So Fix it

Turn signals operate by the opening and closing of a switch, or relay, which interrupts the electrical signal to the light. The switch operates in cadence based upon the electrical signal entering into the relay. Drivers of older vehicles with electrical problems may notice that the relay goes faster when the engine revs up, and slows down when the engine idles. An older relay will also begin to slow down as the electrical contacts in the switch begin to wear out. Speeding up the flashing of the turn signal merely requires installing a new turn signal relay.

Instructions

1

Turn the vehicle to "ON" and activate the turn signal.

2

Trace the location of the signal by listening for the clicking sound of the relay. Most relays are housed to the left of the steering column, mounted against the firewall in a bundle of wire connections. The relay is a usually a silver cylinder about 1 inch tall. Some newer models use a black box for the relay. You can both hear and feel the clicking of the switch while the signal is active.

3

Remove any necessary trim or dash panels to access the relay using a screwdriver or socket wrench as necessary.

4

Turn the vehicle off and remove the key.

5

Disconnect the old relay by pulling the wiring harness out of the electrical connection. You may have to unscrew a few retaining screws from the relay. Install the new relay in the reverse of the removal of the original. Start the vehicle and activate the turn signal to test. You will notice the signal is faster. Reinstall any dash or trim panels you removed.

The first automobiles produced did not offer automatic transmission. Using a clutch, drivers had to manually shift gears to operate the vehicle. As cars grew bigger and more people acquired them, an "automatic" transmission became the focus of future vehicles. Transmissions, whether automatic or manual, are made up of many parts, including several gears. Manual transmissions use needle bearings to help mount the different parts. Both transmissions work differently.

Torque Converter

In an automatic transmission, the torque converter takes the place of the clutch in a manual transmission. A torque converters purpose is to increase the turning power that the engine provides. This is completed by the rest of the parts in a transmission.

Pump and Turbine

The engine and transmission never physically touch. It works by hydraulic coupling, in which the transmission fluid is caught by blades of a fan, causing them to spin. The impeller, or pump, and the turbine are these blades. Once one fan starts spinning, the other spins. Powered by the centrifugal force, the transmission fluid moves to the outside of the blades and is sent back to the turbine side through the third fan, the stator. Steady transmission fluid flow causes the engines turning power to multiply.

Planetary Gear Set

In an automatic transmission, there is a planetary gear set. The planetary gear set was designed after the model of our solar system, hence the name. It is made up of different sized gears that are circular in shape and revolve around a "sun gear" which is the central gear. Planetary gear sets differ by type of transmission, but as of 2010, the basic design has not been changed for nearly a century.

Clutch Pack and Transmission Bands

Some vehicles use multiple clutch disc systems, which consist of discs placed between steel plates. The clutch contains one piston and return springs. When the clutch pack is under pressure due to the transmission fluid, the piston locks the assembly together, and when the car is not in gear, the piston disengages. Sometimes a transmission band, a metal ring designed for flexibility, is used instead of the clutch pack. The band sits around the clutch. Engaging the gears requires the band to tighten and loosen to disengage.

Output Shaft

The output shaft connects the transmission to the wheels. The output shaft is attached to the axles in a number of ways, which allows the transmission to turn the shaft and ultimately spin the axles.

Manual Input Shaft

In a manual transmission, the input shaft is mounted in a gearbox at the front. This box is very durable. The front end of the input shaft slides perfectly into the clutch disc. The rear end of the input shaft fits the drive gear at the end of the layshaft.

Layshaft

The layshaft, also known as the cluster gear, is a single unit consisting of the number of gears that the transmission has (three-speed, four-speed, five-speed or six-speed) and often times, a gear for reverse.

Central Shaft

The central shaft runs inside of the layshaft. Needle bearings are used to mount the layshaft. The input shaft creates the power and sends it through the layshaft. From the layshaft, the power is sent to each gear, controlled by the shifter of the vehicle and to the output shaft.

Output Shaft

The output shaft is located at the back end of the gearbox with needle bearings. After the vehicle is shifted, the output shaft then goes into the drive shaft to get the car rolling.

Synchronizer

A ring with teeth on the outside of it sits beside the gear. When the driver chooses a gear, the shift hub does the work and the teeth lock itself into the gear. This combination drives the output shaft.

