Showing posts with label oil. Show all posts
Showing posts with label oil. Show all posts

Friday, June 6, 2014

Car Shocks Oil Leaks

Car Shocks & Oil Leaks

Oil leaking from an automobile may have numerous sources, and many car owners overlook the shocks as a possible culprit. Shocks use oil to dampen the movements of the vehicle, and this function can sometimes lead to a leak.

Location of Shock Leak

    Most automobile suspensions use struts on the front wheels of the vehicle and shocks on the rear. Shocks will leak oil just inside the rear wheels of the vehicle. Struts also use oil and may also leak. Oil leaking from a shock may run down the shock or drip onto other suspension components or the vehicles frame.

Inspecting Shocks for Leaks

    To locate the leak, wipe away any dirt or grime from the shock. After cleaning, drive the vehicle and recheck the shock for fresh oil. A leaking shock will also work less effectively. You can check its functionality by shoving down and then releasing the corner of the vehicle with the suspect shock. If the shock is working properly, the car will settle back to the original position without bouncing.

Dealing with Leaks

    A leaking shock has either a corroded body or a failed seal. In either case the shock will require replacement. Shocks should be replaced in pairs, even if only one side has failed. The result of replacing both shocks at once will be an even amount of suspension support on each side of the vehicle.

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How to Remove the Rear Axle Oil Seal on a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee

How to Remove the Rear Axle Oil Seal on a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee

If you plan to remove the oil seal in the rear axle housing of your Jeep Grand Cherokee, it helps to have a seal puller. Rental pullers are available at many auto parts stores and will help prevent damage to the pinion shaft. The oil seal is in the housing where the pinion shaft passes through the differential and keeps the oil from running out of your axle. Replacement seals are available from Jeep or most auto parts stores.

Instructions

    1

    Raise the rear of your Jeep with a jack and support the truck with a set of jack stands under the rear axle. Locate the pinion yoke, where the axle and driveshaft meet. Place an alignment mark on the yoke and the driveshaft with a paint pen for use later.

    2

    Remove the four 10-millimeter bolts from the pinion yoke with a wrench, then separate the drive shaft from the yoke. Caully set the drive shaft aside.

    3

    Locate the pinion nut in the center of the pinion yoke. Install a large socket and breaker bar on the nut and rotate it counterclockwise. Remove the nut and washer from the shaft.

    4

    Remove the pinion yoke from the shaft with a yoke puller. If you do not have a puller, you can rent one from many auto parts stores. If you cannot find a puller, heating the yoke with an oxyacetylene torch will allow it to swell and come loose. Caully slide it off the shaft.

    5

    Place an oil drain pan under the pinion shaft to catch any oil that might seep from the differential when you remove the seal.

    6

    Place the seal puller over the shaft and engage the arms with the inside edge of the seal. Turn the puller counterclockwise with a socket and ratchet, pulling the seal from the bore.

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Monday, April 14, 2014

How to Replace an Oil Pump on a Jeep CJ7

The Jeep CJ is a series of commercial vehicles that resemble the Willys military Jeep from World War II. American Motors Corporation manufactured the Jeep CJ7 from 1976 to 1986. These vehicles have several different engines, with a four-cylinder 2.5-liter engine being one of the most common. The oil pump for a Jeep CJ7 is under the engine, so you must access it from below the vehicle.

Instructions

    1

    Remove the cable from the batterys negative terminal with a socket wrench to prevent anyone from starting the engine. Raise the vehicle with a jack and support it on jack stands.

    2

    Place a drain pan under the oil drain on the crankcase. Remove the drain plug with a socket wrench, and allow the oil to drain into the drain pan. Replace the drain plug and store the oil.

    3

    Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the manifold with a socket wrench. Remove the starter.

    4

    Remove the access plate for the bell housing with a socket wrench. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the oil pan and remove the oil pan.

    5

    Remove the retaining screws for the oil pump with a socket wrench. Detach the oil pump and its gasket from the engine.

    6

    Clean the mounting surfaces for the oil pump with a shop rag. Mount the new oil pump gasket and install the new oil pump. Fasten the retaining screws for the oil pump.

    7

    Install the oil pan and the access plate for the bell housing. Connect the starter and attach the exhaust pipe to the manifold.

    8

    Lower the vehicle and replace the oil in the engine. Connect the cable to the negative battery cable with a socket wrench.

