So Fix it

Threadlock compound is a paste-like or liquid substance designed to seal the threads of metallic nuts and bolts. After applying threadlocker compound to the threads of a bolt, the substance will harden, providing an airtight and waterproof seal. Many automotive, industrial and hobby applications call for the use of threadlocker during assembly and repair tasks associated with certain components. Removing this hardened compound from a nut is an easy task, with the correct tools and supplies available.

Instructions

1

Peel off any thick portions of the threadlock from the nut, using a pair of small tweezers to gain access to the threads.

2

Apply a liberal amount of comparable threadlocker to the threaded portion of the nut. Allow the applied compound to soak into the threads and soften the old hardened threadlock.

3

Wipe off the threadlock, using a clean shop rag or paper towel. Put on a pair of thick leather gloves and clean out the remaining threadlocker with a sharp hobby knife. If any residue remains on the threads, move on to the next steps.

4

Secure the nut with a C-clamp or bench vice. Apply heat to the nut, using a lighter or propane torch. Do not operate the lighter or torch around flammable liquids, gasses or solid materials. Heat the nut until the hardened threadlock turns to ash.

5

Allow the nut to cool sufficiently. Remove the nut from the clamp and clean out any remaining residue from the threads, using the hobby knife. Wipe off the outside portion of the nut with a clean towel to complete the process.

Threadlock compound is a paste-like or liquid substance designed to seal the threads of metallic nuts and bolts. After applying threadlocker compound to the threads of a bolt, the substance will harden, providing an airtight and waterproof seal. Many automotive, industrial and hobby applications call for the use of threadlocker during assembly and repair tasks associated with certain components. Removing this hardened compound from a nut is an easy task, with the correct tools and supplies available.

Instructions

1

Peel off any thick portions of the threadlock from the nut, using a pair of small tweezers to gain access to the threads.

2

Apply a liberal amount of comparable threadlocker to the threaded portion of the nut. Allow the applied compound to soak into the threads and soften the old hardened threadlock.

3

Wipe off the threadlock, using a clean shop rag or paper towel. Put on a pair of thick leather gloves and clean out the remaining threadlocker with a sharp hobby knife. If any residue remains on the threads, move on to the next steps.

4

Secure the nut with a C-clamp or bench vice. Apply heat to the nut, using a lighter or propane torch. Do not operate the lighter or torch around flammable liquids, gasses or solid materials. Heat the nut until the hardened threadlock turns to ash.

5

Allow the nut to cool sufficiently. Remove the nut from the clamp and clean out any remaining residue from the threads, using the hobby knife. Wipe off the outside portion of the nut with a clean towel to complete the process.

Catalytic converters, also called "cats," absorb exhaust heat, and should, ideally, be as close as possible to the exhaust manifold for emissions compliance. This placement varies by make and model and can have a significant impact on performance.

The Y-Pipe

V-type engines often use y-shaped pieces of tubing to join the cylinder banks exhaust streams before entering into the converter. Converters are often bolted right to the back of this Y-pipe.

Direct Connection

Many manufacturers, such as Honda and Toyota, are becoming known for bolting the catalytic converters right to the exhaust manifold outlet, with nothing in between.

Down Tubes

Most turbocharged engines use a down tube, which is a smooth piece of tubing that allows a turbos exhaust flow to move away smoothly, before encountering the restrictive cat.

Oxygen Sensor

All new vehicles have an oxygen (O2) sensor somewhere between the exhaust manifold and cat. This works in conjunction with an after-cat O2 sensor to notify the engine control computer of any converter malfunction.

Exhaust Brakes

Large diesel trucks often have a large valve in between the cat and manifold, known as an exhaust or "Jacobs" brake. When closed, these valves create back pressure in the engine and allow a driver to control downhill acceleration without using the foot brake.

An engines firing order is the sequence that each cylinder is used in power delivery. The firing order for the 6.6L turbo diesel V8 in the 2004 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 2WD is 1-2-7-8-4-5-6-3.

Gasoline Versus Diesel

In a gasoline engine, the distributor or Engine Control Unit sends electricity to individual spark plugs to ignite fuel in each cylinder in a specific order. In a diesel engine it is determined by the order in which fuel is injected into each cylinder.

Cylinder 1

Engine firing orders always start with cylinder number one, which on this engine is located at the front left of the engine from the drivers point of view.

Cylinder Banks

GM V8 cylinders are numbered 1-3-5-7 on the left (drivers) side of the engine, and 2-4-6-8 on the right (passenger) side.

When working correctly, a catalytic converter cleans up the pollution that stems from your vehicles exhaust. The life expectancy of this part is well above 90,000 miles. However, because some issues can affect this estimate, its wise to test the converter for problems that could shorten its life.

Map Sensor

One way to test the efficiency of a catalytic converter is by disconnecting its MAP sensor. Doing this is supposed to make the converters temperature go up, which indicates no trouble. If the temperature remains the same, the catalyst has likely gone bad. It should also be kept in mind that an error code will occur once the MAP sensor is disconnected.

Plug Wire

By undoing and grounding a plug wire, you can create an overflow of hydrocarbons within the vehicles exhaust pipe. If the temperature goes up drastically, the converter is fine. This test should should not be run for more than two minutes because of the risk that it could damage the converter.

Exhaust Analyzer

An exhaust analyzer can also be used to check the performance of a catalytic converter to ensure that it reaches its life expectancy. This equipment can notify you if emissions levels are too high by taking readings at the exhaust pipe. An exhaust analyzer costs between $2,000 and $6,000.

When working correctly, a catalytic converter cleans up the pollution that stems from your vehicles exhaust. The life expectancy of this part is well above 90,000 miles. However, because some issues can affect this estimate, its wise to test the converter for problems that could shorten its life.

Map Sensor

One way to test the efficiency of a catalytic converter is by disconnecting its MAP sensor. Doing this is supposed to make the converters temperature go up, which indicates no trouble. If the temperature remains the same, the catalyst has likely gone bad. It should also be kept in mind that an error code will occur once the MAP sensor is disconnected.

Plug Wire

By undoing and grounding a plug wire, you can create an overflow of hydrocarbons within the vehicles exhaust pipe. If the temperature goes up drastically, the converter is fine. This test should should not be run for more than two minutes because of the risk that it could damage the converter.

Exhaust Analyzer

An exhaust analyzer can also be used to check the performance of a catalytic converter to ensure that it reaches its life expectancy. This equipment can notify you if emissions levels are too high by taking readings at the exhaust pipe. An exhaust analyzer costs between $2,000 and $6,000.

Turn signals operate by the opening and closing of a switch, or relay, which interrupts the electrical signal to the light. The switch operates in cadence based upon the electrical signal entering into the relay. Drivers of older vehicles with electrical problems may notice that the relay goes faster when the engine revs up, and slows down when the engine idles. An older relay will also begin to slow down as the electrical contacts in the switch begin to wear out. Speeding up the flashing of the turn signal merely requires installing a new turn signal relay.

Instructions

1

Turn the vehicle to "ON" and activate the turn signal.

2

Trace the location of the signal by listening for the clicking sound of the relay. Most relays are housed to the left of the steering column, mounted against the firewall in a bundle of wire connections. The relay is a usually a silver cylinder about 1 inch tall. Some newer models use a black box for the relay. You can both hear and feel the clicking of the switch while the signal is active.

3

Remove any necessary trim or dash panels to access the relay using a screwdriver or socket wrench as necessary.

4

Turn the vehicle off and remove the key.

5

Disconnect the old relay by pulling the wiring harness out of the electrical connection. You may have to unscrew a few retaining screws from the relay. Install the new relay in the reverse of the removal of the original. Start the vehicle and activate the turn signal to test. You will notice the signal is faster. Reinstall any dash or trim panels you removed.

The Ford 5.4l engine first debuted in the newly redesigned 1997 F-150. Upon introduction, the engine was primarily used as a truck engine. It has since debuted as a "performance" engine in the North American and Australian markets.

Power

The 5.4l engine is among Fords most powerful. Early versions were rolled out in Fords pickup truck line. These engines produced between 255 and 260 horsepower. Today, a version used in the Ford Shelby GT 500 produces 550 hp and 510 foot pounds of torque.

Physical Specifications

The 5.4l engine has a bore diameter of 90.2 mm, while featuring a stroke of 105.8 mm. The engine has a 169.1 mm connecting rod. This combination achieves a 1.60:1 rod-to-stroke ratio.

Versatility

The highly versatile engine is available in two-, three- and four-valve per cylinder designs. The four-valve engine can also be super-charged (use of a compressor to provide more air flow) to produce extra power. These supercharged engines have been used to power Fords top-end performers, such as the Shelby GT 500 and Ford GT.

Car problems can be frustrating, especially when youre trying to get somewhere important. Before calling a professional mechanic to take a look at your Honda that wont start, try a few tips to solve the problem.

