So Fix it

Power steering hoses carry fluid to and from the steering gear to operate the power steering system, and the pump supplies the necessary pressure for operation of the power steering rack or gearbox.

Power Steering Hose

Multiple power steering hoses are in a typical power steering unit. The cost of the parts required to repair the hose ranges from $60 to $100 in a common domestic car, like the Ford Taurus, according to RepairPal in Nov. 2010, and between $15 and $225 for a new foreign car like the Mercedes-Benz CLS550.

Power Steering Pump

The cost of parts for a power steering pump repair in a common domestic car ranges from $120 to $151, and from $210 to $640 in a foreign luxury car; although prices for pumps in auto parts stores can exceed $1000.

Labor

Labor to repair a power steering hose ranges from $100 to $125 for a common domestic car and from $180 to $230 in a luxury foreign car. Power steering pump labor costs range from $120 to $150 for a common domestic car and from $220 to $280 in a luxury foreign car.

Removing a steering wheel lock cylinder can be tricky, and definitely requires patience. But with instructions, the right tools and a little patience, you can easily accomplish this task on your own. The technique may differ among car models, but the same tools are required.

Star Bit Drivers

The star bit drivers tool is used to remove the two sets of screws from the back of the steering wheel. This enables you to disconnect the wires connected to the airbag. The star (torx) drivers are also used to disconnect the horn button from the steering wheel by removing the two screws attaching it. This is done by pushing down a plastic tube, while turning it counterclockwise, and pulling the tube out.

Steering Wheel Puller

The steering wheel puller is a specialized tool used to remove the steering shaft nut locking the steering wheel. This is achieved by sliding the wheel puller through the holes on the steering wheel while removing it. The steering wheel puller forces out the steering wheel by jerking the center tube of the puller against the column shaft.

Wheel Spring Compressor

The wheel spring compressor is used to remove the steering wheel locking center. The spring compressor is fitted on the steering tube and is yarned down. It turns the nut down, pushing the fork down on the center. The spring compressor compresses down the center enough for you to see if the snap ring retainer is loose. If loose, you can easily pick it with a small pocket screwdriver.

Phillips Screwdriver

The Phillips screwdriver can be used to retract the horn pad from the steering wheel, by removing the two screws behind the steering wheel shafts. It operates by turning the screwdriver counterclockwise. The Phillips screwdriver is also used to remove the two screws holding the plastic signal in place by turning it counterclockwise. It also removes the ignition lock holding screw, which is accessed by lifting up the turning signal mechanism. Once this screw is out, it allows you to pull out the lock cylinder off the steering wheel shaft.

Adjustable Wrench

The adjustable wrench is used with a wheel puller to remove the steering wheel. An adjustable wrench is a type of spanner with a jaw that you can adjust to fit any width and is suitable to use with a variety of nuts. It works by turning the center screw on the wheel puller clockwise until the steering wheel is lifted of the shaft. The adjustable wrench also enables you to remove the middle screw connecting the steering wheel to the steering tube by backing it out in a counterclockwise manner.

Needle Nose Pliers

The needle nose pliers is made of hard steel; it has a thin blade with a sharpened edge making it suitable to pick on thin wires. Needle nose pliers are used to expose the locking ring in the keyhole. This is achieved by pressing down the lock ring inward so that it is released from the cap inside. When the pliers compress the ring down enough, the cap pops off by itself.

Power assisted steering is a mechanism which enables a driver to steer a vehicle more easily. It consists of five parts, including the power steering pump, steering wheel, steering rack, speed sensor and steering fluid. While the complete failure of a power steering is small, owing to the large number of parts involved, things can go wrong. If you know the symptoms, you can avoid costly repairs in the future by identifying the problems early on.

Fluid Color

Power steering fluid is pumped around the system to assist with the turning of a wheels. It withstands up to 1,200 lbs. of pressure, while it flows through the mechanism. The color of the fluid can indicate problems. As old fluid oxidises, it changes from red to dark grey or black. The fluid may also have bubbles in it, indicating an air leakage into the system. Finally, loose debris might be carried in it. Look at the steering fluid for these symptoms, which will show a damaged power steering system.