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Tuesday, March 25, 2014

How to Replace a 1999 7 3L HI Pressure Oil Pump

The 7.3-liter Power Stroke engine that Ford manufactured from 1995 to 2002 is a diesel engine and typically has a turbocharger. It is most common in heavy Ford trucks from this period, and is the standard engine for the 1999 Ford F350 Super Duty with four-wheel drive. This engine requires a high-pressure oil pump, which is mounted directly to the cylinder block. The oil pump replacement procedure on a 1999 7.3-liter engine requires the removal of the radiator and the crankshaft damper.

Instructions

    1

    Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench to prevent anyone from starting the engine. Place a drain pan for the coolant under the radiator drain and open the drain. Allow the coolant to drain into the drain pan and replace the drain plug.

    2

    Remove the retainers for the air intake duct with a suitable pry tool and detach the air intake duct from the radiator support. Disconnect the expansion tank on top of the radiator with a socket wrench and remove the cover for the radiator support brace.

    3

    Disconnect the cooling fan and its shroud from the engine. Detach the hoses from the radiator and remove the retaining bolts for the radiator with a socket wrench. Remove the radiator from the vehicle.

    4

    Raise the vehicle with a jack and support it on jack stands. Disconnect the cover for the flywheel housing with a socket wrench and hold the flywheel in place with a suitable holding tool. Remove the mounting bolt for the crankshaft pulley bolt and disconnect the pulley. Detach the crankshaft vibration damper from the engine.

    5

    Assemble Step Plate Adapter D80L-630-A, Damper Wear Ring Remover T94T-6379-AH1, Bearing Collet Sleeve T77F-7025-C, Remover Tube T77J-7025-B and Forcing Screw T84T-7025-B to the crankshaft damper. Tighten the forcing screw to pull the damper wear ring from the hub.

    6

    Remove the retaining bolts that attach the oil pump to the cylinder block with a socket wrench. Detach the oil pump housing and its square gasket from the cylinder block.

    7

    Install the new oil pump and gasket to the cylinder block. Torque its mounting bolts to 14 ft. lbs with a torque wrench. Complete the oil pump installation by performing steps 2 through 5 in reverse order. Connect the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Start the engine and check for oil leaks.

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Wednesday, March 12, 2014

Comparison of the Weight of Water Automobile Oil

Comparison of the Weight of Water & Automobile Oil

Water and motor oil are both liquids, but thats about all they have in common. Crude and ined oil contain dozens of different compounds, whereas pure water is composed of just hydrogen and oxygen molecules. However, the density of water can vary depending on whats in it.

Specific Gravity

    The easiest way to compare the weights of oil and water is to examine their specific gravities. Specific gravity is a measurement used to compare the relative density of any substance to that of pure water when measured at one atmosphere of pressure (about 14.7 psi). Specific gravity is expressed as a percentage; a substance that has a specific gravity of 0.90 is 90 percent as dense as water, and one with a measurement of 1.10 weighs ten percent more than water. The materials temperature also plays a role, but doesnt affect this comparison much.

Oil vs. Water Density

    Pure water is the erence point, so it has a specific gravity of 1.000. Salt is more dense than water, so seawater has a specific gravity of about 1.025, depending on the location. Crude oil density varies by location; "light" crude, such as that from Texas, measures at about 0.876, and heavier oils check in at 0.918. Refined oils, such as 5W-30 motor oil, are a bit lighter, at around 0.861.

Oil vs. Water Weight

    Between its freezing point and about 100 degrees Fahrenheit, pure water weighs in at about 8.3 pounds per gallon and seawater weighs about 8.5 pounds (1.025 x 8.3 = 8.50) per gallon. Given their specific gravities, light crude weighs about 7.27 pounds per gallon, heavy crude weighs 7.61 pounds per gallon and ined motor oil checks in at about 7.14 pounds per gallon.

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Friday, February 21, 2014

How to Fix a Harley Davidson Oil Leak

How to Fix a Harley Davidson Oil Leak

The name Harley Davidson is synonymous with motorcycles, a desert landscape, street cool and rebelliousness. Some famous riders include actors Brigitte Bardot, Peter Fonda and Elizabeth Taylor. It is also the motorcycle for the notorious gang, Hells Angels, which is most popularly linked to crime and drugs. Harley-Davidson may evoke a glamorous image but even this is not a perfect brand. Even the most expert rider will probably have to tend to an oil leak at some point in his lifetime.

