So Fix it

A damper bolt is a small bolt on the crank assembly of a car which helps facilitate rotating of the crank assembly and ensures your car is operating properly. The damper bolts hold the damper in place, with the damper attached to the motor of a car. Even if you installed your damper bolts tightly and turned them down all the way, they may still vibrate. It is important to fix the vibrating on the bolts to ensure your car is safe to drive.

Instructions

1

Pop the hood of your car and locate the serpentine belt, a single, continuous belt used to drive various devices in the car. Attach a 13mm wrench to the tensioner pulley on the inside of the belt and rotate it downwards to pull off the belt.

2

Pull the tensioner pulley out away from the car and set it aside so you can put it back on later once you have properly tightened the damper down in place. Locate the damper underneath where the tensioner pulley was and find the three bolts holding it in place.

3

Inspect all of the bolts and determine which ones are loose. Match up the size of the bolts with a wrench. The bolts will likely be 13mm so use the same wrench you used to remove the tensioner pulley and tighten down the damper bolts.

4

Slide the wrench over the top of the loose bolt and turn it clockwise to tighten it down in place. Continue turning until the bolt is as tight as you can get it by hand. Repeat the process for all of the other bolts just to verify they have been tightened down enough.

5

Slide the tensioner pulley back in place and tighten it down with the wrench. Turn on the car and test out the damper bolts to verify they are not vibrating while the car is running.

An engine is like lightning in a bottle, controlled chaos at its best. In addition to expanding gases, the engines combustion events produce a number of undesirable side effects. Exploding gasoline creates a shockwave that we experience as sound, but which the engine experiences as minute vibrations that work their way down through the pistons, rods and crankshaft. When combined with combustion events that are slightly out of sync, these vibrations can cause the crankshaft to resonate, deform and snap. The harmonic balancer absorbs these vibrations using a rubber ring surrounded by another heavy metal ring. The bolt that secures it can be difficult to remove, but not if you know a few tricks before going in.

Instructions

1

Raise the front of the car using a floor jack and secure it with a couple of jack stands. Start the engine and warm it to its highest operating temperature, or until the cooling fans kick on. Turn the engine off. Youll need to move fairly quickly from here on out, so make sure that you plan ahead and have the appropriate tools on hand. Have the appropriately-sized sockets fitted to several ratchets beforehand so you dont have to waste time hunting for the correct-size sockets.

2

Remove all of the belts that connect the crankshaft pulley to the engine accessories. If you have an older V-belt setup, loosen the alternator bolts, rotate the alternator downward and pull the belts off. If you have a serpentine belt, fit a socket or wrench to the belt tensioner and apply clockwise pressure to loosen the belt. You dont necessarily need to remove it, but it might make the job easier.

3

Fit the breaker bar over the end of your 1/2-inch drive ratchet, which youve already fitted with a three-inch extension and a socket sized to the balancer bolt. Hold a spray-can of keyboard dust remover upside down, and put the tip of the spray-tube right over the bolt head. Press the trigger on the can and spray the bolt head for about 20 seconds. The propellant in the can will act as a rigerant, causing the bolt to frost over. As the bolt cools, its metal will contract and will pull away from the hot crankshaft.

4

Fit the socket, ratchet and breaker bar to the bolt-head and give it a sharp yank. If the bolt does not come loose or the crankshaft turns, then quickly lift the breaker bar up to the bottom of the frame and secure it there with some duct tape. Make sure its not sitting on anything that will break or bend.

5

Crawl out from under the car and have an assistant turn the ignition key to bump the starter. Do not start the car, and do not lie under the car while your assistant bumps the starter. If the ratchet comes loose or something goes wrong, you could be seriously injured. If all goes according to plan, the ratchet will brace the bolt while the starter turns the crankshaft around it.

Tightening bolts to the proper torque is extremely important. Bolts that are not tightened enough can fail to provide the necessary support and stability, and bolts that are tightened too much can actually snap unexpectedly, particularly when you apply additional pressure. There are several factors to consider when calculating bolt torque specs, including the grade, size and purpose of the bolt, and the fastener that is catching it. If a bolt should be tightened to 2,000 inch-pounds of torque, but the fastener can only withstand 1,000 inch-pounds, there is a good chance the fastener will bend or break as the bolt is tightened.