Reasons

There are several reasons why your Honda engine might turn over, but not turn on. It might be a problem with the fueling system or the ignition system. Either not enough gas is getting to the engine or the engine is not combusting fuel.

Location

First, confirm that you have sufficient gasoline in the tank. If you do, then go to the fuel tank at the back of the vehicle. Crawl underneath the vehicle and check the fuel tank for holes. Follow the fuel line from the fuel tank to the engine. Look for corrosion along the fuel line which might indicate a fuel leak. Check components that are often in need of maintenance, such as the fuel filter, fuel pump, spark plug and starter.

Troubleshooting

Put at least two gallons of gas in your fuel tank and immediately try to start your vehicle. This should cover the possibility of an empty fuel tank. Your fuel filter, fuel pump and spark plugs are easily replaceable; replace these components. If you have some automotive knowledge, you might be able to check and replace the camshaft mounted near the top of the engine as well. Also, check your catalytic converter, located underneath the vehicle, to make sure it is not warped or damaged. Consult a professional mechanic if the problem continues.

Most likely you have multiple oxygen sensors in your Jeep Cherokee. Figuring out which one needs to be replaced will be more challenging than actually replacing it. A code reader can condemn and position a particular oxygen sensor, but since the sensors average around $75 or more a piece, you might consider leaving the code reading up to a professional. Most parts stores that sell quality direct-fit oxygen sensors usually have code readers and can find out the information for you at no charge as long as you purchase the part you need from them.
Once you have the required information and tools, you can change the oxygen sensor on your vehicle.

Instructions

How to Change the Oxygen Sensor to a Jeep Cherokee

1

Locate the oxygen sensor that needs to be replaced. The very first sensor is in the manifold and can be accessed under the hood on the drivers side of the engine. The rest will have to be accessed from under the vehicle in the exhaust system. There is one at the rear of the manifold in the front exhaust pipe, another in the pipe going to the catalytic converter on the passenger side under the Jeep.

2

Raise the front of the Jeep if necessary by driving it up on car ramps. Apply the parking brake and place a wheel chock behind one of the rear tires. Crawl underneath on a creeper (if you have one) with the tools and the new sensor.

3

Put on the safety glasses.

4

Spray WD-40 on the threads of the oxygen sensor and allow it to soak in. Be caul the engine is not too hot when replacing the sensors, especially the very front one up in the manifold.

5

Follow the wire of the oxygen sensor to the plug and unplug it. You can use the screwdriver to press in and release the clip lock.

6

Remove the oxygen sensor with the oxygen sensor socket and ratchet. If it is stubborn, you may want to try and heat the pipe area up with the hand torch to expand the pipe. Once the sensor is loosed from the threads, allow the pipe to cool down if you had to use the torch.

7

Remove the old oxygen sensor.

8

Screw in the new oxygen sensor and make sure there is a coating of anti-seize lubricant on the threads. Most quality direct-fit after-market sensors will already have a coating applied to them. This will make future extraction a little easier.

9

Tighten the sensor with the socket and ratchet, but be caul not to over-tighten. If you strip the threads of the sensor, youre going to have to buy another one.

10

Plug the wire back into the plug.

11

Remove the tools and lower the Cherokee and/or close the hood.

The Jeep Grand Cherokee grille is attached to the its reinforcement at the front of the vehicle, making it more rigid and increasing its durability. The grille is constructed from plastic and can crack or break with an impact, necessitating replacement of the grille itself. Replacement grilles can be purchased at your local dealership. You might be able to obtain a good used part from a salvage yard, however, and save yourself a significant amount of money.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of your Grand Cherokee and locate the two bolts on the top of the radiator support that secure the grille to its reinforcement and radiator support.

2

Remove the two upper mounting bolts from the grille with a 10-millimeter socket and ratchet. Set the bolts aside.

3

Locate the retaining screws on the front of the grille. There are three screws inside the vertical slats of the grille.

4

Remove the retaining screws from the front of the grille with a Phillips screwdriver and remove the grille from the front of the Jeep.

General Motors, or GM, began developing the LS family of engines in 1997. GM used these eight-cylinder engines in a variety of cars and trucks with rear-wheel-drive until 2005. A typical application for the LS1 engine was the Chevrolet Camaro from 1998 to 2002. The LS1 engine uses a harmonic balancer, also known as a crankshaft balancer, on the end of the crankshaft to keep the crankshaft stable at high speed. The procedure for installing a harmonic balancer in an LS1 engine requires the removal of additional components to access the crankshaft.

Instructions

1

Remove the batterys negative cable with a socket wrench, to avoid starting the engine inadvertently. Detach the drive belt for the air conditioner.

2

Raise the vehicle with a floor jack, and safely support it on jack stands. Disconnect the starter motor with a socket wrench to access the crankshaft. Remove the right cover for the transmission, and detach the lines for the transmission oil cooler from the radiator. Disconnect the cooler for the power steering fluid, if your vehicle is so equipped.

3

Attach Tool J 42386-A to the flywheel to hold the flywheel in place, and remove the mounting bolt for the crankshaft balancer with a socket wrench. Connect a removal tool to the crankshaft balancer, and pull the balancer from the crankshaft.

4

Mount the crankshaft balancer to the crankshaft with an installer tool. Fasten the old mounting bolt to the balancer, and tighten it to 240 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Remove the old mounting bolt for the crankshaft balancer with a socket wrench.

5

Measure the depth of the crankshaft nose within the balancer bore with a depth micrometer. This measurement should be between 0.094 inches and 0.176 inches. Repeat steps three and four until the installation depth of the crankshaft balancer is within this range.

6

Fasten the new mounting bolt to the crankshaft balancer, and tighten it to 37 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Turn the mounting bolt an additional 140 degrees clockwise with a socket wrench.

7

Attach the lines for the transmission oil cooler to the radiator, and torque the retaining nuts to 20 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Connect the cooler for the power steering fluid, if your vehicle is so equipped. Replace the right cover for the transmission, and tighten it mounting bolt to 106 inch-pounds. Connect the starter motor.

8

Lower the vehicle, and attach the drive belt for the air conditioner. Connect the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

The Ford 5.4-liter engine is a V-8 engine with aluminum cylinder heads. It appears in various Ford vehicles made since 1997, such as the F-Series of pickup trucks. The 5.4-liter engine has a pair of cylinder heads, one on each side of the engine. The head gasket lies between the cylinder head and the engine block, and makes a tight seal between the two components. The procedure for replacing the cylinder head gaskets is generally the same for both gaskets.

Instructions

1

Evacuate the air-conditioning system with the appropriate evacuating equipment. This step requires a mechanic licensed by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA).

2

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench to prevent the engine from starting during the head gasket replacement. Remove the covers for the cylinder head, and disconnect the intake manifold from the engine block. Detach the timing chains from their sprockets, and remove both exhaust manifolds from the engine block.

3

Remove the retaining bolts from the heater hose on the engine block with a socket wrench. Release the hose clamp by squeezing it together and sliding it down the hose. Detach the hose from the engine block. Detach any additional cables, electrical connectors and hoses that restrict your access to the cylinder head.

4

Disconnect the mounting bolts from the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Detach the cylinder head from the engine block. Remove the head gasket from the engine block and discard it. Remove any traces of the gasket from the cylinder head and engine block with a gasket scraper.

5

Turn the crankshaft clockwise by hand so that the key way on the crankshaft is in the 12 oclock position. Place the new gasket for the cylinder head over the dowel pins on the engine block. Mount the cylinder head over the dowel pins, so that the head is on top of the gasket.

6

Install new mounting bolts to the cylinder head by hand. Tighten the bolts to 30 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Tighten the mounting bolts for the cylinder head an additional 85 to 95 degrees on the second pass. Tighten the mounting bolts an additional 85 to 95 degrees on the third pass.

7

Connect the heater hose to the cylinder head, and fasten its retaining bolts with a socket wrench. Slide the hose clamp in place to secure the hose. Attach the exhaust manifolds to the engine block, and mount the timing chains to their sprockets. Connect the intake manifold to the engine block.

8

Attach the covers for the cylinder head with a socket wrench. Connect all additional electrical connectors, cables and hoses you removed to obtain access to the cylinder head.

9

Recharge the air-conditioning system with the appropriate equipment. This step requires a mechanic licensed by the EPA.

10

Fill the engine oil and coolant to their proper levels. Connect the cable for the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Start the engine and check for fluid leaks.

The engine in your General Motors vehicle depends on precision timing and accuracy. The Opti-Spark is an ignition distributor used by GM that employs an optical sensor to trigger the firing of spark plugs. Although they are known for high performance, these devices can have increased susceptibility to wear and tear and may need to be changed more often than other types of distributor caps.

Instructions

1

Check your local GM dealership or authorized mechanic. They will have the part in stock or can order it for you and offer services for installation.

2

Search online for "buy GM optispark." This will give you the widest range of Opti-Spark designs and types from which to choose. Also try auction sites such as eBay or check several of the large companies that make Opti-Sparks for both standard and custom use.

