So Fix it

The Isuzu Rodeo was a pickup truck manufactured by Isuzu from 1988 to 2002, when the D-Max replaced it. The 2001 Rodeo may have a four-cylinder, 2.2L engine or a six-cylinder, 3.2L engine. All versions of the 2001 Isuzu Rodeo use multi-port fuel injection, which requires a high-pressure electric fuel pump. The fuel pump in these vehicles is located on top of the fuel tank, which requires you to remove the fuel tank to gain access to it.

Instructions

1

Remove the filler cap, and disconnect the fuel pump relay in the relay box under the hood. Start the engine and allow it to stall. Crank the engine for an additional 30 seconds and turn the ignition off. Drain the fuel tank, and disconnect the cable to the batterys negative terminal with a socket wrench.

2

Disconnect the fuel filler lines and vent lines from the fuel tank. Remove the skid plate for the fuel tank. Disconnect the electrical connector from the fuel tank. Disconnect the fuel supply line and the fuel return line from the fuel tank.

3

Raise the vehicle with a floor jack and support the fuel tank with a jack stand. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the fuel tank with a socket wrench. Lower the fuel tank to the ground with the jack. Remove the fuel pump assembly from the fuel tank.

4

Install the new fuel pump assembly to the fuel tank. Connect the fuel tank and tighten its mounting bolts to a torque of 27 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Connect the fuel supply line and fuel return line to the fuel tank. Connect the electrical connector to the fuel tank.

5

Attach the skid plate to the fuel tank. Connect the fuel filler line and vent line to the fuel tank. Connect the cable to the batterys negative terminal and fill the tank with fuel. Start the engine and inspect the fuel lines for leaks.

You can disable the seat belt alarms in a Ford F-250 at home, saving yourself time and money. The F-250 comes standard with the Belt-Minder system. This illuminates a seat belt light on the instrument panel and sounds a bell when the vehicle is started. This system is to remind you to fasten seat belts, and the alarm stops after belts are fastened. However, some people may find it annoying and want to disable it. Remember that if you do disable the system, it still is the law in most states to fasten your seat belt before driving.

Instructions

1

Put the key into the ignition. Turn it to the "run" position, taking care to not start the engine. The seat belt alarm will chime after 60 seconds, and the seat belt light will illuminate on the instrument panel.

2

Fasten and unfasten the drivers side safety belt nine times in 50 seconds after the seat belt light shuts off. Notice that the SRS light becomes illuminated on the instrument panel.

3

Fasten and unfasten the drivers seat belt once within 10 seconds of the SRS light turning on. The light will flash 12 times within 3 seconds to warn you that the alarm is disabled. Repeat for the passengers seat.

A heater core in a vehicle is a radiator which contains hot coolant from the engine. The coolant passes through the heater core when the heater is turned on, and releases heat inside the vehicle. The heater core in a 1991 Eagle Premier is part of the heating and air conditioning unit. This requires you to remove the heating and air conditioning unit prior to installing the heater core.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Drain the coolant from the radiator, and store it for later use.

2

Discharge the rigerant in the air conditioning system with an approved rigerant recycling machine. This step requires a licensed mechanic.

3

Remove the lower trim cover of the instrument panel with a socket wrench, and disconnect the support rod for the instrument panel. Remove the screw that attaches the electrical wiring harness for the steering column to the instrument panel bulkhead.

4

Disconnect the automatic shift cable from the drive lever with a pair of pliers. Pull the sleeve on the steering column down to expose the universal joint. Mark the steering column shaft and the intermediate shaft so you can align the two shafts later. Remove the mounting bolt connecting the two shafts.

5

Disconnect the mounting bolts on the steering column with a socket wrench, and remove the steering column from the instrument panel. Separate the steering column shaft and intermediate shaft, and remove them from the vehicle. Detach the defroster grille from the the instrument panel.

6

Remove the screws that attach the parking brake handle with a socket wrench, and lower the handle. Detach the ashtray and electrical connector for the cigarette lighter. Disconnect the mounting bolts that attach the instrument panel to the floor. Detach the interior temperature sensor and duct extension from the floor of the vehicle.

7

Detach the hoses from the heater core, and unplug the electrical connector from the coolant level switch. Disconnect the reservoir for the coolant from the heater unit. Detach the electrical connector for the blower motor, and remove the vacuum lines from the heater unit. Detach the rigerant lines from the dash panel.

8

Remove the retaining nuts from the heater unit with a socket wrench, and pull the heater unit toward the rear of the vehicle to remove it. Release the tabs on the heater unit housing, and remove the heater core. Push the new heater core into the housing so that the tabs snap into place. Ensure that the gaskets on the heater housing form a tight seal.

9

Perform steps three through seven in reverse order to install the heater unit into the vehicle. Align the steering column shaft and the intermediate shaft according to the marks you made in step four. Tighten the bolts that fasten the steering column to the instrument panel to 35 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

10

Recharge the air conditioning system with rigerant. This step requires a qualified mechanic.

11

Attach the cable to the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Refill the radiator with coolant, and check for any coolant leaks.

Ford vehicles feature two types of headlights: large one-piece lamps, which are called sealed-beam headlamps; and composite headlights, which have bulbs that plug into the glass housing from the rear of the headlight. Broken sealed-beam headlights cannot be repaired. Composite headlights, however, can be replaced in just a few minutes.

Instructions

1

Determine the type of headlight: a two-light system, which will have low and high beams in one unit; or a four-light part system, which has separate low and high beam lights. Sealed-beam headlights can be either square or round.

2

Remove the headlight housing trim by unscrewing the screws holding it in place. Remove the retaining ring by unscrewing the retaining screws while holding the back of the lamp in place. Lower it from the frame and unplug it from the back (three prongs on an two-light system; two prongs on a four-light system). Do not remove the two aiming screws, one on the top or bottom of the housing unit and another on the side. Both are spring-loaded and are not holding the retaining ring in place.

3

Clean the trim, retaining ring and socket that the new lamp will sit in. Make certain there is no corrosion and the wires on the plug are in good condition.

4

Plug in the new headlight and push the light into the socket. Make certain the writing on the headlight is at the top when you are pushing the light into the socket, which has grooves to navigate the lamp into place, guiding bumps on top of the lamp into the socket.

5

Screw the retaining screws into place, while holding the new headlight in place. Screw the trim back into place.

The Chevrolet Sprint was designed with fuel economy in mind. The manufacturer developed the Sprint with only a three-cylinder engine, while the competition was designing cars with four cylinders. This gave Chevrolet an advantage over the foreign carmakers for a while as they scurried to develop vehicles to compete. If your Chevy Sprint has an overheating issue, you can troubleshoot it yourself before you take it to your mechanic, possibly saving some money.

Instructions

1

Make sure your Chevy Sprint is completely cool before you start troubleshooting.

2

Pull the hood latch and open it up. Find the radiator in front of the engine -- it has a cap on it that says "radiator."

3

Remove the radiator cap by flipping up the pressure release tab on the top of the cap and turning the cap counterclockwise. Set the cap to the side.

4

Look inside the radiator through where the cap was. Make sure that the water level is to the top. Your Sprint can overheat if there is not enough coolant in the radiator.

5

Start up your Sprint engine. Make sure the radiator cap is still off the radiator. Look inside the top of the radiator and watch the coolant. Let the engine warm up. When the engine is warm, the water inside the radiator should drop down and then start to circulate. If you do not see the water level change or start to circulate, it is a sign that you have an issue with your thermostat. The thermostat is located in the housing cover where the top radiator hose is connected. You can follow the top radiator directly to this housing. If the thermostat is not opening when the engine gets warm, then your Sprint engine is certain to overheat . A bad thermostat is the most common reason why a Chevrolet Sprint will overheat.

6

Listen for the cooling fan to come on. When the engine reaches a certain level of warmth, the electric cooling fan will come on to cool down the engine. The cooling fan is mounted on the back side of the radiator. If the fan does not come on when the engine gets warm, then your Chevy Sprint engine will overheat.

7

Check for coolant leaks. Look on the ground under the engine. Look at the radiator and all the hoses coming in and out of the radiator. If you see any steam or leaks, this is the cause of the overheating problem. Replace any leaking hoses or leaking parts. The cooling system must always be pressurized to work properly.

Gel cell batteries provide advantages over lead-acid wet cell batteries, but there are also safety hazards associated with them.

Differences Between "Wet" and "Gel" Cell Batteries

Lead-acid batteries are all similar; lead plates are connected in cells and surrounded by an acid that creates a chemical reaction resulting in an electrical voltage. Water must be added periodically to maintain a liquid level in a wet cell. A gel cell also contains acid, but it has been gelled and sealed in the battery case. No maintenance is needed. The battery may be placed in different positions without fear of leakage.

Charging Safety for Gel Batteries

If too high a charging voltage is applied, the case can be over-pressurized and can explode. A charger designed for gel batteries should always be used.

Other Safety Considerations

Never allow any open flames or smoking when charging gel cell batteries. Never allow the positive and negative terminals of the battery to be directly connected, for example from a dropped tool. The direct connection can result in an explosion. Replace leaking batteries. Protect your skin and eyes from acid.

Auto scanners are devices used to read codes to establish a cars defects. These devices interpret codes and diagnose the problem, enabling the car owner to fix the car or to look for an automobile dealer to do it. You can either use the auto scanner directly by connecting it to the car or use it on a laptop to display the results of the diagnosis.