Fluid Leakages

It is important that there is a constant high level of steering fluid in the vehicles power steering system. This is the blood of the system, if it runs low it indicates that there is a leakage within the system. This symptom shows that there must be a hole in a pipe, or a connection is out of line, and theore causing the fluid to drip out.

Difficultly Steering

As a driver, you may notice changes in the power steering while you drive the vehicle. Instead of applying little force to the steering wheel as you turn corners, the steering might become more difficult--like a manual system. Jumpy steering may also be experienced. This is a sign of a malfunctioning drive belt, caused by excessive heat being generated. Alternatively, the drive belt may lack tension and is sliding out of place.

Unusual Noises

Squeaking, clunking or squealing noises are symptoms of power steering problems. The unusual noises can be caused by a slipping drive belt, which has become out of shape. Alternatively, it could be the steering pump, which is failing. If this is the case, you will hear strange noises when you turn corners. Listen to the sounds coming from the car to assess this.

Depending on your perspective, an off-center steering wheel can be a truly infuriating experience, all the more so when the car doesnt pull to either direction. Theres something about this condition that just seems to baffle the human mind; how can the car be going straight when the wheel is turned? But the reason for a steering wheel turn, and the subsequent fix, is actually pretty simple once you understand what went wrong.

Steering Basics

Your steering wheel connects to a steering column. At the end of that column is a gear called a pinion, and that pinion meshes onto matching teeth on top of a flat bar called a rack. When you turn the pinion, it pushes the rack to the left or the right. The ends of the rack connect to tie rods, which in turn connect to arms extending backward from the wheel hubs. On the tie rods youll find a threaded collar; turning it makes the tie rod longer or shorter, angling the wheel inward or outward. Of course, this describes only a rack-and-pinion system, but most steering systems are functionally identical where the steering linkage is concerned.

Rear Toe and Steering

Most cars also have a second bar running from side-to-side in the rear, and those that dont typically have some provision to turn the axle one direction or the other. While it may seem a bit strange, the rear axle and its tie rods are just as responsible for steering your car as the front. The difference is that the rear axle only turns the rear of the car. If your rear alignment settings -- via the tie rods or axle alignment -- are off, youll have to turn the wheel in the same direction as the rear tires to keep the car pointed down the road. This alone will cause your steering wheel off-center, because the car is actually going down the road slightly sideways.

Alignment Problems

An off-center steering wheel is, paradoxically, a pretty common complaint following a front-wheel alignment. During an alignment, the technician will adjust your front tie rods to whatever degree necessary to remove any pull on the steering wheel. In the course of doing so, hell end up changing the position of the wheels relative to the steering column just to keep them pointed in the same direction as the rear tires. While this does eliminate that sideways pull, itll also permanently cock your car sideways. This "off-tracking" or "dog-tracking" is dangerous because it changes your cars low and high-speed handling characteristics, and itll kill your fuel economy by exposing the broad side of your car to the wind.

Dialing Out the Turn

Since this is essentially a problem with rear wheel angle, you need to adjust that first. The simplest way is to take your car to an alignment shop and have them perform a four-wheel alignment. If youre doing it yourself -- which you shouldnt unless youve got the right equipment -- then you need to get the rear wheels pointed perfectly straight first. Then, youll need to start the engine, turn the wheel a couple of times to relieve pressure from the power steering system. Shut the car down with the wheel locked in a straight-ahead, 12-oclock position. Finally, adjust the front tie rods to get the wheels straight. At this point, the problem is essentially fixed and your car is once again pointed straight, but youre not quite done yet.

Setting the Toe

While it might sound odd, most cars arent going down the road with all four wheels pointed straight forward. Many have a certain degree of front or rear "toe." Toe-in means the front of the wheels point inward, or sort of cross-eyed. Toe-out means they point slightly outward. Different manufacturers and drivers per different degrees of toe-in or -out for a given car. Toe-in makes that axle more stable on the highway and under braking by causing the wheels to constantly try to turn toward each other. Toe-out causes that axle to change direction more quickly at the expense of stability. A zero-toe setting does nothing for directional stability either way, but is the hypothetical optimum for fuel economy. Setting toe is vital for your cars performance and safety, and its somewhat difficult to measure without the right equipment. So, unless you really know what youre doing, these sorts of alignment settings are best left to professionals.

