So Fix it

The Chevrolet TrailBlazer is a sport utility vehicle that was a trim level of the Blazer from 1999 to 2001. General Motors made the Trailblazer a separate model in 2002 until the end of its production in the United States during 2008. All 2006 Trailblazers have an anti-lock braking system controlled by a microprocessor known as a brake controller, or Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM). This device adjusts the braking force to each wheel during emergencies to prevent the wheels from locking.

Instructions

1

Remove the cable from the negative terminal of the battery with a socket wrench to prevent the discharge of electricity when you remove the EBCM. Clean the area around the EBCM in the engine compartment on the driver side of the engine. This will keep the braking components from becoming contaminated.

2

Detach the connectors for the electrical wiring on the EBCM. Disconnect the four mounting screws on the EBCM with a T 25-Torx tool, and discard the screws. Pull the EBCM gently to remove it from the Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV).

3

Clean the mounting surfaces on the BPMV with a clean shop towel to avoid contaminating the new EBCM. Fasten the new EBCM to the BPMV with a T-25 Torx tool, using new mounting screws. Tighten the mounting screws to 39 inch-pounds, working in an X-pattern. Attach the electrical connectors to the EBCM.

4

Connect a scan tool to the vehicles data link connector which is under the instrument panel to the left of the steering wheel. Perform the tire size calibration function according to the scan tools instructions, and disconnect the scan tool. Connect the cable to the negative terminal on the battery using a socket wrench.

You can remove the passenger airbags from your Pontiac Grand Am. These days, airbags are considered to be essential safety features of a car. Airbags are designed to prevent head injuries during a crash, but sometimes airbags may actually cause injury, especially in children and frail people. For this reason some people may want to disengage the passenger airbags. Disengaging the airbags is a fairly easy procedure but be cautious to prevent accidental deployment.

Instructions

1

Remove the battery cables from both sides of the Grand Ams battery using a socket wrench set. Wait for 30 minutes to let the electricity drain out. This is a very important step to prevent accidental deployment of the airbags.

2

Read the Grand Ams owners manual to find the exact location of the airbag fuse. Open the fuse panel cover located on the drivers side dashboard remove the fuse pullers. Pull out the appropriate fuse.

3

Open the glove box and remove the straps that hold it open. Remove the glove box from the dash by locating the screws and unscrewing it. This will allow you to access the passenger airbag. Very caully unbolt the airbag with the socket wrench and unhook the power cable that is connected to the back of the airbag. Make sure your body and face are out of the way of the airbag at all times while you do this in case of accidental deployment. Remove the airbag from the compartment.

4

Put the glove box back in and screw the screws back in place. Reattach the straps. Put the airbag fuse back in place and close up the fuse panel cover. Reconnect the cables to the battery.

Manufactured by General Motors, the 1995 Chevrolet Caprice falls into the category of large luxury cars. The good sides of the car included anti-lock brakes (ABS), ability to tow trailers and very impressive size of cargo and passenger room. The 1995 Caprice was also equipped with Powertrain Control Module (PCM) with significantly improved drivability and fuel economy.

Measuring Ignition Timing

A timing light is used to check the timing. When the motor is running, an inductive trigger signal is picked up from one of the spark plug cables causing the light to illuminate and freeze while the spark plug fires. This helps determine the crankshaft position.

Timing Specifications

The ignition timing is completely controlled by the PCM. No timing specifications are available.

Adjustments

The base timing is preset when the engine is manufactured, no adjustment is possible. Timing advance and retard are accomplished through the PCM with ignition control (IC) and knock sensor (KS) systems.

The 2001 Toyota Camry is a four-door sedan with a front engine and front-wheel drive. The Camry was equipped with either a four or six-cylinder engine. The four-cylinder engine was a 2.2-liter in-line engine. The V-6 was 3.0 liters. Engine failure or crash damage may require a replacement engine. You can use your computer to search for a salvage yard selling a replacement engine.

Instructions

1

Open the hood on your Toyota Camry and count the number of spark plugs to determine if it is equipped with a four or six-cylinder engine.

2

Locate the vehicle identification number (VIN) plate in the lower left corner of the windshield on the drivers side of the Camry. The fifth character will be "F" if it is six-cylinder or "G" for the four-cylinder engine.

3

Locate the vehicle information plaque located on the drivers door jamb and verify the model year of the Camry is 2001.

4

Navigate to the Car-Part auto parts locator website. Enter the year, make and model of your car, and your ZIP code, and press the "Search" button.

5

Select the engine type and press the "Search" button.

6

Review the results and find an engine meeting your price, condition and location requirements.

7

Contact the supplier via email or phone to confirm the engine is available as advertised.

The best way to tow a Ford F-150 is on a flatbed truck. Because the Ford F-150 is primarily a rear-wheel drive vehicle, it presents a few unique challenges when it needs to be towed. First, a tow truck that does not have a flatbed must winch the rear wheels instead of the front wheels. The problem with this scenario is that it leaves the front wheels free to turn, potentially causing harm to the F-150 and the tow truck if the wheels suddenly turn while towing is in progress.

Instructions

1

Check that the flatbed truck is at least a medium duty truck able to support 5,500 pound or more. Explain to the tow company or the tow-truck rental company that you will be towing a F-150 and ask for a medium duty or higher weight rated tow truck.

2

Lower the flatbed of the tow truck using the flatbeds hydraulics system so that it makes a ramp. If possible, drive the Ford F-150 up the ramp and park the vehicle and engage the parking brake. If it is not possible to drive the F-150, set the truck to neutral and use the tow trucks winch to pull the F-150 onto the flatbed rear wheels first to avoid damaging the transmission.

3

Secure the truck on the back of the flatbed by connecting the tow-truck winch to the F-150 and securing the tires with chains through the wheels and locked to the sides of the flatbed and tightened down, or lock the F-150 into place using metal plates or wheel chocks. Make sure that the back of the flatbed is flat in the upright position, disengage the hydraulics, and lock the bed before driving off.

There are a few dress up kits on the market, the most common being the "Harley Sportster Chrome Customizer Kit for 91-03 XL" marketed by Tedd Cycle, Inc. of Newburgh, New York. The companys word mark is V-Twin Manufacturing. All of these dress up kits cover engine components, like the primary cover, with a thin, chromed veneer so the motorcycle will look like those components have been disassembled and custom chromed. Your kit should include a veneer for the primary cover, cam cover, transmission cover and mounting hardware. These veneers tend to discolor and they may interfere with the radiation of engine heat. They go on in 20 minutes and they come off in 20 minutes, too.

Instructions

1

Fit the Chrome Customizer primary cover veneer over the Sportsters primary cover on the left side of the motorcycle. Daub red touch up paint on the primary cover bolt heads under the 5 bolt holes in the customizer kit veneer.

2

Remove the primary cover veneer. Remove only the bolts daubed with red paint with an Allen socket and a socket wrench or breaker bar.

3

Put the bolts you remove in a plastic sandwich bag and store them in a safe and memorable place because you may want to reinstall them.

4

Fit the chrome customizer kit veneer snugly over the outer primary cover. Fasten the veneer to the primary by replacing the original bolts you just removed with the slightly longer bolts included with your Chrome Customizer Kit.

5

Tighten the bolts only wrench tight with an Allen socket and a socket wrench.

6

Repeat exactly the same procedures with the cam cover and the transmission cover on the right side of the motorcycle.

Never procrastinate when it comes to replacing burned out or defective tail lights. Your nighttime safety and the safety of your passengers depends upon other vehicles being able to see your lights from behind the car. This replacement procedure applies to the 1998 through 2003 Dodge Durango, as well as to the 1996 through 2000 Dodge Caravan, Grand Caravan, Plymouth Voyager, Grand Voyager, and Chrysler Town & Country (all these vehicles have the same tail light unit).

