Showing posts with label that. Show all posts
Showing posts with label that. Show all posts

Monday, November 17, 2014

A 1988 Honda Car With a V 6 That Will Not Start but Will Turn Over

A 1988 Honda Car With a V-6 That Will Not Start but Will Turn Over

Car problems can be frustrating, especially when youre trying to get somewhere important. Before calling a professional mechanic to take a look at your Honda that wont start, try a few tips to solve the problem.

Reasons

    There are several reasons why your Honda engine might turn over, but not turn on. It might be a problem with the fueling system or the ignition system. Either not enough gas is getting to the engine or the engine is not combusting fuel.

Location

    First, confirm that you have sufficient gasoline in the tank. If you do, then go to the fuel tank at the back of the vehicle. Crawl underneath the vehicle and check the fuel tank for holes. Follow the fuel line from the fuel tank to the engine. Look for corrosion along the fuel line which might indicate a fuel leak. Check components that are often in need of maintenance, such as the fuel filter, fuel pump, spark plug and starter.

Troubleshooting

    Put at least two gallons of gas in your fuel tank and immediately try to start your vehicle. This should cover the possibility of an empty fuel tank. Your fuel filter, fuel pump and spark plugs are easily replaceable; replace these components. If you have some automotive knowledge, you might be able to check and replace the camshaft mounted near the top of the engine as well. Also, check your catalytic converter, located underneath the vehicle, to make sure it is not warped or damaged. Consult a professional mechanic if the problem continues.

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Monday, January 13, 2014

Parts That Make Up a Transmission

Parts That Make Up a Transmission

The first automobiles produced did not offer automatic transmission. Using a clutch, drivers had to manually shift gears to operate the vehicle. As cars grew bigger and more people acquired them, an "automatic" transmission became the focus of future vehicles. Transmissions, whether automatic or manual, are made up of many parts, including several gears. Manual transmissions use needle bearings to help mount the different parts. Both transmissions work differently.

Torque Converter

    In an automatic transmission, the torque converter takes the place of the clutch in a manual transmission. A torque converters purpose is to increase the turning power that the engine provides. This is completed by the rest of the parts in a transmission.

Pump and Turbine

    The engine and transmission never physically touch. It works by hydraulic coupling, in which the transmission fluid is caught by blades of a fan, causing them to spin. The impeller, or pump, and the turbine are these blades. Once one fan starts spinning, the other spins. Powered by the centrifugal force, the transmission fluid moves to the outside of the blades and is sent back to the turbine side through the third fan, the stator. Steady transmission fluid flow causes the engines turning power to multiply.

Planetary Gear Set

    In an automatic transmission, there is a planetary gear set. The planetary gear set was designed after the model of our solar system, hence the name. It is made up of different sized gears that are circular in shape and revolve around a "sun gear" which is the central gear. Planetary gear sets differ by type of transmission, but as of 2010, the basic design has not been changed for nearly a century.

Clutch Pack and Transmission Bands

    Some vehicles use multiple clutch disc systems, which consist of discs placed between steel plates. The clutch contains one piston and return springs. When the clutch pack is under pressure due to the transmission fluid, the piston locks the assembly together, and when the car is not in gear, the piston disengages. Sometimes a transmission band, a metal ring designed for flexibility, is used instead of the clutch pack. The band sits around the clutch. Engaging the gears requires the band to tighten and loosen to disengage.

Output Shaft

    The output shaft connects the transmission to the wheels. The output shaft is attached to the axles in a number of ways, which allows the transmission to turn the shaft and ultimately spin the axles.

Manual Input Shaft

    In a manual transmission, the input shaft is mounted in a gearbox at the front. This box is very durable. The front end of the input shaft slides perfectly into the clutch disc. The rear end of the input shaft fits the drive gear at the end of the layshaft.

Layshaft

    The layshaft, also known as the cluster gear, is a single unit consisting of the number of gears that the transmission has (three-speed, four-speed, five-speed or six-speed) and often times, a gear for reverse.