Instructions

1

Acquire knowledge of auto scanners, which is very vital since it enables you to not only operate it successfully but also identify its various functionality purposes. Technical terms are used to differentiate the various parts of the auto scanner, and a base of knowledge of the device will be of tremendous help. Once you have become familiarized with the various terms and parts of the auto scanner, you can proceed with comparison of the different auto scanners.

2

Explore in detail the specific requirements that aid the working of an auto scanner. Most of these auto scanners require that the car is computer-enabled so as to be able to identify the needs that go along with them. When you have become familiarized with the various models, then you can identify the auto scanner that best suits your car. These auto scanners also have their own compatibility issues and may work best on vehicles best suited for their functionality.

3

Investigate the price points for the different auto scanners. Then decide on which brand and model you need. Ensure that you make a wise choice, always keeping in mind the essentials and also the compatibility of the car and the scanner. If you are not able to purchase a certain model, you can go for less costly scanners of standard quality.

4

Ensure that you have sufficient information about how the different auto scanners are maintained and the costs of maintenance.

The BMW 635CSi is part of the BMW 6-series line of vehicles. The struts are part of the cars suspension. Struts prevent the car from bouncing too much. When struts go bad, it is apparent in the handling of the vehicle. Bad struts will begin to affect other parts of the vehicles suspension, so they should be replaced as soon as damage is evident. For best results, both struts should be replaced at the same time, and struts designed to fit on the 635CSi should be used.

Instructions

1

Park the BMW 635CSi on a flat, level surface, and set the parking brake. Loosen the lug nuts with a lug wrench. Place a jack under the center of the vehicle, and jack it up until jack stands can be placed under both axles. Remove the lug nuts with a lug wrench. Remove the wheel.

2

Remove the sway bar end from the strut with a socket wrench. Remove the brake hose bracket with a socket wrench. Loosen the bolts holding the strut to the steering knuckle. Remove the caliper mounting bolts, then remove the caliper. Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts.

3

Remove the bolts from the upper strut mounting bracket with a socket wrench. Remove the lower strut mounting bolts. Remove the strut assembly from the vehicle.

4

Compress the spring on the strut with a strut spring compressor. Remove the shaft nut with an open ended wrench. Remove the strut mount.

5

Thread the strut shaft nut onto the new strut with a torque wrench, and tighten it to the pressure indicated on the strut packaging. Remove the spring compressor.

6

Put the strut assembly in position, and install the lower mounting bolts and the upper mounting bracket with a socket wrench.

7

Reinstall the strut-to knuckle bolts with a socket wrench, but do not tighten them completely. Mount and secure the caliper with a socket wrench. Finish tightening the strut-to-knuckle bolts. Reattach the brake hose bracket and sway bar end.

8

Place the wheel back on the hub, and tighten the lug nuts most of the way with a lug wrench.

9

Repeat the entire procedure with the other strut.

10

Remove the jack stands, and lower the BMW. Tighten all of the lug nuts completely with the lug wrench.

The 2005 Triumph Tiger 955i was the third revision of Triumphs popular, three cylinder, dual-sport motorcycle, first introduced in 1993. The original Tiger, known as the Tiger 900, was powered by an 885 cc motor, fed by three carburetors and designed for more off-road use. In 2001, the motor was increased to 955 cc with electronic fuel injection handling the mixing chores. New cast wheels, revised steering geometry and more street-biased suspension were the biggest changes for the 2005 model year.

Engine/Final Drive

For 2005, the Tigers signature three-cylinder DOHC, or double overhead camshaft, engine remained virtually unchanged from its predecessor, introduced in 2001. Engine bore and stroke stayed at 79 x 85 mm with a compression ratio of 11.65 to 1. Power output was a claimed 104 hp at 9,500 rpm with 67 foot pounds of torque available at 4,400 rpm. Final drive was through a six-speed transmission to an O-Ring chain.

Chassis, Suspension, Brakes

For 2005, the Tigers chassis and suspension were modified to favor back road and highway riding. Though the earlier tubular steel perimeter frame was still used, the bikes swingarm was shortened slightly, reducing wheelbase to 59.5 inches. To fit this new, more street-oriented mission, fork travel was also reduced to 6.8 inches and the spring rate stiffened 10 percent on the Tigers rear monoshock, which offered remote pre-load and rebound adjustment.

Other changes included 14-spoke cast aluminum wheels running 110/80-19 in front and 150/70-17 for the rear tubeless tires. The bikes twin floating brake discs up front and a single rear disc were lightened and both featured two piston calipers.

Physical Dimensions and Capacities

The 2005 Tiger weighed in at 474 pounds without fluids. Seat height was a still lofty 33.1 inches at the lowest setting. The machine measured 54.7 inches high and 33.9 inches wide. Fuel capacity remained at 6.3 U.S. gallons.

Triumph designed the 2005 Tiger 955i to go head-to-head with other so-called "adventure" bikes like BMWs popular R1200GS and Suzukis V-Strom, and as long as riders realized the bike was never intended for serious of-road use, most reviewers felt it hit all its marks.

The EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) valve is an important component to a cars exhaust system and can help your engine run more efficiently. The EGR valve pushes exhaust gas back into the combustion chamber -- this hot gas helps to heat the air and fuel mixture faster, saving the engines energy. If you notice your car has a rough idle, it is recommendable to test the EGR valve. These steps apply to Chevrolet EGR valves.

Instructions

1

Engage the vehicles parking brake, and put the car into neutral (for manual transmission models) or park (for automatic models).

2

Open the hood, and locate the EGR valve, which is on the intake manifold. After you have located it, start the car, let it run for five minutes, and then turn it off.

3

Remove the vacuum hose from the EGR valve. This hose is on the top part of the valve. Once you have removed the vacuum hose, replace it with the hose from the hand vacuum pump.

4

Use the pump on the hand vacuum pump to give 10 inches of vacuum to the EGR valve. Once you have done this, observe the EGR valves diaphragm -- a properly functioning EGR valve remains closed for 15 to 20 seconds with 10 inches of vacuum. If your valve takes longer to open, it is time to replace it because of leakage.

The fuel pump to your 1993 Ford Explorer is designed to pressurize fuel that then travels through the fuel injectors and into the engine. A faulty fuel pump may be responsible for problems related to engine stalling and no-start conditions. Replacing the fuel pump is a procedure that can be done at home if you know how to remove the fuel tank and the fuel pumps fuel feed line and return lines, which are separate procedures that require separate tools. Other than acquiring the replacement parts, there are no special tools needed to perform this task on your own.

Instructions

Removing the Fuel Pump

1

Relieve the fuel pressure system by disconnecting the electrical connector from the inertia shut-off switch, located on the passenger-side floor pan below the heater, and run the Explorer for several seconds until it stops.

2

Siphon the fuel tank until it is empty with a siphoning kit.

3

Remove the negative cable from the battery.

4

Jack the Explorer and support it, using jack stands.

5

Remove the fuel tank. This is a separate procedure.

6

Remove the fuel feed line and the return lines from the fuel pump module. This is a separate procedure.

7

Caully knock loose the fuel-pump-module lock ring counterclockwise, using a brass punch and hammer.

8

Pull out the fuel pump from the fuel tank. Tilt the pump as you are doing this to prevent the fuel level float and sending unit from breaking off in the fuel tank.

9

Replace the O-ring seal on the tank if it is damaged.

10

Separate the electrical connector from the fuel pump. Use a small wrench to loosen the fuel hose lower clamp.

11

Separate the C-clip from the bottom of the fuel pump to remove the pump strainer using a flat-head screwdriver. If the strainer appears too contaminated to be cleaned with solvent, replace it.

Installing the New Fuel Pump

12

Wipe clean the fuel pump mounting area with a rag. Use thick grease for the new O-ring seal and place it around the opening on the fuel tank.

13

Attach the strainer to the new fuel pump and clip on the C-clip.

14

Install the new fuel pump to the fuel pump assembly by connecting the electrical connector to the fuel pump and tightening the clamp with a flat-head screwdriver.

15

Insert the fuel pump assembly into the fuel tank. Be caul not to damage the fuel level float and sending unit when installing the assembly.

16

Tighten the lock ring clockwise until the locking cams are underneath the retaining tangs. The new O-ring seal may make it difficult for it to lock, so you might have to push down while turning the lock ring.

17

Follow steps 6 to 3 of Section 1 in reverse order. Add gas to your Explorer. Follow Step 1 of Section 1 in reverse order to finish.

The BMW 740 is large luxury sedan that delivers limousine comfort in a sporty chassis. The 7 series is so good that it actually serves as the base for many Rolls Royce cars, which BMW also makes. However, it has a lot of electrical gadgets that can go bad, necessitating the removal of the center console to gain access to certain components. Alternatively, you can replace a faded or damaged center console with a replacement to resh the look of the interior.

Instructions

1

Drive the BMW 740 into your garage or driveway because if you perform this removal procedure on the side of the road it will look like you are stealing the stereo. Place the 740 in "Park" and pull the emergency brake to make sure it does not shift while you are working on it. Make sure the car is off before you continue.

