So Fix it

Finding authentic parts or accessories for an older vehicle that you are rebuilding or repairing can be frustrating. Most repair shops keep only newer car parts and accessories in stock. In some cases, even figuring out the specific brand and model of accessories like car stereos that belong in an older truck can be a challenge. Specific types of resources can help take the guesswork out of the process and help ease a bit of the frustration. Finding original factory parts or accessories--such as a 1989 Toyota Land Cruiser car stereo--requires research from several resources.

Instructions

1

Ask your local Toyota dealer. Toyota dealerships have access to erence materials--such as parts directories and technical specification information--that will help you track down a factory car stereo for your 1989 Toyota Land Cruiser. Your local Toyota dealer may also be aware of resources available to order the stereo, or at least direct you to sellers, resellers or car clubs where you can find it.

2

Check online auction sites. Sites such as eBay Motors, which specializes in cars, parts and electronics, have specific sections for electronics like Toyota Land Cruiser stereos. Although such auction sites offer a comprehensive selection of parts and electronic accessories since they draw from sellers around the world, note that availability of a 1989 Land Cruiser factory stereo will depend on someone else selling it. Because these sites also depend on users to categorize the parts they sell, you may need to search multiple categories for the stereo you need--such as "Parts & Accessories" and "Electronics."

3

Use specialty parts sites. Sites that specialize in particular kinds of parts or accessories are a good source in your search for a 1989 Toyota Land Cruiser factory stereo. Websites like HiFi Sound Connection and Installer.com offer you tools that search their parts and accessories directories by year, make or model of car, or by brand of stereo. Specialty parts and accessories sites also categorize parts by manufacturer and let you scroll through the different models and manufacturing years as needed.

The P1603 diagnostic code on a 2000 Volvo V70 represents a problem with the vehicles electronic throttle module (ETM). When the accelerator pedal is used, it signals the engine control unit, which activates the ETM. Repairing this problem will preserve your engine speed control.

Symptoms

Symptoms of a P1603 diagnostic code on a 2000 Volvo V70 automobile include stalling and erratic revving. The engine warning light will also illuminate.

Identification

After 1999, Volvo V70 models had physical contact between two parts that control the throttle. This particular setup was produced until 2002. Theore, Volvo V70s manufactured from 1999 to 2002 suffered from wear, damage and failure of the two throttle parts that were in contact with each other. Approximately 500,000 Volvo gasoline cars were negatively affected by this design.

Solution

A Volvo Master Technician recommends a 155 software upgrade for this type of problem, and an ETM repair job takes between 2.5 to 3 hours. The dealer will replace the ETM under the vehicles 10-year, 200,000-mile extended warranty.

Jeep Wranglers are equipped with hydraulic clutches. There are two components to a hydraulic clutch system, a master cylinder and slave cylinder. When you push on the clutch with your foot the master cylinder pushes hydraulic fluid down a line to the slave cylinder. The slave cylinder then pushes the clutch lever, opening and closing the clutch. Master cylinders have a tendency to lose pressure over time and need to be changed.

Instructions

1

Remove the clutch master cylinder cap. It is bolted to the firewall at the highest point above the steering column. Suck out all the fluid with the syringe.

2

Disconnect the hydraulic line coming into the cylinder with a 3/8-inch open end wrench.

3

Remove the upper and lower master cylinder mounting nuts with the 1/2-inch wrench.

4

Lean under the dashboard on the inside of the cab. Trace the clutch pedal up to the point where it meets the lever coming in from the master cylinder. The pedal is joined to the lever with a cotter pin. Pull out the cotter pin with pliers. Using your fingers, disconnect the pedal from the lever by pulling it to the side.

5

Pull the cylinder free from the firewall. Insert the new cylinder. Screw both cylinder mounting bolts back into the firewall securing the cylinder to the firewall. Screw the 3/8-inch hydraulic line onto the new cylinder.

6

Lean under the dashboard. Connect the clutch pedal to the master cylinder lever coming in through the firewall. Insert the cotter pin.

7

Fill the master cylinder with hydraulic fluid but leave the cap off. Get into the vehicle and pump the brake several times until the brakes have sufficient resistance. You will be able to feel the brake get stiff as any air escapes when you are pumping the brakes. Put the cap back on the master cylinder.

The third vehicle Ford Motor Company produced was a truck. By 1917 Ford was consistently producing the Model T one-ton truck for the American automotive consumer. Ford began manufacturing the F-Series truck in 1948, offering consumers multiple engine and chassis configurations. Today, innovations such as fuel injection, power windows and air conditioning have kept the F-Series Fords top selling truck platform. Replacing the A/C compressor can be performed with common tools and moderate automotive repair knowledge.

Instructions

A/C Compressor Removal

1

Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal on the vehicles battery.

2

Locate the A/C compressor on the front-right side of the engine block.

3

Locate the two rigerant lines connected to the back side of the compressor, and remove them using an open end wrench. Install a cap on each of the lines immediately to prevent rigerant from escaping. Refrigerant line caps are available from most automotive parts supply stores. Discard the two rubber "O" rings.

4

Release the tension from the accessory drive belt using a pry-bar and pull the belt of off the compressor pulley.

5

Remove the six bolts attaching the compressor to the compressor bracket using a socket wrench and a socket, and remove the compressor.

A/C Compressor Installation

6

Add rigerant oil into the service ports on the new A/C compressor.

7

Install the compressor to the compressor mounting bracket by threading the six compressor retaining bolts by hand. Tighten the bolts using a torque wrench and socket to the manufacturers recommended torque level.

8

Apply rigerant oil on the two new rubber "O" rings supplied with the new A/C compressor. Install the two new "O" rings on both rigerant lines.

9

Attach the two rigerant lines to the compressor, one at a time, by removing the caps on the lines and threading the rigerant line fitting into the compressor by hand. Tighten each line until the fitting is fully seated in the compressor using an open-end wrench.

10

Install the accessory drive belt onto the compressor drive pulley.

11

Connect the negative cable to the vehicles battery.

12

Start the engine and turn the air conditioning system to "maximum cool" and the blower to "high". Make sure the air conditioning system is cooling, and add rigerant if needed.

When the Check Engine light comes on in your 2000 Toyota Camry, it may indicate a faulty oxygen sensor. Another indication of a failing oxygen sensor is a significant decrease in fuel mileage. If youre spending more time and money at the pump, check your oxygen sensors. The oxygen sensors in your Camry are located before and after the exhaust manifold, protruding from the exhaust pipes. Buy a new sensor from an auto parts retailer.

Instructions

1

Start the ignition of your Camry and allow the engine to run for approximately five minutes. Turn the ignition off.

2

Raise the front of the 2000 Camry with a jack and secure it on a set of jack stands. Remove the jack once the front of the Camry is supported on the jack stands so you can slide under the car.

3

Slide under the Camry and locate the oxygen sensor. Unplug the sensors electrical connector. Press the retaining clip and pull the plug out of the connection.

4

Remove the sensor with an oxygen sensor socket and ratchet. If the sensor in your Camry is secured with bolts, remove the two bolts with a socket and ratchet and pull the sensor straight out. Discard the old sensor and gasket.

5

Install the new gasket on the replacement sensor. Thread the sensor in by hand and tighten it with an oxygen sensor socket and ratchet or, if it is secured with bolts, install it straight into place and tighten the bolts with a socket and ratchet. Press the electrical connection together until it clicks.

6

Repeat the process on the other sensor if necessary.

7

Raise the car slightly with the jack to remove the jack stands. Lower the car to the ground.