Types of Stainless Steel

The two main types of steel used in stainless steel bolts are 18-8 stainless steel and 316 stainless steel. Stainless steel given an 18-8 designation consists of approximately 18 percent chromium and 8 percent nickel. The remainder of the steel comprises several other elements and compounds, including manganese, phosphorus, sulfur, silicon and chromium. Carbon is held to a maximum of 0.08 percent in both basic types of stainless steel. The term 18-8 applies to several similar grades of steel, including types 302, 303, 304, 305 and 384. These types of stainless steel represent the "basic alloy," and there is little difference between them in terms of strength or resistance to corrosion. Type 316 stainless steel is similar to 18-8 stainless steel except that it is more resistant to corrosion because there are higher levels of molybdenum in it. Type 316 stainless steel is often used in marine situations because it is particularly more resistant to corrosion caused by salt water.

Size, Thread Count and Other Factors

In addition to the grade of stainless steel the bolt is composed of, several other factors, such as the length of the bolt, the bolts thread count, the job that the bolt is being used for, the fastener the bolt is being applied to, any plating the bolt has been coated in and whether or not the bolt is clean, dry or lubricated can affect the the amount of torque that should be applied to a bolt. For instance, a 5/16 bolt with 24 threads per inch requires more torque than a 1/4 inch bolt with 28 threads per inch. The Rask Cycle website recommends lubricating motorcycle bolts with motor oil to reduce the torque by 15 percent to 25; to reduce torque by 50 percent, use a Teflon dry film or a Cetyl alcohol dry wax.

Bolt Torque Specs

Taking the above factors into consideration, the following specs provide a good ball-park range for the perred fastening torque of several bolts. The torque is given in inch-pounds and is intended for standard bolts (without plating) that are dry at the time of tightening.

You should tighten bolts that are 1/4 of an inch long and made of 18-8 stainless should to 75.2 inch-pounds if they have 20 threads per inch and to 94 inch-pounds if they have 28 threads per inch. Tighten bolts of the same size and thread count that are made of 316 stainless steel to 78.8 inch-pounds and 99.0 inch-pounds, respectively.

Tighten bolts that are 3/4 of an inch long and made of 18-8 stainless steel to 1,530 inch-pounds if they have 10 threads per inch and to 1,490 inch-pounds if they have 16 threads per inch. With bolts of the same size and thread count that are made of 316 stainless steel, tighten to 1,582 inch-pounds and 1,588 inch-pounds, respectively.

Tighten one inch long bolts that are made of 18-8 stainless steel to 3,440 inch-pounds if they have 8 threads per inch and to 3,110 inch-pounds if they have 14 threads per inch. Bolts of the same size and thread count that are made of 316 stainless steel should be tightened to 3,595 inch-pounds and 3,250 inch-pounds, respectively.

Stainless steel bolts are popular fasteners because of their strength and resistance to corrosion. While in many households bolts are tightened until they feel tight enough, industries and car mechanics require specific torque values for bolts to ensure that they are tightened enough. Depending on the bolt size, construction, fabric, and lubrication, torque specifications vary from bolt to bolt and situation to situation, and should be followed precisely.

Sizes and Threads

Bolts are identified by their sizes and threads. Screws can be as small as the number one screw, which is 1/16 of an inch or as large as the number 24, which is 3/8 of an inch for the most common screw sizes. Their threads are listed by distance between the threads and number per screw, and are listed like this: 1/4 x 20, meaning that the screw has a diameter of 1/4 of an inch and has 20 threads per inch.

Types

Stainless steel bolts come in numerous types, the most common of which are called 18-8 and 316. The 18-8 stainless steel bolt is composed of about 18 percent chromium and 8 percent nickel. These bolts are extremely corrosion resistant. The 316 stainless steel bolt, designed for industrial environments, has a higher nickel content and is austenitic (tempered for strength at low temperatures) and non-magnetic. These stainless steel bolts hold up under extreme stress and are used in heavy industry and as a part of surgical implants for humans and animals.

Torque Specifications

The 2-56 bolts are two inches in diameter with 56 threads per inch, torque to 2.5 inch-pounds for 18-8 stainless steel and to 2.6 inch-pounds for 316 stainless steel. Bolts that are 4 inches in diameter and have 40 threads per inch require 5.2 inch-pounds of torque if they are 18-8 stainless steel and 5.5 inch-pounds of torque if they are 316 stainless steel. For 18-8 stainless steel bolts with a size of 6-32, torque to 9.6 inch-pounds; for 316 stainless steel bolts of the same size, torque to 10.0 inch-pounds. The 1-14 bolts made of 18-8 stainless steel torque to 3110 inch-pounds, and those made of 316 stainless steel torque to 3250 inch-pounds.

Variations

These and other torque specifications for bolts are a starting point, but variation exists depending on the type and amount of lubrication used. If youd like to calculate your own torque, you can apply the following formula: Torque = 1.33 times the coefficient of friction times the diameter times the necessary preload, or T = K x U x D x P. Use 0.2 as the coefficient of friction for dry, or un-lubed fasteners and 0.09 for lubed ones. These are not precise values, but are acceptable averages.