Instructions

    1

    Check from where the leak is occurring to locate the problem. Make sure to check for any holes in the fuel, oil, or hydraulic tanks. Check both the cases and the lines for leaks. The leak may not be directly from the tank but could be a mixture of oil, water and air, blackened to look like an oil leak. Checking the source of a possible leak should be a regular practice anyway to ensure you are not left without fuel in the middle of nowhere.

    2

    Wipe away excess oil. According to Harley Davidson Maintenance, the initial thoughts of a rider when he finds oil formation on the right side of the engine is that the oil leak is caused by a damaged push rod tube seal. In this case, the tube should be replaced. A replacement tube can be found by looking at Harley Davidson parts retailers.

    3

    Take your bike to a mechanic who specializes in Harley Davidson motorcycles. If the problem is recurring, your best bet is to take it to an expert mechanic. He or she may have to tear out the engine to look for the cause of the oil leak and this is best left to an expert. Affordable mechanics can be found on the Internet.

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Monday, February 17, 2014

How to Test an Oil Pressure Sensor

How to Test an Oil Pressure Sensor

The oil pressure sensor, often erred to as the oil pressure sender, is a unit responsible for telling a vehicles computer the oil pressure. It controls the gauge on a vehicle, which lights up as a warning indicator. This signals that the automobiles engine is receiving too little oil pressure or the sending unit is faulty. Low oil pressure could mean that not enough oil is present and can be easily fixed with additional oil. It might also indicate that the engine is burning oil or that an oil leak exists. If the sensor, or sending unit as some call it, is to blame, it can be easily tested.

Instructions

    1

    Insert the key into the ignition, and turn the key to the accessory setting. The engine should not be running.

    2

    Look at the oil gauge on the dashboard. Unplug the wire that is connected to the sending unit, if the gauge is at zero. If the gauge goes up to three, it indicates that the sender is bad and needs to be replaced.

    3

    Hold the end of the unplugged wire from the sending unit, and touch it to the negative part of the battery or to any other metal piece in the vehicle. If it shows zero on the oil gauge, it is a good sender and is not faulty.

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How to Change the Oil on a 2001 Jeep Cherokee

How to Change the Oil on a 2001 Jeep Cherokee

Engine oil acts as a lubricant inside the engine and breaks down over time, theore your automobile requires a regular oil and filter change in order to extend the life of the vehicle. Learning to change your Cherokees oil and filter on a regular basis can help save you money on maintenance and expensive repairs later.

Instructions

    1

    Find the oil filter located at the oil pan of the engine. Place a container directly underneath filter.

    2

    Turn the filter counterclockwise, using an oil-filter wrench, and remove from the engine. Allow the oil to drain completely from the engine.

    3

    Apply a small amount of oil to the rubber seal of the new filter. Attach the new filter to the engine turning it clockwise until tight. Only use your hand to tighten the new filter and not a wrench or other tool.

    4

    Remove the oil pan drain plug, using a socket wrench and turning counterclockwise. Be prepared to grab the plug before it drops into the container below. Allow the oil to drain completely.

    5

    Reattach the drain plug without overtightening and remove any excess oil from around the oil pan with a cloth or paper towel.

    6

    Locate and remove the cap for engine oil at the top of the engine. Add the amount of oil and weight specific to your Cherokees engine, either 6 quarts of 10w30 or 5w30. This information is located in your automobiles manual as well as underneath the hood. Replace the cap to the engine.

    7

    Run your engine for one minute and let it sit for a few minutes. Using the oil dipstick, double-check the engine oil level is between the two indicators. Dispose of the old oil properly at your local oil-recycling center.

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Thursday, December 12, 2013

How to Install KA24E Oil Pumps

The KA24E is a four-cylinder 2.4-liter engine that Nissa made from 1988 to 1996. It appears in a variety of Nissan vehicles from this period, such as the Stanza from 1990 to 1992. An oil pump circulates oil through the engine to keep the moving parts lubricated while the engine is running. The oil pump in a KA24E engine consists of an inner and outer gear, which require replacement at the same time.

Instructions

    1

    Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench to prevent the engine from starting. Remove the front engine cover with the oil strainer tube still attached. Discard the gasket for the front engine cover.

    2

    Remove the retaining screw and mounting bolts from the cover of the oil pump with a socket wrench. Detach the cover for the oil pump from the front engine cover. Remove the inner and outer gears for the oil pump from the gear cavity.