If the air-conditioning compressor on a late model car does not engage, the system is probably low on rigerant and the low-pressure switch prevents the compressor from turning on. This problem goes away by simply adding rigerant. Opening a can of R134a into the system usually overrides the low-pressure switch and allows the air-conditioning compressor to engage normally. On older cars, the air-conditioning compressor has to be engaged manually to recharge the system. The procedure is simple and usually takes less than a minute.

Instructions

1

Check the compressor oil level. Add more oil if necessary. Since different manufacturers have different procedures for checking compressor oil levels and filling compressors with oil, er to the auto manufacturers shop manual for specific instructions.

2

Locate the single wire connector near the front of the compressor and unplug it.

3

Hook one end of the fused jumper wire to the compressor side of the wire connector.

4

Hook the other end of the jumper wire to the positive terminal of the battery. By supplying voltage to the compressor, the compressor will engage manually without even turning on the air-conditioning switch inside the car.

Seeing a vehicle with open headers is far less common than the majority of vehicles equipped with a full exhaust system. Open headers are extremely loud, potentially illegal on public roads and most commonly used on a race track. Open headers are the optimal design for exhausting engine gasses.

Exhaust Design

A full exhaust system is made of multiple components, which release gasses exhausted from an engines combustion chamber. Starting at the engines cylinder ports, an exhaust manifold or headers direct exhaust into a front pipe that leads into a catalytic converter, which acts as a filter. Exhaust then heads into a muffler, where engine exhaust sound is muffled, and finally it releases through a tailpipe. Open headers directly exhaust gasses from the engine through piping pointed outside.

Performance

Open headers provide optimal exhaust flow and velocity while minimizing back-pressure, which smothers engine power because of the direct path from engine to the air.

DMV & Emission Testing

The Department of Motor Vehicles sets vehicle requirements that vary by state. Open headers are often illegal because harmful exhaust gasses are not filtered and delivered straight into the air. Open headers will fail emission testing. There are exceptions. For example, Delaware requires every vehicle originally equipped with a catalytic converter to have one.

The belt that operates the engine accessories on the Chevrolet Aveo is a single accessory belt. The accessory belt routes around all of the accessory pulleys at once. As the engine runs, the crankshaft turns the belt around all of the pulleys. This process makes it possible for the single belt to operate each of the accessories at the same time. If the belt begins to fray or crack, replace it with a new belt before the belt breaks. If the belt breaks, all of the engine accessories will stop working.

Instructions

1

Park the Chevrolet Aveo, and open the hood. Turn the steering wheel to the far right, and turn the engine off. This will give you enough room to access the belt tensioner pulley from the front passenger side wheel well. Set the parking brake.

2

Locate the belt routing diagram on the top of the fan shroud. You will use the routing instructions from this diagram to route the new belt around all of the engine accessories. Lower the hood.

3

Jack the front end of the Chevrolet Aveo up, and slide the jack stands under the proper front jacking points. Lower the car onto the top of the stands.

4

Move to the front passenger side wheel well. Remove the plastic guard from the back of the wheel well by removing the 10-mm bolts and nuts with a ratchet and a 10-mm socket. Pull the guard out of the wheel well, and place it on the ground.

5

Locate the belt tensioner near the bottom center of the engine. The tensioner has a pulley attached to the bottom of the tensioner arm. Use a breaker bar and a 14-mm socket to turn the tensioner.

6

Rotate the tensioner clockwise from the bolt head in the middle of the tensioner pulley with a breaker bar and a 14-mm socket. Once the tension is off of the belt, slide the belt off of the tensioner pulley and the other accessory pulleys. Pull the belt out through the wheel well.

7

Route the new belt through the wheel well and around each of the engine accessories as directed by the belt routing diagram.

8

Rotate the tensioner clockwise with the breaker bar and 14-mm socket again. Slide the new belt around the tensioner pulley, and release the breaker bar. Pull the breaker bar and socket off of the tensioner and out through the wheel well. Inspect the belt to ensure it is inside of each pulley.

9

Crank the engine, and inspect the new belt to make sure that it stays seated inside of each pulley. Turn the engine off. Reinstall the guard to the back of the wheel well, and tighten the bolt and nuts with the ratchet and 10-mm socket.

10

Jack the Chevrolet Aveo back up and remove the jack stands. Lower the car to the ground and remove the jack.

You can adjust the parking brake on your 1995 Ford Mustang right from your driveway or garage. Doing so will save you time and money. You can test whether or not your parking brake needs an adjustment by positioning it downhill and trying to hold the vehicle in place using only the parking brake. If it doesnt hold and the Mustang starts to slip, you need to adjust it. The good news is that it takes only one simple tool that you probably already have at home.

Instructions

1

Find the center console cover and remove it by pressing the release levers on the sides and pulling up on it. This is located between the front passengers seat and the drivers seat.

2

Lift up the parking brake handle four clicks.

3

Find the adjuster nut at the end of the cable rod. Loosen the nut with the pliers but take care that the nut doesnt fall off.

4

Lower the parking brake lever all the way. Turn the nut with the pliers until it is very close to the parking brake handle.

5

Lift up the parking brake handle to its highest position, then lower it all the way to the lowest position. Do this four times. This will set the brake adjustment.

6

Put the center console cover back in place.

7

Test the parking brake adjustment by positioning the vehicle on a downward facing slope and try to hold the Mustang in place using only the parking brake. If it holds the vehicle in place, then you have done the adjustment correctly.

Certain motorcycles always emit some type of fumes upon starting the engine. However, grey smoke signals a problem with the engine and necessitates prompt investigation to avoid serious engine damage.

Clogged Air Filter

A clogged air filter causes dark smoke to come out of the exhaust pipes. If this is the cause of the smoke, then the bikes spark plugs will also not work. Change the motorcycles filter to remedy the situation.

Open Starter Plunger

An open starter plunger can also result in grey smoke from motorcycle exhaust pipes. The starter plunger is a small component of the starter. Repair this problem by removing the bolts from the starters cover to reveal the component. Push the plunger closed and replace the starter cover.

Float Bowl Fuel Levels

Grey smoke can result from improper fuel levels in the float bowl of the carburetor. Remove the float bowl from the carburetor by taking out the screws. Check the markings on the float bowl to ensure the fuel levels are correct.

There are a variety of components in the emission control system of modern automobiles, one of which is the Oxygen (O2) sensor. It measures the amount of oxygen present in the engine exhaust. The O2 sensor is linked to the Lexus SC400s computer, which then makes adjustments to the fuel/air mixture as the engine is running. This helps the engine run at peak efficiency, reducing exhaust pollution. The O2 sensor requires periodic replacement. Many owners can do the job themselves.

Instructions

1

Park your Lexus SC400. Set the parking brake, and open the engine hood. Let the engine cool completely before proceeding.

2

Locate the O2 sensor. Its in the lower engine area on the passenger side, threaded into the exhaust manifold.

3

Remove the wire from the sensor. Spray some anti-seize spray at the bottom of the sensor where it goes into the manifold. Let the fluid penetrate for a few minutes before proceeding.

4

Remove the sensor with the appropriate size socket and ratchet. Rotate the sensor counter-clockwise to loosen.

5

Install the new sensor into the hole and tighten firmly. Attach the wire and the job is finished.

Failed ignition timing means the timing setting for a car engine was inspected and is outside the guidelines for pollution control. The timing must be adjusted to pass a future inspection.

Significance

Smog technicians check vehicle timing and evaluate the settings. Timing adjustments, if necessary, are easy for mechanics to do and should not require more than a few minutes of labor in most cases. Timing specifications are located under the hood, on the timing belt cover or in owners manuals.

Considerations

Consumers should caully select a mechanic to adjust timing settings, as dishonest opportunists have a reputation of exploiting failed ignition timing for financial gain. Second opinions are recommended, particularly if more than a simple adjustment is required.