Central Shaft

    The central shaft runs inside of the layshaft. Needle bearings are used to mount the layshaft. The input shaft creates the power and sends it through the layshaft. From the layshaft, the power is sent to each gear, controlled by the shifter of the vehicle and to the output shaft.

Output Shaft

    The output shaft is located at the back end of the gearbox with needle bearings. After the vehicle is shifted, the output shaft then goes into the drive shaft to get the car rolling.

Synchronizer

    A ring with teeth on the outside of it sits beside the gear. When the driver chooses a gear, the shift hub does the work and the teeth lock itself into the gear. This combination drives the output shaft.

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Wednesday, October 30, 2013

Engines That Will Bolt Up to a Toyota Five Speed Transmission

Engines That Will Bolt-Up to a Toyota Five-Speed Transmission

When Toyota vehicles with five-speed transmissions are headed for the junkyard, owners can save money by replacing their cars engine. Engine manufacturers call the process "vehicle repowering" and owners add years to the life of the vehicle when they opt for repowering over individual engine repairs. Some automotive shops specialize in acquiring replacement Toyota engines from domestic and international locations. The kits come with all the equipment needed to bolt the engine onto the vehicle.

1990 to 1993 Celica

    The Celica GT-fourth generation 5/all-trac 3S-grand turismo turbo engine is the all-wheel drive, five-speed transmission engine for Celicas manufactured between 1990 and 1993. The four-cylinder, 16-valve engine produced by Toyota weighs 600 lbs. with 225 horsepower at 6000 rpm. The engine produces 200 ft.-lbs. of torque at 3200 rpm. Redline levels occur at 8000 rpm. JDM Engine Depot supplies the engine for a suggested retail price of $1,099 (as of 2011). Engine heads, a power steering pump and all-wheel drive manual transmission are included with the engine.

1986 to 1989 Celica

    Five-speed-transmission Celica vehicles manufactured between 1986 and 1989 are compatible with the Celica grand turismo-fourth generation 4/all-trac 3S-grand turismo turbo engine. The four-cylinder, all-wheel drive, 16-valve engine manufactured by Toyota weighs 600 lbs. The unit is capable of 190 horsepower at 6000 rpm and 190 ft.-lbs. of torque at 3200 rpm. Redline levels occur at 8000 rpm. The engine is available through JDM Engine Depot at a suggested retail price of $999 (as of 2011). Complete engine heads, flywheels, a wiring harness and an all-wheel-drive manual transmission are included with the engine.

1994 to 1999 MR2

    The MR2 third-generation 3S-grand turismo turbo engine is compatible with the MR2 rear-wheel drive sports car manufactured by Toyota between 1994 and 1999. The four-cylinder, 16-valve engine is capable of 225 horsepower at 6000 rpm and 200 ft.-lbs. of torque at 3200 rpm. Redline levels occur at 8000 rpm. Total weight of the all-wheel drive, five-speed transmission engine is 600 lbs. JDM Engine Depot provides the engine at a suggested retail price of $1,999 (as of 2011). Engine heads, a non-limited slip differential transmission and fuel rails are included with the engine.

1991 to 1993 MR2

    The MR2 3S-grand turismo turbo engine is compatible with second generation MR2 front-wheel drive sports cars manufactured by Toyota between 1991 and 1993. The four-cylinder, 16-valve engine is capable of 220 horsepower at 6000 rpm and 200 ft.-lbs. of torque at 3000 rpm. Redline levels occur at 8000 rpm. Total weight of the five-speed transmission engine is 600 lbs. JDM Engine Depot supplies the engine at a suggested retail price of $1,749 (as of 2011). The engine kit includes complete heads, sensors and distributor.

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Friday, October 25, 2013

How to Fix a Toyota Corolla Door Handle That Wont Open

How to Fix a Toyota Corolla Door Handle That Wont Open

Toyota Corollas door handles can get stuck or simply not opening doors. The 2004 Toyota Corolla repair manual includes a little information on how to remove the inside door panel, but you may need help from a professional. In a few easy steps, your car door handles can be replaced or fixed.