An oil dipstick is one of the most essential accessories to an engine. If youve lost your dipstick, or if you own an older engine (whether on your vehicle, lawnmower or other motorized item), and the oil dipstick is worn out, replace it promptly. Fortunately, creating your own custom oil dipstick is possible.

Instructions

1

Scrub the first 6 to 2 inches of the wire rod using the steel wool. Use a side-to-side rather than up-and-down motion to make scuffs on the rod to help hold the oil for measuring.

2

Find the distance from the end of the rod of the "full" mark on the old dipstick using a tape measure. With the wire cutters, lightly crimp the new dipstick at the same point where the old dipstick is marked.

3

Make an "L" bend in the rod at the same total length as the old dipstick, using the pliers. This will ensure that you measure properly with the new dipstick, not pushing the rod in too far. Beyond the "L" bend, trim excess length as you please with the wire cutter.

4

Create your own "full" mark if you do not have the original dipstick. Find the bottom of the oil pan by inserting the rod into the proper tube in the engine until it stops. Do not force it beyond that point. Carefully mark the dipstick at the top of the tube, and make an "L" bend here with pliers to prevent over-insertion in the future. Trim excess length beyond the "L" bend as you please.

5

Add oil to the engine in small but consistent increments, measuring in between each time you add oil. When you notice the oil level increasing much faster between measurements, you have reached the top of the oil pan and should put the "full" mark just below this point.

The 1999 Chevrolet Camaro is one of two models of sports cars produced by Chevrolet. The vehicle was available in both hard-top and soft-top convertible, and was available with either an automatic or manual transmission. Each Camaro has its own unique VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) which allows the vehicle to be identified. If you lose your keys, most Chevrolet dealers can make a new key for your car as long as they have the VIN.

Instructions

1

Locate the VIN of your vehicle, which will be listed on both your registration and on your Camaros insurance card.

2

Go to your local Chevrolet dealerships Parts Department. To locate a dealership near you, visit the Chevrolet Locate A Dealer website, provided in the Resources section of this article.

3

Provide the representative with your government-issued photo identification, the vehicles registration and the VIN. The name on the photo identification must match the name on the registration to verify ownership of the vehicle. Once the ownership of the vehicle has been confirmed, and the specific vehicle has been located in their system, the dealer will cut new keys.

The straight through muffler incorporates a perforated tube design that allows the exhaust gases to expand quietly. For straight through exhaust the rule is the bigger the can the quieter the muffler, and they are considered to have the best flow design of most modern muffler types. The purpose of a muffler in states without yearly emissions certifications on vehicles is noise reduction. Installing a straight through muffler can reduce noise and can be tackled by most knowledgeable car enthusiasts. The right tools will make the difference with this job.

Instructions

1

Purchase the muffler and pre-silencer in the correct size for your car. Purchase the mandrel bends, or steel pipe for the tubes, from the same or another supplier. Be sure to get new exhaust hangers for the system.

2

Lift the car on a car hoist. Using jack stands is an option but will make working and welding beneath the car nearly impossible. If you are taking on this project it is advisable you either have access to or own the equipment to do the job correctly. Once the car is lifted examine the existing exhaust system for the location of the exhaust hanger mounts. Lay out the new system, noting the bends you need to use to accommodate the various mechanics the exhaust system needs to skirt.

3

Remove the existing system. Spray any clamps and hangers with silicone lubricant to loosen rust or dirt before loosening the clamps. Disengage the pipes from the catalytic converter, but do not disturb or remove it. This portion of the system needs to remain intact, and hollowing it or removing it could in fact hamper the performance of your vehicle. Replace any hangers or clamps that are damaged at this time.

4

Cut the mandrel bend sections for your system. Test fit the sections by placing them in the location beneath the car they will be mounted. Trim and adjust as needed.

5

Tack weld the pieces together. Check again for fit and be sure everything is aligned properly before welding the pieces together permanently and attaching the hangers. If the system is stainless steel you can leave it alone, but if it is aluminum or regular steel, paint with heat resistant paint created for exhaust systems to keep the surface from early corrosion.

6

Seam weld the pipe sections and muffler together and mount on the vehicle, welding in place. Secure all hangers and clamps. Start the vehicle and test the system for back pressure and flow.