So Fix it

The Chrysler Pacifica is among the leading crossover models in its class. Just like all other vehicles, it requires maintenance to keep it running properly. One part of regular maintenance is changing headlamps. In order to replace a headlamp or the entire headlamp assembly, you will need to know how to remove them first.

Instructions

1

Open the hood of the vehicle, and disconnect the negative battery cable using a crescent wrench.

2

Locate and remove the two screws that secure the headlamp assembly in place. The screws are located on top of the assembly. Remove the screws using a flat-head screwdriver.

3

Remove the headlamp assembly from the vehicle by pulling it straight out. This should unclip it from the lower attachment clip.

4

Take off the rubber boot seal by pulling it straight off. If you are changing the headlamp, rotate the bulb counterclockwise to disengage it, and then pull it out of the headlamp assembly. If you are replacing the headlamp assembly/housing, remove all of the bulbs from the assembly and replace it with a new one.

Nissan is a popular car brand in the United States. Nissans are manufactured in both four- and six-cylinder models. Replacing the ignition coils on a four-cylinder is the same as a six-cylinder, just with fewer steps. Although diving into your cars engine may sound a bit daunting, replacing the ignition coils on your Nissan engine is not quite as complicated as it may seem.

Instructions

1

Lift the hood of your Nissan and prop it open. Identify the cylinders on the rear side of the engine. These are cylinders 1, 3 and 5. This is where you will find the coil harnesses.

2

Notice the green tabs on the grey coil harnesses.

3

Push down on the inside of the harness to release it from the coil. This may take a good bit of pressure.

4

Place the harnesses, in the order removed, on the ground so that you can keep track of which cylinder each belongs to.

5

Remove the 10 mm bolt that locks each of the three coils to the engine.

6

Remove the coils from the engine.

7

Remove the cover plate on the front of the engine by detaching the four screws that hold it in place. This will expose the coils on cylinders 2, 4 and 6.

8

Remove the coil harnesses in the same manner as the rear harnesses were removed.

9

Set the harnesses aside in order.

10

Remove the three 10 mm bolts that hold the front coils in place.

11

Slide the front engine coils out from the engine block.

12

Place the new coils inside cylinders 2, 4 and 6.

13

Tighten the coils with the three 10 mm bolts.

14

Position the harnesses over the coils.

15

Reattach the cover plate and tighten the four screws to secure it.

16

Place the new coils at the rear of the engine.

17

Attach the coils with the three 10 mm bolts and tighten.

18

Place the coil harnesses into position and attach them to the coils.

The Honda Motor Company has been making engines since 1948. The Honda D17A2 was originally produced for 2001 and later models of the Civic EX, and it is highly sought-after by car enthusiasts and tuners.

Engine Specifications

The Honda D17A2 is a 1,668 cubic centimeter, in-line, four-cylinder engine. The bore cylinder has a diameter of 75 mm and a piston shaft length of 94.4 mm.

Performance Specifications

The D17A2 is capable of producing 127 horsepower at 6,300 rpm. The torque rating of this engine is 114 foot-pounds at 4,400 rpm. The engines compression ratio is 9.9 to 1.

Other Specifications

The fuel control system on the Honda D17A2 is a single overhead camshaft that contains four valves per cylinder. The D17A2 also features a variable valve timing and lift electronic control valvetrain system, otherwise known as VTEC. Honda developed the VTEC system to improve the volumetric efficiency of their four-stroke internal combustion engines.

The Camry is a mid-size car that has been manufactured by Toyota since 1980. The 1992 Camry has one oxygen sensor, which reads the amount of oxygen in the exhaust gases and sends the information to the engines fuel delivery system. That system then adjusts the amount of air and fuel being delivered to the engine, based on the reading. A faulty oxygen sensor can cause an increase in emissions and a decrease in fuel efficiency. Replacing the oxygen sensor is a relatively easy task that requires just a few basic tools.

Instructions

Removal

1

Open the hood and locate the oxygen sensor at the base of the exhaust manifold. You will see wires coming out of the top of the oxygen sensor.

2

Apply penetrating oil to the base of the oxygen sensor where it threads into the exhaust manifold.

3

Disconnect the engine wiring harness from the wiring on the oxygen sensor. Use a flat-head screwdriver to pry the connectors apart if necessary.

4

Place the oxygen sensor socket over the top of the oxygen sensor and turn the sensor counterclockwise. If you do not have an oxygen sensor socket, use an open-end wrench. Loosen the oxygen sensor and remove it from the exhaust manifold. Dispose of the old oxygen sensor by recycling it or returning it to an auto parts store.

Installation

5

Apply a thin coat of anti-seize compound to the threaded end of the new oxygen sensor.

6

Insert the new oxygen sensor into the exhaust manifold. Turn the oxygen sensor by hand to make sure that you dont cross-thread it.

7

Tighten the oxygen sensor with the socket or open-end wrench. Be caul not to overtighten the sensor.

8

Connect the new oxygen sensor to the wiring harness.

Removing rust from hard-to-reach parts of a motor can be a time-consuming and frustrating experience if you dont have the necessary tools for the job. Its possible to buy nontoxic rust removal agents that are specifically designed to eliminate corrosive rust from nooks and crannies that are hard to reach.

Instructions

1

Remove the motor laminations the engine. The method for doing so will vary depending on the type of engine youre working on, so youll need to consult an owners manual if youre unsure how to do this.

2

Put on the protective gloves and mix the rust removal agent with water in the container if its in concentrated form. The ratio of rust remover to water will vary depending on the product youre using and how heavily the laminations are rusted. Consult the instructions on the packaging of the product youre using for confirmation.

3

Submerge the laminations in the mixed rust remover. Lightly rusted laminations will need to be left for between 10 and 30 minutes. Heavily rusted laminations could need up to 24 hours, depending on the brand of rust remover youre using.

4

Remove the laminations from the container and rinse with warm water and soap.

When cutting stainless steel tubing, you must ensure that the cut end of the stainless tubing is straight. If the cut is crooked, the end that you cut will not fit squarely into a stainless steel fitting or butt up tight to another piece of pipe for a weld joint. The tools required to mark a straight cut on the stainless steel tubing are relatively simple, readily available and inexpensive. Selecting the proper tool to cut the squarely marked tubing is vital to ensuring that the cut is straight.

Instructions

1

Stretch the tape measure along the stainless steel tubing and mark the length you need to cut with a permanent marker.

2

Place the marked length of tubing into a table-mounted vise. Slide the length mark 12 inches past the end of the vise and turn the handle of the vise clockwise to secure the tubing.

3

Fold an 8 1/2-inch by 11-inch piece of paper into a two-inch-wide strip that is 11 inches long.

4

Align one side of the folded paper with the length mark you placed on the stainless steel tubing. Wrap the paper around the tubing and pinch the ends of the paper together. When the edges of the folded paper are even, the paper line is straight.

5

Run the permanent marker around the edge of the folded paper, marking a straight line around the stainless steel tubing. Remove the paper from the tubing.

6

Attach a .032 abrasive cut-off wheel to a four-inch grinder.

7

Put on your safety glasses, face shield and leather work gloves.

8

Cut 1/4 of the circumference of the stainless steel tubing, pressing the cutting wheel slowly along the cut mark.

9

Loosen the table vise, spin the tubing 1/4 of a turn and tighten the vise. Continue cutting the tubing.

10

Replace the abrasive cut-off wheel when it wears to the cutting line, or roughly 60 percent of the cut-off wheels original diameter.

11

Complete the cutting process and set the grinder aside. Run a fine-tooth half-round file around the inside and outside of the cut to remove sharp burrs left by the cutting wheel.

The type of replacement fuel pump that a 2000 Dodge Caravan needs depends primarily on its engine. This vehicle usually has a six-cylinder, 3.0-liter or 6-cylinder 3.3-liter engine with a two-wheel drive transmission. A 2000 Dodge Caravan uses a high-pressure electric fuel pump that is part of a single module. The fuel pump module on this vehicle also includes other components such as the fuel pump reservoir, fuel gauge sending unit and fuel pressure regulator.

Instructions

1

Remove the cap for the fuel filler tube to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank. Remove the cap on the fuel pressure port located on the fuel rail. Place one end of hose C-3799-1 into a gasoline container and connect the other end to the fuel pressure port to relieve the pressure in the fuel system. Remove the hose from the fuel pressure port and replace the cap for the fuel pressure port. Drain the fuel tank.

2

Disconnect the cable to the negative terminal on the battery with a socket wrench. Support the fuel tank and loosen the bolts for the fuel tank strap. Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel tank and unplug the wiring harness for the fuel pump module.

3

Lower the fuel tank and turn the locking ring counter-clockwise with a wrench. Remove the locking ring and disconnect the fuel pump from the fuel tank.

4

Connect the new fuel pump module to the fuel tank, and replace the locking ring. Tighten the locking ring to 40 foot-lbs. with a torque wrench. Raise the fuel tank back into position. Connect the wiring harness and fuel lines for the fuel pump module. Tighten the bolts on the fuel tank strap to 250 inches-lbs. with a torque wrench.

5

Connect the cable to the negative terminal of the battery with a socket wrench, and fill the fuel tank with fuel. Start the engine and check the fuel system for leaks.

Manufactured by Nissan, the Infiniti FX45 is a mid-sized luxury crossover vehicle that was introduced in 2003. As with most vehicles, the FX45 requires a periodic wheel alignment that will help keep the vehicle steering true and help the owner avoid uneven tire wear. Professional technicians follow Nissans factory specifications to perform an alignment on the FX45.

