So Fix it

Threadlock compound is a paste-like or liquid substance designed to seal the threads of metallic nuts and bolts. After applying threadlocker compound to the threads of a bolt, the substance will harden, providing an airtight and waterproof seal. Many automotive, industrial and hobby applications call for the use of threadlocker during assembly and repair tasks associated with certain components. Removing this hardened compound from a nut is an easy task, with the correct tools and supplies available.

Instructions

1

Peel off any thick portions of the threadlock from the nut, using a pair of small tweezers to gain access to the threads.

2

Apply a liberal amount of comparable threadlocker to the threaded portion of the nut. Allow the applied compound to soak into the threads and soften the old hardened threadlock.

3

Wipe off the threadlock, using a clean shop rag or paper towel. Put on a pair of thick leather gloves and clean out the remaining threadlocker with a sharp hobby knife. If any residue remains on the threads, move on to the next steps.

4

Secure the nut with a C-clamp or bench vice. Apply heat to the nut, using a lighter or propane torch. Do not operate the lighter or torch around flammable liquids, gasses or solid materials. Heat the nut until the hardened threadlock turns to ash.

5

Allow the nut to cool sufficiently. Remove the nut from the clamp and clean out any remaining residue from the threads, using the hobby knife. Wipe off the outside portion of the nut with a clean towel to complete the process.

Threadlock compound is a paste-like or liquid substance designed to seal the threads of metallic nuts and bolts. After applying threadlocker compound to the threads of a bolt, the substance will harden, providing an airtight and waterproof seal. Many automotive, industrial and hobby applications call for the use of threadlocker during assembly and repair tasks associated with certain components. Removing this hardened compound from a nut is an easy task, with the correct tools and supplies available.

Instructions

1

Peel off any thick portions of the threadlock from the nut, using a pair of small tweezers to gain access to the threads.

2

Apply a liberal amount of comparable threadlocker to the threaded portion of the nut. Allow the applied compound to soak into the threads and soften the old hardened threadlock.

3

Wipe off the threadlock, using a clean shop rag or paper towel. Put on a pair of thick leather gloves and clean out the remaining threadlocker with a sharp hobby knife. If any residue remains on the threads, move on to the next steps.

4

Secure the nut with a C-clamp or bench vice. Apply heat to the nut, using a lighter or propane torch. Do not operate the lighter or torch around flammable liquids, gasses or solid materials. Heat the nut until the hardened threadlock turns to ash.

5

Allow the nut to cool sufficiently. Remove the nut from the clamp and clean out any remaining residue from the threads, using the hobby knife. Wipe off the outside portion of the nut with a clean towel to complete the process.

Catalytic converters, also called "cats," absorb exhaust heat, and should, ideally, be as close as possible to the exhaust manifold for emissions compliance. This placement varies by make and model and can have a significant impact on performance.

The Y-Pipe

V-type engines often use y-shaped pieces of tubing to join the cylinder banks exhaust streams before entering into the converter. Converters are often bolted right to the back of this Y-pipe.

Direct Connection

Many manufacturers, such as Honda and Toyota, are becoming known for bolting the catalytic converters right to the exhaust manifold outlet, with nothing in between.

Down Tubes

Most turbocharged engines use a down tube, which is a smooth piece of tubing that allows a turbos exhaust flow to move away smoothly, before encountering the restrictive cat.

Oxygen Sensor

All new vehicles have an oxygen (O2) sensor somewhere between the exhaust manifold and cat. This works in conjunction with an after-cat O2 sensor to notify the engine control computer of any converter malfunction.

Exhaust Brakes

Large diesel trucks often have a large valve in between the cat and manifold, known as an exhaust or "Jacobs" brake. When closed, these valves create back pressure in the engine and allow a driver to control downhill acceleration without using the foot brake.

An engines firing order is the sequence that each cylinder is used in power delivery. The firing order for the 6.6L turbo diesel V8 in the 2004 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 2WD is 1-2-7-8-4-5-6-3.

