So Fix it

Tightening bolts to the proper torque is extremely important. Bolts that are not tightened enough can fail to provide the necessary support and stability, and bolts that are tightened too much can actually snap unexpectedly, particularly when you apply additional pressure. There are several factors to consider when calculating bolt torque specs, including the grade, size and purpose of the bolt, and the fastener that is catching it. If a bolt should be tightened to 2,000 inch-pounds of torque, but the fastener can only withstand 1,000 inch-pounds, there is a good chance the fastener will bend or break as the bolt is tightened.

Types of Stainless Steel

The two main types of steel used in stainless steel bolts are 18-8 stainless steel and 316 stainless steel. Stainless steel given an 18-8 designation consists of approximately 18 percent chromium and 8 percent nickel. The remainder of the steel comprises several other elements and compounds, including manganese, phosphorus, sulfur, silicon and chromium. Carbon is held to a maximum of 0.08 percent in both basic types of stainless steel. The term 18-8 applies to several similar grades of steel, including types 302, 303, 304, 305 and 384. These types of stainless steel represent the "basic alloy," and there is little difference between them in terms of strength or resistance to corrosion. Type 316 stainless steel is similar to 18-8 stainless steel except that it is more resistant to corrosion because there are higher levels of molybdenum in it. Type 316 stainless steel is often used in marine situations because it is particularly more resistant to corrosion caused by salt water.

Size, Thread Count and Other Factors

In addition to the grade of stainless steel the bolt is composed of, several other factors, such as the length of the bolt, the bolts thread count, the job that the bolt is being used for, the fastener the bolt is being applied to, any plating the bolt has been coated in and whether or not the bolt is clean, dry or lubricated can affect the the amount of torque that should be applied to a bolt. For instance, a 5/16 bolt with 24 threads per inch requires more torque than a 1/4 inch bolt with 28 threads per inch. The Rask Cycle website recommends lubricating motorcycle bolts with motor oil to reduce the torque by 15 percent to 25; to reduce torque by 50 percent, use a Teflon dry film or a Cetyl alcohol dry wax.

Bolt Torque Specs

Taking the above factors into consideration, the following specs provide a good ball-park range for the perred fastening torque of several bolts. The torque is given in inch-pounds and is intended for standard bolts (without plating) that are dry at the time of tightening.

You should tighten bolts that are 1/4 of an inch long and made of 18-8 stainless should to 75.2 inch-pounds if they have 20 threads per inch and to 94 inch-pounds if they have 28 threads per inch. Tighten bolts of the same size and thread count that are made of 316 stainless steel to 78.8 inch-pounds and 99.0 inch-pounds, respectively.

Tighten bolts that are 3/4 of an inch long and made of 18-8 stainless steel to 1,530 inch-pounds if they have 10 threads per inch and to 1,490 inch-pounds if they have 16 threads per inch. With bolts of the same size and thread count that are made of 316 stainless steel, tighten to 1,582 inch-pounds and 1,588 inch-pounds, respectively.

Tighten one inch long bolts that are made of 18-8 stainless steel to 3,440 inch-pounds if they have 8 threads per inch and to 3,110 inch-pounds if they have 14 threads per inch. Bolts of the same size and thread count that are made of 316 stainless steel should be tightened to 3,595 inch-pounds and 3,250 inch-pounds, respectively.

To bend steel pipe, you need to apply heat evenly to the entire area that you need to bend. The main problem with bending pipe without a tubing bender is kinking the pipe. If the pipe kinks, it will lose its structural integrity. The kink will restrict the flow of water if it is a water pipe; if it is steel pipe being used as electrical conduit, you will have a problem fishing the wires past the kink. To avoid kinking the steel pipe, you must support the walls of the pipe while you perform the bend.

Instructions

1

Cover one end of the steel pipe with two layers of duct tape. Secure the loose ends of the duct tape with more tape.

2

Stand the pipe on end, with the taped end resting on the floor, and fill the first 12 inches of the steel pipe with damp sand.

3

Pack the damp sand with the tamping rod and add more sand to the steel pipe. Continue the process of filling and packing the sand in the steel pipe until the entire length of pipe is filled with damp sand.

4

Cover the open end of the steel pipe with duct tape to contain the sand within the steel pipe.

5

Secure the sand-filled steel pipe in the vise, with the area of the steel pipe you need to bend extending out past the end of the vise.

6

Light the oxy-acetylene torch and set the torch to burn a neutral flame. A neutral flame will have a blue exterior flame with a short bright blue interior flame that does not emit any black soot.

7

Evenly heat the entire area that you need to bend by running the neutral flame of the oxy-acetylene torch around the entire circumference of the steel pipe until it emits a low orange glow.

8

Apply pressure to the end of the steel pipe and start bending the steel pipe; keep applying heat to the bend area while you are bending the steel pipe.

9

Allow the steel pipe to cool and then remove the steel pipe from the vise.

10

Remove the duct tape from both ends of the steel pipe and tap one end of the steel pipe on the ground to remove the tamped sand from the steel pipe.

11

Use the water hose to run water through the steel pipe to remove any sand that remains in the steel pipe.

12

Wipe the pipe dry with a clean rag.

The bladed cutting tools used to cut mild steel do not have the ability to cut through hardened steel. The problem results from the hardened steels having a harder structure than the cutting blade. This results in the teeth stripping from the blade and its losing its ability to cut. One cutting method uses a hand tool equipped with a nonmetallic blade to overcome the issue of blade dulling. This reduces the amount of time and material needed to produce the cut.

Instructions

1

Clear all flammable debris from the work area. Set a fire extinguisher near a vise. Secure a piece of hardened steel in the jaws of the vise. Ensure that the cut area of the steel sits beyond the end of the vise jaws.

2

Attach an abrasive cutting disk to an angle grinder. Don a pair of safety glasses, a face shield and a pair of sturdy leather gloves.

3

Set the edge of the abrasive cutting disk 1/8 inch from the surface of the hardened steel. Press the trigger of the angle grinder. Lower the spinning grinding disk to the surface of the hardened steel. Push the grinder along the hardened steel without placing excessive downward pressure on the grinding disk. Move the grinder back and forth along the steel until you complete the cut.

4

Allow the cut area to cool for 10 minutes. Remove the cut hardened steel from the vise.

Vehicle fuel systems operate under high pressure. Steel fuel lines keep high-pressure fuel contained on route between the fuel tank and the fuel delivery system. Correctly installing steel fuel lines entails producing straight cuts on the ends of the line. This ensures the lines will seat properly in the compression fitting connecting two pieces of line or connecting the line to fuel system components. Improperly cut fuel lines create a situation where fuel can escape from a crooked edge.

Instructions

1

Mark the cut location on a piece of steel fuel line with a piece of soapstone.

2

Open the jaws of a tubing cutter by turning the lower knob counterclockwise. Stop turning the knob when the distance between the top rollers and the bottom cutting blade allows enough room for the steel fuel line.

3

Slide the fuel line in the open jaws of the tubing cutter. Align the cut mark with the center of the bottom cutting blade. Turn the cutter knob clockwise until the blade contacts the surface of the tube. Turn the knob clockwise a quarter turn to apply pressure to the line.

4

Spin the tubing cutter around the fuel line for two revolutions. Turn the knob clockwise a half turn. Spin the cutter an additional two revolutions. Continue tightening and spinning the tubing cutter until it cuts through the steel fuel line.

5

Place the tapered end of the burr remover -- located on the back face of the tubing cutter -- inside the cut end of the fuel line. Apply pressure toward the fuel line. Turn the tubing cutter to clear the burr from inside the fuel line.