Camber

The front wheel camber angle on a Infiniti FX45 should have a nominal value of -0.44 degrees with the maximum acceptable value of -0.12 degrees and lowest acceptable value of -1.29 degrees. The rear wheel alignment specifications are within -1.15 to -0.15 degrees, with an ideal angle being -0.45 degrees.

Caster

The caster angle should be the same both on the right and left sides on the 2003 Infinitis FX45 wheels. The nominal value is -0.44 degrees, with limits set from -1.29 to -0.12 degrees for the front wheels.

Toe

Total toe angles on the FX45 model must be +0.8 degrees with measuring range of 0.8 degrees. Toe-in specification should be set at 1.6 mm with maximum allowable difference of 1 mm.

PT Cruisers, like most cars and trucks, have timing belts that turn the camshaft. Over time, the timing belt can fail leaving the car driving poorly and the belt must be replaced.

Function

The function of a timing belt on a PT Cruiser is to turn the camshaft exactly one half the speed of the crankshaft. The camshaft must be aligned properly as it controls the intake and exhaust associated with the movement of the engine pistons.

Problems

There are two main problems associated with the timing belt. The belt can break over time, causing the car to not start or shut down if it breaks in transit. The other problem is the belt can become worn and either slip or stretch out, ruining the timing and can cause the car to run badly.

Remedies

When the PT Cruisers timing belt goes bad, it must be replaced. If the belt breaks while driving, it can cause damage to the engine and valves, meaning added expense and repairs.

A speaker that does not work correctly may not mean that the speaker itself is the problem. Within the audio system of a car there could be other components that are causing the speaker to malfunction. Every car has a head unit that controls the CD player, radio and volume. However, some car audio systems also have an amplifier as well as a crossover. Take your time and test each component to make sure they are all working properly before you blame the speaker for the problem.

Instructions

1

Turn the car and stereo off. Disconnect the left and right speakers at the amplifier. Connect the left speaker to where the right one was and the right to the left. Turn on the stereo system. If the speaker still does not, work then the problem is in between the amplifier and speaker itself.

2

Put the left and right speakers back to where they were in the amplifier. Make sure the car and stereo are off. Switch the position of the RCA cables in the amplifier. Put the left one where the right one is and the right one where the left one is. Turn the stereo on. If the speaker still does not work, the amplifier may be broken.

3

Test the crossover. The crossover will be connected to the amplifier and the head unit. Plug the RCA cables that are going into the amplifier into the extra outputs on the crossover. Turn on the stereo. If the speaker works, then you know it was the output on the crossover that was faulty.

4

Pull the head unit from the dashboard. This can be done by hand if the head unit is just sitting in place. You may need to have the head unit professionally removed if it is connected within the dashboard. Remove the RCA cables from the back of the head unit. Do not unplug any other wires. Put the RCA cable for the speaker that is not working in the output for another speaker. Turn on the stereo. If the speaker works, then the problem is either the RCA cable or the output on the head unit. If the speakers are still not working, then they may need to be replaced.

Removing the fuel tank from your Ford Bronco may be necessary if the tank is leaking or has sustained some other form of damage. The tank on the Bronco sits between the frame rails all the way to the rear of the truck. It is held in position with a set of steel straps on top and a full skid plate underneath. The upper straps do not need to come off as lowering the tank out through the bottom of the truck is the simplest way to remove it.

Instructions

1

Raise the rear of your Ford Bronco with a jack and support it with a set of jack stands. Slide under the truck and locate the fuel lines on the fittings at the front of the fuel tank. Remove the hose clamps from the lines with a flat screwdriver and remove the lines from the tank fittings.

2

Position the jack under the center of the fuel tank skid plate and place a wide piece of wood between it and the tank skid. Raise the jack just enough to support the tank then remove the retaining bolts around the perimeter of the tank skid with a socket and ratchet.

3

Lower the jack slowly, until the filler neck hose from the body to the tank is accessible. Remove the hose clamp from the filler hose and the vent hose next to it with a flat screwdriver. Slide the hoses off the tank.

4

Slowly lower the jack, lowering the fuel tank and skid plate out of the frame. Once it is low enough, slide the jack back, bring the fuel tank and skid plate with it.

5

Remove the tank from the jack and set it somewhere safe. Outside or in a well ventilated area if perred as the tank will still have some fuel vapors in it even if completely empty.

The Brute Force 750 is a 4x4 all-terrain vehicle (ATV) developed by Kawasaki Corporation. This electrically powered vehicle is used by outdoor enthusiasts and weekend warriors alike. Upon its release, there were a few issues with its parts.

Starting Issues

Sometimes, the model will sputter out after starting or soon after. This especially happens after cold weather or after taking an extended break from riding. This is due to the plugs and the check valve malfunctioning.

Backfiring

Some users have complained that the Brute Force 750 will only run during choke and backfires flames through the exhaust pipe. This problem is usually cited by infrequent users.

Ball Joints

Ball joints wearing down prematurely have also been an issue. This has even led to the destruction of connected parts as most would never think to check them for wear and tear early in the vehicles use.

The 7.3-liter Power Stroke engine that Ford manufactured from 1995 to 2002 is a diesel engine and typically has a turbocharger. It is most common in heavy Ford trucks from this period, and is the standard engine for the 1999 Ford F350 Super Duty with four-wheel drive. This engine requires a high-pressure oil pump, which is mounted directly to the cylinder block. The oil pump replacement procedure on a 1999 7.3-liter engine requires the removal of the radiator and the crankshaft damper.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench to prevent anyone from starting the engine. Place a drain pan for the coolant under the radiator drain and open the drain. Allow the coolant to drain into the drain pan and replace the drain plug.

2

Remove the retainers for the air intake duct with a suitable pry tool and detach the air intake duct from the radiator support. Disconnect the expansion tank on top of the radiator with a socket wrench and remove the cover for the radiator support brace.

3

Disconnect the cooling fan and its shroud from the engine. Detach the hoses from the radiator and remove the retaining bolts for the radiator with a socket wrench. Remove the radiator from the vehicle.

4

Raise the vehicle with a jack and support it on jack stands. Disconnect the cover for the flywheel housing with a socket wrench and hold the flywheel in place with a suitable holding tool. Remove the mounting bolt for the crankshaft pulley bolt and disconnect the pulley. Detach the crankshaft vibration damper from the engine.

5

Assemble Step Plate Adapter D80L-630-A, Damper Wear Ring Remover T94T-6379-AH1, Bearing Collet Sleeve T77F-7025-C, Remover Tube T77J-7025-B and Forcing Screw T84T-7025-B to the crankshaft damper. Tighten the forcing screw to pull the damper wear ring from the hub.

6

Remove the retaining bolts that attach the oil pump to the cylinder block with a socket wrench. Detach the oil pump housing and its square gasket from the cylinder block.

7

Install the new oil pump and gasket to the cylinder block. Torque its mounting bolts to 14 ft. lbs with a torque wrench. Complete the oil pump installation by performing steps 2 through 5 in reverse order. Connect the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. Start the engine and check for oil leaks.

Removing leaf springs from a truck or car is a major job and can be very dangerous. Unless the frame of the vehicle is securely jacked up, the whole vehicle can fall, potentially crushing anyone underneath. The process requires three jacks and you should use the heaviest jacks possible, particularly if you are working on a truck or SUV.

Instructions

1

Park your vehicle on level ground and chock the front wheels with wood or metal chocks.

2

Place a floor jack under the rear axle and raise the vehicle as high as necessary.

3

Place jack stands under both sides of the frame, supporting it firmly.

4

Remove the rear tires, lower the floor jack and leave the car suspended on the jack stands.

5

Raise the floor jack again until it just touches the axle. Remove the U-bolts and lower the floor jack again, allowing the leaf springs to separate from the axle.

6

Raise the floor jack again after the leaf springs and tires have been replaced. Remove the jack stands, then lower the floor jack.

Hydraulic jacks are essential tools in any auto repair shop. Like all tools, they can wear out. In most hydraulic jacks the seals wear out first, causing oil to leak from the jack and the jack to stop lifting. Sometimes this problem can be fixed by thoroughly rebuilding the jack and replacing the seals. The procedure is the same whether you have a bottle jack or a floor jack. Floor jacks have a bottle jack inside them, so take it out before starting the procedure.

Instructions

1

Drain the oil from the jack by opening the oil reservoir cap and draining out as much as you can. Bear in mind that there may still be oil in other parts of the jack.

2

Remove the handle assembly by unbolting it. There are usually two or three bolts involved and the process will vary depending on the type of jack you are working with. You will be able to skip this step with some floor jacks. Remove the pump piston by pulling it out. It should come out with some pulling. The best option is to put the jack in a vice.

3

Remove the release valve by unscrewing the cap. There is a ball or pin underneath. Use the pencil magnet to lift this out.

4

Remove the overload valve. This is usually located close to the release valve. Unscrew the cap and remove it. Inside are usually two balls and two springs. Remove these with the pencil magnet and record the order in which they came out.

5

Remove the tank nut with the pipe wrench. The tank nut is the nut at the top of the bottle. Once this has been removed the piston will be loose and the parts should slide apart. Make a note of what slides out of what so that they can be put back together in the same order.