    3

    Clean the mating surfaces of the oil pump cover and the gear cavity with a shop rag. Place the new outer gear for the oil pump into the gear cavity. Place the new inner gear into the gear cavity with the grooved side facing up. Ensure the two gears mesh together properly and pack petroleum jelly into the gear cavity.

    4

    Replace the cover for the oil pump and tighten the retainer screws to between 22 and 36 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Tighten the mounting bolts for the oil pump cover to between 12 and 15 foot-pounds.

    5

    Install a new gasket for the front engine cover, and replace the engine cover with a socket wrench. Attach the cable for the negative battery terminal and start the engine. Correct any oil leaks.

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Wednesday, December 4, 2013

How to Make an Oil Dipstick

An oil dipstick is one of the most essential accessories to an engine. If youve lost your dipstick, or if you own an older engine (whether on your vehicle, lawnmower or other motorized item), and the oil dipstick is worn out, replace it promptly. Fortunately, creating your own custom oil dipstick is possible.

Instructions

    1

    Scrub the first 6 to 2 inches of the wire rod using the steel wool. Use a side-to-side rather than up-and-down motion to make scuffs on the rod to help hold the oil for measuring.

    2

    Find the distance from the end of the rod of the "full" mark on the old dipstick using a tape measure. With the wire cutters, lightly crimp the new dipstick at the same point where the old dipstick is marked.

    3

    Make an "L" bend in the rod at the same total length as the old dipstick, using the pliers. This will ensure that you measure properly with the new dipstick, not pushing the rod in too far. Beyond the "L" bend, trim excess length as you please with the wire cutter.

    4

    Create your own "full" mark if you do not have the original dipstick. Find the bottom of the oil pan by inserting the rod into the proper tube in the engine until it stops. Do not force it beyond that point. Carefully mark the dipstick at the top of the tube, and make an "L" bend here with pliers to prevent over-insertion in the future. Trim excess length beyond the "L" bend as you please.

    5

    Add oil to the engine in small but consistent increments, measuring in between each time you add oil. When you notice the oil level increasing much faster between measurements, you have reached the top of the oil pan and should put the "full" mark just below this point.

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Tuesday, December 3, 2013

How to Use a Sportster Oil Tank

Your Sportster engine contains thousands of mostly metal parts that move at up to 5,000 revolutions per minute. The three quarts of oil in your Sportster oil tank minimizes friction between these parts, scavenges worn metal and carbon from gasoline combustion and helps carry excess heat out of the engine through the exhaust. Maintenance on your Sportster oil tank includes checking, adding and changing the oil.

Instructions

    1

    Remove the cap from the top of the oil tank on the right side of the bike. Wipe the dipstick attached to the cap with a clean rag.

    2

    Inspect the oil on the rag. The blacker it is, the more carbon it contains and the more likely the oil is saturated and worn out.

    3

    Reinsert the dipstick fully into the oil tank. Remove the dipstick and look at where the oil is on the dipstick. If the oil level is below the mark on the dipstick that says "add oil" you should add oil.

    4

    Add a third of a quart of 20W-50 motorcycle oil to the oil tank. Read the oil level on the dipstick. If still low, add another third of a quart of oil and read the dipstick again. Repeat these steps until the oil reaches the mark on the dipstick that reads "full."

    5

    Replace the oil in the oil tank at least every 3,000 miles. Begin to drain the oil from the oil tank by removing the oil filler cap.

    6

    Loosen the oil drain hose from the clip under the oil tank with a screwdriver or your fingers. Put a drain pan under the motorcycle.

    7

    Aim the end of the drain hose into the drain pan. Loosen the hose clamp near the end of the drain hose with a screwdriver.

    8

    Remove the metal plug inside the end of the drain hose with a pair of pliers. Drain all the used oil into the drain pan.

    9

    Replace the metal plug and hose clamp and remove the pan. Replace the drain hose in the clip.

    10

    Place the drain pan under the front of the motorcycle. Remove the black or chrome oil filter on the front right of the Sportster with an oil filter wrench.

    11

    Drain the oil from the filter into the drain pan. Clean up spilled oil with rags. Discard the old filter.

    12

    Smear clean oil on the oil filters rubber gasket with your finger to help the gasket swell tight. Hand tighten the new oil filter on the oil filter stud.

    13

    Add three quarts of new oil to the oil tank.

