So Fix it

Auto scanners are devices used to read codes to establish a cars defects. These devices interpret codes and diagnose the problem, enabling the car owner to fix the car or to look for an automobile dealer to do it. You can either use the auto scanner directly by connecting it to the car or use it on a laptop to display the results of the diagnosis.

Instructions

1

Acquire knowledge of auto scanners, which is very vital since it enables you to not only operate it successfully but also identify its various functionality purposes. Technical terms are used to differentiate the various parts of the auto scanner, and a base of knowledge of the device will be of tremendous help. Once you have become familiarized with the various terms and parts of the auto scanner, you can proceed with comparison of the different auto scanners.

2

Explore in detail the specific requirements that aid the working of an auto scanner. Most of these auto scanners require that the car is computer-enabled so as to be able to identify the needs that go along with them. When you have become familiarized with the various models, then you can identify the auto scanner that best suits your car. These auto scanners also have their own compatibility issues and may work best on vehicles best suited for their functionality.

3

Investigate the price points for the different auto scanners. Then decide on which brand and model you need. Ensure that you make a wise choice, always keeping in mind the essentials and also the compatibility of the car and the scanner. If you are not able to purchase a certain model, you can go for less costly scanners of standard quality.

4

Ensure that you have sufficient information about how the different auto scanners are maintained and the costs of maintenance.

Most people worry more about their engine and transmission problems than they do about their vehicles alignment. However, consideration should be given to the fact that alignment problems can compromise the vehicles traction and even the ability of the driver to steer safely and avoid accidents. There are three basic angles of alignment to address these issues. Since the objective of a wheel alignment is to ensure a proper relationship between the wheels themselves, as well as from the wheels to the vehicle and the road, it follows that the faster a vehicle is going, the more critical these adjustments become.

Toe

Toe alignment can best be explained by a view of the wheels from above. When both front wheels are exactly parallel to one another, with the distance between the front and rear of each wheel being the same, that is erred to as "zero toe" and perfect, in theory. As a vehicle is driven, the normal play in the steering and suspension linkages can change this alignment, depending on whether the vehicle is turning, braking or accelerating. It is for this reason that a slight degree "toe in" or "toe out" is often used to compensate for both rolling resistance, as well as the wear and tear of suspension components. Excessive "toe in" or "toe out" will result in uneven tire wear, due to the edges of the tire scrubbing the surface, as well as a steering pull to one side or the other under certain circumstances.

Camber

Camber ers to the position of the wheels as seen from the front of the vehicle. "zero camber" would be the position in which the front wheels were exactly perpendicular to the road. "Negative camber" is when the top of the wheels are tilted in toward each other and "positive camber" is when the top of the wheels point outward. Uneven road surfaces such as bumps and dips, as well as the movement of the suspension will cause changes in the degree of camber. Depending on the design of the vehicles suspension, the alignment specifications may allow an additional degree of positive or negative camber to compensate for this, just as when dealing with toe alignment. Both excessive tire wear and steering pull are often the results of improper camber alignment.

Caster

Caster alignment is best understood by viewing the angle of forward or rearward tilt of the steering axis from the side. "Positive caster" would be to the rear and "negative caster" would be to the front. Caster is often ignored, due to the fact that it has the least effect on tire wear. It has more to do with the stability of the steering, the effort required to steer and the returnability of the steering wheel to its center position. Positive caster is usually perred, for ease of steering return and stability. It is worth noting, however, that a difference greater than half a degree of caster from side to side can cause a vehicle to lead to the side with the least caster. Wear and tear and ride height are both factors that can affect caster and road crown can often be compensated for with slightly more positive caster on the left side.

Additional Factors

Consider that anything that creates uneven resistance or friction can cause both uneven tire wear and crooked steering. A good example of this is underinflated tires, which can bulge up on the sides, causing both of these conditions. A frozen brake caliper on one side can also cause a pull to that side. Any loose or worn steering parts, such as steering rack mounts, or suspension parts like tie rod ends can contribute to similar conditions as well. Remember that checking all of these things first to make sure that they are in proper working order will prevent further problems down the road.