Gasoline Versus Diesel

In a gasoline engine, the distributor or Engine Control Unit sends electricity to individual spark plugs to ignite fuel in each cylinder in a specific order. In a diesel engine it is determined by the order in which fuel is injected into each cylinder.

Cylinder 1

Engine firing orders always start with cylinder number one, which on this engine is located at the front left of the engine from the drivers point of view.

Cylinder Banks

GM V8 cylinders are numbered 1-3-5-7 on the left (drivers) side of the engine, and 2-4-6-8 on the right (passenger) side.

When working correctly, a catalytic converter cleans up the pollution that stems from your vehicles exhaust. The life expectancy of this part is well above 90,000 miles. However, because some issues can affect this estimate, its wise to test the converter for problems that could shorten its life.

Map Sensor

One way to test the efficiency of a catalytic converter is by disconnecting its MAP sensor. Doing this is supposed to make the converters temperature go up, which indicates no trouble. If the temperature remains the same, the catalyst has likely gone bad. It should also be kept in mind that an error code will occur once the MAP sensor is disconnected.

Plug Wire

By undoing and grounding a plug wire, you can create an overflow of hydrocarbons within the vehicles exhaust pipe. If the temperature goes up drastically, the converter is fine. This test should should not be run for more than two minutes because of the risk that it could damage the converter.

Exhaust Analyzer

An exhaust analyzer can also be used to check the performance of a catalytic converter to ensure that it reaches its life expectancy. This equipment can notify you if emissions levels are too high by taking readings at the exhaust pipe. An exhaust analyzer costs between $2,000 and $6,000.

When working correctly, a catalytic converter cleans up the pollution that stems from your vehicles exhaust. The life expectancy of this part is well above 90,000 miles. However, because some issues can affect this estimate, its wise to test the converter for problems that could shorten its life.

Map Sensor

One way to test the efficiency of a catalytic converter is by disconnecting its MAP sensor. Doing this is supposed to make the converters temperature go up, which indicates no trouble. If the temperature remains the same, the catalyst has likely gone bad. It should also be kept in mind that an error code will occur once the MAP sensor is disconnected.

Plug Wire

By undoing and grounding a plug wire, you can create an overflow of hydrocarbons within the vehicles exhaust pipe. If the temperature goes up drastically, the converter is fine. This test should should not be run for more than two minutes because of the risk that it could damage the converter.

Exhaust Analyzer

An exhaust analyzer can also be used to check the performance of a catalytic converter to ensure that it reaches its life expectancy. This equipment can notify you if emissions levels are too high by taking readings at the exhaust pipe. An exhaust analyzer costs between $2,000 and $6,000.

Turn signals operate by the opening and closing of a switch, or relay, which interrupts the electrical signal to the light. The switch operates in cadence based upon the electrical signal entering into the relay. Drivers of older vehicles with electrical problems may notice that the relay goes faster when the engine revs up, and slows down when the engine idles. An older relay will also begin to slow down as the electrical contacts in the switch begin to wear out. Speeding up the flashing of the turn signal merely requires installing a new turn signal relay.

Instructions

1

Turn the vehicle to "ON" and activate the turn signal.

2

Trace the location of the signal by listening for the clicking sound of the relay. Most relays are housed to the left of the steering column, mounted against the firewall in a bundle of wire connections. The relay is a usually a silver cylinder about 1 inch tall. Some newer models use a black box for the relay. You can both hear and feel the clicking of the switch while the signal is active.

3

Remove any necessary trim or dash panels to access the relay using a screwdriver or socket wrench as necessary.

4

Turn the vehicle off and remove the key.

5

Disconnect the old relay by pulling the wiring harness out of the electrical connection. You may have to unscrew a few retaining screws from the relay. Install the new relay in the reverse of the removal of the original. Start the vehicle and activate the turn signal to test. You will notice the signal is faster. Reinstall any dash or trim panels you removed.