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Tuesday, November 26, 2013

Type of Oil Used in Electric Motors

Type of Oil Used in Electric Motors

Electric motors convert electrical energy into mechanical energy, and are incorporated in different commercial and household applications. These motors require specially developed lubricating materials called motor oils for their continuous and cohesive performance. There are different categories of motor oils, which find their respective distinction mainly on the basis of different chemical compositions and sources of origin. In other words, all categories of motor oil perform similar functions of lubricating the electric motor components, but their categorization is made on the basis of their compositional properties, which define their level of efficiency within an electric motor.

Conventional Oils

    Conventional motor oil is obtained as crude oil, or unrefined petroleum, from the ground, and is further processed through different chemical additives in the refinery. This type of oil is viscous and has a pungent odor, and is specifically used in commercial and industrial electric motors. Conventional motor oil is not refined on the molecular levels, which means it always contains organic and inorganic impurities, and, for this reason, is not employed in sensitive or low-power electrical motors.

Synthetic Oils

    Synthetic motor oil also originates from crude petroleum and is refined, or processed, through extensive chemical procedures. However, this type of oil is constituted by uniform organic molecules and contains a minimum level of impurities. For this reason, synthetic motor oil has minimal odor and can be used in both high- and low-power electric motors. This is in contrast with conventional motor oils, which is constituted by variable molecular sizes and large amount of organic impurities. Some common applications of synthetic motor oils include automobile electric motors, jet engine motors, household water pumps and motorcycle engines.

Semi-synthetic Oils

    Semi-synthetic motor oils are composed by chemical mixing of synthetic and different crude oils in appropriate ratios. This type of oil is less costly than fully synthetic motor oil, and can be used as a cheap replacement in both low- and high-power electric motor applications. Semi-synthetic oil is also known as synthetic blend, and is usually composed within ratios of 30 to 40 percent synthetic and 60 to 70 percent crude organic oils. This proportion indicates the performance level of semi-synthetic motor oils, which increases with increasing ratio of fully synthetic oil within.

Bio-base Oils

    Bio-base oils have long been used as lubricants and heat-absorbing viscous materials. This type of oil includes all biologically existing organic liquids, which have been used as fuels as well as lubricants in different household tasks. However, this type of oil is not used in industry for lubricating electric motors, and is specifically employed in the form of grease or wax in small household electric motor applications like fans, hand blowers and miscellaneous power tools.

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Sunday, November 24, 2013

What Causes Low Oil Pressure in a 1989 Camaro TBI

Low oil pressure can be extremely damaging to an engine. It is also a good prognosticator of a more serious problem. This is something that you do not want to allow to continue because it will cause severe damage to your engine or even destroy it. Being able to diagnose these issues is a skill that the average car owner can acquire.

Oil Viscosity

    Using an oil with a viscosity that is too heavy will cause the pressure to run low. One way to fix this is to try a thinner oil. Make sure to read the owners manual and change the oil to a viscosity that is appropriate for your area and climate.

Clogged Oil Filter

    Check the oil filter to make sure that it is not clogged with debris. Sometimes a large clump or grit will build up and cause the filter to clog. An oil change can fix the problem.

Oil Pump is Failing

    Failure of the oil pump is another issue. If the oil pump is beginning to go out it will cause the oil pressure to drop. These need to be professionally checked.

Bad Oil Gauge

    Failure of the oil gauge is also a possibility. Before taking the oil pan off or getting a major repair you should have the cars oil pressure checked by a local auto store. They will do this for free, and this will back up the result you are getting from your oil pressure gauge. A professional needs to repair this issue.

Faulty Gaskets

    Examine the gaskets around the engine head and around the oil pan underneath the car. The best way to do this is to wipe the edges clean with a cloth and then drive or run the car for a few minutes. Make sure that you do get the oil warmed up, since this will allow it to leak and show you where the issue is. If you see large amounts of oil leaking, this can force the engine oil pressure to drop.

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Friday, November 15, 2013

How to Reset the Change Oil Lights in a 2006 Ford Explorer

How to Reset the Change Oil Lights in a 2006 Ford Explorer

The 2006 Ford Explorer has a message display feature that informs the driver of several maintenance procedures that should be performed over time. One of these procedures is changing the engine oil. When the oil is low, the message display will show "CHANGE OIL." After the oil is changed, however, the message display must be reset manually. You should reset this display every time you change the oil, which should be done every 5,000 miles or 180 days.

Instructions

    1

    Locate the "TRIP/RESET" button on your vehicles control switch. Press and hold the "TRIP/RESET" button to select the "SYSTEM CHECK" option. This will cause the message display to cycle through each of the systems being monitored. "OIL LIFE RESET" will be the first system displayed.

