So Fix it

Problems with the catalytic converter on your Mercedes, or any vehicle for that matter, are often more difficult to deal with than most drivers realize because it is illegal to tamper with a catalytic converter in any way. This means it is illegal to attempt to fix your Mercedes catalytic converter by any means other than having an approved certified mechanic replace it.



There are both federal and state laws governing the removal and replacement of catalytic converters on vehicles. The noise your catalytic converter is making indicates a problem that may cause your Mercedes to fail an emissions test or land you a number of federal fines from the Environmental Protection Agency if not handled properly. It is only legal to remove it if the noise is affecting its function.

Instructions

1

Check the warranty. Your Mercedes may not be covered by the federally mandated Environmental Protection Agency warranty. Federal law emissions warranty specifies that if your car was manufactured before 1996, the catalytic converter is still under warranty only if the car has less than 50,000 miles on it. If the car was manufactured after 1996, the car is legally required to have more than 80,000 miles on it or be more than eight years old to be out of warranty.

Some Mercedes vehicles have documented issues with the catalytic converters. Mercedes reached a settlement with the EPA to extend the emissions warranties on these vehicles.

2

Take your Mercedes to the dealership, or a mechanic who regularly handles these cars, and have the catalytic converter tested. You will need to go to a mechanic who is familiar with the cars exhaust system requirements and has access to original equipment manufacturer, or OEM, exhaust parts. The converter used to replace your Mercedes converter must be identical to the original Mercedes catalytic converter.

If your car is still covered by the federal warranty, it will need to be taken to the Mercedes dealership.

3

Have the mechanic thoroughly document the problem with the converter, then, if necessary, replace it with an identical new converter. Documentation of the problem is a legal requirement if the converter needs to be replaced.

Since tampering with converters is illegal, your noisy converter will probably be replaced. If the converter is still functioning, the mechanic is not legally allowed to remove it.

4

Make sure the mechanic also fills out a warranty card as required by federal law. Save a copy of everything for your records in case of emissions inspection problems at a later date.

The Mercedes E320 CDI was the first BlueTec diesel Mercedes sold in the U.S. A 3.2-liter diesel engine powered the rear-wheel drive sedan through a six-speed automatic transmission. A driveshaft transfers toque from the transmission in the front of the car to the differential in the rear. However, the driveshaft is exposed on the underbody and can be damaged by debris. A damaged driveshaft must be replaced.

Instructions

1

Drive or tow the Mercedes E320 CDI someplace flat and out of the way. When the driveshaft is removed, the car will be undriveable. The car can be pushed but it will be difficult because the E320 weighs close to 2 tons. Place the Mercedes into park and then turn the car off. Use a car jack to lift the front and rear corners of the E320. Then use jack stands to keep the corners elevated.

2

Locate the driveshaft running down the center of the undercarriage. The driveshaft is connected by flex joints at the front and rear of the shaft. The flex joints in turn are connected to the transmission and rear differential with six bolt flanges. Use the car jack to support the transmission end of the shaft first. Then unbolt the six bolts securing the transmission end flex joint. Once the bolt flange is free, lower it to the ground with the car jack.

3

Raise the car jack up to support the differential end of the driveshaft. Then unbolt the six bolts securing the flex joint to the differential. Lower the driveshaft down with the car jack. Roll the driveshaft out from under the sedan and place it to the side. If you install a new driveshaft, just repeat the removal process in reverse.

Mounted to the intake manifold on the back of the Mercedes 300D engine, the EGR valve is responsible for recirculating any exhaust fumes back through the engine to be burned a second time before being sent through the exhaust pipe. The Mercedes 300D EGR valve is connected to the engine with two bolts and can be removed in just a few of minutes. You can save time and money by removing the EGR valve yourself.

Instructions

1

Locate the EGR valve of the Mercedes 300D in the back of the engine on the drivers side of the engine compartment. The EGR valve is a circular metal device with a vacuum hose attached to the top of the valve.

2

Remove the vacuum hose from the top of the EGR valve by hand and set it out of the way.

3

Unfasten the two bolts on the sides of the EGR valve with a socket wrench that secures the part to the engine.

4

Remove the EGR valve from the Mercedes 300D engine compartment.

The 1992 C190e is an entry-level four-door sedan produced by Mercedes Benz. It was well engineered, offering reasonable comfort, and cost less to operate than its sibling, the C190. Rear seat and trunk space are limited. However, front seat occupants enjoy plenty of room. Available with a choice of automatic or manual transmissions, the C190e came equipped with a 2.3L four-cylinder engine that produced 130 hp. The car had standard ASR traction control, and returned just over 20 mpg.

What to Watch For

Some automatic transmissions suffered from sluggish shifts, due to a faulty vacuum modulator. On early models the cruise control function was unable to smoothly maintain the desired speed selection, and would often jerk, especially on an incline.

Engine Trouble

While not particularly problematic, the four-cylinder found in the C190e did have some specific recurring issues. An intermittent engine misfire was routinely reported due to fouled or worn-out spark plugs/wires. This would often generate a code, alerting the driver via a check engine light located in the instrument panel. In rare instances, the capacitors inside the vehicles ECU (electronic control unit) would leak slightly, causing a similar behavior. Erratic or drifting idle, is another concern where the engine rpm is unable to stabilize at the correct level. This is usually associated with a faulty idle speed control unit, but can be quickly identified and repaired.

Cost of Ownership

Being a Mercedes, expect a higher average cost for parts than a comparable domestic vehicle. An alternator will run you a cool $440, while a factory air-conditioning compressor costs $1035. However, a radiator comes in at a more reasonable $150, and a new set of brakes is only $190. Most parts can be installed by any licensed mechanic at the same hourly labor rate as other cars. Wherever possible, find aftermarket parts, as these often meet or exceed OEM (original equipment manufacturer) specifications, and ring in at a fraction of the cost. (All prices current as of 2011.)

The chassis number of a 1983 Mercedes is six digits and can be found on a metal data plate on the car or on a data card in the owners documents. If you need to order new parts for your Mercedes, it is necessary to provide the chassis number. The first three digits of the chassis number represent the body style. The last three numbers represent the specific car, such as a coupe or a convertible.

Instructions

1

Pull the hood release, then open the hood.

2

Look for the metal plate stamped into the body frame near the radiator. The six-digit chassis number will be printed on the metal plate. For a 1983 Mercedes, the chassis number will start with "123," "126" or "107."

3

Consult your owners documents given to you when you purchased the car. Included with the documents should be a data card with all the important identification numbers for your vehicle. The chassis number will be printed there.