2

Pull the two plastic cup holders out from the center arm rest by hand. Unscrew the Philips head screws at the bottom of the cup holder holes. Go to the back seat of the 740 and pull the ash tray out from the rear of the front center arm rest. Unscrew the two Philips head screws that are underneath. Pull the center arm rest up and then back and place it to the side so that it does not get bent. Pull the emergency brake jacket off and the center plastic bezel from around the shifter.

3

Pry the bottom of the center console bezel up with a flat screwdriver. Be very gentle, as you can easily crack the plastic. Work the screwdriver in the seam between the center console bezel and the rest of the dash. Pull the center console bezel straight back and then up once all the pegs are disengaged. Place the center console somewhere safe, as it too is prone to cracking.

According to Jacques Richot of Mister Transmission in Winnipeg, "Most new transmissions are actually rebuilds. Only a few manufacturers sell [transmissions] fully new." Before buying a new transmission, familiarize yourself with the different types.

New Transmissions

Only a handful of companies make new transmissions as replacement parts. In most cases, new transmissions only come with a new car. If a garage offers you a "new" transmission, ask whether it is actually new or a factory-rebuilt transmission.

Used Transmissions

A used transmission is just what it sounds like: a transmission removed from another car. If you buy a used transmission, ask about its condition and whether it has undergone a maintenance check. Also ask about any guarantees that may come with it.

Rebuilt Transmission

Transmission rebuilds usually occur at a garage and may involve the rebuilding of your current transmission. In a rebuild, the mechanic takes apart and cleans your transmission, repairing or replacing any damaged parts.

Remanufactured

Remanufactured transmissions are the same as factory-rebuilt transmissions. The process remains essentially the same as with a rebuilt transmission except a remanufacture occurs in a factory setting. The cars original manufacturer usually performs this job, which usually comes with a guarantee or warranty from the company.

Tip

According to Cottman Transmissions in Des Moines, Iowa, you may save money by pricing the transmission and installation separately. Obtain one quote for the transmission itself and another quote for the cost of installing the transmission. You may be able to buy the transmission elsewhere at a lower price and then pay to have it installed.

Bearings are an integral part of a machines moving components and reduce the amount of friction on rotating parts. Bearing failure is common in high-mileage vehicles and older machines, particularly those in high-wear conditions such as off-road vehicles. In most cases, bearings fit tightly into their housings, making installation difficult. Freezing bearings causes the metal to contract slightly and theore makes it easier to fit the bearing into its housing. When used in conjunction with heating of the housing metal, freezing a bearing is highly effective as an installation method.

Instructions

1

Place bearing in a plastic bag and pack it in dry ice. The dry ice will cool the metal and cause it to shrink in a process called thermal reduction. Leave the bearing in the dry ice for at least 20 minutes before use.

2

Heat the housing metal using a propane torch immediately prior to installation of bearing. This will cause the metal to expand in a process called thermal expansion and will make the housing opening larger to allow for an easier bearing fit. Heating should be performed slowly and evenly without causing metal discoloration.

3

Remove the bearing from the dry ice and plastic, then place it 1/5 of the way into the housing. Use a pair of pliers or channel locks to avoid obtaining burns from the hot housing metal. Ensure it is properly aligned, especially in cases where the bearing fits snugly into the housing. This will prevent damaging and buckling of the bearing material.

4

Tap the bearing into place gently with a deadblow hammer. If the bearing fit is loose, allow the housing metal to cool and the bearing metal to warm before tapping the bearing into place. If large amounts of force are necessary, place a wooden block between the bearing surface and deadblow hammer to prevent bearing surface damage.

5

Measure the recess distance as needed using a precision ruler such as a T-ruler. If the bearing must be placed deep into the housing metal, use a wooden dowel just wide enough to fit into the housing metal to tap the bearing in place. Check the recess distance often to avoid recessing the bearing too far.

While manufacturers engineer engine valves to withstand their Faustian environment for years on end, even slight spikes in operating temperatures can damage these components. The exhaust valves get the worst of it, since they have to pass thousand-degree gases with only milliseconds of respite to cool down between each cycle. There are several easy ways to burn a valve.

Instructions

1

Reduce the amount of fuel injected and cause the mixture to go lean. Lean air/fuel ratios are probably the single most common culprit behind burned valves. Engines arent designed to burn all of the fuel they inhale; a large portion of it exits the cylinder unburned. Leaning out the air/fuel ratio allows more of the fuel to burn, which increases power and fuel economy (to a point), but it also increases the temperatures inside the cylinder. A clogged or malfunctioning fuel injector can also cause a cylinder to go lean, as can an improperly-tuned computer or carburetor.

2

Slide a huge camshaft into the block. After the exhaust valve picks up heat from the combustion chamber, it has to shed the heat into the cylinder head. A certain amount of this thermal transfer occurs through the valve stem, but much of it takes place while the valve remains shut against the valve seat. A big camshaft keeps the valves open longer, decreasing the amount of time they spend in contact with the cylinder head, and thus the amount of thermal energy they can shed during each cycle.

3

Dont install an exhaust manifold or exhaust headers. Old-school wisdom may have it that an engine needs exhaust back-pressure to function, but this is about as true as saying that people have to hold their breath to live. The reason that engines need an exhaust manifold is that the exhaust valve stays open after the piston starts moving downward in the cylinder. Without a manifold, the exhaust gases would shoot out and the piston would suck oxygen in from the outside and into the chamber, causing the mixture to go lean.

4

Advance your timing excessively. Odds are that excessive ignition timing will result in premature detonation (knock or ping) before it does a burned valve, but sustained high-rpm usage combined with excessive timing can easily damage the valves. This is especially true if you combine a bit of extra timing with a large cam and a lean air/fuel ratio, as some hot-rodders are apt to do.

5

Allow your engine to overheat and wear out. All the valve-to-seat contact time in the world wont save your valves if the coolant is either too hot to carry away thermal energy from the head or is absent entirely. Worn valve guides are another potential trouble spot, since the valve stem needs constant contact with the head in order to remain cool.

Prior to the second phase of onboard diagnostics (OBD II), implemented in 1996, many vehicles (including the 1995 Chevrolet Astro Van) came equipped with a single oxygen sensor. This sensor was placed on the manifold or front exhaust pipe to monitor the mixture emitting from the exhaust. Emissions that indicated the engine was running vehicles too lean (too much air) or too rich (too much fuel) would trigger the sensor to communicate to the computer and set off the malfunction indicator lamp. In 1996, the number of oxygen sensors doubled or even quadrupled on vehicles in order to also monitor efficiency of the catalytic converter.

Instructions

1

Apply the parking brake on the Astro Van and then pull the primary hood release latch on the drivers-side kick panel.

2

Open the hood by releasing the secondary hood release latch and then support the hood with the hood prop rod. This will allow some light through the engine compartment for more visibility when changing the oxygen sensor.

3

Lift the front end of the van with the jack and then support it on jack stands placed under the concave frame rails in the front.

4

Put on the safety glasses, gather the remaining items needed and then crawl under the front of the van.

5

Locate the catalytic converter at the center of the exhaust system and follow the exhaust system to the front of the engine. The oxygen sensor is located on the front pipe, below the passenger-side seating area.

6

Spray the penetrating lubricant onto the thread connection of the oxygen sensor-to-front pipe mating surface. Allow a few minutes to pass for the spray to penetrate.

7

Follow the wire on the end of the oxygen sensor to the plug connection of the wire harness (about 8 inches away). Use the small, slotted screwdriver to unlock the clip retainer on the wire harness connection and then unplug the oxygen sensor wire from the wire harness plug.

8

Place the oxygen sensor socket onto the ratchet and align the wire of the oxygen sensor through the slot of the socket. Place the socket firmly onto the oxygen sensor and apply counterclockwise pressure to loosen it from the front pipe. Remove the sensor.

9

Inspect the new direct-fit oxygen sensor threads. Many come equipped with a light coating of electrically conductive anti-seize compound. If there is none on the threads, spread a light coating of the anti-seize compound on the threaded section of the oxygen sensor only. Do not get the compound on the electrode of the sensor.

10

Hand-thread the new sensor into the exhaust port on the front pipe and tighten using fingers as much as possible.

11

Tighten the sensor fully with the socket and ratchet. Only snug the sensor to the front pipe. The threads of the sensors are much softer than the port and can easily strip if over-tightened.

12

Reconnect the oxygen sensor wire to the wire harness plug.

13

Start the engine up and then crawl back under to check for any obvious exhaust leak coming from the oxygen sensor port. If necessary, tighten the sensor a little more until there is no leak.

14

Lower the Astro Van and release the parking brake.

Resetting the Service Engine Light (SEL) on a 2003 Buick should only be performed after the diagnostic trouble code or codes (DTCs) have been properly diagnosed and repaired if necessary. Some codes can be as simple as a small vacuum leak from a loose gas cap, but others can indicate more serious problems. Resetting the light without determining the source of the code(s) can create future problems with other components on the Buick and lead to more expensive repairs.

Instructions

1

Open the drivers side door on the 2003 Buick and locate the diagnostic link connector (DLC) underneath the dashboard. On a LeSabre and Park Avenue, the DLC is located under the dash to the left of the steering column. On the Century and Rendezvous models, the DLC is under the dash directly beneath the steering column. On the Buick Regal, the DLC is located under the dash to the right of the steering column.

2

Plug the OBD II scanner/eraser into the DLC. Because of the DLCs shape and the shape of the plug, there is only one correct way to plug it in.