Instructions

Removing the Car Door Panel

    1

    Remove the interior door panel. Remove the screws holding the panel to the door and "unsnap" the plastic panel siding. The 2002 Corolla has three screws as well as the snaps. The handle casing has one screw and two underneath the armrest in the middle of the panel.

    2

    Open the door and keep it open while manually locking the door, then use a screwdriver to unscrew the broken door handle. Set this screw in a safe place. You must remove the broken piece entirely. If you cannot remove the broken handle entirely, there is another solution later.

    3

    Remove the armrest by pulling it up from the snaps. You may need to wedge a flathead screwdriver under the pad to push it up and reveal the screws beneath. Unscrew these two screws and set aside with the other.

    4

    Check inside the door handle compartment for possible broken parts or pieces missing. There may be something lodged or wedged inside the handle. Take a wiping cloth or wet towel and clean the area, then check the door handle from the outside. If it is still stuck, then you simply need to replace the car door handle.

Replacing a Toyota Corolla Door Handle

    5

    Remove the door handle by starting at the bottom left or right side of the doors panel. Put your fingers under the plastic and pull it from the snap. It should come loose with a bit of pressure.

    6

    Unsnap each part of the door panel. This is a tedious process but the entire door panel must come off. Then lift the panel up and over the locking device once the panel is free. Try supporting the panel with your legs. Try to not let the panel fall to the ground. You may need assistance. If you have power windows and locks, there will be wires coming from inside the door panel, which will restrict how far the panel can be moved. Do not disturb these wires.

    7

    Lift the panel up and over the locking device once the panel is free. Support the panel with your legs. Try to not let the panel fall to the ground. You may need assistance. If you have power windows and locks, there are power chords andd wires coming from inside the door panel which restricted how far the panel could be moved. Do not disturb these wires in any way.

    8

    Look inside the door for a metal arm with an L-shaped end extending out to where the door handle was before. The tip of the metal arm needs to insert into the new door handle.

    9

    Take the metal arm and attach it to the door handle. The door handle needs to be inserted into place inside the door panel. Snap the metal arm once inside the door handle. You may need pliers for this.

Reattach the Door Panel

    10

    Attach the door handle in the door panel to the door itself. Three arms extend from the back of the door handle. There are two L-shaped arms, and one is a cylinder. They match the receiving pieces in the door frame. Line each of these as you push the door panel back on.

    11

    Realign the door panel by lifting it up and over the locking device before lowering it back into position.

    12

    Slide the door panel to one side as the door handle slides into place into the door. This brings the hole of the screw into line with the corresponding hole in the door.

    13

    Snap the door panel back into place. You will need to press hard on the door panel and listen to each one snap to make sure that it is securely fastened back to the door.

    14

    Test the handle after closing the door. Screw in the three screws from before and replace the armrest pad by snapping it back on.

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Friday, October 18, 2013

How to Fix a Car Door That Wont Open

How to Fix a Car Door That Wont Open

It is frustrating when your car door will not open, especially when you are in a hurry or are battling extreme weather. There are a variety of reasons why a car door wont open. Identifying the problem and eliminating the cause are the first steps to fixing the car door. There are a few common issues that will help identify the problem.

Instructions

    1

    Eliminate the easy fixes. Check that the door locks are open. Many people lock the doors without realizing it, or the doors lock automatically when the door closes. If the door will not open from the inside, check that the child safety lock is not engaged. If the child lock is on, the door will not open.

    2

    Check the seat belt. If the seat belt has not fully retracted, it may be blocking the doors latching mechanism. Give the door a firm shove from the inside while pulling the door handle open. This may take quite a bit of force and multiple attempts. Once the seat belt is taken off the latch, the door will open.

    3

    Remove the panel of the door to access the mechanical components. Reference the car manual for the location of the door locks and its parts. Look for a broken rod or loose cable. Replace the broken part at your local automotive store.

    4

    Lubricate the door hinges. If the door consistently jams or opens with extreme difficulty, using a spray lubricant might be all you need. Open the door to access the hinges. Spray a liberal amount of lubricant to the hinge. To work the lubricant into the hinge, open and close the door without shutting it completely. If it continues to creak or is difficult to open, add more lubricant.

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