Instructions

1

Raise the cargo hatch of your vehicle. Locate two screws on the inside of the hatch, immediately beside the tail light unit. Unscrew these screws with a Phillips screwdriver. (Alternately, some models have two plastic pins which need to be pried out with a flathead screwdriver.)

2

Pull the tail light unit out toward the back of the car with your hands. Press the small tab that locks the two halves of the electrical connector together, and pull the connector apart. The tail light will now be separated from the car.

3

Remove the bulb cover from any burned out bulbs by screwing the cover counterclockwise with your fingers. Pull the burned out bulb straight out of the socket. Gently press a new bulb into place. Replace the bulb cover by screwing it clockwise into position.

4

Press the two halves of the electrical connector together until they lock. Press the entire tail light unit back into place in the back of the car. Fasten by screwing the two screws into place with a Phillips screwdriver (or alternately, by pressing the plastic pins into place with your fingers). Close the cargo hatch.

The outer fairing blocks the wind. The inner fairing holds the tachometer, speedometer, radio, speakers and ignition. And the fairings on all Harley-Davidson FLHs come apart the same way. The inner fairing on an FLHX is connected to the fairing bracket with pins, or what Harley calls "dowels." You literally pry the components apart with your hands. Before you can do that, you must remove the outer fairing and windshield and disconnect the electrical components. Most, but not all, of the fasteners you will need to remove are T-27 Torx screws.

Instructions

Outer Fairing and Lights

1

Protect the finish on the front of the motorcycle by hanging a throw rug over the front fender. Straddle the fender. Remove the screws in the middle, right and left of the outer fairing just under the windshield with a Torx socket and a socket wrench.

2

Put an extension on the socket, straddle the seat and remove the Torx screws just outside and below the speakers.

3

Push the handlebars all the way right and use the same wrench, extension and socket to remove the screw just below the left fairing cap. Push the handlebars all the way to the left and remove the screw under the right fairing cap.

4

Push the fairing forward far enough to reach the wiring harness connection on the back of the headlight assembly. Disconnect the headlight by squeezing the sides of the connector with your fingers.

5

Straddle the front fender again and pull the front fairing with the headlight off the motorcycle. Remove the windshield. Set the big pieces aside.

6

Disconnect the front directional signals and passing lamp connectors from the front wiring harness. Remove the passing lamp assembly from the front forks with the same socket, extension and wrench.

Inner Fairing

7

Straddle the seat again and begin to remove the ignition by turning the key left to "unlock" and turning the knob all the way right to "access."

8

Slide a small screwdriver under the left side of the knob and depress the small release button. Turn the key another 60 degrees past "unlock" and pull the knob straight up to expose the switch post and nut.

9

Remove the switch nut with an open-end wrench. Remove the socket and collar from the switch post.

10

Pull the skirt down and off the inner fairing to expose more of the front wiring harness.

11

Slacken the clutch cable by completely loosening the clutch cable adjuster nut and the clutch cable adjuster locknut with two open-end wrenches.

12

Pry the retaining ring on the bottom of the clutch lever housing loose with a small screwdriver. Pull the clutch lever pivot pin out of the top of the clutch housing.

13

Unscrew the lever clutch housing from the left handlebar with a Torx socket and socket wrench. Pull the clutch lever free from the lever housing.

14

Disconnect the clutch cable from the clutch lever and feed the cable through the grommet on the bottom of the inner fairing to the front of the bike.

15

Fashion a matchbook cover into a cardboard shim that is between 1/8 inch and 5/32 inch thick. Put the shim between the front brake lever and housing to protect the stoplight switch.

16

Loosen the right handlebar switch housing screws and front master cylinder screws with a Torx socket and a socket wrench. Remove the switch housing and master cylinder.

17

Slide the throttle off the right end of the handlebar and remove the two throttle cables. Feed the throttle cables through the grommet on the bottom of the inner fairing to the front of the bike.

18

Disconnect the cigarette lighter from the wiring harness. Straddle the fender again and loosen the speaker adapter screws on both sides of the bike with a Torx socket and socket wrench.

19

Remove the speaker adapters. Disconnect the voltmeter and fuel gauge from the front wiring harness.

20

Pull the lower inner fairing off the mounting dowels on the fork bracket. Pull the fairing bracket off the mounting dowels on the fork bracket.

21

Lift the fairing bracket and inner fairing together to clear the fork bracket. Pull the inner fairing and fairing bracket apart and remove the inner fairing.

A head gasket is set between the engine block and the cylinder heads, maintaining compression within the combustion chamber and stopping the coolant from leaking into the engine cylinders. This part needs to be replaced if you see white colored smoke coming out of your tailpipe. This is caused when coolant blows by the gasket and burns in the cylinders during combustion. If you need to replace your head gasket, you should know the steps to proper installation.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal and drain out your cooling system. Be certain the coolant does not enter the cylinders during head gasket replacement.

2

Jack up the front end of your car and place it on jack stands.

3

Remove cylinders head bolts and lift the head off the engine. Remove the old head gasket and clean the area where the new gasket will be placed.

4

Inspect the head before you install the new gasket. Place the new gasket on the exact same head where the old gasket was housed.

5

Push the corners of the gasket in firmly. Pay special attention to where the cam journals go to be certain the gasket fits around all of the components. If you cannot obtain a tight seal use a room temperature vulcanant, or RTV, on each corner of the cam journals.

The 2002 Audi Quattro wagon is an Avant or estate version of the A4, which is a high end Passat. Within the Volkswagen Auto Group (VAG) Audi is the mass luxury brand -- Lamborgini and Bugatti are the top tiers of luxury. THe Quattro system is Audis famed all-wheel drive system that enabled Audi to rise to the top of the luxury market after BMWs rear-wheel drive system became less popular. The trunk panel can need removal if it has become damaged or if you want to access the wiring underneath.

Instructions

1

Park your 2002 Audi Quattro wagon somewhere with room around the rear of the car. Make sure the emergency brake is on before you turn the engine off and pull the trunk release latch. Get out of the car and empty out the rear of the car so you have room to work in.

2

Unscrew the eight Philips head screws that secure the bottom of the trunk panel to the rear hatch. Make sure to keep the screws as replacement Audi parts are a lot more expensive then most other car manufacturers, even though they are just regular Volkswagen parts in most cases. Unscrew the four Philips head screws on the top part of the panel. The panel wont come out now, it is still held in place by pressure.

3

Pry the panel off the rear hatch with a flathead screwdriver. Push the flathead into the seam and work it along the seam line. Once the panel is standing out all along the edge, then pull the panel off by hand. Place the panel somewhere safe as it can be broken if stepped on. If you are replacing the panel then just follow the removal procedure in reverse.

Ford Motor Co., started by Henry Ford in 1903, is based in Dearborn, Michigan. Ford makes trucks, standard cars and sports utility vehicles (SUVs). Air conditioning in cars has been around since the 1940s, but it took a while for it to catch on. The original air conditioners used R-12 rigerant, but R-134a replaced it in 1995. R-134a is more environmentally friendly. If the air conditioning goes out on your vehicle, you can purchase the tools needed to help you remove and repair your AC.

Ford Spring Lock

The Ford Spring Lock Coupling Tool Set is a set of four tools that allow you to separate the spring lock air conditioning rigerant pressure lines. The rigerant pressure lines are between the fan coil unit and the condensing unit in the air conditioning. This toolset is for Ford and Chrysler vehicles, and the manufacturer part number is MTC-9300. The set includes the MTC-93098, which is 3/8 inches in size, and it is red. The MTC-93100 is 5/8 inches in size and is black, and the MTC-93099 is inch in size and blue. The MTC-93101 is inches and is beige. These tools are only meant for separating the air conditioning rigerant pressure lines from the spring lock. They hold the two pieces apart so that you can access and work on the air conditioning. The size ers to the mechanism that each tool fits. All of these tools are spring-loaded, and the set costs between $28.22 and $34.20 in 2010.