3

Place the key of the Buick into the ignition and turn the key to the accessory power position. This position illuminates the lights on the instrument cluster and powers all the accessory components without the engine running. It will also provide power to the scanner from the Buicks battery.

4

Press the erase button on the faceplate of the scanner. If the scanner is not equipped with an erase button, follow the onscreen menu and use the scroll or enter button(s) to the erase codes or DTCs option and press the enter button.

5

Allow the onscreen menu of the scanner to default back to its main menu or display a "command sent" message.

6

Start the engine to the Buick and check the instrument cluster to ensure the SEL is no longer displayed. If it still is on or comes back quickly, the code(s) should be diagnosed properly and repairs made if necessary.

Chevrolet introduced the Blazer in 1969 as an SUV version of its full-size pickup truck. The early Blazer evolved into the Chevy Tahoe, and Chevy applied the Blazer name to a new mid-size S-10 SUV in 1983. Chevrolet introduced a newly-designed second generation of the S-10 Blazer in 1995, and the Blazer remained basically the same for the next 10 years. The 1997 Chevy Blazer came in two-wheel-drive and four-wheel-drive trims, but the alignment specs were the same for both. Chevy discontinued the Blazer in 2005.

General Information

The caster, camber and toe-in were adjustable on the front end of the 1997 Chevy Blazer, but not on the rear end because the vehicle came with a fixed rear axle.

Caster

The caster angle measures the forward or rearward slope of the line between the upper and lower steering pivots on a vehicle when viewed from the side of the vehicle. The caster angle on the front end of the 1997 Blazer can range from +0.5 to +3.0 degrees, with the ideal setting being +1.75 degrees with 0.5 degrees of cross tolerance.

Camber

The camber is the vertical angle at which the front wheels of a vehicle lean when viewed from the front of the vehicle. If the the top of the wheel leans out, the camber angle is positive. If the top of wheel leans in, the camber angle is negative. The camber angle on the front end of the 1997 Chevy Blazer can range from zero to +0.5 degrees, with the ideal setting being +0.25 degrees with 0.5 degrees of cross tolerance.

Toe-in

The front wheels of most vehicles are set so that the fronts of the tires will angle slightly toward one another to help take tension off of the wheel bearings. This slight angle is known as the toe-in. The toe-in on the front end of the 1997 Chevy Blazer should be set at +0.1 degrees.

The Lincoln brand is Fords entry in the luxury automobile market. Lincoln makes air suspension standard on their cars to deliver a smoother riding suspension than simple coil springs could deliver. Air suspension uses air bags on the suspension to cushion the frame and to regulate the leveling of the car by pumping air in and out of the bags.

Instructions

1

Inspect the air bags on each suspension strut while the car is off. The air bags will be deflated at this point, but any large tears will be visible. The air bags must be intact in order to hold air. Also check the air line that runs from the upper part of the wheel well to the top of the air bag. If the line is disconnected, then no air can be pumped into the suspension.

2

Park the 1986 Lincoln on a flat area like a parking lot or garage, but keep the car running. Put the car in Park and get out of the car. Listen caully for the pump in the engine bay to inflate the air bags. Look at the corners of the Lincoln and note if any corner is not rising at the same level as the others, or if none of the corners are rising. If one corner is failing to rise, then there may be a small tear in the airbag or the air line running to the bag. If none of the air bags are inflating, then the pump may be broken or the air tank may have a hole in it.

3

Open the trunk of the Lincoln and look at the air tank. If there are any tears in the surface of the tank, then it cannot hold enough pressure to send air to the air bags. Listen for air rushing out of the tank. Inspect the air lines running from the air tank for any tears as well. Turn the car off and watch the corners as they settle down. If any one corner is falling faster than another, that could also indicate a leak in the air bag.

A 3100 engine is a 3.1-liter version of the 60-degree V-6 engines from General Motors. It was in production from 1993 to 2005, and appears in many General Motors vehicles from this period, especially Buicks. The 3100 engine has sequential fuel injection, which uses fuel injectors under electronic control to deliver fuel to the cylinders. The procedure for replacing the fuel injectors in a 3100 engine is the same for all vehicles made after 2000.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the negative battery terminal so you dont start the engine accidentally. Open the filler cap on the fuel tank to relieve the fuel tank pressure.

2

Wrap a shop rag around the pressure test fitting on the fuel rail. Attach a fuel pressure gauge to the fitting, and place the bleed hose on the pressure gauge into a gasoline container. Open the valve on the pressure gauge to relieve the pressure in the fuel rail, and drain the excess fuel into the container.

3

Disconnect the upper intake manifold from the engine with a socket wrench. Detach the fuel send and return lines from the fuel injector. Remove the electrical connectors from the fuel injector and the coolant temperature sensor.

4

Disconnect the fuel rail from the cylinder heads with a socket wrench. Detach the retaining clips from the fuel injector, and remove the fuel injector from the fuel rail. Discard the O-rings on the fuel injector.

5

Lubricate the new O-rings with engine oil, and mount them on the new fuel injector. Connect the fuel injector to the fuel rail, and attach the retaining clips to the fuel injector. Install the fuel rail to the engine, and torque its mounting bolts to 7 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

6

Attach the electrical connectors for the coolant temperature sensor and fuel injector. Connect the fuel send and return lines to the fuel injector, and tighten their retaining nuts to 13 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Install the upper intake manifold, and tighten its mounting bolts to 18 foot-pounds.

7

Attach the negative battery cable with a socket wrench, and fasten the fuel filler cap. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.

The Ford 6.0 Power Stroke is an eight-cylinder 6.0-liter engine that Ford has manufactured since 2003. It is a diesel engine that Ford most often uses in large vehicles such as 3/4-ton and 1-ton pickups. The function of the fuel injectors is to deliver fuel in a precise timing and quantity. You can replace the fuel injectors on the Ford 6.0 diesel engine without removing the fuel rail, unlike most gasoline engines.

Instructions

1

Remove the valve covers with a socket wrench and detach the electrical connectors from the fuel injectors. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the crankcase-to-head tube assembly and remove the assembly from the crankcase.

2

Disconnect the oil rail from the engine. Push the electrical connector for the fuel injector out of the rocker arm carrier with a small pry tool.

3

Plug the oil drain holes next to the glow plugs with clean cloth. Disconnect the retaining bolt for the fuel injectors with a socket wrench and release the hold-down clamp.

4

Pry the fuel injectors from the engine with a Snap-On SDMT440 Torx tool so that you dont damage the fuel injectors. Discard the O-rings and copper washer on the fuel injector. Pull the cloth from the oil drain holes.

5

Mount new O-rings and copper washers to the fuel injectors. Coat the fuel injector assembly with clean engine oil and install the fuel injector. Attach the hold-down clamp for to the fuel injector and torque the mounting bolts to 24 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench.

6

Place the electrical connector for the fuel injector electrical into the rocker carrier. Lubricate the top O-rings on the fuel injector with engine oil.

7

Install the oil rail into the fuel injectors so that the mounting feet of the oil rail are flush with their mounting surface on the engine. Install three guide bolts to hold the oil rail in place.

8

Install six of the nine mounting bolts for the oil rail. Replace the three guide bolts with the three remaining mounting bolts. Tighten all nine mounting bolts to 10 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench.

9

Connect the crankcase-to-head tube assembly and tighten the mounting bolts to 60 ft. lbs. with a torque wrench. Attach the electrical connector to the fuel injector and install the valve covers.

Many motorists who desire improved fuel economy, more power and a smoother drive will opt for an automobile with a continuously variable transmission (CVT) clutch rather than a traditional automatic transmission. In theory, this transmission uses a pulley and belt system to provide the driver with an unlimited number of gears. If your car has a CVT, you can adjust the CVT to improve your vehicles fuel economy and your driving experience even further.

Instructions

1

Find the CVT clutch under the hood of your car. The clutch is in different places in different models, but you can find it near your engine. The clutch contains two large steel circles connected with a rubber belt. Lightly sand the CVT clutch with fine sand paper. This reduces wear and tear of the clutch and improves the surface grip of the belt. Use brake cleaner to clean the remaining part of the clutch and wipe it dry with a rag.

2

Increase the variator roller weight on the clutch. Use your wrench to twist the roller weights onto the bolts visible on the wheel of the clutch. A higher weight increases the speed for each position of the belt. The converse is true for a lower weight.

3

Adjust the torque of the CVT clutch. You can tighten or loosen the belt that connects to the hydraulics to change the torque. Use a wrench to slowly tighten or loosen the screws around the belt. You can find these screws around the center of the wheel. Tightening the screws will increase tension and torque, which will provide more power. Loosening the belt will reduce torque, providing a smoother driving experience.

The Sonoma compact pickup truck was introduced by General Motors to the North American market in 1982. Sonoma pickups were known for their durable and reliable engines, but they still needed to be serviced from time to time. One of the problems the Sonoma engine could face was a blown head gasket.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable. Drain the engine coolant. Remove the engine cooling fan assembly. Remove the power steering pump mounting bracket. Remove the power steering pump mounting bracket stud from the cylinder head.

2

Remove the lower intake manifold. Remove the exhaust manifold. Remove the spark plug wire harness and the spark plug wire support. Remove the ground wire bolt and the ground wire from the rear of the cylinder head. Make sure you secure the ground wire out of the way.