    2

    Depress the "TRIP/RESET" button then select "OIL LIFE RESET." The message display will show "HOLD RESET IF NEW OIL."

    3

    Press and hold the "TRIP/RESET" button for more than two seconds to reset the engine oil life. Once the procedure has been completed, "OIL LIFE SET TO 100%" will be displayed.

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Friday, November 1, 2013

Oil Filter Alternatives for Harley Davidson

Oil Filter Alternatives for Harley Davidson

Harley Davidson brand motorcycles utilize three main spin-on oil filter types depending upon the model. Each type of filter is distinguished by general size, thread size, bypass valve, and anti-drain back valve compatibility. In addition, each of the three types are available from a variety of manufacturers available at major retailers and auto supply stores, as well as through specialty motorcycle part suppliers. The model and year of the motorcycle determines the correct spin-on oil filter to be used.

3 Inch to 3.5 Inch Length

    The most common oil filter for Harley Davidson motorcycles, additional specifications for this oil filter include 3/4 inch by 16 tpi threads, 8 psi bypass valve, and an anti-drain back valve. This size oil filter is best suited for several Harley Davidson models. It is used for the Harley Davidson XL Sportster manufactured from 1984 to 2007, the XLH Sportster, manufactured from 1954 to 1987; FLH model, manufactured from 1953 to 1982; the CH6060 FX, manufactured from 1983 to 1987; Evo 80, manufactured from 1984 to 1999; Evo 88, manufactured from 1999 to 2006; and Evo 96, manufactured from 2007 to the present. The following models of this oil filter type are available: Purolator PL14476 / PL14477, Mobil1 M1-102, Bosch 3330, Walmart Supertech ST4967/4386, AMSOil SMF 133/134/135, Baldwin B33/B37, Fram PH4967, Hastings LF410/LF 413, NAPA 1394, Purolator ML16822, and WIX 51394/51396.

2.5 Inch to 3.5 Inch Length

    Utilized only in the V-Rod Harley Davidson model motorcycles, all years, this filter boasts 20 by 1.5 millimeter threads, a 14 psi pass valve, an anti-drain pass valve, and a 2.3 inch O.D. gasket. The following models of this oil filter type are available: AC Delco PF2135, AMSOil SMF103, Carquest 85358, AC Delco PF2135, FRAM PH6017A, Honda 15410-MCJ-000, K&N KN-204, NAPA Gold 1358, Purolator ML16817, STP SMO 17, and WIX 51358.

Various Lengths

    The final type of oil valve utilized in Harley Davidson motorcycles, is also the second most common but does not have the standard length seen in the other models. This type of filter is used in FX model bikes manufactured from 1971 to 1982, as well as CH6067 FXE, FXS and FXWG models manufactured from 1982 to1986. Specifications for the filter include 16 by 1.5 millimeter threads, an 8 psi bypass valve, and an anti-drain back valve. The following models of this oil filter type are available: AMSOil SMF 132/132C, EMGO 10-26980, Fram PH6019 and PH6074, K&N KN-153, NAPA 7013 and WIX 57013.

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Wednesday, October 16, 2013

Why Is There Oil All Over My Manifold Exhaust Pipe

Why Is There Oil All Over My Manifold Exhaust Pipe?

Oil on the exhaust manifold or blue smoke spewing out of the tailpipe is commonly caused from a compromised gasket or cracked exhaust manifold. The head gasket is the main seal protecting the engine cylinders from engine oil. A compromised head gasket or O-ring will allow oil into the cylinders and exhaust manifold piping.

Exhaust Manifold Function

    The exhaust manifold is secured directly to the individual engine cylinder ports. Exhaust gases expel from the combustion chamber into the exhaust manifold before moving towards the tailpipe. There must be an airtight seal between the manifold pipes and the cylinder ports.

Blue Smoke

    Blue exhaust smoke may be coming from your tailpipe. Blue smoke indicates oil in the cylinder ports and then exhaust manifold -- a sign that a gasket or O-ring protecting the cylinders from oil has failed.

Diagnosing A Compromised Exhaust Manifold

    Oil commonly enters the inner portion of the exhaust piping after leaking through the cylinder ports but it is possible for oil to find its way onto the external portion of the piping. This occurs one of three ways: a crack in the manifold piping, a compromised exhaust manifold gasket or a blown oil seal. In any case, an engine oil seal has failed.

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