6

Examine all the o-rings and washers for pinches, breaks and caps. Replace those that need replacing. When you lever the seals from the metal parts make sure you lever away from the sealing surface, otherwise you may damage the sealing surface and compromise the seal. It may help with the initial seal if you soak all the soft o-rings and washers in hydraulic oil before putting them in place.

7

Slide the parts of the piston back together, using your notes for erence. Slide the piston back into the bottle and secure it with the tank nut.

8

Replace the overload valve. Replace the balls and springs using your notes to give you the order, although the normal order is the small, then the smaller, spring, and then the large ball and the large spring. Reference your notes for the position of the guides, plates and anything else.

9

Replace the release valve. Drop the ball or pin into place and replace the cap.

10

Replace the pump piston by pushing it back into its place. Replace any parts of the handle assembly you removed to get to the pump piston.

11

Put the oil back into the reservoir and top the oil up to about 1/4-inch below the hole when holding the jack horizontally. Bleed air from the system by closing the oil reservoir, pumping the handle vigorously with the release valve open and then raising and lowering the jack normally. If the jack does not reach its full height, repeat the bleed process until it does.

12

Test the jack by lifting a load. Wipe the jack with the cloth before starting the lift and check the outside after the lift for evidence of any leaks.

Automotive U-joints are normally located on either end of the drive shaft between the transmission and rear axle on rear-wheel-drive vehicles, or between the transaxle and wheels in front-wheel-drive cars. Because of their location, these U-joints are susceptible to rust because of their exposure to water and road salts. Although rubber boots cover the U-joints on front-wheel-drive vehicles, the boots will eventually fail and allow the elements in. With time the rubber seals on the U-joint bearing caps fail and let the corrosive elements inside the cap, causing the needle bearings to rust and corrode. Getting out these rusty U-joints looks difficult, but is actually relatively simple.

Instructions

1

Remove the drive shaft from the vehicle.

2

Remove the snap rings over all four U-joint bearing caps by putting the tips of an inside snap ring pliers into the holes in the snap ring, squeezing the handle of the pliers to compress the snap ring, and pulling the snap ring away from the bearing cap. Clean all grease and grime off the U-joint bearing caps with a shop rag.

3

Choose the appropriate size receiver cup and anvil from a C-clamp U-joint press kit. Slip the receiver cup into the large hole at one end of the C-clamp. Slide the anvil onto the end of the threaded pressure shaft at the other end of the C-clamp.

4

Position the U-joint press so the receiver cup is over one cap in the yoke and the pressure shaft is on the opposite cap. Turn the pressure shaft clockwise by hand until the C-clamp is snug.

5

Fit an adjustable wrench to the hex head on the end of the pressure shaft. Rotate the pressure shaft clockwise with the wrench until the bearing cap on the opposite side pushes out into the receiver cup. Turn the pressure shaft counterclockwise until the C-clamp is free of the yoke.

6

Rotate the drive shaft 180 degrees. Install the C-clamp as before with the pressure shaft on the solid portion of the U-joint. Turn the shaft as before to force the other bearing cap out of the yoke.

7

Remove the yoke from the solid portion of the drive shaft by pushing the yoke to one side, tilting the other side away from the drive shaft and lifting it off the solid portion of the U-joint.

8

Rotate the drive shaft 90 degrees in either direction.

9

Remove the other two U-joint bearing caps from the drive shaft in the same manner as the first two bearing caps.

10

Move the solid portion of the U-joint to either side in the drive shaft. Tip the opposite side away from the drive shaft and lift it out, completing the removal of the rusty U-joint.

Most newer vehicles, be they cars, trucks or SUVs, come standard with fog lights. These additional headlights are set low in the nose of the vehicle to better illuminate the road directly in front of the vehicle. Fog lights are valuable aides to the improving a drivers vision in foggy, snowy or rainy conditions. Adding euro clear fog lights is a quick and easy repair that personalizes your vehicle and gives it an updated look.

Instructions

1

Park your vehicle in a safe work place. Look for a flat and level surface that has adequate light to work by. Turn off the engine and apply the parking brake.

2

Wait 30 minutes before beginning work to allow the vehicle to cool. Slide underneath the front end of the vehicle and position yourself near the rear of the drivers side fog light.

3

Remove any dust covers or access panels. These can usually be removed by prying them off with a Flathead screwdriver. Once these are removed, locate the wiring harness. The harness will be plugged into the fog light socket. Unplug the harness to access the interior of the fog light assembly.

4

Unscrew the mounting bolts. The bolts hold the assembly in the front bumper of the automobile. On most autos, there will be three bolts which can be removed with a regular wrench. Once the bolts are removed, slide out the old fog light assembly.

5

Insert the euro clear fog light assembly. Place the new assembly into the same place in the bumper from where the old assembly was removed. Attach the mounting bolts, wiring harness and dust cover as they were on the original assembly.

6

Repeat the process for the light on the passengers side.

There are very few reasons to install aftermarket rocker arms. Either the factory rocker arms have failed or they allow too much flex when using stiffer valve springs. Too much flex will cause performance issues, tappet noise or both. Yella Terra rockers are built stronger than the ones that come from the factory; hence, they slightly increase horsepower on high-performance engines. While there is a specific procedure for installing Yella Terra rockers, after the valve covers and fuel rails are removed, installing Yella Terra rockers should not be too difficult for someone with automotive repair experience.

Instructions

1

Turn the engines crankshaft pulley bolt clockwise using a half-inch drive socket with the appropriate size socket wrench installed.

2

Pick any cylinder and observe the valve stems and rocker arms while turning the engine. The exhaust valve will compress and release first, then the intake valve will compress and release. Stop turning the engine at this point. The cylinder is on its compression stroke and both valves are closed. Do not turn the engine anymore.

3

Remove all the bolts holding all the rocker arms to the cylinder head with the appropriate sized socket wrench attached to a 3-inch long 3/8-inch drive extension on a 3/8-inch drive ratchet wrench.

4

Slide two of the bolts that held down the old rockers through the top of a pair of Yella Terra rockers. Slip a Yella Terra pedestal onto each bolt from the bottom of the rocker arm. Ensure that the wide flat part of the pedestal will contact the cylinder head after installing the Yella Terra rocker assembly.

5

While holding the thumbs on the top of the rocker bolts and holding the pedestals on the bolts with the first finger of each hand, slide the bolts into the cylinder head over the cylinder that has the closed valves. Thread to the bolts back into the cylinder head by turning them clockwise. Ensure that the concave portion of the rocker sits on top of the push rod while the flat portion of the rocker sits on top of the valve stem.

6

Take the ratchet off the 3/8-inch extension. Run the bolts down as far as possible by sliding the socket wrench onto the bolts and turning them using the extension until the bolts are finger tight. At this point, there should be no gap between the push rod and the rocker or the valve stem and the rocker. Install the extension back onto the ratchet.

7

Slip the socket over one of the bolts so that the ratchets handle points to the 12 oclock position.

8

Tighten the bolt by turning the ratchet clockwise 90 degrees until the ratchet handle points to the three oclock position. Repeat for the second bolt. Alternate this procedure between the first and second bolts, counting the number of 90-degree turns it takes to them. If more than four turns are required, remove the bolts and install one of the shims included with the new Yella Terra rocker arms onto each bolt, between the pedestal and the cylinder head. If the push rods and the valve stems are the correct length, installing the shims should result in only having to make between one and two 90-degree turns of the ratchet to tighten the bolts.

9

Install the rest of the Yella Terra rockers. If the first set of rockers required shims, use shims on all the rocker sets. If no shims were necessary, do not use shims at any of the other rocker sets.

10

Slide the correct size 1/2-inch drive socket onto a 1/2-inch drive torque wrench. Torque the bolts holding the rockers to the head, according to the engine manufacturers specifications.

The definition of camber angle in your 1988 Mustang is: the inward or outward tilt of the top of the tire as viewed from the front of the car. Making a camber adjustment on the 1988 Mustang is a matter of moving the position of the upper strut mount relative to the lower ball joint. Moving the strut mount in toward the center of the Mustang will cause camber to be more negative and moving it out away from the center will cause camber to be more positive. The goal of the camber adjustment is to provide good steering stability, with minimal tire wear.

Instructions

1

Park the car on a level surface with the steering wheel pointed straight ahead and level. Apply the parking brake and secure the front wheels with wheel chocks wedged in front of and behind the wheels.

2

Attach the camber gauge to the front wheel following the instructions supplied with the gauge set. This varies from manufacturer to manufacturer, and you should do it according to the manufacturers instructions to prevent damage to the gauge or wheel.

3

Locate the camber adjustment point on the upper strut mount. In the 1988 Mustang, this is on top of the strut towers on either side of the engine compartment. The strut mount plate is bolted to the strut tower and the adjuster is pop-riveted to the strut tower.

4

Remove the pop rivet by drilling the head off the rivet, using a 1/4-inch drill bit, and pushing the body of the rivet through the strut tower using a center punch. An alternative method is to cut the rivet head off with a hammer and chisel before pushing the rivet through the tower.

5

Place a floor jack under the front lower control arm and lift the wheel slightly off the ground. Using a wrench, loosen the three 15-mm nuts that attach the mount to the tower.

6

Insert a pry bar between the strut tower and the mount and pry the mount, in the direction necessary, to adjust the camber. Move the mount until the camber gauge shows .5 degrees +/- .25 negative camber. Tighten the strut tower nuts and lower the car to the ground. Repeat the process for the opposite side of the car.