KD Tools KDS3290

The KD Tools KDS3290 Fuel Line and Air Conditioning Disconnect Tool. The tool has four sides, and it can release different sized mechanisms, including inch, inch, 3/8 inch and 5/8 inch. This tool allows you to manipulate the spring lock couplings on most Ford vehicles. To use it, turn off the engine and release the system pressure before you start disconnecting the coupling. This is a metal tool that crosses in the middle and is connected with a bolt. The ends have curved cut-outs on each side. The manufacturer part number is KDT3290, and it costs between $12.00 and $14.00 in 2010.

AST 8110

The AST 8110 Specialty Tool Line Disconnect kit is made by Assenmacher. The product number for this tool is AH8110 DLT, and the price ranges from $90.00 to $140.00 in 2010. The kit consists of 10 pieces. You can use these tools on Nissan and Ford vehicles; the -inch oil cooler line remover is specifically for newer Ford vehicles. The kit comes with a carrying case, and each tool is color coded. Tools in the case include a special line remover, oil cooler line remover, line disconnect tool, fuel line remover, GM fuel filter removal tool and fuel filter remover. The tools are made of anodized aluminum.

The wiper arm on the 2001 Chevy K1500 series truck slides onto the wiper motor drive shaft as it extends out of the cowling of the truck, just below the windshield. Removing the arm for replacement of the arm or to allow repairs near the arm will only take a couple minutes. Replacement arms are available from the Chevy dealer network or a used arm may be available from a salvage yard. If the tension spring on the arm has come loose or breaks, a new spring can be installed after removing the arm from the truck.

Instructions

1

Locate the retaining nut on the end of the wiper arm where it meets the wiper motor on the truck. Place a socket over the nut and use a ratchet to turn the socket and nut counterclockwise.

2

Remove the nut from the stud and set it aside. Lift the wiper arm from the blade end until the wiper arm is vertical. The arm will lock into this position.

3

Place a flat screwdriver under the wiper arm between the arm and the wiper motor. Slowly pry the arm off the splined shaft of the wiper motor, being caul not to damage the arm or truck with the screwdriver.

The engine light codes, also known as diagnostic trouble codes, on a KIA Optima are designed to provide information about a specific failure or malfunction on the vehicle. These alpha-numeric codes are created by the engine control module and then stored in memory where they can be retrieved at a later date with a scan tool. These codes begin with the letter P and are followed by a four digit number sequence. Each code corresponds to a specific problem that can be identified by using a service repair manual. Most factory repair manuals provide a flow chart that technicians can use to diagnose and correct the problem that triggered the code.

Instructions

1

Turn the engine off, but rotate the ignition switch to the ON position. The dashboard must have power in order for the scan tool to communicate with the ECM.

2

Find the Optimas diagnostic data terminal and plug the scan tool into the terminal. On most Optimas, the terminal is underneath the front edge of the dashboard on the drivers side of the vehicle. In some models, it is under the front edge of the dashboard, but mounted vertically on the right side of pedal area.

3

Turn on the scan tool, then navigate to the DTCs menu. Command the scan tool to read and display the current DTCs stored in the ECMs memory.

4

Write down the codes displayed on the scan tools screen, then disconnect the scan tool and turn off the ignition.

5

Visit your local library and look up the code in the Optimas service manual. Make copies of the code description and the diagnostic flow chart.

Rear bumper dents happen after accidents, and are often difficult to remove. Sometimes the dents are pounded or pulled out with heat. Fixing a dent at home is less expensive than taking the car to a body shop for repair. The entire bumper is frequently replaced if the dent is too severe.

Instructions

1

Wash the dented area of the bumper. Remove all dust, dirt and debris.

2

Turn on the hairdryer; move it in a circular motion over the dent. Do not leave the hairdryer in one spot for more than a few seconds. The dent might pop out after a few minutes.

3

Tap the area around the dent with a hammer. Do not create new dents by hammering too hard. The tapping creates vibration; the combination of vibration and heat frequently pops out dents.

4

Move the hair dryer in a circular motion while lightly hammering. Do this for 10 minutes and the dent might pop out. Repeat the process if the dent remains unaltered.

If your "check engine" light is on in your Honda, you should have the engine checked by a qualified mechanic. But after the car has been checked and possibly repaired, you will want to have that light off. Also, if you are taking your Honda to have a state emission test, you will want to have the light turned off so the car can pass emissions. The check engine light is not the same as the "maintenance required" light, which automatically comes on at set mileage to remind you a factory-recommended service interval has been reached. Sometimes when the check engine light comes on, for whatever cause, the light doesnt go off when the cause is rectified. You can turn it off yourself.

Instructions

1

Located the fuse box panel cover on the side of the dashboard. Open the panel by pulling down on the top.

2

Look for a sticker on the back of the fuse panel cover that shows the list of all the fuses and how they are arranged. Find the "clock" fuse, which is probably fuse 13. Remove it using the fuse puller. If you dont have a fuse puller, you can pull it out with tweezers.

3

Wait about 30 minutes, then put the fuse back in place. This will reset the check engine light and turn it off.

Cat-back (a.k.a. "catalytic converter back") exhaust systems are a popular add-on for enthusiasts seeking an increase in horsepower, fuel economy and torque. Additionally, these systems can add personality to any car by making the exhaust note deeper, louder and overall more aggressive. The fact that cat-back exhaust systems do not affect emissions in any way has made them a universally accepted mod in every state in the union.

Definition

An exhaust system has between five and eight basic parts, depending on the car. The system starts at the exhaust manifold(s) or header(s), which combine the exhaust output of the individual cylinders into one port (called a "collector"). The collector can connect to a mid-pipe (which links the manifold and converter) or can feed directly into the converter itself. Everything after that is the cat-back portion, which includes the crossover (on dual-exhaust, V-configured engines), the main tube section and the muffler(s). Some exhaust systems use one or more small intermediary mufflers (called "resonators") in the main pipe to deepen and smooth the exhaust note.

Power Benefits

When it comes to the cat-back, most original equipment manufacturers (OEMs) put far more emphasis on noise level and production cost than engine note and performance. The original pipes (especially on older cars) are often too small to allow exhaust to flow as freely as it could, and stock mufflers can be a significant impediment to exhaust flow. Almost any cat-back system will enhance power, torque over a stock system. These benefits can range from 1 to 2 horsepower on four cylinders to 30 to 40 on large engines with restrictive exhausts.

Fuel Economy

With all the emphasis manufacturers place on fuel economy, it might seem surprising that they dont just install larger exhaust systems in the first place. Cat-back systems help the engine to run more efficiently, which is always good for at least a small boost in fuel economy. Turbodiesel engines generally stand to gain the most; 10 percent improvements in fuel efficiency are not unheard of when used with a freer-flowing air filter.

Design

Aftermarket cat-back systems are generally made of large and free-flowing "mandrel bent" tubing, which doesnt have the flow-inhibiting kinks that most stock systems do. Many dual exhaust systems incorporate an X-pipe crossover to balance exhaust flow for increased horsepower and a smoother-sounding exhaust note. You have a choice of higher flowing fiberglass or steel-packed mufflers (such as those that originally came in the car) or "chambered" mufflers that often yield a quieter and lower exhaust note.

Sound

Although you might be tempted to buy the thinnest and lightest exhaust system on the market, youll probably regret it. Engines (particularly small ones) produce a whole spectrum of high-frequency sound, which vibrates the system and causes it to act like a giant speaker. This "drone" sounds bad and is certain to drive you insane with migraines. Thicker, larger diameter pipes will contain the exhausts high frequency sound and promote propagation of more pleasing low-frequency soundwaves.

