwise. Remove the lock ring from the fuel pump module, and detach the fuel pump module from the fuel tank. Discard the gasket on the fuel tank.

Install a new gasket on the fuel tank, and install the new fuel pump into the fuel tank. Place the locking ring on the fuel pump module, and align the arrow on the locking ring with the center alignment mark on the fuel pump module. Turn the locking ring clockwise with special tool 9340 until the notches on the locking ring engage. Install the fuel tank by reversing steps 3 and 2. Tighten the nuts for the fuel tank strap so there is 30 mm of clearance between the bottom of the nuts and the end of the strap studs. Tighten the nuts for the skid plate to 141 inch-lbs. with a torque wrench. Fill the fuel tank, and connect the cable to the negative terminal of the battery. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.

Raise the front of your Jeep with a jack. Position a set of jack stands under the front axle housing and lower the jack until the Jeep is resting securely on the jack stands.

Locate the catalytic converter under the truck. It is in the exhaust system just in front of the muffler and just behind the exhaust down pipe. Find the flange at the front of the converter with the two mounting bolts that secure it.

Remove the mounting bolts from the front flange with a ratchet and socket then separate the front pipe from the catalytic converter. Move to the back of the converter and locate the exhaust clamp that secures the catalytic converter to the muffler.

Remove the two mounting nuts from the clamp and separate the catalytic converter from the muffler by pulling the converter forward. Twisting the converter as you pull it will often help to free it from the pipe.

Remove the converter from under the truck.

Remove the two Phillips head screws that hold the interior door handle in place. There is a screw at each end of the handle.

Remove the Phillips head screw on the door handle lock mechanism.

Pry off the plastic panel from the metal surround with a flat head screwdriver. Place the screwdriver between the plastic panel and the metal door and slide it in between until each plastic clip has been removed. Work around the door in a clockwise fashion until the panel is removed.

Disconnect the locking rods from the interior door handle. The locking rods connect to the handle and need to be pulled up through the bracket manually to be removed.

Remove the panel and place it on a flat surface. If the panel needs to be re-installed, do so in the reverse order of removal.