3

Contact the retailer you have chosen and ensure that the part you are buying is correct for your vehicle. You will need to supply the make, model and year of your car.

The Acura TL is a luxury sports car in production since 1996. The 2002 model is a second generation Acura, which includes the 1999 through 2003 models. The standard engine for all second generation Acuras in North America is a six-cylinder, 3.2-liter engine with a double overhead camshaft. The timing belt synchronizes the crankshaft with the camshafts, so the cylinder valves open and close at the right time.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable for the negative battery terminal and the ignition coil cover with a socket wrench.

2

Place a cushion such as a wooden board on top of a floor jack. Place the floor jack under the oil pan, and raise the vehicle. Remove the front wheel assemblies with a lug wrench. Disconnect the splash shield under the vehicle and remove the accessory drive belts from their respective pulleys.

3

Lower the vehicle with the floor jack and raise it slightly to take the weight of the engine off the engine mounts. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the side mount on the front of the engine, and remove the side mount. Remove the bolt for the dipstick tube with a socket wrench, and detach the tube from the engine.

4

Rotate the crankshaft clockwise to align the white timing mark on the crankshaft pulley with the pointer on the lower rear timing belt cover. The timing marks on the camshaft pulleys must also align with their respective timing marks on the upper rear timing belt cover.

5

Hold the crankshaft pulley in place with Holder Attachment Tool 07MAB-PY3010A. Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt with a socket wrench and a 19mm socket. Pull the crankshaft pulley from its shaft with Holder Attachment Tool 07MAB-PY3010A.

6

Disconnect a bolt for a battery clamp with a socket wrench. Grind a 45-degree bevel on the threaded end of the bolt. Screw the bolt into the hole in the right cylinder head by hand to hold the adjuster for the timing belt in place. Disconnect the engine mount bracket. Turn the mounting bolt for the idler pulley five turns counterclockwise with a socket wrench, and detach the timing belt.

7

Disconnect the spark plugs. Turn the crankshaft sprocket clockwise to align the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket with the timing mark on the oil pump. The timing mark on the camshaft pulleys must also align with their respective timing marks on the rear timing belt covers.

8

Disconnect the battery clamp bolt with a socket wrench and replace it into its original hole. Remove the timing belt tensioner and place it into a soft-jawed vise with the maintenance bolt pointed up. Remove the maintenance bolt with a socket wrench. Place Stopper Tool 14540-P8A-A01 onto the tensioner to maintain the tension setting. Turn the screw inside the maintenance hole clockwise with a flat-blade screwdriver to compress the bottom of the tensioner.

9

Replace the gasket for the maintenance bolt on the timing belt tensioner and tighten the bolt to 6 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Install the tensioner and tighten its mounting bolts to 33 ft. lbs.

10

Mount the new timing belt to the crankshaft sprocket, idler pulley, left camshaft sprocket, water pump pulley, right camshaft sprocket and adjusting pulley in that order. Remove Stopper Tool 14540-P8A-A01 from the timing belt tensioner.

11

Install the bolts for the engine side mount with a torque wrench. Tighten the No. 10 bolts to 33 ft. lbs., and tighten the No. 6 bolts to 104 in. lbs. Connect the timing belt covers with a socket wrench. Install the crankshaft pulley with Holder Attachment tool 07MAB-PY3010A. Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt with a torque wrench and a 19mm socket to 181 ft. lbs.

12

Turn the crankshaft five complete turns clockwise to position the timing belt, and align the timing marks. Connect the dipstick tube, accessory drive belts, splash shield and front wheel assemblies. Lower the vehicle and replace the ignition coil cover. Attach the cable to the negative battery terminal.

The catalytic converter reduces smog emissions by converting harmful emissions from your engine into less dangerous gases. Like any other part on your car, there will come a time when the catalytic converter will need to be replaced either because it is broken and has holes in it, or it just gets clogged up. The project is not difficult, and the entire process will take about an hour to an hour and a half to complete.

Instructions

1

Park the car on a level surface and set the parking brake.

2

Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.

3

Raise the car with an automobile jack and place a jack stand under the car at the frame rail. Position the jack stand as close as possible to the frame.

4

Remove the bolts from the front and back end of the catalytic converter with the proper size socket and a ratchet.

5

Remove the catalytic converter from the exhaust system by twisting it and tapping the ends with a rubber mallet.

6

Install the new catalytic converter in place of the old one and secure it with the bolts hand-tight.

7

Tighten all of the bolts with the proper size socket and ratchet.

8

Remove the jack stand and lower the car to the ground with the jack.

Muffler tape is an inexpensive method to repair damage to a muffler that has been dragged on the ground or has rusted through. Muffler tape is not adhesive, instead using the heat of the exhaust system to bond to your current muffler.

Function

Muffler tape should be used to repair your muffler or exhaust system for a short time. You should take your vehicle to a dealership or exhaust specialty shop as soon as possible.

Types

Muffler tape may come in strips that can be wrapped around your exhaust or in a patch kit that requires trimming the tape to the proper size.

Benefits

Muffler tape can help silence your vehicle quickly, keeping emissions levels down and your vehicle quiet as you drive.

Installing

Once you wrap muffler tape around the exhaust, the heat near the muffler will cause the tape to bond to the exhaust system. You may need to add more muffler tape if any falls off or holes in the muffler remain uncovered.

Expert Insight

Muffler tape is not a permanent solution. Vehicles are regularly subjected to extreme temperature changes, and you may find that your muffler tape falls off after only a few days or weeks of use.

Problems with the catalytic converter on your Mercedes, or any vehicle for that matter, are often more difficult to deal with than most drivers realize because it is illegal to tamper with a catalytic converter in any way. This means it is illegal to attempt to fix your Mercedes catalytic converter by any means other than having an approved certified mechanic replace it.



There are both federal and state laws governing the removal and replacement of catalytic converters on vehicles. The noise your catalytic converter is making indicates a problem that may cause your Mercedes to fail an emissions test or land you a number of federal fines from the Environmental Protection Agency if not handled properly. It is only legal to remove it if the noise is affecting its function.

Instructions

1

Check the warranty. Your Mercedes may not be covered by the federally mandated Environmental Protection Agency warranty. Federal law emissions warranty specifies that if your car was manufactured before 1996, the catalytic converter is still under warranty only if the car has less than 50,000 miles on it. If the car was manufactured after 1996, the car is legally required to have more than 80,000 miles on it or be more than eight years old to be out of warranty.

Some Mercedes vehicles have documented issues with the catalytic converters. Mercedes reached a settlement with the EPA to extend the emissions warranties on these vehicles.

2

Take your Mercedes to the dealership, or a mechanic who regularly handles these cars, and have the catalytic converter tested. You will need to go to a mechanic who is familiar with the cars exhaust system requirements and has access to original equipment manufacturer, or OEM, exhaust parts. The converter used to replace your Mercedes converter must be identical to the original Mercedes catalytic converter.

If your car is still covered by the federal warranty, it will need to be taken to the Mercedes dealership.

3

Have the mechanic thoroughly document the problem with the converter, then, if necessary, replace it with an identical new converter. Documentation of the problem is a legal requirement if the converter needs to be replaced.

Since tampering with converters is illegal, your noisy converter will probably be replaced. If the converter is still functioning, the mechanic is not legally allowed to remove it.

4

Make sure the mechanic also fills out a warranty card as required by federal law. Save a copy of everything for your records in case of emissions inspection problems at a later date.

An engines exhaust manifold routes exhaust gases from the engine to the vehicles exhaust system. Without the exhaust manifold, hazardous exhaust fumes can reach the interior of the vehicle. Installation of the exhaust manifold is usually the final step of the engine installation process, but installation is also necessary when an exhaust manifold gasket is replaced. Thankfully, installing an exhaust manifold is a straightforward process.

Instructions

1

Ensure that the exhaust manifolds mating surface is free from old gasket deposits to begin the installation process. Old exhaust manifold gaskets rarely leave gasket deposits, but if any deposits are present they should be scraped away with a gasket scrapper.

2

Place a new exhaust manifold gasket over the manifolds mating surface. Do not apply gasket sealer to this gasket.

3

Position the exhaust manifold with its gasket against the portion of the head where the manifold attaches, then place one exhaust manifold bolt through one end of the manifold and into the head. Turn this bolt only until it begins to grasp the threads within the head.

4

Insert another manifold bolt into the opposite side of the exhaust manifold and turn this bolt only until it begins to grasp the threads within the head.

5

Insert the remaining exhaust manifold bolts through the manifold and into the head.

6

Tighten each exhaust manifold bolt to the required torque specifications with a torque wrench to complete the installation. Refer to the vehicles specifications manual for this torque setting.

Buick introduced the LeSabre Marquee as a concept car in 1951. The nameplate officially became part of the Buick lineup in 1959. Before discontinuing the model in 2005, Buick had sold over 6 million LeSabres, and for 12 years it was the best-selling full-size vehicle in the U.S. The Buick LeSabre has sold with a number of different transmissions, all of which are prone to problems. Signs of a bad transmission in a Buick LeSabre arent difficult to detect.