The exhaust system on a truck helps to direct the exhaust gases away from the engine bay and safely out the rear of the vehicle. Since exhaust gases coming out of the engine are extremely hot, its best to work on the exhaust system only after the truck has completely cooled down. Over time, most exhaust systems---unless they are stainless steel---will rust or corrode, especially if you live in the northern hemisphere, due to the corrosive nature of the salt and sand that is frequently spread across the roads in winter months to melt ice and snow. Once the rust or corrosion happens, youll have to take off the exhaust system. But youll also need to know how to install an exhaust on a truck.

Instructions

1

Place the new exhaust system on top of the jack stands so that the entire exhaust is raised off the ground. If your truck does not sit high enough off the ground, youll need to simply rest the exhaust system on the ground while you work. Make sure the exhaust is oriented so that the catalytic converter or converters are toward the front of the vehicle and the muffler is toward the rear.

2

Slide the exhaust system onto the hangers underneath the truck that are attached to the body. The hangers are composed of a metal hook with a rubber loop. The new exhaust will have a metal hook also. Youll need to slide the metal hook on the exhaust system through the rubber loop attached to the bodys metal hooks.

3

Install the O2 sensors into the exhaust using the O2 sensor tool and socket wrench. The O2 sensor will thread into the exhaust like a bolt, and youll need to turn it clockwise to tighten.

4

Plug the electrical connectors into the O2 sensor(s).

5

Place a gasket over the end of the exhaust piping, and bolt the exhaust piping to the exhaust manifold on the engine.

6

Turn on the truck and check for any exhaust leaks. You will be able to visibly see any exhaust gases leaking from the connection at the exhaust manifold. If there is a leak, separate the exhaust piping from the manifold, and readjust the gasket or replace it with a new gasket.

Many different tools are necessary for efficient auto upholstery repair. The exact tools youll need can depend on the job itself, since different tools are needed for replacing door upholstery versus changing the fabric on a whole full backseat. Many of these tools come in sets or packs for the do-it-yourselfer, but individual tools can be bought separately, as well.

Upholstery Remover

Upholstery removers are manufactured to be used on doors, and the regular upholstery on the seats themselves. This tool looks like a screwdriver, with an open "U" shape at the end instead of a flat end. The upholstery remover can be used for undoing stitches, and also for dealing with upholstery designs that have hog rings (essentially a thin piece of metal) where the stitching is tightened up. Car door upholstery removers are designed to specifically deal with the panels and other design issues unique to doors.

Upholstery Tucking Tool

Anyone looking to install new upholstery while repairing or restoring an old vehicle must acquire the right upholstery tucking tools to get the job done. These tools are designed specifically for taking new upholstery cuts and tucking the upholstery tightly in behind panels. These tools look a lot like special ice scrapers for car windows, but are designed to tighten and tuck away the upholstery so the repaired seats or door panels look like new.

Upholstery Clip Pliers

A major part of repairing or restoring upholstery is taking care of the upholstery clips, especially when dealing with the door panels. Upholstery clip pliers allow individuals to remove panel clips without damaging them, which makes full restoration much easier. This tool allows the undamaged panel clips to be used after the new upholstery is put in, so the panels are all completely restored.

Saab began equipping its regular production cars with turbochargers as early as the 1960s. In 1989 General Motors purchased Saab as a counter to the acquisition of Volvo by Ford Motor Company. For the 1993 production year, all Saab models were GM platforms, and the turbochargers in the their engines were as reliable as most other brands. However, in a vehicle this old, the unit might need replacing due a number of factors.

Instructions

1

Park the vehicle in an area away from traffic and engage the emergency brake. Open the hood and disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery.

2

Place drop cloths over the front fenders to protect them from scratches. Remove the engine cover from the top of the engine by hand. The turbocharger is located between the air inlet pipe and the engine. Unplug the air mass sensor from the side of the turbocharger, it unplugs by hand. Unscrew the O-ring clamp from the air inlet pipe and then pull the pipe off the turbocharger intake. Unbolt the three bolts on the down pipe from the rear of the turbocharger

3

Unbolt the two bolts that secure the turbocharger to the exhaust manifold. Then unbolt the single bolt on the steady arm on the side of the turbocharger. Remove the turbocharger and place it to the side. Slide in the new turbocharger and install the exhaust manifold bolts. Then install the steady arm and the down pipe and attach with bolts. Plug in the air mass sensor and screw the O-ring onto the air intake.

4

Reconnect the cable to the negative terminal on the battery and close the hood. Turn the Saab back on and take it for a test drive. The turbocharger may at first register lower rpm readings, but that is normal because the bearings are new.

If you have allowed your Chevy Blazer time to warm up but still do not feel any heat in the passenger compartment there is a good chance that you have a faulty heater core. Because the heater core is located against the firewall, many mechanics charge quite a bit of labor for this repair. If you want to save the majority of the repair estimate, this is a job that you can complete yourself in about an hour.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the battery cable from the negative terminal on your Blazers battery. You need to do this any time you are completing a repair on your vehicle to reduce the chance of receiving an electrical shock.

2

Place a bucket under the radiator and drain the coolant from the cooling system. Typically, the drain plug is located at the bottom center of the radiator.

3

Remove the coolant hoses leading from the heater core to the engine. These are on the engine compartment side of the heater core. Plug the tubes of the heater core with a shop rag to reduce the chances of spilling coolant inside the vehicle when you remove the heater core.

4

Remove the heater core case located inside the passenger compartment. This case is located under the dashboard, just to the right of center of the vehicle. To do this, turn the screws connecting the heater core cover to the cowl counterclockwise and remove them.

5

Remove the support brackets from the heater core and remove the core from the passenger compartment side of the firewall.

6

Install the new heater core into the firewall. Be caul when you insert the tubes through the firewall so you dont bend them.

7

Install the support brackets and the heater core cover. Replace all of the retaining screws and turn them clockwise to secure.

8

Connect all hoses leading from the engine to the heater core inside the engine comparment, fill the radiator with coolant and reconnect the negative battery terminal.

The service engine light illuminates on your 2006 Chevrolet when it is time to have a regularly scheduled oil change or tune up. The OBD, or On-Board Diagnostics computer, stores the codes from the vehicles sensors. An OBD scanner tool can be used to read the codes and tell you exactly what is wrong with the vehicle. You can purchase an OBD scanner and do this yourself at home or you can take your car to your local auto parts retailer and they will scan and diagnose it for you for free. Either way, make sure you have the servicing done to your vehicle before you reset the service engine light. If not, the light will just keep coming back on.

Instructions

1

Pop the hood of the Chevy and loosen the nut that keeps the negative battery cable clamp in place on the negative side of the battery. This is known as the retaining nut. Remove the cable clamp from the terminal.

2

Wait at least 15 minutes. Put the clamp back on the negative side of the terminal. Always take care to never allow the negative cable clamp to touch the positive side of the battery terminal.

3

Put the key into the ignition and start the engine. Look on the dash board to see that the service engine light has turned off. If not, repeat the above steps again. Sometimes you have to do it several times for the light to turn off.

The Chrysler Concorde, also known as the sister car to the more popular Dodge Intrepid, came from the factory with two V-6 engine options; a 2.7-liter engine and a more-powerful 3.5-liter engine. Of the two engines, the 3.5-liter engine was noted for its increased reliability over the smaller engine, which was prone to oil sludge problems. To help control and monitor the engine temperature, the 3.5-liter engine contains a coolant temperature sensor, located on the thermostat housing at the front of the engine.

Instructions

1

Start the engine and allow it warm to operating temperature, which is 200-degrees Fahrenheit.

2

Locate the coolant temperature sensor on the top of the thermostat housing. Its mounted vertically and has two wires protruding from its base.

3

Disconnect the coolant temperature sensors two-wire electrical connector. Measure the resistance across the sensors two terminals with a digital multimeter; the specified value is 700 to 1,000 Ohms.

4

Let the engine cool down for three to four hours until the coolant is at room temperature. Measure the resistance again across the terminals with a digital multimeter. The resistance at 70-degrees Fahrenheit should be between 7,000 and 13,000 Ohms. If the resistance falls outside either of the hot or cold values, the sensor must be replaced.