To determine preload, take the established ultimate strength of your fastener (this information will be available at your hardware store), and multiply it by 2/3 to determine yield strength. Multiply the bolts thread area by the full yield strength and 2/3 to determine its preload. Once youve filled in these values, you can determine your bolts required torque.

When it comes to getting power to the pavement, GMs 10-bolt, 8.5-inch rear end with Positraction is a hero. Like Superman in street clothes, however, it can be hard to identify this beefy unit among its weaker cousins, the 10-bolt, 8.2-inch with open differential.



GM built countless thousands of both types of 10-bolts from 1970 to 1994. This means you can typically find one suitable for your muscle car dirt-cheap at your local junkyard. Learn how to separate this strong man from the wimps.

Instructions

1

Wipe any grease and other debris off the gear casing with a rag to ensure you can see all of its features clearly.

2

Count to make sure there are 10 bolts arranged equally around the outer perimeter of the gear casing, similar to the numbers on a clock.

3

Locate two lugs, or ears, extending out from the bottom of the gear casing approximately in the 4 oclock and 8 oclock position. This will firmly identify the unit as having come with Positraction from the factory.

4

Measure the gear casing horizontally, end to end, across its widest point. The measurement will be either 10 5/8 (10.625) inches or 11 inches, depending on the year it was made.

5

Look for a bulge running vertically down the center of the gear casing. Most of the 10-inch units youre looking for will have this.

6

Place your 1.25-inch socket over the pinion nut. If it fits, its the 10-bolt, 8.5-inch unit.

7

Inspect the entire gear case and center section thoroughly to make sure there are no cracks or other damage that might compromise the units integrity.

When Toyota vehicles with five-speed transmissions are headed for the junkyard, owners can save money by replacing their cars engine. Engine manufacturers call the process "vehicle repowering" and owners add years to the life of the vehicle when they opt for repowering over individual engine repairs. Some automotive shops specialize in acquiring replacement Toyota engines from domestic and international locations. The kits come with all the equipment needed to bolt the engine onto the vehicle.

1990 to 1993 Celica

The Celica GT-fourth generation 5/all-trac 3S-grand turismo turbo engine is the all-wheel drive, five-speed transmission engine for Celicas manufactured between 1990 and 1993. The four-cylinder, 16-valve engine produced by Toyota weighs 600 lbs. with 225 horsepower at 6000 rpm. The engine produces 200 ft.-lbs. of torque at 3200 rpm. Redline levels occur at 8000 rpm. JDM Engine Depot supplies the engine for a suggested retail price of $1,099 (as of 2011). Engine heads, a power steering pump and all-wheel drive manual transmission are included with the engine.

1986 to 1989 Celica

Five-speed-transmission Celica vehicles manufactured between 1986 and 1989 are compatible with the Celica grand turismo-fourth generation 4/all-trac 3S-grand turismo turbo engine. The four-cylinder, all-wheel drive, 16-valve engine manufactured by Toyota weighs 600 lbs. The unit is capable of 190 horsepower at 6000 rpm and 190 ft.-lbs. of torque at 3200 rpm. Redline levels occur at 8000 rpm. The engine is available through JDM Engine Depot at a suggested retail price of $999 (as of 2011). Complete engine heads, flywheels, a wiring harness and an all-wheel-drive manual transmission are included with the engine.

1994 to 1999 MR2

The MR2 third-generation 3S-grand turismo turbo engine is compatible with the MR2 rear-wheel drive sports car manufactured by Toyota between 1994 and 1999. The four-cylinder, 16-valve engine is capable of 225 horsepower at 6000 rpm and 200 ft.-lbs. of torque at 3200 rpm. Redline levels occur at 8000 rpm. Total weight of the all-wheel drive, five-speed transmission engine is 600 lbs. JDM Engine Depot provides the engine at a suggested retail price of $1,999 (as of 2011). Engine heads, a non-limited slip differential transmission and fuel rails are included with the engine.

1991 to 1993 MR2

The MR2 3S-grand turismo turbo engine is compatible with second generation MR2 front-wheel drive sports cars manufactured by Toyota between 1991 and 1993. The four-cylinder, 16-valve engine is capable of 220 horsepower at 6000 rpm and 200 ft.-lbs. of torque at 3000 rpm. Redline levels occur at 8000 rpm. Total weight of the five-speed transmission engine is 600 lbs. JDM Engine Depot supplies the engine at a suggested retail price of $1,749 (as of 2011). The engine kit includes complete heads, sensors and distributor.