Leaks

Look at the ground under where the Buick LeSabre is normally parked. Puddles of fluid, stains and spots are all signs of a leak. If the leak appears red in color, there is a good chance the Buick LeSabres transmission is leaking.

Fluid

Even without a noticeable leak, the transmission fluid is possibly getting dangerously low. Use the transmission fluid dipstick to check for proper operating levels. If the fluid is not translucent red or smells burnt, change the fluid.

Vibrations

Vibrations and shuttering of the vehicle during gear shifts is a clear sign that something is not right with the Buick LeSabres transmission. The transmission is designed to shift smoothly and easily; vibrations are a sign that shifts are not happening as intended.

Noises

Grinding, whining or any other unusual noises coming from the transmission are a clue that something is wrong with the gears or transmission valves. Transmission noises usually come from the floorboards and near the center of the vehicle.

Overheating

Overheating of the transmission is a severe sign that something is wrong with the Buick LeSabre transmission. Overheating is caused by internal breakdown or during heavy towing, rocking the vehicle, racing or stop-and-go driving in high-heat environments. Signs of overheating are smoke, burnt transmission fluid and excessive heat near the shift lever.

Oil leaking from an automobile may have numerous sources, and many car owners overlook the shocks as a possible culprit. Shocks use oil to dampen the movements of the vehicle, and this function can sometimes lead to a leak.

Location of Shock Leak

Most automobile suspensions use struts on the front wheels of the vehicle and shocks on the rear. Shocks will leak oil just inside the rear wheels of the vehicle. Struts also use oil and may also leak. Oil leaking from a shock may run down the shock or drip onto other suspension components or the vehicles frame.

Inspecting Shocks for Leaks

To locate the leak, wipe away any dirt or grime from the shock. After cleaning, drive the vehicle and recheck the shock for fresh oil. A leaking shock will also work less effectively. You can check its functionality by shoving down and then releasing the corner of the vehicle with the suspect shock. If the shock is working properly, the car will settle back to the original position without bouncing.

Dealing with Leaks

A leaking shock has either a corroded body or a failed seal. In either case the shock will require replacement. Shocks should be replaced in pairs, even if only one side has failed. The result of replacing both shocks at once will be an even amount of suspension support on each side of the vehicle.

Shock is a medical condition that often occurs due to some sort of trauma. According to the National Institute of General Medical Sciences, shock, also known as circulatory collapse, sets in when the blood pressure in a persons arteries is too low to supply adequate blood to his organs and tissues. In a state of shock, a persons skin becomes cold and sweaty and his pulse becomes weak. Breathing becomes irregular, the mouth becomes dry and pupils dilate.

Septic Shock

Septic shock results from microorganisms entering the bloodstream. Anything that introduces bacteria into the blood stream can cause septic shock. This condition causes immune chemicals to be released into your bloodstream to fight the infection and triggers widespread inflammation, leading to blood clots and leaky vessels, according to a description of the condition by National Institute of General Medical Sciences. The condition deprives the body of blood flow and damages the bodys organs. An extreme form of this reaction results in septic shock and could cause death. People with chronic illnesses such as diabetes and kidney or liver disease face a higher than average risk of septic shock.(see erence 1)

Anaphylactic Shock

Anaphylactic shock is caused by a severe allergy reaction. This results from an anaphylaxis reaction that could set in within minutes or seconds of your exposure to something you are allergic to, such as milk or peanuts, as MayoClinic.com explains. A flood of chemicals is released by your immune system during an anaphylaxis reaction. This could cause you to go into shock as your blood pressure drops and your airways become too narrow to allow normal breathing. (see erence 2)

Cardiogenic Shock

When the heart is too weak to pump enough blood to meet the needs of the body, the result could be a cardiogenic shock. Damage to the heart muscle from a severe heart attack is the most common form of cardiogenic shock, according to the National Heart Lung and Blood Institute. Not everyone who has a heart attack goes into cardiogenic shock as a result though. Only about seven percent of people who experience heart attack go into cardiogenic shock. (see erence 3)

Exhaust flex pipes are a flexible metal pipe sections that are used either in areas where an exhaust pipe needs to be flexible, or to repair a damaged exhaust system. While they are all-metal, it is common for one to fail and require replacement.

Construction

Automotive exhaust pipes get extremely hot from the exhaust gas passing through the system and out the tailpipe. Due to this, when an exhaust system needs to bend, shift or be flexible, the manufacturer cannot use traditional materials like rubber. The flex pipe is made of metal strips woven into a lattice, and thus can withstand exhaust gas heat. Higher quality flex pipes will be made of stainless steel.

Use

Automotive engines move slightly during operation, whereas most exhaust systems are fixed from the mid-section back. Flex pipes allow the engine to move and not crack or rupture what would otherwise be an inflexible metal exhaust pipe. Flex pipes are typically found where the exhaust manifold meets the downpipe or mid-section of an exhaust, which is closer to the engine than to the exit tailpipe.

Availability

Exhaust flex pipe sections are widely available at automotive stores in a variety of lengths and diameters.

If you plan to remove the oil seal in the rear axle housing of your Jeep Grand Cherokee, it helps to have a seal puller. Rental pullers are available at many auto parts stores and will help prevent damage to the pinion shaft. The oil seal is in the housing where the pinion shaft passes through the differential and keeps the oil from running out of your axle. Replacement seals are available from Jeep or most auto parts stores.

Instructions

1

Raise the rear of your Jeep with a jack and support the truck with a set of jack stands under the rear axle. Locate the pinion yoke, where the axle and driveshaft meet. Place an alignment mark on the yoke and the driveshaft with a paint pen for use later.

2

Remove the four 10-millimeter bolts from the pinion yoke with a wrench, then separate the drive shaft from the yoke. Caully set the drive shaft aside.

3

Locate the pinion nut in the center of the pinion yoke. Install a large socket and breaker bar on the nut and rotate it counterclockwise. Remove the nut and washer from the shaft.

4

Remove the pinion yoke from the shaft with a yoke puller. If you do not have a puller, you can rent one from many auto parts stores. If you cannot find a puller, heating the yoke with an oxyacetylene torch will allow it to swell and come loose. Caully slide it off the shaft.

5

Place an oil drain pan under the pinion shaft to catch any oil that might seep from the differential when you remove the seal.

6

Place the seal puller over the shaft and engage the arms with the inside edge of the seal. Turn the puller counterclockwise with a socket and ratchet, pulling the seal from the bore.

Finding authentic parts or accessories for an older vehicle that you are rebuilding or repairing can be frustrating. Most repair shops keep only newer car parts and accessories in stock. In some cases, even figuring out the specific brand and model of accessories like car stereos that belong in an older truck can be a challenge. Specific types of resources can help take the guesswork out of the process and help ease a bit of the frustration. Finding original factory parts or accessories--such as a 1989 Toyota Land Cruiser car stereo--requires research from several resources.

Instructions

1

Ask your local Toyota dealer. Toyota dealerships have access to erence materials--such as parts directories and technical specification information--that will help you track down a factory car stereo for your 1989 Toyota Land Cruiser. Your local Toyota dealer may also be aware of resources available to order the stereo, or at least direct you to sellers, resellers or car clubs where you can find it.

2

Check online auction sites. Sites such as eBay Motors, which specializes in cars, parts and electronics, have specific sections for electronics like Toyota Land Cruiser stereos. Although such auction sites offer a comprehensive selection of parts and electronic accessories since they draw from sellers around the world, note that availability of a 1989 Land Cruiser factory stereo will depend on someone else selling it. Because these sites also depend on users to categorize the parts they sell, you may need to search multiple categories for the stereo you need--such as "Parts & Accessories" and "Electronics."

3

Use specialty parts sites. Sites that specialize in particular kinds of parts or accessories are a good source in your search for a 1989 Toyota Land Cruiser factory stereo. Websites like HiFi Sound Connection and Installer.com offer you tools that search their parts and accessories directories by year, make or model of car, or by brand of stereo. Specialty parts and accessories sites also categorize parts by manufacturer and let you scroll through the different models and manufacturing years as needed.

The P1603 diagnostic code on a 2000 Volvo V70 represents a problem with the vehicles electronic throttle module (ETM). When the accelerator pedal is used, it signals the engine control unit, which activates the ETM. Repairing this problem will preserve your engine speed control.

Symptoms

Symptoms of a P1603 diagnostic code on a 2000 Volvo V70 automobile include stalling and erratic revving. The engine warning light will also illuminate.

Identification

After 1999, Volvo V70 models had physical contact between two parts that control the throttle. This particular setup was produced until 2002. Theore, Volvo V70s manufactured from 1999 to 2002 suffered from wear, damage and failure of the two throttle parts that were in contact with each other. Approximately 500,000 Volvo gasoline cars were negatively affected by this design.