5

Measure the resistance across the pin terminals on the sensors electrical connector. If the resistance is greater than 1 Ohm, replace the sensors connector.

During the life of your Trailblazer, the bulbs in the headlight may burn out and need to be replaced. In order to replace these bulbs, the headlight assembly needs to be removed from the front of the vehicle. Removing the headlight assembly allows you to access the bulbs, which are connected to the sockets on the electrical connectors. Before starting this project, the bulbs will need to be purchased from an auto supply store.

Instructions

1

Open the drivers side door and pull the hood release lever to release the hood. Lift the hood up and set the support bar.

2

Find the snap clips that are used to secure the grill to the front of the vehicle. Pry the retainer clips with the flat head screwdriver to release them. Pull the grill off of the vehicle.

3

Find the retainer clip that is located in the upper left or right of the headlight. Push up on the retainer clip with the flat head screwdriver. Look under the fender, beneath the headlight, and locate the second retainer clip. Push this retainer clip up with the screwdriver.

4

Press the release tab that is on the back of the headlight assembly. Pull the electrical connector out of the headlight. Pull the headlight assembly out and set it on a bench or table.

5

Pull off the two rubber caps on the back of the headlight assembly to expose the headlight bulbs. Turn the socket counterclockwise and pull the bulb out of the headlight. Lift up the tab on the electrical harness and then pull the bulb out of the socket.

6

Insert a new bulb into the socket and then place the bulb back into the headlight. Turn the socket to the right or clockwise to lock it in place. Set the rubber caps back in place over the electrical connector.

7

Set the headlight back in place and then reconnect the electrical connector. Push the upper and lower retainer clips back in place to secure the headlight.

8

Set the grill back in place and then push on it firmly to secure the retainer clips to the frame.

The Service Engine Light on your BMW 3 Series is monitored and controlled by the Engine Control Module or ECM. It keeps track of all routine maintenance and servicing requirements of your BMW. When this light illuminates, you should have your BMW serviced before attempting to manually reset the light. The best way to reset it is to use a computerized scan tool obtained from your local auto parts retailer. This tool can be purchased or borrowed for free from most auto parts stores.

Instructions

1

Put the key into the ignition and turn the vehicle to the "on" position but dont start the engine.

2

Find the diagnostic port under the drivers side dashboard near the pedals. Plug the computerized scan tool into this port. The battery from the vehicle will automatically power on the tool.

3

Find arrows on the faceplate of the scan tool and use them to scroll through the menu until you find the "Read All Codes" command. Select this command.

4

Scroll through the menu again and find "Clear All Codes." Select this option then wait for the service engine light to shut off.

5

Turn off the vehicle and wait five minutes. Start the engine and verify that the check engine light is still off.

Replacing the serpentine belt on your 1990 Silverado pickup will help prevent an accidental belt failure when you least expect it. The belt turns every accessory on the front of the engine, including the water pump and alternator. If the belt breaks, the truck will overheat and lose electrical power for the ignition system. Check the belt for damage every time you change the oil in your truck. Replace the belt at the first sign of a problem.

Instructions

1

Raise the hood of your truck and prop it open. Locate the negative cable on the battery. Remove the retaining bolt with a wrench. Lift the cable off the terminal and set it aside.

2

Locate the serpentine belt tensioner on the front of the engine. Place a socket and breaker bar on the tensioner center bolt. Rotate it counterclockwise to loosen the belt. Remove the belt. Rotate the tensioner back to the home position. Discard the old belt.

3

Install a new belt over the pulleys on the front of the engine. Leave it off the tensioner for now. Routing the belt correctly is important, so check the diagram on the radiator support under the hood to verify the belt path.

4

Rotate the tensioner counterclockwise with the breaker bar and socket. Install the belt over the tensioner pulley and rotate the tensioner clockwise to tighten the belt. Remove the socket and breaker bar from the engine compartment.

5

Reattach the negative cable to the negative battery terminal. Reattach the retaining bolt and tighten it with a wrench. Close the hood of the truck.

Repairing problems in any car can be time consuming and frustrating when a person doesnt know the accouterments which make the cars year and model unique. While some car manuals can be used as reference even when the car year is different, it is always helpful to find information about the specific car in question. A good way to approach any repair questions is to peruse knowledgeable sites as well as the car manual.

Instructions

1




Start by going to the Free Online Auto Repair website. At the top of the page near the logo, click on "Troubleshooting Guide". On the next page near the top, right click on "Nissan". On the new page click "Nissan Altima" from the list of Nissan models. This link leads to the part of the auto repair site that is devoted to solving or repairing Altima problems. Go through the sections and see if there is any information that may help in figuring out how to repair a 1993 Nissan Altima.

2




Get a repair manual for the 1993 Nissan Altima. While there are a few places which allow manual downloads, one in particular is the Auto Repair Manuals website. Type "1993 Nissan Altima" into the search box located at the top left of the page. When the search results come up, click on "1993 - 2006 Nissan Altima, Haynes Repair Manual". This link will bring up a page that allows this product to be purchased. There are also some free websites which may have the manual as well.

3




Talk to someone who has considerable knowledge in working on cars. Some car repair shops can do a paid general look-through of the car in order to determine what the problem is. It may also be helpful to seek out people experienced in car repair that fix their own vehicles. Even though their specialty may not be the 1993 Nissan Altima model, their familiarity with cars in general may be enough to isolate the problem and start repairs.

4

Compare all the resources gathered and use them to repair the problem at hand.

Subaru is a Japanese company that started manufacturing the Foresters back in 1997. The on-board diagnostics computer will illuminate the "Check Engine" light on the instrument cluster when it detects a malfunction from one of the sensors in the emissions system or in the engine. You need a scan tool to read the trouble code generated by the computer. This tool can be obtained from any auto parts store. Once the code has been read and the problem fixed, you may still need to reset the light and shut off the "Check Engine" light. This can be done without the use of any special tools and it should only take you about 10 minutes to complete the task.

Instructions

1

Find the fuse panel cover on the drivers side dashboard and pull it open with your fingers.

2

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to "Run."

3

Locate and remove the fuse pullers within the fuse panel. Look on the inside of the fuse panel cover and locate the ECU fuse. Pull this fuse out of the fuse box using the fuse pullers.

4

Wait about five minutes and the put the ECU fuse back in place.

5

Turn the vehicle on and verify that the "Check Engine" light has shut off.

General Motor Companys 2003 Envoy has been the subject of multiple recalls. Manufacturing defects have affected the front brakes, windshield wipers and theft protection of some 2003 GMC Envoy vehicles. Registered vehicle owners affected by these recalls should have been notified by mail and provided with instructions on where to bring the SUV for a free repair.

Brake Pipe

General Motors recalled 44,653 model year 2003 SUVs, including the Envoy, for a manufacturing defect that caused the brake pipe to fracture in some vehicles and reduce front brake performance, thereby increasing the risk of a crash.

Windshield Wipers

The 2002 and 2003 Envoy and Envoy XLS were among 581,394 model year vehicles that General Motors recalled to repair windshield wipers that malfunctioned or ceased to work altogether due to a short circuit.

Theft Protection

General Motors recalled 511,167 SUVs, including the 2003 Envoy, for failure to comply with federal motor vehicle standards. According to National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), these Envoys were equipped with a mechanical override that may have allowed the ignition key to be taken out of the shift lever when the vehicle was not parked. Additionally, the override may have allowed the transmission to be shifted out of park with the ignition in the "Off" position.

If you are driving down the road in your Chevy Tahoe and you notice a light on the dash for "tire failure" or "low tire pressure" you might become alarmed. Today more and more vehicles are being manufactured with tire pressure monitor systems called TPMS. The TPMS was designed for driving safety because most people never take the time to even look at their tires or check the air pressure. Low air pressure in a tire is the leading cause of tire failure and can lead to accidents. If you have a TPMS monitor that is not working properly, you can troubleshoot it with a few easy steps.