Effects

Engine timing ers to the rate at which spark plugs fire. The plugs burn a certain amount of fuel, and the fuel is broken down and emitted through the exhaust system. Larger amounts of carbon monoxide are created when the timing is inefficient, a circumstance that is detrimental to the environment.

Epoxy paint can be difficult to sand with good results. Wet sanding is often considered the best approach, and there is no clogged sandpaper or dust produced during the process. Wet sanding is done with waterproof sandpaper. This sandpaper is made from closed coat, silicon carbide. Waterproof sandpaper can be purchased at automotive paint supply stores. Learning how to wet sand epoxy paint is not difficult and just requires a little bit of practice.

Instructions

1

Fill a clean 5-gallon bucket and a spray bottle with water.

2

Fit a rubber sanding block with waterproof sandpaper. Use 60-grit sandpaper for the first sanding and follow up with 220-grit sandpaper.

3

Dip the sanding block into the bucket and begin sanding the epoxy paint. Wet the sanding block as needed, or use the spray bottle to wet the surface of the epoxy paint as you sand.

4

Wipe away the water and excess sanding material from the epoxy paint with a rubber-bladed window washer. Rinse the surface and the rubber-bladed window washer thoroughly between grits. This will prevent you from crossing the coarse-grit sandpaper with the finer-grit sandpaper.

The rocker arm gets its name from the action of the part. The rocker arm is attached to a stud that is pressed into the head, and rocks between the push rod and the valves. When the push rod pushes one end of the rocker arm, the other end of the rocker arm opens the valve. Occasionally, rocker studs wear or become damaged, and need replacement. Normally, replacing rocker studs is really a job for a machine shop, but aggressive do-it-yourselfers can save some money by pulling the rocker studs themselves.

Instructions

1

Remove the valve cover. Remove the rocker arm nut from the stud by turning it counterclockwise with a wrench. Lift the rocker arm off the rocker stud.

2

Slide a stack of flat washers onto the rocker stud. Leave enough space at the top of the stud to fully engage the threads of the nut.

3

Thread the nut back onto the shaft. Tighten the nut by turning it clockwise with the wrench. As the nut threads move down the rocker stud, the rocker stud will gradually pull out of the cylinder head.

A Honda Civic will alert you every 10,000 miles that it is time to perform standard maintenance. When this happens, a light will come on in the instrument panel. If you take the car to a Honda dealer for service, the mechanic will reset the light for you. However, if you perform system maintenance on your Honda Civic by yourself you must reset the maintenance indicator manually, using your ignition key.

Instructions

1

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "On" position but dont start the vehicle. Find the trip meter button located near the bottom of the dashboards instrument panel.

2

Press the trip meter button and hold it down for 10 or more seconds.

3

Continue to press the trip meter button and turn the ignition key to start the car. Wait for the light to turn off.

Fumes created by your automobile during fuel burning are expelled from the engine by the exhaust system. The exhaust pipe, or tailpipe, is where fumes exit the car. Many car improvement jobs involve replacing rusted or broken pipes. It is important to know the exact diameter of the pipe that fits the rest of the exhaust system when replacing it. This process is complicated by the location of the exhaust pipe, and often by its angle of cut on the pipes end.

Instructions

1

Raise your car using a car jack to a height that will allow you to lie comfortably underneath the vehicle.

2

Open the clamps of your caliper, and place them around the outside of the exhaust pipe. Choose a portion of the pipe that is straight. Close the caliper clamps around the pipe securely, but not tight enough to dig into the metal of the pipe. Record the reading on the calipers on a piece of paper.

3

Stick one clamp arm of the caliper inside the end of the tailpipe, leaving the other clamp arm outside the pipe. Close the clamp around one wall of the pipe, measuring the pipes thickness. Read the caliper and record this number.

4

Multiply the pipes wall thickness by 2. Subtract this number from the total outside pipe diameter determined in Step 2. This remaining number is the inside diameter of your exhaust pipe. The full equation is:

Inside Diameter = Outside diameter - (2*Wall Thickness)

Several models of Dodge cars, from near compact to full-size models, were available in 1977. The company used three engines to power them: a slant six-cylinder engine and two V8 engines.

Engine Types

The inline six-cylinder engine had a displacement of 225 cubic inches and could produce 90 horsepower and 170 pound-feet of torque, or pulling power. One of the V8 engines was a 318-cubic-inch motor that produced 135 horsepower and 235 pound-feet torque. The 359-cubic-inch, V8 engine was the performance engine, with 155 horsepower and 275 pound-feet of torque.

Features

The larger V8 and the six-cylinder engine had the same 8.4:1 compression ratio, which measures how much a cylinder compresses the air and fuel before igniting. Compression ratio has an impact on power. The smaller V8 had a compression ratio of 8.5:1. Bore and stroke were different in all three engines, going from 4.0 inches by 3.8 inches in the performance V8 to 3.4 inches by 4.125 inches in the six-cylinder engine. Bore is the width of the cylinder head, and stroke is the distance the piston travels.

Options

One-barrel or two-barrel carburetors were available as standard equipment on Dodge engines. Usually the one-barrel carburetor was paired with the six-cylinder, but all combinations were available. Carter carburetors were standard, but Holley carburetors, which are performance equipment, could be added. A four-barrel also was an option. A three-speed automatic transmission came standard in some Dodge cars, and three-speed or four-speed manual transmissions were available in all cars.

The fuel pump to your Saturn is what pressurizes the gasoline in the fuel tank and sends it to the fuel injectors and then to the engine to burn. If you are experiencing problems while driving your Saturn, such as sudden bursts of acceleration when pressing on the gas pedal steady or if the fuel pump is making noise and/or leaking, then the pump may be faulty and need replacing. This is a task that requires additional and more advanced knowledge about automotive repair, specifically in fuel and exhaust systems.

Instructions

Removing the Fuel Pump/Level Sensor Module

1

Relieve your Saturns fuel pressure system. Remove the fuel cap to equalize the pressure in the fuel tank.

2

Remove the negative cable from the battery.

3

Raise your Saturn with the jack and support it with jack stands.

4

Remove the fuel tank from under your Saturn. The tank must be as empty as possible, which may require some siphoning (with a siphoning kit).

5

Pinch together the legs of the retainers on the supply and return fuel lines with your needle-nose pliers. Pull the fittings from the fuel pump/level sensor module. Use a shop rag for any spilled fuel.

6

Mark on the fuel pump and on the fuel tank its exact position in the tank. Make sure these indicators align.

7

Unscrew the modules locknut counter-clockwise with your large channel locks. You may need to loosen the locknut using a hammer and a brass (not steel) punch.

8

Take out the module through the mounting hole. Be caul not to abruptly pull on the module, potentially breaking off the float or float arm into the fuel tank.

9

Check the O-ring seal on the mounting flange and replace if damaged.

Installing the New Fuel Pump/Level Sensor Module

10

Mark the new module on the same areas you marked on the old module to erence its position in the fuel tank.

11

Install the new fuel pump/level sensor module into the mounting hole of the fuel tank with care. Do not harm the fuel inlet strainer, float arm and float while inserting the module. Line up the markings you made on the module and fuel tank.

12

Install and screw on the modules locknut. Tighten it down with your channel locks.

13

Connect the fuel supply and return lines to the module. Check that they are secure on the module by lightly twisting and tugging them.

14

Install the fuel tank back under your Saturn.

15

Pour the fuel from the gas can into the filler hole. Install and tighten the fuel cap.

16

Reconnect the negative cable on the battery.

17

Remove the jack stands and lower your Saturn.

Drive shafts are used on all cars to connect the rear differential to the engines transmission. If you have a large vehicle like an SUV or a van, your vehicle will have a center bearing. This is also known as a carrier bearing. This bearing is used to support the drive shaft on the car. You dont have to be a car mechanic to replace your bearing. You can do it yourself with little hassle and minimal knowledge of the replacement.