Many different tools are necessary for efficient auto upholstery repair. The exact tools youll need can depend on the job itself, since different tools are needed for replacing door upholstery versus changing the fabric on a whole full backseat. Many of these tools come in sets or packs for the do-it-yourselfer, but individual tools can be bought separately, as well.

Upholstery Remover

Upholstery removers are manufactured to be used on doors, and the regular upholstery on the seats themselves. This tool looks like a screwdriver, with an open "U" shape at the end instead of a flat end. The upholstery remover can be used for undoing stitches, and also for dealing with upholstery designs that have hog rings (essentially a thin piece of metal) where the stitching is tightened up. Car door upholstery removers are designed to specifically deal with the panels and other design issues unique to doors.

Upholstery Tucking Tool

Anyone looking to install new upholstery while repairing or restoring an old vehicle must acquire the right upholstery tucking tools to get the job done. These tools are designed specifically for taking new upholstery cuts and tucking the upholstery tightly in behind panels. These tools look a lot like special ice scrapers for car windows, but are designed to tighten and tuck away the upholstery so the repaired seats or door panels look like new.

Upholstery Clip Pliers

A major part of repairing or restoring upholstery is taking care of the upholstery clips, especially when dealing with the door panels. Upholstery clip pliers allow individuals to remove panel clips without damaging them, which makes full restoration much easier. This tool allows the undamaged panel clips to be used after the new upholstery is put in, so the panels are all completely restored.

Nearly each vehicle being produced today comes equipped with automatic power windows. Wires, a switch and motor are the basic components found in auto window systems. However, there are still a variety of different roll-up styles used to raise and lower the windows in automobiles.

Scissor Roll-Up

Some vehicles have power windows with a scissor linkage that has a cranking device which allows windows to be raised and lowered. This type of roll-up system is prone to issues with rust. It can be jammed, preventing the window from going up and down.

Plastic Roll-Up

Either a plastic strip or a plastic chain is used to raise and lower the windows in some power window systems. Cold weather can affect these types of systems as the plastic drive in the window becomes weak and breaks, preventing the window from moving. The plastic strip can be replaced to counter this issue.

Steel Roll-Up

Steel cable is used in some auto window systems to raise and lower the vehicles windows. Although made of steel, cables are known to break in these types of systems as well. When windows fail to roll up in steel cable systems, it is often due to the window being off track within the vehicles door.

If you have bought or are about to buy a used car, its in your interests to find out as much about the vehicles history as you can. Its impossible to be completely sure of what youre paying for when you buy a second hand car, but if you can piece together as much of the cars service history and records as you can, youll at least know if theres been any serious issues such as a major collision or mileage fraud.

Instructions

1

Ask the dealership or individual youre buying the car from if they have the service history of the vehicle. Professional dealers should be able to provide you with this as a matter of course. If youre buying the car from an individual seller, ask if they have its manual as this will often contain its records.

2

Contact the manufacturer of the car with the vehicle identification number. You might find this in the corner of the dashboard below the windshield, on the inside panel of one of the doors or on the chassis underneath the hood. Most manufacturers should be able to provide you with the cars records, especially if its been serviced by their technicians.

3

Run a Car Fax search. Car Fax works in a similar fashion to a credit reference agency with background information on cars. Youll need the vehicle identification number and it will cost you $34.99, to access the records of one car, as of November 2010. Car Fax has information on all cars and light trucks manufactured after 1981.

The circuit of refrigerant flowing through a vehicle is made possible largely because of the hard work of the air conditioning (AC) compressor. It not only pumps refrigerant throughout a vehicles AC system but pressurizes it as well. Having information on diagnosing compressor issues can be beneficial to vehicle owners.

Lubricant Diagnosis

An auto AC compressor consists of moving parts which need adequate lubrication to function properly. Leaks allow lubricants to escape which, in turn, is dangerous for the life of the compressor. Electric leak detectors are available and can assist with locating these leaks.

