So Fix it

Fit the Chrome Customizer primary cover veneer over the Sportsters primary cover on the left side of the motorcycle. Daub red touch up paint on the primary cover bolt heads under the 5 bolt holes in the customizer kit veneer.

Remove the primary cover veneer. Remove only the bolts daubed with red paint with an Allen socket and a socket wrench or breaker bar.

Put the bolts you remove in a plastic sandwich bag and store them in a safe and memorable place because you may want to reinstall them.

Fit the chrome customizer kit veneer snugly over the outer primary cover. Fasten the veneer to the primary by replacing the original bolts you just removed with the slightly longer bolts included with your Chrome Customizer Kit.

Tighten the bolts only wrench tight with an Allen socket and a socket wrench.

Repeat exactly the same procedures with the cam cover and the transmission cover on the right side of the motorcycle.

Clean the aluminum part thoroughly with soap and water. If it is covered with grease and oil, use a degreaser to break down the material and wash it off. Use a polisher to take the last bit of dirt off if any is left. Place the aluminum part on a metal hook so you can suspend it without using your hands.

Treat the aluminum surface with a type of acid to prep it to receive the chrome. Use an acid cleaner, such as sodium hydroxide, to eat the surface slightly. Be careful to wear goggles, a spill apron and acid-proof gloves while treating the aluminum in an appropriate container.

Pour some etching solution in another container. Dry off the aluminum part from the acid bath and place it in a a second container with etching solution. Allow sufficient time for the etching process to occur on the aluminum parts surface. Wash it off with water when finished.

Use a third container that can charge the liquid inside with charging plates. Fill it up with sulfuric acid while wearing safety gear. Put the part to be chromed inside the container. Heat the container so that the acid inside reaches approximately 115 degrees. Continue the electrical charging through the liquid. Treat the aluminum for at least 10 minutes. Pull the part out when finished and wash it off with water again.

Take the washed off part and dip it into a fourth container with heated and liquid copper using a hook. When fully dipped, go to a fifth container and dip the part in liquid and heated nickel. Pull the part out via the hook. Let the metal cool and harden. Wash the part again with water to remove any last impurities and cool the metal completely.

Place the aluminum part again on a hook and dip it in a last container filled with hex chromate. Let the part soak until fully immersed. Remove the part and let it dry.

Sand the damaged spot and the surrounding area. Use 320-grit sandpaper on light scratches. For deeper scratches, holes or rusted areas use sandpaper with rougher grit such as 120 or 60.

Clean off any sanding residue with a clean cloth.

Fill in any holes or uneven surfaces with a glazing compound. Allow the compound to dry.

Use 320-grit sandpaper to sand over the glazing compound to make it even. Use a clean cloth to remove sanding residue.

Spray on a light coat of chrome self-etching primer to the entire chromed surface. Allow to dry, then apply a second coat. Allow the second coat to dry.

Apply regular chrome primer over the self-etching primer. Use two to three coats, allowing each coat to dry thoroughly before applying the next.

Wipe the surface gently with lacquer thinner.

Apply chrome paint. Spray two to three thin coats of chrome paint to the entire chromed surface, allowing each coat to dry thoroughly before applying the next.