Instructions

1

Jack up your vehicle so you have access to the bottom of the car. Put jack stands under the frame to support vehicle so it is not being support solely by the jack.

2

Use a piece of tape to mark where the transmission and the drive shaft are. The drive shaft is a splined shaft on the bottom of your vehicle. Mark where the universal joint connects to the rear axle differential.

3

Remove the bolt holding the drive shaft to the car. Remove the drive shaft center bearing from the frame with a socket wrench.

4

Use your wrench to remove the bolts holding the universal joint bearing to the yoke. This is coming out of the cars rear axle differential. Secure the caps at the bottom of the car with a piece of duct tape so they do not fall out.

5

Pull the drive shaft out of the cars transmission. Use a socket wrench to remove the bolts that are securing the universal joint bearing to the cars yoke coming out of the vehicles rear axle differential.

6

Use your wrench to remove the bolts from the drive shaft plate. Pull the rear plate off of the drive shaft. Secure the front plate to the drive shaft with a vise. Use your wrench to remove the nut from the center of the drive shaft.

7

Use a hammer to remove the old bearing from the drive shaft. Use a brass-ended punch so you do not scratch the shaft. Put a thin layer of car grease into the bearing shaft. Push your new bearing into the drive shaft and then hammer the bearing into place.

8

Reassemble your cars drive shaft in the reverse order that you took it apart.

The car alarm on your 1997 Honda CR-V can be very annoying if you are trying to replace your battery or make a repair to the vehicle. You can disable the car alarm in your 1997 Honda CR-V by taking the negative lead off of your battery. This takes the electrical power away from the alarm and leaves it dead. Once the valet switch is enabled, the car alarm will be disabled, allowing you to make your repair.

Instructions

1

Pop the hood to your Honda CR-V.

2

Locate the battery under the hood. This is to the right of the engine.

3

Determine which of the leads is the negative lead. The negative lead will have a "-" sign next to it.

4

Loosen the terminal with a socket wrench.

5

Pull the negative lead off of the battery to disable the car alarm.

The Duramax diesel engine is fitted in heavy duty trucks made by General Motors. The battery can be the cause of problems within the engine for a variety of reasons, and while the battery sometimes has to be replaced, you may be able to top up the battery fluid and get it working again. The battery itself is not particularly complicated, but it does contain some toxic chemicals so often it is better to purchase a replacement than attempt a repair yourself.

Instructions

1

Park your diesel truck on level ground and open the hood. Locate the battery. In some models it is hidden under a plastic cover. Remove the plastic cover by undoing the clips. You may need to use the screwdriver to pry open the clips.

2

Disconnect the black, negative terminal from the battery by loosening the nut on the clamp and pulling the clamp up and off the battery terminal. Disconnect the red positive terminal by loosening the nut holding the clamp in place and lifting the wire off the terminal.

3

Remove the clamp or bar holding the battery in place by loosening both nuts. Grasp the battery with both hands, remove it from the vehicle and set it on a work bench or similar.

4

On top of the battery are two rectangular covers. Pry these up with the flathead screwdriver and set them aside. They are very tight and they have acid underneath so be very caul the acid does not splash on you or anything around you. Some batteries may not have the cover in place. These are not fixable and have to be replaced.

5

Pour distilled water into the battery until the acid and water completely covers the terminals. Replace the covers on top of the battery by pushing down firmly. Replace the battery in the vehicle.

6

Replace the clamp or bar over the top of the battery and tighten the nuts to hold it in place. Replace the clamp over the positive (red) terminal and tighten the nut to hold it in place. Do the same with the negative (black) terminal

7

Replace the plastic cover over the battery, close the hood and start the truck to make sure the battery works. If the battery was dead before you started then you may need to jump start the truck.

You can replace the rubber gasket on your windshield from home in about a half hours time. Sometimes the rubber gasket can deteriorate over time due to age and weather. You usually dont need to remove the windshield to do this job. The gasket and molding strip are what hold the windshield in place. You just need a few items purchased from your local auto parts store to get the job done. Youll need to replace the gasket if you have a lot of condensation inside the passengers cabin which can interfere with visibility.

Instructions

1

Cut the gasket around the windshield with a razor knife. Have an assistant stand outside of the vehicle to catch the windshield as you push it from the inside out.

2

Place 1/16-inch molding cord into the new gasket and wrap it around the windshield, starting at the center of the bottom of the windshield. Wrap it around the entire edge of the windshield. Allow the ends to overlap by 3 inches. Leave a 12-inch cord hanging out. Secure the pieces that overlap with masking tape.

3

Spray the new gasket and the metallic lip of the windshield opening with a mixture of soap and water.

4

Remount the windshield into the windshield opening, bottom edge first, from the outside of the vehicle. Have your assistant get inside the vehicle while you push on the windshield from the outside. Ask your assistant to pull the end of the cord until the windshield slides into place. Use the putty knife to push the molding into the channel.

Woods and Bush Hog are separate companies that make farm implements and tractor attachments, including brush mowers that are designed to be towed behind tractors. Woods headquarters is in Oregon, Illinois. Bush Hog is located in Selma, Alabama. Changing blades on one of these mowers is both straightforward and difficult. Removing and reinstalling the blade bolt nut stumps some owners. This might help. Use a long wrench handle. Remember that torque is always expressed in foot pounds. So, an easy 45 pound pull on a 10 foot handle equals 450 foot pounds. These instructions are specific to the Bush Hog 280 Series. Some blade bolt nuts may be as small as 1 5/16 inch.

Instructions

1

Raise the Bush Hog cutter and securely lock it in position with wood blocks.

2

Remove the nuts from the blade bolts, using a 1 11/16 inch socket through the access hole in the deck. Use a socket adapter if necessary, a socket extension, a breaker bar and a steel pipe extension. Slip the steel pipe extension over the breaker bar to gain leverage. If you need to, heat the nut with a propane torch to loosen it.

3

Inspect the blade bolt shoulder for wear. Replace the blade bolt shoulder if necessary.

4

Assemble new blades to the blade holder, using blade bolts, nuts and lock washers.

5

Calculate the torque at the blade bolt nut by first measuring the distance from the torque wrench head to the handle with a steel tape. Slip a steel pipe extension of a known length over the torque wrench handle and calculate the torque using a longer handle. For example, tripling the length of the wrench triples the torque in foot pounds.

6

Tighten the nuts to 450 foot pounds of torque using a 1 11/16 inch socket, a socket extension, a 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch socket adapter and a steel pipe extension. Strike the blade bolt heads with a maul or a similar heavy hammer.

7

Retighten the blade bolts to 450 foot pounds of torque.

8

Spin the blades to ensure that they swing freely throughout an entire rotation. If the blades do not swing freely, remove them, locate the problem and repair.

9

Lower the Bush Hog.

Some questions are harder to answer than others; what is the meaning of life, why do things in movies and video games always happen in threes, and why is it so hard to find an engine mount removal procedure for a late-90s Escort or Escort ZX2? Maybe Ford thought Mazda or Kia -- who both used the "B" platform -- were supposed to cover the Escort. And probably vice-versa. Fortunately, aside from the torque specs, the actual procedure is much like the mount replacement procedures for every other four-cylinder ever produced.

Instructions

1

Place a set of chocks behind the rear wheels, set the parking brake, and lift the front end of your car just enough that you can fit under it. Youll be using your floor jack to support the engine from underneath, and youll be in a precarious position if you place the engine out of reach of the jack.