Pressure Diagnosis

An AC gauge can be used to determine if a compressor is building up enough pressure to function properly. Several things can cause a compressor to lack sufficient pressure, such as worn out piston rings. Worn out engine cylinders are known to cause this type of problem as well.

Clutch Diagnosis

Problems with the clutch will keep a compressor from turning. The clutch can be tested using a jumper wire to jump the clutch lead to see if the clutch reacts. Blown fuses and faulty wiring are known to cause issues with a compressors clutch.

A lead-acid battery is the most common 12-volt battery found in commercial vehicles and is the heart of the cars electrical system. If your battery is near the end of its life and you dont want to purchase a new battery, restoring the battery may be a viable option to consider. If you are in need of a quick and inexpensive solution for extending the life of your auto battery, there are a few easily-obtainable items at your local auto store that can help you do the job.

Instructions

1

Wear safety glasses and gloves. Handling car batteries can be dangerous because of the sulfuric acid, which can cause chemical injuries on the skin and eyes. Make sure the area you are working in is ventilated and away from any electrical or fire hazards.

2

Check to see that the car is turned off and nothing in the car is using the battery.

3

Carefully remove the battery by removing any screws, bars or clamps that are holding your battery in position. Batteries are heavier than they appear and can weigh between thirty to sixty pounds. Seek a helping hand if needed.

4

Remove the protective caps on top of the battery. The caps are generally made of plastic so that they cannot conduct into surrounding parts.

5

Drain all the fluid from within the battery by drilling the shadow plugs to open every battery cell. Shadow plugs indicate the location of each cell battery. Use a non-metallic container as a holder for the fluid when dumping it out.

6

Discard the old battery fluid by neutralizing it with 1 tablespoon of baking soda. Although some states allow you to pour your fluid down the drain or gutter after it has been neutralized, check your state regulations regarding discarding hazardous materials. Most states have recycle centers and collection sites designated to the disposal of hazardous waste.

7

Heat the distilled water to a warm temperature before mixing one-quart of three-fourth distilled water to one-fourth magnesium sulfate.

8

Funnel the solution back into each battery cell. Gently shake the battery to insure a proper distribution of chemicals in the battery.

9

Charge the battery with a three-phase battery charger, available at most hardware or auto parts stores The charger should be designed for acid batteries with a lead base. Begin charging by attaching the positive end of the charger to the positive terminal and negative lead to the negative terminal.

10

Turn on the charger. Make sure the settings are at 12 volts before leaving the battery to charge. After allowing the battery to charge for at least eight hours, turn off the charger and remove the leads.

11

Replace the caps back onto the battery holes and reinstall the battery in the car.

The venerable generator provided the electrical power for all types of vehicles during the early years of the automobile. The generator used a spinning armature to generate DC electrical power and in practice was both rugged and reliable. With the advent of more electrical accessories like power windows, the generator could not meet the additional demands and was replaced by the more powerful alternator. Many collector cars on the road today still use a generator, and from time to time a rebuild is required. Rebuilding a generator at home is both an easy and rewarding experience.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the battery ground cable from the battery terminal. Remove the wire leads from the generator, making note of which terminal they were attached. Squeeze the generator belt with your hand and loosen the pulley nut with an open end wrench. Squeezing the belt prevents the pulley from turning. Remove the pulley from the generator. Remove the generator hold down bolts and lift the generator off the car.

2

Remove the commutator end frame by first removing the through bolts. The through bolts are either fastened with a hex-head bolt or by a slotted screw. Tap the end frame with a rubber mallet to loosen it from the field frame. Remove the drive end frame and armature assembly from the field frame. The armature assembly is the part with all the copper windings around a central shaft and will slide out from the field frame.

3

Clean the commutator end frames, commutator, and field frame with a clean cloth. Do not use solvent of any kind on the generator parts. Inspect the end bearings for excessive wear or corrosion. Replace the end bearings if they appear pitted or worn.