Instructions

1

Walk around your Tahoe and look at each tire to see if one of them looks low.

2

Slide the air pressure gauge over each valve stem to check each tire and make sure that it is inflated to the proper psi. The proper psi is noted on the car door. Never go by the maximum inflation noted on the tire. You must always go by what is indicated on the car door. Improper inflation will cause the TPMS unit to flag a problem.

3

Take your TPMS computer scanner out of the box and become familiar with the settings. You will need to push the buttons on the front to find your make and model of car. Press the button to enter the scan mode and walk around to each tire. Press the button at each tire until you get an indication that the scanner cannot find the TPMS unit. This is the unit that needs to be changed.

Jeep introduced the Wrangler model in 1987 and continued the YJ version until 1995. The door panel on the 1994 Jeep Wrangler can be removed to access the interior components of the door. Speakers and door lock assemblies often need maintenance, and removing the door panel is the only way to access them. The panel in each model-year of Jeep Wrangler is identical and removed the same way.

Instructions

1

Remove the two Phillips head screws that hold the interior door handle in place. There is a screw at each end of the handle.

2

Remove the Phillips head screw on the door handle lock mechanism.

3

Pry off the plastic panel from the metal surround with a flat head screwdriver. Place the screwdriver between the plastic panel and the metal door and slide it in between until each plastic clip has been removed. Work around the door in a clockwise fashion until the panel is removed.

4

Disconnect the locking rods from the interior door handle. The locking rods connect to the handle and need to be pulled up through the bracket manually to be removed.

5

Remove the panel and place it on a flat surface. If the panel needs to be re-installed, do so in the reverse order of removal.

Car batteries drain when the car is off and electrical components are still being utilized. If your Hyundai Veracruzs car battery has been drained, it is possible that it may lack the charge to turn the engine on. Jump starting the car with the use of another functioning car is an ideal solution when a battery charger is not readily available.

Instructions

1

Position the cars close to each other so that they jumper cables can easily reach the terminals on both batteries. Make sure that the cars do not touch each other and the charged battery on the functioning car is a 12 volt battery.

2

Turn off all electrical devices and components to keep the electrical consumption to a minimum. Do not turn on the headlights under any circumstance as they consume too much electricity.

3

Clamp one end of the red, positive jumper cables to the discharged batterys positive "+" terminal, then clamp the other end to the positive "+" terminal on the charged battery.

4

Clamp one end of the black, negative cable to the charged batterys negative "-" terminal, then the other end to a solid, non-moving metallic point in the Veracruz. Be sure not to connect it to any fuel lines or any parts that move when the engine starts.

5

Turn the functioning car on and rev its engine to 2,000 RPM. Wait a few moments and start the Veracruzs engine. Remove the negative and positive jumper cables from both cars.

As the key component in a vehicles emissions control system (and some machinery as well), catalytic converters are responsible for turning tons of potentially harmful exhaust emissions into harmless carbon dioxide. Until the early 1990s, the catalyst supports in these systems were almost entirely ceramic. Recently, however, metal supports are slowly beginning to replace ceramic as the material of choice. There are a number of reasons for this continuing shift in the industry, many of which have to do with the elemental properties of metal vs. ceramic.

How the Catalytic Process Works

To better understand the differences in metal and ceramic catalyst supports, it is necessary to first appreciate how catalysts and the catalytic converters they are housed in function. As carbon monoxide and other harmful gases are passed through an exhaust system, heat produces a chemical reaction with "catalysts" housed in the converter. The result of this reaction is the dangerous gases are cleaned and converted to harmless carbon dioxide before being admitted into the atmosphere.

Thermal Properties

One of the most significant differences in metal and ceramic catalysts are the superior thermal properties of metal. Because harmful gases like carbon monoxide are converted only when high temperatures are reached, the more quickly the engine warms, the more efficient is the conversion of gases. Also, metals improved heat conductivity does not take as long as a ceramic catalyst to reach high temperatures, which allows for a more uniform transfer of heat through the system.

Mounting Placement

Metal catalysts allow the converter to be mounted closer to the engine, increasing heat flow. This is particularly important in cold conditions, when the engine, and subsequently the catalytic converter, take longer to warm up. This closer placement also results in less vibration, backflow of gases and pressure drop (as much as 15 to 30 percent less) than comparable ceramic catalysts.

Manufacturing Process

Metal catalysts are made via a production process prior to the assembly of the converter, so they can be easily changed or adapted if needed. The manufacturer simply needs to change the shape of the "cell" support. Ceramic, on the other hand, is much less flexible to change dimensions. From a manufacturing perspective, both metal and ceramic catalysts are priced about the same. The distinction is in the performance and enhanced efficiencies that metal provides.

General Motors manufactured its modern LT1 engine from 1992 to 1997. This eight-cylinder 5.7-liter engine appears in many high-performance cars from General Motors during this period, such as the Chevrolet Corvette. The harmonic balancer, or crankshaft balancer, in the LT1 engine is a disc-shaped weight on the end of the crankshaft. Its function is to stabilize the rotation of the crankshaft, which prevents the crankshaft from failing at speeds.

Instructions

1

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal with a socket wrench. This prevents anyone from unintentionally starting the engine. Remove the air intake duct from the engine to access the crankshaft.

2

Raise the vehicle, and support it on jack stands. Disconnect the nuts from the engine mount with a socket wrench. Remove the cooler for the power steering fluid from the engine compartment.

3

Place a screw jack under the engine, and raise the engine slightly to access the crankshaft balancer. Remove the retaining bolts for the crankshaft balancer with a socket wrench. Attach a puller to the crankshaft balancer, and pull the balancer from the crankshaft.

4

Mount the new crankshaft balancer to the crankshaft, and tighten its mounting bolts to 60 foot-pounds with a torque wrench.

5

Lower the engine with the screw jack, and connect the cooler for the power steering fluid with a socket wrench. Fasten the nuts for the engine mount to 40 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Lower the vehicle with the floor jack. Connect the air intake duct and negative battery cable.

The intake manifold is the part of your engine that distributes combustion substance and/or air consistently throughout the intake ports on your cylinder heads. Without the intake manifold, your engines performance would suffer, and you would lose engine efficiency. One company that makes intake manifolds is Motor Parts (Mopar), a subsidiary of the Chrysler Group LLC. It makes intake manifolds for Ram, Jeep, Chrysler and Dodge vehicles, but you can only purchase them from authorized dealers.

Mopar 426

The Mopar 426 Hemi Crate Engine gives you up to 486 foot-pounds of torque, and it comes with a dual quad intake manifold. The intake manifold in this engine is made of aluminum, making it fairly light. It is designed for race cars or for those who just want more road power. This manifold also has a dual plane M1, and you can convert this manifold so that its compatible with AVC carburetors. It is, however, already compatible with large port and Holley carburetors. The engine gives you up to 465 horsepower, and horsepower generally equals between 735.5 and 750 watts. The Mopar website indicates that this engine is an updated version of the 426 design, but the new design provides you with a more efficient and potent engine.

Six Pack

The Six Pack intake manifold is for 413, 440 and 426W engines. It is made of aluminum, and it features high torque and horsepower, allowing you to go from the idle position to approximately 6,000 revolutions per minute. It is a dual plane intake manifold and has rectangular ports. These ports allow you to use this intake manifold for both small and large applications. According to the Mopar website, you can use this intake manifold for both "street and strip applications."

Cross Ram

The Max Wedge Cross Ram Intake Manifold works with any type of RB engine that uses the Max Wedge cylinder heads, especially the Dodge Ram. This manifold is made of aluminum, and it is a single plane M1 type of manifold. The Max Wedge Cross Ram Intake Manifold increases the total airflow through the manifold by nearly 20 percent, according to the Mopar website. The makers of this manifold designed it to work with all types of Holley 850 cubic feet per minute carburetors that have a 2-1/8 inch exhaust header. According to the Mopar website, this intake manifold also increases your engines power, and the engine provides you with 505 horsepower.