7

Lower the floor jack and bounce the front of the car to settle the chassis. Recheck the camber reading with the car on the ground. Readjust the camber as necessary until the camber readings on both sides are within specifications and within .5 degrees camber of each other.

Mazda completely redesigned the Miata for the 1999 model year with a completely different look. Many enthusiasts were relieved that Mazda left well-enough alone underneath. The 1999 Miata still used the same 1.8 liter four-cylinder engine that was used in the first-generation cars. The stock single-exhaust pipe is attached to a cast-iron exhaust manifold that is bolted to the engine. A cracked manifold will allow exhaust gases to enter the passenger compartment and should be replaced immediately.

Instructions

1

Spray penetrating fluid on the heat shield retaining bolts, the exhaust manifold-to-engine block bolts, the EGR pipe fitting and the exhaust pipe-to-manifold bolts. Allow the fluid to soak in overnight, if possible.

2

Loosen and remove the nut and bolt that secures the factory shock tower brace to the drivers side shock tower with a socket and ratchet. Lift the brace straight up to allow access to the exhaust manifold. Skip this step if your car did not come equipped with the shock tower brace.

3

Loosen and remove the retaining bolts for the windshield washer reservoir with a socket and ratchet. Lift the tank straight up and move it to the side -- as far as the connections will allow -- to provide access to the heat shields on the exhaust manifold. Skip this step if your car is not equipped with anti-lock brakes.

4

Loosen and remove the retaining bolts on the air cleaner housing on top of the engine with a socket and ratchet. Loosen the clamp that secures the air intake hose to the air cleaner housing with a Phillips screwdriver. Pull the hose off the housing. Push the housing to the side to allow access to the heat shields and exhaust manifold. Cover the ends of the intake hose and its fitting on the air cleaner housing with clean rags to prevent foreign debris or dirt from entering.

5

Loosen and remove the retaining bolts that attach both of the heat shields to the exhaust manifold with a socket and ratchet. Remove the heat shields from the manifold and place them aside.

6

Remove the EGR tube retaining bolts on the exhaust manifold and the intake manifold with a socket and ratchet. Loosen and unscrew the fitting that attaches the EGR tube to the end of the exhaust manifold with a tubing wrench.

7

Loosen and remove the three bolts that attach the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold with a wrench.

8

Loosen and remove the exhaust manifold-to-engine block retaining bolts with a socket and ratchet. Work slowly to avoid damaging or breaking off the bolts in the block. Stop and apply more penetrating fluid, if one or more of the bolts seem very tight. Allow the fluid to soak in for several hours, if possible.

9

Pull the manifold away from the engine block. Note that the water pipe bracket will slide off one of the manifold mounting studs as you remove the manifold. Do not allow the water pipe to move rearward. Remove the manifold from the engine bay. Remove the exhaust manifold gasket from the engine block. Scrape away any gasket residue on the mounting surface with a gasket scraper.

10

Position a new exhaust manifold gasket over the mounting studs on the engine block. Position the replacement exhaust manifold over the mounting studs. Push the water pipe bracket over the stud that it was originally attached to. Replace and tighten the manifold retaining bolts to between 29 and 33 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

11

Replace the exhaust pipe-to-manifold bolts and tighten them to between 32 to 44 foot-pounds. Tighten the EGR tube fitting into the end of the manifold to between 24 and 34 foot-pounds. Replace and tighten the remaining EGR tube retaining bolts.

12

Replace the heat shields and tighten the retaining bolts. Place the air cleaner housing into position and tighten the retaining bolts. Remove the rags from the intake hose and air cleaner housing. Push the intake hose onto the housing and tighten the hose clamp.

13

Replace the windshield washer reservoir -- if your car has ABS -- and tighten the retaining bolts. Push the shock tower brace -- if your car is so equipped -- into position and replace and tighten the retaining bolt and nut.

For the 2010 model year, Dodge continued to market its Dakota, Ram 1500, Ram 2500 and Ram 3500 lines of pickup trucks. The Dakota is considered a mid-size pickup truck, while the Doge Rams are heavy-duty pickup trucks. Each of the Dodge pickup trucks came in several two-wheel-drive and four-wheel-drive trims in 2010. Likewise, each truck was available with multiple types of cabs. Some trims came with different-sized wheels. All of these factors influence the alignment specs of the truck, and it is important to be certain to use the appropriate alignment specs for a given vehicle. Before attempting to adjust the alignment of a 2010 Dodge truck, consult your owners manual or a certified mechanic. The specs provided below apply only to the designated trims of the vehicles and should not be applied to any other Dodge truck of 2010 or any other year. The rear end is not adjustable on any of the vehicles erenced below.

2010 Ram 1500 4X2 with 17-inch Tires

The caster angle should be set at +3.5 degrees on the left front wheel and +3.75 degrees on the right front wheel, with a variance of 0.5 degrees on either wheel and a cross tolerance of 0.5 degrees. The camber angle should be set at +0.1 degrees on the left wheel and -0.1 degrees on the front right wheel, with a variance of 0.5 degrees for either wheel and a cross tolerance of 0.5 degrees. The ideal setting for the toe-in on the front end is +0.1 degrees but it can range from -0.26 to +0.46 degrees.

2010 Ramp 3500 4X4, All Trims Except Box Off

The caster angle on the front end can range from +4.0 degrees to +5.0 degrees, with the ideal setting being +4.5 degrees with a cross tolerance of 0.5 degrees. The camber angle can range from -0.25 degrees to +0.75 degrees, with the ideal setting being +0.25 degrees with cross tolerance of 0.5 degrees. The toe-in should be set at +0.2 degrees but can range from +0.1 degrees to +0.3 degrees.

The 2010 Dakota 4X4

The ideal setting for the caster angle is +3.5 degrees on the front left wheel and +3.8 degrees on the front right wheel, with a variance of 0.5 degrees on either wheel and a cross tolerance of 0.5 degrees. The ideal setting for the camber angle is +0.1 degrees on the front left wheel and -0.1 degrees for the front right wheel, with a variance of 0.5 degrees on either wheel and a cross tolerance of 0.5 degrees. The ideal setting for the toe-in is +0.2 degrees but it can range from +0.1 degrees to +0.3 degrees.

Getting a flat tire is frustrating; not being able to remove the flat tire is maddening. Automobiles are provided with all the necessary equipment to change a tire: a jack to raise the car; a "doughnut" or spare tire to help you get home or to a service station to repair your tire; and a tire iron to remove the lug nuts that are keeping your now wounded or deflated tire securely on your car. The tire iron, or lug wrench, also doubles as a lug wrench key, and is specifically designed to help remove the lug nuts on the tire. Using the lug nut key correctly can accelerate the tire changing process.

Instructions

1

Examine the lug nuts on the tire and determine if there is a locking lug nut. Typically the locking lug nut will have a different head, either rounded or with a design.

2

Place the lug nut key on the locking lug nut, making sure that the key is on the nut securely.

3

Turn the lug nut key clockwise to loosen the lug nut. If the lug nut is on too tightly, step downwards on the lug nut key for added force. Remove the lug nut by unscrewing it.

4

Continue loosening and removing the remaining lug nuts with the lug nut key in the same fashion.

Aluminum rims come in lots of styles and sizes, and can positively affect the look of a vehicle. However, replacement of these wheels can often be expensive. This is one reason repairing aluminum wheels can sometimes be the better option for vehicle owners.

Facts

Because of the molecular structure of aluminum, it can be melted over and over without losing its structural make up. These qualities allow aluminum rims to be repaired somewhat easier than other metal wheels.

Test

An Eddy Test is a test on aluminum rims which reveal stressed and weak areas of the rim. A current is introduced into the metal and as the magnetic field is measured, defects in the wheel are revealed. This in turn gives the repair shop an idea of the repairability of the rims.

Repair

After inspecting the structural qualities of the rim, the next step is to remove the finish of the rim with either a metal oxide, or a type of acrylic medium. The damaged rim is then reshaped, inished and repolished.

Harley gas tanks must never leak and when they leak they must never be repaired. Leaking tanks must be scrapped and replaced. New gas tanks leak because of defective welds. If pressure testing reveals a leak in a new tank the tank should be returned to the place of purchase for a und. Used gas tanks leak because of camouflaged collision damage or internal corrosion. Used tanks should always be stripped of paint and bead blasted before pressure testing. Gas tanks must always be empty and dry before being worked on. Pressure testing requires a reliable source of clean, dry, compressed air.

Instructions

1

Connect the air compressor to the air tank with an air hose and two air hose fittings. Regulate the pressure of the compressed air released from the air tank with an air pressure gauge. Use the regulated compressed air with a pressurized air line and detachable fittings.

2

Drop a one foot length of light chain into the gas tank through the filler opening. Shake the tank to loosen and remove any rust inside the tank. Remove the chain.

3

Turn the tank upside down and shake vigorously. Attach a blower fitting to a pressurized air line. Blast the inside of the tank with pressurized air.

4

Seal the petcock opening on the bottom of the gas tank with an air hose fitting attached to a pressurized air line. If necessary, install a fuel petcock and fit the air hose to the petcock with a hose fitting and a flat head screwdriver.

5

Prepare a solution of 50 percent dish washing detergent and 50 percent water. Adjust the air pressure leaving the compressed air tank to 15 pounds per square inch above atmosphere.

6

Seal the gas cap and pressurize the inside of the gas tank to 15 pounds per square inch above atmosphere. Paint the exterior of the gas tank with the detergent-water solution using a paint brush.