2

Identify the engine mount the you want to replace. There are four: the top motor mounts on the driver- and passenger-side of the car, and the lower front and rear motor mounts. The fact that this chassis has four motor mounts greatly simplifies the replacement procedure since either the top two or the bottom two could hypothetically support the weight of the drivetrain.

3

Slide the floor jack under the engine, and place a piece of lumber on top of the jack pad to protect the oilpan. Bias the jack toward the mount that youll be replacing. In this instance, youre not so much supporting the engine as you are keeping it from moving while you remove the mount and after you remove it. Avoid the exhaust pipe and the suspension components, and bias the jack as close to the mount as possible; just make sure that you leave enough room to access the mount itself.

4

Remove the mounts through-bolt first. Remove the nut from the bolt, and try to tap it out with the end of your wrench. If it doesnt move, then apply a little bit of upward pressure with the jack to take some of the weight off the bolt. If it proves extremely difficult, spray the bolt with some penetrating lubricant, and turn the bolt head.

5

Spray the engine mount nuts with penetrating oil if necessary, and remove them. Pull the mount off. You may find it easier, particularly on the lower mounts, to remove the corresponding bracket, and remove the two as a unit. Once you have the mount off, installation is the reverse of removal. The only major differences are that you may need to adjust the height of the engine with the jack to aid in aligning the through-bolt holes, and that you may want to clean the bolt and stud threads with solvent and use a drop of medium (blue) threadlocker for peace of mind. See the torque specs below for nut and bolt torques.

A Jeep Wrangler Sport comes with a Power Train Control Module (PCM) computer on board that diagnoses problems throughout the vehicle. When the engine warning light illuminates on the instrument panel, this is the result of a trouble code sent to the PCM. You can take the vehicle to an auto parts store to have it diagnosed for free, and then you should have the problem fixed by a mechanic. Once the problem has been rectified, you can quickly and easily reset the engine warning light.

Instructions

1

Open the hood and find the positive battery terminal. Loosen the bolt attached to the clamp with an adjustable wrench. Remove the clamp from the terminal and take care not to touch it to the negative side of the battery. Wait one minute.

2

Replace the positive clamp to the positive battery terminal and tighten the bolt with the wrench.

3

Put the key in the ignition and turn it to the "On" position for about five seconds. Turn the engine on. The engine warning light will flash and then turn off.

If you find yourself in the unfortunate situation of having to replace a car door, cost becomes a major factor. Hopefully, your insurance (or the other guys) will cover the replacement cost, not counting the deductible. The average cost of replacing a door will vary greatly depending on the model of car. Replacing a Ferrari door will certainly cost a lot more than that of a Hyundai. The other major factors in replacement cost are whom you choose to work on your car and how you acquire the replacement door.

Find It Yourself

Scouring junkyards is by far the cheapest way to go, but if this proves difficult, get in touch with a local car club. These can be found with a simple Internet search and are a great source for information regarding your specific model. Be sure to select a replacement door compatible with your vehicle. Find a door identical to yours in build and color to make for easy installation. Finding a matching door at a good price can be tedious and take time. A used car door can range from $100 for commonly-found, inexpensive older models to upwards of $500 for luxury and specialty vehicles. Remember that many models doors will be nearly impossible to find on junkyards or second-hand.

Purchase From A Body Shop

For harder-to-find models, you may have to resort to purchasing a new door from a body shop. Find a few reputable body shops in your area and inquire about their price. Be wary of any offers that seem too good to be true, as they usually are. Occasionally body shops are able to find used doors and often are willing to keep an eye out for one if they know you are looking and have time. If you are in need of a replacement car door, chances are you do not have this time and youll be stuck buying a new one. This will cost you anywhere from $400 for less expensive models to upwards of $1000 for some makes and models.

Get It From The Source

The safest method for getting exactly the car door you need is to purchase it directly from a dealership or the manufacturer. You can order the precise door you need and can sometimes even save a little by not purchasing an entire car door, but only the specific parts that have been damaged. For example, if the glass is not broken, you dont need to buy a new window. If you do replace the entire door, however, the cost of purchasing one from a dealership or manufacturer will run you at least $500 for the most common inexpensive models, and anywhere upwards of $1000 to $2000 for luxury vehicles.

Fix It Yourself

If you are comfortable working on your car, undertaking the repairs yourself enables you to save a lot of money. Find the instructions for replacing the door. These can be acquired from dealerships and sometimes your local auto parts store. Manuals can be purchased for as little as $20 to $50, and make up the bulk of your cost besides the replacement parts themselves.

Have Someone Else Do The Work

The least stressful and time-consuming way to replace your car door is to have someone else do all the work for you. Body shops will find all the necessary parts and install them. Shop around at several many body shops until you get a feel for what the price should be. Prices you get quoted may vary greatly. Be suspicious of unusually low quotes. You get what you pay for. Dealerships have a reputation for being a little more expensive, but are worth looking into as well. Besides the cost of the car door itself, labor costs at reputable businesses run upwards of $50 per hour, sometimes as high as $120 per hour. Count on your car to be in the shop for at least 2 to 3 days after the parts have arrived. Those needing paint work should figure in another day or two, as well as additional fees of around $40 per hour for the paint job.

Seatbelts are an essential tool to staying safe while driving. Statistics show a 50% increase in survival rate when wearing a seatbelt during a crash. However, a seatbelt or belt buckle that is damaged in any way wont provide the protection you need. Do not attempt to repair damaged seatbelts or belt buckles, they should be replaced by a professional mechanic at a trusted auto body shop. Heres how to go about setting up repair of your seatbelt buckle.

Instructions

Getting your seatbelt buckle repaired

1

Stop by the auto body shop you use and show them the damaged buckle.

2

Set up a time to have the seatbelt/buckle replaced. If you have the time, have the belt replaced that day, as it may take a couple hours. Otherwise, make an appointment for another day.

3

The shop will make the repairs.

4

Pick up the car and pay any costs you owe.

The headlamps on your Lexus are programmed to stay on after you have exited your vehicle. This is beneficial if it is dark and you need the light from your headlamps to walk up to your house or into a public place. The default time for the headlamps to remain on is 30 seconds. You can change this value to be longer, or you can adjust it so that your headlamps do not stay on at all when turn off the engine. You will need a special diagnostic tester to perform these steps.

Instructions

1

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "On" position.

2

Connect the Lexus diagnostic tester to the DLC3 port on the vehicle. The DLC3 port is located on the lower left side panel and is clearly labeled.

3

Turn on the diagnostic tester and select the "Customize" option.

4

Select "Verify Connections," press the "Yes" button, and press "Enter."

5

Select function "08" which is "Light Control."

6

Go to "Light Off Delay" and set it to your desired value. You can either choose 30 seconds, 60 seconds, 90 seconds or immediate off.

A key element of handling a vehicles movement is its steering mechanism, which includes the tie rods. Through the years, steering has become easier to maneuver, but the mechanism within the car has evolved into many small, intricate parts.

Function

The inner tie rods of a steering system, or rack-and-pinion steering system, move the force of the steering wheel movement to the wheels to turn the vehicle. If they become faulty, steering can become difficult.

Significance

It is apparent when the inner tie rods need replacement by the feel of the steering wheel. If the steering meanders, feels unsteady, or if the tread on the front tires is wearing down unevenly, this could indicate worn-out inner tie rods.

Considerations

Be aware that noise coming from the rack-and-pinion system doesnt necessarily mean that it is the inner tie rods causing it. Inspect the system thoroughly to verify if this is the case, since many noise problems come from the entire movement of the rack assembly itself.

The Jeep Wrangler is a compact sport utility vehicle with four-wheel drive produced by Chrysler since 1987. The engine in all versions of the 2000 Jeep Wrangler is a 6-cylinder 4.0-liter which uses multi-port fuel injection. This type of fuel injection requires an electric fuel pump that delivers fuel to the engine under high pressure. The fuel pump in a 2000 Jeep Wrangler is located in the fuel tank, which you must remove in order to replace the fuel pump.