Rack and pinion steering is used in many cars. Essentially, the steering wheel turns a round gear -- the pinion -- which in turn moves a straight bar with gear teeth -- the rack -- from side-to-side to turn the wheels. It is a simple arrangement, but it does have some disadvantages.

Leakage

Because of the simplicity of the system, rack and pinion steering requires fewer parts to function properly. However, this places a greater strain on the individual parts, and the wear can cause leakage, requiring replacement of the rack assembly.

Less Durability

When installed in a four-wheel-drive vehicle, rack and pinion steering can cause problems when driving off-road. While this simple system provides responsive handling on paved roads, the greater force required to turn the wheels on drastically uneven ground can cause it to wear out much more quickly.

Vibration

Its simpler construction and reduced number of parts help rack and pinion systems provide more road feel than other steering mechanisms. However, this more intimate connection with the road can also transfer more noise and vibration to the driver and passengers.

Removing a steering wheel from 1990 Chevrolet trucks requires a specialized pulling tool. You will need this puller because hammering on the shaft can cause damage. You might have to remove the steering wheel if you need to do repairs on the steering system or components in the dashboard or instrument cluster. Experienced home mechanics can do the job in a few simple steps.

Instructions

1

Pop the hood on the Chevy truck and disconnect the negative cable from the battery. Wait two to five minutes so residual power drains out of the truck. This is a safety precaution because you will be working with electrical components. Also, this will temporarily disable air bags, if the truck is equipped with them.

2

Pry up the horn pad with a screwdriver. You might want to use a screwdriver with the tip wrapped in tape so none of the screwdrivers edges cause any accidental damage.

3

Disconnect the horns grounding wire.

4

Remove the nut from the center of the steering wheel with a socket wrench.

5

Inspect the shaft of the steering wheel for any markings that denote position. If see any, mark the shaft yourself. It will help you reinstall the steering wheel correctly.

6

Fit the pulling tool at the center of the steering wheel. Turn it until the steering wheel becomes detached or can be pulled from from the shaft.

The power steering components on your Chevrolet Monte Carlos 350-cubic-inch V8 engine actually have very little to do with the engine itself. The power steering system uses power generated by the running engine to provide you with easy handling and steering. Without power steering, your car would be extremely difficult to steer or control.

Power Steering Pump

The power steering pump is a pump that supplies the hydraulic power for the power steering system. Without the power steering pump, the Monte Carlos power steering system will not work. The power steering pump takes the power generated by the pulleys and belts from the engine and converts it to compensate for the steering and assist you in turning and handling the vehicle. There is a reservoir on the power steering pump that holds the hydraulic power steering fluid.

Hoses

The power steering hoses allow the power steering fluid to travel. The hoses connect the power steering pump into the steering mechanisms themselves, normally the gearbox or power steering box, depending on the model of Monte Carlo you own. The power steering systems have been updated and improved since Chevrolet originally introduced the Monte Carlo in the 1970s.

Belt and Pulleys

The power to run the Monte Carlos power steering pump is generated by a belt and pulley system that turns power generated by the engine into the force that generates the hydraulic power for the steering system.

Oldsmobile installed an integral rack and pinion power steering system on the 1986 Cutlass Ciera. A belt-driven power steering pump mounted on the front of the 2.8-liter engine supplies hydraulic pressure. Over time, the power steering pump can become worn and cease to deliver sufficient pressure. Allowing the pump to run low on fluid can also damage or destroy the internal components of the pump. Replace damaged or worn pumps to restore the full function of the power steering system.

Instructions

1

Locate the blower case and motor inside the engine compartment on the passenger side firewall. Disconnect the electrical connector from the blower motor. Remove the blower motor ground terminal from the motor case, using a nut driver. Remove the blower motor retaining screws from the blower case, using a nut driver, and remove the blower assembly from the case.