4

Examine the commutator for high bars, high mica, pitted bars or excessive wear. Turn the commutator on a lathe if any of these conditions are present. Clean the commutator with a fine grade of sandpaper if it appears to be in good condition. Wipe off any sandpaper residue or dirt with a clean cloth.

5

Remove the brushes from the field frame and discard. Clean any corrosion off of the brush frames and install new brushes. Ensure the preformed angle of the brush matches the commutator contour. Ensure the brush frame springs are in good condition and maintain tension on the brush. Replace any springs that are worn or broken.

6

Test the armature for ground faults. Place one lead of the growler probe on the armature core and the other lead on the commutator bar. If the growler lamp lights up, the commutator is grounded and must be replaced.

7

Place the armature in the V-notch of the growler. Turn the growler on and touch the armature with a metal hack-saw blade. The hack-saw blade will become magnetically attracted to the armature and will vibrate if the armature is good. Rotate the armature and check each winding in the same way.

8

Test the field coil for open circuits. Place on lead of the growler probe on the field terminal and the other lead on the field coil lead to the armature terminal. If the lamp does not light then the field coils have an open circuit and must be replaced.

9

Test the armature terminal for ground faults. Place one probe of the growler to an armature terminal and place the other probe on the generator frame. If the lamp lights then the terminal insulation through the generator frame has broken down and must be replaced.

10

Test the brush holders for ground faults. Place one probe of the growler on the insulated brush holder and the other probe to the generator frame. If the growler lamp lights then the brush holder is grounded and the insulation must be replaced.

11

Solder any loose wires and replace any bad ground insulation as required.

12

Install the armature into the field frame. Install the end frame, being careful not to damage the brushes on the commutator. Install the drive end frame and install the through bolts. Install the drive pulley and fasten the pulley nut hand tight.

13

Install the generator onto the engine and install the hold down bolts hand tight. Place the generator belt over the engine pulley and generator pulley. Tighten the generator belt using a pry-bar wedged against the generator frame and engine. Tighten the hold down bolts while holding tension on the generator with the pry-bar. Squeeze the generator belt with your hand and tighten the pulley nut with an open end wrench.

14

Attach the wire leads to their original mounting studs on the generator. Connect the battery ground lead to the battery. Polarize the generator by momentarily contacting the "BAT" terminal of the voltage regulator to the "GEN" or "ARM" terminal using a jumper wire. Apply 8 to 10 drops of light oil to the bearing oil cups located on each end of the generator.

Air intake systems vary in style, price and power produced. They range from stock systems equipped with air boxes and filters to cold air intake systems and warm air intakes. All have a filter of some sort.

Restriction

All air filters restrict air to a certain extent. The less restriction, the more powerful will be your motor. The air still must be filtered of dirt and debris. A high flow filter, such as a K & N, added to a stock system provides more air flow economically.

Temperature

Cold air generally is better for production of horsepower until the air gets too cold, like during northern winters. A true cold air intake is great for racing, and works well in moderate and even very hot climates. Theses systems are available for many vehicles from aftermarket manufacturers. An airbox allows big gulps of air when the throttle is opened all the way at speed. Therefore, any intake system should have an airbox appropriate to the size of the engine.

Price

The bottom line is that you must evaluate what your needs are and what you can afford to spend on an air intake system. The power and efficiency gains you will get depend greatly on other modifications you make to your vehicle. Research manufacturers claims and choose a system best for your vehicle.

Establishing a successful auto glass installation business requires proper technician certification, business registration and attention to inventory, insurance and promotions.

Instructions

1

The first step is to apply for certification through an accepted national certifying body. The National Glass Association and the Independent Glass Association currently offer certification courses. The basic prerequisites are similar for both organizations. They require applicants to have six months of verifiable auto glass industry experience and to be deriving 50 percent of their employment income through auto glass work.

2

Second, choose a strong location for your business start-up. Important factors to weigh include vehicle and equipment storage capability, customer access, market visibility, municipal zoning regulations, and proximity to auto repair organizations. Contact commercial real-estate agencies to access local lease rates for office/business space.