Instructions

1

Remove the fuel pump relay from the power distribution center. Start the engine, and allow it to run until it stalls. Crank the engine to ensure that it will not start, and turn the ignition switch to the off position. Disconnect the cable to the batterys negative terminal with a socket wrench to prevent accidental sparking while you work on the vehicle.

2

Drain the fuel tank by siphoning the fuel through the filler cap opening into a container approved for gasoline. Disconnect the fuel filler from the body of the vehicle with a socket wrench. Remove the right rear tire and its wheelhouse liner to gain access to the two vapor lines for the fuel tank, and disconnect the vapor lines. Detach the electrical connector and fuel supply line for the fuel tank.

3

Support the fuel tank with a transmission jack, and remove the bolts that hold the fuel tank to the skid plate. Lower the fuel tank slightly, so you can disconnect the fuel filler hose from the fuel tank. Remove the nuts for the fuel tank straps, and separate the fuel tank from the skid plate. Remove the fuel tank from the vehicle.

4

Place special tool 9340 into the notches on the outside edge of the lock ring of the fuel pump. Attach a 1/2-inch breaker bar to the special tool, and rotate the breaker bar counterclockwise. Remove the lock ring from the fuel pump module, and detach the fuel pump module from the fuel tank. Discard the gasket on the fuel tank.

5

Install a new gasket on the fuel tank, and install the new fuel pump into the fuel tank. Place the locking ring on the fuel pump module, and align the arrow on the locking ring with the center alignment mark on the fuel pump module. Turn the locking ring clockwise with special tool 9340 until the notches on the locking ring engage. Install the fuel tank by reversing steps 3 and 2. Tighten the nuts for the fuel tank strap so there is 30 mm of clearance between the bottom of the nuts and the end of the strap studs. Tighten the nuts for the skid plate to 141 inch-lbs. with a torque wrench. Fill the fuel tank, and connect the cable to the negative terminal of the battery. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.

Hot engine coolant goes through the tube of your heater core as part of a process that results in bringing heat to your vehicle. When this part needs to be removed, information on what to do before, during and after removal can be helpful.

Before Removal

On the passenger side of an automobile under the dash is a box that the heater core is in. You should notice the steel clamps that are screwed in to secure the heater core. You can take off the clamps and screws to free the core.

During Removal

Because water will be present in your heater core as you remove it, you should provide some form of cover for your vehicles carpet. You should be caul when taking out the heater core, as it may take a little elbow grease to pull it loose.

After Removal

After you have taken the heater core out, you can replace it with a new one and check the results. Once everything is installed, filling the system with water will allow you to perform a leak check. The heat should be turned up full blast while checking for signs of leaks.

Having electrically powered windows on your Ford Taurus is a great convenience, but in the event that the power windows fail to function correctly, it can be an equally irritating inconvenience. The problem may be a simple circuit issue, a relay switch, a blown or faulty fuse or a regulator, among other possibilities. It is important that, before buying any new components, you do some troubleshooting to determine the exact reason for the fault.

Instructions

1

Check the fuses first by locating the fuse panel. On the Ford Taurus, you will note that there is a fuse box under the hood as well as another one under the driver-side foot well. The fuses for the electric power windows are on the underside of the foot well and near the steering column.

2

Unclip the panel and reveal the fuses. Take out the appropriate fuses that correspond to the power windows and check their condition. Good fuses will be clean and silver with a good connection to the circuit.

3

Assess the condition of the electrical switches. If all four windows are working intermittently but not fully operational for the remainder of the time, the problem could lie in the relay switch. If one window is having trouble but the other three are all working correctly, it could be the motor for that particular window. Usually the drivers window is the first to fail because it gets far more use than the others.

4

Remove the door panel by unclipping the plastic grommets and the screws around the door. One small screw will be located just above the door latch on the inside of the panel. Pop the panel off and locate the screw inside the door pull.

5

Unclip the switch cover and dislocate the relay plugs from the connectors inside the door panel. You will note that they are bundled up inside the metal door skin. Check the plug connections and replace them. If the windows still do not work, you may need to replace the motor for the window. The motor is attached to the bottom of an "X" shaped frame inside the door skin and is a small, silver and black barrel in the lower center of the frame. These are hard to remove, so you may need to take your car to a mechanic to have the motor replaced.

It is illegal to drive with any type of crack in the drivers field of vision. Knowing the causes, solutions, and preventative measures you can take regarding cracks will be helpful in keeping them at bay.

Causes

Most major are the result of chips in the glass left unattended. These chips come from small objects hitting the windshield. Many chips result from stones hitting the cars windshield, specifically around the black sun repelling edge, and are not noticeable until the chip turns into a large crack.

Repair Solutions

Depending on what type of crack you have, you may have to change the entire windshield or simply fill in a chip. Replacing the entire windshield typically is done by a company that often comes right to you. If you simply have a small chip in your windshield, you can purchase a repair kit.

Prevention

Tthere are certain products that you can put around the black edge of your windshield, which has been deemed as the weakest part, as a means of protecting that susceptible area from chips that will eventually turn into cracks. This includes a thin layer of plastic around the outside edge of the windshield.

In the 100 years of the motorcycles existence, it has seen many changes. The Shovelhead motor, named for the shape of the top of the motor, has received a lot of use in those years. Changing out the exhaust system can increase performance and change the tune of exhaust note, giving you a different riding experience. Installing an exhaust on a Shovelhead motor isnt difficult, and can be done within an hour or so with the right tools.

Instructions

1

Install the allen key socket onto the 3/8-inch ratchet and extension, then unbolt the stock exhaust system from the engine. You may need to use a 3/8-inch universal joint to get around the tubing in some sections.

2

Unbolt the exhaust from the frame of the bike at the end of the tailpipes using the 3/8-inch ratchet and socket. Place the exhaust system to the side of the vehicle.

3

Mount the new exhaust system onto the motorcycle and bolt the new exhaust to the motor using the allen key socket on the 3/8-inch ratchet and extension. You may need to use a 3/8-inch universal joint to get around the tubing in some sections.

4

Bolt the pipes of the exhaust system to the frame of the bike using the factory hardware and the 3/8-inch ratchet and socket. Start the bike and listen for any exhaust leaks. If you hear some, tighten down the exhaust system on the engine again.

The intake manifold for an delivers fuel and air to the engine in a precise ratio. International Harvester made an eight-cylinder 6.9-liter diesel engine from 1982 until 1987. This engine commonly appears in Ford F series trucks during this period, especially F-250 and F-350 models. The removal of the intake manifold in a Ford truck with a 6.9-liter engine requires you to remove the injection pump and other components to access the intake manifold.

Instructions

1

Remove the cables from the negative terminals of both batteries with a socket wrench. Disconnect the air cleaner from the intake manifold. Plug the air intake of the intake manifold with clean shop rags to keep debris out of the engine.

2

Detach the electrical connectors from the injection pump. Remove the bracket for the fast idle solenoid with a socket wrench, so you can access the mounting bolts for the injector pump. Disconnect the cables for the cruise control and accelerator from the throttle lever, if your vehicle is so equipped. Remove the bracket for the accelerator cable and push it out of the way.

3

Remove the fuel lines, in the elbow inlet and fitting adapter from the injection pump with a socket wrench. Rotate the injection pump out of the way, and disconnect the fuel lines from the injection nozzles. Cap all fuel lines and injection pump fittings with fuel system protective cap set T83T-9395-A to keep debris out of the fuel system.

4

Disconnect the retaining nuts from the the injection pump with tool T83T-9000-B. Detach the injection pump from its adapter, and remove the injection pump from the engine.