7

Look for air bubbles. Any air bubble indicates a leak and a defective gas tank.

Shock absorbers are an important element of automotive suspension. They slow or "dampen" the shock effect of bumps and bounces from the road surface. All work on the same principle: they are tubes filled with fluid with a piston. A bump or shock forces the piston against the fluid; a small amount is allowed to seep through minute holes in the piston head. This compression reduces the force of the shock; the piston then returns to its normal position.

Basic Shock Types

There are three broad types of shock absorber: conventional telescopic, strut or spring seat. Within the conventional type are five varieties: standard, heavy duty, automatic level control, adjustable air and overload. Modern cars tend to have MacPherson struts in front. Older cars and most trucks use conventional shock absorbers, with the variety depending on the use. The specific type of shock absorber will vary with the vehicle and its use.

Conventional Telescopic

The conventional telescropic is the most common type of shock absorber. Variations come from the type of oil or hydraulic fluid used. Some -- gas shocks -- use nitrogen gas to reduce the bouncy effect of a shock. These are used mostly on smaller cars, although some manufacturers put them on larger models as a way to extend the life of the hydraulic fluid by expanding to make up for a drop in fluid effectiveness. Conventional shocks bolt to the vehicle suspension.

Similarities of Struts and Spring Seat

MacPherson struts do the same job as conventional shock absorbers, but replace part of the vehicles basic suspension system. These are generally found on the front suspension of newer cars; they are able to better cope with greater loads and forces and thus produce a smoother ride. MacPherson struts use replaceable cartridges but because they are part of the vehicle suspension they are under greater tension and generally require replacement by a professional. Spring seat shocks combine elements of the other styles -- a shock absorber installed within a spring.

Choosing a Shock Absorber

The choice of a shock absorber will depend on the vehicle and its use. Standard shocks are most common -- heavy duty variations are used on heavier vehicles. Automatic level styles can be adjusted to adapt to changing loads. Adjujstable air shocks can be inflated to meet varying conditions. Overload shocks incorporate a spring around the piston for added strength; these differ from spring seat shocks in that the spring is an integral part of the shock.

Depending on your perspective, an off-center steering wheel can be a truly infuriating experience, all the more so when the car doesnt pull to either direction. Theres something about this condition that just seems to baffle the human mind; how can the car be going straight when the wheel is turned? But the reason for a steering wheel turn, and the subsequent fix, is actually pretty simple once you understand what went wrong.

Steering Basics

Your steering wheel connects to a steering column. At the end of that column is a gear called a pinion, and that pinion meshes onto matching teeth on top of a flat bar called a rack. When you turn the pinion, it pushes the rack to the left or the right. The ends of the rack connect to tie rods, which in turn connect to arms extending backward from the wheel hubs. On the tie rods youll find a threaded collar; turning it makes the tie rod longer or shorter, angling the wheel inward or outward. Of course, this describes only a rack-and-pinion system, but most steering systems are functionally identical where the steering linkage is concerned.

Rear Toe and Steering

Most cars also have a second bar running from side-to-side in the rear, and those that dont typically have some provision to turn the axle one direction or the other. While it may seem a bit strange, the rear axle and its tie rods are just as responsible for steering your car as the front. The difference is that the rear axle only turns the rear of the car. If your rear alignment settings -- via the tie rods or axle alignment -- are off, youll have to turn the wheel in the same direction as the rear tires to keep the car pointed down the road. This alone will cause your steering wheel off-center, because the car is actually going down the road slightly sideways.

Alignment Problems

An off-center steering wheel is, paradoxically, a pretty common complaint following a front-wheel alignment. During an alignment, the technician will adjust your front tie rods to whatever degree necessary to remove any pull on the steering wheel. In the course of doing so, hell end up changing the position of the wheels relative to the steering column just to keep them pointed in the same direction as the rear tires. While this does eliminate that sideways pull, itll also permanently cock your car sideways. This "off-tracking" or "dog-tracking" is dangerous because it changes your cars low and high-speed handling characteristics, and itll kill your fuel economy by exposing the broad side of your car to the wind.

Dialing Out the Turn

Since this is essentially a problem with rear wheel angle, you need to adjust that first. The simplest way is to take your car to an alignment shop and have them perform a four-wheel alignment. If youre doing it yourself -- which you shouldnt unless youve got the right equipment -- then you need to get the rear wheels pointed perfectly straight first. Then, youll need to start the engine, turn the wheel a couple of times to relieve pressure from the power steering system. Shut the car down with the wheel locked in a straight-ahead, 12-oclock position. Finally, adjust the front tie rods to get the wheels straight. At this point, the problem is essentially fixed and your car is once again pointed straight, but youre not quite done yet.

Setting the Toe

While it might sound odd, most cars arent going down the road with all four wheels pointed straight forward. Many have a certain degree of front or rear "toe." Toe-in means the front of the wheels point inward, or sort of cross-eyed. Toe-out means they point slightly outward. Different manufacturers and drivers per different degrees of toe-in or -out for a given car. Toe-in makes that axle more stable on the highway and under braking by causing the wheels to constantly try to turn toward each other. Toe-out causes that axle to change direction more quickly at the expense of stability. A zero-toe setting does nothing for directional stability either way, but is the hypothetical optimum for fuel economy. Setting toe is vital for your cars performance and safety, and its somewhat difficult to measure without the right equipment. So, unless you really know what youre doing, these sorts of alignment settings are best left to professionals.

A 1987 Ford Truck relies on two things to start: the battery and fuel in the gas tank. If you are having problems getting your Ford truck to start, you can troubleshoot these two issues and make sure that everything is working properly. If you have a dead battery, you might need to replace it. However, if the battery is just low on a charge, you can jump start the car and allow the battery to charge up.

Instructions

1

Open the hood to gain access to the battery and the battery terminals.

2

Loosen the battery terminals from the battery and clean any corrosion off of them with a wire brush and soda. The sodas carbonation will eat away at the corrosion and allow you to scrub it off with the brush.

3

Reconnect the battery terminals to the battery and try to start your truck.

4

Jump start the 1987 Ford truck with jumper cables and a friends car. Allow the truck to run for about five minutes and then cut it off.

5

Try to restart the truck. If the truck will not restart, replace your battery.

6

Check your fuel level. Add 1 gal. of gas to your truck and then try to restart it. If the truck starts up, replace the gas gauge.

Catalytic converters use exhaust heat trapped in a matrix of ceramic plate and precious metals to change exhaust gases chemical composition to a more benign form. Quick-moving gases might sometimes lack the opportunity to catalyze fully, which may require two or more converters.

Converter Function

Converters contain a honeycomb-like ceramic matrix with thousands of tiny passages. Exhaust flows through these passages, combining with the platinum, rhodium, palladium and cesium on the passage walls to add or subtract nitrogen or oxygen atoms. This gain or loss converts the toxic molecules in the exhaust into more benign forms.

Emissions Requirements

Different countries and unions have different emissions requirements and require different catalytic converters. The European Union disallows the use of nickel in converters but permits copper (which the United States does not). Most large car manufacturers offer several variations on the same chassis to market all over the world. Using more than one converter allows the manufacturer to meet local emissions standards while using the same basic chassis worldwide.

Modularity

Not all car manufacturers produce their own catalytic converters; many converters are outsourced from specialty catalytic converter manufacturers. Because most cars come with a number of different engine options, manufacturers may need to mix and match different converters to meet emissions requirements for a particular engine-chassis combination.

The Chevrolet Tahoe is a full-size sport utility vehicle, or SUV, thats virtually identical to the GMC Yukon. A 1997 Chevrolet Tahoe most often has an 8-cylinder, 5.7-liter engine with 2-wheel or 4-wheel drive. This vehicle has sequential fuel injection, which requires a fuel pump that delivers fuel to the injectors at high pressure. The fuel pump in a 1997 Chevrolet Tahoe is in the fuel tank, so you must remove the fuel tank to replace the fuel pump.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable to the batterys negative terminal with a socket wrench. Loosen the filler cap on the fuel tank to relieve the pressure in the fuel tank. Drain the fuel tank by siphoning the fuel into a gasoline container with a hose. Raise the rear of the vehicle with a jack and support it on jack stands. Release the clamps on the hoses for the filler neck and vent tube of the fuel tank. Support the fuel tank with jack stands and detach the support straps for the fuel tank. Lower the fuel tank slightly and disconnect the electrical connections and hose on the fuel tank. Remove the fuel tank from the vehicle.

2

Turn the retaining ring on the fuel sender assembly counterclockwise with tool J-39765. Remove the retaining ring. Lift the fuel sender assembly out of the fuel tank and pull the fuel pump into the attaching hose while holding the bottom support of the fuel pump in place. Discard the O-ring on the fuel tank.

3

Install the new fuel pump into the attaching hose of the fuel sender assembly. Use care to avoid bending the fuel strainer since this will restrict fuel flow. Place a new O-ring on the fuel tank and install the fuel sender assembly into the fuel tank.

4

Place the locking ring on the fuel sender assembly and turn it clockwise with tool J-39765 until the ring locks into place.

5

Install the fuel tank by reversing step 1. Pressurize the fuel system by turning the ignition on for two seconds and turning it off for 10 seconds. Turn the ignition on and check the fuel lines for leaks.