Solution

A Volvo Master Technician recommends a 155 software upgrade for this type of problem, and an ETM repair job takes between 2.5 to 3 hours. The dealer will replace the ETM under the vehicles 10-year, 200,000-mile extended warranty.

Jeep Wranglers are equipped with hydraulic clutches. There are two components to a hydraulic clutch system, a master cylinder and slave cylinder. When you push on the clutch with your foot the master cylinder pushes hydraulic fluid down a line to the slave cylinder. The slave cylinder then pushes the clutch lever, opening and closing the clutch. Master cylinders have a tendency to lose pressure over time and need to be changed.

Instructions

1

Remove the clutch master cylinder cap. It is bolted to the firewall at the highest point above the steering column. Suck out all the fluid with the syringe.

2

Disconnect the hydraulic line coming into the cylinder with a 3/8-inch open end wrench.

3

Remove the upper and lower master cylinder mounting nuts with the 1/2-inch wrench.

4

Lean under the dashboard on the inside of the cab. Trace the clutch pedal up to the point where it meets the lever coming in from the master cylinder. The pedal is joined to the lever with a cotter pin. Pull out the cotter pin with pliers. Using your fingers, disconnect the pedal from the lever by pulling it to the side.

5

Pull the cylinder free from the firewall. Insert the new cylinder. Screw both cylinder mounting bolts back into the firewall securing the cylinder to the firewall. Screw the 3/8-inch hydraulic line onto the new cylinder.

6

Lean under the dashboard. Connect the clutch pedal to the master cylinder lever coming in through the firewall. Insert the cotter pin.

7

Fill the master cylinder with hydraulic fluid but leave the cap off. Get into the vehicle and pump the brake several times until the brakes have sufficient resistance. You will be able to feel the brake get stiff as any air escapes when you are pumping the brakes. Put the cap back on the master cylinder.

The third vehicle Ford Motor Company produced was a truck. By 1917 Ford was consistently producing the Model T one-ton truck for the American automotive consumer. Ford began manufacturing the F-Series truck in 1948, offering consumers multiple engine and chassis configurations. Today, innovations such as fuel injection, power windows and air conditioning have kept the F-Series Fords top selling truck platform. Replacing the A/C compressor can be performed with common tools and moderate automotive repair knowledge.

Instructions

A/C Compressor Removal

1

Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal on the vehicles battery.

2

Locate the A/C compressor on the front-right side of the engine block.

3

Locate the two rigerant lines connected to the back side of the compressor, and remove them using an open end wrench. Install a cap on each of the lines immediately to prevent rigerant from escaping. Refrigerant line caps are available from most automotive parts supply stores. Discard the two rubber "O" rings.

4

Release the tension from the accessory drive belt using a pry-bar and pull the belt of off the compressor pulley.

5

Remove the six bolts attaching the compressor to the compressor bracket using a socket wrench and a socket, and remove the compressor.

A/C Compressor Installation

6

Add rigerant oil into the service ports on the new A/C compressor.

7

Install the compressor to the compressor mounting bracket by threading the six compressor retaining bolts by hand. Tighten the bolts using a torque wrench and socket to the manufacturers recommended torque level.

8

Apply rigerant oil on the two new rubber "O" rings supplied with the new A/C compressor. Install the two new "O" rings on both rigerant lines.

9

Attach the two rigerant lines to the compressor, one at a time, by removing the caps on the lines and threading the rigerant line fitting into the compressor by hand. Tighten each line until the fitting is fully seated in the compressor using an open-end wrench.

10

Install the accessory drive belt onto the compressor drive pulley.

11

Connect the negative cable to the vehicles battery.

12

Start the engine and turn the air conditioning system to "maximum cool" and the blower to "high". Make sure the air conditioning system is cooling, and add rigerant if needed.

When the Check Engine light comes on in your 2000 Toyota Camry, it may indicate a faulty oxygen sensor. Another indication of a failing oxygen sensor is a significant decrease in fuel mileage. If youre spending more time and money at the pump, check your oxygen sensors. The oxygen sensors in your Camry are located before and after the exhaust manifold, protruding from the exhaust pipes. Buy a new sensor from an auto parts retailer.

Instructions

1

Start the ignition of your Camry and allow the engine to run for approximately five minutes. Turn the ignition off.

2

Raise the front of the 2000 Camry with a jack and secure it on a set of jack stands. Remove the jack once the front of the Camry is supported on the jack stands so you can slide under the car.

3

Slide under the Camry and locate the oxygen sensor. Unplug the sensors electrical connector. Press the retaining clip and pull the plug out of the connection.

4

Remove the sensor with an oxygen sensor socket and ratchet. If the sensor in your Camry is secured with bolts, remove the two bolts with a socket and ratchet and pull the sensor straight out. Discard the old sensor and gasket.

5

Install the new gasket on the replacement sensor. Thread the sensor in by hand and tighten it with an oxygen sensor socket and ratchet or, if it is secured with bolts, install it straight into place and tighten the bolts with a socket and ratchet. Press the electrical connection together until it clicks.

6

Repeat the process on the other sensor if necessary.

7

Raise the car slightly with the jack to remove the jack stands. Lower the car to the ground.

If the air-conditioning compressor on a late model car does not engage, the system is probably low on rigerant and the low-pressure switch prevents the compressor from turning on. This problem goes away by simply adding rigerant. Opening a can of R134a into the system usually overrides the low-pressure switch and allows the air-conditioning compressor to engage normally. On older cars, the air-conditioning compressor has to be engaged manually to recharge the system. The procedure is simple and usually takes less than a minute.

Instructions

1

Check the compressor oil level. Add more oil if necessary. Since different manufacturers have different procedures for checking compressor oil levels and filling compressors with oil, er to the auto manufacturers shop manual for specific instructions.

2

Locate the single wire connector near the front of the compressor and unplug it.

3

Hook one end of the fused jumper wire to the compressor side of the wire connector.

4

Hook the other end of the jumper wire to the positive terminal of the battery. By supplying voltage to the compressor, the compressor will engage manually without even turning on the air-conditioning switch inside the car.

Seeing a vehicle with open headers is far less common than the majority of vehicles equipped with a full exhaust system. Open headers are extremely loud, potentially illegal on public roads and most commonly used on a race track. Open headers are the optimal design for exhausting engine gasses.

Exhaust Design

A full exhaust system is made of multiple components, which release gasses exhausted from an engines combustion chamber. Starting at the engines cylinder ports, an exhaust manifold or headers direct exhaust into a front pipe that leads into a catalytic converter, which acts as a filter. Exhaust then heads into a muffler, where engine exhaust sound is muffled, and finally it releases through a tailpipe. Open headers directly exhaust gasses from the engine through piping pointed outside.

Performance

Open headers provide optimal exhaust flow and velocity while minimizing back-pressure, which smothers engine power because of the direct path from engine to the air.

DMV & Emission Testing

The Department of Motor Vehicles sets vehicle requirements that vary by state. Open headers are often illegal because harmful exhaust gasses are not filtered and delivered straight into the air. Open headers will fail emission testing. There are exceptions. For example, Delaware requires every vehicle originally equipped with a catalytic converter to have one.

The belt that operates the engine accessories on the Chevrolet Aveo is a single accessory belt. The accessory belt routes around all of the accessory pulleys at once. As the engine runs, the crankshaft turns the belt around all of the pulleys. This process makes it possible for the single belt to operate each of the accessories at the same time. If the belt begins to fray or crack, replace it with a new belt before the belt breaks. If the belt breaks, all of the engine accessories will stop working.

Instructions

1

Park the Chevrolet Aveo, and open the hood. Turn the steering wheel to the far right, and turn the engine off. This will give you enough room to access the belt tensioner pulley from the front passenger side wheel well. Set the parking brake.

2

Locate the belt routing diagram on the top of the fan shroud. You will use the routing instructions from this diagram to route the new belt around all of the engine accessories. Lower the hood.

3

Jack the front end of the Chevrolet Aveo up, and slide the jack stands under the proper front jacking points. Lower the car onto the top of the stands.

4

Move to the front passenger side wheel well. Remove the plastic guard from the back of the wheel well by removing the 10-mm bolts and nuts with a ratchet and a 10-mm socket. Pull the guard out of the wheel well, and place it on the ground.

5

Locate the belt tensioner near the bottom center of the engine. The tensioner has a pulley attached to the bottom of the tensioner arm. Use a breaker bar and a 14-mm socket to turn the tensioner.

6

Rotate the tensioner clockwise from the bolt head in the middle of the tensioner pulley with a breaker bar and a 14-mm socket. Once the tension is off of the belt, slide the belt off of the tensioner pulley and the other accessory pulleys. Pull the belt out through the wheel well.

7

Route the new belt through the wheel well and around each of the engine accessories as directed by the belt routing diagram.

8

Rotate the tensioner clockwise with the breaker bar and 14-mm socket again. Slide the new belt around the tensioner pulley, and release the breaker bar. Pull the breaker bar and socket off of the tensioner and out through the wheel well. Inspect the belt to ensure it is inside of each pulley.

