So Fix it

Check the fuses first by locating the fuse panel. On the Ford Taurus, you will note that there is a fuse box under the hood as well as another one under the driver-side foot well. The fuses for the electric power windows are on the underside of the foot well and near the steering column.

Unclip the panel and reveal the fuses. Take out the appropriate fuses that correspond to the power windows and check their condition. Good fuses will be clean and silver with a good connection to the circuit.

Assess the condition of the electrical switches. If all four windows are working intermittently but not fully operational for the remainder of the time, the problem could lie in the relay switch. If one window is having trouble but the other three are all working correctly, it could be the motor for that particular window. Usually the drivers window is the first to fail because it gets far more use than the others.

Remove the door panel by unclipping the plastic grommets and the screws around the door. One small screw will be located just above the door latch on the inside of the panel. Pop the panel off and locate the screw inside the door pull.

Unclip the switch cover and dislocate the relay plugs from the connectors inside the door panel. You will note that they are bundled up inside the metal door skin. Check the plug connections and replace them. If the windows still do not work, you may need to replace the motor for the window. The motor is attached to the bottom of an "X" shaped frame inside the door skin and is a small, silver and black barrel in the lower center of the frame. These are hard to remove, so you may need to take your car to a mechanic to have the motor replaced.

Locate the battery in the engine compartment of your Outback, then disconnect the negative battery cable end (after loosening the clamp bolt of the cable), using a wrench. Isolate the cable end from the battery to avoid accidentally energizing the ignition system while you are working.

Pick one spark plug wire located on the top of the engine and follow it down to the spark plug. Grasp the plug wire boot and while twisting it back and forth, pull it off the plug. Do not pull on the wire itself, or you will risk damaging it beyond repair. Lay the wire aside.

Place a spark plug socket over the plug and attach a ratchet to it. Rotate the spark plug counterclockwise until it is free of the cylinder head, then remove it from the engine compartment.

Remove the new spark plug from the box, and using a feeler gauge, verify that the plug gap is set to between .039 to .043 by sliding the appropriate blade from the feeler gauge between the electrode and the base of the spark plug. If the plug gap is outside the specified range, adjust it by tapping it closed or open, as needed.

Install the new spark plug into the hole in the cylinder head and tighten it by turning it clockwise with the spark plug socket and ratchet until it is snug. Turn it 1/4-turn more, then remove the socket and ratchet.

Put a small amount of dielectric grease on the inside of the spark plug wire boot. The grease will repel water, ensuring a good connection, and it will allow the boot to come off the plug easier next time you change the plugs.

Move to the next cylinder and repeat the process until you have changed all four plugs. Do not remove more than one plug wire at any time during the process, to avoid mixing up the wires and scrabbling the firing order.

Install the negative battery cable end on the battery and tighten the clamp bolt on the cable end. Start the engine to verify that the engine runs as intended.

Disconnect the cable on the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench so that you dont accidentally start the engine. Remove the cover for the timing belt cover. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the timing mark on the crankshaft with the mark on the housing of the oil pump.

Place the long end of a 3mm Allen wrench into the pin hole of the timing belt tensioner. Rotate the tensioner counterclockwise with an 8mm Allen wrench until the handle of the 3mm Allen wrench slides into the hole.

Detach the timing belt from the crankshaft and camshaft. Hold the camshaft sprocket in place with a spanner wrench. Remove the mounting bolt for the camshaft sprocket and disconnect the sprocket from the camshaft.

Connect the camshaft sprocket to the camshaft and tighten the mounting bolts with a socket wrench. Turn the crankshaft sprocket clockwise to align its timing marks, then turn the crankshaft sprocket three notches counterclockwise. Turn the camshaft sprocket clockwise to align its timing marks.

Install the timing belt onto the crankshaft and continue in the counterclockwise direction. Place the timing belt on the water pump sprocket, idler pulley, camshaft sprocket and belt tensioner pulley in that order. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to take up the slack in the timing belt and align the timing marks on the crankshaft.

Remove the long handle of the 3mm Allen wrench from the pin hole in the belt tensioner to apply tension to the timing belt. Turn the crankshaft two full turns clockwise and align the timing marks. Replace the timing belt cover with a socket wrench, and connect the negative battery cable.

Unscrew the rear view mirror screw and slip the mirror out.

Remove each windshield wiper by lifting them up and prying up the base with a large flathead screwdriver. Put the screwdriver between the retaining nut and the arm of each wiper. Move the arm back and forth as you pry to remove the arm. Set the windshield wiper arms aside.

Tape over all dashboard vents to protect them from small pieces of glass.

Remove the rubber gasket from around the windshield using a razor knife. Try not to touch the windshield glass with the knife. Push the windshield out of the vehicle from inside the Chevy as your assistant catches it from the outside.

Clean the frame, the gasket and the dashboard with a clean wet cloth. Leave the replacement gasket in a warm, sunny place for a few hours to make it more flexible.

Place a layer of sealant on the gaskets bottom part in the channel. Slip the gasket onto the windshield, taking care to put the side with the slit facing outside of the vehicle.

Spread petroleum jelly into the gaskets outer groove and line a heavy nylon cord around the groove beginning with the bottom center part of the windshield and going all the way around. Leave a foot of cord loose and dangling down at each end.

Place the windshield into the windshield frame from outside of the Silverado, making sure you leave the loose rope hanging inside the vehicle.

Tug slowly on the cord to pull the gasket inside the vehicle. Have your assistant push the gasket to the outside of the windshield frame while you are pulling from the inside. Allow the sealant to cure for 24 hours before driving.

Open the door on the drivers side of the Blazer and find the data/diagnostic link connector, known as DLC, on the lower part of the dashboard. It can be found near the parking brake pedal.

Plug the scanner into the DLC.

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "ACC" position, but dont start the engine.

Press the "Erase" key on the scanner to erase the codes and reset the computer. Each scanner is a bit different depending on the manufacturer. So the code may be "Delete" instead or something similar.

Wait for the menu on the scanner to indicate the task has been completed.

Unplug the scanner and start the engine. Examine the instrument panel to make sure all warning and service lights have turned off.