If you have gotten into an accident or you are repairing a 2004 Dodge Stratus that simply needs a new grille and bumper, you can visit any official Dodge retailer to order replacement parts. However, if you want to try to save some money on these parts, you can order them online instead. Dodges official website does not sell these items online, however there are a number of third parties that sell grilles, bumpers and other parts for a minimal cost.

Instructions

1

Visit a website that sells Dodge parts.

2

Click "Stratus."

3

Select "2004" next to year.

4

Select "Stratus Coupe" or "Stratus Sedan" depending on the model you own.

5

Type "Bumper" in the search box and click "Search." A list of bumper options will appear.

6

Type "Grille" into the "Search" box to see grille results.

You must learn an engines firing order---the order in which the spark plugs ignite for engine operation---when dealing with any sort of repair dealing with its cylinders. The Ford 302 engine has its own particular firing order.

Ford 302 Firing Order

The Ford 302 has the firing order 1, 5, 4, 2, 6, 3, 7, 8. The cylinders sit on the engine block in a specific order. The left side (your left, while looking at the engine from the front) has cylinders 1, 2, 3 and 4, from front to back. The right side has cylinders 5, 6, 7,and 8 starting from front to back as well. The distributor rotation occurs counterclockwise.

Significance of Firing Order

Firing order determines the sequence in which the cylinders in your vehicles engine receive power. An engines firing order can attribute to minimizing vibration, which affects the overall life of the engine.

Spark Plug Wires

When working on an engine, keep the relationship between the firing order and spark plug wires. The spark plug wires connect the spark plugs to the engine, and you must change them in accordance with the engines firing order.

The PT Cruiser is a car model produced by Chrysler Corporation. It is a small, multipurpose vehicle and was introduced in 2000. One of the most frequently reported problems are the windows, and the wiring and switches that power them.

Front/Back Windows

One issue involves the front windows failing to work while the back ones remain fine. The back windows can be controlled from the floor console in the back and from the mid-console; the front ones only respond to the middle console.

Up and Down

Another problem involves the window switch. The windows have no problem going down but dont go back up. This is due to the window switch on the dashboard being damaged or broken.

Alignment Issues

The alignment of the windows can also cause problems. While the windows are up, the insulating strip begins to fall off. The strip tends to gradually get looser. This can impede the windows as they go down and up.

The Nissan Motor Company began importing the Datsun pickup truck to the United States in 1959. Automobile consumers in the United States were accustomed to large vehicles containing V8 engines, so the Datsun 1000, a compact truck with a 37-horse power four-cylinder engine, was a foreign concept to most American automobile consumers. Nissan soon dropped the Datsun name and continued to manufacture the truck under the Nissan name. Nissans sales continue to grow with continued innovations and standard features that include automatic transmissions and fuel injection. Installing a torque converter requires moderate automotive repair knowledge. The transmission should already be removed from the truck being serviced.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the trucks battery.

2

Raise the front of the truck off of the ground using a jack. Place one jack-stand behind each front wheel assembly, under the "A" arm. Lower the truck onto the jack-stands. Make sure the front of the truck is safely supported. Remove the jack.

3

Raise the rear of the tuck off of the ground using a jack. Place one jack-stand behind each rear wheel assembly, under the rear axle. Lower the truck onto the jack-stands. Make sure the rear of the vehicle is safely supported. Remove the jack.

4

Align the spines on the output shaft of the transmission to the grooves inside the torque converter

5

Push the torque converter onto the output shaft of the transmission by hand until the torque converter is fully seated.

6

Lift the transmission up using a transmission jack and align the flywheel studs on the torque converter to the holes in the flywheel. The flywheel is mounted on the rear of the engine, under the truck. Make sure the transmission is securely strapped or chained to the transmission jack before raising the transmission.

7

Push the transmission and jack assembly forward by hand until the torque converter studs come through the holes in the flywheel. Make sure the torque converter is sitting flush against the flywheel assembly and the bell housing is sitting flush against the rear of the engine.

8

Insert all six bell housing bolts through the bell housing into the rear of the engine block. Thread the bolts by hand to make sure there is no cross-threading. Tighten the bolts using a torque wrench and socket to the manufacturers recommended torque level. Make sure the bell housing is sitting flush on the rear of the engine block before tightening the bolts. Do not use the bell housing bolts to pull the two units together.

9

Locate the torque converter access cover on the bottom of the bell housing. Remove the two access cover bolts using a socket wrench and socket and pull the access cover off by hand. Set the access cover aside.

10

Locate the transmission gear selector switch on the drivers side of the transmission. Place the transmission in neutral. Check that the transmission is in neutral by rotating the flywheel and torque converter assembly by placing a pry bar through the access cover hole and turning the engine flywheel counterclockwise.

11

Thread all six of the torque converter nuts onto the torque converter studs by hand. Rotate the engine flywheel assembly counterclockwise using a pry bar to access each torque converter stud.

12

Tighten the torque converter nuts in a star pattern to the manufactures recommended torque level using a torque wrench and socket. Replace the bell housing access cover and tighten the two retaining bolts.

13

Replace the transmission cross-member and secure the cross-member to the truck frame using two bolts. Tighten the bolts using a torque wrench and socket to the manufacturers recommended torque level. Attach the transmission to the cross-member using two nuts. Tighten the nuts using a torque wrench and socket to the manufacturers recommended torque level.

14

Raise the starter mobile assembly up to the passenger side of the bell housing by hand. Insert the "gear end" of the starter motor assembly into the bell housing. Make sure the visible starter motor gears are facing the flywheel assembly and attach the starter motor assembly to the bell housing using two bolts. Tighten the two bolts using a torque wrench and socket to the manufacturers recommended torque level.

15

Attach the two transmission cooler lines to the passenger side of the transmission using a flare nut wrench.

16

Insert the drive shaft into the rear of the transmission. Lift the U-joint end of the drive shaft up to the rear axle of the vehicle and thread the four drive shaft retaining bolts through the U-joint into the rear end by hand. Tighten the four bolts to the manufactures recommended torque level using a torque wrench and a socket.

17

Attach the transmission shift linkage to the transmission gear selector switch on the driver side of the transmission and secure with a nut. Tighten the nut using a socket wrench and socket until the shift linkage is fully secure.

18

Locate the fluid filler tube hole on the front, driver side of the transmission. Insert the fluid filler tube into the transmission through the engine compartment. Secure the fluid filler tube onto the transmission using a bolt and tightening the bolt clockwise using a socket wrench and socket.

19

Raise the rear of the vehicle using a jack. Remove the two jack-stands. Lower the rear of the vehicle to the ground. Remove the jack.

20

Raise the front of the vehicle using a jack. Remove the two jack-stands. Lower the front of the vehicle to the ground. Remove the jack.

21

Connect the negative battery cable to the vehicles battery. Start the truck and let the engine idle until it reaches normal operating temperature. Shut off the trucks engine. Check the transmission fluid. Add fluid as needed until the transmission dip-stick reads full.

Molding machines are used to produce molds to make items of various shapes. They are also erred to as injection molding machines. They can either be horizontally or vertically aligned. However, most of the available injection molding machines are horizontally aligned. Vertically aligned injection molding machines find applications in areas such as insert molding. They are used for the formation of thermoset polymers, plastic injection molding or metal injection molding. Modern molding machines have been computerized to ensure consistent output and quality.

Injection Unit

Molding machines consist of injection units which come with geometrically designed gas nitride screws whose main function is to increase the plasticizing capacity. This unit consists of phosphorus/ultra bronze brushes whose purpose is to ensure perfect alignment of the mold halves as well as improve lifespan of molds. These brushes come with a lubrication arrangement. The unit also consists of a pre-suck back function and a carriage for sprue breaking. The injection unit is also capable of additional movement so as to access the nozzle and mold. This is enabled by the manually operated electro-hydraulic control. The injection unit is designed to provide high precision and to make it possible for the complex parts to be reproduced.

Locking Units

The locking units consist of movable mold platens. It is resistant to heat and corrosion which allows it to achieve an extended lifespan and it has self-lubricating pins and bushing. The locking units have a double-toggle mold clamping. The locking force can either be adjusted or automated. The material used for the manufacture of locking units make it resistant to wear.

Clamping Unit

The clamping unit consists of a multiple stroke hydraulic ejector and T slot platens for heavy duty molds. The force of the clamping unit can be adjusted to the maximum figure in accordance with the size of the mold. Hard chrome-plated tie rods are used for large diameters and they come with the clamping units. One of the main functions of the clamping unit is to provide the molding machine with the ability to open and close the mold during the molding process. It also allows for the ejection of the molded part to take place.

Hydraulic Unit

The hydraulic unit is easy to operate and also to maintain. It has valves mounted on the manifold block which can easily be accessed and allows for the minimization of any oil leaks. These valves help to save energy. The unit is equipped with an alarm for the notification of shutdown in cases when the hydraulic oil is overheated.

A Mazda key will not turn in the ignition for three main reasons: a problem with the physical key code, a tight steering column or a faulty ignition switch. In each case, the key is not connecting properly with the ignition switch.

Mazda Key Code

The Mazda key can contain a computer chip in its head specifically coded to communicate with a particular vehicle. Starting the ignition requires the correct code. A key inserted without the correct code may not turn at all or may only crank forward without starting.

Steering Wheel Lock

A steering wheel has a lock mechanism to prevent the key from turning in the ignition, a security device to prevent theft. To start the ignition, pull and hold the steering wheel to the right or left before you turn the key.

