So Fix it

Oil leaking from an automobile may have numerous sources, and many car owners overlook the shocks as a possible culprit. Shocks use oil to dampen the movements of the vehicle, and this function can sometimes lead to a leak.

Location of Shock Leak

Most automobile suspensions use struts on the front wheels of the vehicle and shocks on the rear. Shocks will leak oil just inside the rear wheels of the vehicle. Struts also use oil and may also leak. Oil leaking from a shock may run down the shock or drip onto other suspension components or the vehicles frame.

Inspecting Shocks for Leaks

To locate the leak, wipe away any dirt or grime from the shock. After cleaning, drive the vehicle and recheck the shock for fresh oil. A leaking shock will also work less effectively. You can check its functionality by shoving down and then releasing the corner of the vehicle with the suspect shock. If the shock is working properly, the car will settle back to the original position without bouncing.

Dealing with Leaks

A leaking shock has either a corroded body or a failed seal. In either case the shock will require replacement. Shocks should be replaced in pairs, even if only one side has failed. The result of replacing both shocks at once will be an even amount of suspension support on each side of the vehicle.

The advantage of lower shocks is that shorter riders feet can more easily touch the ground. Traditional, externally mounted shock absorbers on any Harley should not be disassembled and must be replaced as an assembly. Sportster shocks are usually 13.5 inches long. Replacement shocks are available in 11.5, 12, 12.5 and 13 inch lengths. This is how to swap them out. The procedure is the essentially the same for all Sportsters, all Dynas and all touring models.

Instructions

1

Raise the Harley on a motorcycle jack until the rear tire is off the ground. This aids access to the inside of the rear fender. Make sure the motorcycle is stable.

2

Remove both saddlebags. Hold the nut inside the fender with a box wrench and turn the bolt head inside your saddlebag with a socket wrench if you have bolt on bags.

3

Remove both bolts that secure both saddlebags. Save the nuts, bolts and washers from both bags for reuse.

4

Remove the Allen bolt and washer on the fender tab at the back of your seat if you have throw-over bags. Remove the seat then remove the throw-over bags.

5

Lower the motorcycle jack until both tires are on the ground and both shock absorbers are relaxed. Leave the jack sufficiently elevated so the bike is upright and resting on the jack rather than leaning left on the jiffy stand.

6

Immobilize the lower shock nut on either of the shock absorbers with a box wrench. Loosen the lower shock mounting bolt with an Allen wrench. Remove the bolt, nut and washer and save for reuse.

7

Loosen the upper shock mounting bolt with an Allen wrench and remove upper shock mounting bolt, washer and cover. Save this hardware for reuse.

8

Remove the opposite shock absorber using the same procedure.

9

Lower the motorcycle jack approximately two inches. Apply thread locker to the lower shock mounting bolt and begin to install the shorter, replacement shock absorber using the same lower bolt, washer and nut.

10

Apply thread locker to the upper shock mounting bolt and finish installing the shorter replacement shock absorber using the upper bolt, washer and cover. Repeat the same procedures on the opposite side of the motorcycle.

11

Reinstall the saddlebags as needed. Reinstall the seat as needed. Completely lower and remove the motorcycle jack.

Harley-Davidson insists that only the shock absorbers on its Softail models may be disassembled. All other Harley shock absorbers must be replaced as an assembly. Harley sells a Softail lowering kit that requires you to disassemble the Softail shock absorbers. And Progressive Suspension sells a press that helps with the disassembly of Softail shocks. Its also possible to improvise similar presses. Actual disassembly of the shocks is simple and straightforward.

Instructions

1

Clean the rear fork end of the shock near the shock canister seal as thoroughly as possible with grease remover and clean rags.

2

Place the flat end of the shock canister on wooden block or blocks if you are disassembling the shock on a hydraulic press. Leave two inches of space between the end of the hydraulic ram and the top of the long eye. The long eye is the rod that extends from the end of the shock canister.

3

Place the flat end of the shock canister in the canister container ring and lower the mechanical ram until it touches the end of the long eye if you are using the Progressive Suspension tool.

4

Compress the spring in the canister by applying pressure from the hydraulic or mechanical ram to the top of the long eye until the shock absorber keeper plate drops down from the retaining ring.

5

Remove the retaining ring with a dentists pick or a mechanics pick.

6

Release the mechanical or hydraulic pressure on the end of the long eye from the shock tool or hydraulic press. Separate the parts when the long eye is not longer under pressure.

7

Remove the shock damper and spring plate assembly from the canister

8

Line the jaws of a vise with aluminum vise jaw pads. Place the shock damper assembly in the vise so the long eye is secured in the vise jaws.

9

Heat the long eye and long eye lock nut with a heat gun to loosen the thread locker on the assembly. Loosen the spring plate lock nut with a wrench and spin the nut four or five times for clearance.

10

Unscrew the damper shaft from the long eye mount with a wrench. Remove the spring plate and lock nut from the long eye mount.