Tie Rods Must be Tight Enough to be Safe

A tie rod is a thin stuctural rod with a threaded end that connects the steering system to the wheels. The connection at the end of the rod (the tie rod end) should be at least as strong as the rod itself. After bolting the end of the tie rod you should have it at least tight enough to fit the cotter pin in the first hole ( about 25 to 30 pounds on a torque wrench) to prevent the bolt from coming loose.

Count The Threads

According to McLaines Tire and Alignment in Malone, New York, you should count the threads when removing the old tie rod and tighten the new one down to the same place. This means that your steering will have the same feel as before the job was done.

Bottom Line

A tie rod that is too tight will make your steering feel very sticky, and you will feel like you are wrestling with your car. A tie rod that is too loose means that you car will wander all over the road. 25 pounds on a torque wrench will give you fluid control without wandering off line.

You should replace the windshield on your 98 Chevy Silverado 1500 when it has a crack in it that is longer than 6 inches. Cracks of that length compromise the integrity of the windshield. You may also wish to replace your windshield if it has chips and smaller cracks in it because these may eventually grow in size. Besides protecting you from debris, a windshield can help keep you from being thrown from your Chevy in the event of an accident. The windshield also helps the airbags deploy properly and it prevents the roof from caving in if the vehicle rolls over. If you can find a windshield from a 1998 Chevy Silverado 1500 thats in good condition from an auto wrecking yard, you will probably save yourself some money.

Instructions

1

Unscrew the rear view mirror screw and slip the mirror out.

2

Remove each windshield wiper by lifting them up and prying up the base with a large flathead screwdriver. Put the screwdriver between the retaining nut and the arm of each wiper. Move the arm back and forth as you pry to remove the arm. Set the windshield wiper arms aside.

3

Tape over all dashboard vents to protect them from small pieces of glass.

4

Remove the rubber gasket from around the windshield using a razor knife. Try not to touch the windshield glass with the knife. Push the windshield out of the vehicle from inside the Chevy as your assistant catches it from the outside.

5

Clean the frame, the gasket and the dashboard with a clean wet cloth. Leave the replacement gasket in a warm, sunny place for a few hours to make it more flexible.

6

Place a layer of sealant on the gaskets bottom part in the channel. Slip the gasket onto the windshield, taking care to put the side with the slit facing outside of the vehicle.

7

Spread petroleum jelly into the gaskets outer groove and line a heavy nylon cord around the groove beginning with the bottom center part of the windshield and going all the way around. Leave a foot of cord loose and dangling down at each end.

8

Place the windshield into the windshield frame from outside of the Silverado, making sure you leave the loose rope hanging inside the vehicle.

9

Tug slowly on the cord to pull the gasket inside the vehicle. Have your assistant push the gasket to the outside of the windshield frame while you are pulling from the inside. Allow the sealant to cure for 24 hours before driving.

The first automobiles produced did not offer automatic transmission. Using a clutch, drivers had to manually shift gears to operate the vehicle. As cars grew bigger and more people acquired them, an "automatic" transmission became the focus of future vehicles. Transmissions, whether automatic or manual, are made up of many parts, including several gears. Manual transmissions use needle bearings to help mount the different parts. Both transmissions work differently.

Torque Converter

In an automatic transmission, the torque converter takes the place of the clutch in a manual transmission. A torque converters purpose is to increase the turning power that the engine provides. This is completed by the rest of the parts in a transmission.

Pump and Turbine

The engine and transmission never physically touch. It works by hydraulic coupling, in which the transmission fluid is caught by blades of a fan, causing them to spin. The impeller, or pump, and the turbine are these blades. Once one fan starts spinning, the other spins. Powered by the centrifugal force, the transmission fluid moves to the outside of the blades and is sent back to the turbine side through the third fan, the stator. Steady transmission fluid flow causes the engines turning power to multiply.

Planetary Gear Set

In an automatic transmission, there is a planetary gear set. The planetary gear set was designed after the model of our solar system, hence the name. It is made up of different sized gears that are circular in shape and revolve around a "sun gear" which is the central gear. Planetary gear sets differ by type of transmission, but as of 2010, the basic design has not been changed for nearly a century.

Clutch Pack and Transmission Bands

Some vehicles use multiple clutch disc systems, which consist of discs placed between steel plates. The clutch contains one piston and return springs. When the clutch pack is under pressure due to the transmission fluid, the piston locks the assembly together, and when the car is not in gear, the piston disengages. Sometimes a transmission band, a metal ring designed for flexibility, is used instead of the clutch pack. The band sits around the clutch. Engaging the gears requires the band to tighten and loosen to disengage.

Output Shaft

The output shaft connects the transmission to the wheels. The output shaft is attached to the axles in a number of ways, which allows the transmission to turn the shaft and ultimately spin the axles.

Manual Input Shaft

In a manual transmission, the input shaft is mounted in a gearbox at the front. This box is very durable. The front end of the input shaft slides perfectly into the clutch disc. The rear end of the input shaft fits the drive gear at the end of the layshaft.

Layshaft

The layshaft, also known as the cluster gear, is a single unit consisting of the number of gears that the transmission has (three-speed, four-speed, five-speed or six-speed) and often times, a gear for reverse.

Central Shaft

The central shaft runs inside of the layshaft. Needle bearings are used to mount the layshaft. The input shaft creates the power and sends it through the layshaft. From the layshaft, the power is sent to each gear, controlled by the shifter of the vehicle and to the output shaft.

Output Shaft

The output shaft is located at the back end of the gearbox with needle bearings. After the vehicle is shifted, the output shaft then goes into the drive shaft to get the car rolling.

Synchronizer

A ring with teeth on the outside of it sits beside the gear. When the driver chooses a gear, the shift hub does the work and the teeth lock itself into the gear. This combination drives the output shaft.

The Hyundai Elantra GT is a Korean made car that is shipped all over the world. The fog lights that are mounted on the front of the car are 55-watt bulbs. Fog lights are used when visibility is low due to inclement weather. The Hyundai Elantra takes a 9006 style replacement bulb, which is a common and easy to find fog light.

Instructions

1

Raise up the front of your Hyundai using a jack to support it. Disconnect the wiring to the fog lights. The wiring is connected using a harness, so simply depress the locking tab and pull it off.

2

Turn the bulb in a counterclockwise direction until you feel or hear a click. This means that it has unlocked from the housing. Pull the fog light straight out.

3

Push the new bulb into the housing connector and then turn it in a clockwise direction.

4

Reconnect the wiring by clicking the harness back into place. Replace the foglight from the other side in the same way.

5

Lower the car and remove the jack from underneath.

The 289 was a V-8 engine developed and manufactured by Ford Motor Company in the mid-1960s as a performance engine for the Mustang, Falcon and Fairlane. It was also available in the larger Galaxy sedan, but it was primarily seen as a high performance, small-block engine and could produce up to 300 horsepower in certain configurations.

History

The 289 cubic-inch engine was introduced to the Ford lineup in 1963 and was the power plant for the first Mustangs released in 1964. Through 1968, the engine was a great success, winning races all over the world. The first 289 engines were available with two- or four-barrel carburetors with 190 to 210 horsepower. The Falcon and Fairlane models had the 289 engine as an option in 1965 and 1966. The engine was used through 1968 when Ford converted the block to the 302 engine.

Development

Ford also offered a "Hi-Po" option in the 289 with higher compression which raised the horsepower to 271. It was used in the Shelby Mustang and reached 302 horsepower by 1967. The four-barrel carburetor made a big difference in power output in the Mustang.

Time Frame

In 1968, with rising emission standards, the engines horsepower was reduced from 225 to 190. The engine remained essentially unchanged internally from 1964 through 1966.