Tires Turned Tight

A key may not turn the ignition switch when you park the car on a hill with tires turned to the curb or out too tight. This position places pressure on the locking pin in the steering column and prevents it from moving. Rock the steering wheel left and right to loosen the locking pin and start the car.

Lose Ignition Switch

The ignition switch and starter can become loose and slip so the key fails to make correct contact. You can try to push the key in as you turn it. The starter may require replacement or at least tightening.

Removing the catalytic converter is not often required on your Jeep wrangler, but if you need to do it the process only takes a few minutes to complete. New converters are available though the dealer and many parts stores. They do not often go bad, but debris under the truck can damage the case or body of the converter.

Instructions

1

Raise the front of your Jeep with a jack. Position a set of jack stands under the front axle housing and lower the jack until the Jeep is resting securely on the jack stands.

2

Locate the catalytic converter under the truck. It is in the exhaust system just in front of the muffler and just behind the exhaust down pipe. Find the flange at the front of the converter with the two mounting bolts that secure it.

3

Remove the mounting bolts from the front flange with a ratchet and socket then separate the front pipe from the catalytic converter. Move to the back of the converter and locate the exhaust clamp that secures the catalytic converter to the muffler.

4

Remove the two mounting nuts from the clamp and separate the catalytic converter from the muffler by pulling the converter forward. Twisting the converter as you pull it will often help to free it from the pipe.

5

Remove the converter from under the truck.

Snap-on is an American company that has been producing quality tools since 1920. Originally dismissed by mainstream tool distributors, the company began using independent salespeople, a tradition that continued. The company also re-labeled Blue Point tools to supplement its line of available products. Given the popularity of Snap-on Tools, especially among mechanics, tools and tool boxes have become very collectible. The easiest way to track down the details of your Snap-on product is to use the Collecting Snap-on website, managed by Frank Murch.

Instructions

1

Look on the back of your tool box and record the markings. This first stylized number or symbol is the year of manufacture. The next is a "K-series" number, including "K," "KT," "KR," or "KRA." This identifies the specific type and size of box. The final series of numbers is the product number.

2

Compare this to the date chart on the website Collecting Snap-on. Each model year after 1927 has its own special way of listing the year, using a stylized number or symbol.

3

Access the relevant catalog on the website. Choose "Catalogs" then pick your year range from the drop-down menu and then the specific year.

4

Browse the catalog to find your product. The model number should be listed starting with the "K." Most catalogs have a picture and description, including measurements.

There are two schools of though regarding optimal efficiency for an exhaust pipe. Some would argue that an exhaust pipe should be short because of its aesthetic appeal. The other school of thought argues that longer tailpipes are better because they provide greater power curves and more overall engine power. There are two pieces of information that you must obtain in order to calculate the proper length of an exhaust pipe for your vehicle.

Instructions

1

Determine the center RPM values for your desired power curve. In other words, what will be the RPM amount for your average speed in the car? In general, motorcycles will be between 4000 and 5000. Cars will be between 650 and 800.

2

Calculate the opening point of the exhaust valve. The opening point is recorded in degrees before bottom dead center (BBDC). The default valve opening for a motorcycle is 43 degrees. The default opening for a car is 90 degrees.

3

Plug the two values into the exhaust length calculator program from the resources section of this article to get your result.

Water and motor oil are both liquids, but thats about all they have in common. Crude and ined oil contain dozens of different compounds, whereas pure water is composed of just hydrogen and oxygen molecules. However, the density of water can vary depending on whats in it.

Specific Gravity

The easiest way to compare the weights of oil and water is to examine their specific gravities. Specific gravity is a measurement used to compare the relative density of any substance to that of pure water when measured at one atmosphere of pressure (about 14.7 psi). Specific gravity is expressed as a percentage; a substance that has a specific gravity of 0.90 is 90 percent as dense as water, and one with a measurement of 1.10 weighs ten percent more than water. The materials temperature also plays a role, but doesnt affect this comparison much.

Oil vs. Water Density

Pure water is the erence point, so it has a specific gravity of 1.000. Salt is more dense than water, so seawater has a specific gravity of about 1.025, depending on the location. Crude oil density varies by location; "light" crude, such as that from Texas, measures at about 0.876, and heavier oils check in at 0.918. Refined oils, such as 5W-30 motor oil, are a bit lighter, at around 0.861.

Oil vs. Water Weight

Between its freezing point and about 100 degrees Fahrenheit, pure water weighs in at about 8.3 pounds per gallon and seawater weighs about 8.5 pounds (1.025 x 8.3 = 8.50) per gallon. Given their specific gravities, light crude weighs about 7.27 pounds per gallon, heavy crude weighs 7.61 pounds per gallon and ined motor oil checks in at about 7.14 pounds per gallon.

To bend steel pipe, you need to apply heat evenly to the entire area that you need to bend. The main problem with bending pipe without a tubing bender is kinking the pipe. If the pipe kinks, it will lose its structural integrity. The kink will restrict the flow of water if it is a water pipe; if it is steel pipe being used as electrical conduit, you will have a problem fishing the wires past the kink. To avoid kinking the steel pipe, you must support the walls of the pipe while you perform the bend.

Instructions

1

Cover one end of the steel pipe with two layers of duct tape. Secure the loose ends of the duct tape with more tape.

2

Stand the pipe on end, with the taped end resting on the floor, and fill the first 12 inches of the steel pipe with damp sand.

3

Pack the damp sand with the tamping rod and add more sand to the steel pipe. Continue the process of filling and packing the sand in the steel pipe until the entire length of pipe is filled with damp sand.

4

Cover the open end of the steel pipe with duct tape to contain the sand within the steel pipe.

5

Secure the sand-filled steel pipe in the vise, with the area of the steel pipe you need to bend extending out past the end of the vise.

6

Light the oxy-acetylene torch and set the torch to burn a neutral flame. A neutral flame will have a blue exterior flame with a short bright blue interior flame that does not emit any black soot.

7

Evenly heat the entire area that you need to bend by running the neutral flame of the oxy-acetylene torch around the entire circumference of the steel pipe until it emits a low orange glow.

8

Apply pressure to the end of the steel pipe and start bending the steel pipe; keep applying heat to the bend area while you are bending the steel pipe.

9

Allow the steel pipe to cool and then remove the steel pipe from the vise.

10

Remove the duct tape from both ends of the steel pipe and tap one end of the steel pipe on the ground to remove the tamped sand from the steel pipe.

11

Use the water hose to run water through the steel pipe to remove any sand that remains in the steel pipe.

12

Wipe the pipe dry with a clean rag.

Sometimes being a trend-setter can be a curse. When they debuted, LH-chassis cars like the Intrepid and Chrysler 300M were visually cutting-edge automobiles that looked more like road-going Le Mans prototypes than commuter sedans. Time and trends may march on, but these cars remain just as good at everything they were good at when new.

Part Costs

Head gaskets themselves arent particularly expensive -- perhaps $100 for the pair at 2013 prices. Getting to them though, means tearing half the engine apart, and thats where youre spending your money in parts and labor. A full upper-end gasket set that includes the head gaskets, intake gaskets and everything else youll need to replace them will run you about $250; add another $75 at least for oil, fluids and sealants. So, call it $325 to $350 in parts.

Labor and Total Costs

Shops determine labor costs according to "book time," which is how much time a job should take for the average mechanic. Multiply that by the shops hourly rate, and youve got the labor cost for the procedure. The book time for replacing one head gasket is 7.4 to 7.9 hours, and you can expect to pay 9.4 of book time for both. Most shops currently charge $65 to $100 an hour, so labor will run you about $480 to $740 for one head gasket, and $610 to $940 for both. So, adding together parts and labor, expect to spend between $935 and $1,300 to have both head gaskets replaced.

You can access engine codes for your 1989 Volvo 240 from your home garage using an OBD I scanner. This hand-held computerized tool can be purchased from any auto parts store. The On-Board Diagnostics computer receives and stores error codes sent to it from the engine. Sensors in the engine detect malfunctions and servicing needs of the Volvo and send the error codes to the computer. The computer, in turn, illuminates the "Service Engine Soon" or "Check Engine" lights on your instrument panel. The codes can be read using an OBD I scanner. After you read the codes, this same tool can be used to reset the computer and turn off all warning lights after repairs or servicing has been accomplished.

Instructions

1

Plug the OBD I scanner into the large open port on the drivers side dashboard underneath the steering column.

2

Put the key into the ignition, and turn it to the "ACC" position, but dont crank the engine. Wait while the scanner turns on. Some scan tools have an on/off switch that needs to be turned on.

3

Select the "Read Codes" command from the scanners menu. Wait for the scanner to interface with the OBD computer. Write the engine codes it displays on a piece of paper.

4

Unplug the scanner.

Modern cars, trucks and SUVs come equipped with a variety of lights to aid in driving. Headlights, parking lights, turn signals, brake lights, tail lights and fog lights all work on the same basic principle and are only as useful as the light bulb they contain. If you notice a fog light has stopped working, the problem is almost certainly a broken bulb. This should be replaced right away.

Instructions

1

Park your vehicle in a work friendly area. It should be relatively flat and have ample light to work by. Turn of the engine and let the automobile sit for 30 minutes to completely cool down.

2

Slide underneath the front bumper of your automobile to the spot directly behind the broken fog light. Locate and remove any dust covers blocking access to the interior of the fog light assembly. Most are held on by clips or small screws.

