So Fix it

The Ford 5.4l engine first debuted in the newly redesigned 1997 F-150. Upon introduction, the engine was primarily used as a truck engine. It has since debuted as a "performance" engine in the North American and Australian markets.

Power

The 5.4l engine is among Fords most powerful. Early versions were rolled out in Fords pickup truck line. These engines produced between 255 and 260 horsepower. Today, a version used in the Ford Shelby GT 500 produces 550 hp and 510 foot pounds of torque.

Physical Specifications

The 5.4l engine has a bore diameter of 90.2 mm, while featuring a stroke of 105.8 mm. The engine has a 169.1 mm connecting rod. This combination achieves a 1.60:1 rod-to-stroke ratio.

Versatility

The highly versatile engine is available in two-, three- and four-valve per cylinder designs. The four-valve engine can also be super-charged (use of a compressor to provide more air flow) to produce extra power. These supercharged engines have been used to power Fords top-end performers, such as the Shelby GT 500 and Ford GT.

The Ford 5.4-liter engine is a V-8 engine with aluminum cylinder heads. It appears in various Ford vehicles made since 1997, such as the F-Series of pickup trucks. The 5.4-liter engine has a pair of cylinder heads, one on each side of the engine. The head gasket lies between the cylinder head and the engine block, and makes a tight seal between the two components. The procedure for replacing the cylinder head gaskets is generally the same for both gaskets.

Instructions

1

Evacuate the air-conditioning system with the appropriate evacuating equipment. This step requires a mechanic licensed by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA).

2

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to prevent the engine from starting during the head gasket replacement. Remove the covers for the cylinder head, and disconnect the intake manifold from the engine block. Detach the timing chains from their sprockets, and remove both exhaust manifolds from the engine block.

3

Remove the retaining bolts from the heater hose on the engine block with a socket wrench. Release the hose clamp by squeezing it together and sliding it down the hose. Detach the hose from the engine block. Detach any additional cables, electrical connectors and hoses that restrict your access to the cylinder head.

4

Disconnect the mounting bolts from the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Detach the cylinder head from the engine block. Remove the head gasket from the engine block and discard it. Remove any traces of the gasket from the cylinder head and engine block with a gasket scraper.

5

Turn the crankshaft clockwise by hand so that the key way on the crankshaft is in the 12 oclock position. Place the new gasket for the cylinder head over the dowel pins on the engine block. Mount the cylinder head over the dowel pins, so that the head is on top of the gasket.

6

Install new mounting bolts to the cylinder head by hand. Tighten the bolts to 30 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Tighten the mounting bolts for the cylinder head an additional 85 to 95 degrees on the second pass. Tighten the mounting bolts an additional 85 to 95 degrees on the third pass.

7

Connect the heater hose to the cylinder head, and fasten its retaining bolts with a socket wrench. Slide the hose clamp in place to secure the hose. Attach the exhaust manifolds to the engine block, and mount the timing chains to their sprockets. Connect the intake manifold to the engine block.

8

Attach the covers for the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Connect all additional electrical connectors, cables and hoses you removed to obtain access to the cylinder head.

9

Recharge the air-conditioning system with the appropriate equipment. This step requires a mechanic licensed by the EPA.

10

Fill the engine oil and coolant to their proper levels. Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Start the engine and check for fluid leaks.

The Cummins B Series of engines are diesel engines for trucks and industrial applications. The six-cylinder, 5.9-liter version has appeared in Dodge Ram trucks since 1989. These engines are turbocharged and require an effective cooling system to prevent the engine from overheating. The water pump in a Cummins 5.9-liter diesel engine is on the front of the engine, below the cooling fan. The replacement of the water pump in this engine requires the removal of additional components.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the negative terminal of both batteries with a socket wrench. Place a drain pan under the radiator drain and remove the drain plug. Wait for the coolant to drain from the radiator and replace the drain plug.

2

Detach the electrical connectors from the air temperature sensor and the mass airflow sensor if your vehicle is so equipped. Detach the inlet tube for the turbocharger and remove the housing for the air filter with a socket wrench. Remove the alternator assembly.

3

Rotate the tensioner assembly clockwise with a long-handled wrench to relieve the tension on the accessory drive belt, then disconnect the belt. Remove the mounting bolts for the water pump with a socket wrench and disconnect the water pump from the engine. Remove and discard the O-ring from the water pump.

4

Install a new O-ring onto its mounting groove on the water pump. Install the water pump so that the weep hole on the water pump faces down. Torque the mounting bolts for the water pump to 18 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

5

Install the accessory drive belt with a long-handled wrench. Connect the alternator assembly and torque its mounting bolts to 30 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Install the air filter housing and attach the inlet tube for the turbocharger. Attach the electrical connectors to the air temperature sensor and mass airflow sensor.

6

Refill the radiator with coolant and connect the cables to the negative battery terminals with a socket wrench. Start the engine and allow it to warm up. Check and correct any coolant leaks.

When it comes to getting power to the pavement, GMs 10-bolt, 8.5-inch rear end with Positraction is a hero. Like Superman in street clothes, however, it can be hard to identify this beefy unit among its weaker cousins, the 10-bolt, 8.2-inch with open differential.



GM built countless thousands of both types of 10-bolts from 1970 to 1994. This means you can typically find one suitable for your muscle car dirt-cheap at your local junkyard. Learn how to separate this strong man from the wimps.

Instructions

1

Wipe any grease and other debris off the gear casing with a rag to ensure you can see all of its features clearly.

2

Count to make sure there are 10 bolts arranged equally around the outer perimeter of the gear casing, similar to the numbers on a clock.

3

Locate two lugs, or ears, extending out from the bottom of the gear casing approximately in the 4 oclock and 8 oclock position. This will firmly identify the unit as having come with Positraction from the factory.

4

Measure the gear casing horizontally, end to end, across its widest point. The measurement will be either 10 5/8 (10.625) inches or 11 inches, depending on the year it was made.

5

Look for a bulge running vertically down the center of the gear casing. Most of the 10-inch units youre looking for will have this.

6

Place your 1.25-inch socket over the pinion nut. If it fits, its the 10-bolt, 8.5-inch unit.

7

Inspect the entire gear case and center section thoroughly to make sure there are no cracks or other damage that might compromise the units integrity.

The Chrysler Concorde, also known as the sister car to the more popular Dodge Intrepid, came from the factory with two V-6 engine options; a 2.7-liter engine and a more-powerful 3.5-liter engine. Of the two engines, the 3.5-liter engine was noted for its increased reliability over the smaller engine, which was prone to oil sludge problems. To help control and monitor the engine temperature, the 3.5-liter engine contains a coolant temperature sensor, located on the thermostat housing at the front of the engine.

Instructions

1

Start the engine and allow it warm to operating temperature, which is 200-degrees Fahrenheit.

2

Locate the coolant temperature sensor on the top of the thermostat housing. Its mounted vertically and has two wires protruding from its base.

3

Disconnect the coolant temperature sensors two-wire electrical connector. Measure the resistance across the sensors two terminals with a digital multimeter; the specified value is 700 to 1,000 Ohms.

4

Let the engine cool down for three to four hours until the coolant is at room temperature. Measure the resistance again across the terminals with a digital multimeter. The resistance at 70-degrees Fahrenheit should be between 7,000 and 13,000 Ohms. If the resistance falls outside either of the hot or cold values, the sensor must be replaced.

5

Measure the resistance across the pin terminals on the sensors electrical connector. If the resistance is greater than 1 Ohm, replace the sensors connector.