9

Crank the engine, and inspect the new belt to make sure that it stays seated inside of each pulley. Turn the engine off. Reinstall the guard to the back of the wheel well, and tighten the bolt and nuts with the ratchet and 10-mm socket.

10

Jack the Chevrolet Aveo back up and remove the jack stands. Lower the car to the ground and remove the jack.

You can adjust the parking brake on your 1995 Ford Mustang right from your driveway or garage. Doing so will save you time and money. You can test whether or not your parking brake needs an adjustment by positioning it downhill and trying to hold the vehicle in place using only the parking brake. If it doesnt hold and the Mustang starts to slip, you need to adjust it. The good news is that it takes only one simple tool that you probably already have at home.

Instructions

1

Find the center console cover and remove it by pressing the release levers on the sides and pulling up on it. This is located between the front passengers seat and the drivers seat.

2

Lift up the parking brake handle four clicks.

3

Find the adjuster nut at the end of the cable rod. Loosen the nut with the pliers but take care that the nut doesnt fall off.

4

Lower the parking brake lever all the way. Turn the nut with the pliers until it is very close to the parking brake handle.

5

Lift up the parking brake handle to its highest position, then lower it all the way to the lowest position. Do this four times. This will set the brake adjustment.

6

Put the center console cover back in place.

7

Test the parking brake adjustment by positioning the vehicle on a downward facing slope and try to hold the Mustang in place using only the parking brake. If it holds the vehicle in place, then you have done the adjustment correctly.

Certain motorcycles always emit some type of fumes upon starting the engine. However, grey smoke signals a problem with the engine and necessitates prompt investigation to avoid serious engine damage.

Clogged Air Filter

A clogged air filter causes dark smoke to come out of the exhaust pipes. If this is the cause of the smoke, then the bikes spark plugs will also not work. Change the motorcycles filter to remedy the situation.

Open Starter Plunger

An open starter plunger can also result in grey smoke from motorcycle exhaust pipes. The starter plunger is a small component of the starter. Repair this problem by removing the bolts from the starters cover to reveal the component. Push the plunger closed and replace the starter cover.

Float Bowl Fuel Levels

Grey smoke can result from improper fuel levels in the float bowl of the carburetor. Remove the float bowl from the carburetor by taking out the screws. Check the markings on the float bowl to ensure the fuel levels are correct.

There are a variety of components in the emission control system of modern automobiles, one of which is the Oxygen (O2) sensor. It measures the amount of oxygen present in the engine exhaust. The O2 sensor is linked to the Lexus SC400s computer, which then makes adjustments to the fuel/air mixture as the engine is running. This helps the engine run at peak efficiency, reducing exhaust pollution. The O2 sensor requires periodic replacement. Many owners can do the job themselves.

Instructions

1

Park your Lexus SC400. Set the parking brake, and open the engine hood. Let the engine cool completely before proceeding.

2

Locate the O2 sensor. Its in the lower engine area on the passenger side, threaded into the exhaust manifold.

3

Remove the wire from the sensor. Spray some anti-seize spray at the bottom of the sensor where it goes into the manifold. Let the fluid penetrate for a few minutes before proceeding.

4

Remove the sensor with the appropriate size socket and ratchet. Rotate the sensor counter-clockwise to loosen.

5

Install the new sensor into the hole and tighten firmly. Attach the wire and the job is finished.

Failed ignition timing means the timing setting for a car engine was inspected and is outside the guidelines for pollution control. The timing must be adjusted to pass a future inspection.

Significance

Smog technicians check vehicle timing and evaluate the settings. Timing adjustments, if necessary, are easy for mechanics to do and should not require more than a few minutes of labor in most cases. Timing specifications are located under the hood, on the timing belt cover or in owners manuals.

Considerations

Consumers should caully select a mechanic to adjust timing settings, as dishonest opportunists have a reputation of exploiting failed ignition timing for financial gain. Second opinions are recommended, particularly if more than a simple adjustment is required.

Effects

Engine timing ers to the rate at which spark plugs fire. The plugs burn a certain amount of fuel, and the fuel is broken down and emitted through the exhaust system. Larger amounts of carbon monoxide are created when the timing is inefficient, a circumstance that is detrimental to the environment.

Epoxy paint can be difficult to sand with good results. Wet sanding is often considered the best approach, and there is no clogged sandpaper or dust produced during the process. Wet sanding is done with waterproof sandpaper. This sandpaper is made from closed coat, silicon carbide. Waterproof sandpaper can be purchased at automotive paint supply stores. Learning how to wet sand epoxy paint is not difficult and just requires a little bit of practice.

Instructions

1

Fill a clean 5-gallon bucket and a spray bottle with water.

2

Fit a rubber sanding block with waterproof sandpaper. Use 60-grit sandpaper for the first sanding and follow up with 220-grit sandpaper.

3

Dip the sanding block into the bucket and begin sanding the epoxy paint. Wet the sanding block as needed, or use the spray bottle to wet the surface of the epoxy paint as you sand.

4

Wipe away the water and excess sanding material from the epoxy paint with a rubber-bladed window washer. Rinse the surface and the rubber-bladed window washer thoroughly between grits. This will prevent you from crossing the coarse-grit sandpaper with the finer-grit sandpaper.

The rocker arm gets its name from the action of the part. The rocker arm is attached to a stud that is pressed into the head, and rocks between the push rod and the valves. When the push rod pushes one end of the rocker arm, the other end of the rocker arm opens the valve. Occasionally, rocker studs wear or become damaged, and need replacement. Normally, replacing rocker studs is really a job for a machine shop, but aggressive do-it-yourselfers can save some money by pulling the rocker studs themselves.

Instructions

1

Remove the valve cover. Remove the rocker arm nut from the stud by turning it counterclockwise with a wrench. Lift the rocker arm off the rocker stud.

2

Slide a stack of flat washers onto the rocker stud. Leave enough space at the top of the stud to fully engage the threads of the nut.

3

Thread the nut back onto the shaft. Tighten the nut by turning it clockwise with the wrench. As the nut threads move down the rocker stud, the rocker stud will gradually pull out of the cylinder head.

A Honda Civic will alert you every 10,000 miles that it is time to perform standard maintenance. When this happens, a light will come on in the instrument panel. If you take the car to a Honda dealer for service, the mechanic will reset the light for you. However, if you perform system maintenance on your Honda Civic by yourself you must reset the maintenance indicator manually, using your ignition key.

Instructions

1

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "On" position but dont start the vehicle. Find the trip meter button located near the bottom of the dashboards instrument panel.

2

Press the trip meter button and hold it down for 10 or more seconds.

3

Continue to press the trip meter button and turn the ignition key to start the car. Wait for the light to turn off.

Fumes created by your automobile during fuel burning are expelled from the engine by the exhaust system. The exhaust pipe, or tailpipe, is where fumes exit the car. Many car improvement jobs involve replacing rusted or broken pipes. It is important to know the exact diameter of the pipe that fits the rest of the exhaust system when replacing it. This process is complicated by the location of the exhaust pipe, and often by its angle of cut on the pipes end.

Instructions

1

Raise your car using a car jack to a height that will allow you to lie comfortably underneath the vehicle.

2

Open the clamps of your caliper, and place them around the outside of the exhaust pipe. Choose a portion of the pipe that is straight. Close the caliper clamps around the pipe securely, but not tight enough to dig into the metal of the pipe. Record the reading on the calipers on a piece of paper.

3

Stick one clamp arm of the caliper inside the end of the tailpipe, leaving the other clamp arm outside the pipe. Close the clamp around one wall of the pipe, measuring the pipes thickness. Read the caliper and record this number.

4

Multiply the pipes wall thickness by 2. Subtract this number from the total outside pipe diameter determined in Step 2. This remaining number is the inside diameter of your exhaust pipe. The full equation is:

Inside Diameter = Outside diameter - (2*Wall Thickness)

Several models of Dodge cars, from near compact to full-size models, were available in 1977. The company used three engines to power them: a slant six-cylinder engine and two V8 engines.

Engine Types

The inline six-cylinder engine had a displacement of 225 cubic inches and could produce 90 horsepower and 170 pound-feet of torque, or pulling power. One of the V8 engines was a 318-cubic-inch motor that produced 135 horsepower and 235 pound-feet torque. The 359-cubic-inch, V8 engine was the performance engine, with 155 horsepower and 275 pound-feet of torque.

Features

The larger V8 and the six-cylinder engine had the same 8.4:1 compression ratio, which measures how much a cylinder compresses the air and fuel before igniting. Compression ratio has an impact on power. The smaller V8 had a compression ratio of 8.5:1. Bore and stroke were different in all three engines, going from 4.0 inches by 3.8 inches in the performance V8 to 3.4 inches by 4.125 inches in the six-cylinder engine. Bore is the width of the cylinder head, and stroke is the distance the piston travels.