3

Remove the bolt holding the fuel pipe bracket to the rear of the cylinder head. Now you have access to the cylinder head gasket. Remove the cylinder head and gasket. Clean the engine block and the cylinder head sealing surfaces. Clean the cylinder head bolts and the engine block bolt holes.

4

Install the new cylinder head gasket. To re-install all parts follow the same procedure in reverse.

You will need to remove the fuel pump cover if you are cleaning the fuel pump, the fuel pump filter or the fuel tank strainer on your vehicle. These parts are cleaned when you are troubleshooting a vehicle that is experiencing inadequate fuel pressure or a fuel leak. Not all vehicles have a fuel pump cover, but if yours does, removing the cover is a fairly straightforward job requiring a few basic tools.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative (black) cable from the battery.

2

Raise the vehicle with a car jack to allow you easy access underneath.

3

Locate the fuel pump cover on the bottom side of fuel tank, under the vehicle.

4

Remove the bolt from the strap holding down the fuel cover, using a 13 mm wrench. The bolt is usually located near the wheel well.

5

Pull the fuel cover from the fuel tank. It will come off easily once the strap is removed.

Toyota introduced the Highlander, one of the first midsize crossover SUVs, in 2001 and redesigned it for the 2008 model year, giving it a slightly larger body and a more powerful V-6 engine. The 2008 Toyota Highlander came in several front-wheel- and all-wheel-drive trims. With the exception of the camber on the rear end, all trims shared the same alignment specs.

Caster

The caster angle of a wheel is basically the slope of an imaginary line drawn through the upper and lower pivot joints of the wheel when viewed from the side, with zero being a vertical line straight up from the ground and through the center of the wheel. If the top of the slope crosses to the rear of the vertical line, then it has a positive caster. If the top of the slope passes to the front of the vertical line, then the car has a negative caster. For the front end of the 2008 Toyota Highlander, the ideal caster angle is +2.62 degrees, but it can range by 0.75 degrees in either direction, with a cross tolerance of 0.75 degrees. The caster is not adjustable on the rear end.

Camber

The camber of a wheel measures the angle the wheel tilts when viewed from the front of the car. Wheels that tilt out at the top have a positive camber. Wheels that tilt in at the top have a negative camber. The ideal camber on the front end of the 2008 Toyota Highlander is -0.63 degrees but it can range by 0.75 degrees in either direction, with a cross tolerance of 0.75 degrees. The ideal camber for the rear end of front-wheel-drive trims is -1.0, but it can range by 0.75 degrees in either direction. The ideal camber on the rear end of all-wheel-drive trims is -0.6, but it can range by 0.75 in either direction.

Toe-in

The toe of a wheel ers to its alignment in relation to the centerline of the car. If the front of the wheel is angled slightly inward toward the centerline, then it is toed-in. If it angles out away from the centerline of the car, then it is toed-out. Most vehicles are designed for the wheels to have a slight toe-in, and this measurement is given in positive degrees. The ideal toe-in for the front end of the 2008 Toyota Highlander is +0.07 degrees, but it can range by 0.16 degrees in either direction. The ideal setting for the toe-in on the rear end is +0.24 degrees, but it can range by 0.16 degrees in either direction.

Adding a custom exhaust to your car is a good way to gain horsepower and a more aggressive tone to the exhaust at the same time. You could go out and buy a bolt-on system for your Altima, but if you want to truly customize, youll have to step up and have an exhaust built for you. First, though, youll want to find out what size your Altimas exhaust tubing is. That way you have a baseline to use as you determine how much you want to go up.

Instructions

1

Lift the Altima using the jack and place it on jack stands at all four corners. Make sure there is enough room for you to crawl underneath the car.

2

Locate the section of exhaust tubing that you want to measure. Open the calipers and place them over a straight section of exhaust tubing. Then tighten down the caliper until it contacts the exhaust all the way around.

3

Read the dial or digital gauge on your caliper to find out the approximate diameter. Exhaust tubing sells in average sizes: 2.25 inches, 2.5 inches, 2.75 inches, and so on; there are no odd sizes. Round the number on your caliper down to the next quarter size down, and thats your exhaust tubing diameter.

When your engine produces hot coolant, it flows through and heats up the core. The core then heats the air for your vehicle. When this part needs replacement, information and instructions on doing so can be beneficial to vehicle owners.

Remove

The top part of the dash and its lower panel have to be removed to access the heater core. The plastic box over the heater core will need to be removed as well.

Replace

A screwed on clamp made of steel holds the heater core in place. After removing the screws and the clamp, gently pull the heater core out, as it will contain some water. Covering your vehicles carpet with some type of sheeting is recommended.

Time Frame

The location of a heater core varies by vehicle type. The heater core has a location thats difficult to access on some vehicles. The time it takes to replace a heater can go well above six hours.

The Volvo D12 is a diesel engine found in trucks and SUVs. If you are having trouble with your D12, there are a couple of things you can do before you take it to a diesel repair shop. Most of the common issues reside with the fuel, starter and leaks in the system. You can diagnose the problem with non-invasive repair and get your D12 back up and running with little hassle.

Instructions

1

Turn the key to the ignition in the truck or SUV that your D12 is installed on. Look at the gas gauge to make sure that you have enough diesel in the tank to get your engine started. Fill the gas tank with enough fuel to start the engine.

2

Replace old fuel after a seasonal change. You cant use winter diesel in the summer and vice versa. Winter diesel can have condensation in it, which causes misfires to the engine.

3

Siphon out your old diesel to replace it with fresh fuel. Insert one end of a siphon hose to your gas tank. Insert the other end of the hose to an empty container. Pump the siphon hose until all of the gas is out of the tank. Fill the tank with the proper gas.

4

Jack up the front of the truck and climb underneath the engine. Have a friend turn the ignition in the truck. Listen to the small black box on the right side of the engine. This is the starter. If you hear any clicking from the starter, have a technician replace it.

5

Look for leaks around the D12. If you notice any leaks, you should have a mechanic take a look at your engine. Mechanics have special devices for diagnostic tests.

Breaker point distributors were standard equipment on most vehicles prior to the 1970s. The point distributor has a cam-type lobe that opens and closes the breaker points. When the points close, primary voltage is sent to a coil, and the coil sends high voltage to ignite the fuel charge via the spark plug. This sequence is timed for each cylinder as the engine rotates. The distributor cap must be removed to adjust the point gap on most distributors. GM trucks have a small door molded into the cap that provides access to adjust the points while the engine is running.

Instructions

Adjust the Points With a Feeler Gauge

1

Pull the keys from the ignition and pop the hood of the truck. Locate the distributor cap and follow the center ignition wire from the distributor cap to the coil and remove this wire. Most coils mount on top of the engine or the top side of the firewall.

2




Unsnap the clips or remove the screws that hold the distributor cap in place and lift it off the distributor.

3

Remove the rotor button from the top of the distributor shaft. Some rotors are attached with screws, and others just seat over the shaft into a groove to keep the rotor properly aligned.

4

Turn the distributor shaft by rotating the fan blade by hand until the high spot of the distributor lobe opens the contact points or is under the fiber bridge. Turning the fan may require that slight pressure be applied to the fan belt in the direction that the fan is turned.

5

Loosen, but do not remove, the screw that allows the breaker points to move in or away from the distributor shaft.

6

Place a .019-inch feeler gauge flat between the contact points and move the points in or out until the feeler gauge just fits between the contacts. Once adjusted, tighten the hold-down screw. Recheck the point gap, after the screw is tightened, to ensure that the feeler gauge retains the proper fit. If the gap is not right, repeat the adjustment.

7

Insert the keys into the ignition and turn the engine over while an assistant checks to see that the breaker points open and close properly as the distributor shaft rotates.

8

Install the rotor button on the distributor shaft. Look under the rotor button. Some rotors have a square and a round peg that must be inserted in their respective locations. Other rotors just slide into a groove.

9

Replace the distributor cap and coil wire.

Adjust Points With a Dwell Meter

10

Connect the positive lead of a dwell meter to the primary coil wire that comes out of the distributor. Ground the negative lead.

11

Crank the engine over when dwelling the points and observe the gauge reading.

12

Adjust the points contact gap, when dwelling the points, to change the dwell reading. Refer to a service manual for your trucks make, model and year to get the correct number for dwelling the points. Use the same method to adjust the points as in Section 1 but without the feeler gauge.

A newly rebuilt engine is often an extensive, time consuming project. To make sure your vehicle operates to its maximum capacity, you cannot fail to treat the new engine with care. Making sure all connections are secure and functioning is crucial in the early health of the rebuilt motor. Failing to treat the engine with proper care during the first few months of use will cause damage and may lead to yet another engine to be installed quicker than you might think.

Instructions

1

Inspect the engine compartment one final time before starting the vehicle. You should look for loose hose connections as well as loose electrical connections. Search for any tools or bolts left under the hood as well. Check all fluid levels once more to ensure the newly rebuilt motor does not become damaged upon its first use.

2

Ask your assistant to ignite the engine and hold down the accelerator so it is between 1,200 to 1,500 rounds per minute (rpm) for the first 20 minutes. Watch for possible leaks around the motor and under the car. Look for any other potential problems around the engine and any of its adjoining systems as well. This includes the engine oil pan and coolant and fuel hoses.