3

Third, register your business with the appropriate state or municipal business licensing agency. You will need to choose the proper corporate structure, so do some research to decide which best suites your goals. Options include a sole proprietorship, corporation, limited liability company, s-corporation, or non-profit. You will then need to file the correct paperwork and pay the necessary fees for requirements ranging from trade name registration to business incorporation. Contact information for most business licensing agencies may be found in the Blue (Government) Pages of the local phone directory. You may also find filing fees, proper registration criteria, and applications online via the local county clerks office.

4

The next step is to purchase inventory. You will need to dedicate a vehicle for any mobile service you plan to offer. There is the usual need to purchase business equipment such as computer terminals, database and invoice software, office phones, and fax machines. You must also acquire the proper tools. Several large organizations such as Aegis Tools International and AG Distributors provide a comprehensive list of trade tools and equipment needed.

5

You will need to research the Insurance billing process as well. Depending on the services you provide, a large portion of your business may be driven by insurance and accident related referrals. The insurance billing process plays a vital role in customer payment. You must develop relationships with the major auto insurers in the area to properly promote your services. Local industry workshops and conferences can provide good opportunities to build a network of contacts.

6

Finally, you will need to have a solid marketing plan in place. Develop a referral partnership with local new and used car dealers. You may also look to partner with tow companies and auto repair shops. You can implement a print advertising campaign by posting professional fliers and brochures in places where large groups of potential customers congregate. These place include laundries, bowling alleys, gymnasiums, and large retail outlets. Purchase business cards to give to potential referral partners and customers during meetings or events. You may also offer customer-friendly programs like 24-hour service, or free service for new client referrals.

Many parts rely on the electrical system of a vehicle to power them so that they function properly. Several tools can assist when trying to find and fix auto electrical problems. A voltmeter, an ohmmeter or a simple test light can make the job of locating electrical issues within a vehicle a lot easier and safer.

Fuse Help

Although replacing a blown fuse can sometimes be enough to fix auto electrical system problems, the real issue is often what caused the fuse to blow. Either way, replacement fuses should never exceed the capacity of the blown fuse being replaced as the circuit will not be able to handle this.

Relay Help

A relay is a switch that brings voltage to a circuit while also lowering the amount of wiring needed within the circuit. Jumper wire can be used to bypass a circuit breaker to test a circuit. This same method can be used for a relay as well; if the circuit works after bypassing the relay, then the problem indeed lies within the relay.

Circuit Help

When a circuit is dead, the load point is the first place to look; checking the voltage here with a voltmeter can help to identify the problem. Ground connections could be no good if you find that there is voltage in the circuit. If you find the "hot" wire void of voltage, then the problem is likely due to faulty wiring.

Vehicle fuel systems operate under high pressure. Steel fuel lines keep high-pressure fuel contained on route between the fuel tank and the fuel delivery system. Correctly installing steel fuel lines entails producing straight cuts on the ends of the line. This ensures the lines will seat properly in the compression fitting connecting two pieces of line or connecting the line to fuel system components. Improperly cut fuel lines create a situation where fuel can escape from a crooked edge.

Instructions

1

Mark the cut location on a piece of steel fuel line with a piece of soapstone.

2

Open the jaws of a tubing cutter by turning the lower knob counterclockwise. Stop turning the knob when the distance between the top rollers and the bottom cutting blade allows enough room for the steel fuel line.

3

Slide the fuel line in the open jaws of the tubing cutter. Align the cut mark with the center of the bottom cutting blade. Turn the cutter knob clockwise until the blade contacts the surface of the tube. Turn the knob clockwise a quarter turn to apply pressure to the line.

4

Spin the tubing cutter around the fuel line for two revolutions. Turn the knob clockwise a half turn. Spin the cutter an additional two revolutions. Continue tightening and spinning the tubing cutter until it cuts through the steel fuel line.

5

Place the tapered end of the burr remover -- located on the back face of the tubing cutter -- inside the cut end of the fuel line. Apply pressure toward the fuel line. Turn the tubing cutter to clear the burr from inside the fuel line.