So Fix it

Disconnect the battery from the device it has been in and/or from any terminals.

Combine three parts baking soda and one part water to form a paste.

Use the paste and one damp cloth to scrub the battery terminals and clean any corrosion from the inside of the battery connectors.

Use the second damp cloth to wipe off any excess paste that remains on the battery.

Allow the battery to air dry before re-inserting it into a device and/or connecting it to terminals.

Place a drain pan under the radiator drain and open the drain cock with a socket wrench. Drain the coolant into the pan and replace the drain cock. Store the coolant for later use.

Disconnect the intake manifold from the engine with the carburetor still attached. Remove the muffler inlet pipes from the exhaust manifold with a socket wrench and remove the exhaust manifold. Record the position of the spark plug wires and detach them from the spark plugs. Unscrew the spark plugs from the cylinder heads.

Detach the drive belt from the air compressor if your vehicle is so equipped. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the compressor with a socket wrench and push the compressor out of your way. Remove the drive belt for the power steering pump. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the pump and move the pump out of your way. Perform this step only if you are removing the left cylinder head.

Disconnect the alternator, ignition coil and air inlet duct with a socket wrench. Detach the hose from the air manifold on the right cylinder head. Perform this step only if you are removing the right cylinder head.

Remove the electrical wires from the rear of the cylinder heads. Loosen the retaining nuts for the rocker arms with a socket wrench and turn the rocker arms to access the push rods. Record the position of the push rods and remove them from the engine block.

Record the positions of the mounting bolts on the cylinder block. Disconnect the mounting bolts with a socket wrench and pull the cylinder heads from the engine block. Remove the cylinder head gaskets from the engine block and discard them.

Clean the mounting surfaces for the cylinder head gasket with a gasket scraper and shop rag. Mount the new cylinder head gaskets over the dowels on the engine block and mount new gaskets on the muffler inlet pipes. Place the cylinder heads onto the dowels on the engine block.

Coat the heads of the cylinder head mounting bolts with water-resistant sealer and place them in the original holes you recorded in Step 6. Tighten the mounting bolts on the first pass to 50 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Tighten them 60 foot-pounds on the second pass, then tighten them to between 95 and 100 foot-pounds on the third pass.

Test the push rods for straightness by rolling them across a flat surface and replace any bent push rods. Soak the push rods in engine oil solvent and clean them with compressed air. Install the push rods according to the notes you made in Step five.

Rotate the rocker arms into position and replace the covers for the rocker arms. Tighten the retaining bolts for the rocker arm covers to between three and five foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

Install the exhaust manifold to the engine block and tighten its retaining nuts to between 18 and 24 foot-pounds. Install the intake manifold to the engine block with a socket wrench. Connect the components you removed in Step three if you installed the left cylinder head. Connect the components you removed in Step four if you installed the right cylinder head. Adjust the tension on the drive belts that you removed.

Attach the electrical wire to the rear of the cylinder heads. Screw the spark plugs into their bores on the engine block with a socket wrench. Connect the electrical wiring for the spark plugs according to the notes you made in Step two. Fill the radiator with the coolant you drained. Start the engine and check for fluid leaks.

Remove the air cleaner unit from the engine by unscrewing the wing nut. You might need pliers to turn the wing nut if it is very tight.

Vacuum off the top of the engine area to prevent dirt and debris from being sucked into the engine while the air cleaner is not in place.

Spray the entire carburetor inside and out with carburetor cleaner to loosen the gunk and varnish. Use shop rags to wipe up any heavy grease and gunk loosened by the carb cleaner.

Start the vehicle. With the vehicle running, spray carburetor cleaner down the throat of the carburetor and around the outside. The engine will pick up a bit as the vehicle burns the carburetor cleaner. Wait a few minutes and shut off the engine.

Spray the outside and inside of the carburetor again heavily. Start the vehicle again and spray more carb cleaner around the outside and inside while the engine is running.

Spray the entire air cleaner inside and out with carburetor cleaner. Wipe the air cleaner dry with shop towels. Install a new air filter element and re-install the air cleaner unit onto the carburetor.

Drain the radiator fluid into a three-gallon container. The radiator drain is located on the lower left of the radiator. To remove the drain, insert a -drive ratchet into the plug and turn it counter clockwise. Close the drain once all of the fluid drains into the pan.

Trace the lower radiator hose to the engine. The hose mounts to the T-Stat intake tube. The thermostat rests inside that tube.

Remove the radiator hose from the T-Stat intake tube with a pair of pliers and then pull the hose off the intake tube.

Remove the two 7/16 nuts that secure the intake tube onto the engine. Be caul, when you remove the intake tube, the thermostat comes out with it.

Pull the old 0-ring out of the bottom of the T-Stat intake tube and place a new one into the groove vacated by the old one.

Discard the thermostat and place the new one into the intake tube. The end of the thermostat with the jiggle vale (long skinny pin) sticks into the T-Stat intake tube.

Place the intake tube against the engine and thread the nuts back onto the studs with your fingers. Tighten the nuts into place with the 7/16 socket.

Slide the hose onto the T-Stat intake tube and secure it with the radiator hose band clamp.

Remove the radiator cap from the top of the radiator and drain the fluid back into the radiator. Close the cap once finished.

Place a jack under the front of the frame of your Honda CR-V and lift it. Slide jack stands under the frame and lower the SUV onto the jack stands.

Lie on a mechanics dolly and roll yourself under the SUV. Find the muffler. It looks like an oval cylinder with piping running in one end and out the other toward the back of the car, where your exhaust gets expelled from the CR-V.

Follow the piping with your eyes from the muffler leading toward the front of the SUV to the catalytic converter. It is a circular cylinder attached to the underside of the car with two bands clamped around it, and it has piping running in one end and out the other. If you have difficulty, the diagram for the catalytic converters and oxygen sensors on 2 Car Pros can help.

Find the two sensors bolted into the drivers side of the catalytic converter. The one near the front of the SUV is the primary oxygen sensor, which measures the air/fuel mixture before the exhaust runs through the catalytic converter. The one located closer to the rear is the secondary oxygen sensor, which measures the oxygen content of the exhaust after it has gone through the catalytic converter. Be aware that the Honda CR-V has two oxygen sensors and either can cause error codes.

Uncover the fuel line so that it is visible and can be reached easily. Do not remove the fuel line or disconnect it.

Place the top of a 1/4-inch wrench with an open end over the fuel line. Slide it caully over the line so that it fits snugly against the tubing. Read the wrenchs measurements to determine the diameter of the fuel line.

Place a caliper over the fuel line if the wrench did not give an accurate reading. Calipers are used to measure distance between two sides of one object. Adjust the tips of the caliper to fit tightly on either side of the line. Remove the caliper. Place the tips on a ruler and read the measurement.

Turn off the Dodge Ram and set its parking break. Ensure the headlight switch is in the "Off" position.

Open the hood.

Unscrew the expanding fastener located in the headlight welt. Use a socket wrench to remove the three bolts holding the headlight assembly to the vehicle body.

Pull the headlight assembly away from the vehicle body in order to access the electrical connections.

Unlock and remove the headlight connector by depressing the plastic tab and pulling straight back from the headlamp.

Twist the headlight collar 1/4-turn to remove it from the headlight assembly.

Insert the new bulb into the headlight assembly and lock it in place. Reconnect all electrical connections. Reverse the above steps to replace headlight assembly. Ensure that all electrical connections are secure and that all bolts and screws are tight.

Check the functionality of the headlights by turning the headlight selector switch to the "On" position. The headlights should illuminate. If not, double check all electrical connections.