3

Check the motor belts to ensure they are both tight and fully operational. The belts should be snug and not loose from their wheels. Allow the engine to run for three minutes if their is unnatural noise coming from it in order to let oil reach and circulate throughout the engine. Have your assistant watch the oil pressure gauge. If the noise persists, shut the engine down and ensure the oil pump is functioning correctly.

4

Allow the engine to run at regular idle speed following the first 20 minutes of testing. After the oil has circulated and noises have ended, set the engine timing if possible. Do this by shutting down the engine and loosening the distributor enough to rotate it manually. Connect a timing light tool as directed by the manufacturers instructions. Follow the steps on the tune-up label found in the engine section of the vehicles service manual to set the timing.

5

Test the vehicle on a road that is free from heavy traffic. Adjust your speed up to 40 miles per hour (mph) and release the accelerator. Allow the vehicle to coast down to around 15 mph and then again accelerate to 40 mph. Repeat this multiple times to assist the new piston rings in sealing properly. Check the engine for leaks or disconnections again after the vehicle is stopped.

Yamaha Motor Corporation manufactures, in addition to its recreational vehicles and outboard motors, a line of industrial and commercial generators. In fact, in 2011 alone, Yamaha offered almost 20 different generator models on its website. Ranging from 1,000 to 12,000 watts, engineering differences exist between different models and years. Despite this, minor repair tips remain consistent across all models, and Yamaha offers similar troubleshooting advice in all generator owners manuals to help owners handle minor repairs outside of the shop.

Instructions

Quick Fixes

1

Check the engine stop switch, located on the far left side of the generators front control box, if the engine stalls, misfires, or wont start. If it is set to off, turn it on. Otherwise, the engine cannot start.

2

Read the fuel gauge located on the top of the generator. If the fuel tank is empty, ill with unleaded gasoline and restart the motor.

3

Check the engine oil levels in the oil tank, located on the front of the generator underneath the control box. Unscrew the filler cap and peer inside. Engine oil levels should reach the upper level of the oil filler hole. If not, ill with oil until this level. The recommended oil for a specific generator is listed in the "Engine Oil" section of the owners manual.

4

Tighten the cylinder head nuts, located on the front of the generators engine, using a standard wrench.

5

Operate the recoil starter. If the engine still stalls or wont start, move on to the next section.

Spark Plugs

6

Use the recoil starter. If the engine does not even turn over, there may be something wrong with the spark plugs.

7

Remove the spark plug or plugs, located in each of the generators cylinders on the front of its engine. Do this by removing the spark plug cap and rotating each spark plug counterclockwise with a spark plug wrench until it can be lifted from the cylinder.

8

Inspect the condition of the electrode end of the plug. If it appears brittle, cracked or burnt, the spark plug should be replaced with the kind of spark plug recommended in the owners manual. The type and number of plugs varies according to model and year.

9

Measure the spark plug gap for each plug, which is the measurement of the gap between the hook at the end of the spark plug. Spark plug gap should measure the amount recommended in the "Spark Plug" section of the owners manual, which also varies according to generator model. If the gap is too wide, shorten it by pressing this hook end against a hard surface. If it is too thin, widen it using a plug gap tool to gently pull the hook end wider.

10

Reinstall the spark plug or plugs by turning them clockwise into their respective cylinder holes with a spark plug wrench and returning the plug caps.

11

Try the recoil starter once more. If the engine still wont turn over, take the generator to a Yamaha dealer for inspection.

Fuel and Fuel Cock

12

Open the fuel tank and inspect the condition of the fuel in the tank if the engine turns over but wont start or if it stalls. If the gasoline is watery or gummy, it may be contaminated. Have a Yamaha dealer or mechanic drain the gas tank and ill it with fresh unleaded gasoline.

13

Turn off both the engine and the fuel cock lever to check the fuel cock. This lever is located on the right side of the generator.

14

Unscrew and remove the fuel cock cup and gasket, also located on the right side of the generator, using a standard wrench.

15

Inspect the inside of the fuel cock cup. If it contains build-up or debris, clean it out with solvent and wipe clean with a rag.

16

Replace the gasket if it is damaged.

17

Reinstall the fuel cock cap and gasket with a wrench.

18

Use the recoil starter. If the engine continues to run improperly, take the generator to a dealer for inspection.

An engine is like lightning in a bottle, controlled chaos at its best. In addition to expanding gases, the engines combustion events produce a number of undesirable side effects. Exploding gasoline creates a shockwave that we experience as sound, but which the engine experiences as minute vibrations that work their way down through the pistons, rods and crankshaft. When combined with combustion events that are slightly out of sync, these vibrations can cause the crankshaft to resonate, deform and snap. The harmonic balancer absorbs these vibrations using a rubber ring surrounded by another heavy metal ring. The bolt that secures it can be difficult to remove, but not if you know a few tricks before going in.

Instructions

1

Raise the front of the car using a floor jack and secure it with a couple of jack stands. Start the engine and warm it to its highest operating temperature, or until the cooling fans kick on. Turn the engine off. Youll need to move fairly quickly from here on out, so make sure that you plan ahead and have the appropriate tools on hand. Have the appropriately-sized sockets fitted to several ratchets beforehand so you dont have to waste time hunting for the correct-size sockets.

2

Remove all of the belts that connect the crankshaft pulley to the engine accessories. If you have an older V-belt setup, loosen the alternator bolts, rotate the alternator downward and pull the belts off. If you have a serpentine belt, fit a socket or wrench to the belt tensioner and apply clockwise pressure to loosen the belt. You dont necessarily need to remove it, but it might make the job easier.

3

Fit the breaker bar over the end of your 1/2-inch drive ratchet, which youve already fitted with a three-inch extension and a socket sized to the balancer bolt. Hold a spray-can of keyboard dust remover upside down, and put the tip of the spray-tube right over the bolt head. Press the trigger on the can and spray the bolt head for about 20 seconds. The propellant in the can will act as a rigerant, causing the bolt to frost over. As the bolt cools, its metal will contract and will pull away from the hot crankshaft.

4

Fit the socket, ratchet and breaker bar to the bolt-head and give it a sharp yank. If the bolt does not come loose or the crankshaft turns, then quickly lift the breaker bar up to the bottom of the frame and secure it there with some duct tape. Make sure its not sitting on anything that will break or bend.

5

Crawl out from under the car and have an assistant turn the ignition key to bump the starter. Do not start the car, and do not lie under the car while your assistant bumps the starter. If the ratchet comes loose or something goes wrong, you could be seriously injured. If all goes according to plan, the ratchet will brace the bolt while the starter turns the crankshaft around it.

The Jeep CJ is a series of commercial vehicles that resemble the Willys military Jeep from World War II. American Motors Corporation manufactured the Jeep CJ7 from 1976 to 1986. These vehicles have several different engines, with a four-cylinder 2.5-liter engine being one of the most common. The oil pump for a Jeep CJ7 is under the engine, so you must access it from below the vehicle.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the batterys negative terminal with a socket wrench to prevent anyone from starting the engine. Raise the vehicle with a jack and support it on jack stands.

2

Place a drain pan under the oil drain on the crankcase. Remove the drain plug with a socket wrench, and allow the oil to drain into the drain pan. Replace the drain plug and store the oil.

3

Disconnect the exhaust pipe from the manifold with a socket wrench. Remove the starter.

4

Remove the access plate for the bell housing with a socket wrench. Disconnect the mounting bolts for the oil pan and remove the oil pan.

5

Remove the retaining screws for the oil pump with a socket wrench. Detach the oil pump and its gasket from the engine.

6

Clean the mounting surfaces for the oil pump with a shop rag. Mount the new oil pump gasket and install the new oil pump. Fasten the retaining screws for the oil pump.

7

Install the oil pan and the access plate for the bell housing. Connect the starter and attach the exhaust pipe to the manifold.

8

Lower the vehicle and replace the oil in the engine. Connect the cable to the negative battery cable with a socket wrench.

When a manufacturer recall is issued for a particular vehicle, the manufacturer provides the parts and labor necessary for the repair free of charge. After this repair is made, the dealership logs the vehicle identification number and stores this information in a computerized database. This information is kept on file in order to keep track of which vehicles have been repaired. In order to obtain this information, the VIN is needed.

Instructions

1

Locate and record the VIN for the vehicle in question. The VIN is displayed underneath the windshield on a small plaque in the lower-left (drivers side) corner.

2

Contact a new car dealership in your area by telephone that sells that particular make and model of vehicle. Ask to speak to a service adviser in the service department.

3

Tell the service adviser that you are looking for recall information on a particular vehicle. Read them the VIN when prompted. They will look up the repair information in their computer system and notify you if the vehicle has been repaired according to the recall repair instructions.

Manufactured from 1967 to 1998, the 350 c.i.d. engine became Chevrolets main eight cylinder small-block after it retired the earlier 283 and 327 engines. Long respected for its performance, reliability and interchangeability, the Chevy 350 is very common and easily identified.

General

One of the most popular Chevrolet engines ever produced, the 350 was used in everything from Corvettes to school buses. Standard Chevy identification techniques may be used to identify the engine, such as the orange paint and GM markings, but only the casting number gives exact identification.

Block Identification

To identify positively a Chevrolet 350 or any Chevrolet small-block, the engine casting number must be located and checked against a code chart. Chevrolet small-block casting numbers are located on the passenger side of the engine block on a machined pad in front of the cylinder head. The numbers often are hidden by the alternator.