Options

One-barrel or two-barrel carburetors were available as standard equipment on Dodge engines. Usually the one-barrel carburetor was paired with the six-cylinder, but all combinations were available. Carter carburetors were standard, but Holley carburetors, which are performance equipment, could be added. A four-barrel also was an option. A three-speed automatic transmission came standard in some Dodge cars, and three-speed or four-speed manual transmissions were available in all cars.

The fuel pump to your Saturn is what pressurizes the gasoline in the fuel tank and sends it to the fuel injectors and then to the engine to burn. If you are experiencing problems while driving your Saturn, such as sudden bursts of acceleration when pressing on the gas pedal steady or if the fuel pump is making noise and/or leaking, then the pump may be faulty and need replacing. This is a task that requires additional and more advanced knowledge about automotive repair, specifically in fuel and exhaust systems.

Instructions

Removing the Fuel Pump/Level Sensor Module

1

Relieve your Saturns fuel pressure system. Remove the fuel cap to equalize the pressure in the fuel tank.

2

Remove the negative cable from the battery.

3

Raise your Saturn with the jack and support it with jack stands.

4

Remove the fuel tank from under your Saturn. The tank must be as empty as possible, which may require some siphoning (with a siphoning kit).

5

Pinch together the legs of the retainers on the supply and return fuel lines with your needle-nose pliers. Pull the fittings from the fuel pump/level sensor module. Use a shop rag for any spilled fuel.

6

Mark on the fuel pump and on the fuel tank its exact position in the tank. Make sure these indicators align.

7

Unscrew the modules locknut counter-clockwise with your large channel locks. You may need to loosen the locknut using a hammer and a brass (not steel) punch.

8

Take out the module through the mounting hole. Be caul not to abruptly pull on the module, potentially breaking off the float or float arm into the fuel tank.

9

Check the O-ring seal on the mounting flange and replace if damaged.

Installing the New Fuel Pump/Level Sensor Module

10

Mark the new module on the same areas you marked on the old module to erence its position in the fuel tank.

11

Install the new fuel pump/level sensor module into the mounting hole of the fuel tank with care. Do not harm the fuel inlet strainer, float arm and float while inserting the module. Line up the markings you made on the module and fuel tank.

12

Install and screw on the modules locknut. Tighten it down with your channel locks.

13

Connect the fuel supply and return lines to the module. Check that they are secure on the module by lightly twisting and tugging them.

14

Install the fuel tank back under your Saturn.

15

Pour the fuel from the gas can into the filler hole. Install and tighten the fuel cap.

16

Reconnect the negative cable on the battery.

17

Remove the jack stands and lower your Saturn.

Drive shafts are used on all cars to connect the rear differential to the engines transmission. If you have a large vehicle like an SUV or a van, your vehicle will have a center bearing. This is also known as a carrier bearing. This bearing is used to support the drive shaft on the car. You dont have to be a car mechanic to replace your bearing. You can do it yourself with little hassle and minimal knowledge of the replacement.

Instructions

1

Jack up your vehicle so you have access to the bottom of the car. Put jack stands under the frame to support vehicle so it is not being support solely by the jack.

2

Use a piece of tape to mark where the transmission and the drive shaft are. The drive shaft is a splined shaft on the bottom of your vehicle. Mark where the universal joint connects to the rear axle differential.

3

Remove the bolt holding the drive shaft to the car. Remove the drive shaft center bearing from the frame with a socket wrench.

4

Use your wrench to remove the bolts holding the universal joint bearing to the yoke. This is coming out of the cars rear axle differential. Secure the caps at the bottom of the car with a piece of duct tape so they do not fall out.

5

Pull the drive shaft out of the cars transmission. Use a socket wrench to remove the bolts that are securing the universal joint bearing to the cars yoke coming out of the vehicles rear axle differential.

6

Use your wrench to remove the bolts from the drive shaft plate. Pull the rear plate off of the drive shaft. Secure the front plate to the drive shaft with a vise. Use your wrench to remove the nut from the center of the drive shaft.

7

Use a hammer to remove the old bearing from the drive shaft. Use a brass-ended punch so you do not scratch the shaft. Put a thin layer of car grease into the bearing shaft. Push your new bearing into the drive shaft and then hammer the bearing into place.

8

Reassemble your cars drive shaft in the reverse order that you took it apart.

The car alarm on your 1997 Honda CR-V can be very annoying if you are trying to replace your battery or make a repair to the vehicle. You can disable the car alarm in your 1997 Honda CR-V by taking the negative lead off of your battery. This takes the electrical power away from the alarm and leaves it dead. Once the valet switch is enabled, the car alarm will be disabled, allowing you to make your repair.

Instructions

1

Pop the hood to your Honda CR-V.

2

Locate the battery under the hood. This is to the right of the engine.

3

Determine which of the leads is the negative lead. The negative lead will have a "-" sign next to it.

4

Loosen the terminal with a socket wrench.

5

Pull the negative lead off of the battery to disable the car alarm.

The Duramax diesel engine is fitted in heavy duty trucks made by General Motors. The battery can be the cause of problems within the engine for a variety of reasons, and while the battery sometimes has to be replaced, you may be able to top up the battery fluid and get it working again. The battery itself is not particularly complicated, but it does contain some toxic chemicals so often it is better to purchase a replacement than attempt a repair yourself.

Instructions

1

Park your diesel truck on level ground and open the hood. Locate the battery. In some models it is hidden under a plastic cover. Remove the plastic cover by undoing the clips. You may need to use the screwdriver to pry open the clips.

2

Disconnect the black, negative terminal from the battery by loosening the nut on the clamp and pulling the clamp up and off the battery terminal. Disconnect the red positive terminal by loosening the nut holding the clamp in place and lifting the wire off the terminal.

3

Remove the clamp or bar holding the battery in place by loosening both nuts. Grasp the battery with both hands, remove it from the vehicle and set it on a work bench or similar.

4

On top of the battery are two rectangular covers. Pry these up with the flathead screwdriver and set them aside. They are very tight and they have acid underneath so be very caul the acid does not splash on you or anything around you. Some batteries may not have the cover in place. These are not fixable and have to be replaced.

5

Pour distilled water into the battery until the acid and water completely covers the terminals. Replace the covers on top of the battery by pushing down firmly. Replace the battery in the vehicle.

6

Replace the clamp or bar over the top of the battery and tighten the nuts to hold it in place. Replace the clamp over the positive (red) terminal and tighten the nut to hold it in place. Do the same with the negative (black) terminal

7

Replace the plastic cover over the battery, close the hood and start the truck to make sure the battery works. If the battery was dead before you started then you may need to jump start the truck.

You can replace the rubber gasket on your windshield from home in about a half hours time. Sometimes the rubber gasket can deteriorate over time due to age and weather. You usually dont need to remove the windshield to do this job. The gasket and molding strip are what hold the windshield in place. You just need a few items purchased from your local auto parts store to get the job done. Youll need to replace the gasket if you have a lot of condensation inside the passengers cabin which can interfere with visibility.

Instructions

1

Cut the gasket around the windshield with a razor knife. Have an assistant stand outside of the vehicle to catch the windshield as you push it from the inside out.

2

Place 1/16-inch molding cord into the new gasket and wrap it around the windshield, starting at the center of the bottom of the windshield. Wrap it around the entire edge of the windshield. Allow the ends to overlap by 3 inches. Leave a 12-inch cord hanging out. Secure the pieces that overlap with masking tape.

3

Spray the new gasket and the metallic lip of the windshield opening with a mixture of soap and water.

4

Remount the windshield into the windshield opening, bottom edge first, from the outside of the vehicle. Have your assistant get inside the vehicle while you push on the windshield from the outside. Ask your assistant to pull the end of the cord until the windshield slides into place. Use the putty knife to push the molding into the channel.

Woods and Bush Hog are separate companies that make farm implements and tractor attachments, including brush mowers that are designed to be towed behind tractors. Woods headquarters is in Oregon, Illinois. Bush Hog is located in Selma, Alabama. Changing blades on one of these mowers is both straightforward and difficult. Removing and reinstalling the blade bolt nut stumps some owners. This might help. Use a long wrench handle. Remember that torque is always expressed in foot pounds. So, an easy 45 pound pull on a 10 foot handle equals 450 foot pounds. These instructions are specific to the Bush Hog 280 Series. Some blade bolt nuts may be as small as 1 5/16 inch.

Instructions

1

Raise the Bush Hog cutter and securely lock it in position with wood blocks.

2

Remove the nuts from the blade bolts, using a 1 11/16 inch socket through the access hole in the deck. Use a socket adapter if necessary, a socket extension, a breaker bar and a steel pipe extension. Slip the steel pipe extension over the breaker bar to gain leverage. If you need to, heat the nut with a propane torch to loosen it.

3

Inspect the blade bolt shoulder for wear. Replace the blade bolt shoulder if necessary.

4

Assemble new blades to the blade holder, using blade bolts, nuts and lock washers.