In 1969, Ford bored out the 289 and converted it to a 302. The engines remained interchangeable as the only difference was the bore and stroke.

Before you reset the codes on your 98 Chevy S-10 Blazer, you need to have the codes read and have the vehicle serviced or repaired by a qualified mechanic. If you dont, the warning and service lights will turn themselves back on. The functions of the Blazer are monitored by an On-Board Diagnostics II computer. When sensors positioned throughout the vehicle detect a problem, they send a trouble code to the computer, which can then be read using an OBD II scanner. This scanner can be purchased from any auto parts store.

Instructions

1

Open the door on the drivers side of the Blazer and find the data/diagnostic link connector, known as DLC, on the lower part of the dashboard. It can be found near the parking brake pedal.

2

Plug the scanner into the DLC.

3

Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the "ACC" position, but dont start the engine.

4

Press the "Erase" key on the scanner to erase the codes and reset the computer. Each scanner is a bit different depending on the manufacturer. So the code may be "Delete" instead or something similar.

5

Wait for the menu on the scanner to indicate the task has been completed.

6

Unplug the scanner and start the engine. Examine the instrument panel to make sure all warning and service lights have turned off.

The Chevrolet Cavalier might have been a pretty decent little car in itself, but a certain malady followed the name wherever it went. Not only was the Cavalier not quite the import-killer that GM had hoped; older buyers had never forgotten that it was essentially a rebadged relative to the worst rebadged travesty in history: the Cadillac Cimarron. The Cobalt that replaced the Cavalier, free of such burdensome history, rose quickly from its 2004 debut to become one of Americas favorite compact cars.

Dash Lights

The 2008 Cobalt, like most modern cars, used a few different dash bulbs. The basic bulbs were single, white LED units from Equus, part number 9903. Part number 9904 was three 9903 bulbs splined into the same harness. The 5-inch Autometer tachometer uses a white, twist-in bulb, part number 3219. The gauges also use a few Autometer-brand, colored LED bulbs: the green LED is part number 3283, the blue is number 3286 and the red LED number 3294.

There are two popular accessories that reduce the grip strength needed to squeeze a Harley clutch lever. Harley-Davidson sells a "reduced effort clutch" kit and White Brothers sells its "Easy Boy Lite Clutch." The Easy Boy Lite Clutch is much easier to install than the Harley kit because there is less to it. While the Harley kit replaces a clutch spring and two ramps in the transmission, the Easy Boy device provides a mechanical advantage by lengthening the leverage on the transmission inner ramp. Many riders get the two products confused. "Easy clutch " usually refers to the White Brothers accessory.

Instructions

1

Loosen the transmission drain plug with a socket wrench and hex socket and drain the transmission fluid into a pan.

2

Access the clutch cable adjuster nut assembly under the black rubber boot in the middle of the clutch cable. Completely loosen the long lock nut and the smaller clutch adjustment nut with open end wrenches.

3

Remove the six bolts that fasten the transmission cover to the transmission with an Allen socket and socket wrench. Remove the cover and gasket.

4

Remove the C-clip that retains the ball/ramp mechanism with snap ring pliers. Lift out the ramp, cable coupling and three ball bearings. Disconnect the coupling from the clutch cable.

5

Unscrew the clutch cable from the transmission cover. Remove the clutch cable O-ring from the transmission cover.

6

Attach the "Easy Boy Lite Clutch" arm to the original equipment inner ramp with the bolt and hex nut included in the kit. Tighten the bolt to 10 to 12 foot-pounds of torque with a hex socket and torque wrench.

7

Slide the spacer included with the kit onto the end of the clutch cable. Re-install the O-ring and screw the end of the clutch cable into the transmission cover.

8

Hook the cable coupler to the clutch cable. Attach the coupler to the clutch arm bolted to the inner ramp. Re-install the inner and outer ramps and the three ball bearings, and replace the C-clip with snap ring pliers.

9

Install a new transmission cover gasket. Replace the transmission cover and tighten the six screws to 96 foot-pounds of torque with an Allen socket and torque wrench.

10

Replace the transmission drain plug and tighten the plug with a socket wrench and hex socket. Refill the transmission with approximately 20 fluid ounces of transmission fluid, or the amount specified in the owners manual for your motorcycle.

11

Tighten the clutch cable adjusting nut with an open end wrench. Leave less than 1/8-inch free play in the clutch lever.

12

Tighten the lock nut with another open end wrench. Replace the clutch adjustment nut assemblys rubber boot.

A timing chain, or belt, is an integral part of an automobiles engine that controls the opening and closing of the valves in the engine. If the chain breaks, serious damage to the engine could result. Proper maintenance is important to prevent this from happening.

Tension

A timing chain can break with either too much or not enough tension. If the chain does not have enough tension, it can develop slack. This can result in the chain "slapping," leading to premature fatigue. A chain with too much tension can also fail, as it is placed under excessive stress. Tension increases friction and heat in the chain, which can result in failure.

Engine Seizure

Engine seizure can be caused by an engine overheating or running out of oil, causing pistons to seize inside the cylinders. If an engine seizes while running at high speeds, the sudden stop can cause a timing chain to break.

Age

The age and number of miles driven on a timing chain are major contributors to failure. The more miles you have on your vehicle, the higher the odds your timing chain will fail, as the chain will become weak and break. Most car manufacturers suggest you have the chain replaced every 60,000 miles.

Nearly each vehicle being produced today comes equipped with automatic power windows. Wires, a switch and motor are the basic components found in auto window systems. However, there are still a variety of different roll-up styles used to raise and lower the windows in automobiles.

Scissor Roll-Up

Some vehicles have power windows with a scissor linkage that has a cranking device which allows windows to be raised and lowered. This type of roll-up system is prone to issues with rust. It can be jammed, preventing the window from going up and down.

Plastic Roll-Up

Either a plastic strip or a plastic chain is used to raise and lower the windows in some power window systems. Cold weather can affect these types of systems as the plastic drive in the window becomes weak and breaks, preventing the window from moving. The plastic strip can be replaced to counter this issue.

Steel Roll-Up

Steel cable is used in some auto window systems to raise and lower the vehicles windows. Although made of steel, cables are known to break in these types of systems as well. When windows fail to roll up in steel cable systems, it is often due to the window being off track within the vehicles door.

Its time to adjust your 1995 Toyota pickup parking brake when it doesnt hold your vehicle in park. This is especially apparent when you are parked facing downhill. On older model trucks such as those built in 1995 this is a periodic adjustment you should make to ensure that the parking brake functions properly. It requires only a few tools that most backyard mechanics have on hand.

Instructions

1

Release and lower the hand brake down as far as it will go.

2

Find the center console cover that houses the parking brake lever. This can be found between the drivers seat and the front passengers seat. Find two screws on either side of the cover and remove them with a screwdriver. Lift off the center console cover.

3

Look for two nuts attached to two rods that are poking out of a metal plate. Tighten the nuts carefully. Check the parking brake to see how many clicks it moves up. Keep tightening the nuts until you have adjusted the parking so that it clicks three times when you pull up on it.

4

Put the center console cover back in place. Put the screws in and tighten them with the screwdriver.

Catalytic converters help dilute toxic chemicals that are pushed out of your car through the exhaust. While these converters last years and thousands of miles, there are ways to burn out your converter. This isnt something you want to do. To avoid burnout, consider the causes of catalytic converter failure, and have your car checked by a mechanic according to the manufacturers instructions.

Instructions

1

Drive your car with a malfunctioning oxygen sensor. This can cause thermal failure, which means that excess raw fuels are making their way, in large quantities, to your catalytic converter.

2

Drive around in a car that has a starter or engine that misfires. This can also cause thermal failure of the catalytic converter.

3

Drive around in a car with old spark plugs that are prone to misfiring. This too can cause burnout.