Casting Codes

The casting numbers are a combination of numbers and letters, eight digits long. They give manufacture date and location in the pix, and the suffix, a series of three letters, gives the engine specifics. For example, casting code V0101CML reveals the suffix as CML. When matched to a chart, the code will reveal that the engine was a 350 built for a 1975 Camaro with 155 horsepower.

Exhaust wrap, sometimes called header wrap, is lighter, more stylish and probably more efficient than heat shields. It is used mostly on motorcycles but can also be used on cars. Headers are the exhaust pipes closest to the exhaust ports on a gasoline engine. They get hot enough to ignite paper, so motorcycle riders need some protection from that heat. Fiberglass wraps insulate more efficiently than metal shields. They might even increase your horsepower. Wrap manufacturers say that keeping all that heat in the pipes improves engine efficiency.

Instructions

1

Measure the diameter of your header or exhaust pipes with a micrometer. In most cases the diameter of your header pipes will be 1 3/8 inches to 3 inches.

2

Measure the length of all the pipes you intend to wrap. Measure with a steel measuring tape from the exhaust port to the mufflers or the point where you want to stop wrapping each pipe. In most cases, this wrap is applied to V-Twin motorcycles, which have two pipes.

3

Decide the width of the exhaust wrap you want to use. Most brands of exhaust wrap come in 1- and 2-inch widths.

4

Begin calculating the length of wrap you will need per linear foot of header or exhaust pipe at 70 inches for 1-inch wrap and 30 inches for 2-inch wrap. Those lengths are the amount of wrap you need for each foot of 1 3/8-inch header or exhaust pipe.

5

Add 6 inches of 1-inch-wide wrap for each linear foot of pipe that exceeds the diameter of 1 3/8 inch diameter pipe by 1/8 inch. For example, you will need 76 inches of wrap for each linear foot of 1 1/2-inch pipe and 82 inches for each linear foot of 1 5/8 inch diameter pipe. You will need 112 inches of 1-inch-wide wrap for each linear foot of 2 1/4-inch diameter pipes and 136 inches of 1-inch-wide wrap for each linear foot of 3-inch diameter pipes.

6

Add 3 inches of 2-inch-wide wrap for each linear foot of pipe that exceeds the diameter of 1 3/8-inch diameter pipe by 1/8 inch. For example, you will need 33 inches of 2-inch wrap for each linear foot of 1 1/2-inch diameter header pipe and 45 inches of 2-inch wrap for each linear foot of 2-inch diameter header pipe.

Changing the spark plugs in your Subaru Outback can greatly improve the fuel economy, the drivability and the overall engine performance. The 1998 Outback is based on the Imprezza platform and was offered with the 2.2-liter H4 engine. The spark plugs are arranged in a 2x2 pattern, or two on each side of the engine. Replace the spark plugs at the intervals recommended in the owners manual, unless you experience a spark plug failure or some other problem with them.

Instructions

1

Locate the battery in the engine compartment of your Outback, then disconnect the negative battery cable end (after loosening the clamp bolt of the cable), using a wrench. Isolate the cable end from the battery to avoid accidentally energizing the ignition system while you are working.

2

Pick one spark plug wire located on the top of the engine and follow it down to the spark plug. Grasp the plug wire boot and while twisting it back and forth, pull it off the plug. Do not pull on the wire itself, or you will risk damaging it beyond repair. Lay the wire aside.

3

Place a spark plug socket over the plug and attach a ratchet to it. Rotate the spark plug counterclockwise until it is free of the cylinder head, then remove it from the engine compartment.

4

Remove the new spark plug from the box, and using a feeler gauge, verify that the plug gap is set to between .039 to .043 by sliding the appropriate blade from the feeler gauge between the electrode and the base of the spark plug. If the plug gap is outside the specified range, adjust it by tapping it closed or open, as needed.

5

Install the new spark plug into the hole in the cylinder head and tighten it by turning it clockwise with the spark plug socket and ratchet until it is snug. Turn it 1/4-turn more, then remove the socket and ratchet.

6

Put a small amount of dielectric grease on the inside of the spark plug wire boot. The grease will repel water, ensuring a good connection, and it will allow the boot to come off the plug easier next time you change the plugs.

7

Move to the next cylinder and repeat the process until you have changed all four plugs. Do not remove more than one plug wire at any time during the process, to avoid mixing up the wires and scrabbling the firing order.

8

Install the negative battery cable end on the battery and tighten the clamp bolt on the cable end. Start the engine to verify that the engine runs as intended.

Whenever you decide to take on the often daunting task of rebuilding any engine, whether its a large, complex type of engine or a lawn mower, the most important part of the undertaking is a thorough knowledge of engines in general and how they function. This is especially true when the engine being rebuilt is the Ford 4.6, or the F6AE. When these engines were built, they were built in two locations and with two specification settings. The fact that the 4.6-liter engine has been used in a number of Ford vehicles is another factor in the need for a thorough knowledge of the specific engine being rebuilt and the specifications of each different component of the engine itself.

Romeo v. Windsor

The two plants that manufacture the Ford 4.6L engine are erred to as the Romeo and the Windsor plants, because of their geographic location. The difference between the two manufacturing facilities makes all of the difference for rebuilding the engine, because the two plants built different models, which also included manufacturing two forms of the same engine. Beyond that, the plants also manufactured two types of 4.6 engine, erred to as PI and NPI, or Power Improved and Not Power Improved. These two headings directly affected the manner in which the components of the engine were built and to what specifications they were adhered. You must make sure you distinguish the difference before you begin to rebuild so you can order the right parts.

Rings and Gaskets

Because of the specifications to which the engines have been built, you must take into consideration the fact that the gaskets and the rings that are used within the engine to create sealed components come in different sizes and are made of different materials. This means that a specific O-ring or piston ring cannot be purchased for the engine unless the specific set for the engine being rebuilt has been established.

Model Type vs. Model Year

Because of manufacturing demands and supply-chain requests, the engine model that was built for a specific make and model may have changed from one year to the next, meaning that just because a 1999 model was built with a Romeo PI 4.6 doesnt necessarily mean that the year 2000 model was even manufactured in the same plant. The next model year could be altered from a Romeo PI 4.6 to a Windsor NPI 4.6, depending on manufacturing needs. This should always be the first determination you make when deciding to rebuild a 4.6 engine.

Tightening bolts to the proper torque is extremely important. Bolts that are not tightened enough can fail to provide the necessary support and stability, and bolts that are tightened too much can actually snap unexpectedly, particularly when you apply additional pressure. There are several factors to consider when calculating bolt torque specs, including the grade, size and purpose of the bolt, and the fastener that is catching it. If a bolt should be tightened to 2,000 inch-pounds of torque, but the fastener can only withstand 1,000 inch-pounds, there is a good chance the fastener will bend or break as the bolt is tightened.

Types of Stainless Steel

The two main types of steel used in stainless steel bolts are 18-8 stainless steel and 316 stainless steel. Stainless steel given an 18-8 designation consists of approximately 18 percent chromium and 8 percent nickel. The remainder of the steel comprises several other elements and compounds, including manganese, phosphorus, sulfur, silicon and chromium. Carbon is held to a maximum of 0.08 percent in both basic types of stainless steel. The term 18-8 applies to several similar grades of steel, including types 302, 303, 304, 305 and 384. These types of stainless steel represent the "basic alloy," and there is little difference between them in terms of strength or resistance to corrosion. Type 316 stainless steel is similar to 18-8 stainless steel except that it is more resistant to corrosion because there are higher levels of molybdenum in it. Type 316 stainless steel is often used in marine situations because it is particularly more resistant to corrosion caused by salt water.

Size, Thread Count and Other Factors

In addition to the grade of stainless steel the bolt is composed of, several other factors, such as the length of the bolt, the bolts thread count, the job that the bolt is being used for, the fastener the bolt is being applied to, any plating the bolt has been coated in and whether or not the bolt is clean, dry or lubricated can affect the the amount of torque that should be applied to a bolt. For instance, a 5/16 bolt with 24 threads per inch requires more torque than a 1/4 inch bolt with 28 threads per inch. The Rask Cycle website recommends lubricating motorcycle bolts with motor oil to reduce the torque by 15 percent to 25; to reduce torque by 50 percent, use a Teflon dry film or a Cetyl alcohol dry wax.

Bolt Torque Specs

Taking the above factors into consideration, the following specs provide a good ball-park range for the perred fastening torque of several bolts. The torque is given in inch-pounds and is intended for standard bolts (without plating) that are dry at the time of tightening.

You should tighten bolts that are 1/4 of an inch long and made of 18-8 stainless should to 75.2 inch-pounds if they have 20 threads per inch and to 94 inch-pounds if they have 28 threads per inch. Tighten bolts of the same size and thread count that are made of 316 stainless steel to 78.8 inch-pounds and 99.0 inch-pounds, respectively.

Tighten bolts that are 3/4 of an inch long and made of 18-8 stainless steel to 1,530 inch-pounds if they have 10 threads per inch and to 1,490 inch-pounds if they have 16 threads per inch. With bolts of the same size and thread count that are made of 316 stainless steel, tighten to 1,582 inch-pounds and 1,588 inch-pounds, respectively.