5

Calculate the torque at the blade bolt nut by first measuring the distance from the torque wrench head to the handle with a steel tape. Slip a steel pipe extension of a known length over the torque wrench handle and calculate the torque using a longer handle. For example, tripling the length of the wrench triples the torque in foot pounds.

6

Tighten the nuts to 450 foot pounds of torque using a 1 11/16 inch socket, a socket extension, a 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch socket adapter and a steel pipe extension. Strike the blade bolt heads with a maul or a similar heavy hammer.

7

Retighten the blade bolts to 450 foot pounds of torque.

8

Spin the blades to ensure that they swing freely throughout an entire rotation. If the blades do not swing freely, remove them, locate the problem and repair.

9

Lower the Bush Hog.

Some questions are harder to answer than others; what is the meaning of life, why do things in movies and video games always happen in threes, and why is it so hard to find an engine mount removal procedure for a late-90s Escort or Escort ZX2? Maybe Ford thought Mazda or Kia -- who both used the "B" platform -- were supposed to cover the Escort. And probably vice-versa. Fortunately, aside from the torque specs, the actual procedure is much like the mount replacement procedures for every other four-cylinder ever produced.

Instructions

1

Place a set of chocks behind the rear wheels, set the parking brake, and lift the front end of your car just enough that you can fit under it. Youll be using your floor jack to support the engine from underneath, and youll be in a precarious position if you place the engine out of reach of the jack.

2

Identify the engine mount the you want to replace. There are four: the top motor mounts on the driver- and passenger-side of the car, and the lower front and rear motor mounts. The fact that this chassis has four motor mounts greatly simplifies the replacement procedure since either the top two or the bottom two could hypothetically support the weight of the drivetrain.

3

Slide the floor jack under the engine, and place a piece of lumber on top of the jack pad to protect the oilpan. Bias the jack toward the mount that youll be replacing. In this instance, youre not so much supporting the engine as you are keeping it from moving while you remove the mount and after you remove it. Avoid the exhaust pipe and the suspension components, and bias the jack as close to the mount as possible; just make sure that you leave enough room to access the mount itself.

4

Remove the mounts through-bolt first. Remove the nut from the bolt, and try to tap it out with the end of your wrench. If it doesnt move, then apply a little bit of upward pressure with the jack to take some of the weight off the bolt. If it proves extremely difficult, spray the bolt with some penetrating lubricant, and turn the bolt head.

5

Spray the engine mount nuts with penetrating oil if necessary, and remove them. Pull the mount off. You may find it easier, particularly on the lower mounts, to remove the corresponding bracket, and remove the two as a unit. Once you have the mount off, installation is the reverse of removal. The only major differences are that you may need to adjust the height of the engine with the jack to aid in aligning the through-bolt holes, and that you may want to clean the bolt and stud threads with solvent and use a drop of medium (blue) threadlocker for peace of mind. See the torque specs below for nut and bolt torques.

A Jeep Wrangler Sport comes with a Power Train Control Module (PCM) computer on board that diagnoses problems throughout the vehicle. When the engine warning light illuminates on the instrument panel, this is the result of a trouble code sent to the PCM. You can take the vehicle to an auto parts store to have it diagnosed for free, and then you should have the problem fixed by a mechanic. Once the problem has been rectified, you can quickly and easily reset the engine warning light.

Instructions

1

Open the hood and find the positive battery terminal. Loosen the bolt attached to the clamp with an adjustable wrench. Remove the clamp from the terminal and take care not to touch it to the negative side of the battery. Wait one minute.

2

Replace the positive clamp to the positive battery terminal and tighten the bolt with the wrench.

3

Put the key in the ignition and turn it to the "On" position for about five seconds. Turn the engine on. The engine warning light will flash and then turn off.

If you find yourself in the unfortunate situation of having to replace a car door, cost becomes a major factor. Hopefully, your insurance (or the other guys) will cover the replacement cost, not counting the deductible. The average cost of replacing a door will vary greatly depending on the model of car. Replacing a Ferrari door will certainly cost a lot more than that of a Hyundai. The other major factors in replacement cost are whom you choose to work on your car and how you acquire the replacement door.

Find It Yourself

Scouring junkyards is by far the cheapest way to go, but if this proves difficult, get in touch with a local car club. These can be found with a simple Internet search and are a great source for information regarding your specific model. Be sure to select a replacement door compatible with your vehicle. Find a door identical to yours in build and color to make for easy installation. Finding a matching door at a good price can be tedious and take time. A used car door can range from $100 for commonly-found, inexpensive older models to upwards of $500 for luxury and specialty vehicles. Remember that many models doors will be nearly impossible to find on junkyards or second-hand.

Purchase From A Body Shop

For harder-to-find models, you may have to resort to purchasing a new door from a body shop. Find a few reputable body shops in your area and inquire about their price. Be wary of any offers that seem too good to be true, as they usually are. Occasionally body shops are able to find used doors and often are willing to keep an eye out for one if they know you are looking and have time. If you are in need of a replacement car door, chances are you do not have this time and youll be stuck buying a new one. This will cost you anywhere from $400 for less expensive models to upwards of $1000 for some makes and models.

Get It From The Source

The safest method for getting exactly the car door you need is to purchase it directly from a dealership or the manufacturer. You can order the precise door you need and can sometimes even save a little by not purchasing an entire car door, but only the specific parts that have been damaged. For example, if the glass is not broken, you dont need to buy a new window. If you do replace the entire door, however, the cost of purchasing one from a dealership or manufacturer will run you at least $500 for the most common inexpensive models, and anywhere upwards of $1000 to $2000 for luxury vehicles.

Fix It Yourself

If you are comfortable working on your car, undertaking the repairs yourself enables you to save a lot of money. Find the instructions for replacing the door. These can be acquired from dealerships and sometimes your local auto parts store. Manuals can be purchased for as little as $20 to $50, and make up the bulk of your cost besides the replacement parts themselves.

Have Someone Else Do The Work

The least stressful and time-consuming way to replace your car door is to have someone else do all the work for you. Body shops will find all the necessary parts and install them. Shop around at several many body shops until you get a feel for what the price should be. Prices you get quoted may vary greatly. Be suspicious of unusually low quotes. You get what you pay for. Dealerships have a reputation for being a little more expensive, but are worth looking into as well. Besides the cost of the car door itself, labor costs at reputable businesses run upwards of $50 per hour, sometimes as high as $120 per hour. Count on your car to be in the shop for at least 2 to 3 days after the parts have arrived. Those needing paint work should figure in another day or two, as well as additional fees of around $40 per hour for the paint job.

Seatbelts are an essential tool to staying safe while driving. Statistics show a 50% increase in survival rate when wearing a seatbelt during a crash. However, a seatbelt or belt buckle that is damaged in any way wont provide the protection you need. Do not attempt to repair damaged seatbelts or belt buckles, they should be replaced by a professional mechanic at a trusted auto body shop. Heres how to go about setting up repair of your seatbelt buckle.

Instructions

Getting your seatbelt buckle repaired

1

Stop by the auto body shop you use and show them the damaged buckle.

2

Set up a time to have the seatbelt/buckle replaced. If you have the time, have the belt replaced that day, as it may take a couple hours. Otherwise, make an appointment for another day.

3

The shop will make the repairs.

4

Pick up the car and pay any costs you owe.

The headlamps on your Lexus are programmed to stay on after you have exited your vehicle. This is beneficial if it is dark and you need the light from your headlamps to walk up to your house or into a public place. The default time for the headlamps to remain on is 30 seconds. You can change this value to be longer, or you can adjust it so that your headlamps do not stay on at all when turn off the engine. You will need a special diagnostic tester to perform these steps.

Instructions

1

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "On" position.

2

Connect the Lexus diagnostic tester to the DLC3 port on the vehicle. The DLC3 port is located on the lower left side panel and is clearly labeled.

3

Turn on the diagnostic tester and select the "Customize" option.

4

Select "Verify Connections," press the "Yes" button, and press "Enter."

5

Select function "08" which is "Light Control."

6

Go to "Light Off Delay" and set it to your desired value. You can either choose 30 seconds, 60 seconds, 90 seconds or immediate off.

A key element of handling a vehicles movement is its steering mechanism, which includes the tie rods. Through the years, steering has become easier to maneuver, but the mechanism within the car has evolved into many small, intricate parts.

Function

The inner tie rods of a steering system, or rack-and-pinion steering system, move the force of the steering wheel movement to the wheels to turn the vehicle. If they become faulty, steering can become difficult.

Significance

It is apparent when the inner tie rods need replacement by the feel of the steering wheel. If the steering meanders, feels unsteady, or if the tread on the front tires is wearing down unevenly, this could indicate worn-out inner tie rods.

Considerations

Be aware that noise coming from the rack-and-pinion system doesnt necessarily mean that it is the inner tie rods causing it. Inspect the system thoroughly to verify if this is the case, since many noise problems come from the entire movement of the rack assembly itself.