So Fix it

Raise the rear of your Ford Bronco with a jack and support it with a set of jack stands. Slide under the truck and locate the fuel lines on the fittings at the front of the fuel tank. Remove the hose clamps from the lines with a flat screwdriver and remove the lines from the tank fittings.

Position the jack under the center of the fuel tank skid plate and place a wide piece of wood between it and the tank skid. Raise the jack just enough to support the tank then remove the retaining bolts around the perimeter of the tank skid with a socket and ratchet.

Lower the jack slowly, until the filler neck hose from the body to the tank is accessible. Remove the hose clamp from the filler hose and the vent hose next to it with a flat screwdriver. Slide the hoses off the tank.

Slowly lower the jack, lowering the fuel tank and skid plate out of the frame. Once it is low enough, slide the jack back, bring the fuel tank and skid plate with it.

Remove the tank from the jack and set it somewhere safe. Outside or in a well ventilated area if perred as the tank will still have some fuel vapors in it even if completely empty.

Connect the air compressor to the air tank with an air hose and two air hose fittings. Regulate the pressure of the compressed air released from the air tank with an air pressure gauge. Use the regulated compressed air with a pressurized air line and detachable fittings.

Drop a one foot length of light chain into the gas tank through the filler opening. Shake the tank to loosen and remove any rust inside the tank. Remove the chain.

Turn the tank upside down and shake vigorously. Attach a blower fitting to a pressurized air line. Blast the inside of the tank with pressurized air.

Seal the petcock opening on the bottom of the gas tank with an air hose fitting attached to a pressurized air line. If necessary, install a fuel petcock and fit the air hose to the petcock with a hose fitting and a flat head screwdriver.

Prepare a solution of 50 percent dish washing detergent and 50 percent water. Adjust the air pressure leaving the compressed air tank to 15 pounds per square inch above atmosphere.

Seal the gas cap and pressurize the inside of the gas tank to 15 pounds per square inch above atmosphere. Paint the exterior of the gas tank with the detergent-water solution using a paint brush.

Look for air bubbles. Any air bubble indicates a leak and a defective gas tank.

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. This prevents the accidental discharge of fuel during the fuel pump replacement. Detach the electrical wiring harness and fuel lines from the fuel pump.

Siphon the fuel from the fuel tank into a container approved for gasoline. Place a floor jack under the vehicle and support the fuel tank with a floor jack. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the fuel tank with a socket wrench and release the retaining straps for the fuel tank. Lower the floor jack to remove the fuel tank from the vehicle.

Attach special tool 6856 to the lock nut on the fuel pump and connect a socket wrench to the special tool. Turn the lock nut for the fuel pump counterclockwise with the socket wrench and remove the lock nut from the fuel pump. Lift the fuel pump out of the fuel tank.

Install the new fuel pump into the fuel tank and attach its lock nut. Fasten the lock nut by turning it clockwise with a socket wrench and special tool 6856.

Raise the fuel tank in position with the floor jack. Attach the retaining straps to the fuel tank and connect the mounting bolts to the fuel tank with a socket wrench. Lower the floor jack.

Attach the fuel line and wiring harness to the fuel pump. Connect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench. Fill the fuel tank with fuel, start the engine and check for fuel leaks.

Remove the cap from the top of the oil tank on the right side of the bike. Wipe the dipstick attached to the cap with a clean rag.

Inspect the oil on the rag. The blacker it is, the more carbon it contains and the more likely the oil is saturated and worn out.

Reinsert the dipstick fully into the oil tank. Remove the dipstick and look at where the oil is on the dipstick. If the oil level is below the mark on the dipstick that says "add oil" you should add oil.

Add a third of a quart of 20W-50 motorcycle oil to the oil tank. Read the oil level on the dipstick. If still low, add another third of a quart of oil and read the dipstick again. Repeat these steps until the oil reaches the mark on the dipstick that reads "full."

Replace the oil in the oil tank at least every 3,000 miles. Begin to drain the oil from the oil tank by removing the oil filler cap.

Loosen the oil drain hose from the clip under the oil tank with a screwdriver or your fingers. Put a drain pan under the motorcycle.

Aim the end of the drain hose into the drain pan. Loosen the hose clamp near the end of the drain hose with a screwdriver.

Remove the metal plug inside the end of the drain hose with a pair of pliers. Drain all the used oil into the drain pan.

Replace the metal plug and hose clamp and remove the pan. Replace the drain hose in the clip.

Place the drain pan under the front of the motorcycle. Remove the black or chrome oil filter on the front right of the Sportster with an oil filter wrench.

Drain the oil from the filter into the drain pan. Clean up spilled oil with rags. Discard the old filter.

Smear clean oil on the oil filters rubber gasket with your finger to help the gasket swell tight. Hand tighten the new oil filter on the oil filter stud.

Add three quarts of new oil to the oil tank.