Tighten one inch long bolts that are made of 18-8 stainless steel to 3,440 inch-pounds if they have 8 threads per inch and to 3,110 inch-pounds if they have 14 threads per inch. Bolts of the same size and thread count that are made of 316 stainless steel should be tightened to 3,595 inch-pounds and 3,250 inch-pounds, respectively.

The Lumina was manufactured by Chevrolet and first introduced on the North American market in 1990. It featured three different body types. Chevrolet Luminas engines were equipped with multiport fuel injection system that required a special intake manifold. The intake manifold is designed to distribute the air fuel mixture in the engine. As the fluids pass constantly through the intake manifold, the gaskets get corroded and require to be replaced.

Instructions

Removal

1

Disconnect the batterys negative (ground) cable to prevent injury. Disconnect the vacuum hose connection from the throttle body air inlet duct. Disconnect the wiring harness connection from the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor in the throttle body air inlet duct. Remove the throttle body air inlet duct. Drain the engine coolant from the cooling system.

2

Remove the accelerator control and cruise control cables with bracket from the throttle body. Remove the wiring harness from the retainer. Disconnect the throttle position (TP) sensor and idle air control (IAC) valve wiring harness connectors from the throttle body. Disconnect the front spark plug wires.

3

Disconnect the wiring harness attachment clips of camshaft position sensor (CMP). Remove the nut from the coolant pipe to the throttle body. Disconnect the thermostat bypass pipe coolant hoses from the throttle body. Remove the engine mount struts. Disconnect the right spark plug wire retaining clips. Remove the spark plug wires at the coil pack.

4

Remove the ignition coil bracket with the coils, the purge solenoid, the vacuum canister solenoid, the vacuum lines, and the electrical connections. Disconnect the vacuum hose at the manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor. Remove the Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) sensor and the bracket. Disconnect the emission control vacuum harness. Disconnect the vacuum booster hose, automatic transaxle vacuum modulator hose, heather and air conditioning vacuum source hose and fuel pressure hose from the intake manifold.

5

Remove the drive belt. Remove the front generator brace. Remove the rear generator brace. Remove the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve. Remove the right-hand intake manifold bolts and studs. Remove the left-hand upper intake manifold bolts. Remove the intake manifold. Remove the intake manifold gasket.

Installation

6

Install the throttle body. Lay the intake manifold gasket on the cylinder block. Position the intake manifold on the new gasket. Loosely tighten the left hand intake manifold bolts, the right hand intake manifold bolts and the studs. Then, tighten the intake manifold bolts and studs 18 foot-pounds of torque.

7

Install the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve. Install the rear generator brace and the front generator brace. Connect the vacuum hose connections to the intake manifold. Those connections include the vacuum booster hose, automatic transaxle vacuum modulator hose, heather and air conditioning vacuum source hose and the fuel regulator hose.

8

Plug in the emission control vacuum harness. Install the manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor and bracket. Connect the vacuum hose at the manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor and the intake manifold. Install the ignition coil bracket with the coils, the purge solenoid, the vacuum canister solenoid, and the spark plug wire retainers. Connect the plug wires to the ignition module. Connect the vacuum lines, and the electrical connections. Return the engine to the proper position.

9

Install the engine mount struts. Connect the thermostat bypass pipe and the coolant hoses to the throttle body. Connect the camshaft position (CMP) sensor wiring harness, spark plug wire harness and engine wiring harness. Install the throttle position (TP) sensor and idle air control (IAC) valve.

10

Install the accelerator control and cruise control cables with bracket to the throttle body. Connect the wiring harness to the retainer. Fill the cooling system with engine coolant. Install the throttle body air inlet duct. Connect the wiring harness connection to the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor in the throttle body air inlet duct and then connect the vacuum hose connection to the throttle body air inlet duct. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

Conveyors are utilized in industrial and manufacturing capacities to perform the movement of products from one location to another. Using belt and gravity systems, conveyors are an integral part of the operations of certain companies . The conveyor motor, which creates the movement necessary for the conveyor to operate correctly, is made of several different components, each with its own function.

Speed Drives

Speed drives perform an important function in the operation of the conveyor motor and the conveyor belt as a whole. Speed drives control the operation and speed of the conveyor. Due to the nature of the conveyor, such drives are required to have a consistent torque level throughout the operation of the machine. A consistent torque level allows for the conveyor to handle the particular load being transported. Speed, which is also controlled by the driver, varies according to the industry the conveyor is being used in, as well as in maintenance, adjustment or set-up situations. The speed driver allows for the conveyor speed to be adjusted and theore provide better control over the processes. Many speed drives will control the operating speed so that it does not drop below 5 percent of the optimal speed when the conveyor is loaded down.

Starter

The motor starter for a conveyor controls the circuitry of the conveyor. The starter allows for the necessary electrical currents to be fed into the motor for the operation of the conveyor. Rockwell Automation notes that traditional conveyor systems break down the starter and control components for each individual function of the conveyor system. This "results in a mass of complex control and power wiring out to the individual motors and other field components." While not all systems will have such complex set-ups for their starters, the possible need for multiple motors, and theore multiple starters, is a reality in the larger industries. In this case, a conveyor may be quite long and operate on different speeds in each section.

Soft-Start and Soft-Stop Controls

Soft-start and soft-stop controls are in charge of the starting and stopping of the conveyor. A soft-start control is defined as a means for the motors power to slowly increase from its starting torque to full power without damaging the system or the motor. Similarly, soft-stop also helps to limit any damage to the motor or conveyor system through a gradual drop in the power.

Changing the resistor on the heater blower motor in your Silverado may be necessary if the blower will only run on one speed. When the resistor fails it allows full power to flow from the switch. This results in the fan running either on high speed or not at all, but none of the speeds in-between. Newer Chevy models do not use a traditional resistor; instead they use a controller, but the function is the same.

Instructions

1

Open the passengers side door of your truck and locate the sound insulator on the firewall just above the passenger floorboard. Pull the insulator back to expose the blower motor and HVAC duct under the dash.

2

Locate the controller on the face of the blower motor housing; identifying it by the wiring harness connection running from it to the blower motor. Disconnect the wiring harness connector from the controller and lay it aside.

3

Locate the two retaining bolts on the face of the controller and remove them with a socket and ratchet. Pull the controller off the blower and discard it.

4

Position the new controller on the face of the blower motor, insert the retaining bolts and tighten them with a socket and ratchet. Do not over tighten them or damage may occur to the HVAC housing.

5

Connect the wiring harness connector to the controller, snapping it into place. Push the sound insulator back in place and test the repair by running the fan through all the speeds, verifying it runs in all of them.

The corrosive effect of accumulated moisture, vibration and impact damage from road debris makes eventual muffler and exhaust pipe replacement a foregone conclusion. Depending on the model year and the exhaust configuration of your Chrysler 300---dual or single tail pipes---replacing the exhaust pipe involves disconnecting the exhaust pipe from the catalytic converter, loosening the hanger brackets that support the exhaust system and removing the mufflers and exhaust pipes from under the vehicle.

Instructions

Exhaust Pipe Replacement

1

Set the emergency brake and chock the rear wheels with wood blocks. Then, jack the car up on a hard, level surface making certain that the lifting point is a load bearing part of the car chassis and that the vehicle is high enough off the ground to allow easy access to the exhaust system. Position jack stands under the appropriate chassis contact points and ratchet them up to just touching. Now, slowly lower the car onto the jack stands.

2

Position the jack under the muffler and raise the jack to support the muffler before releasing the exhaust pipe from the chassis hangers. Double-check that you have purchased the correct replacement exhaust for your Chrysler 300 model. The typical configuration will have a catalytic converter in the exhaust line on each side of the block feeding by way of a cross-over pipe into a single muffler.

3

Disconnect the oxygen sensors from the exhaust pipe ports near the catalytic converters. Unscrew the two nuts on each U-bolt connecting the exhaust pipes to the back of each catalytic converter. The catalytic converter is the cigar-shaped emissions control device installed in the exhaust system, closest to the engine. Unless you have experienced a loss of power, can smell a sulfur odor or feel heat radiating from the car floor, your catalytic converters are probably okay.

4

Inspect the two mufflers for rust. If the exhaust pipes are rusted badly, the mufflers are ready to be changed, as well. With the car jack positioned under and against the larger muffler, the one closest to the motor, disconnect the exhaust pipe brackets from the support hangers and lower the entire assembly to the ground. To loosen rusted nuts and bolts, apply liberal amounts of WD-40. Give the penetrating oil a few minutes to soak in, then remove the nuts. If the pipes are rusted into the catalytic converters, rap them with a hammer to break the rust loose, but make sure that you are wearing safety glasses when you do this.

5

Assemble the new mufflers and exhaust pipes, on the ground, using the four new U-bolts provided to secure the pipes in each muffler port. Use the old assembly as a guide and compare them side by side for proper length. If you purchased an original equipment manufacturer replacement, the new assembly should fit properly. Check the hangers and hard rubber noise dampers for wear, and replace if necessary.

6

Position the new unit under the car and use the jack to raise it into position. Then, reattach the exhaust pipe brackets to the hangers and reconnect the exhaust pipes to the catalytic converter with two new U-bolts. Dont forget to tighten all the connections and reattach the oxygen sensors. When youve done this, jack up the car, remove the jack stands and slowly lower the car to the ground.