5

Disconnect the fuel return lines from the rear injection nozzles on the number seven and number eight cylinders. Detach the fuel return line on the fuel tank, and disconnect the electrical wiring harness from the engine. Remove the ground cables for the engine wiring harness from the left cylinder head.

6

Remove any additional components necessary to access the intake manifold on your vehicle. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the intake manifold with a socket wrench, and remove the intake manifold from the cylinder heads.

A vehicles water pump is used to push engine coolant through the cooling system to keep the engine from overheating. In the 1991 Honda Accord the engine itself, through the use of the timing belt, drives the water pump. If the water pump fails the engine could overheat and cause major damage. If this happens, the old water pump will need to be removed and replaced with a new one. In the 1991 Honda Accord, the water pump is located on the left side of the engine just behind the front left tire.

Instructions

Removal

1

Disconnect the battery from the motor by removing the cable going to the negative pole on the battery. This is to ensure that there is no electricity going to the car so nothing can short.

2

Empty the coolant from the engine by opening the plug in the bottom of the radiator. Let the coolant drain into a clean container so that it can be re-used after the installation of the new water pump.

3

Align the timing marks on the engine by turning the crankshaft until cylinder number one reaches top dead center (TDC) of the compression stroke. Take off the timing belt and make sure that the engine doesnt turn at any time during the removal or replacement process.

4

Unscrew the six bolts holding in the water pump, making sure to keep track of which hole each bolt came from. The bolt heads are 1 mm in diameter.

5

Pull the water pump and O-ring from the motor to complete the removal process.

Installation

6

Place some sealant on the rubber surface of the new water pump located near the bleed hole to protect it from tearing.

7

Insert the new O-ring and water pump into the spot where the old pump came from on the motor. Make sure that the holes for the bolts on the new pump are lined up with the holes on the motor.

8

Replace the six bolts on the new water pump. Use a torque wrench to tighten them to 9 ft.-lbs. of torque.

9

Replace the timing belt on the engine and pour the coolant from its container back into the radiator. Make sure the engine coolant is completely filled before starting your vehicle.

10

Reconnect the battery to the motor by connecting the negative wire to the negative battery terminal and start your vehicle. Check for any excessive leaking coming from the newly installed water pump. A small amount of fluid coming from the bleed hole is okay.

When an automobile encounters bumps or other things that cause rough driving, struts work to soften the effects of this. However, struts that need to be replaced will lose these characteristics. This is one reason why having information on struts and repairs can be beneficial.

Tools

In many instances, the strut can be swung out from underneath the vehicle once the upper part has been unbolted. However, this is not always the case. In many strut jobs, a special type of pipe wrench, or spanner wrench, will be needed.

Replacement

A rebuildable strut has cartridges, and allows for repairs simply by changing out old cartridges with new ones. These jobs can be accomplished without completely having to remove the struts. Other replacement jobs require that the upper bearing plate be removed before changing cartridges.

Tips

Strut replacement often is followed by wheel alignment. Because of this, it can be beneficial to mark the location of the upper strut mounts before getting started. By doing this, wheel alignment can be somewhat maintained, and there should be less adjustments needed once the strut job is completed.

Power steering hoses carry fluid to and from the steering gear to operate the power steering system, and the pump supplies the necessary pressure for operation of the power steering rack or gearbox.

Power Steering Hose

Multiple power steering hoses are in a typical power steering unit. The cost of the parts required to repair the hose ranges from $60 to $100 in a common domestic car, like the Ford Taurus, according to RepairPal in Nov. 2010, and between $15 and $225 for a new foreign car like the Mercedes-Benz CLS550.

Power Steering Pump

The cost of parts for a power steering pump repair in a common domestic car ranges from $120 to $151, and from $210 to $640 in a foreign luxury car; although prices for pumps in auto parts stores can exceed $1000.

Labor

Labor to repair a power steering hose ranges from $100 to $125 for a common domestic car and from $180 to $230 in a luxury foreign car. Power steering pump labor costs range from $120 to $150 for a common domestic car and from $220 to $280 in a luxury foreign car.

Most modern vehicles have sensors within their fluid systems to monitor levels, temperatures and pressures. These sensors --- oil pressure, coolant temperature and brake fluid level, for example --- are under constant pressure and can slowly leak through the threads holding them in place. Loctite 565 thread sealer creates a seal within the threads to prevent this fluid from leaking.

Instructions

1

Remove the component you intend to use the Loctite 565 sealer on, and clean the male and female threads with a clean, lint-free cloth.

2

Apply a medium-sized bead of the Loctite thread sealer around the male leading threads of the component, but do not put sealer on the first threads.

3

Fill the valleys of the threads by spreading the Loctite sealer with a small, firm-bristled paintbrush.

4

Apply a thin bead of sealer to the female threads.

5

Reinstall the removed component. Allow the sealer to cure for at least 24 hours prior to letting any fluid reach this component.

The 1995 Chevrolet Suburban is available with a V-8 engine, which has a cylinder head on each side. The cylinder head forms part of the combustion chamber, and contains the poppet valves and spark plugs. A cracked cylinder head can contaminate the Suburbans oil supply with coolant, giving the oil a milky appearance. The components you need to remove to install a cylinder head on a 1995 Chevrolet Suburban are different for each head. The replacement of both cylinder heads requires up to nine hours of labor.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Drain the coolant from the radiator into a container, and store it for later use. Disconnect the intake manifold and exhaust manifolds from the vehicle.

2

Disconnect the attaching bolt from the air pipe on the right cylinder head with a socket wrench, and detach the pipe. Remove the mounting bolts from the air compressor on the right cylinder head, and push the compressor aside. Remove the fuel line and spark plug wire from the right cylinder head. Detach the ground wire from the right side cylinder head.

3

Disconnect the mounting bolt from the main accessory bracket, and detach the bracket from the left cylinder head. Push the bracket aside to obtain access to the left cylinder head. Detach the coolant sensor wire and spark plug wires from the rear of the left cylinder head.

4

Disconnect the covers for the cylinder heads with a socket wrench, and unscrew the spark plugs from the cylinder heads. Loosen the retaining nuts for the rocker arms, and rotate the rocker arms to obtain access to the push rods. Record the position of the push rods, and remove the push rods from the cylinder heads.

5

Remove the mounting bolts from the cylinder heads with a socket wrench, and lift the heads from the engine block. Remove the gasket from the engine block, and clean any remaining traces of gasket material from the engine block with a gasket scraper. Mount a new gasket to the engine block so that the word HEAD on the gasket faces up. Place the new cylinder head on the engine block.

6

Clean the mounting bolts for the cylinder heads with a shop cloth, and fasten them to the cylinder head by hand. Tighten the cylinder head bolts with a torque wrench in three passes. The first pass must tighten them to 25 foot-pounds, the second pass must tighten them to 45 foot-pounds and the third pass must tighten them to 65 foot-pounds.

7

Place the push rods in their original positions on the cylinder head that you recorded in step four. Move the rocker arms back into position and tighten their mounting bolts with a socket wrench. Replace the covers for the cylinder heads, and install the spark plugs.

8

Replace the components you removed in step three if you removed the left cylinder head. Replace the components you removed in step two if you removed the right cylinder head. Refill the radiator with coolant, and attach the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench.

The automatic stability control component of the suspension system in approximately 1,970 2006 Hyundai models is the focus of a recall that began on July 29, 2005, according to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration. The NHTSA campaign ID number is 05V316000

Identification

Problems with rear suspension are more likely to occur on models equipped with 3.3-liter engines and electronic stability control. Sonatas and Azerras produced from May 5, 2005, to June 10, 2005, are among the affected vehicles. Strut problems are not as common on the Hyundai I4.