2

Place the catch pan under the water pump area of the engine. Using a screwdriver, loosen the heater hose clamp at the water pump and then remove the hose from the pump nipple. Position the hose so that it will lose a minimum of coolant while remaining out of the way for the rest of the procedure.

3

Place the catch pan under the power steering pump. Remove the hydraulic lines from the pump, using a flare-nut wrench. Cap the lines with plastic caps or tape to minimize power steering fluid loss.

4

Loosen the front pump bracket-to-cylinder head bolts, using a ratchet and socket. Loosen the rear pump bracket adjuster nut, using a ratchet and socket. Push the bottom of the power steering pump toward the engine to loosen the pump drive belt. Remove the belt from the pump pulley. Finish removing the loosened bolts and nuts and then remove the pump from the engine.

5

Insert the smooth end of the threaded puller assembly into the center hole in the pulley. Install the split puller collar that most closely fits the size of the center boss on the pulley. Slide the outer collar in place over the split collar. Hold the bottom nut on the threaded puller in place with a wrench and turn the threaded puller clockwise by hand until it bottoms on the pump shaft. Turn the threaded puller using a ratchet and socket until the pulley separates from the pump shaft.

6

Remove the rear pump bracket and front pump bracket from the old pump, using a ratchet and socket. Install the front and rear pump brackets on the new pump. Tighten the rear pump bracket nuts to 35 foot-pounds, using a foot-pound torque wrench and socket. Tighten the front pump bracket bolts to 25 foot-pounds.

7

Place the pulley on the pump shaft. Thread the pulley installation tool into the threaded portion of the pump shaft. Install the washer and nut on the installation tool. Hold the top of the installation tool with a wrench and tighten the nut with another wrench until the tool bottoms out. Remove the tool and ensure that the outer edge of the pulley boss is flush with the end of the pump shaft.

8

Position the pump on the engine. Install the front pump bracket-to-cylinder bolts and the rear pump bracket adjuster nut and tighten only finger tight. Install the pump drive belt on the pump pulley. Pull the pump bottom away from the engine to tighten the belt and then tighten the rear pump bracket adjuster nut to 35 foot-pounds, using a foot-pound torque wrench and socket. Tighten the front bracket-to-cylinder head bolts to 25 foot-pounds.

9

Install the hydraulic lines on the power steering pump. Tighten them securely, using a flare-nut wrench.

10

Install the heater hose on the water pump. Tighten the hose clamp securely, using a screwdriver.

11

Install the blower assembly in the blower case. Install the blower motor mounting screws and the blower motor ground terminal, using a nut-driver. Connect the blower motor electrical connector.

12

Use a floor jack to raise the front of the vehicle. Support the vehicle securely with two jack stands. Chock the rear wheels.

13

Turn the steering wheel fully to the left steering stop. Add Dexron II ATF to the power steering pump reservoir up to the Full Cold mark on the dipstick and leave the cap off the pump. Have a helper turn the steering wheel from lock to lock at least 20 times with the engine off while you observe the fluid in the reservoir for bubbles. Tighten the pump connections and check for leaks if bubbles are present. Maintain the fluid level in the reservoir during this procedure and start over after tightening the fittings if a leak is discovered. Add fluid up to the Full Cold mark and install the cap. Center the wheels and lower the vehicle.

14

Start the engine and run it for two minutes. Turn the steering wheel from lock to lock and verify that the operation is smooth and there is no groaning or whining noise at the pump during operation. Check the system connections for leaks. Turn the engine off. Check and top off the fluid level in the reservoir.

15

Remove the radiator pressure cap from the radiator and top off the coolant level in the radiator. Make certain the coolant level is up to the Full Cold mark in the coolant overflow reservoir.

16

Start the engine. Turn the passenger compartment heater controls to the On position and allow the engine to warm up to full operating temperature. Turn the engine off. Allow the engine to cool. Check the coolant level in the coolant overflow reservoir and, if necessary, add coolant to bring it up to the Full Hot mark.