3

Unplug the wiring harness from the back of the fog light assembly. Reach in and grasp the light bulb. Turn it to the left to remove it from the socket.

4

Insert the replacement bulb and turn it to the right to lock it in place. Plug the wiring harness back in. Replace the dust cover.

New vinyl dashboard covers give your car a new look, and are a simple way to add style. Some vinyl covers require you to remove certain components of the dashboard to complete the installation, but most only need a small amount of adhesive to keep it fastened securely in place. Vinyl covers must be positioned caully to ensure a proper fit. Avoid using too much glue as this will unnecessarily prolong the drying time and may leave bumps underneath the finished cover.

Instructions

1

Wash your cars dashboard thoroughly before applying the adhesive. Spray the dashboard with vinyl cleaner, buff the dashboard with a moist paper towel and wipe away any excess. Dry completely with a lint-free towel or cloth.

2

Line up the dash cover with your cars features caully. Once the glue sets it is very difficult to reposition your vinyl dash cover, so you will want to get it right the first time. Use a pencil to mark any areas that need to be cut or altered. Caully cut out these areas, laying the vinyl cover back on the dashboard occasionally to ensure a good fit.

3

Spray a thin layer of glue on the bottom of the cover and on the top of your dashboard. Let it dry for one minute (this will make the glue very tacky and will adhere to the dashboard more easily).

4

Lay the cover down on the dashboard. Go slowly and rub areas as you go along to ensure there are no air pockets. Check every five or six hours to ensure that the vinyl glue is setting correctly. Add a small amount of glue to any edges that fray up, and apply firm pressure to set. Keep vinyl dash cover dry and out of direct sunlight for twenty-four hours following installation.

Automobile power windows are a convenience that few motorists think about until a window stops working or leaks develop around a windows edges. While replacing a power window motor or having electrical work done to return a window to working order can be expensive, some simple power window problems can be found and repaired by the vehicle owner.

Fuses

Check the cars power window fuse. If all of a vehicles power windows stop working, the problem may be the result of a blown fuse. Many power window fuses are sized to support the windows when they are functioning at an optimal level, and if a window channels become sticky, the fuse may fail due to added strain on the electrical system. To check whether a power window fuse is broken, turn the cars ignition key to the "Run" position and try to operate a power window. If the fuse is intact, the window glass will quiver and you will hear the power window motor. If a fuse is broken, you will not hear the power window motor and the glass will not move at all. If this is the case, check the owners manual to locate the cars power window fuse so you can replace it.

Electrical System

Trace the electrical system leading to the power window. To thoroughly inspect the electrical system, you will need a 12 volt test light or voltmeter. Begin at the fuse panel and trace the wiring up to the power window switch, testing to make sure the wiring is carrying 12 volts at all times. If you find a section of wiring that does not carry 12 volts, a malfunctioning breaker or loose connection in that area will be the culprit. Replace the breaker or reconnect the wiring to restore the window to functionality.

Gaskets

If a power window is leaking, a window gasket is likely the cause. Torn or misplaced gaskets can also slow down power windows and ultimately cause them to fail. Inspect the gaskets around the window and repair loose or misplaced gaskets with special adhesives, which can be found in most auto parts stores. Adhesives may also be used to repair torn gaskets, but damaged gaskets sometimes require replacement.

A catalytic converter is an exhaust component that was put on all production cars since 1974. The job of a catalytic converter on a Pontiac Grand Prix is to burn up any left over gas that went through the engine and was left unburned. The catalytic converter uses a chemical reaction to change the unburned engine gases to less toxic gases, like carbon dioxide and water vapor. This helps cut down on the pollutants emitted, from the Grand Prix, into the atmosphere.

General Location

Because the catalytic converter is an exhaust component, it is located in the exhaust system on the underside of the Grand Prix. On the Grand Prix, the exhaust system attaches to the engine block and to the underside of the car using brackets, and then exists out the rear of the vehicle with dual exhaust tips. The converter looks like a small muffler, or rectangular box, around the middle of the exhaust pipe. The primary components of the converter are usually made out of stainless steel.

Location on the Exhaust

The catalytic converter is located between the exhaust manifold and the muffler. The exhaust manifold is a pipe that moves the engine gasses from the engines combustion chamber into the exhaust system. The muffler is a large chamber located near the end of your exhaust system that reduces the noise energy of the exhaust gasses as they exit the exhaust system.

Why Its on the Car

Toxic gasses are released when the engine in the Grand Prix runs. These gasses could cause depletion of the ozone, as well as illness or damage to the environment, if they were released without being broken down into less harmful gasses. Because the government put emission restrictions into place to slow the buildup of pollution, all cars were equipped with catalytic converters after 1974. This has cut down on the pollution being released by automobiles significantly since the government required all cars to have the converter.

Why Its in the Exhaust System

The exhaust system on the Grand Prix, just like every other car, is used to move gas from the engine out to the surrounding air. The converter is located after the exhaust manifold so that it can take the toxic engine gasses and convert them into less toxic ones before the exhaust moves into the muffler and eventually exist the rear of the Grand Prix. Without the catalytic converter within the exhaust system, exhausted toxic gases from the engine would be released into the atmosphere, causing toxic buildup.

The "speedo" gear technically ers to the speedometer gear, which is a plastic or fiber gear that runs perpendicular to the output shaft of the transmission. The gear slides onto a hexagon or square shaft connected to a flexible cable that routes to the back of the speedometer. The gears come in various sizes matched to the tire circumference to yield an accurate mechanical speed measurement. It is important to periodically check your speedometer for accuracy. Many auto shops are equipped to do this. You can also check your speedometer with a windshield-mounted global positioning satellite (GPS) system.

Instructions

Installing a Speedometer Gear

1

Place blocks behind the rear tires on a solid level surface. Engage the emergency brake.

2

Elevate the font of the vehicle by placing a jack under the front center frame of the vehicle. Insert two jack stands: one near each front wheel under the frame.

3

Slide under the vehicle to the drivers side of the transmission near the back of the tail shaft. Search for the conduit like cable housing that inserts into the tail shaft of the transmission.

4

Use a wrench to loosen and remove the small bolt that secures the clip to the transmission. Remove the clip that holds the cable and gear component into the transmission.

5

Wiggle and pull the cable until it comes out of the transmission tail shaft. Be caul not to damage the O-ring that seals the gear assembly to the transmission. After removing the speedometer gear assembly, insert a shop rag in the hole to prevent oil from leaking.

6

Slide the fiber speedometer gear off the square or hexagon cable end. Compare the new gear with the old one for similar size and configuration. Slide the new gear on the internal cable.

7

Insert the speedometer gear assembly back in the transmission. Do not damage the O-ring on the assembly or oil may leak from this component.

8

Jack up the vehicle, remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle to the ground. Remove the wheel blocks.

9

Drive the vehicle and compare the speedometer reading with that of a GPS system.

Stainless steel bolts are popular fasteners because of their strength and resistance to corrosion. While in many households bolts are tightened until they feel tight enough, industries and car mechanics require specific torque values for bolts to ensure that they are tightened enough. Depending on the bolt size, construction, fabric, and lubrication, torque specifications vary from bolt to bolt and situation to situation, and should be followed precisely.

Sizes and Threads

Bolts are identified by their sizes and threads. Screws can be as small as the number one screw, which is 1/16 of an inch or as large as the number 24, which is 3/8 of an inch for the most common screw sizes. Their threads are listed by distance between the threads and number per screw, and are listed like this: 1/4 x 20, meaning that the screw has a diameter of 1/4 of an inch and has 20 threads per inch.

Types

Stainless steel bolts come in numerous types, the most common of which are called 18-8 and 316. The 18-8 stainless steel bolt is composed of about 18 percent chromium and 8 percent nickel. These bolts are extremely corrosion resistant. The 316 stainless steel bolt, designed for industrial environments, has a higher nickel content and is austenitic (tempered for strength at low temperatures) and non-magnetic. These stainless steel bolts hold up under extreme stress and are used in heavy industry and as a part of surgical implants for humans and animals.

Torque Specifications

The 2-56 bolts are two inches in diameter with 56 threads per inch, torque to 2.5 inch-pounds for 18-8 stainless steel and to 2.6 inch-pounds for 316 stainless steel. Bolts that are 4 inches in diameter and have 40 threads per inch require 5.2 inch-pounds of torque if they are 18-8 stainless steel and 5.5 inch-pounds of torque if they are 316 stainless steel. For 18-8 stainless steel bolts with a size of 6-32, torque to 9.6 inch-pounds; for 316 stainless steel bolts of the same size, torque to 10.0 inch-pounds. The 1-14 bolts made of 18-8 stainless steel torque to 3110 inch-pounds, and those made of 316 stainless steel torque to 3250 inch-pounds.

Variations

These and other torque specifications for bolts are a starting point, but variation exists depending on the type and amount of lubrication used. If youd like to calculate your own torque, you can apply the following formula: Torque = 1.33 times the coefficient of friction times the diameter times the necessary preload, or T = K x U x D x P. Use 0.2 as the coefficient of friction for dry, or un-lubed fasteners and 0.09 for lubed ones. These are not precise values, but are acceptable averages.

To determine preload, take the established ultimate strength of your fastener (this information will be available at your hardware store), and multiply it by 2/3 to determine yield strength. Multiply the bolts thread area by the full yield strength and 2/3 to determine its preload. Once youve filled in these values, you can determine your bolts required torque.