Electronic Stability Control

Electronic stability control identifies over-steering and activates the front outside brake. In the affected models, ESC may be activated unnecessarily. Testing revealed that the hydraulic electronic control unit required reprogramming in accordance with the National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act. Owners of the affected vehicles may also experience a thunking or klunking sound.

Solution

Hyundai dealerships may recommend installation of a rubber bushing on top of left and right rear strut mounts or replacement of struts. This particular job requires approximately 30 minutes of labor.

There may be a few different reasons why a muffler on the exhaust system of your vehicle goes bad. Although many new systems are constructed of stainless steel, mufflers can deteriorate from the inside out due to condensation built up inside of them. External muffler deterioration can occur on cars driven on roads where salt is used in excess during winter. No matter what the geographical region, the muffler and other exhaust components are going to require replacement after extended use.

The Basics of Muffler Installation

Every model of every make of car and truck has its own unique exhaust system. This presents certain challenges when trying to replace a muffler. The position of the muffler on most cars is near the back bumper, on the left or right side. However, on a light truck or SUV, the muffler may be found directly behind the catalytic converter, about halfway down the exhaust system. This type of system employs a longer tailpipe that hops over the rear axle.

Before removing the muffler, its important to inspect and study the system to determine what you have to work with, and how youre going to put it back together, as close as possible to its original positioning. Exhaust systems are caully measured and employ flex pipe sections (an accordion-shaped pipe section covered in mesh), or rubber hangers with pipe and muffler hooks (or all of the above). The positioning of the hooks and hangers is important to ensure the system is restored properly after installation of any new exhaust component. The flex sections and rubber hangers are integrated on exhaust systems to allow movement of the system when the motor starts and under heavy torque demand. Engines move around in their cradle quite a bit, and if the exhaust system didnt allow for the movement of the engine, they would snap off.

When installing a new muffler, youll need to make proper measurements to ensure the new muffler is positioned exactly, or as close to exact as possible to the original. This will ensure that the rest of the system is not tweaked slightly due to the new muffler installation. There is very little margin for error allowed on exhaust systems these days.

Flanges, Clamps and Welds

Is the muffler attached to the pipes in front and/or behind it by flange connections, clamps or is it welded? Knowing the answer to this question will determine what tools you will need to successfully install the new muffler.

Flange connections may seem easier to work with, but the bolt or stud connections will undoubtedly be rusty and difficult to separate. Oxyacetylene torches will easily cut through the old bolts or studs, but are dangerous to use unless the car is up on a commercial lift.

Clamp connections present a challenge once the clamp is removed because the clamp has crimped the connection in a circular fashion. This crimp needs to be worked out enough to allow separation of the pipe and muffler. Again, use a torch to heat up the crimp (cherry red) and then move the muffler back and forth and lift it up and down to decrease the crimp.

Welded systems also present their own challenge. Very rarely will you find a system welded to the muffler that allows you to cut the pipe in front of the muffler with an exhaust cut-off tool, and then rehang the muffler without compromising its positioning. In many of these cases, special pipes need to be made in order to attach to the inlet of the muffler and to the exhaust pipe. Another easier, but less cost effective suggestion, is to replace the system, from the catalytic converter back, in sections. Most all aftermarket exhaust systems feature the systems in separate components, to make it easier to reinstall.

Not an Easy Job for the Back Yard

For the do-it-yourself exhaust enthusiast, working on an exhaust system while laying on your back is not a fun job. Trying to tackle the challenges presented in Section 2 is going to be frustrating and youer going to lose strength and leverage. Exhaust systems can be hard enough to work on when theyre on a commercial lift, but youll have more strength and leverage and more mobility to move when working with torches.

There are some exceptions to the rule. There are some makes and models where the muffler can simply be cut off and a new one retrofitted back on by employing sleeve connections and clamps. This is hardly ever the rule. And the newer the vehicles, the more complicated and technical the exhaust systems are going to be.

Safety Concerns

There are many safety issues to consider when removing and installing a muffler on a vehicle. Safety glasses or goggles should be worn to prevent rust from getting into your eyes. Safety gloves made of thick leather should be worn to prevent injury to your hands, or when using a torch. The vehicle should be lifted and supported properly on a commercial lift or on jack stands and car ramps. While removing and installing a muffler, youll be shaking the exhaust system around, and a vehicle not properly supported can fall and cause serious or fatal injuries.

A Dana type 35 differential gear is a widely used rear gear in off-road vehicles. Extreme driving conditions can damage important parts, such as the rear gear. You will need to rebuild a Dana 35 rear differential gear after a major break as this is the only way to fix a broken gear of this type. The problem is common, but the fix is easy.

Instructions

1

Park the vehicle on a level surface then raise it with a jack and set it on jack stands. Remove the wheels with a lug wrench and set them aside. Remove the brake drums by hitting them with a hammer and pulling them free from the wheel studs.

2

Use a wrench to disconnect the drive shaft by separating it at the universal joint. Separate the springs from the rear axle housing with the wrench. Remove the differential cover by unscrewing the bolts with the wrench then drain the gear oil from the housing into a catch pan. Always recycle waste fluids according to local environmental regulations. Scrape the old gasket off the differential housing with a paint scraper while the oil drains.

3

Unscrew the Dana 35 center pins locking pin with the wrench to release the center pin. This locking pin is located on the outside of the housing on the back of the rear axle. Remove the center pin from the gear carrier inside the axle housing. Go to one end of the axle and push in on the end. Return to the differential and pull the clip off the end of the axle you just pushed in. Repeat for the other end then pull both out of the axle housing and set them aside.

4

Loosen the carrier bolts of the gear. Remove these bolts and pull the gear carrier out. Some gears will have shims wedged around the carrier to prevent the gear from moving from side to side. If the carrier does not come out easily, you can gently pry it out with a screwdriver. For hard to remove carriers, use a pry bar but make sure you do not damage the housing.

5

Remove the oil ring gear and replace it with a new one. Torque the retaining bolts to 70 foot-pounds. Reinsert the carrier into the housing. Lubricate the bearing caps with gear oil. Reinstall both axle ends, replace the center pin and tighten the locking bolt on the outside of the axle housing.

6

Install a new differential gasket and secure the differential cover back into place. Fill the differential with gear oil through the fill cap located on the outside of the Dana 35 gear housing. Raise the vehicle with the floor jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the vehicle onto the ground.

A damper bolt is a small bolt on the crank assembly of a car which helps facilitate rotating of the crank assembly and ensures your car is operating properly. The damper bolts hold the damper in place, with the damper attached to the motor of a car. Even if you installed your damper bolts tightly and turned them down all the way, they may still vibrate. It is important to fix the vibrating on the bolts to ensure your car is safe to drive.

Instructions

1

Pop the hood of your car and locate the serpentine belt, a single, continuous belt used to drive various devices in the car. Attach a 13mm wrench to the tensioner pulley on the inside of the belt and rotate it downwards to pull off the belt.

2

Pull the tensioner pulley out away from the car and set it aside so you can put it back on later once you have properly tightened the damper down in place. Locate the damper underneath where the tensioner pulley was and find the three bolts holding it in place.

3

Inspect all of the bolts and determine which ones are loose. Match up the size of the bolts with a wrench. The bolts will likely be 13mm so use the same wrench you used to remove the tensioner pulley and tighten down the damper bolts.

4

Slide the wrench over the top of the loose bolt and turn it clockwise to tighten it down in place. Continue turning until the bolt is as tight as you can get it by hand. Repeat the process for all of the other bolts just to verify they have been tightened down enough.

5

Slide the tensioner pulley back in place and tighten it down with the wrench. Turn on the car and test out the damper bolts to verify they are not vibrating while the car is running.